How to Milk an Almond Stuff an Egg And Armor a Turnip A ...

How to Milk an Almond Stuff an Egg And Armor a Turnip A ... How to Milk an Almond Stuff an Egg And Armor a Turnip A ...

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Russian Cabbage and Greens Domostroi pp. 162-3 Chop cabbage, greens, or a mixture of both very fine, then wash them well. Boil or steam them for a long time. On meat days, put in red meat, ham, or a little pork fat; add cream or egg whites and warm the mixture. During a fast, saturate the greens with a little broth, or add some fat and steam it well. Add some groats, salt, and sour cabbage soup; then heat it. Cook kasha the same way: steam it well with lard, oil, or herring in a broth. Note: the ingredient translated as “sour cabbage soup” turns up elsewhere in the Domostroi in lists of things to brew: “For brewing beer, ale, or sour cabbage soup, take malt or meal and hops. Beer from the first grade makes good sour cabbage soup. You can make vinegar, too, from a good mash.” This suggests that it may really be something like alegar (beer vinegar). We therefore substitute malt vinegar. Version 1 2 ¾ lb green cabbage (1 head) ¾ lb turnip greens 3 c water 1 ½ lb beef or lamb 6 egg whites 1 c dry buckwheat groats (kasha) “sour cabbage soup”: 1 T malt vinegar 2 t salt “sour cabbage soup”: 4 t malt vinegar Version 2 2 lb green cabbage (1 head) ⅝ lb mustard greens 2 ½ c water 1 ¼ lb pork butt roast ½ c cream c dry buckwheat groats (kasha) 1 ½ t salt “sour cabbage soup”: 1 T malt vinegar Chop cabbage and greens very fine. Bring water to a boil, add cabbage and greens and simmer 30-40 minutes covered. Cut meat into bite-sized chunks. Add meat and simmer 12 another 25 minutes (the time probably depends on the cut of meat). Add groats, salt and vinegar, and cook another 15 minutes uncovered on moderate heat, until the liquid is almost absorbed. Stir in egg whites or cream, heat for a minute or two, and remove from heat. These are two possible interpretations of a recipe with lots of alternatives. In particular, it is not clear whether the groats, salt, and “sour cabbage soup” belong only to the fast-day version or to both meat-day and fast-day versions; we have assumed the latter. Chebolace Curye on Inglysch p. 99 (Forme of Cury no. 9) Take oynouns and erbes and hewe hem small, and do þerto gode broth; and aray it as þou didest caboches ["seeth...and do þerto safroun & salt, and force it with powdour douce"]. If þey be in fyssh day, make on the same manere with water and oyle, and if it be not in lent, alye it with yolkes of eyren; and dresse it forth, and cast þerto powdour douce. Note: “chibolles” are green onions, so from the title, onions should be a major ingredient. ½ lb onions 1 c beef broth or greens: 1 c water + 2 T oil ½ oz parsley 10 threads saffron 4 oz mustard greens ½ t salt 4 oz kale 3 egg yolks 4 oz spinach ½ t poudre douce (p. 4) Cut up onions and greens, mix with broth (or, for the fish day version, water and oil) and saffron and salt, bring to boil and cook uncovered 20 minutes on medium, until most of the broth is boiled away. Separate eggs, mix yolks with some of the broth out of the pot, and add to onions and greens. Heat for a couple minutes. Sprinkle on poudre douce and serve.

13 Caboges Two Fifteenth Century p. 6 (Good–and easy) Take fayre caboges, an cutte hem, an pike hem clene and clene washe hem, an parboyle hem in fayre water, an thanne presse hem on a fayre bord; an than choppe hem, and caste hem in a fayre pot with goode fresshe broth, an wyth merybonys, and let it boyle: thanne grate fayre brede and caste ther-to, an caste ther-to Safron an salt; or ellys take gode grwel y-mad of freys flesshe, ydraw thorw a straynour, and caste ther-to. An whan thou seruyst yt inne, knocke owt the marw of the bonys, an ley the marwe ij gobettys or iij in a dysshe, as the semyth best, and serue forth. 1 medium head cabbage 6 threads saffron 4 c beef broth 1 T salt 4 lb marrow bones ~ 2 c breadcrumbs Wash cabbage. Cut it in fourths. Parboil it (i.e. dump into boiling water, leave there a few minutes). Drain. Chop. Squeeze out the water. Put it in a pot with beef broth and marrow bones. Simmer until soft, stirring often enough to keep it from sticking (about 20 minutes). Add saffron, salt, enough bread crumbs to make it very thick. Simmer ten minutes more. Serve. Cress in Lent with Milk of Almonds Menagier p. M14 Take your cress and parboil it with a handful of chopped beet leaves, and fry them in oil, then put to boil in milk of almonds; and when it is not Lent, fry in lard and butter until cooked, then moisten with meat stock; or with cheese, and adjust it carefully, for it will brown. Anyway, if you add parsley, it does not have to be blanched. Lenten version 2 c cress = ⅓ lb ½ c almond milk (p. 7) ½ c beet leaves ¼ c parsley = ½ oz 1 T olive oil pinch salt Fish-day version 2 ¼ c cress = 6 oz 1 ½ oz brick cheese 1 ½ c beet leaves [3 sprigs parsley] 2 T butter [⅛ t salt] Meat-day version 2 ¼ c cress = 6 oz ½ c meat stock 1 ½ c (2 oz) beet leaves [3 sprigs parsley] 2 T lard and/or butter [⅛ t salt] Chop the cress and beet leaves. Dump them into boiling water, let the water come back to a boil, then drain them (about 2 minutes total in water). Heat oil or lard or butter in a skillet, add drained greens (and chopped parsley if you are using parsley). Stir fry for about 3 minutes. For Lenten version, add almond milk, let boil with greens about a minute. For fish-day version, add cheese, chopped up, and stir until cheese is melted into the greens. For meat-day version, add meat stock and cook down 2-3 minutes. Add salt, serve. Notes: Measure greens pressed down in the measuring cup. Use a mild cheese such as brick cheese. Substitute spinach for beet leaves if necessary; the Menagier regards spinach as a kind of beet leaf. We have tried several ratios of cress to beet leaves; all seem to work reasonably well. Lenten Foyles Ordinance of Potage p. 38 (no. 9) Take the same maner of herbes as thu dost to jowtys, and onyons clene paryd. Perboyle hem; presse out the watyr. Do hem yn a potte. Frye reysons in clere oyle that have be fryed yn before, and do therto with a perty of the oyle, and boyle hit up with the mylke of almondys; and put therto sugure & salte. Note: “jowtys” is another recipe for cooked greens; the one in this cookbook calls for “kawlys [cabbage-type vegetables] & percellye and othir good herbes.”

Russi<strong>an</strong> Cabbage <strong>an</strong>d Greens<br />

Domostroi pp. 162-3<br />

Chop cabbage, greens, or a mixture of both<br />

very fine, then wash them well. Boil or steam<br />

them for a long time. On meat days, put in red<br />

meat, ham, or a little pork fat; add cream or egg<br />

whites <strong>an</strong>d warm the mixture. During a fast,<br />

saturate the greens with a little broth, or add<br />

some fat <strong>an</strong>d steam it well. Add some groats, salt,<br />

<strong>an</strong>d sour cabbage soup; then heat it. Cook kasha<br />

the same way: steam it well with lard, oil, or<br />

herring in a broth.<br />

Note: the ingredient tr<strong>an</strong>slated as “sour<br />

cabbage soup” turns up elsewhere in the<br />

Domostroi in lists of things <strong>to</strong> brew: “For<br />

brewing beer, ale, or sour cabbage soup, take<br />

malt or meal <strong>an</strong>d hops. Beer from the first<br />

grade makes good sour cabbage soup. You<br />

c<strong>an</strong> make vinegar, <strong>to</strong>o, from a good mash.”<br />

This suggests that it may really be something<br />

like alegar (beer vinegar). We therefore<br />

substitute malt vinegar.<br />

Version 1<br />

2 ¾ lb green cabbage (1 head)<br />

¾ lb turnip greens<br />

3 c water<br />

1 ½ lb beef or lamb<br />

6 egg whites<br />

1 c dry buckwheat groats (kasha)<br />

“sour cabbage soup”: 1 T malt vinegar<br />

2 t salt<br />

“sour cabbage soup”: 4 t malt vinegar<br />

Version 2<br />

2 lb green cabbage (1 head)<br />

⅝ lb mustard greens<br />

2 ½ c water<br />

1 ¼ lb pork butt roast<br />

½ c cream<br />

c dry buckwheat groats (kasha)<br />

1 ½ t salt<br />

“sour cabbage soup”: 1 T malt vinegar<br />

Chop cabbage <strong>an</strong>d greens very fine. Bring<br />

water <strong>to</strong> a boil, add cabbage <strong>an</strong>d greens <strong>an</strong>d<br />

simmer 30-40 minutes covered. Cut meat in<strong>to</strong><br />

bite-sized chunks. Add meat <strong>an</strong>d simmer<br />

12<br />

<strong>an</strong>other 25 minutes (the time probably<br />

depends on the cut of meat). Add groats, salt<br />

<strong>an</strong>d vinegar, <strong>an</strong>d cook <strong>an</strong>other 15 minutes<br />

uncovered on moderate heat, until the liquid is<br />

almost absorbed. Stir in egg whites or cream,<br />

heat for a minute or two, <strong>an</strong>d remove from<br />

heat.<br />

These are two possible interpretations of a<br />

recipe with lots of alternatives. In particular, it<br />

is not clear whether the groats, salt, <strong>an</strong>d “sour<br />

cabbage soup” belong only <strong>to</strong> the fast-day<br />

version or <strong>to</strong> both meat-day <strong>an</strong>d fast-day<br />

versions; we have assumed the latter.<br />

Chebolace<br />

Curye on Inglysch p. 99<br />

(Forme of Cury no. 9)<br />

Take oynouns <strong>an</strong>d erbes <strong>an</strong>d hewe hem small,<br />

<strong>an</strong>d do þer<strong>to</strong> gode broth; <strong>an</strong>d aray it as þou<br />

didest caboches ["seeth...<strong>an</strong>d do þer<strong>to</strong> safroun &<br />

salt, <strong>an</strong>d force it with powdour douce"]. If þey be<br />

in fyssh day, make on the same m<strong>an</strong>ere with<br />

water <strong>an</strong>d oyle, <strong>an</strong>d if it be not in lent, alye it<br />

with yolkes of eyren; <strong>an</strong>d dresse it forth, <strong>an</strong>d cast<br />

þer<strong>to</strong> powdour douce.<br />

Note: “chibolles” are green onions, so<br />

from the title, onions should be a major<br />

ingredient.<br />

½ lb onions 1 c beef broth or<br />

greens: 1 c water + 2 T oil<br />

½ oz parsley 10 threads saffron<br />

4 oz mustard greens ½ t salt<br />

4 oz kale 3 egg yolks<br />

4 oz spinach ½ t poudre douce (p. 4)<br />

Cut up onions <strong>an</strong>d greens, mix with broth<br />

(or, for the fish day version, water <strong>an</strong>d oil)<br />

<strong>an</strong>d saffron <strong>an</strong>d salt, bring <strong>to</strong> boil <strong>an</strong>d cook<br />

uncovered 20 minutes on medium, until most<br />

of the broth is boiled away. Separate eggs,<br />

mix yolks with some of the broth out of the<br />

pot, <strong>an</strong>d add <strong>to</strong> onions <strong>an</strong>d greens. Heat for a<br />

couple minutes. Sprinkle on poudre douce <strong>an</strong>d<br />

serve.

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