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144<br />

Spices<br />

According <strong>to</strong> the OED, the word “allspice” is first used in 1621 <strong>an</strong>d “v<strong>an</strong>illa” in 1662. Both<br />

are from the New World. They might have been used earlier in Spain or Italy, since South<br />

Americ<strong>an</strong> foods seem <strong>to</strong> have reached those countries earlier th<strong>an</strong> Engl<strong>an</strong>d.<br />

Cocoa<br />

A drink made from cocoa was drunk by the Aztecs; according <strong>to</strong> the Larousse, it was<br />

unsweetened, flavored with v<strong>an</strong>illa, <strong>an</strong>d drunk cold. Cocoa was brought back by the Sp<strong>an</strong>iards in<br />

the sixteenth century; they flavored it “with chillies <strong>an</strong>d other hot spices” <strong>an</strong>d made it “in<strong>to</strong> a<br />

soup-like concoction.” The first recorded use of chocolate in Engl<strong>an</strong>d was in 1650; Wadsworth<br />

published a recipe, apparently tr<strong>an</strong>slated from Sp<strong>an</strong>ish, in 1652.<br />

Black cites chocolate almonds being produced by 1670 <strong>an</strong>d the use of chocolate “<strong>to</strong> flavour<br />

little light cakes called ‘puffs’” <strong>an</strong>d as a dinner dessert, with one recipe dating from 1681.<br />

Clotilde Vesco gives several recipes using chocolate which she dates <strong>to</strong> the fifteenth century (!)<br />

<strong>an</strong>d attributes <strong>to</strong> documents in Florentine archives, if I correctly interpret the passage, but she<br />

gives little information about the originals <strong>an</strong>d I suspect has either misdated or mistr<strong>an</strong>slated<br />

them. Perhaps some reader whose Itali<strong>an</strong> is better th<strong>an</strong> mine c<strong>an</strong> pursue the matter further.<br />

The OED gives the first use of “Chocolate” in English as 1604, in a his<strong>to</strong>ry of the Indies.<br />

References <strong>to</strong> drinking it start in the 1660's. The word “Cocoa” appears much later.<br />

My conclusion is that a drink made from cocoa be<strong>an</strong>s is in period, at least for Sp<strong>an</strong>ish<br />

personae, although the drink would be very different from modern cocoa, but that the use of<br />

chocolate as a food or <strong>an</strong> ingredient in foods is probably out of period.<br />

Turkeys<br />

The first reference <strong>to</strong> turkeys in the OED is in 1555. According <strong>to</strong> the Larousse, Brillat-<br />

Savarin says that turkeys came in<strong>to</strong> use in Europe in the 17th century. There seems <strong>to</strong> have been<br />

some confusion initially with the guinea fowl, which is <strong>an</strong> Old World bird; it is therefore hard <strong>to</strong><br />

be certain which early mentions of turkeys refer <strong>to</strong> what we now call turkeys. It seems likely,<br />

however, that turkeys were being eaten in Europe before 1600.<br />

References<br />

Batchelor, Leon D. <strong>an</strong>d Webber, Herbert John, The Citrus Industry, 1946.<br />

Black, Maggie, “Seventeenth Century Chocolate,” in Petits Propos Culinaires, 14, June 1983.<br />

Coe, Sophie, articles on Aztec <strong>an</strong>d Inca food in Petits Propos Culinaires, 19, 20, 21, <strong>an</strong>d 29.<br />

Crosby, Alfred W. Jr., The Columbi<strong>an</strong> Exch<strong>an</strong>ge: Biological <strong>an</strong>d Cultural Consequences of 1492,<br />

Greenwood Publishing, Westport CT, 1972.<br />

Dewitt, Dave <strong>an</strong>d Gerlach, N<strong>an</strong>cy, The Whole Chile Pepper Book, Little, Brown Co., Bos<strong>to</strong>n<br />

1990.<br />

Fin<strong>an</strong>, John J., Maize in the Great Herbals. Chronica Bot<strong>an</strong>ica Comp<strong>an</strong>y, Waltham, Mass. 1950.<br />

Hat<strong>to</strong>x, Ralph S., Coffee <strong>an</strong>d Coffeehouses, The Origins of a Social Beverage in the Medieval<br />

Near East, University of Washing<strong>to</strong>n Press, Seattle, 1985.<br />

Higgins, B. B., “Origin <strong>an</strong>d Early His<strong>to</strong>ry of the Pe<strong>an</strong>ut” in The Pe<strong>an</strong>ut–The Unpredictable<br />

Legume, A Symposium, The National Fertilizer Association, Washing<strong>to</strong>n, D.C. 1951.<br />

Longone, J<strong>an</strong>, From the Kitchen, The Americ<strong>an</strong> Magazine <strong>an</strong>d His<strong>to</strong>rical Chronicle Vol. 3 No. 2<br />

1987-88. My principal source on <strong>to</strong>ma<strong>to</strong>es.

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