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Europe<strong>an</strong> Dishes<br />

Bread<br />

Brazzatelle of <strong>Milk</strong> <strong>an</strong>d Sugar<br />

Messibugio, Libro Novo 1557<br />

To make fifty brazzatelle of four ounces each<br />

you will take fifteen pounds of best flour, three<br />

ounces of rose water, three pounds of milk, two<br />

pounds of white sugar, 25 eggs, four ounces of<br />

butter, <strong>an</strong>d you will knead these things <strong>to</strong>gether<br />

very well.<br />

Then you will make your brazzatelle<br />

according <strong>to</strong> the method you w<strong>an</strong>t <strong>to</strong> use, <strong>an</strong>d<br />

then you will let rise with careful attention, <strong>an</strong>d<br />

after it has risen you will boil your water, <strong>an</strong>d<br />

then you will place inside the above-mentioned<br />

brazzatelle <strong>to</strong> cook, <strong>an</strong>d when they come <strong>to</strong> the <strong>to</strong>p<br />

you will take out, <strong>an</strong>d then you will put in fresh<br />

water, <strong>an</strong>d when you have removed them from<br />

within you will put them <strong>to</strong> cook in the oven, <strong>an</strong>d<br />

if you w<strong>an</strong>t <strong>to</strong> put inside <strong>an</strong>ise it is a good deed.<br />

[The recipe does not say what shape <strong>to</strong><br />

make them in; I think they are probably sweet<br />

bagels, but they could be pretzels. This is one<br />

sixth of the recipe, using our ounce for the<br />

ounce <strong>an</strong>d assuming a twelve ounce pound in<br />

order <strong>to</strong> make the final weight come out right]<br />

7 c flour 1 T rose water<br />

½ c sugar ¾ c milk<br />

[2 ½ T <strong>an</strong>iseed] ½ lb sourdough (~1 c)<br />

4<br />

3 T butter 3 eggs<br />

Combine flour, sugar, <strong>an</strong>d (optional)<br />

<strong>an</strong>iseeds; cut in the butter. Combine the liquid<br />

ingredients, including the sourdough, mix,<br />

add <strong>to</strong> the dry ingredients <strong>an</strong>d knead until you<br />

have a smooth dough. Cover with a damp<br />

<strong>to</strong>wel, let rise two hours. Divide in<strong>to</strong> 10 equal<br />

portions.<br />

Roll each in<strong>to</strong> a cylinder about 10"-12"<br />

long, join the ends <strong>to</strong> form a <strong>to</strong>rus (bagel).<br />

or<br />

Roll each in<strong>to</strong> a cylinder about 18" -24"<br />

long, make in<strong>to</strong> a pretzel shape.<br />

Leave it <strong>to</strong> rise 1 hr 45 minutes or so at<br />

room temperature.<br />

9<br />

Fill a pot at least three inches deep with<br />

water. Bring the water <strong>to</strong> a boil. Put in as<br />

m<strong>an</strong>y of the brazzatelle as you c<strong>an</strong> m<strong>an</strong>age<br />

without their sticking <strong>to</strong>gether. Boil until they<br />

rise <strong>to</strong> the <strong>to</strong>p, which should start happening<br />

in a minute or so; if they are sticking <strong>to</strong> the<br />

bot<strong>to</strong>m, loosen with a spatula (p<strong>an</strong>cake<br />

turner). When each brazzatella floats <strong>to</strong> the<br />

<strong>to</strong>p take it out, dunk it briefly in a bowl of<br />

water, drain. Bake in a 425° oven until<br />

brown—about 25 minutes.<br />

(I use sourdough but you could also try it<br />

with yeast.)<br />

Ras<strong>to</strong>ns<br />

Two Fifteenth Century p. 52<br />

Take fayre Flowre, <strong>an</strong>d þe whyte of Eyroun,<br />

<strong>an</strong>d þe yolk, a lytel; þ<strong>an</strong> take Warme Berme, <strong>an</strong>d<br />

putte al þes <strong>to</strong>-gederys, <strong>an</strong>d bete hem <strong>to</strong>-gederys<br />

with þin hond tyl it be schort <strong>an</strong>d þikke y-now,<br />

<strong>an</strong>d caste Sugre y-now þer-<strong>to</strong>, <strong>an</strong>d þenne lat reste<br />

a whyle; þ<strong>an</strong> kaste in a fayre place in þe oven,<br />

<strong>an</strong>d late bake y-now; <strong>an</strong>d þen with a knyf cutte<br />

yt round a-boue in m<strong>an</strong>er of a crowne, <strong>an</strong>d kepe<br />

þe crust þat þou kyttyst; <strong>an</strong>d þ<strong>an</strong> pyke al þe<br />

cromys with-ynne <strong>to</strong>-gederys, <strong>an</strong> pike hem smal<br />

with þyn knyf, <strong>an</strong>d saue þe sydys <strong>an</strong>d al þe<br />

cruste hole with-owte; <strong>an</strong>d þ<strong>an</strong> caste þer-in<br />

clarifiyd Bo<strong>to</strong>r, <strong>an</strong>d mille þe cromes <strong>an</strong>d þe bo<strong>to</strong>r<br />

<strong>to</strong>-gederes, <strong>an</strong>d keuere it a-gen with þe cruste, þat<br />

þou kyttest a-way; þ<strong>an</strong> putte it in þe ovyn agen a<br />

lytil tyme; <strong>an</strong>d þ<strong>an</strong> take it out, <strong>an</strong>d serue it forth.<br />

2 ¼ c flour ½ c sugar<br />

2 egg whites 1 egg yolk<br />

½ T dried yeast 1 c clarified butter<br />

(mixed with ½ c water)<br />

After mixing all ingredients except for<br />

butter, let the dough rise 45 minutes <strong>to</strong> <strong>an</strong><br />

hour. Mold the dough on a greased cookie<br />

sheet, let rise a little more. Bake at 350° about<br />

1 hour. Cut off <strong>to</strong>p as described, mix insides<br />

of loaf with melted butter, <strong>an</strong>d replace <strong>to</strong>p.<br />

Second baking is about 5 minutes at the same<br />

temperature.

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