How to Milk an Almond Stuff an Egg And Armor a Turnip A ...

How to Milk an Almond Stuff an Egg And Armor a Turnip A ... How to Milk an Almond Stuff an Egg And Armor a Turnip A ...

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Two reference books that we have found helpful are the Larousse Gastronomique and the Oxford English Dictionary. The former is a dictionary of cooking, available in both English and French editions. The latter, which is also useful for many other sorts of SCA research, is the standard English scholar's dictionary; it contains a much more extensive range of obsolete words and meanings than an ordinary dictionary. Also, Two Fifteenth Century Cookbooks and Curye on Inglysch contain glossaries. An approach to developing recipes that we have found both productive and entertaining is to hold cooking workshops. We select recipes that we would like to try or retry and invite anyone interested to come help us cook them. The workshop starts in the afternoon. As each person arrives, he chooses a recipe to do. We suggest that people who have not cooked from period recipes before do new recipes so that they can have the experience of working directly from an untouched original. The details of how the recipe is being prepared–quantities, temperatures, times and techniques–are written down as the dish is prepared. The afternoon and early evening are spent cooking, eating, and discussing how to modify the recipes next time; we offer anyone who wishes copies of the recipes to experiment with further at home. Many of the recipes in this book were developed at such sessions. We have never yet had to send out for pizza. 136 Tourney and War Food Suppose you are going to a tournament and want to bring period food to eat and share during the day. Suppose you are going to a camping event, such as the Pennsic war, and expect to be encamped for something between a weekend and two weeks. What period foods are likely to prove useful? For both one day events and wars, we have accumulated a small collection of period foods and drinks that can be made in advance and kept without refrigeration for an almost unlimited period of time. They include Hulwa (p. 121), Hais (p. 117), Prince-Bisket (p. 46), Gingerbrede (p. 46), Excellent Cake (p. 47; this is actually slightly out of period), Khushkananaj (p. 116), Sekanjabin (p. 125) and Syrup of Pomegranate (p. 125). The last two are drinks that are prepared as syrups and diluted (with cold water for sekanjabin and hot water for granatus) just before being served. The syrups are sufficiently concentrated so that, like honey or molasses, they keep indefinitely. For a one day event we will often also bring a cold meat or cheese pie; Spinach Tart (p. 41) is one of our favorites. In addition, one can bring bread, cheese, sausage, nuts, dried fruit–all things which were eaten in period and can keep for a reasonable length of time. A camping event, especially one more than two days long, raises a new set of challenges and opportunities–period cooking with period equipment. One of the associated problems is how to keep perishable ingredients long enough so that you can bring them at the beginning of the event and use them at the end. One could keep things in a cooler with lots of ice–especially at Pennsic, where ice is available to be bought. This is, however, a considerable nuisance–and besides, it is unlikely that either coolers or ice were available at a real medieval war. Better solutions are to choose dishes that do not require perishable ingredients or to find period ways of preserving such ingredients. One of our future projects along these lines is to work out some good recipes for salted or dried fish, which was an important food in the Middle Ages and one that keeps indefinitely. Our most successful preserving technique so far is to pickle meat or fowl using Lord's Salt (p. 74). The pickled meat is strongly flavored with vinegar and spices, so we pick a recipe to use it in that contains vinegar or verjuice in its list of ingredients. We wash most of the pickling solution off the meat and make up the recipe omitting the sour ingredient (and any spices that are already in the pickled meat). Two recipes that work well with pickled chicken are Veal, Kid, or Hen in Bokenade (p. 27) and Conyng, Hen, or Mallard (p. 29).

137 There is an Indian bread (p. 126) and two Islamic pastries, Murakkaba (p. 121) and Musammana (p. 121) which are made in a frying pan rather than an oven, and are therefore easy to make on site. There are also recipes for fritters and funnel cakes (pp 55-58), many of which are suitable for camping events. There are many other possibilities for non-perishable period dishes. They include recipes using lentils and other dried beans (pp. 17-18, 99-100). They also include one very familiar dish– macaroni and cheese, known in the Middle Ages as Macrows (p. 70) or Losyns (p. 68). If you have fresh meat available, there are many possible recipes; Meat Roasted Over Coals (p. 110) is good and very straightforward. If you roast a large amount of meat for one evening’s dinner, A Roast of Meat (p. 98) is a good way of using up leftover roast meat for the next meal. Creative Medieval Cooking It is sometimes claimed that the dishes served at an SCA feast are medieval even though they do not come from any period cookbook. The idea is that the cook is producing original creations in a medieval style. After all, there is no reason to assume that all, or even very many, medieval cooks used cookbooks. In principle, this is a legitimate argument–if it is made by an experienced medieval cook. Since we do not have the option of living in the Middle Ages, the only practical way to become an experienced medieval cook is by cooking from medieval cookbooks. In my experience, however, the people who make this argument have rarely done much, if any, cooking from period sources; their “original medieval creations” are usually either modern ethnic dishes or modified versions of standard modern recipes. Even if “creative medieval cookery” is done by taking period recipes and modifying them, it is a risky business. Unless the cook has extensive experience cooking medieval recipes in their original form, he is likely to modify them in the direction of modern tastes–in order to make them fit better his ideas of what they should be like. But one of the attractions of medieval cooking is that it lets us discover things we do not expect–combinations of spices, or ways of preparing dishes, that seem strange to modern tastes yet turn out to be surprisingly good. I would therefore advise anyone interested in medieval cooking to try to keep as closely as possible to the original recipe. There may, of course, be practical difficulties that prevent you from following the recipe exactly–ingredients you cannot obtain, cooking methods you cannot use (“hang it in a chimney where a fire is kept all the year”), or the like. But I do not think it is ever desirable, when first cooking a dish, to change it merely because you suspect that if you follow the recipe you will not like the result. The people who wrote the recipes down knew a great deal more about period cookery than we do; it is our job to be their students, not their teachers. Period, Ethnic, and Traditional There is some tendency for people in the Society to assume that all ethnic food is period. Thus, for example, “oriental” feasts often consist of dishes that one would find in a modern Chinese or Japanese restaurant and traditional or “peasant” cooking is sometimes included in feasts, even when there is no evidence that the particular dishes were made in period. The assumption is a dangerous one; America is not the only place where things change over time. The fact that a dish was made by your grandmother, or even that she says she got it from her grandmother, may be evidence that the dish is a hundred years old; it is not evidence that it dates from before 1600. While traditional societies may appear very old-fashioned to us, there is ample evidence that such societies in general, and their cooking in particular, change over time. Potatoes

137<br />

There is <strong>an</strong> Indi<strong>an</strong> bread (p. 126) <strong>an</strong>d two Islamic pastries, Murakkaba (p. 121) <strong>an</strong>d<br />

Musamm<strong>an</strong>a (p. 121) which are made in a frying p<strong>an</strong> rather th<strong>an</strong> <strong>an</strong> oven, <strong>an</strong>d are therefore easy<br />

<strong>to</strong> make on site. There are also recipes for fritters <strong>an</strong>d funnel cakes (pp 55-58), m<strong>an</strong>y of which are<br />

suitable for camping events.<br />

There are m<strong>an</strong>y other possibilities for non-perishable period dishes. They include recipes<br />

using lentils <strong>an</strong>d other dried be<strong>an</strong>s (pp. 17-18, 99-100). They also include one very familiar dish–<br />

macaroni <strong>an</strong>d cheese, known in the Middle Ages as Macrows (p. 70) or Losyns (p. 68).<br />

If you have fresh meat available, there are m<strong>an</strong>y possible recipes; Meat Roasted Over Coals<br />

(p. 110) is good <strong>an</strong>d very straightforward. If you roast a large amount of meat for one evening’s<br />

dinner, A Roast of Meat (p. 98) is a good way of using up lef<strong>to</strong>ver roast meat for the next meal.<br />

Creative Medieval Cooking<br />

It is sometimes claimed that the dishes served at <strong>an</strong> SCA feast are medieval even though they<br />

do not come from <strong>an</strong>y period cookbook. The idea is that the cook is producing original creations<br />

in a medieval style. After all, there is no reason <strong>to</strong> assume that all, or even very m<strong>an</strong>y, medieval<br />

cooks used cookbooks.<br />

In principle, this is a legitimate argument–if it is made by <strong>an</strong> experienced medieval cook.<br />

Since we do not have the option of living in the Middle Ages, the only practical way <strong>to</strong> become<br />

<strong>an</strong> experienced medieval cook is by cooking from medieval cookbooks. In my experience,<br />

however, the people who make this argument have rarely done much, if <strong>an</strong>y, cooking from period<br />

sources; their “original medieval creations” are usually either modern ethnic dishes or modified<br />

versions of st<strong>an</strong>dard modern recipes.<br />

Even if “creative medieval cookery” is done by taking period recipes <strong>an</strong>d modifying them, it is<br />

a risky business. Unless the cook has extensive experience cooking medieval recipes in their<br />

original form, he is likely <strong>to</strong> modify them in the direction of modern tastes–in order <strong>to</strong> make them<br />

fit better his ideas of what they should be like. But one of the attractions of medieval cooking is<br />

that it lets us discover things we do not expect–combinations of spices, or ways of preparing<br />

dishes, that seem str<strong>an</strong>ge <strong>to</strong> modern tastes yet turn out <strong>to</strong> be surprisingly good.<br />

I would therefore advise <strong>an</strong>yone interested in medieval cooking <strong>to</strong> try <strong>to</strong> keep as closely as<br />

possible <strong>to</strong> the original recipe. There may, of course, be practical difficulties that prevent you<br />

from following the recipe exactly–ingredients you c<strong>an</strong>not obtain, cooking methods you c<strong>an</strong>not<br />

use (“h<strong>an</strong>g it in a chimney where a fire is kept all the year”), or the like. But I do not think it is<br />

ever desirable, when first cooking a dish, <strong>to</strong> ch<strong>an</strong>ge it merely because you suspect that if you<br />

follow the recipe you will not like the result. The people who wrote the recipes down knew a<br />

great deal more about period cookery th<strong>an</strong> we do; it is our job <strong>to</strong> be their students, not their<br />

teachers.<br />

Period, Ethnic, <strong>an</strong>d Traditional<br />

There is some tendency for people in the Society <strong>to</strong> assume that all ethnic food is period.<br />

Thus, for example, “oriental” feasts often consist of dishes that one would find in a modern<br />

Chinese or Jap<strong>an</strong>ese restaur<strong>an</strong>t <strong>an</strong>d traditional or “peas<strong>an</strong>t” cooking is sometimes included in<br />

feasts, even when there is no evidence that the particular dishes were made in period.<br />

The assumption is a d<strong>an</strong>gerous one; America is not the only place where things ch<strong>an</strong>ge over<br />

time. The fact that a dish was made by your gr<strong>an</strong>dmother, or even that she says she got it from her<br />

gr<strong>an</strong>dmother, may be evidence that the dish is a hundred years old; it is not evidence that it dates<br />

from before 1600. While traditional societies may appear very old-fashioned <strong>to</strong> us, there is ample<br />

evidence that such societies in general, <strong>an</strong>d their cooking in particular, ch<strong>an</strong>ge over time. Pota<strong>to</strong>es

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