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esidue produces almost no more milk. Throw<br />

out the residue.This should give you about 1 c<br />

of almond milk.<br />

To Make Onion Juice<br />

Peel your onions, cut them in pieces (8<br />

pieces for a very large onion), put them in a<br />

food processor <strong>an</strong>d reduce them <strong>to</strong> mush. Put<br />

the mush through a cle<strong>an</strong>, wet dish <strong>to</strong>wel (the<br />

<strong>to</strong>wel will end up a bit stained). To do that,<br />

you pour the onion juice <strong>an</strong>d mush in<strong>to</strong> the<br />

middle of the <strong>to</strong>wel, holding up the edges.<br />

When the really liquid part has gone through<br />

in<strong>to</strong> the bowl underneath, you pull the edges<br />

<strong>to</strong>gether so that what is left is a ball of onion<br />

mush wrapped in a dish <strong>to</strong>wel. Squeeze until<br />

the juice is out. You should get just over a cup<br />

of juice per pound of onion.<br />

To Make Cil<strong>an</strong>tro Juice<br />

Take cil<strong>an</strong>tro (green cori<strong>an</strong>der, aka chinese<br />

parsley, as distinguished from cori<strong>an</strong>der,<br />

which is the seed). Grind it in <strong>an</strong> electric spice<br />

grinder or mash it in a mortar <strong>an</strong>d pestle with<br />

2 T water per ounce of cori<strong>an</strong>der; use a food<br />

processor if you are making a lot. Squeeze it<br />

through a cloth <strong>to</strong> give about 2 T of cil<strong>an</strong>tro<br />

juice from each ounce of cil<strong>an</strong>tro.<br />

<strong>And</strong>alusi<strong>an</strong> Meatballs<br />

Recipes from the Islamic cookbooks often<br />

call for meatballs or cabobs without telling<br />

you how <strong>to</strong> make them. Here are comments<br />

on meatballs from two recipes in the<br />

<strong>an</strong>onymous <strong>And</strong>alusi<strong>an</strong> cookbook, followed<br />

by one possible interpretation.<br />

Take red, tender meat, free of tendons, <strong>an</strong>d<br />

pound it as in what preceded about meatballs.<br />

Put the pounded meat on a platter <strong>an</strong>d add a bit<br />

of the juice of a pounded onion, some oil, murri<br />

naqî', pepper, cori<strong>an</strong>der, cumin, <strong>an</strong>d saffron. Add<br />

enough egg <strong>to</strong> envelope the mixture, <strong>an</strong>d knead<br />

until it is mixed, <strong>an</strong>d make large meatballs like<br />

pieces of meat, then set it aside.<br />

8<br />

Pound well meat from the two legs, the<br />

shoulder <strong>an</strong>d the like. Throw in some sifted flour,<br />

a head of garlic peeled <strong>an</strong>d pounded with salt,<br />

pepper, cumin, cori<strong>an</strong>der <strong>an</strong>d caraway, <strong>an</strong>d let<br />

the pepper predominate, <strong>an</strong>d some good murri,<br />

<strong>an</strong>d beat all this well with five eggs or as m<strong>an</strong>y as<br />

it will bear. Then take coarse fat, as much of this<br />

as of the pounded meat or more, <strong>an</strong>d cut up fine<br />

<strong>an</strong>d mix with the pounded meat. <strong>And</strong> if rue is cut<br />

in<strong>to</strong> it, good. Then make it in<strong>to</strong> meatballs <strong>an</strong>d fry<br />

it; ...<br />

1 lb ground meat ¼ t cori<strong>an</strong>der<br />

6 T flour 1 T murri (p. 5)<br />

1 clove garlic 2 eggs<br />

½ t salt 4 T olive oil or meat fat<br />

½ t pepper 1 t rue<br />

¼ t cumin<br />

Chop the garlic. Combine all of the<br />

ingredients <strong>an</strong>d form in<strong>to</strong> balls about 1" <strong>to</strong> 1<br />

½" across; makes roughly 40 of them. Fry<br />

until brown on both sides in <strong>an</strong>other 4 T of oil<br />

over medium heat, about 5 <strong>to</strong> 10 minutes.<br />

Note that this is only one of m<strong>an</strong>y possible<br />

variations; feel free <strong>to</strong> try your own.<br />

Final Advice<br />

The authors of the original recipes knew<br />

more about their cuisine th<strong>an</strong> we ever will. If<br />

our worked out version appears <strong>to</strong> disagree<br />

with the original, that might me<strong>an</strong> that we<br />

know something about interpreting the<br />

original—for inst<strong>an</strong>ce that <strong>an</strong> Islamic pound<br />

has twelve ounces, not sixteen—that you do<br />

not. But it is more likely that we either have<br />

made a mistake or were for some reason<br />

unable <strong>to</strong> follow the original. If in doubt, trust<br />

the original over our version.

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