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How to Milk an Almond Stuff an Egg And Armor a Turnip A ...

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ghee along with 3 T of honey. Cook for 5-10<br />

minutes, spooning honey over the patty <strong>an</strong>d<br />

flipping the patty at least once. Pour 1 T of the<br />

nut mixture in<strong>to</strong> it. Remove on<strong>to</strong> a plate,<br />

pouring the honey <strong>an</strong>d butter mixture over<br />

<strong>to</strong>p, add a pinch of pepper. This should work<br />

fine with larger batches but we haven’t tried<br />

that yet.<br />

Hulwa<br />

Ibn al-Mabrad p.19<br />

Its varieties are m<strong>an</strong>y. Among them are the<br />

sweets made of natif. You put dibs [fruit syrup],<br />

honey, sugar or rubb [thick fruit syrup] in the<br />

pot, then you put it on a gentle fire <strong>an</strong>d stir until<br />

it takes consistency. Then you beat eggwhite <strong>an</strong>d<br />

put it with it <strong>an</strong>d stir until it thickens <strong>an</strong>d<br />

becomes natif. After that, if you w<strong>an</strong>t almond<br />

c<strong>an</strong>dy you put in <strong>to</strong>asted almonds <strong>an</strong>d 'allaftahu;<br />

that is, you bind them. walnuts, pistachios,<br />

hazelnuts, <strong>to</strong>asted chickpeas, <strong>to</strong>asted sesame, flour.<br />

[apparently alternative versions]. You beat in the<br />

natif until it thickens. For duhniyyah you put in<br />

flour <strong>to</strong>asted with fat. As for ... [other versions.]<br />

Sugar version Honey version<br />

¼ c water 1 c honey<br />

1 ¼ c sugar 1 egg white<br />

1 egg white 2 ½-3 c or more nuts<br />

1 ½ - 2 c nuts [ground nuts<br />

or sesame seeds]<br />

This makes 25-40 hulwa.<br />

Sugar version: Bring the water <strong>to</strong> a boil,<br />

stir in the sugar, continuing <strong>to</strong> heat. When it is<br />

dissolved <strong>an</strong>d reasonably clear, turn it down<br />

<strong>to</strong> a simmer <strong>an</strong>d put the <strong>to</strong>p on the pot for two<br />

or three minutes (this is <strong>to</strong> let the steam wash<br />

down <strong>an</strong>y sugar on the sides of the pot). Take<br />

the <strong>to</strong>p off, boil gently until the temperature<br />

reaches the hard ball stage (250° -260° F).<br />

Beat the egg white until it is just stiff enough<br />

<strong>to</strong> hold its shape. Pour the sugar syrup in<strong>to</strong> the<br />

egg white, beating continuously. You now<br />

have a thick white mixture; this is the natif.<br />

Mix it with chopped nuts (we have used<br />

almonds <strong>an</strong>d walnuts) or <strong>to</strong>asted sesame<br />

seeds, or some mixture thereof. Squeeze the<br />

mixture in<strong>to</strong> balls <strong>an</strong>d set them aside <strong>to</strong> cool.<br />

As the natif cools it gets harder <strong>an</strong>d less<br />

sticky, so you have <strong>to</strong> work quickly; the hotter<br />

122<br />

you get the syrup before combining it with the<br />

egg white (<strong>an</strong>d hence the less water ended up<br />

in it), the faster this happens <strong>an</strong>d the dryer the<br />

hulwa ends up. If you get past 260°, the syrup<br />

may crystallize on you as or before you pour<br />

it; if so, give up <strong>an</strong>d start over.<br />

Honey version: Simmer the honey gently<br />

until it reaches a temperature of 280° -290° F.<br />

From that point on, the recipe is the same as<br />

for sugar, using the boiled honey instead of<br />

the sugar syrup. Note that honey requires a<br />

higher temperature th<strong>an</strong> sugar <strong>to</strong> get the same<br />

effect. Also note that natif made from honey<br />

will be stickier th<strong>an</strong> natif made from sugar<br />

(maybe you c<strong>an</strong> solve this by getting the<br />

honey up <strong>to</strong> 310° without burning it; I<br />

couldn't). So use a higher ratio of nuts <strong>to</strong> natif<br />

<strong>an</strong>d have the nuts chopped more finely; this<br />

helps reduce the stickiness. You may w<strong>an</strong>t <strong>to</strong><br />

roll the honey hulwa in sesame seeds or<br />

ground nuts, also <strong>to</strong> reduce stickiness.<br />

Dibs version (still experimental). Stir the<br />

dibs while simmering at medium heat about ½<br />

hour+, until it gets <strong>to</strong> about 250°. If you do<br />

not stir, it may separate out. By 250° there is<br />

some problem with scorching.<br />

Note: Dibs is date syrup, available from<br />

some Middle Eastern grocery s<strong>to</strong>res.<br />

To <strong>to</strong>ast sesame seeds, put them in a heavy<br />

iron pot over a medium <strong>to</strong> high flame. When<br />

the ones on the bot<strong>to</strong>m begin <strong>to</strong> t<strong>an</strong>, start<br />

stirring. When they are all t<strong>an</strong> <strong>to</strong> brown, take<br />

them off the heat or they will burn.<br />

Makshufa<br />

al-Baghdadi p. 211<br />

Take equal parts of sugar, almonds (or<br />

pistachios), honey, <strong>an</strong>d sesame-oil. Grind the<br />

sugar <strong>an</strong>d almonds, <strong>an</strong>d mix <strong>to</strong>gether. Add<br />

saffron <strong>to</strong> color, mixed with rose-water. Put the<br />

sesame oil in<strong>to</strong> a basin <strong>an</strong>d boil until fragr<strong>an</strong>t:<br />

then drop in the honey, <strong>an</strong>d stir until the scum<br />

appears. Add the sugar <strong>an</strong>d almonds, stirring all<br />

the time over a slow fire until almost set: then<br />

remove.<br />

1 c+ almonds 3 T rosewater<br />

¾ c sugar ¾ c sesame oil<br />

10 threads saffron ½ c+ honey

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