How to Milk an Almond Stuff an Egg And Armor a Turnip A ...

How to Milk an Almond Stuff an Egg And Armor a Turnip A ... How to Milk an Almond Stuff an Egg And Armor a Turnip A ...

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Note: 1 ratl=12 uqiya=1 pint; 1 Makkūk=7.5-18.8 liters dry measure. Nigella, aka kalonji or black onion seed, can be found in Indian grocery stores. The following quantities are for of the above recipe. 3 T honey ⅔ t nigela 1 T wheat starch ¼ oz carob = 1 T ⅓ t celery seed 1 ½ oz quince 1 ½ oz bread ¼ oz walnut ½ c salt in 3 T honey 1 pint water ⅔ t fennel lemon (¼ of one) ¼ t saffron ⅔ t anise Cook the honey in a small frying pan on medium heat, bringing it to a boil then turning off the heat and repeating several times; it will taste scorched. The bread is sliced white bread, toasted in a toaster to be somewhat blackened, then mashed in a mortar. Toast the anise, fennel and nigela in a frying pan or roast under a broiler, then grind in a mortar with celery seed and walnuts. The quince is quartered and cored. Boil all but the lemon together for about 2 hours, then put it in a potato ricer, squeeze out the liquid and add lemon juice to it; this is the murri. The recipe generates about 1 ¼ to 1 ½ c of liquid. You can then add another ½ c of water to the residue, simmer for half an hour to an hour and squeeze out that liquid for the second infusion, which yields about ⅓ c. A third infusion using ⅓ c more water yields another ¼ c or so. Units Exact quantities are sometimes given in Islamic recipes; the units are: 1 ratl = 1 lb = 1 pint; 12 uqiya = 1 ratl; 10 dirham = 1 uqiya; 6 danaq = 1 dirham (information from Arberry’s introduction to his translation of al- Bagdadi). So 1 dirham= ~.13 oz = ~1 ½ t of ground spice Units used in the Ain I Akbari are: 1 ser = 2 lb 2 oz, 1 dam = oz, 1 misqal = oz. Units used in A Soup for the Qan: 1 chien = .011 oz, 1 liang = .11 oz, 1 chin = 16 liang = 1.8 oz. 6 10 ho = 1 sheng = 31.5 cubic inches = ~2 c; 1 tou = 10 shang = ~ 1 ¼ gallons. All of these are modern values for the units; the book notes that the sheng was slightly less in the 14 th century. Other Minor Points We usually interpret “meat” in Islamic recipes as lamb, either leg or chops. Other possibilities are mutton, veal, goat, beef and kid. Pork is forbidden by Islamic law. The Arberry translation of al-Baghdadi uses “hour” for an Arabic term which, according to Charles Perry, actually means an indefinite length of time. We therefore have not tried to stick literally to the timing given in al-Baghdadi. A common technique in medieval European recipes is to pass ingredients through a strainer. We generally follow the recipe the first time but thereafter, and especially when preparing large quantities, substitute a food processor. An alternative is to use a potato ricer—a sort of plunger/strainer combination. Saffron is a common medieval ingredient. We have found that it works better if you first extract the color and flavor by crushing the saffron thoroughly into a small quantity of water, then adding the water and saffron to your dish. Cariadoc is not fond of saffron; if you are, you may want to increase our quantities. The few (Islamic) recipes which specify saffron by weight use considerably more than they would if we had written them. So far as we can tell, the fava or broad bean is the only European/Mediterranean variety of bean commonly available other than lentils and chickpeas. It is therefore what we use in recipes that call for beans. In interpreting recipes that contain a specific number of eggs, we usually assume that the average medieval egg is somewhat smaller than a modern large egg; we have no evidence for whether this is correct other than how the recipes come out. When we specify a number of eggs in the worked out version of a recipe, they are large eggs. Our recipes occasionally show an

ingredient in brackets. This means either that it is described as optional in the original or that it is something, usually salt, that is not mentioned in the original but that we think should have been—one of our sources says that he doesn’t mention salt because everyone knows to put it in—or, occasionally, that it is something in the recipe that we were unable to get and so omitted. Which it is should be clear from context. In our recipes, spices such as cinnamon or cloves are ground unless stated not to be. Some of the early English recipes use the thorn (þ), a letter that is no longer used in English. It is pronounced “th.” Pie Crust Recipes Our only period English recipe for pie crust is late period (p. 45: “To make short paest for tarte,” from A Proper Newe Book); it consists only of a list of ingredients, and we believe is intended as a fancy rather than plain pie crust. There is also a German recipe in Sabina Welserin. What we normally use is a simple modern recipe that contains only period ingredients and is made partly with whole wheat flour, on the guess that most period flour was coarser than ours and that the finest white flour would probably not have gone into pie crust. It is: ¾ c white flour ⅓ c salted butter ¼ c whole wheat flour 2 ½ T water Mix flours, cut butter finely into flour with two knives or a food processor, then mix the water into the flour-butter mixture without crushing the flour and butter together. Makes a single 9" crust. An alternative, for recipes that specify a crust but do not say what sort, is to simply knead flour and water with a little salt. The result is much tougher than a pastry crust, which has both advantages and disadvantages. The quantities for one 9" pie are: 3 c flour about 1 ¼ c water ¼ t salt 7 Sourdough A number of our recipes use sourdough as leavening. There are recipes for making your initial batch of sourdough using wild yeast from the air, but we have never done it; we always started with a batch of sourdough from someone else. You can keep sourdough in the refrigerator for quite a long time, but before using it you will want to spend several days getting the culture back to strength. Start by combining ¼ c sourdough with ½ c water and ½ c flour; leave it covered at room temperature for 24 hours. Take ¼ c of that, combine with ½ c water and ½ c flour, leave it covered for 12 hours. Repeat, again for 12 hours. Finally take ½ c of your now pretty lively sourdough, combine with 1 c water and 1 c flour, leave it for 6 hours, use it in your recipe. If you are going to require more than that, scale up the final stage accordingly. Put whatever sourdough is left into jars to give to all your friends so that they can use sourdough in their cooking too. Or find a good sourdough pancake recipe and use the rest for that. And remember to put some sourdough back into the refrigerator. Almond Milk Almond milk is an ingredient common in Medieval European recipes, particularly in Lenten dishes (milk, eggs, and meat broth all being forbidden in Lent). The recipe below is a basic one. For some recipes we make a thicker almond milk with more almonds relative to the amount of water; other recipes say “draw up a good milk of almonds with broth (or wine),” in which case the broth or wine is substituted for the water in making the almond milk. To make almond milk: Take ¼ c (1 ¾ oz) almonds. Put them in a food processor, run it briefly. Add a little water, run it longer. Continue adding water and running the processor until you have a milky liquid. Strain through several layers of cheesecloth. Put the residue back in the food processor, add a little more water, and repeat. Continue until the

Note: 1 ratl=12 uqiya=1 pint;<br />

1 Makkūk=7.5-18.8 liters dry measure.<br />

Nigella, aka kalonji or black onion seed, c<strong>an</strong><br />

be found in Indi<strong>an</strong> grocery s<strong>to</strong>res. The<br />

following qu<strong>an</strong>tities are for of the above<br />

recipe.<br />

3 T honey ⅔ t nigela<br />

1 T wheat starch ¼ oz carob = 1 T<br />

⅓ t celery seed 1 ½ oz quince<br />

1 ½ oz bread ¼ oz walnut<br />

½ c salt in 3 T honey 1 pint water<br />

⅔ t fennel lemon (¼ of one)<br />

¼ t saffron ⅔ t <strong>an</strong>ise<br />

Cook the honey in a small frying p<strong>an</strong> on<br />

medium heat, bringing it <strong>to</strong> a boil then turning<br />

off the heat <strong>an</strong>d repeating several times; it will<br />

taste scorched. The bread is sliced white<br />

bread, <strong>to</strong>asted in a <strong>to</strong>aster <strong>to</strong> be somewhat<br />

blackened, then mashed in a mortar. Toast the<br />

<strong>an</strong>ise, fennel <strong>an</strong>d nigela in a frying p<strong>an</strong> or<br />

roast under a broiler, then grind in a mortar<br />

with celery seed <strong>an</strong>d walnuts. The quince is<br />

quartered <strong>an</strong>d cored. Boil all but the lemon<br />

<strong>to</strong>gether for about 2 hours, then put it in a<br />

pota<strong>to</strong> ricer, squeeze out the liquid <strong>an</strong>d add<br />

lemon juice <strong>to</strong> it; this is the murri. The recipe<br />

generates about 1 ¼ <strong>to</strong> 1 ½ c of liquid. You<br />

c<strong>an</strong> then add <strong>an</strong>other ½ c of water <strong>to</strong> the<br />

residue, simmer for half <strong>an</strong> hour <strong>to</strong> <strong>an</strong> hour<br />

<strong>an</strong>d squeeze out that liquid for the second<br />

infusion, which yields about ⅓ c. A third<br />

infusion using ⅓ c more water yields <strong>an</strong>other<br />

¼ c or so.<br />

Units<br />

Exact qu<strong>an</strong>tities are sometimes given in<br />

Islamic recipes; the units are: 1 ratl = 1 lb = 1<br />

pint; 12 uqiya = 1 ratl; 10 dirham = 1 uqiya; 6<br />

d<strong>an</strong>aq = 1 dirham (information from<br />

Arberry’s introduction <strong>to</strong> his tr<strong>an</strong>slation of al-<br />

Bagdadi). So 1 dirham= ~.13 oz = ~1 ½ t of<br />

ground spice<br />

Units used in the Ain I Akbari are: 1 ser =<br />

2 lb 2 oz, 1 dam = oz, 1 misqal = oz.<br />

Units used in A Soup for the Q<strong>an</strong>:<br />

1 chien = .011 oz, 1 li<strong>an</strong>g = .11 oz, 1 chin =<br />

16 li<strong>an</strong>g = 1.8 oz.<br />

6<br />

10 ho = 1 sheng = 31.5 cubic inches = ~2 c;<br />

1 <strong>to</strong>u = 10 sh<strong>an</strong>g = ~ 1 ¼ gallons.<br />

All of these are modern values for the<br />

units; the book notes that the sheng was<br />

slightly less in the 14 th century.<br />

Other Minor Points<br />

We usually interpret “meat” in Islamic<br />

recipes as lamb, either leg or chops. Other<br />

possibilities are mut<strong>to</strong>n, veal, goat, beef <strong>an</strong>d<br />

kid. Pork is forbidden by Islamic law.<br />

The Arberry tr<strong>an</strong>slation of al-Baghdadi<br />

uses “hour” for <strong>an</strong> Arabic term which,<br />

according <strong>to</strong> Charles Perry, actually me<strong>an</strong>s <strong>an</strong><br />

indefinite length of time. We therefore have<br />

not tried <strong>to</strong> stick literally <strong>to</strong> the timing given<br />

in al-Baghdadi.<br />

A common technique in medieval<br />

Europe<strong>an</strong> recipes is <strong>to</strong> pass ingredients<br />

through a strainer. We generally follow the<br />

recipe the first time but thereafter, <strong>an</strong>d<br />

especially when preparing large qu<strong>an</strong>tities,<br />

substitute a food processor. An alternative is<br />

<strong>to</strong> use a pota<strong>to</strong> ricer—a sort of<br />

plunger/strainer combination.<br />

Saffron is a common medieval ingredient.<br />

We have found that it works better if you first<br />

extract the color <strong>an</strong>d flavor by crushing the<br />

saffron thoroughly in<strong>to</strong> a small qu<strong>an</strong>tity of<br />

water, then adding the water <strong>an</strong>d saffron <strong>to</strong><br />

your dish. Cariadoc is not fond of saffron; if<br />

you are, you may w<strong>an</strong>t <strong>to</strong> increase our<br />

qu<strong>an</strong>tities. The few (Islamic) recipes which<br />

specify saffron by weight use considerably<br />

more th<strong>an</strong> they would if we had written them.<br />

So far as we c<strong>an</strong> tell, the fava or broad<br />

be<strong>an</strong> is the only Europe<strong>an</strong>/Mediterr<strong>an</strong>e<strong>an</strong><br />

variety of be<strong>an</strong> commonly available other<br />

th<strong>an</strong> lentils <strong>an</strong>d chickpeas. It is therefore what<br />

we use in recipes that call for be<strong>an</strong>s.<br />

In interpreting recipes that contain a<br />

specific number of eggs, we usually assume<br />

that the average medieval egg is somewhat<br />

smaller th<strong>an</strong> a modern large egg; we have no<br />

evidence for whether this is correct other th<strong>an</strong><br />

how the recipes come out. When we specify a<br />

number of eggs in the worked out version of a<br />

recipe, they are large eggs.<br />

Our recipes occasionally show <strong>an</strong>

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