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How to Milk an Almond Stuff an Egg And Armor a Turnip A ...

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111<br />

overdoing it, <strong>an</strong>d leave it aside. Then take fine<br />

flour <strong>an</strong>d semolina, make a well-made dough with<br />

leaven, <strong>an</strong>d if it has some oil it will be more<br />

flavorful. Then roll out from it a flatbread <strong>an</strong>d<br />

put inside it the fried <strong>an</strong>d cooked meat of these<br />

birds, cover it with <strong>an</strong>other flatbread <strong>an</strong>d stick<br />

the ends <strong>to</strong>gether. Put it in the oven, <strong>an</strong>d when<br />

the bread is done, take it out. It is very good on<br />

journeys. You might make it with fish <strong>an</strong>d that<br />

c<strong>an</strong> be used for journeying <strong>to</strong>o.<br />

Note: The Barmecides were a family of<br />

Persi<strong>an</strong> viziers who served some of the early<br />

Abbasid Caliphs, in particular Haroun al-<br />

Rashid, <strong>an</strong>d were famed for their generosity.<br />

1 lb boned chicken 3 T olive oil<br />

or lamb 3 T more olive oil<br />

10 oz onion 1 ½ c white flour<br />

1 t salt 1 ½ c semolina<br />

½ t pepper [1 t salt in dough]<br />

1 t cori<strong>an</strong>der 3 T more olive oil<br />

1 ½ t lavender ¾ c water<br />

or cinnamon ½ c sourdough<br />

1 T murri (see p. 5)<br />

Cut the meat fairly fine (approximately ¼"<br />

slices, then cut them up), combine in a 3 quart<br />

pot with chopped onion, 1 t salt, spices, murri,<br />

<strong>an</strong>d 3 T oil. Cook over a medium low <strong>to</strong><br />

medium heat about <strong>an</strong> hour. Cover it at the<br />

beginning so it all gets hot, at which point the<br />

onion <strong>an</strong>d meat release their juices; remove<br />

the cover <strong>an</strong>d cook until the liquid is gone,<br />

about 30 minutes. Then heat 3 T more oil in a<br />

large frying p<strong>an</strong> on a medium high burner,<br />

add the contents of the pot, fry over medium<br />

high heat about five minutes.<br />

Stir <strong>to</strong>gether flour, semolina, 1 t salt.<br />

Gradually stir in 3 T oil. Combine ¾ c water,<br />

½ c sourdough. Stir this in<strong>to</strong> the flour mixture<br />

<strong>an</strong>d knead <strong>to</strong> a smooth dough (which should<br />

only take a few minutes). If you do not have<br />

sourdough, omit it; since the recipes does not<br />

give the dough much time <strong>to</strong> rise, the<br />

sourdough probably does not have a large<br />

effect on the consistency of the dough.<br />

Divide the dough in four equal parts. Take<br />

two parts, turn them out on a floured board,<br />

squeeze <strong>an</strong>d stretch each (or use a rolling pin)<br />

until it is at least 12" by 5". Put half the filling<br />

on one, put the other on <strong>to</strong>p, squeeze the<br />

edges <strong>to</strong>gether <strong>to</strong> seal. Repeat with the other<br />

two parts of the dough <strong>an</strong>d the rest of the<br />

filling. Bake on a lightly oiled cookie sheet at<br />

350° for 40 minutes.<br />

For the fish version, start with 1 ¼ lb of<br />

fish (we used salmon). If it is boneless,<br />

proceed as above, shortening the cooking time<br />

<strong>to</strong> about 35 minutes; it is not necessary <strong>to</strong> cut<br />

up the fish fine, since it will crumble easily<br />

once it is cooked. If your fish has bones, put it<br />

on <strong>to</strong>p of the oil, onions, spices etc., in the<br />

largest pieces that will fit in the pot, cover the<br />

pot, <strong>an</strong>d cook for about 10-15 minutes, until<br />

the fish is almost ready <strong>to</strong> fall apart; in effect,<br />

it is being steamed by the liquid produced<br />

from the onions <strong>an</strong>d by its own liquid. Take<br />

out the fish, bone it, return <strong>to</strong> the pot, <strong>an</strong>d<br />

cook uncovered about 30 minutes until the<br />

liquid is mostly gone. Continue as above.<br />

Relishes & Dips<br />

Badinj<strong>an</strong> Muhassa<br />

Ibn al-Mahdi’s cookbook in al-Warraq<br />

tr<strong>an</strong>slated by Perry. (9th-10th c.) (Good)<br />

Cook eggpl<strong>an</strong>ts until soft by baking, boiling or<br />

grilling over the fire, leaving them whole. When<br />

they are cool, remove the loose skin, drain the<br />

bitter liquor <strong>an</strong>d chop the flesh fine. It should be<br />

coarser th<strong>an</strong> a true purée. Grind walnuts fine<br />

<strong>an</strong>d make in<strong>to</strong> a dough with vinegar <strong>an</strong>d salt.<br />

Form in<strong>to</strong> a patty <strong>an</strong>d fry on both sides until the<br />

taste of raw walnut is gone; the vinegar is <strong>to</strong><br />

delay scorching of the nuts. Mix the cooked<br />

walnuts in<strong>to</strong> the chopped eggpl<strong>an</strong>t <strong>an</strong>d season <strong>to</strong><br />

taste with vinegar <strong>an</strong>d ground caraway seed, salt<br />

<strong>an</strong>d pepper. Serve with a <strong>to</strong>pping of chopped raw<br />

or fried onion.<br />

¾ lb eggpl<strong>an</strong>t ⅛ t salt<br />

1 c walnuts 1 t caraway seed<br />

2 T vinegar 1 ½ T vinegar (at the end)<br />

½ t salt ¼ c chopped raw onion<br />

⅛ t pepper<br />

Simmer the eggpl<strong>an</strong>t 20 <strong>to</strong> 30 minutes in<br />

salted water (½ t salt in a pint of water). Let it<br />

cool. Peel it. Slice it <strong>an</strong>d let the slices sit on a<br />

col<strong>an</strong>der or a cloth for <strong>an</strong> hour or so, <strong>to</strong> let out<br />

the bitter juice.<br />

Grind the walnuts, add vinegar <strong>an</strong>d salt <strong>to</strong><br />

make a dough. Make patties about ½" thick

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