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Oven Dishes <strong>an</strong>d Roasting<br />

The making of Badî'i, the Remarkable Dish<br />

<strong>And</strong>alusi<strong>an</strong> p. A-9<br />

Take the meat of a very plump lamb <strong>an</strong>d cut<br />

it in small pieces <strong>an</strong>d put them in a pot with a<br />

little salt, a piece of onion, cori<strong>an</strong>der, lavender,<br />

saffron <strong>an</strong>d oil, <strong>an</strong>d cook it halfway. Then take<br />

fresh cheese, not <strong>to</strong>o soft in order that it will not<br />

fall apart, cut it with a knife in<strong>to</strong> sheets<br />

approximately the size of the palm, place them in<br />

a dish, color them with saffron, sprinkle them<br />

with lavender <strong>an</strong>d turn them until they are<br />

colored on all sides. Place them with the cooked<br />

meat in the pot or in a tajine <strong>an</strong>d add eggs beaten<br />

with saffron, lavender <strong>an</strong>d cinnamon, as<br />

necessary, <strong>an</strong>d bury in it whole egg yolks <strong>an</strong>d<br />

cover with plenty of oil <strong>an</strong>d with the fat of the<br />

cooked meat. Place it in the oven <strong>an</strong>d leave it<br />

until the sauce is dry <strong>an</strong>d the meat is completely<br />

cooked <strong>an</strong>d the upper part turns red [the<br />

tr<strong>an</strong>sla<strong>to</strong>r suggests the alternative “browns” but it<br />

turns red in our experience]. Take it out, leave it a<br />

while until its heat passes <strong>an</strong>d it is cool, <strong>an</strong>d then<br />

use it.<br />

1 lb lamb 6 oz cheese<br />

½ t dried lavender ½ t lavender<br />

4 threads saffron 3 threads saffron<br />

¼ t salt ½ t more lavender<br />

½ small onion (2 oz) 2 beaten eggs<br />

½ t ground cori<strong>an</strong>der ½ t cinnamon<br />

2 T olive oil 4 whole egg yolks<br />

6 more threads saffron 2 T olive oil<br />

Cut lamb in<strong>to</strong> ½" cubes. Grind ½ t<br />

lavender <strong>an</strong>d 4 threads saffron in a mortar.<br />

Combine lamb, salt, onion, cori<strong>an</strong>der,<br />

lavender, saffron <strong>an</strong>d oil <strong>an</strong>d simmer in 1 c<br />

water for 10 minutes. Grind the second lot of<br />

saffron (6 threads) in a mortar, adding 1 T<br />

water. Cut cheese—we used mozzarella—in<br />

slices, paint them with the saffron water,<br />

sprinkle with ½ t more lavender. Drain meat<br />

<strong>an</strong>d separate the fat from the broth. Put meat<br />

in the pot, cover with cheese slices. Grind 3<br />

threads saffron <strong>an</strong>d ½ t lavender in a mortar,<br />

beat with eggs <strong>an</strong>d cinnamon. Pour eggs over<br />

meat <strong>an</strong>d cheese. Place whole egg yolks on<br />

108<br />

<strong>to</strong>p, pour over everything the fat (I had about<br />

3 T) plus the second 2 T of oil. Bake at 350°<br />

for 45 minutes, by which time the <strong>to</strong>p should<br />

have turned reddish brown. Let cool, then<br />

serve.<br />

Recipe for Thûmiyya, a Garlicky Dish<br />

<strong>And</strong>alusi<strong>an</strong> p. A-8<br />

Take a plump hen <strong>an</strong>d take out what is inside<br />

it, cle<strong>an</strong> that <strong>an</strong>d leave aside. Then take four<br />

ûqiyas of peeled garlic <strong>an</strong>d pound them until they<br />

are like brains, <strong>an</strong>d mix with what comes out of<br />

the interior of the chicken. Fry it in enough oil <strong>to</strong><br />

cover, until the smell of garlic comes out. Mix this<br />

with the chicken in a cle<strong>an</strong> pot with salt, pepper,<br />

cinnamon, lavender, ginger, cloves, saffron, peeled<br />

whole almonds, both pounded <strong>an</strong>d whole, <strong>an</strong>d a<br />

little murri naqî'. Seal the pot with dough, place<br />

it in the oven <strong>an</strong>d leave it until it is done. Then<br />

take it out <strong>an</strong>d open the pot, pour its contents in<br />

a cle<strong>an</strong> dish <strong>an</strong>d <strong>an</strong> aromatic scent will come<br />

forth from it <strong>an</strong>d perfume the area. This chicken<br />

was made for the Sayyid Abu al-Has<strong>an</strong> <strong>an</strong>d<br />

much appreciated.<br />

5 oz garlic 1 t ginger<br />

1 hen ¼ t cloves<br />

6 T oil 15 threads saffron<br />

½ t salt ½ c whole almonds<br />

½ t pepper ⅞ c crushed almonds<br />

1 t cinnamon ¼ c murri (see p. 5)<br />

2 t lavender ~1 c flour + water<br />

Crush garlic. Fry garlic <strong>an</strong>d giblets from<br />

chicken in oil on medium heat for about 15<br />

minutes. Put all ingredients except dough in<br />

the pot, crushing the saffron in<strong>to</strong> a few T of<br />

water <strong>to</strong> extract flavor <strong>an</strong>d color. Mix flour<br />

<strong>an</strong>d water <strong>to</strong> make the dough, roll it in<strong>to</strong> a<br />

strip, put it on the edge of the dish <strong>an</strong>d jam the<br />

lid on<strong>to</strong> it <strong>to</strong> seal the lid on the pot. Bake at<br />

350° for 1 hour.<br />

Charles Perry, who tr<strong>an</strong>slated this, notes<br />

that four ûqiyas of garlic (⅓ of a pound)<br />

works out pretty close <strong>to</strong> the 40 cloves called<br />

for in a famous Provençal dish. “Leave out the<br />

spices <strong>an</strong>d the almonds, <strong>an</strong>d you’d about have<br />

poulet à 40 gousses d’ail.”

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