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Wheat Starch (Amidoun): C<strong>an</strong> be found in<br />

Ir<strong>an</strong>i<strong>an</strong> grocery s<strong>to</strong>res.<br />

Other Spices: For cubebs, grains of<br />

paradise, <strong>an</strong>d long pepper try a good specialty<br />

spice s<strong>to</strong>re or merch<strong>an</strong>ts at Pennsic; if you<br />

c<strong>an</strong>not find them, substitute pepper. Saunders<br />

is ground s<strong>an</strong>dalwood root used as red food<br />

coloring. We have heard that World Spice<br />

Merch<strong>an</strong>ts is a good online source:<br />

wsm@worldspice.com; www.worldspice.com<br />

Murri<br />

Islamic recipes frequently contain <strong>an</strong><br />

ingredient tr<strong>an</strong>slated as “murri” or “almori.” It<br />

was extensively used in early Islamic cooking,<br />

rather as soy sauce is in Chinese cooking, <strong>an</strong>d<br />

v<strong>an</strong>ished sometime after the fourteenth<br />

century. Al-Baghdadi gives the following<br />

recipes for making it; if you try one <strong>an</strong>d it<br />

works, let me know. According <strong>to</strong> Charles<br />

Perry, the tr<strong>an</strong>sla<strong>to</strong>r of the Kitab al Tibakhah<br />

mentioned above, the penny-royal in these<br />

recipes is a mis-tr<strong>an</strong>slation <strong>an</strong>d should be<br />

budhaj (rotted barley). He gives the following<br />

instructions for making budhaj:<br />

“All the recipes concur that budhaj was<br />

made from barley flour (or a mixture of<br />

barley <strong>an</strong>d wheat) kneaded without leaven or<br />

salt. Loaves of this dough were rotted,<br />

generally in closed containers for 40 days,<br />

<strong>an</strong>d then dried <strong>an</strong>d ground in<strong>to</strong> flour for<br />

further rotting in<strong>to</strong> the condiments.”<br />

(First recipe) Take 5 ratls each of pennyroyal<br />

<strong>an</strong>d flour. Make the flour in<strong>to</strong> a good<br />

dough without leaven or salt, bake, <strong>an</strong>d leave<br />

until dry. Then grind up fine with the pennyroyal,<br />

knead in<strong>to</strong> a green trough with a third<br />

the qu<strong>an</strong>tity of salt, <strong>an</strong>d put out in<strong>to</strong> the sun<br />

for 40 days in the heat of the summer,<br />

kneading every day at dawn <strong>an</strong>d evening, <strong>an</strong>d<br />

sprinkling with water. When black, put in<strong>to</strong><br />

conserving jars, cover with <strong>an</strong> equal qu<strong>an</strong>tity<br />

of water, stirring morning <strong>an</strong>d evening: then<br />

strain it in<strong>to</strong> the first murri. Add cinnamon,<br />

saffron <strong>an</strong>d some aromatic herbs.<br />

(Second recipe) Take penny-royal <strong>an</strong>d<br />

wheaten or barley flour, make in<strong>to</strong> a dry<br />

dough with hot water, using no leaven or salt,<br />

5<br />

<strong>an</strong>d bake in<strong>to</strong> a loaf with a hole in the middle.<br />

Wrap in fig leaves, stuff in<strong>to</strong> a preserving-jar,<br />

<strong>an</strong>d leave in the shade until fetid. Then<br />

remove <strong>an</strong>d dry.<br />

As you c<strong>an</strong> see, making murri is <strong>an</strong><br />

elaborate process, <strong>an</strong>d tasting unsuccessful<br />

experiments might be a hazardous one.<br />

Charles Perry has experimented with this, <strong>an</strong>d<br />

some years ago became the first person in<br />

recent centuries, so far as we know, <strong>to</strong> make<br />

murri. He says it tastes a little like soy<br />

sauce—which contains, in addition <strong>to</strong> soy<br />

be<strong>an</strong>s, fermented grains.<br />

In addition <strong>to</strong> the surviving recipes for<br />

murri, there are also at least two surviving<br />

references <strong>to</strong> what was apparently a fake<br />

murri, a substitute made by a much simpler<br />

process. If one c<strong>an</strong>not have real murri, period<br />

fake murri seems like the next best thing. The<br />

recipe is as follows:<br />

Byz<strong>an</strong>tine Murri<br />

Kitab Wasf, Sina'ah 52, p. 56, Sina'ah 51, p.<br />

65: Charles Perry tr.<br />

Description of byz<strong>an</strong>tine murri [made]<br />

right away: There is taken, upon the name of<br />

God the Most High, of honey scorched in a<br />

nuqrah [perhaps this word me<strong>an</strong>s 'a silver<br />

vessel'], three ratls; pounded scorched oven<br />

bread, ten loaves; starch, half a ratl; roasted<br />

<strong>an</strong>ise, fennel <strong>an</strong>d nigella, two uqiyahs of each;<br />

byz<strong>an</strong>tine saffron, <strong>an</strong> uqiya; celery seed, <strong>an</strong><br />

uqiyah; syri<strong>an</strong> carob, half a ratl; fifty peeled<br />

walnuts, as much as half a ratl; split quinces,<br />

five; salt, half a makkūk dissolved in honey;<br />

thirty ratls water; <strong>an</strong>d the rest of the<br />

ingredients are thrown on it, <strong>an</strong>d it is boiled<br />

on a slow flame until a third of the water is<br />

absorbed. Then it is strained well in a cle<strong>an</strong><br />

nosebag of hair. It is taken up in a greased<br />

glass or pottery vessel with a narrow <strong>to</strong>p. A<br />

little lemon from Takr<strong>an</strong>jiya (? Sina'ah 51 has<br />

Bakr Fahr) is thrown on it, <strong>an</strong>d if it suits that a<br />

little water is thrown on the dough <strong>an</strong>d it is<br />

boiled upon it <strong>an</strong>d strained, it would be a<br />

second (infusion). The weights <strong>an</strong>d<br />

measurements that are given are Antioch<strong>an</strong><br />

<strong>an</strong>d Zahiri [as] in Mayyafariqin.

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