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103<br />

Tharîda in the Style of the People of Bijaya<br />

(Bougie, a city in Algeria) Which They Call<br />

the Shâshiyya of Ibn al-Wadi'.<br />

<strong>And</strong>alusi<strong>an</strong> p. A-55<br />

Take the meat of fat spring lamb, from its<br />

fl<strong>an</strong>ks, its chest <strong>an</strong>d its fat part; cut it up <strong>an</strong>d put<br />

it in a pot with salt, onion, pepper <strong>an</strong>d cori<strong>an</strong>der<br />

seed; put it on a moderate fire <strong>an</strong>d when it is<br />

almost done, add <strong>to</strong> it lettuce, spinach, fennel<br />

“eyes” <strong>an</strong>d tender turnips. When all is ready, add<br />

peeled green fava be<strong>an</strong>s <strong>an</strong>d fresh cil<strong>an</strong>tro; when<br />

it is finished cooking, moisten with it the tharid<br />

<strong>an</strong>d arr<strong>an</strong>ge on it that meat, the vegetables <strong>an</strong>d<br />

the be<strong>an</strong>s; put on <strong>to</strong>p of the tharid, on the highest<br />

part, a small amount of butter that will pour<br />

down the sides among the vegetables. For that<br />

reason it has been likened <strong>to</strong> the shashiyya of Ibn<br />

al-Wadi, as if that white butter were the cot<strong>to</strong>n<br />

[tassel] of the shashiyya,[a fez with a white tassel,<br />

characteristic of southern Morocco in our times<br />

(CP)] that falls all over.<br />

Comments from other recipes in this book<br />

on how <strong>to</strong> make the tharid itself: “<strong>an</strong>d moisten<br />

with it a tharid crumbled from white bread<br />

crumbs <strong>an</strong>d leavened semolina well kneaded<br />

<strong>an</strong>d baked.” “A tharid of the crumb of<br />

leavened bread…” “Then crumble enough<br />

cle<strong>an</strong> white bread <strong>an</strong>d moisten it with the<br />

sauce until it soaks it up.”<br />

1 ¼ lb lamb ¼ c spinach<br />

¼ lb onion ¼ c lettuce<br />

2 ½ c water 1 t fennel<br />

1 ½ t salt ¼ c green fava be<strong>an</strong>s<br />

½ t pepper 1 ½ t cil<strong>an</strong>tro<br />

1 ½ t cori<strong>an</strong>der 8 slices bread = ~7 oz<br />

6 oz turnips 2 T butter<br />

Cut meat in<strong>to</strong> 1" <strong>to</strong> 1 ½" cubes, chop<br />

onion. Boil meat, onion, salt <strong>an</strong>d spices<br />

<strong>to</strong>gether over moderate heat until meat is<br />

tender. Peel <strong>an</strong>d chop turnips, add <strong>to</strong> meat <strong>an</strong>d<br />

cook until about three quarters done. Tear or<br />

chop spinach <strong>an</strong>d lettuce, chop fennel finely,<br />

add <strong>to</strong> meat, cook. Shell be<strong>an</strong>s, chop cil<strong>an</strong>tro<br />

<strong>an</strong>d add. Tear up bread, mix with the broth<br />

from the meat, put on platter <strong>an</strong>d serve meat<br />

<strong>an</strong>d vegetables over it, <strong>an</strong>d put butter on <strong>to</strong>p.<br />

Total cooking time 1 hour 45 minutes, more<br />

or less.<br />

Tharda of Isfunj with <strong>Milk</strong><br />

<strong>And</strong>alusi<strong>an</strong> p. A-27<br />

Make isfunj from white flour <strong>an</strong>d make it<br />

well, <strong>an</strong>d fry it. Add <strong>to</strong> it while kneading as<br />

m<strong>an</strong>y eggs as it will bear. When you are finished<br />

making it <strong>an</strong>d frying it, cook as much fresh milk<br />

as is needed <strong>an</strong>d beat in it eggwhites <strong>an</strong>d fine<br />

white flour, <strong>an</strong>d stir carefully until cooked. Then<br />

cut the isfunj in<strong>to</strong> small pieces with scissors <strong>an</strong>d<br />

moisten with the milk until saturated. Then melt<br />

butter <strong>an</strong>d throw on the tharid, <strong>an</strong>d sprinkle with<br />

sugar <strong>an</strong>d use, God willing. [see quotes from<br />

isfunj recipe p. 119]<br />

⅛ c sourdough 2 c milk<br />

⅜ c water 3 T more flour<br />

2 c flour 3 egg whites<br />

1 ½ eggs ¼ lb butter<br />

oil for frying 2 T sugar<br />

Dissolve sourdough in water <strong>an</strong>d stir it in<strong>to</strong><br />

the flour, then add eggs, stir <strong>an</strong>d knead <strong>to</strong> a<br />

reasonably uniform dough. Let it rise four<br />

hours in a warm place. Make in<strong>to</strong> thick patties<br />

about 3" in diameter <strong>an</strong>d ½" thick; fry in<br />

about ½" of hot oil. Cut patties up in<strong>to</strong> small<br />

pieces with shears.<br />

Put the milk on a medium heat, stir in flour<br />

<strong>an</strong>d beaten egg white with a whisk. Beat<br />

frequently as you bring it slowly <strong>to</strong> a simmer,<br />

simmer for about 5 minutes. Stir in the cut up<br />

isfunj, add melted butter, sprinkle on sugar,<br />

<strong>an</strong>d serve.<br />

Tharda of Lamb with Garb<strong>an</strong>zos<br />

<strong>And</strong>alusi<strong>an</strong> p. A-31<br />

Cut up lamb in large pieces <strong>an</strong>d put with it<br />

spices, soaked garb<strong>an</strong>zos, oil <strong>an</strong>d salt. When it has<br />

fried, pour in enough water <strong>to</strong> cover. <strong>And</strong> when it<br />

is about done, throw in orach [a leafy vegetable<br />

related <strong>to</strong> spinach]. When it is done, throw in<br />

fresh cheese cut up in pieces like fingertips, <strong>an</strong>d<br />

break eggs in<strong>to</strong> it <strong>an</strong>d crumble bread in it, <strong>an</strong>d<br />

sprinkle it with pepper <strong>an</strong>d cinnamon, God<br />

willing.

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