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How to Milk an Almond Stuff an Egg And Armor a Turnip A ...

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Boil sumac in water about 2 minutes, let st<strong>an</strong>d<br />

5 minutes, then add it <strong>to</strong> the meat <strong>an</strong>d simmer<br />

about 15 minutes. Drain the meat, sprinkle it<br />

with lemon juice, let dry about one hour. Mix<br />

meat with spices <strong>an</strong>d mint. Grind walnuts<br />

coarsely (something between chopped fine<br />

<strong>an</strong>d ground coarse). Add walnuts <strong>an</strong>d eggs,<br />

fry as patties in sesame oil on a medium<br />

griddle. Best eaten hot with a little salt. This<br />

produces about 20 patties roughly 3 inches in<br />

diameter.<br />

The instructions call for using fresh sumac,<br />

straining it, <strong>an</strong>d using only the water it is<br />

boiled in. I c<strong>an</strong>not get fresh sumac, <strong>an</strong>d when<br />

I used dried sumac (which you get in Ir<strong>an</strong>i<strong>an</strong><br />

grocery s<strong>to</strong>res) <strong>an</strong>d followed the instructions<br />

it came out rather bl<strong>an</strong>d, so I use both the<br />

sumac <strong>an</strong>d the water the sumac was boiled in.<br />

A Type of Ahrash [Isfîriyâ]<br />

<strong>And</strong>alusi<strong>an</strong> p. A-1<br />

This is the recipe used by Sayyid Abu al-<br />

Has<strong>an</strong> <strong>an</strong>d others in Morocco, <strong>an</strong>d they called it<br />

isfîriyâ. Take red lamb, pound it vigorously <strong>an</strong>d<br />

season it with some murri naqî', vinegar, oil,<br />

pounded garlic, pepper, saffron, cumin, cori<strong>an</strong>der,<br />

lavender, cinnamon, ginger, cloves, chopped lard,<br />

<strong>an</strong>d meat with all the gristle removed <strong>an</strong>d<br />

pounded <strong>an</strong>d divided, <strong>an</strong>d enough egg <strong>to</strong> envelop<br />

the whole. Make small round flatbreads (qursas)<br />

out of them about the size of a palm or smaller,<br />

<strong>an</strong>d fry them in a p<strong>an</strong> with a lot of oil until they<br />

are browned. Then make for them a sauce of<br />

vinegar, oil, <strong>an</strong>d garlic, <strong>an</strong>d leave some of it<br />

without <strong>an</strong>y sauce: it is very good.<br />

¼ lb lamb ½ T cinnamon<br />

1 t murri (see p. 5) ¼ t ginger<br />

2 t vinegar ¼ t cloves<br />

1 t oil 1 oz lard (lamb fat)<br />

2 cloves garlic 2 oz meat (beef)<br />

½ t pepper 1 egg<br />

4 threads saffron ½ c oil for frying<br />

¾ t cumin 3 cloves garlic<br />

1 t cori<strong>an</strong>der 2 t oil<br />

½ t lavender 1 ½ t vinegar<br />

Cut up lamb <strong>an</strong>d mash in a mortar. Then<br />

add murri etc., garlic pounded in a mortar,<br />

finely chopped lamb fat, <strong>an</strong>d beef cut up <strong>an</strong>d<br />

pounded in a mortar. Mix, add <strong>an</strong> egg <strong>an</strong>d<br />

mush <strong>to</strong>gether. Fry in a p<strong>an</strong> on medium <strong>to</strong><br />

96<br />

medium high heat until brown on both sides,<br />

turning once. To make the sauce, mash the<br />

garlic in a garlic press, combine it with the<br />

additional oil <strong>an</strong>d vinegar.<br />

To Make Isfîriyâ<br />

<strong>And</strong>alusi<strong>an</strong> p. A-39<br />

Pound the flesh of a leg until it is like brains.<br />

Remove the sinews <strong>an</strong>d throw in pepper, half a<br />

spoon of honey, a little oil, as much as is needed,<br />

<strong>an</strong>d a little water. Mix all smoothly with flour<br />

<strong>an</strong>d do not neglect <strong>to</strong> pound it, <strong>an</strong>d do not slacken<br />

in this, because it will cool <strong>an</strong>d be ruined. Grease<br />

the p<strong>an</strong> with oil or fat, make the pounded meat<br />

in<strong>to</strong> flatbreads <strong>an</strong>d fry in the p<strong>an</strong>; if there be<br />

with the meat almonds or walnuts or apples, it<br />

will be superb, God willing.<br />

12 oz lamb leg meat 1 T flour<br />

½ t pepper [almonds]<br />

1 t honey [walnuts]<br />

2 T oil [3 T chopped apple]<br />

2 T water 2 T oil for frying<br />

Either pound the meat in a mortar for a<br />

long time (20-30 minutes) until it gets<br />

mooshy, almost like clay, or run it through a<br />

food processor <strong>to</strong> the same stage. Remove <strong>an</strong>y<br />

sinew, membr<strong>an</strong>e, etc. you c<strong>an</strong>. Add<br />

remaining ingredients, including optional<br />

walnuts, almonds, or apples. Fry on medium<br />

<strong>to</strong> medum high in a frying p<strong>an</strong>. To get them<br />

thin (¼" <strong>to</strong> ½"), put a patty down, flatten it on<br />

the p<strong>an</strong>, turn it, flatten it more with the<br />

p<strong>an</strong>cake turner. Fry a minute or two on each<br />

side.<br />

Serve with the garlic, vinegar, <strong>an</strong>d oil<br />

sauce from the recipe for “A Type of Ahrash<br />

[Isfîriyâ]” (p. 96).<br />

Simple Isfîriyâ<br />

<strong>And</strong>alusi<strong>an</strong> p. A-1<br />

Break however m<strong>an</strong>y eggs you like in<strong>to</strong> a big<br />

plate <strong>an</strong>d add some sourdough, dissolved with a<br />

commensurate number of eggs, <strong>an</strong>d also pepper,<br />

cori<strong>an</strong>der, saffron, cumin, <strong>an</strong>d cinnamon. Beat it<br />

all <strong>to</strong>gether, then put it in a frying p<strong>an</strong> with oil<br />

over a moderate fire <strong>an</strong>d make thin cakes out of<br />

it, as before.

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