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95<br />

simmer in vinegar, oil <strong>an</strong>d murri 20 minutes.<br />

Me<strong>an</strong>while, heat oil in frying p<strong>an</strong> at medium<br />

high <strong>an</strong>d fry slices about 3 minutes on one<br />

side, a little less on the other, until lightly<br />

browned on both sides. Drain briefly on paper<br />

<strong>to</strong>wels then put on a serving plate, pour sauce<br />

over <strong>an</strong>d serve.<br />

Counterfeit (Vegetari<strong>an</strong>) Isfîriyâ of<br />

Garb<strong>an</strong>zos<br />

<strong>And</strong>alusi<strong>an</strong> p. A-1<br />

Pound some garb<strong>an</strong>zos, take out the skins <strong>an</strong>d<br />

grind them in<strong>to</strong> flour. <strong>And</strong> take some of the flour<br />

<strong>an</strong>d put in<strong>to</strong> a bowl with a bit of sourdough <strong>an</strong>d<br />

some egg, <strong>an</strong>d beat with spices until it's all mixed.<br />

Fry it as before in thin cakes, <strong>an</strong>d make a sauce<br />

for them.<br />

1 c chickpea flour 4 t cinnamon<br />

½ c sourdough ¼ c cil<strong>an</strong>tro, chopped<br />

4 eggs ½ t salt<br />

2 t pepper garlic sauce:<br />

2 t cori<strong>an</strong>der 3 cloves garlic<br />

16 threads saffron 2 T oil<br />

2 t cumin 2 T vinegar<br />

Chickpea flour c<strong>an</strong> be made in a mortar<br />

<strong>an</strong>d pestle or a spice grinder (a food processor<br />

would probably work <strong>to</strong>o). To make it, pound<br />

or process until the dried chickpeas are<br />

broken, then remove the loose skins <strong>an</strong>d<br />

reduce what is left <strong>to</strong> a powder. An easier<br />

approach is <strong>to</strong> buy the flour in a health food<br />

s<strong>to</strong>re or a Middle Eastern grocery. Crush the<br />

garlic in a garlic press, combine with vinegar<br />

<strong>an</strong>d oil, beat <strong>to</strong>gether <strong>to</strong> make sauce. Combine<br />

the flour, sourdough, eggs <strong>an</strong>d spices <strong>an</strong>d beat<br />

with a fork <strong>to</strong> a uniform batter. Fry in about ¼<br />

c oil in a 9" frying p<strong>an</strong> at medium high<br />

temperature until brown on both sides, turning<br />

once. Add more oil as necessary. Drain on a<br />

paper <strong>to</strong>wel. Serve with sauce.<br />

Note: The ingredients for the sauce are<br />

from “A Type of Ahrash [Isfîriyâ]” (p. 96)<br />

which is from the same cookbook. What is<br />

done with them is pure conjecture.<br />

Maqluba al Tirrikh<br />

al-Baghdadi p. 204 (Good)<br />

Take tirrikh <strong>an</strong>d fry in sesame-oil: then take<br />

out, <strong>an</strong>d place in a dish <strong>to</strong> cool. When cold, cut off<br />

the heads <strong>an</strong>d tails, remove the spine, bone, <strong>an</strong>d<br />

scale with the greatest care. Crumble <strong>an</strong>d break<br />

up the flesh, <strong>an</strong>d sprinkle with dry cori<strong>an</strong>der,<br />

cumin, caraway <strong>an</strong>d cinnamon. Break eggs,<br />

throw on, <strong>an</strong>d mix well. Then fry in sesame-oil in<br />

a frying p<strong>an</strong> as maqluba is fried, until both sides<br />

are browned: <strong>an</strong>d remove.<br />

½ lb perch or catfish 1 t caraway<br />

1 T sesame oil 1 ½ t cinnamon<br />

½ t cori<strong>an</strong>der 1 egg<br />

½ t cumin 2 T sesame oil<br />

Fry fish in 1 T sesame oil; let it cool. Bone<br />

<strong>an</strong>d crumble it. Add spices <strong>an</strong>d eggs. Fry like<br />

p<strong>an</strong>cakes in more sesame oil. Tirrikh is a kind<br />

of Middle Eastern freshwater fish; we do not<br />

know what other fish it is similar <strong>to</strong>.<br />

Maqluba<br />

al-Baghdadi p. 201<br />

Take <strong>an</strong>d slice red meat, then chop with a<br />

large knife. Put in<strong>to</strong> the mortar, <strong>an</strong>d pound as<br />

small as possible. Take fresh sumach, boil in<br />

water, wring out, <strong>an</strong>d strain. In<strong>to</strong> this place the<br />

minced meat, <strong>an</strong>d boil until cooked, so that it has<br />

absorbed all the sumach-water, though covered <strong>to</strong><br />

twice its depth: then remove from the saucep<strong>an</strong><br />

<strong>an</strong>d spray with a little lemon-juice. Lay out <strong>to</strong><br />

dry. Then sprinkle with fine-ground seasonings,<br />

dry cori<strong>an</strong>der, cumin, pepper <strong>an</strong>d cinnamon, <strong>an</strong>d<br />

rub over it a few sprigs of dry mint. Take<br />

walnuts, grind coarse, <strong>an</strong>d add: break eggs <strong>an</strong>d<br />

throw in, mixing well. Make in<strong>to</strong> cakes, <strong>an</strong>d fry<br />

in fresh sesame-oil, in a fine iron or copper<br />

frying-p<strong>an</strong>. When one side is cooked, turn over on<br />

<strong>to</strong> the other side: then remove.<br />

10 oz lamb ½ t pepper<br />

2 T dried sumac 1 t cinnamon<br />

½ c water ½ t dry mint<br />

1 T lemon juice 1 ¼ c walnuts<br />

½ t ground cori<strong>an</strong>der 5 eggs<br />

½ t cumin 2 T sesame oil<br />

Either use ground lamb or take lamb meat,<br />

chop it with a knife, then pound in a mortar.<br />

Both ways work but give different textures.

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