sewing machine operations mannual prepared by: orient craft - smallB

SEWING MACHINE OPERATIONS MANNUAL 

PREPARED BY: 

ORIENT CRAFT FASHFION INSTITUTE OF TECHNOLOGY 

Chenetha bhavan, Nampally, Hyderabad- 500 001 

SUBMITTED TO: 

GERMAN DEVELOPMENT CO-OPERATION-GTZ 

21, Jor Bagh, New Delhi – 110 003 

Page | 1

CONTENTS 

PARTICULARS Page No. 

CHAPTER – I 6 

INTRODUCTION 

CHAPTER – II 7 To 22 

SEWING MACHINE 

1. INVENTION OF THE SEWING MACHINE 

2. HISTORY OF SEWING MACHINE 

3. PARTS OF SEWING MACHINE 

4. MACHINE TERMINOLOGY 

5. MODERN INDUSTRIAL SEWING MACHINES 

A. MULTI - NEEDLE PLEAT GAUGE 

B. OVERLOCK MACHINE 

C. BARTAK SEWING MACHINE 

D. BUTTON SEWING MACHINE 

E. BUTTON HOLE MACHINE 

F. FEED OF THE ARM 

6. MEASURING TOOLS 

CHAPTER – III 23 To 27 

SELECTION CRITERIA FOR SMO TRAINEES 

1. Page board test 

2. Color Blindness 

3. Visual Dexterity 

CHAPTER - IV - TRAINING OF SEWING MACAHINE OPERATORS 28 To 87 

1. PAPER EXERCIESES 29 to 61 

A. Pedal Control at Maximum Velocity 

B. Precise stops at maximum speed 

C. Straight stitches at maximum velocity 

D. Change of Direction with Needle Down 

E. Sewing Curve with One Hand 

F. Sewing in Circles 

G. Judging changes of direction 

H. Sewing curves 

I. Over Lock Sewing straight line 

J. Over Lock Exact stop 

K. Sewing curves 

2. THREADING OF MACHINE (Single needle lock stitch machine) 62 To 65 

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A. Thread the Machine and Draw up the Bobbin Thread 

B. Threading the bobbin case 

C. Bobbin winding 

3. FABRIC EXERCISES 66 To 87 

A. Sewing 6”x 6” Sewing off the material 

B. Sewing 6”x 6” Staying Within Material 

C. Sewing 6”x 6” back tack 

D. Sew Over 3 Sides 6”x 12” 

E. 12 X 6 Top stitch 

F. Backtack 6”x 1`2” 

G. Baste 6” X 6” in Chain 

CHAPTER - V 88 To 90 

MEASUREMENTS AND SIZE CHART 

1. CIRCUMFERENCE MEASUREMENTS 

2. STANDARD MEASUREMENT FOR CHILDREN 

3. STANDARD MEASUREMENT FOR TEENAGERS 

CHAPTER - VI 91 To 100 

MACHINE MAINTAINANCE & SAFETY PRECATIONS 

A. Safety- Rules 

B. Important safety instructions 

C. Machine adjustments and control 

CHAPTER - VII 101 To 112 

NEEDLE 

1. SELECTION OF NEEDLE 

2. PART OF THE MACHINE NEEDLS 

3. STANDARD NEEDLES 

4. TYPE OF NEEDLE AND THEIR USE 

5. NEEDLE SIZE AND RELEVANCE OF TYPE OF THE MATERIAL TO BE STICHED 

CHAPTER - VIII 113 To 116 

SEWING THREAD AND SELECTION CRITERIA 

CHAPTER - IX 117 To 127 

TYPES OF STITCHES AND SEAM 

1. STITCH CLASSIFICATIONS 

2. SEAM TYPES AND CLASSIFICATIONS 

3. SEAMS & STITCHES OF MEN`S SHIRT 

4. SEAMS & STITCHES OF MENS`S TROUSER 

5. SEAMS & STITCHES OF DENIM TROUSER 

6. SEAMS & STITCHES OF POLO T - SHIRT 

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7. SEAMS & STITCHES OF ROUND NECK T – SHIRT 

CHAPTER - X 128 To 132 

DIFFERENT TYPES OF SEWING DEFECTS & REMIDIES 

1. DOUBLE NEEDLE LOCK STICH MACHINE 

2. BUTTON HOLING SEWING MACHINE 

3. BUTTON STITCH MACHINE 

4. OVER LOCK MACHINE 

CHAPTER - XI - GARMENT MANUFACTURING 133 To 226 

PARTS AND ASSEMBLY PREPARATION OF A SHIRT 

1. Straight Long Seams with minimal bursts 

2. Attaching one piece to other using folder 

3. Placket facing attach using folder 

4. Hemming operations using folder 

5. Square pocket attach 

6. Rounded bottom pocket attach 

7. Bottom triangle pocket attach 

8. Diamond pocket attach 

9. Long & Short seams with needle down stoppages at corners 

10. Collar run stitch operation 

11. Top stitch along edges 

12. Hem along the contour 

13. Mock neck band hem 

14. Sewing with template 

15. Mock pick stitching 

16. Top stitch handling tree piles 

17. Mock centre stitch collar 

18. Mock topstitch collar 

19. Cuff hem 

20. Mock run stitch cuffs 

21. Binding operation 

22. Binding operation using a folder 

23. Mock continuous slv placket attach using a folder 

24. Mock split edge placket attach operation using folder 

25. Attach two plies using folder 

26. Pleats 

27. Mock yoke attach with folder 

28. Shoulder attach without folder 

29. Topstitch shoulder 

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30. Shoulder attach using folder 

31. Sew contour fabric to straight fabric 

32. Mock collar attach 

33. Binding operations 

34. Mock collar finish 

35. Lap seam along contour 

36. Mock sleeve attach operation (Lap Seam) 

37. Lap seam along contour using folder 

38. Mock sleeve attach operation (Lap seam) with folder 

39. Topstitch along contour over lap seam 

40. Topstitch along contour over lap seam using folder 

41. Topstitch sleeve attach 

42. Topstitch sleeve attach using folder 

43. Hemming long contours (Curved) 

44. Long straight hemming 

45. Hemming long contours (Curved) using folder 

46. Long straight hemming using folder 

CHAPTER – XII 227 To 241 

DIFFERENT TYPES OF SEWING ATTACHMENTS AND USE ON MACHINE 

1. Various Collar Operations 

2. Yoking and Shoulder Joining: 

3. Pocket Hemming 

4. Cuff Hemming - Short Sleeve 

5. Tail Hemming 

6. Button Stay Hemming 

7. Cuff Hemming - Long Sleeve 

8. Setting Sleeve Plackets 

9. Closing Side Seams 

10. Sleeve Setting 

11. Attach Center Placket 

12. Pleat Gauge 

CHAPTER – XII 

MONTHLY SCHEDULE FOR SEWING MACHINE OPERATOR TRAINING PROGRAMME 242 To 243 

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INTRODUCTION 

CHAPTER - I 

Apparel and Textile industry in India is the largest employer after agriculture. It 

provides direct employment to 35 million people and another 56 million are engaged in 

related activities. Around 14% of industrial production of the country is contributed by the 

sector. Indeed the apparel sector place a major role in Indian economy and also in foreign 

exchange earnings. Apparel exports contribute approximately 9% in India’s total exports 

earnings and accounts for about 4% of world trade in textiles and apparels. It is pertinent to 

mention that the apparel sector predominantly consist of Small and Medium Enterprises 

(SMEs). With the abolition of quota regime under WTO and opening of markets, there is 

competition from many countries to retain the existing global market share and also look for 

new markets. India has set a target under 11 th plan to earn $ 50 billion through exports of 

textiles and apparels. To reach the target Indian apparel industry has to work on many 

fronts to be successful in a totally competitive international environment particularly 

focusing on factors like development of skilled human resource, quality and productivity, 

design development and product diversification and improving lead time and pricing, 

effective marketing management. 

Indian Small and Medium Enterprises (SMEs) alone cannot attain competitiveness 

without the support of likeminded international partners like German Technical Co 

operation (GTZ) to enhance the competitiveness of SMEs. Indeed GTZ is committed under 

SME Financing and Development Project for the development of apparel sector and 

identified it as the priority sector for intervention. 

Against the back ground the GTZ has undertaken the task of MSMEs competency 

building through business development services in Readymade garments cluster at 

Hyderabad with the support of Orient Craft Fashion Institute of Technology (OCFIT) 

particularly in preparing manual for sewing machine operators. 

In furtherance of the same, OCFIT with a view to assist development of readymade 

garment cluster in Hyderabad focusing around 50 RMGs (16 micro units, 14 small units and 

20 medium and large units), studied their working pattern, commercial viability and 

prepared this manual to assist the sewing machine operators. 

Indeed this manual is prepared based on best international sewing practices world 

over with a focus on exports of readymade garments from India through SMEs. 

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CHAPTER - II 

SEWING MACHINE 

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1. INVENTION OF THE SEWING MACHINE 

The democratization of fashion began with the invention of the sewing machine, which 

turned a handicraft into an industry. The sewing machine made the mass production of clothing 

possible. In 1829, a French tailor named Thimmonier patented a wooden chain-stitch sewing 

machine, but all existing models were destroyed by rioting tailors who feared for their jobs. Walter 

Hunt, an American, developed a sewing machine in 1832 but failed to patent it. Thus, the man who 

is usually credited with its invention is Elias Howe, who patented his in 1846. All of Howe’s machines 

were run by hand. 

In 1859, Isaac Singer, whose name has become a household word because of his mass 

production of the sewing machine. He developed the foot treadle, an improvement that left the 

hands free to guide the fabric, and mass-produced these machines. Singer spent $1 million a year on 

sales promotion and, by 1867, was producing a thousand machines per day (Electrically powered 

models were not available until 1921). To save time and to keep control over production, 

entrepreneurs brought workers and machinery together in factories. This caused many people in 

search of work to move to the cities where the factories were located. 

In 1849, when the Gold Rush attracted thousands of men in California in search of gold, a 20year 

old Bavarian immigrant by the name of Levi Strauss opened a dry goods store in San Francisco. 

In 1873 he began to manufacture long-wearing pants with riveted pockets, using a tough cotton 

fabric called serge de Nimes. (Loomed in Nimes, France), later shortened to denim. They are an item 

of wearing apparel that has remained basically the same for nearly 150 years. 

Another early use for sewing machines was to make Civil War uniforms. The Union army 

recorded the chest an height measurements of more than a million soldiers to come up with the first 

standardization of sizes. After the war, sewing machines and uniform sizing promoted the mass 

production of everyday men’s wear. 

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2. HISTORY OF SEWING MACHINE 

Historians of the early days of the sewing machine can argue for hours over the simple 

matter of who invented what is, in many ways, one of the most important machines ever 

devised. 

The story really starts in 1755 in London when a German immigrant, Charles Wiesenthal, 

took out a patent for a needle to be used for mechanical sewing. There was no mention of a 

machine to go with it, and another 34 years were to pass before Englishman Thomas Saint 

invented what is generally considered to be the first real sewing machine. 

In 1790 the cabinet maker patented a machine with which an awl made a hole in leather 

and then allowed a needle to pass through. Critics of Saint's claim to fame point out that 

quite possibly Saint only patented an idea and that most likely the machine was never built. 

It is known that when an attempt was made in the 1880s to produce a machine from Saint's 

drawings it would not work without considerable modification. 

The story then moves to Germany where, in around 1810, inventor Balthasar Krems 

developed a machine for sewing caps. No exact dates can be given for the Krems models as 

no patents were taken out. 

An Austrian tailor Josef Madersperger produced a series of machines during the early years 

of the 19th century and received a patent in 1814. He was still working on the invention in 

1839, aided by grants from the Austrian government, but he failed to get all the elements 

together successfully in one machine and eventually died a pauper. Two more inventions 

were patented in 1804, one in France to a Thomas Stone and a James Henderson -- a 

machine which attempted to emulate hand sewing -- and another to a Scott John Duncan 

for an embroidery machine using a number of needles. Nothing is known of the fate of 

either invention. 

America's first real claim to fame came in 1818 when a Vermont churchman John Adams 

Doge and his partner John Knowles produced a device which, although making a reasonable 

stitch, could only sew a very short length of material before laborious re-setting up was 

necessary. 

One of the more reasonable claimants for inventor of the sewing machine must be 

Barthelme Thimmonier who, in 1830, was granted a patent by the French government. He 

used a barbed needle for his machine which was built almost entirely of wood. It is said that 

he originally designed the machine to do embroidery, but then saw its potential as a sewing 

machine. 

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Unlike any others who went before him, he was able to convince the authorities of the 

usefulness of his invention and he was eventually given a contract to build a batch of 

machines and use them to sew uniforms for the French army. In less than 10 years after the 

granting of his patent Thimmonier had a factory running with 80 machines, but then ran 

into trouble from Parisian tailors. They feared that, were his machines successful, they 

would soon take over from hand sewing, putting the craftsmen tailors out of work. 

Late one night a group of tailors stormed the factory, destroying every machine, and causing 

Thimmonier to flee for his life. With a new partner he started again, produced a vastly- 

improved machine and looked set to go into full-scale production; but the tailors attacked 

again. With France in the grip of revolution, Thimmonier could expect little help from the 

police or army and fled to England with the one machine he was able to salvage. 

He certainly produced the first practical sewing machine, was the first man to offer 

machines for sale on a commercial basis and ran the first garment factory. For all that, he 

died in the poor house in 1857. 

In America a quaker Walter Hunt invented, in 1833, the first machine which did not try to 

emulate hand sewing. It made a lock stitch using two spools of thread and incorporated an 

eye-pointed needle as used today. But again it was unsuccessful for it could only produce 

short, straight, seams. 

Nine years later Hunt's countryman, John Greenough, produced a working machine in which 

the needle passed completely through the cloth. Although a model was made and exhibited 

in the hope of raising capital for its manufacture, there were no takers. 

Perhaps all the essentials of a modern machine came together in early 1844 when 

Englishman John Fisher invented a machine which although designed for the production of 

lace, was essentially a working sewing machine. Probably because of miss-filing at the 

patent office, this invention was overlooked during the long legal arguments between Singer 

and Howe as to the origins of the sewing machine. 

Despite a further flurry of minor inventions in the 1840s, most Americans will claim that the 

sewing machine was invented by Massachusetts farmer Elias Howe who completed his first 

prototype in 1844 just a short time after Fisher. 

A year later it was patented and Howe set about trying to interest the tailoring trade in his 

invention. He even arranged a competition with his machine set against the finest hand 

sewers in America. The machine won hands down but the world wasn't ready for 

mechanized sewing and, despite months of demonstrations, he had still not made a single 

sale. 

Desperately in debt Howe sent his brother Amasa to England with the machine in the hope 

that it would receive more interest on the other side of the Atlantic. Amasa could find only 

one backer, a corset maker William Thomas, who eventually bought the rights to the 

invention and arranged for Elias to come to London to further develop the machine. 

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The two did not work well together, each accusing the other of failing to honor agreements 

and eventually Elias, now almost penniless, returned to America. When he arrived home he 

found that the sewing machine had finally caught on and that dozens of manufacturers, 

including Singer, were busy manufacturing machines -- all of which contravened the Howe 

patents. 

A long series of law suits followed and were only settled when the big companies, including 

Wheeler & Wilson and Grover & Baker, joined together, pooled their patents, and fought as 

a unit to protect their monopoly. 

Singer did not invent any notable sewing-machine advances, but he did pioneer the hirepurchase 

system and aggressive sales tactics. 

Both Singer and Howe ended their days as multi-millionaires. 

So the argument can go on about just who invented the sewing machine and it is unlikely 

that there will ever be agreement. What is clear, however, is that without the work of those 

long-dead pioneers, the dream of mechanized sewing would never have been realized. 

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3. PARTS OF SEWING MACHINE: 

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4. MACHINE TERMINOLOGY 

The parts of the lockstitch machine, which are identified below. 

Arm The horizontal part of the head that houses the drive shafts. 

Bed The working surface of the machine under winch is located the 

mechanism at handles the lower thread. On a flat bed machine, the bed 

rests In the cut-out of the table. 

Belt (motor belt or machine 

belt) 

The circular strap that transmits motion from the pulley to the hand 

wheel, allowing the machine to operate. 

Bobbin Mechanism The parts - bobbin, bobbin case, and bobbin tension spring - that control 

the lower thread and Its tension. 

Bobbin winder The part that fills another bobbin while the machine is stitching. 

check spring (tension spring or 

take-up spring) 

A small wire spring behind or at the top of the tension discs. It provides 

a. small amount of tension on the needle thread and acts as a shock 

absorber. On some machines, the check spring is mounted separately. 

Faceplate The cover on the left side of the bead that covers the needle bar and the 

presser bar. 

feed dogs (feed dog, feeder or 

feed) fly wheel) 

The toothed mechanism beneath the presser foot that moves fabric 

forward and backward. 

Fittings The parts - presser foot, feed dogs, and throat plate - that control the 

cloth during stitching. 

Hand wheel (balance or 

flywheel) 

The part that controls the motion of the machine manually and/or 

electrically. 

Head The part of the machine above the table, containing the stitching 

mechanism. 

Heel The back of the presser foot. 

Hook(rotary hook or machine 

hook) 

Knee Lift (Knee Lifter or knee 

press) 

A rotating device that hooks the needle thread to carry it around the 

bobbin and form the “lock” on the lockstitch. 

A lever mounted at the right under the sewing table to lift and lower the 

presser foot with the right knee. 

Motor The electrical unit that drives the machine. 

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Needle The part that penetrates the fabric. It carries the thread to the hook or 

shuttle and up again to make the stitch. 

Needle bar A vertical bar that holds one or more needles and moves the needle up 

and down. 

Needle screw (needle bar clamp) The screw that holds the needle in the needle bar. 

Oil gauge The part that Indicates the amount of oil in self-oiling machines. 

Pan (machine pan) The metal pan. under the head that catches oil, lint and metal shards. 

On self-lubricating machines, it holds the oil. 

Presser bar The bar to which the presser foot is attached. 

Presser bar lifter A lever at the back of presser bar to raise and lower the presser foot by 

hand. It is used to raise the presser foot when winding a bobbin and 

when not stitching.(Its use is discouraged in industrial sewing because it 

wastes time and energy). 

Presser foot A device that holds the fabric in place for stitching. 

Pressure regulator Control that regulates the amount of pressure on the (pressure dial) 

presser foot. 

Pretension A simple tension disc used to regulate the thread so that it will feed into 

the tension assembly evenly. 

Pulley The wheel attached to the motor. It transmits motion from the motor to 

the hand wheel by means of a leather belt. 

Rotary hook assembly The part that holds the bobbin case. 

Shuttle An oscillating device that carries the needle thread around the bobbin 

and forms the “lock” on the lockstitch. 

Slack thread regulator A metal hook or bar near the tension discs. 

Slide plate (slide or bed slide) A removable cover at the left of the machine bed that bed allows access 

to the lower mechanism. 

Sole (shoe or slipper) The bottom part of the presser foot that contracts the cloth. 

Stand A metal structure upon which the table is mounted. 

Stitch hole (needle hole) The hole in the throat plate. The needle carries the thread into the hole 

so that it can interlock with the bobbin thread. 

Stitch regulator A device that regulates stitch length. 

Switch (power switch) A key or button that turns the machine on and off. 

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Table The cabinet upon which the bead rests, it generally has a drawer on the 

left side. 

Take-up lever The part that first loosens the top thread during the stitch formation, 

then removes any slack to set or lock the stitch. 

Take-up lever guard A piece of metal in front of the thread take-up lever. 

Tension discs Two concave discs that control the delivery of the upper thread from 

the spool to the needle. 

Thread guides (thread eyelets) The parts that guide the thread from the thread cone (thread eyelets) to 

the needle. They smooth the thread and protect it from abrasion. 

Thread retainer (pretension) A three-hole guide that applies a small amount of tension on the thread 

so it win flow into the tension discs uniformly. 

Thread stand A metal device that holds thread cones. 

Throat plate The smooth surface directly under the presser foot that includes the 

stitch hole and surrounds the feed dog. It protects the lower mechanism 

from a build-up of excess lint. 

Toes (Prongs) The front end of the presser foot, or the part that faces the oncoming 

cloth. It is frequently upturned. On feet such as the zipper foot, cording 

foot, and shirring foot, there is only one toe. 

Treadle (foot treadle) A metal platform on which the feet rest.(Note: In case of an accident, 

the clutch control releases the hand wheel so that it can be turned). 

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5. MODERN INDUSTRIAL SEWING MACHINES 

A. MULTI – NEEDLE PLEAT GAUGE 

Imperial multi-needle pleat gauges for tuxedo front shirts - both men's 

and ladies'. 

Several pleat types are available; including exposed and covered types 

illustrated above. 

Attachments available for Union Special 54400 (type 401 stitch) 

machines or 52 Class (type 101 stitch) machine. 

Exact finish size and samples are required. Please Submit Samples with 

Order. 

Both Union Special 54400 and Imperial 52 Class machines also available. 

Page | 16

B. OVERLOCK MACHINE 

Type of stitch Lock stitch 

Machine speed 2500[s.p.m/r.p.m] 

Type of motor used Induction motor 

Type of lubrication Automatic 

Oil used G2 

Type of feed Different feed 

Type of needle DP X 5 

Type of bed Cylindrical bed 

Purpose of machine Loops attaching 

Power consumption 3/4HP 

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C. BARTACK SEWING MACHINE 





Oil used G2 




Purpose of machine Loops attaching 


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D. BUTTON SEWING MACHINE 





Oil used G2 




Purpose of machine Button sewing 


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E. BUTTON HOLE MACHINE 

Type of stitch Lock stitch [bobbin, bobbin case are used]. 

Machine speed 3600 -4000[s.p.m/r.p.m] 



Oil used G1 


Type of bed Raised bed 

Purpose of machine Making button holes 


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F. FEED OF THE ARM 

Type of stitch Chine stitch 


Type of motor used Clutch motor 

Type of lubrication Automatic & manuals 

Oil used G1 

Type of feed Needle feed 

Type of needle TV X 1orTV X 64 


Purpose of machine Joining sleeves, side of trouser 

Power consumption 1/2 HP 

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6. MEASURING TOOLS 

Fabric Scissors 

Paper Scissors 

Seam ripper Measuring Tape 

Trimmer 

Pencil & Eraser 

Tracing Wheel 

Measuring Scale 

Page | 22

CHAPTER-III 

SELECTION CRITERIA FOR SMO TRAINEES 

Page | 23

The Candidate for the SMO Training Programme must have the minimum 

qualification of 8 th Standard. 

The Candidate’s age preferably should be between 18 to 25 years. 

The objective of the program is to meet the skill requirements of the apparel 

industry and to create gainful employment opportunities for rural BPL families in 

apparel industry. So, keeping in view the requirements of the industry, the candidate 

for the SMO Programme has to pass through the following tests: 

1. PEG BOARD TEST 

The Peg Board Test is conducted to know the hand movement of the candidate. The Purdue 

Pegboard has been used extensively for various applications. It has two types of activity: 

one measures gross movements of the hands, fingers, and arms, and the other measures 

assembly or fingertip dexterity. 

The Peg Board Test consists of a rectangular board that holds cylindrical pegs. The pegs are 

approximately two inch (2.5 cm) in height, and are colored red on one side, black on the 

other. Two tests were chosen for this research. The peg board test requires subjects to 

transfer the pegs from one hole in the tray to another. The peg board test requires subjects 

to pick up a peg, transfer it to the other hand while turning it over, and replace it with the 

opposite side facing up. 

The operator will be given 80 sec of time to complete it. The operator has to complete the 

exercises given in the given span of period. 

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2. COLOR BLINDNESS TEST 

The colour blindness test used test to check color vision deficiencies. There are different 

sets available which are often used for pilot, police officer and other job recruitments, 

where perfect colour vision is a precondition. 

This is a test plate in which everyone should see a "12". 

This plate is designed to separate the type of color defectives and the level to which they 

are observed. Most will see the number "26" clearly while some will only see a "2" or a "6" 

or no numerals at all. 

Can you trace a line from one "X" to the other? Someone with normal color vision will trace 

an orange/brown purple line and those with a slight deficiency will follow a different path. 

Page | 25

Some of the Examples are: 

The operator will be shown 10 figures. Each carries 5 sec of time. The operator must be able 

to recognize the Letter or Number which is in the Figure in the given span of time. 

Page | 26

3. VISUAL DEXTERITY TEST 

Example: 

Practice: 

Visual Dexterity test is the crucial one which plays major role in knowing the Eye 

Coordination of the operator. 

Eye coordination is a crucial skill involving how effective we are at translating what our eyes 

see into appropriate physical responses, such as anticipating the motion of a line in its way 

so that we could find out the exact destiny of the line. The operator will be given two 

exercises; each carries 30 sec of time to complete it. The operator has to complete the 

exercises given in the given span of period. 

8 

5 

3 

2 

7 

1 

6 

9 

4 

10 

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CHAPTER-IV 

TRAINING OF SEWING MACHINE OPERATORS 

1. PAPER EXERCISES 

Page | 28

STOP 

A. Pedal Control at Maximum Velocity 

MACHINE: SNLS EXERCISE – 1 DURATION: 6 SECS 

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START

Machine: SNLS 

Exercise : Pedal Control at Maximum Velocity 

Starting Position: 

The apprentice should sit facing the sewing machine with 

both feet on the pedal and the right knee against the knee lift. 

Paper in starting position. No thread in machine. 

Methodology: 

Security 

The timekeeper starts the chronometer. 

Place paper under the machine so that the dotted 

line lies directly under the needle. 

Sew at maximum speed without leaving boundary. 

stop at the end of the column with the needle at top 

position (1 stitch tolerance). 

Raise the foot and slide the paper to the next 

column. 



Sew the second line until the end. 

Raise the foot and slide paper to the next column. 

Stop the chronometer when apprentice sets paper 

on the third column. 

Hold the paper with the thumb under the paper. 

Maintain fingers away from needle at all times. 

use glasses. 

Avoid using loose clothing and/or long and loose hair. 

Quality 

Do not tear paper. 

The stitch line should remain straight and within the 

column limits 

Ergonomics 

Sited in front of the sewing machine. 

Both feet on pedal 

Goal: 

6 Seconds 

Illustration: 

Exercise Number : 

Paper Exercise #1 

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chair and Machine at a comfortable height. 

Back rest facing forward. 

Waste 

Throw away used paper. Use paper several times 

Abilities developed 

Pedal control 

Straight stitches centered at a 3/8” at maximum velocity. 

Use of knee lift to elevate machine foot. 

Necessary material 

SNLS without thread 

Paper exercise #1 

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B. Precise stops at maximum speed 


START 

STOP 

Page | 32

Machine: SNLS 

Exercise : Precise stops at maximum speed 


The apprentice should sit facing the sewing machine 

with both feet on the pedal and the right knee against 

the knee lift. Paper in starting position. No thread in 


Methodology: 

Security 


Place paper under the machine so that the 

dotted line lies directly under the needle. 

Sew at maximum speed without leaving 

boundary. 

stop at the end of the 1 st column with the 

needle at top position (1 stitch tolerance). 

Raise the foot and slide the paper to the next 

column. 



Sew the second line until the end. 

Raise the foot and slide paper to the next 

column. 

Stop the chronometer when apprentice sets 

paper on the third column. 



use glasses. 


Quality 


The stitch line should remain straight and within the 

column limits 

Ergonomics 



Goal: 6 Seconds 

Illustration: 


Paper exercise # 2 

Page | 33



Waste 



Pedal control 

Straight stitches centered at a 3/8” at maximum 

velocity. 





Page | 34

STOP 

C. Straight stitches at maximum velocity 


Page | 35 

START

Machine: SNLS 

Exercise : Straight stitches at maximum velocity 





Methodology: 




Sew at maximum speed in a straight line within 

boundaries. 

Stop with the pedal at the end of the rectangle with 

the needle at the top position. 

Make sure the stitches do not leave the rectangle. 

Lift the machine’s foot and slide paper so that the 

second dotted line lies directly under the needle. 


boundaries. 

Stop with the pedal once the apprentice has 

reached the end of the rectangle, keeping the 

needle in the 

top position. 


third dotted line lies directly under the needle. 

The chronometer is stopped once the paper is 

placed under the third dotted line. 

Note: Each cycle includes two lines 

Security 



Use glasses. 


Quality 


The stitch line should remain straight and within 

Boundaries. 

Ergonomics 



Chair and Machine at a comfortable height. 

Goal : 10 Seconds Exercise Number : 

Illustration: 


Page | 36


Waste 



Exact Stops 

Straight stitches at maximum velocity centered at 

118” margin. 





Page | 37

D. Change of Direction with Needle Down 

MACHINE:SNLS EXERCISE – 4 DURATION: 10 SECS 

Page | 38 

START 

STOP

Machine: SNLS 

Exercise : Change of Direction with Needle Down 






Methodology: 




Sew at maximum speed in a straight line so 

that stitches lie over doffed line. 

Stop with needle in down position when the 

apprentice reaches the square. 

Make sure the stitches do not leave the 

square. 

Lift the foot and turn the paper 90° clockwise. 

Lower machines foot and sew towards next 

square. 

Stop with needle in down position when the 

apprentice reaches square. 


Sew at maximum speed in a straight line so 

that stitches lie over dotted line and stop 

when the last 

square is reached. 

Lift foot and place paper to start second cycle 



Lower machines foot. 

stop chronometer when the machine’s foot is 

lowered 

Note: Each cycle contains 3 lines and 2 90° turns. 

SECURITY 



use glasses. -] 

Avoid using lo6se clothing and/or long and loose hair. 

QUALITY 


Make turns with needle at down position and within 


Illustration: 


Paper exercise:4 

Page | 39

square 

limits. 

1/16’ Misalignment with dotted line. 

ERGONOMICS 





WASTE 


ABILITIES DEVELOPED 

Exact Stops 

Straight stitches at maximum velocity. 

Use of push button to control machines foot. 

NECESSARY MATERIALS 



Page | 40

STOP 

E. Sewing Curve with One Hand 


Page | 41 

START

Machine: SNLS 

Exercise : Sewing Curve with One Hand 



both feet on the pedal the right knee against the knee lift. 


Methodology: 

Security: 


Place paper under the machine so that the line lies 

directly under the needle. 

Sew at maximum speed following the curved line 

using only the LH on the paper, turning the wrist. 

Stop at the end of the line with the needle on the 

top position. 

Slide the paper with the LH while the machine foot 

is at the uppermost position. 


directly under the needle to start the second cycle. 

The chronometer is stopped when the apprentice is 

set for the next cycle. 



Use glasses. 


Quality: 


Maintain margin at +/-1/16" with respect to line. 

Sew without stopping. 

Goal: 6 seconds 

Illustration: 



Page | 42

Ergonomics: 





Waste: 


Abilities Developed: 

Sewing curved lines at a constant margin. 

Changing direction without stopping. 


Necessary Materials: 



Page | 43

F. Sewing in Circles 


START STOP 

Page | 44

Machine: SNLS 

Exercise : Sewing in Circles 





Methodology: 

Security 




Sew at maximum speed following the curved line 

without stopping, turning the paper to form an 

eight. 

Use index fingers to pivot paper. 

stop at the end with the needle on the top position. 

Turn and slide the paper while the machine foot is 

at the uppermost position towards the next cycle. 



The chronometer is stopped when the apprentice is 

set for the next cycle. 

Hold the, paper with the thumb under the paper. 


Use glasses. 


Quality 


Maintain margin at ÷/-l/16” with respect to line. 


Ergonomics 




Goal: 14 seconds Exercise Number : 

Illustration: 


Page | 45


Waste 





Use of push button to control machine foot. 

Necessary 



Page | 46

G. Judging changes of direction 


Page | 47

Machine: SNLS 

Exercise : Judging changes of direction. 

Starting Position: The apprentice should sit facing the sewing 

machine with both feet on the pedal and the right knee against 

the knee lift. Paper in starting position. No thread in machine. 

Methodology: 


Place paper under the machine so that the dotted line 

lies directly under the needle. 

Sew at maximum speed in a V- shape line so that 

stitches lie over doffed line. 

Stop with needle in down position when the apprentice 

reaches the V- shape. 

Make sure the stitches do not leave the V- shape. 


Lower machines foot and sew towards next V- shape . 

Stop with needle in down position when the apprentice 

reaches V- shape . 


Sew at maximum speed in a straight line so that stitches 

lie over dotted line and stop when the last 

V- shape is reached. 

Lift foot and place paper to start second cycle 

Place paper under the machine so that the dotted line 


Lower machines foot. 

stop chronometer when the machine’s foot is lowered 

Note: Each cycle contains 8 lines and 7 60° turns. 

Security 



use glasses. -] 

Avoid using lo6se clothing and/or long and loose hair. 

Quality 


Make turns with needle at down position and within square 

limits. 

1/16’ Misalignment with dotted line. 

Ergonomics 


Goal: 20 

Seconds 

Illustration: 



Page | 48




Waste 



Exact Stops 

Straight stitches at maximum velocity. 





Page | 49

H. Sewing curves 


Page | 50

Machine: SNLS 

Exercise : Sewing curves 






Methodology: 

Security 


Place paper under the machine so that the line 


Sew at maximum speed following the curved 

line without stopping. 

Use index fingers to pivot paper. 

Stop at the end with the needle on the top 

position.. 



The chronometer is stopped when the 

apprentice is set for the next curve. 

Hold the, paper with the thumb under the paper. 


Use glasses. 


Quality 


Maintain margin at ÷/-l/16” with respect to line. 


Ergonomics 






Illustration: 



Page | 51

Waste 





Use of push button to control machine foot. 

Necessary materials 



Page | 52

I. O / L Sewing straight line 

MACHINE: O/L EXERCISE – 9 DURATION: 10 SECS 

Page | 53

Machine: O / L 

Exercise : O / L Sewing straight line 



left feet on the pedal and the right feet on the lifter. Paper 

in starting position. No thread in machine. 

Methodology: 

Security 



lies directly under the pressure foot. 


boundaries. 

Stop with the pedal at the end of the rectangle 

with the needle at the top position. 



second line lies directly under the pressure foot. 


boundaries. 


reached the end of the rectangle, keeping the 

needle in the 

top position. 


third dotted line lies directly under the needle. 





Use glasses. 


Quality 



Boundaries. 

Ergonomics 


Left feet on pedal & right feet on lifter. 



Illustration: 



Page | 54


Waste 



Exact Stops 





O / L without thread 


Page | 55

J. O / L Exact stop 


Page | 56

Machine: O / L 

Exercise : O / L Exact stop 



left feet on the pedal and the right feet on the lifter. 


Methodology: 

Security 



lies directly under the pressure foot. 

Sew at maximum speed in a line within 

boundaries. 

Stop with the pedal at the end of the straight 

line with the needle and turn to 120° and stitch 

correspondingly.. 

Make sure the stitches do not leave the 

rectangle. 

Lift the machine’s foot and slide paper so that 

the second line lies directly under the pressure 

foot. 


reached the end of the line, keeping in the top 

position. 

Lift the machine’s foot and slide paper so that 

the third dotted line lies directly under the 

pressure foot. 





Use glasses. 


Quality 

Do not tear paper inside of the lines.. 


Boundaries. 

Ergonomics 






Illustration: 



Page | 57

Waste 



Exact Stops 

Straight stitches at maximum velocity centered 

at 118” margin. 





Page | 58

K. Sewing curves 


Page | 59

Machine: SNLS 

Exercise : Sewing curves 


The apprentice should sit facing the sewing machine with left 

feet on the pedal and the right feet on the lifter. Paper in 

starting position. No thread in machine. 

Methodology: 

Security 



directly under the pressure foot. 

Sew at maximum speed in a line within boundaries. 

Stop with the pedal at the end of the straight line 

with the needle and turn to 120° and stitch 

correspondingly.. 



second line lies directly under the pressure foot. 


reached the end of the line, keeping in the top 

position. 


third dotted line lies directly under the pressure 

foot. 





Use glasses. 


Quality 

Do not tear paper inside of the lines.. 


Boundaries. 

Ergonomics 






Illustration: 



Page | 60

Waste 



Exact Stops 







Page | 61

2. THREADING OF MACHINE (Single needle lock stitch machine) 

Page | 62

A. Thread the Machine and Draw up the Bobbin Thread 

1. Turn the machine off and remove your feet from the treadle. If there is no needle in the 

machine, run the machine out. Then insert a new needle. Check to be sure there is no lint or 

dust between the tensions discs or in the thread guide. 

2. Raise the thread take-up lever to its highest point. 

3. Place the thread on the thread stand. Then pass the thread over the guide at the top of the 

thread stand and through the hole in the spool pin(s). 

4. Guide the thread into the right (or top) hole of the needle-thread retainer. Then, guide it 

through the center hole and, finally the bottom (or left) hole. 

5. Guide the thread between the tension discs. Pull it into the check spring and under the slack 

thread retainer or vertical bar. 

6. Guide the thread from right to left into the eye of the take-up lever. 

7. Guide the thread through the remaining guides. The last thread guide is located directly 

above the long groove on the needle. 

8. Trim the thread end as needed and thread it into the eye of the needle from left to right. 

Note: The thread always threads from the long eye or groove on one side of the needle to 

the short eye on the other 

9. Pull the thread end about 3” (15cm) and hold the thread loosely in your left band. 

10. Release the brake and turn the hand wheel so that the needle moves down and up again to 

catch the bobbin thread. If the thread doesn’t come up, check the machine threading. 

Remove the bobbin case, rethread, and insert again 

Note: If you continue to turn the hand wheel, you may create a thread jam. 

11. Pull the needle thread taut to bring the bobbin thread up through the needle hole. 

12. Pull both threads between the prongs or toes of the foot, and then under the presser foot to 

the back of the machine leaving a 5” (15cm) tail. 

13. Draw the thread path for a lockstitch machine. 

Page | 63

B. Threading the bobbin case 

1. Removing the bobbin case 

Raise the bobbin case latch to remove the bobbin case 

2. Threading the bobbin case 

Pass the thread through the slit 1 in the bobbin case and route it under tension 

spring 2 

Hold the large of the bobbin case and set the bobbin case into the hook. 

Place the bobbin in the case taking care of the winding direction of the thread.(The 

bobbin should turn in the direction of arrow B when the thread is pulled in the 

direction of arrow A) 

Page | 64

C. Bobbin winding 

1) Route the thread in the order of A, B, and C, and then wind it round the bobbin several times. 

2) Set bobbin presser 1 down to make the winder come in contact with the belt. 

3) Adjust adjustment screw 2 of the amount of bobbin thread to be wound round the bobbin so that 

the 

bobbin is wound with thread about 80%.Turn the adjustment screw 2 clockwise to increase the 

bobbin 

thread amount or counterclockwise to decrease it. 

4) If thread is wound unevenly, move winder tension adjust base 3 to the right or left until it is 

correctly 

positioned. 

5) The moment the bobbin has been wound up, the bobbin presser is released, and the bobbin 

winder will 

stop automatically. 

Page | 65

3. FABRIC EXERCISES 

TRAINING OF SEWING MACHINE OPERATORS 

Page | 66

A. Sewing 6”x 6” Sewing off the material 

MACHINE: SNLS EXERCISE: SEW 6” X 6”, SEWING OFF 

6” 

6” X 6” 

Seam Type 

DURATION: 15 SECS 

Page | 67 

6”

Machine: SNLS 

Exercise: Sewing 6”x 6” Sewing off the material. 



Both feet on the pedal and the right knee against the knee lift. 

Place material close to the apprentice. 

Methodology: 

Security 


Take fabric with LH and scissors with RH 

simultaneously. 

Move fabric to the front, and lift machine toot. 

Place fabric under foot and up to guide at a 1/4" 

margin. 

Sew at maximum speed until the first edge, 

respecting the margin of 1/4". 

Stop when fabric leaves the machine and cut threads. 

Lift machine foot and turn fabric counterclockwise, 

Place fabric under foot and up to guide at a 1/4” 

margin. 

Lower machine foot. 

Sew at maximum speed until the second edge, 

respecting the margin of V.. 


Lift machine foot. 


margin. 


Sew at maximum speed until the third edge, 

respecting the margin of 1/4" 


Lift machine foot and tum cloth counterclockwise. 


margin. 


Sew at maximum speed until the fourth edge, 

respecting the margin 1/4" 


Take fabric with LH and scissors with RH and cut 

threads. 

The apprentice must be careful not to prick himself with 

The needle. 

Quality 

Maintain a margin of 1/4” (+-1/16). 

Ergonomics 

chair and Machine at a comfortable height. Back rest facing 

Goal:15 Seconds Exercise Number : 

Illustration: 

Fabric Exercise #1 

Page | 68

forward. 

Waste 

Use fabric various times while practicing. 

Abilities Developed 

Sewing in a straight line at maximum speed. 

Pedal control. 

Consistency in margins. 

Necessary Materials 

SNLS 

2 thread cone 

2 bobbins. 

6” x 6” fabric 

Scissors 

Page | 69

B. Sewing 6”x 6” Staying Within Material 

MACHINE: SNLS 

EXERCISE: SEW 6” X 6”, STAYING WITH IN 

6 

Seam Type 

6” X 6” 

DURATION: 18 SECS 

Page | 70 

6”

Machine: SNLS 

Exercise : Sewing 6”x 6” Staying Within Material 


The apprentice should sit facing the sewing machine with both 

feet on the pedal and the right knee against the knee lift, Place 

fabric close to the apprentice. 

Methodology: 

Security 


Take fabric with LH and scissors with RH 


Move fabric to the front, and lift machine foot. Place 

fabric under foot and up to guide at a ¼” margin. 

Lower machine foot, 

Sew at maximum speed until the first edge, respecting 

the margin of ¼” (+-1/16). 

Stop with the needle at the lowest position exactly 

1/4” from the edge. 

Lift machine foot and turn fabric counterclockwise. 



respecting the margin of 1/4“ (+-1/16”). 

Stop with the needle at the lowest position exactly ¼” 

from the edge. 

Lift machine foot and turn fabric counterclockwise, 



respecting the margin of ¼”(+-1/16”). 

stop with the needle at the lowest position exactly %“ 

from the edge, 

Lift machine foot and turn cloth counterclockwise, 


Sew at maximum speed until the fourth edge, 

respecting the margin of ¼” (+-1/16”) 



threads, 

Timekeeper stops the chronometer. 


the needle. 

Quality 


Ergonomics 

chair and Machineat a comfortable height. Back rest facing 

forward. 

Goal: 18 Seconds Exercise Number : 

Illustration: 


Page | 71

Waste 






Exact stops. 


SNLS 

2 thread cone 

2 bobbins. 


Scissors 

Page | 72

C. Sewing 6 x 6 back tack 

MACHINE: SNLS EXERCISE: SEW 6” X 6”, BACKTACK DURATION: 21 SECS 

6” 

Seam Type 

Page | 73 

6”

Machine: SNLS 

Exercise : Sewing 6 x 6 back tack 


Sit straight with two feet on the treadle. Keep the trimmer so 

as to access easily. 

Methodology: 

Security 

Pick two pieces of the fabrics one with each hand. 

Align the fabric while moving to the needle. 

Place the fabric under the needle! 1/4” from its top & 

1/4” from its side. Start sewing, with back tack 

Stop sewing at 1/4” from the bottom edge with 

needle down. Turn the fabric CCW 90 deg & start 

sewing in the same way for next 3 sides. 

When sewing the 4th side! Stop where the stitch has 

started & back tack (3 to 4 stitches). 

Keep away fingers from the needle. 

Quality 

Perfect alignment & regular stitch margin of 1/4’ Sharp corners. 

Number of back tack stitches. Avoid fullness. 

Ergonomics 

Keep two bundles one on each side of the body. 

Waste 


Completely set SNLS machine.6 x 6 fabric pieces. 


Illustration: 


Page | 74


SNLS 

2 Thread cone 

2 Bobbins 


scissors 

Page | 75

D. Sew Over 3 Sides 6”x 12” 

MACHINE: SNLS EXERCISE: SEW 3 SIDES 6” X 12” DURATION: 21 SECS 

6” 

Seam Type 

Page | 76 

12”

Machine: SNLS 

Exercise : Sew Over 3 Sides 6”x 12” 




fabric close to the operator. 

Methodology: 

Security 


Take corners of fabric with both hands. 

Lift machine root. 

Place fabric under foot and up to guide at a ¼” 

margin. 


Sew at maximum speed until the first edge, respecting 

the margin of ¼” (+-1/16”)). 

Stop with the needle at the lowest position exactly ¼” 


Lift machine foot and turn fabric counterclockwise 

with LH. 



respecting the margin of ¼” (+-1/16”) 

Stop with the needle at the lowest position exactly 

1/4” from the edge. 

Lift machine foot and turn fabric counterclockwise. 



respecting the margin of’ 1/4” (+.l/16”). 



threads. 



the needle. 

Use safety glasses. 


Quality 


Ergonomics 


forward. 

Goal:14 Seconds Exercise Number : 

Illustration: 


Page | 77

Waste 






Exact stops. 

Joining and handling of large pieces 


SNLS 

2 thread cone 

2 bobbins. 


Scissors 

Page | 78

E. 12 X 6 Top stitch 

MACHINE: SNLS EXERCISE: 6” X 12” TOP STITCH DURATION: 14 SECS 

6” 

Seam Type 

Page | 79 

12”

Machine: SNLS 

Exercise : 12 X 6 Top stitch 


With both legs on treadle, pressure foot up. 

Methodology: 

Security 

Pick up the fabric from the side at the corners facing 

towards you with both hands. 

Keep RH side open corner near (under) the needle 

make sure of the stitch margin (1/4”) using the scale 

near needle. Put presser foot down. 

Start sewing maintaining straight line & stitch margin. 

Stop the needle at 1/4” from both sides. At that time 

needle should be down . Turn the fabric 90 Degrees 

anticlockwise. Start sewing st line and margin of 1/4”. 

Keeping needle down at that point , turn fabric 90 deg 

anticlockwise and sew off maintaining st. line and 

margin Lift the presser foot with knee lift and pull the 

fabric with left hand. Take the trimmer with RH and 

cut the thread. Time starts right from picking to the 

cutting of the thread. No back tack 

When placing the fabric under needle, needle should be up. 

Quality 

Alignment should be proper; stitch should be straight; stitch 

margin of 1/4”. 

Ergonomics 

. Trimmers should be small but easy to handle and operate. 

Waste 

While cutting the thread don’t pull more thread. 


Alignment of parts; 

Maintaining the margin without the help of guides 

Stopping the machine where ever we want with 

needle down. 

Hands and eye coordination for faster turning of parts. 


Illustration: 


Page | 80


12x12 Fabric 

Trimmer. 

Page | 81

F. Backtack 6”x 1`2” 

MACHINE: SNLS 

6” 

EXERCISE: BACKTACK 12” X 12” 

Seam Type 

DURATION: 20SECS 

Page | 82 

12”

Machine: SNLS 

Exercise : Backtack 6”x 1`2” 


Place the fabric on your lap, pick up using both hands, let 

both feet be on the treadle. 

Methodology: 

Security 

This exercise is carried on the fabric which comes 

from the exercise 12x6 top stitch. 

Initial markings have to be done on the fabric for 

backtacking. 

For this fold the given fabric, such that both edges 

coincide and crease at the center. Now fold on 

the folded fabric, such 

that edges coincides & crease. 

When the folded fabric is opened, it looks as 

indicated in sketch[2]. 

Now you see three crease lines at A.B,C. Mark 

3/8” above and creased line.(A).Repeat above 

said step for ‘B’ and c. 

The fabric is ready for backtacking. 

Places at which back tacking have to be carried 

out are indicated in sketch 4. 

Backtack at point-I and sew tilt pcint-2 and at 

potnt-2 backtack and sew till -3 and at point-4 

backtack and sew till point-5 backtack & stop. 

Now the fabric should be as shown in sketch (5J. 

At point-5 stop and cut the thread using clipper 

and dispose. 


the needle. 



Quality 

Line sewn should be straight and length of backtacking 

should be within the boundary with an allowance of one 

stitch on either side, i.e. half a stitch outside or inside the 

band is ok, no more 

Ergonomics 


forward. 

Waste 



Illustration: 


Page | 83




Cutting, Disposing and Stacking. 

Exact stops. 

Backtacking only within the boundary marked 


SNLS 

Thread 

Bobbin 


Scissors 

Page | 84

G. Baste 6” X 6” in Chain 

MACHINE: SNLS EXERCISE: HEMMING 6 7/8” X 6”, INCHAIN DURATION: 18SECS 

5 1/2” 

5” 

Seam Type 

Page | 85

Machine: SNLS 

Exercise : Baste 6” X 6” in Chain 




fabric close to the operator. 

Methodology: 


Take fabric with LH. 

Fold fabric lightly on one side. 

Move towards machine foot. 

Lift machine foot. 

Verify the fold is ½”. 

Place fabric under foot and up to guide at a ¼” margin. 


Sew fabric with rhythm guiding it with the RH while the LH 

takes another fabric. 

Repeat the previous instructions until 5 pieces are sewn. 

Take fabric with LH and scissors with RH and cut threads. 


Security 


The needle. 



Quality 

Maintain a margin of ¼” (+-1/16”) 

Ergonomics 

Chair and Machine at a comfortable height. Back rest facing 

forward. 

Waste 



Illustration: 


Page | 86




• Consistency in margins. 

• Exact stops. 

• Joining and handling of large pieces 


SNLS 

2 Thread cone 

2 Bobbins 


Scissors 

Page | 87

CHAPTER - V 

MEASUREMENTS AND SIZE CHART 

Page | 88

1. CIRCUMFERENCE MEASUREMENTS 

GRADE: 1" 1" 1 1/2" 1 1/2" 1 1/2" 2" 

SIZE: 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 

1 Bust: 34 35 36 37 1/2 39 40 1/2 42 1/2 

2 Waist; 24 25 26 27 1/2 29 30 1/2 32 1/2 

3 Abdomen: 32 1/2 33 1/2 34 1/2 36 37 1/2 39 41 

4 Hip: 35 1/2 36 1/2 37 1/2 39 40 1/2 42 44 

UPPER TORSO (bodice): 

5 Center length: 

Front 14 1/2 14 3/4 15 15 1/4 15 1/2 15 3/4 16 

Back 16 3/4 17 17 1/4 17 1/2 17 3/4 18 18 1/4 

6 Full length: 

Front 17 17 3/8 17 3/4 18 1/8 18 1/2 18 7/8 19 1/4 

Back 17 1/4 17 5/8 18 18 3/8 18 3/4 19 1/8 19 1/2 

7 Shoulder slope: 

8 Strap: 

Front 16 1/2 17 17 1/4 17 4/5 18 1/4 18 2/3 19 1/8 

Back 16 1/4 16 2/3 17 1/8 17 4/7 18 18 4/9 18 7/8 

Front 9 1/2 9 3/4 10 10 3/8 10 3/4 11 1/8 11 5/8 

9 Bust depth: 9 9 1/8 9 1/4 9 3/8 9 1/2 9 5/8 10 

Bust radius 2 3/4 2 7/8 3 3 1/8 3 1/4 3 3/8 3 ¾ 

10 Bust span: 3 1/2 3 5/8 3 3/4 3 7/8 4 4 1/8 4 ¼ 

11 Side length: 8 1/4 8 3/8 8 1/2 8 5/8 8 3/4 8 7/8 9 

12 Back neck: 2 3/4 2 7/8 3 3 1/8 3 1/4 3 3/8 3 ½ 

13 Shoulder length: 5 1/8 5 1/5 5 1/4 5 3/8 5 1/2 5 5/8 5 4/5 

14 Across shoulder: 

Front 7 1/4 7 3/8 7 1/2 7 2/3 7 7/8 8 8 1/3 

Back 7 3/8 7 1/2 7 5/8 7 4/5 8 8 1/5 8 4/9 

15 Across chest: 6 61/4 6 3/8 6 4/7 6 3/4 7 7 1/5 

16 Across back: 6 3/4 6 7/8 7 7 1/5 7 3/8 7 4/7 7 4/5 

17 Bust arc: 9 1/4 9 1/2 9 3/4 10 1/8 10 1/2 10 7/8 11 3/8 

18 Back arc: 8 1/2 8 3/4 9 9 3/8 9 3/4 10 1/8 10 5/8 

19 Waist arc: 

Front 6 1/4 6 1/2 6 3/4 7 1/8 7 1/2 7 7/8 8 3/8 

Back 5 3/4 6 6 1/4 6 5/8 7 7 3/8 7 7/8 

20 Dart placement: 3 3 1/8 3 1/4 3 3/8 3 1/2 3 5/8 3 ¾ 

LOWER TORSO (Skirt/Pant): 

21 Abdominal arc: 

Front 8 1/4 8 1/2 8 3/4 9 1/8 9 1/2 9 7/8 10 3/8 

Back 7 1/2 7 3/4 8 8 3/8 8 3/4 9 1/8 9 5/8 

22 Hip arc: 

Front 8 1/2 8 3/4 9 9 1/4 9 1/2 10 1/8 10 5/8 

Back 9 9 1/4 9 1/2 9 7/8 10 1/4 10 5/8 11 1/8 

23 Crotch depth: 9 1/2 9 3/4 10 10 1/4 10 1/2 10 3/4 11 

24 Hip depth: 

Center front 8 1/2 8 3/4 9 9 1/4 9 1/2 9 3/4 10 

Center back 8 1/4 8 1/2 8 3/4 9 9 1/4 9 1/2 9 ¾ 

25 Side hip depth: 8 3/4 9 9 1/4 9 1/2 93/4 10 10 ¼ 

26 Waist to ankle: 37 37 1/2 38 38 1/2 39 39 1/2 40 

Waist to Floor: 39 39 1/2 

40 40 41 1/2 42 

Waist to Knee: 22 1/2 22 5/8 23 23 3/8 23 3/4 24 1/8 24 ½ 

27 Crotch Length 24 1/2 25 1/4 26 26 3/4 27 1/2 28 1/4 29 

Vertical Trunk 60 61 62 63 1/2 65 66 1/2 68 ½ 

Page | 89

28 Upper Thigh 19 1/2 20 1/4 21 22 23 24 25 ¼ 

Mid Thigh 17 17 1/2 18 18 3/4 19 1/2 20 1/4 21 ¼ 

29 Knee 13 13 1/2 14 14 1/2 15 15 1/2 16 

30 Calf 11 11 1/2 12 12 1/2 13 13 1/2 14 

31 Ankle 9 1/2 9 3/4 10 10 1/4 10 1/2 10 3/4 11 

2. STANDARD MEASUREMENT FOR CHILDREN 

AGE GROUP CHEAST WAIST 

WAIST 

LENGTH 

ACROSS 

BACK 

SHORT 

SLEEVE 

LONG 

SLEEVE 

FULL 

LENGTH 

3-9 

MOUNTHS 19'' 19'' 6'' 8'' 2 3/4'' 6 1/2'' 14'' 18'' 

1YEARS 20'' 19''-20'' 7'' 8 1/2'' 3'' 7'' 16'' 20'' 

2YEARS 21'' 20''-21'' 8'' 8 3/4'' 3 1/4'' 8'' 16'' 22'' 

3YEARS 22'' 21'' 9'' 9'' 3 1/2'' 8 3/4'' 20'' 24'' 

4YEARS 23'' 22'' 9 1/2'' 9 1/2'' 4'' 9 1/2'' 20 1/2'' 25'' 

5YEARS 24'' 23'' 10'' 10'' 4 1/2'' 11'' 22'' 26 1/2'' 

6YEARS 24 1/2'' 24 1/2'' 10 1/2'' 10 1/2'' 4 3/4'' 11 1/2'' 22 1/2'' 27'' 

7YEARS 25'' 25'' 11'' 11'' 5'' 12'' 23-24'' 27 1/2'' 

8YEARS 26'' 25'' 11 1/2'' 11 1/2'' 5 1/2'' 12 1/2'' 24 1/2'' 28'' 

9YEARS 27'' 25'' 12'' 12'' 6'' 13'' 26 1/2'' 28 1/0'' 

10 YEARS 28'' 26'' 12 1/2'' 12 1/2'' 6 1/2'' 13 1/2'' 26 1/2-27 '' 29'' 

11YEARS 28'' 28 1/2'' 13'' 13'' 7'' 14'' 27'' 30'' 

3. STANDARD MEASUREMENT FOR TEENAGERS 

AGE 

GROUP 

12-13YEARS 14-15 YEARS 16-17 YEARS 18-19 YEARS 

CHEAST 30'' 32'' 34'' 35'' 

WAIST 24'' 25'' 25 1/2'' 26'' 

CENTER 

BACK 

WAIST 

LENGTH 

12 1/2'' 13'' 13 1/2'' 14'' 

12 1/2'' 13 1/2'' 14 1/2'' 15'' 

HIP 32'' 34'' 36'' 37'' 

SLEEVE 

LENGTH 

16 1/2'' 17'' 17 1/2'' 18'' 

Page | 90 

HIP

CHAPTER - VI 

MACHINE MAINTAINANCE & SAFETY PRECAUTIONS 

Page | 91

A. Safety- Rules 

Safety is important to everyone and it is your responsibility to maintain a safe working place. 

To maintain a safe environment, learn these safety rules and practice them at all times. 

When in doubt, ask the instructor 

Report any injuries or accidents immediately to the instructor. 

Report a breakage to a tool or machine to the instructor. If the equipment does not operate 

properly, notify the instructor immediately. 

Wipe up any oil specified on the floor immediately to prevent anyone from slipping. 

Keep aisles clear at all times. 

Operate only the machines you have been trained to operate. 

Operate machine. only when the instructor or laboratory assistant is present. 

Operate machines only with permission. 

Always inspect the machine before starting to work. Be sure it is clean and threaded 

correctly, with no loose threads on the pulley belt and all guards in place. 

Make only adjustments you have been trained to perform. Otherwise, as the instructor. 

When sewing on a power machine, wear low shoes and close-fitting clothing. Avoid loose 

fitting sleeves, sweaters, jewelry, ties, and ribbons when operating the machine. If your hair 

is long, tie it back. 

Always practice proper posture to reduce fatigue, help prevent accidents and increase 

efficiency. If possible, adjust the chair height 5) that your feet rest flat on the floor. 

Do not I your chair forward or toward while operate he machine. 

Use both hands to raise and lower the machine head. 

Always keep your head above the table. 

Keep your feet off the treadle when you are setting or threading the needle. 

Turn the motor off before you are not stitching. 

Turn the motor off before cleaning, Oiling or adjusting the machine. 

Page | 92

Turn the motor off before removing or replacing the pulley belt and run the machine out. 

Waft until all motion has stopped. 

Turn the motor off in case of an emergency or when in doubt. 

Turn the motor off before unplugging the machine. 

When unplugging the machine, hold onto the plug, not the cord. 

Do not use your hand to stop and start the hand wheel. 

Use your hand only to set the hand wheel. 

Before operating the machine, close the slide bed cover. 

Before operating the machine, be sure the needle is properly set and the bobbin is properly 

placed. 

When operating the machine, do not be careless~ 

When operating the machine, do not talk with your colleagues. 

When operating the machine, keep your attention on your work and hands. 

When operating the machine, keep your hands at a safe distance from the needle. 

When operating the machine, keep your hands, scissors, and other sharp objects away from 

the belt. 

Keep the machine and work station clean with an tools in the side drawer. 

Use the proper needle for the job. 

Do not stitch over pins or put them in your mouth. 

When the machine is not in use, lower the foot and needle. 

Three-way plugs are a safety feature on the machines. Do not cut off the ground prong. 

Unplug the machine at the end of the day. 

Know the location of the main power switch, outlets, and fuses in case of an emergency. 

Do not remove any safety devices from the machines. 

Turn off the iron at the of the class. 

Always place the iron on the iron pad to avoid scorching the ironing board cover. 

Always place the industrial iron flat on the iron pad to avoid knocking it over. 

Page | 93

When trimming or cutting, put all trimmings in the wastebasket. 

Scissors should be handed to another person with the handles toward the person. 

Never toss or throw scissors or equipment. 

Do not eat, drink, or smoke in the work area. 

B. Important safety instructions 

Putting sewing systems into operation is prohibited until it has been ascertained that the sewing 

systems in which these sewing machines will be built into, have conformed with the safety 

regulations in your country. 

Technical service for those sewing systems is also prohibited. 

Observe the basic safety measures, including, but not limited to the following ones, 

whenever you use the machine. 

Read all the instructions, including, but not limited to this Instruction Manual before you use 

the machine. 

In addition, keep this Instruction Manual so that you may read it at anytime when necessary. 

Use the machine after it has been ascertained that it conforms with safety rules/standards 

valid in your Country. 

All safety devices must be in position when the machine is ready for work or in operation. 

The operation without the specified safety devices is not allowed. 

This machine shall be operated by appropriately-trained operators. 

For your personal protection, we recommend that you wear safety glasses. 

For the following, turn off the power switch or disconnect the power plug of the machine 

from the receptacle. 

For threading needle(s), looper, spreader etc. and replacing bobbin. 

For replacing part(s) of needle, presser foot, throat plate, looper, spreader, feed dog, needle 

guard, folder, cloth guide etc. 

For repair work. 

When leaving the working place or when the working place is unattended. 

When using clutch motors without applying brake, it has to be waited until the motor 

stopped totally. 

If you should allow oil, grease, etc. used with the machine and devices to come in contact 

with your eyes or 

Page | 94

skin or swallow any of such liquid by mistake, immediately wash the contacted areas and 

consult a medical doctor. 

Tampering with the live parts and devices, regardless of whether the machine is powered, is 

prohibited. 

Repair, remodeling and adjustment works must only be done by appropriately trained 

technicians or 

General maintenance and inspection works have to be done by appropriately trained 

personnel. 

Page | 95

C. Machine adjustments and control 

Adjusting the Stitch Length Regulator 

The stitch length regulator controls the distance that the feed dogs move the material to the 

back of the machine to make a single stitch. On newer machines, the stitch length regulator is often 

a large knob or a lever on the front of the machine, making It easy to regulate. On older machines 

however, the stitch length regulator is more difficult to locate and reset and ft rarely has a guide 

indicating the setting. 

On most newer machines, the length of each stitch is Indicated In millimeters (mm). On 

other machines, the number of stitches per inch(SPI) is Indicated. This latter method is easier to use 

when adjusting the stitch length regulator. 

These general directions can be used for most machines, however, when a machine manual 

is available, ft is always wise to review the directions in it. 

1. Begin with the power switch on arid the machine unthreaded. Place a piece of paper under 

the foot and stitch a straight line about 3” long. 

2. Remove the paper from the machine. Mark off 2”(5cm), placing the first mark midway 

between two needle perforations. Begriming at the first perforation following the first mark, 

count the number of perforations between the two marks. If the second line is between two 

perforations, add an additional perforation. 

3. To determine the number of stitches per inch (SPI), divide the number of perforations by 

two - the number of inches stitched. There are 20 perforations between the two marks, 

there are 10 SPI. 

4. To determine the number of stitches per centimeter (SPO), divide by five - the number of 

centimeters stitched. If there are 20 perforations between the two lines, there are 4 SPC. 

5. To determine the number of millimeters in a stitch, divide the number of millimeters in a 

stitch, divide the number of millimeters (10) In a centimeter by the number of SPO 

(stitches/cm). If there are 4 SPC, each stitch Is 2.5mm (4 divided by 10) long. 

6. Set the stitch length to 2.5mm or 1OSPL. Stitch 3”. Mark off a 2” section, then count the 

stitches to confirm the accuracy of the setting. Repeat to set the stitch length to 1.5mm (17 

SPI), 2 (12 SPI). 3mm (8.8SPI), and 4 mm (6 SPI). Record your measurements In Table. 

1” No. of stitches/ inch = 8 

Page | 96

Stitch Length Measurements 

Machine 

Stitch length 

Setting 

301 1mm 

301 1.5mm 

301 2mm 

301 2.5mm 

301 3mm 

301 4mm 

Testing the tension 

No. of Stitches 

per inch 

For most stitching, a balance tension or balanced stitch is 

desired. When the tension is balanced, the threads interlock in the middle 

of the material to make a perfect or balanced stitch. The seam is flat and 

elastic without being loose, and there is no seam grin when the seam is 

stressed. 

Balanced Tension Tight upper tension Tight lower tension 

If there is too much pressure on the tension discs, not enough thread is fed into the stitching and the 

tension is right. The material puckers the seam is strained, and the stitches break. If there is too little 

pressure, too much thread is fed, the tension is too loose, and the seam is loose and weak. 

When the tension on the top, or needle, thread is too tight or the tension on the bottom or bobbin 

thread is too loose, the top thread lies along the surface of the material and the bobbin thread forms 

loops on the top. 

Page | 97

When the tension on the top, or needle, thread is too loose or the bottom, or bobbin, thread is too 

tight, the bottom thread lies along the underside of the material and the top thread forms loops on 

the underside. 

Adjusting the tension 

The tension of the stitch is regulated by two controls: the upper tension regulator and the bobbin 

case tension screw. The upper tension regulator is located on the front of the machine and adjusts 

the tension discs. 

The bobbin case tension screw, which is located on the bobbin case controls the tightness of the 

bobbin case spring. These controls increase or decrease the amount of pressure on the threads as 

they fed through the machine. 

Because the structure, texture, thickness, density, and resiliency of the material and the size and 

type of the thread affect the tension, the tension settings will vary with the material and the thread 

size and type. Test the tension before beginning a garment or sewing with a different fabric, thread, 

or machine. 

1. Identity the upper tension regulator and the bobbin case tension screw. 

2. Set the stitch length for 2 mm (128P1). Turn the upper tension regulator to the right 1/4 to 

1/2 turn. 

3. Fold one muslin rectangle in half crosswise and stitch on the straight grain about 1/2” from 

the edge. 

4. Examine the stitching to determine whether the stitching is balanced or unbalanced. If the 

needle tension is tight the needle thread lies flat on the top ply and loops of the bobbin 

Page | 98

thread are visible, If the bobbin tension Is tight, the bobbin thread lies flat and the loops of 

the needle thread are visible. 

5. Adjust the bobbin tension first. To determine if it needs an adjustment, place the filled 

bobbin In the bobbin case. Hold the end of the bobbin thread and jerk the thread slightly. It 

should drop several Inches. If it slides freely down the thread, it needs more tension; if 

doesn’t slide, it needs less. 

a. If it needs an adjustment, use a small screwdriver to loosen the screw on the bobbin 

case. For more tension, turn the screw in small increments and no more than 1/4 

turn between tests. 

b. Caution: The bobbin case screw is very short and will fall out if turned too far. 

6. To adjust the needle thread tension turn the tension regulator to the left to loosen it; turn it 

to the right to tighten. 

7. Adjust the tensions only as needed until the stitch is balanced. 

8. Experiment with stitching on a variety of fabrics. 

Machine Maintenance 

In the apparel industry, a clean, well-oiled machine is essential for safety and good performance, the 

same is true in the classroom. Generally cleanliness is the responsibility of the operators, including 

students who use the machines. The machines are given a quick cleaning after every eight hours of 

operation and a thorough cleaning once a week. When sewing materials that produce a lot of lint, 

the machines are cleaned more frequently. 

Machine maintenance is also important in preventing stitching faults. Although stitching faults can 

be caused by the material, machine, or operator, most can be corrected by cleaning the machine, rethreading 

it, and/or changing the needle. 

In most plants, a quick cleaning is done by the operators once a day, but the responsibility for the 

more thorough cleaning varies from plant to plant. In some factories, it is done by the operators on 

Friday afternoon. In others, it is done by a mechanic - often, when the operators are not working. 

Cleaning the Machine 

When cleaning the machine, clean everything - the machine mechanism, machine table and stand, 

your tools, work station area, and even your hands - to avoid soiling the materials being sewn, 

prevent accidents, and avoid wear and damage to the machine. 

These directions focus on the lockstitch machine, but they can easily be adapted for other machine 

types. 

Materials/Supplies 

Paint brush (1/2” wide) 

Clear disposable cloth or clean rag 

Screwdriver 

Sewing machine manual (when available) 

Page | 99

Air hose or industrial vacuum cleaner (when available) 

Caution: Before cleaning any machine, turn off the machine and run it out. 

1. Open the slide and remove the bobbin case, and then remove the throat plate. Occasionally 

remove the face plate from the left end of the head. 

2. Brush or blow away any lint, dust, or loose threads in the area around the feed dogs and 

rotary hook or shuttle. Do not use anything hard, such as a screw driver or scissor points, to 

remove the lint. When cleaning the over lock machine, open the cloth plate and looper 

cover to blow out any lint in those areas. On the blind stitch machine, open the plate to 

expose and clean the area around the spreader. 

3. Turn the hand wheel manually to expose any areas that might have been hidden initially; 

brush again. 

4. Carefully tilt the machine head back until the head rests on the post on the back of the table. 

5. Brush out any lint, dust, or threads in the lower part of the machine. Use a rag to remove 

any lint on the machine’s mechanism, excess oil in the pan, and, if appropriate, the oil pump 

screen. 

6. If the machine is not self-oiling, consult the manual for oiling directions. If the manual is not 

available, place one drop of oil on each moving part on the lower mechanism. 

7. Press the knee lift to the right and lower the machine head into position. 

8. Replace all plates and screws. 

9. Oil the upper mechanism by placing a c p of oil in each oil bole 

10. Replace the bobbin case. 

11. Check the needle to be sure it is clean and the eye is not clogged. 

12. Replace the needle if necessary. 

13. Wipe away any excess oil or dust on the head, machine bed, thread stand, motor, table and 

stand. 

14. If there is lint between the tension discs and in the thread guides, use thread to floss the 

tension discs and remove any lint. 

15. If you have oiled the machine, sew on a few scraps to remove any excess oil. 

16. Wash your hands after cleaning and oiling the machine. 

17. At the end of the day, put a piece of stitching patch under the foot, lower the foot, cover the 

machine, and pick up any trash. 

Page | 100

CHAPTER - VII 

NEEDLE 

Page | 101

1. SELECTION OF NEEDLE 

Basic Skills 

To use Industrial machinery efficiently, you should be able to select and set a needle; adjust 

the stitch length regulator, pressure regulator, and knee lift; Identify balanced tension and adjust as 

needed; and select appropriate thread. 

Setting the Needle 

In the apparel industry, there are literally thousands of different machines, each requiring a different 

needle type. On most newer machines, the needle type for that particular machine is identified on 

the machine head. However, each needle manufacturer identified its needles in a different way; the 

needles for the same type of system may have several different names or numbers, depending on 

the manufacturer. 

Directions: 

1. Begin with the power switch off. Hand wheel until the needle moves machines; you will turn 

the counterclockwise - the direction operating. 

2. Use a screwdriver or Allen wrench to loosen the screw in the needle bar just enough to 

release the needle. 

Changing the needle 

3. Remove the needle from the needle bar. If the needle is broken, remove any broken parts 

that may have dropped into the machine. If part of the shank remains in the needle bar after 

the screw is loosened, tap the needle bar with the handle of the screwdriver. If it still does 

not Fall out, turn the machine on, raise the presser foot, and stitch slowly until the vibration 

causes the needle to drop out. 

Page | 102

4. Dispose of the needle safely. 

5. Note To make a safe container for disposing needles; punch a small hole in the top of a 

discarded film container. 

6. Check the new needle for straightness by rolling it on the machine table. If the needle is 

straight, the blade of the needle will remain parallel to the table surface when it is rolled. 

Check the needle point for burrs by running your fingertip over the point. 

7. To check the needle and thread compatibility, thread the needle with a short length of 

thread. Hold the thread taut at each end in vertical position. The needle should spin slowly 

dawn and around the thread. If It slides slowly down and around the thread. If it slides too 

quickly or does not slide at all, try a different size needle or select another thread. 

8. Use your thumbnail to locate the long groove on the needle. This will help you to set the 

needle correctly. 

9. Hold the new needle between your right thumb and forefinger at the base of the shank 

where the groove begins. 

10. Locate the last thread guide on the needle bar. On straight-stitch machines, the guide is 

generally to the left of the needle. Insert the needle into the needle bar so that the groove is 

facing the side with the last thread guide (left) and the eye is in line with the arm of the 

machine. Check to be sure the needle is inserted into the needle bar as high as possible. 

11. Tighten the needle bar screw. 

12. Tighten the machine and stitch slowly. If the needle is positioned correctly, there will be no 

skipped stitches and no unexpected noises. If it is not set properly, remove the needle and 

reset it. 

Reasons to Change a Needle 

There are many reasons for changing the needle. Some of them are: 

1. The needle is damaged: bent, burred, or broken. 

2. The needle is dull and makes a popping sound when stitching 

3. The thread breaks frequently during stitching. 

4. The machine is skip stitching. 

5. A different thread size is required. 

6. A different fabric is sewn with a different weight, thickness and construction. 

Page | 103

2. PART OF THE MACHINE NEEDLS 

1. Butt: A small pyramid at the upper end of the shank. It is 

designed to make a single-point contact with the hole in the 

needle bar. 

2. Shank: The upper end of the needle that is held in the needle 

bar by the needle screw. The shank is usually round, but it can 

have one or two flat sizes. Designed to support and stabilize the 

needle blade, the diameter of the shank is usually larger than 

the diameter of the blade. 

3. Shoulder: The beginning of the shank just above the needle 

blade. 

4. Blade: The thin section of the needle that extends from the 

shank to the eye. It is easily bent and should be examined for 

straightness periodically. 

5. Scarf (needle scarf, clearance above the eye, clearance cut, or 

spot): A small indentation above the eye that permits the hook 

or looper to pick up the thread loop. On some needles, the scarf 

is elongated and/or deeper to ensure that the needle thread 

loop will be large enough to prevent skip stitching. 

6. Land: A small hump on the blade immediately above the eye. 

Used instead of a scarf, its purpose is to enable the needle 

thread to make a larger loop and form a stitch. 

7. Eye: An opening in the needle blade at the lower end of the 

long groove that carries the thread into the material to the 

hook or looper to make a stitch. The size of the eye is 

proportional to the diameter of the blade. 

8. Point: The tapered end. It is often considered the most 

critical aspect of the needle. The most common needles have a 

round point, a ballpoint, or a cutting point as shown on page 44. 

Generally round points and ballpoints’ are used for woven and 

knit fabrics because they can penetrate the fabric by spreading 

the fibers or deflecting the yarns without damaging them. By 

contrast, needles with cutting points are used for leather. 

9. Tip: The part of the needle that pierces the material. 

10. Needle groove (long groove): A g channel on the black it is located on the side on which the need 

dread enters the eye a provides a Protective guide for the thread when the needle is rising and the 

needle- thread loop is enlarging. 

Page | 104

11. Short groove: A short channel immediately above the needle eye. Located on the side opposite 

the long groove, it is a guide for the needle thread and protects it from abrading when passing 

through the material. 

Needle Selection 

Once the needle system type Is determined, the needle selection - its needle point and size - 

depends primarily on the characteristics of the fabric, but also on the thread, seam type, 

and stitch type. 

Needle point 

The needle point is determined by the fabric weight and its structure. Round points have a conical 

shape designed to spread the yarns without breaking them; they are used for most woven and many 

knitted materials. 

Ballpoint needles have a rounded point and range from light to heavy. They are generally used for 

knits and stretch fabrics and sometimes for button sewing because they center most misaligned 

buttons and do not cut existing stitches. 

Cutting points have sharp cutting edges; they are used on leather, suede, and neoprene. 

Needle Size 

The needle size can be as small as 60 (0-6mm) or as large as 250 (2.5 mm). The metric size describes 

the diameter of the needle blade in hundredths of a millimeter. The needle size is determined by the 

thread size. 

If the needle is too fine, it will abrade the thread bend, break, affect the loop formation, and cause 

skipped stitches. if it is too course, it will damage the fabric, produce an unattractive seam, cause the 

seam to pucker, affect the loop formation, and cause skipped stitches. 

Generally the best choice is the smallest size that will not skip stitches. 

Round point Ball point Leather point 

Page | 105

3. STANDARD NEEDLES 

The configuration of these needles is based on the particular fabric to be sewn. 

Universal needle 

Uses: Safest needle choice for most fabrics. 

Configuration: Has slightly rounded point 

and elongated scarf to enable almost 

foolproof meeting of needle and bobbin 

hook. 

Troubleshooting: When fabric is not 

medium-weight woven, consider needle 

specifically suited to fabric. For example, size 

18 universal needle works on heavy denim, 

but size 18 jeans needle works better. 

Ballpoint and stretch needles 

Uses: Ballpoint needle for heavier, looser 

sweater knits; stretch needle for highly elastic 

fabrics, like 

Spandex, or Lycra. 

Configuration: Both have rounded points that 

penetrate between fabric threads rather than 

pierce them. (Stretch-needle point is slightly 

less rounded than ballpoint.) 

Troubleshooting: Test-stitch knits with 

ballpoint, stretch, and universal needles to see 

which doesn't cut yarn and yields best results. If 

ballpoint skips stitches, try stretch needle. 

Page | 106

Microtex and sharp needles 

Uses: Sewing microfiber, silk, synthetic 

leather; precisely stitching edges; and 

heirloom sewing. 

Configuration: Has an acute point. 

Troubleshooting: Essentially trouble-free, 

but fabric may require a Teflon, roller, or 

even/dual-feed presser foot. 

Denim (jeans) needle 

Uses: For heavyweight denim, duck, 

canvas, upholstery fabrics, artificial 

leather, and vinyl. 

Configuration: Has deeper scarf, acute 

point, and modified shaft to sew without 

pushing fabric down into needle-plate 

hole. Goes through fabric and meets 

bobbin hook better on dense woven 

fabrics. 

Troubleshooting: If stitches skip when 

sewing very heavy fabrics, try larger needle and 

sew more slowly or walk needle through fabric 

(by turning hand crank). 

Leather needle 

Uses: Excellent for sewing natural 

leather. 

Configuration: Has slight cutting point 

(almost like an arrowhead). 

Troubleshooting: On synthetic leather, 

unless it's very heavy synthetic, cuts 

rather than pierces stitch hole and can 

tear leather. Most synthetic leathers 

require Microtex or sharp needle. 

Handicap/self-threading needle 

Uses: Enables easier threading for sewers 

with vision problems. 

Configuration: Universal needle with slipin 

threading slot at the eye. 

Troubleshooting: Always pull sewn piece 

back away from needle before cutting 

thread so needle doesn't unthread. 

Needle works well on woven fabrics, but 

may occasionally snag knits, so test-sew 

to check for fabric and needle 

compatibility. 

Decorative needles 

The configuration is designed to wed thread to fabric for surface embellishment. 

Page | 107

Topstitching needle 

Uses: Topstitching. 

Configuration: Has extra-acute point, 

extra-large eye, and large groove for heavy 

thread. 

Troubleshooting: Use smallest size needle 

that accommodates your thread to avoid 

punching large holes in fabric. 

Metallic needle 

Uses: Sewing with decorative metallic 

threads. 

Configuration: Has universal or standard 

point; large, elongated eye; and large 

groove to allow fragile metallic and 

synthetic filament threads to flow 

smoothly. 

Troubleshooting: Metallic threads are very 

sensitive to problems in machine: Tiniest 

burr on thread path or needle can cause 

problems. 

Embroidery needle 

Uses: Machine embroidering or 

embellishing with decorative thread. 

Configuration: Has light point (neither 

sharp nor ballpoint) and enlarged eye to 

keep decorative threads from shredding or 

breaking, and prevent skipped stitches. 

Troubleshooting: If thread still shreds on 

dense or heavily stitched design, use larger 

size needle or Metallica needle. 

Quilting needle 

Uses: Piecing, quilting, and stippling. 

Configuration: Has special tapered shaft to 

prevent damaging fabrics when stitching 

multiple layers. 

Troubleshooting: Move fabric smoothly 

without pulling on needle when freemotion 

stitching to prevent breaking 

needle. 

Special-purpose needles 

These needles are used only with front-to-back threading machines with zigzag features. Make sure 

your throat-plate needle hole is wide enough to accommodate needle's width, and zigzag width 

function is set at zero to prevent sideways movement. 

Page | 108

Hemstitch (wing) needle 

Uses: Hemstitching or heirloom 

embroidery on linen and batiste. 

Configuration: Has fins on sides of shank 

to create holes as you sew. 

Troubleshooting: Stitch is more effective 

when needle returns to same needle 

hole more than once. If needle pushes 

fabric into needle hole, put stabilizer 

under fabric. 

Triple needle 

Uses: Same uses as for double needle. 

Configuration: Cross bar on single shaft 

connects three needles to sew three 

stitching rows. Comes with universal 

point in 2.5mm and 3mm widths. 

Troubleshooting: Same as for double 

needle. 

Twin (double) needle 

Uses: Topstitching, pin tucking, and 

decorative stitching. 

Configuration: Two needles on single shaft 

produce two rows of stitches. 

Measurement between needles ranges 

from 1.6mm to 6mm, and needles come 

with universal, stretch, embroidery, 

denim, and Metallica points. 

Troubleshooting: Be sure throat plate 

allows for distance between needles. 

Spring needle 

Uses: Free-motion stitching with dropped 

feed dogs. 

Configuration: Has wire spring above point 

to prevent fabrics from riding up onto 

needle, eliminating need for presser foot. 

Troubleshooting: Before using, practice 

free-motion stitching with heavy regular 

needle, paper, and dropped feed dogs. 

Don't pull paper/fabric; instead gently 

guide it through stitching. Wear safety 

glasses for free-motion work, since needles often 

break. 

Page | 109

4. TYPE OF NEEDLE AND THEIR USE 

s.no Types of Sewing Machines 

Needle 

System 

1 Single Needle Lock Stitch Machines 

Single Needle Lock Stitch Machine witch Automatic Thread 

DA X 1or DB X 1 

2 Trimmer 

Single Needle Lock Stitch Machine witch Fabric Edge 

DA X 1or DB X 1 

3 Trimmer DA X 1or DB X 1 

4 Double Needle Lock Stitch Machine DP X 5 

5 Single Needle Lock Stitch Zigzag Machine DB X 1 

DC X 1 or DC X 

6 THREE Thread Over Lock Machine 

27 

DC X 1 or DC X 

7 FIVE thread Over Lock With Safety Stitch Machine 

27 

8 Button Hole Machine DP X 5 

9 Chain Stitch Button Stitch Machine TQ X 1 or TV X 7 

10 Lock Stitch Button Stitch Machine TQ X 1 or TV X 7 

11 Inter Lock/Flat Lock Machine UY X 1 or GAS 

12 Feed Of The Arm Machine For Denim TV X 1 or TV X 7 

13 One &Two Needle Chain Stitch Machine TV X 1 or TV X 7 

14 Blind Stitch Machine LW X 6T 

Page | 110

5. NEEDLE SIZE AND RELEVANCE OF TYPE OF THE MATERIAL TO BE STICHED 

S.No Needle Size Type Of Material 

1 #9 to #11 Light Weight Materials Like silk synthetic, knitwear 

2 #14 to #16 Medium Weight Materials Like Textile, natural fabrics etc.. 

3 #18 to #20 Heavy weight materials like denim etc.. 

4 #22& onwards Extra Heavy weight materials like leather etc.. 

Classification of needle according to point 

1. Normal round point needle 

They are used for woven materials etc example; DB X 1 

2. Light ball point needles 

They are used for thin material, silk etc., & button hole sewing. Example: DP x Si 

3. Medium ball point needles 

They are used for hosiery material etc., Example: IJY 128 GAS 

4. Heavy ball point needles 

They are used for sewing heavy weight materials like rubber etc. 

5. Stub point needles 

They are used for sewing buttons. 

Feed dog Variations 

Very light weight materials 

Fine toothed feed dogs with a pitch of only 1.0 to 125 mm to be used to avoid feed 

damage (pitch = distance between two points in feed dog.) 

Light to medium weight material 

Tooth pitch of 1.3 to 11.6 mm and the peaks of the teeth slightly rounded off to avoid 

damage on fine material 

Heavy weight material 

To keep the both plies together while sewing coarser feed dog of 2.5mm tooth pitch is 

needed 

Page | 111

Delicate fabric 

Even after rounding of teeth tip damage may be caused to rubber coated feed dog with no 

sharp teeth at all may be used 

STANDARD ADJUSTMENTS: 

I) Lock stitch machines 

A) Single Needle Lock Stitch 

1. Needle bar height 

2. hook timing and clearance 

3. Feed dog height and centering 

4. Feed timing. 

B) Double Needle Lock Stitch Machine 

1. Difference between split needle bar and non-split needle bar. 

2. Needle bar height 

3. Hook timing and clearance 

Page | 112

CHAPTER - VIII 

SEWING THREAD AND SELECTION CRITERIA 

Page | 113

Sewing thread is usually less than 1/1000th of the weight of apparel, but it carries more one 

half the responsibilities for its performance 

THREAD SELECTION 

FACTORES IN THREAD SELECTION 

Garment design, type, quality, end use, and life expectancy 

Desired strength and durability 

Fabric weight and type 

Stitch and seam type, number of stitches/inch, machine speed, and needle size 

Cost 

Thread Properties 

Threads are used to form the stitches that hold the fabric parts Together. They can be 

described by fiber type, constriction, and size 

Fiber Type 

Threads can be made from a single fiber type such as cotton, linen, silk, rayon, nylon, 

polyester, or rubber or from a combination of fibers such as cotton/polyester. 

Natural fiber threads 

The most common natural fiber used for threads, cotton threads, have excellent sewabllity 

with little kinking or skip stitching. They are rarely affected by hot needles - a common element of 

high-speed sewing machines-and even sew well on poorly adjusted machines. 

Cotton threads dye well, and since they mold to the fabric better than other fibers, they are 

particularly attractive for topstitched elements. Compared to synthetic threads, their strength and 

resistance to abrasion is inferior, and they shrink and mildew when wet. 

Cotton threads are produced with three finishes: soft, glace’ and mercerized. 

Soft finish threads receive no additional processing except bleaching and dyeing. Used on 

inexpensive garments, they are relatively inexpensive with good sewabllity but because they have a 

high shrinkage, seam pucker] fl g is frequently a problem after washing. 

Page | 114

Glace’ threads are treated with wax and special chemicals for a hard, glossy finish. They are stronger, 

more resistant to abrasion, and stiffer than other cotton threads. They are available in a limited 

color selection and used for gathering and for sewing heavy materials, leather, vinyl, and canvas. 

Mercerized threads are treated with a caustic solution to create a smooth, strong, lustrous 

thread. They are frequently used on cotton garments that will be dyed. 

Linen and silk threads are rarely used in production because of their high cost. 

Synthetic threads 

The most common synthetic threads, polyester and nylon, were developed to perform well 

on synthetic fabrics and withstand the chemicals and heat of durable press treatments. Compared to 

cotton threads of the same size, they are stronger, more resistant to abrasion, mildew and 

ultraviolet radiation, and have less shrinkage. 

Combination fibers 

One of the most common threads in use today is a combination of cotton and polyester, which 

combines the sew ability of cotton with polyester’s strength and resistance to abrasion. 

Thread construction 

Although there are a variety of thread constructions, most threads used in garments are twisted, 

core spun, monofilament, or textured. 

Twisted threads 

All natural fibers, with the exception of silk, begin with fibers - short lengths of staple, which 

are twisted together to make a single-ply thread. Then two or more plies are twisted together in the 

reverse direction to make a sewing thread with a balanced. Twist Without this balance, the thread 

could not be controlled. 

Twist Direct 

Z - Twist S - Twist 

Most threads are finished with a “Z” or left twist because the action of the lockstitch machine would 

cause threads with an “8” twist to unwind 

Page | 115

One exception is the double-needle lockstitch, which has two bobbins one revolving to the left and 

one to the right. This type of machine requires threads with both twists. 

In addition to the natural fibers, polyester, silk, and nylon filaments cut or broken Into staple lengths. 

Spun polyester thread is one of the most common. 

Core spun 

Core spun threads begin with a continuous filament of polyester, which is then wrapped with a 

cotton or polyester sheath to make a single-ply thread. 

Then the two to four plies are twisted together to make the sewing thread 

Cotton/poly threads have the advantage of better sew ability, while poly/poly 

Threads can be dyed in a one-step process. 

Monofilament Threads 

Monofilament is simply a single filament of nylon of polyester. It is stiff, 

wiry, and unravels easily. It is uncomfortable next to the skin and harsh on 

machines. Available only in clear, light and dark gray, monofilament Threads are translucent and 

reflect the fabric’s color. Monofilament threads are used primarily for blind hemming and surging 

inexpensive garments and Household textiles. 

Textured Threads 

Made of multifilament that have been crimp textured or bulked by twisting, crimping, and 

untwisting, textured threads have a soft Land, good coverage, and elasticity. The most common use 

of textured threads is in the loopers of over edge and cover stitch machines; however, very fine sizes 

can be used as needle threads on chain stitch and over edge machines. They can also be used as 

bobbin threads to add moderate stretch to a lock stitched seam. 

Thread Size 

The thread size is dependent on many factors - such as the fabric weight and type, stitch and seam 

type, machine speed, needle size, end use, 

and seam strength. 

Most threads are sized using the Tex system or the cotton count system. The Tex system, which is 

generally used in manufacturing, is a direct system, arid the number increases with the thread size. 

The cotton system; and the number decrease with the thread size. Generally it is easier to 

comparing the Tex numbers when comparing threads with different constructions F example, a core 

spun thread ha size 100 is equivalent to spun polyester thread in size 70 (T-27); and it is larger than 

spun polyester in size 100 (T-21) and textured polyester in size 150 (T.-18). 

If your retailer does not stock threads with a Tex number designation, you can substitute other 

good quality threads. Long staple polyester, cotton- wrapped polyester, and mercerized cotton 

threads are suitable for general sewing on most fabrics. For very lightweight fabrics, use fine cotton 

embroidery thread (60/2) or fine cotton-wrapped polyester. For heavier fabrics, use topstitching 

thread or buttonhole twist. 

The Needle Size Chart from American & Efird, Inc. provides a useful guide for selecting compatible 

needles and threads. However, it Is important to remember that this is the minimum recommended 

needle size and that a larger needle may be required for the fabric or application. 

Page | 116

CHAPTER - IX 

TYPES OF STITCHES & SEAM 

Page | 117

1. STITCH CLASSIFICATIONS 

How a stitch is formed 

The formation of a stitch begins when the needle penetrates the fabric and descends to its 

lowest point. 

The bobbin hook then slides by the needle's scarf, catching the upper thread, and carries it 

around the bobbin and bobbin thread. 

The thread is then pulled up into the fabric, completing the stitch. 

Each category of sewing machine produces a specific type of stitch formation depending on the 

number of needles, looper, and threads which combine to construct the stitch. Each of these 

configurations is known as a stitch type and they are classified according to their main 

characterization. 

Page | 118

A. STITCH CLASSIFICATIONS 

Class 100 - Chain stitch 

One of the simplest stitch types, the chain stitch has one or more needle threads and is formed 

by Intra looping. This stitch is very Insecure and unravels easily if a stitch is broken or skipped or if 

the last loop is not fastened securely. This stitch is used for sewing buttons and buttonholes, 

hemming, basting and pad stitching. 

Class 200 - Rand Stitch 

Generally formed by hand, the hand stitch is made with a needle that is passed from one side of 

the material to the other as a single line of thread. The most important machine to duplicate this 

stitch is a pick stitching machine, which is used as a decorative detail on the other edges of jackets. 

Class 300 - Lockstitch 

The most common stitch type, the lockstitch has two or more groups of threads that interlace to 

form the stitch. One group is called the needle threads and the other the bobbin threads. These 

stitches do not unravel easily and always require a bobbin. Very versatile, they are used for seaming, 

hemming, and setting zippers and pockets. 

Class 400 - Multi Thread Chain stitch 

Sometimes called a double-locked stitch, the multithread chain stitch has two or more groups of 

threads that interlace and interloop with each other. One group is called the needle threads and the 

other the looper threads. This stitch is actually stronger than the lockstitch; however, if the threads 

are not properly secured on the finishing end, it will unravel. It is used for seaming and in 

combination with the over edge stitch on over lock machines. When used for seaming, the needle 

thread determines the seam strength and the looper threads can be finer. 

Class 500 - Over edge Stitch 

The over edge stitch is formed with one or more groups of threads that interloop to form a 

thread sheath around the fabric edge. The most common stitches have one or two needle threads 

and one or two looper threads. 

Overedge stitches are v elastic and do not in unravel easily. They are for neatening edges 

trimming woven and low stretch knitted fabrics and decorative edgings. All of the stitches can be 

used for neatening; however, one and two-thread overedge stitches cannot be used for seaming 

because the stitch opens up when stressed transversely. And, since the stitches produce a closed 

seam that cannot be pressed open, it is not always acceptable on better garments. When used for 

seaming, the needle thread determines the seam strength. 

This stitch is frequently combined with a multithread. Chain stitch (401) to seam and finish the 

edges. 

Class 600 – Cover stitch 

The most complex stitch class, the cover stitch is generally formed with three or more 

groups of threads that cover the raw edges of both surfaces. Very elastic, It is used to create low - 

bulk and decorative seams on underwear and knitted casual garments. Threads should be strong 

with a soft hand. 

Page | 119

Chain stitch (class100) Hand stitch (class 200) 

Bobbin Thread Bobbin Thread 

Needle Thread Needle Thread 

Lock stitch (Class 300) Multi-thread Chain stitch (Class 400) 

Bobbin Thread Looper Thread 

Needle Thread Needle Thread 

Over edge Stitch (Class 500) Cover Stitch (Class 600) 

Lower Looper Thread Lower Looper Thread 

Upper Looper Thread Needle Thread 

Page | 120

2. SEAM TYPES AND CLASSIFICATIONS 

Seams are basic element of construction formed when two or more pieces of material are sewn 

together, they are used for joining garment sections In the production of sewn products. 

The success of every garment depends on the accuracy and skill with which the seams join the 

Individual components of the garment 

Factors in the selection of Seam Type and Application 

1. Garment design, type, quality, end use, and care. 

2. Fabric type, bulk, texture, weight transparency, and tendency to fray. 

3. Desired strength and durability. 

4. Difficulty of construction and skill of the operators. 

5. Equipment available. 

6. Cost of labor and materials. 

7. Retail price. 

8. Designer or manufacturer preference. 

9. Current fashion trends. 

Page | 121

SEAM CLASSIFICATION 

As per the British standard 3870, Part 1 - 1991 seams may classified Into eight types. 

Class 1 Super imposed Seam 

French Seam 

Piped Beam 

Class 2 Lapped Seam 

Lap felled Seam 

Welted Seam 

Class 3 Bound Seam 

Class 4 Flat Seam 

Class 5 Decorative Seam 

Class 6 Edge neatening 

Class 7 Addition of other Seams 

Class 8 Belt loops 

General Guide for Seam Allowances 

Generally the following seam allowances are used in apparel construction, but it must be 

remembered that this is only a guide and will not be appropriate for every design and fabric. 

1/8” to 3/8” Enclosed seams at edges that have separate facings, mach as necklines, collars, 

cuffs, and armholes, and on intricate curves. The narrowest (1/8”) seam allowances can be 

used on lightweight fabrics that do not fray, while the widest (3/8”) are used as loosely 

woven S fabrics and fabrics that ravel easily. 

3/8” to 1/2” Sleeves, yokes, waistlines, gores, style lines within the silhouette, center lines, 

top-stitched seams, cut-out darts, cuff/sleeve seams, band/skirt seams, inseams, and side 

seams on budget and moderately priced garments. 

3/4” to 1”: Vertical seams on better garments, zipper plackets, and darts. 

Page | 122

3. SEAMS & STITCHES OF MEN`S SHIRT 

Counterstich sleeve 

Attach sleeve 

Sew front fly to left front 

Sew button on front 

Sew pocket 

Sew buttonhole on front 

Sew button to top of front & cuff 

Sew side & under sleeve 

Sew buttonhole to top of front & cuff 

Sew yoke to back 

Runstitch cuff 

Page | 123

4. SEAMS & STITCHES OF MENS`S TROUSER 

Attach zipper to left fly 

Make belt loop 

Sew button to fly & hip pocket 

Serge front & back 

Sew eyelet buttonhole 

Bartack eyelet buttonhole end 

Sew belt loop to waist band 

Sew belt loop bottom 

Sew hip pocket welt to back 

Sew side 

Page | 124

5. SEAMS & STITCHES OF DENIM TROUSER 

Hem ticket pocket 

Sew eyelet buttonhole 

Topstitch waist band corner 

Sew waist band 

Serge side pocket facing 

Topstitch left front fly 

Sew inseam 

Hem bottom 

Sew side 

Bartack front fly 

Sew belt loop 

Make belt loop 

Sew leather label to waist band 

Decorative stitch to hip pocket 

Sew hip pocket to back 

Page | 125

6. SEAMS & STITCHES OF POLO T - SHIRT 

Sew buttonhole to front fly 

Sew button to front fly 

Serge pocket mouth 

Attach sleeve mouth rib to sleeve 

Sew under sleeve 

Sew side & under sleeve 

Sew pocket 

Sew sleeve 

Hem bottom 

Make slit 

Page | 126

7. SEAMS & STITCHES OF ROUND NECK T – SHIRT 

Join neck rib & attach neck 

rib to body 

Attach sleeve 

Hem sleeve 

Hem bottom 

Page | 127

CHAPTER - X 

DIFFERENT TYPES OF SEWING DEFECTS & REMIDIES 

Page | 128

1. DOUBLE NEEDLE LOCK STICH MACHINE 

S.No Sewing Defects Causes Remedies 

1 Thread Breakage 

2 Skip Stitching 

3 Loose stitch 

4 

Thread escapes 

from the needle eye 

after thread 

trimming 

Burns on the thread path, 

needle point and hook tip 

Needle thread tension is two 

high 

Bobbin case opening lever 

provides an excessive clearance 

at the bobbin case 

Hook set is not lubricated 

properly 

Remove burns by using a 

emery sheet ( fine) 

Adjust the needle thread 

tension 

Correct the clearance between 

bobbin case opening lever and 

bobbin case edge. 

Increase the oil circulation level 

Thread untwists Threading should be properly. 

Clearance between the needle 

and hook tip is more 

Presser foot pressure is not 

enough 

Correct hook timing and 

clearance 

Check the presser foot 

regulator level 

Synthetic thread or thin thread Wind the thread on the needle 

Bobbin thread does not pass 

through the forked end of 

tension spring on the bobbin 

case 

Thread the bobbin case 

correctly 

Bobbin does not spin smoothly Replace the bobbin 

Bobbin thread tension is too low Adjust the bobbin thread 

tension 

Bobbin is wound too tightly Adjust the tension device in 

bobbin winder assembly. 

Thread tension given by the 

tension post no. I is eye after 

thread too high 

Loosen tension post no.1 

slightly. 

Page | 129

2. BUTTON HOLING SEWING MACHINE 


1 Needle thread is broken 

2 Thread slips out 

3 

Wobbling stitches are 

formed in the over edging 

seams 

4 Stitches float over cloth 

5 Skip stitching 

6 

The needle Thread at the 

first bar tacking comes out 

and lumps on the bottom 

of cloth 

The tension of the tension 

post No.2 is two tight 

The tension or stroke of the 

take up spring is more 

Blade point of sewing hook 

has burr or scratches 

Proper timing of the sewing 

hook 

Decrease the tension of the 

tension post 


take up spring 

Smoothen by the sand 

paper. 

Readjust the hook timing. 

Improper threading Cheek Threading 

Needle Thread Move back the needle 

thread trimmer driving plate 

B 

The whip stitch is not formed 

at the start of sewing 

A the tension disc no.2, is too 

lose 

Bobbin thread tension is too 

high 

Bobbin thread tension is not 

enough 

Bobbin thread slips out of 

the thread path on the 

bobbin case 

The work clamp check is too 

large for button hole 

The cloth is made light 

weight materials 


tension post No.1 

Increase the tension. 

Decrease the bobbin thread 

tension 

Readjust the tension 

Properly thread the bobbin 

case 

Change the work clamp 

check with a smaller one 

Delay the timing of the 

needle and sewing hook 

The tension no.1 is too loose Readjust the tension 

The bobbin thread tension is 

too high 

Decrease the bobbin thread 

tension 

Page | 130

3. BUTTON STITCH MACHINE 


1 Thread breakage 

2 Button are not sewn tightly 

4 

3 

The first stitch trails 

reactively long thread from 

the right side of the button 

Thread trimming failure in 

the state of stop-motion 

The yoke slide does not move 

in the correct way 

The thread tension post no.2, 

fails to release the thread at 

correct timing 

The thread nipper catches the 

thread 

The needle does not enter the 

centre of the holes in the 

button 

The yoke slide does not move 

in the correct way 

The thread tension post no.2, 

fails to release the thread at 

correct timing 

The work pressing force is too 

height or too low 

The needle does not enter the 

centre of the holes in the 

button 

The thread pull off lever does 

not work properly 

The thread tension post Make 

the thread timing no.2 fails to 

release the thread at correct 

timing 

The needle hits the edge of 

the holes in the button 

The button clamp assembly 

does not rise to the necessary 

height 

The thread nipper fails to 

press the thread 

Adjust the timing of the 

motion of the yoke slide at 

each end. 

Make the thread release 

slightly easier 

Adjust the position of the 

nipper bar block 

Adjust the button clamp jaw 

lever holder. 

Adjust the timing of the 

motion of the yoke slide at 

each end 

Make the thread release 

slightly later 

Adjust the work pressing 

force properly 


lever holder 

Adjust the thread pull off 

lever by the nipper bar block 

Make the thread timing 

slightly later to give more 

tension to the stitches. 


lever holder 

Provide a 12mm clearance 

between the feed plate and 

button clamp jaw lever 

when raised 

Adjust the nipper bar block 

Page | 131

4. OVER LOCK MACHINE 


Needle type is wrong Use a specified needle 

1 Needle breaking 

2 Cloth is not cut 

3 Skip stitch 

4 Thread Breakage 

5 Puckering 

Needle size is not correct Use a needle size suitable to the 

thread gauge and type of fabrics 

Needle is not installed Install the needle correctly 

Needle is bent Use good needle 

Needle to needle guard relation 

is bad 

Correct the relation 

Needle to looper relation is bad Correct the looper timing 

Position of the upper and lower 

knife is inadequate 

Adjust the knife position 

Knife blade has worn out Sharpen the lower knife or renew 

the upper knife 

Needle to looper relation is 

wrong 

Needle is thread with 's' twist 

thread 

Correct the needle-to-looper 

relation 

Use a ‘Z’ twist thread 

Thread tension is wrong Adjust the thread tension 

Quality of the thread is poor Use the thread of good quality 

Thread is too thick for needle 

size 

Needle is installed in wrong 

way 

Select a suitable needle or thread 

Threading properly 

Thread tension is too high Adjust the thread tension nut 

Feed dog comes up too much 

from the throat plate 

Differential feed mechanism is 

not set Correctly 

Pressure applied by the 

pressure foot is too high or too 

low 

Correct the feed dog height 

Correct the differential feed 

mechanism 

Correct the presser foot pressure 

Page | 132

CHAPTER - XI 

GARMENT MANUFACTURING 

PARTS AND ASSEMBLY PREPARATION OF A SHIRT 

Page | 133

1. Straight Long Seams with minimal bursts 

Machine: SNLS 

Exercise: Straight Long Seams with minimal bursts 


The apprentice should sit facing the Sewing Machine with both 

feet on the pedal and the right knee against the knee lift. Place 

Fabric close to the Operator. 

Methodology: 

Security 


Pick Up the 20”x5” plaid plies, align them and place 

them under needle. Take reference to any straight 

line on the plaid fabric. 

Start sewing by following the reference point and 

sew off at the end. 

Turn the fabric by 180 degrees and position it under 

the needle taking a new reference point. 

Continue the process 4 as many time as possible 

using the same fabric. 

First try to sew straight with any number of bursts 

applicable to you and once you achieve this 

objective try to reduce the number of bursts. 

At the end of this exercise you should be able to sew 

a long straight seam in a 1 or 2 bursts. 

The apprentice must be careful not to prick himself with the 

needle. 

Use Safety glasses. 


Quality 

Lines sewed must be straight. 

Goal:14Seconds Exercise Number 

Illustration: 

Fabric 

Page | 134

Ergonomics 


Back Rest Facing Forward. 

Waste 

Try to use the fabric given to you optimally by sewing as many 

lines as possible. Keep the length of end threads low. 


Ability to sew long seams straight 

Ability to sew long seams in min. no. of bursts. 


SNLS 

2 Thread Cones. 

2 Bobbins 

20”x5” Fabric plies & Thread trimmer 

Page | 135

2. Attaching one piece to other using folder 

Machine: SNLS 

Exercise: Attaching One Piece to Other using Folder 





Methodology: 

Security 


Pick Up the body from the left side on the table and 

place under the needle. 

Pick the facing from lap align and place it on the 

body under the needle as shown in fig. 

Start sewing straight by holding and feeding the 

placket facing with right hand and body with left 

hand. 

While feeding ensures that the placket facing is fed 

normally while body is fed a bit tighter in proportion 

to placket facing. 

Sew off at the other end and dispose it in chain until 

the bundle or lot is completed. 


needle. 



Quality 

Checks matching along the placket should be consistent. 

Puckering must be avoided while placket attaching. 

Goal: 

Illustration: 

Fabric 20” X 5” 

Exercise Number 

22” X 2” (Placket Piece) 

Page | 136

Ergonomics 



Waste 

If possible use the other edge of the fabric for placket facing 

attaching. 


Ability to match checks while sewing. 

Ability to feed two plies at different rates while sewing. 

Necessary materials 

DNLS 


3 Bobbins 

20”x5” & 22” x 2” Fabric plies & Thread trimmer 

Page | 137

3. Placket facing attach using folder 

Machine: DNLS 

Exercise: Placket Facing Attach Using Folder 





Methodology: 

Security 


Pick Up the body from the left side on the table and 

place under the needle. 

Pick the facing from lap and pass it through the 

folder. When placket facing reaches the other end of 

folder aligns it to the body, match the checks and 

position it under the needle. 

Start sewing straight by holding and feeding the 

placket facing with right hand and body with left 

hand. 

Sew off at the other end and dispose it in chain until 

the bundle or lot is completed. 


needle. 



Quality 

Checks matching along the placket should be consistent. 

Puckering must be avoided while placket attaching. 

Ergonomics 



Waste 

If possible use the other edge of the fabric for placket facing 

attaching. 

Goal: 

Illustration: 

Fabric Ready Front Cuts 

22” X 2” For Placket 


Page | 138


Ability to match checks while sewing. 

Ability to feed two plies at different rates while sewing. 

Ability to work with folder for attaching placket 


DNLS 


3 Bobbins 


Folder 

Page | 139

4. Hemming operations using folder 

Machine: SNLS 

Exercise: Hemming Operations Using Folder 


The apprentice should sit facing the Sewing Machine 


the knee lift. Place Fabric close to the Operator. 

Methodology: 

STEP 1. 

Security 


Pick Up the ply from left ext, fold it to 1”at one 

edge as shown in fig. and place it under the 

needle. 

Start sewing straight by folding the width with 

right hand and feeding the fabric forward with 

left hand. 

Sew off at the other end and dispose it in 

chain until the bundle or lot is completed. 

STEP 2. 

Move the above chain-disposed bundle to 

left side of you. Take the first piece in the 

bundle and feed it to the folder attached. 

Start Stitching straight by holding the fabric 

with right hand and feeding it into the folder. 

Sew off at the edge and dispose in chain. 


the needle. 



Quality 

Maintain a margin of 1” throughout the seam. Avoid 

down stitches along the seam. If the fabric is plaid, 

checks to be matched where ever necessary. 

Ergonomics 



Goal:18 Seconds Exercise Number 

Illustration: 

Fabric 

Step 1: One Edge Without Using Folder 

Step 2: Other Edge Using 

Folder 

Page | 140

Waste 

Use the fabric further for PLK01 Exercise. 


Ability to do all hemming Operations 

Ability to work in single burst using folder. 


SNLS 


2 Bobbins 


Folder 

Page | 141

5. Square pocket attach 

Machine: SNLS 

Exercise: Square Pocket Attach 





Methodology: 

Security 


Pickup the Front from Pickup bar and place it 

on Machine Bed. Now Pick the Creased Pocket 

from Right extension and align it to the 

marking on Front. 

After Setting the pocket to Front, position 

them under the needle at Point ‘A’ as Shown in 

Fig. 

Give a Back tack at A and start sewing towards 

B. At B stop with needle down position turn 

the Pc by 90 degrees and follow the seam as 

shown in Figure. 

Sew with precision stops at all corners with 

needle down position until Use reach the 

Position ‘C’. 

At ‘c’ give a Back tack, Trim the threads and 

dispose the front to center runner or Disposal 

Bar. 


the needle. 



Quality 

Pocket edges must be sharp. 

Pocket Should be Properly balanced on Front. 

No Down Stitches allowed. 

Goal: 

Illustration: 

Fabric 

Ready Creased Pockets 

Ready Fronts 


Page | 142

Ergonomics 



Waste 

Use the Fronts For Mock shoulder attach Operation. 


Ability to do Pocket Attach Operation. 


SNLS 


2 Bobbins 

Ready Fronts & Pockets. 

Trimmer & 1/16” CL Foot 

Page | 143

6. Rounded bottom pocket attach 

Machine: SNLS 

Exercise: Rounded Bottom Pocket Attach 





Methodology: 

Security 








Fig. 






needle down position until U reach the 




Bar. 


the needle. 



Quality 


Bottom Corners must be rounded precisely 



Ergonomics 



Goal: 

Illustration: 

Fabric 


Ready Fronts 


Page | 144

Waste 

Use the Fronts For Mock Shoulder Attach Operation. 




SNLS 


2 Bobbins 



Page | 145

7. Bottom triangle pocket attach 

Machine: SNLS 

Exercise: Bottom Triangle Pocket Attach 





Methodology: 

Security 








Fig. 










Bar. 


the needle. 



Quality 




Ergonomics 



Waste 


Goal: 

Illustration: 

Fabric 



Ready Fronts 

Page | 146




SNLS 


2 Bobbins 



Page | 147

8. Diamond pocket attach 

Machine: SNLS 

Exercise: Diamond Pocket Attach 





Methodology: 

Security 








Fig. 










Bar. 


the needle. 



Quality 




Ergonomics 



Goal: 

Illustration: 

Fabric 


Ready Fronts 


Page | 148

Waste 





SNLS 


2 Bobbins 



Page | 149

9. Long & Short seams with needle down stoppages at corners 

Machine: SNLS 

Exercise: Long & Short Seams with needle 


Down Stoppages at Corners 

The apprentice should sit facing the Sewing Machine with 

both feet on the pedal and the right knee against the knee 

lift. Place Fabric close to the Operator. 

Methodology: 

Security 


Pick Up two 20” X 5” plies (One from right 

extension and other from lap ) simultaneously 

with both hands, align them on one side and 

position them under needle at ¼” from corner. 

Start Sewing Straight, holding and aligning plies 

using right hand and guiding the fabric forward 

with left hand. 

Continue stitching until you reach ¼ “ from 

opposite edge where you stop with the needle 

down position. 

With the needle down position turn the plies at 

90 degrees and continue stitching, holding the 

fabric with right hand and guiding it with left 

hand. 

Repeat the steps 4 & 5 until you reach the last 

edge where you sew off as shown in the 

diagram. 

With trimmer on right hand cut the sew off 

thread and dispose. 


the needle. 



Quality 

Maintain a margin of ¼” throughout the seams. Needle 

must be in down position while stopped at corners. 

Ergonomics 



Goal: 25 sec Exercise Number 

Illustration: 

Fabric 20” x 5” 

2 Plies; One 

Over another 

¼” 

Page | 150

Waste 

Try to use fabric optimally. Re-Use the Fabric in other 

exercises if possible. 


Ability to hold and sew long seams straight. 

Ability to stop with needle down 

Ability to maintain equi-margin along edges. 


SNLS 


2 Bobbins 


Page | 151

Machine: SNLS 10. Collar run stitch operation 




Exercise: the knee lift. Mock Place Collar Fabric RunStitch close to the Operator. 

Methodology: 

Security 


Pick Up two Collar Plies (One from right 

extension and other from lap ) simultaneously 

with both hands, align them on one side and 

position them under needle at ¼” from corner. 

Start Sewing Straight, holding and aligning 

plies using right hand and guiding the fabric 

forward with left hand. 

Continue stitching until you reach ¼ “ from 

opposite edge where you stop with the needle 

down position. 

With the needle down position turn the plies 

at 90 degrees and continue stitching, holding 

the fabric with right hand and guiding it with 

left hand. 



diagram. 

With trimmer on right hand, cut the sew off 



the needle. 



Quality 



Ergonomics 



Waste 



Goal: 25 sec Exercise Number 

Illustration: 

Ready Cut Collar Plies 

CL 02 

2 Plies; One 

Over another 

Page | 152


Ability to do Collar RunStitch Operation. 



Necessary Material 

SNLS 


2 Bobbins 

Ready Cut Collar Plies 

Page | 153

Machine: SNLS 

11. Top stitch along edges 

Exercise: Top Stitch along Edges 





Methodology: 

Security 


Pick Up the piece from Machine bed and place 

it under the needle at a distance of ¼ “ from 

the edge. 

Start Sewing Straight maintaining a margin of 

¼” until you reach ¼ “ from opposite edge 

where you stop with the needle down 

position. 

With the needle down position turn the plies 

at 90 degrees and continue stitching. 



diagram. 




the needle. 



Quality 



Ergonomics 



Goal: 20 Sec Exercise Number CL 03 

Illustration: 

Pc’s From CL01 to be turned & Used for this 

Operation 

Page | 154

Waste 




Ability to do Collar RunStitch Operation. 




SNLS 


2 BobbinsReady 

Cut Collar Plies 

Page | 155

12. Hem along the contour 

Machine: SNLS 

Exercise: Hem along the Contour 





Methodology: 

Security 


Pick Up the fabric From Lap, fold it 3/8” at the 

corner and place it under the needle. 

Sew at ¼” margin from the edge carefully 

following the contour. 

Trim the thread and remove the fabric. 

Fold the fabric along the other edge at 3/8” 

width and place it under the needle. 

Hem stitch folding the margin with the right 

hand and guiding the fabric with the left hand 

by maintaining the ¼” width from the edge 

throughout the contour. 

Trim the thread and dispose the fabric. 


the needle. 



Quality 

Maintain a margin of ¼” throughout the seams. No 

down or dropped stitch allowed during hemming. Keep 

the puckering minimal along round edges. 

Goal: 24 seconds Exercise Number 

Illustration: 

Fabric 

CL 05 

Page | 156

Ergonomics 



Waste 

Try to use fabric optimally. Re-Use the Fabric in Pick 

attach Operation. 


Ability to fold and hem stitch along the curve. 

Ability to maintain equal-margin along edges. 


SNLS 


2 Bobbins 

Ply as Shown in Figure & Thread trimmer 

Page | 157

13. Mock neck band hem 

Machine: SNLS 

Exercise: Mock Neck Band Hem 





Methodology: 

Security 


Pick Up the fabric From Machine bed fold it at 

3/8” width at bottom end and place this end 

under the needle. 

Now start Sewing at a margin of ¼” from the 

folded edge along the required contour. 

When sewing make sure that the folding is 

done precisely with right hand and the fabric is 

guided by right hand. 

Sew off at the other end and dispose in chain. 


the needle. 



Quality 

Maintain the stitch margin of ¼” throughout the folded 

edge. No down or dropped stitch allowed during 

hemming. Keep the puckering minimal along rounded 

edges. 

Ergonomics 



Goal: 16 seconds Exercise Number 

Illustration: 


CL 06 

Page | 158

Waste 

Re-Use the Fabric in Pick attach Operation. 


Ability to do Neck Band Hemming. 

Ability to maintain equal-margin along edges. 


SNLS 


2 Bobbins 

Ply as Shown in Figure & Thread trimmer 

Page | 159

14. Sewing with template 

Machine: SNLS 

Exercise: Sewing with Template 





Methodology: 

Security 


Pick Up the fabric and place it under the 

needle and place the template above the 

fabric. 

Sew Straight along the template 

Continue stitching until you reach the other 

end of the template where you sew off, cut 

the threads. 

Now position the fabric such that the other 

edge of the template is under the needle and 

sew holding the template as shown in figure. 

Sew Off at the other end, Trim the thread and 

dispose the Fabric. 


the needle. 



Quality 

Sew Straight. Avoid moving the template while sewing. 

Goal: 23 Seconds Exercise Number 

Illustration: 


CL 07 

Page | 160

Ergonomics 



Waste 




Ability to hold template and sew as required. 


SNLS 


2 Bobbins 


Template 10” X 3” 

Page | 161

15. Mock pick stitching 

Machine: SNLS 

Exercise: Mock Pick Stitching. 





Methodology: 

Security 


Open the bundle; Place collars and Inside 

Collar band ply on Lap, Top C/B on the right 

extension. 

Pick collar and ply on right extension 

simultaneously, align and place on the table. 

Pick up second ply on the lap and align with 

other two. Now place the template on the top 

ply align it with the shape of the collar and 

position all the three under the needle. 

Start sewing along the contour of the 

template. 

Sew off at the other end, trim the thread and 

dispose the collar. 


the needle. 



Quality 

Collar and template should be aligned properly at the 

collar corners. Pattern should not be displaced while 

sewing. Stitches should be made exactly along the 

contour of the template. 


Illustration: 

CL 08 

Fabric Collars From CL04 

Hemmed N/B ply from CL06 

20” X 3” for Bottom N/B Ply 

PATTERN 

Page | 162

Ergonomics 



Waste 

Use the end pieces for the mock exercises of center 

stitch finish collars. 


Ability to sew along the curves. 

Ability to handle three plies at a time. 

Ability to sew using the template. 


SNLS 


2 Bobbins 

Neckband plies and ready collar. 

Thread trimmer 

Template 

Page | 163

16. Top stitch handling tree piles 

Machine: SNLS 

Exercise: Top Stitch Handling Three Plies 





Methodology: 

Security 


Pick Up three plies from lap, align and position 


Sew straight at a margin of ¼”and sew off at 

the other edge. 

Turn the top and bottom plies downwards at 

the joint and crease it along the edge. 

Do Top stitch along the joint edge and sew off 

at the other end. 

Sew at a margin of ¼” from one the edge of 

the fabric. 

Trim the thread and remove the fabric. 


the needle. 



Quality 

Maintain a margin of ¼” throughout the seam for the 

step 1 exercise. Avoid down stitches for the step 2 

exercises. 


Illustration: 

Fabric 

STEP 1 

STEP 2 

CL 09 

Page | 164

Ergonomics 



Waste 

Use the fabric further for PLK01 Exercise. 


Ability to hold and sew long seams straight. 

Ability to sew top edge stitch using two or more 

plies. 


SNLS 


2 Bobbins 


1/16” CR Foot. 

Page | 165

17. Mock centre stitch collar 

Machine: SNLS 

Exercise: Mock Centre Stitch Collar 





Methodology: 

Security 


Pick Up the Collar from Table and position the 

start point from where the center stitch 

begins, under the needle. 

Sew straight at a margin of 1/16” from the 

joint edge along the seam. 

Stop at required point at the other end, trim 

the threads and dispose off. 


the needle. 



Quality 

Down Stitches not allowed. Edge stitch must be 

uniformly at a margin of 1/16” from the Joint. 

Ergonomics 



Waste 

Use the collars for Collar attaches Later. Minimize thread 

end wastage. 


Ability to Do Center stitch on Collar. 


Illustration: 

Fabric 

CL 10 

Page | 166


SNLS 


2 Bobbins 

Ready Collars & Thread trimmer 

1/16” CR Foot. 

Page | 167

18. Mock topstitch collar 

Machine: SNLS 

Exercise: Mock Topstitch Collar 





Methodology: 

Security 


Pick Up the ready collar from Machine bed and 

place it under the needle at a distance of ¼ “ 


Start Sewing Straight maintaining a margin of 

¼” until you reach ¼ “ from opposite edge 

where you stop with the needle down 

position. 

With the needle down position turn the collar 

at ¼” w.r.t the other edge and continue 

stitching. 



diagram. 




the needle. 



Quality 




Illustration: 

CL 04 

Pcs from Collar Run stitch operations to be turned 

and used in this exercise. 

Page | 168

Ergonomics 



Waste 

Try to use fabric optimally. Re-Use the Fabric in mock 

Pick attach Exercise. 


Ability to do Topstitch Collar Operation. 




SNLS 


2 Bobbins 

Ready Collars & Trimmer 

Page | 169

19. Cuff hem 

Machine: SNLS 

Exercise: Cuff Hem 





Methodology: 

Security 


Pick Up 11” x 3.5” ply from machine bed, fold 

it by 3/8” and position it under the needle at 

¼” from the edge. 

Now Start sewing Straight by folding the width 

with the right hand and feeding the fabric 

forward with left hand. 



the needle. 



Quality 

Maintain a margin of ¼” throughout the seams. No 

Down stitches allowed. 

Ergonomics 



Goal: 

Illustration: 

Fabric 11” x 3.5” Ply 


CF 01 

Page | 170

Waste 

Ability 

Ability to do Cuff Hem Operation. 


SNLS 


2 Bobbins 

11”x 3.5” Fabric plies & Thread trimmer 

Page | 171

20. Mock run stitch cuffs 

Machine: SNLS 

Exercise: Mock Run Stitch Cuffs 





Methodology: 

Security 


Pick Up 11” x 3.5” ply from machine bed and 

another ply from the lap, align and position 

them under the needle at ¼” from the edge. 

Now Place the template over the plies and 

start sewing with a back tack, along the 

contour of the template. 

While sewing hold the Template with Left 

hand and handle the plies using right hand. 

At the other end sew off with a back tack and 

dispose in chain. 


the needle. 



Quality 

Maintain a margin of ¼” throughout the seams. Follow 

the template precisely at the rounded corners. 

Ergonomics 



Goal: 

Illustration: 

Fabric 11” x 3.5” Ply 

Ready Hemmed Ply 

Template 


CF 02 

Page | 172

Waste 

Use these cuffs for Cuff attach Operation. 


Ability to do Cuff Run stitch Operation 


SNLS 


2 Bobbins 

11”x 3.5” Fabric plies & Thread trimmer 

Page | 173

21. Binding operation 

Machine: SNLS 

Exercise: Binding Operation. 





Methodology: 

STEP 1. 

STEP 2. 

Security 


Pickup plane ply with left hand from machine 

bed and u-ply from right extension 


Align both plies along seam edge and place 

them under needle. 


Pick up the end piece from above, turn and 

place the end of folded edge other side under 

the needle. 

Start sewing straight at an equi-margin from 

the folded edge. 



the needle. 



Goal: 

Illustration: 


STEP 1. 

STEP 2. 


SL 01 

22” x 2” (Creased) 

Page | 174

Quality 

Avoid the visibility of attach stitches. 

Avoid down stitches on both faces. 

Ergonomics 



Waste 


Ability to attach two plies. 

Ability to turn and topstitch a fold. 

(Binding stitch) 


SNLS 


2 Bobbins 

2 Fabric plies & Trimmer 

T – Guide 

Page | 175

22. Binding operation using a folder 

Machine: SNLS 

Exercise: Binding Operation Using a Folder 





Methodology: 

Security 


Pickup the facing 22” x 3” from the lap and 

feed it into the Folder, eject it out from the 

other end and position the fold under the 

needle. 

Now take 20” x 5” from the pick up bar and 

position it in between the facing ply U – Fold, 


Now start sewing by feeding the Facing 

through the folder with right hand and 20” x 5” 

with the left hand. 



the needle. 



Quality 

No Roping allowed. 


Goal: 

Illustration: 


22” x 3” 

Using a Folder F205 


SL 02 

Page | 176

Ergonomics 



Waste 

Use the other edge also for binding Attaches. 


Ability to do Binding Seams Using a Folder. 


SNLS 


2 Bobbins 

2 Fabric plies (20” x 5”, 22” x 3”) 

Trimmer 

Folder F205 

Page | 177

23. Mock continuous slv placket attach using a folder 

Machine: SNLS 

Exercise: Mock Continuous Slv Placket Attach Using a 

Folder 





Methodology: 

Security 


Pickup the facing 14” x 3” from the lap and 

feed it into the Folder, eject it out from the 

other end and position the fold under the 

needle. 

Now pick the ready full Sleeve from Pick Up 

stand and position cut edge between the 

facing ply U – Fold, under the needle. 


through the folder with right hand and Sleeve 




the needle. 



Quality 



Goal: 

Illustration: 


SL 03 

Fabric Full Sleeve Ready Cut 

14” x 3” Ply Cuts 

Using a Folder F205 

Page | 178

Ergonomics 



Waste 

Use these Sleeves for Sleeve Attach Exercises. 


Ability to Attach Continuous Sleeve Placket Using a 

Folder. 


SNLS 


2 Bobbins 

Ready Sleeves & 14” x 3” Plies 

Folder F205 

Page | 179

24. Mock split edge placket attach operation using folder 

Machine: SNLS 

Exercise: Mock Split Edge Placket Attach Operation Using 

Folder 





Methodology: 

Security 


Pickup the facing 7” x 1.5” from a box under 

the Machine and feed it into the Folder, eject it 

out from the other end and position the fold 


Now pick the Ready full Sleeve from Pick Up 

stand and position cut edge between the 

facing ply U – Fold, under the needle. 


through the folder with right hand and Sleeve 




the needle. 



Quality 



Goal: 

Illustration: 


SL 04 

Fabric Full Sleeve Ready Cut 

7” x 1.5” Ply Cuts 

Using a Folder 

Page | 180

Ergonomics 



Waste 

Use these Sleeves for Sleeve Attach Exercises. 


Ability to Attach Split Sleeve Placket to Sleeve Using 

a Folder. 


SNLS 


2 Bobbins 

Ready Sleeves & 7” x 1.5” Plies 

Folder 

Page | 181

25. Attach two plies using folder 

Machine: DNLS 

Exercise: Attach Two plies Using Folder. 





Methodology: 

Security 


Pick Up one ply from left side of the table and 

place it under the needle. 

Pick up the second ply from right extension 

and feed it into the folder. 

Align the two plies and position them under 

the needle. 

Start sewing by feeding the top ply through 

folder with right hand and holding the bottom 

ply with left hand. Align both plies while 

feeding for stitches. 


If it is plaid fabric maintain the checks 

symmetrically throughout the seam length. 


the needle. 



Goal: 

Illustration: 

Body Ply 


BK 02 

Yoke Ply 

Page | 182

Quality 

Maintain the checks symmetrically throughout the seam 

length. Avoid down stitch while sewing. 

Ergonomics 



Waste 


Ability to work with folder. 

Ability to stitch the straight seams. 


DNLS 


3 Bobbins 

Fabric plies & Thread trimmer 

Folder & ¼ “ CL Foot 

Page | 183

26. Pleats 

Machine: SNLS 

Exercise: Pleats 





Methodology: 

Security 


Pick Up the ply from lap and place it on 

Machine bed. 

Match the first 2 notches with fingers, lift the 

presser foot and rest it on the pleat fold with 

needle position at desired point of stitch. 

Sew the pleat. Match the next notch and 

repeat the steps 3 & 4 as many pleats are 

there. 

Dispose the fabric once all the pleats are sewn. 


the needle. 



Quality 

Maintain pleat depth as required. Sew the pleat within 

seam allowance. 


Illustration: 

Target For 5 Pleats. 

BK 01 

Fabric 20” x 5” (Notched) 

Page | 184

Ergonomics 



Waste 

Use The Fabric For PLK01 Later. 


Ability to make Pleats. 


SNLS 


2 Bobbins 


Page | 185

27. Mock yoke attach with folder 

Machine: DNLS 

Exercise: Mock yoke Attach with Folder. 





Methodology: 

Security 


Pick Up one ply from left side of the table and 

second ply from right extension, align and 

position under the needle. 

Pick up the third ply from the lap and feed it 

into the folder. 

Align the third ply with other two plies and 

position them under the needle. 

Start sewing by feeding the top ply through 

folder with right hand and holding the bottom 

ply with left hand. Align both plies while 

feeding for stitches. 


If it is plaid fabric maintain the checks 

symmetrically through out the seam length. 


the needle. 



Quality 

Maintain the checks symmetrically through out the 

seam length. Avoid down stitch while sewing. 

Goal: 

Illustration: 

Fabric 


BK 03 

Backs & Yokes Ready Cutting 

Body & Yoke 1 

Yoke 2 

Page | 186

Ergonomics 



Waste 


Ability to do yoke attaches using Folder. 

Ability to stitch the straight seams. 

Ability to handle 3 plies simultaneously while 

sewing 


DNLS 


3 Bobbins 

Fabric plies & Thread trimmer 

Folder & 1/ 4” CL Presser Foot 

Page | 187

28. Shoulder attach without folder 

Machine: SNLS 

Exercise: Shoulder Attach Without Folder 





Methodology: 

STEP 1. 

STEP 2. 

Security 


Open the bundle and clamp the pieces to the 

sloping table. 

Pick Up backs from clamp table and position 

top Yoke piece under the needle. Take front 

piece from pick up bar right to operator, align 

it with yoke edge and place it under needle. 

Sew straight and trim threads at the end of 

seam (UBT). 

Pick up the other front, align with second half 

of yoke and position them under Needle. 


seam (UBT). 

Now take the Piece out turn the bottom yoke 

over the above seam, align the edges and 

position under the needle. 


seam (UBT). 

Repeat steps 6 & 7 for the other front. 

Flip over and dispose the garment. 


the needle. 



Quality 

Avoid Collar center off due to uneven seam width at 

shoulder. 

Ergonomics 




Illustration: 

AS 01 

Backs From Yoke Attach & Fronts From Cutting 

STEP 1. 

STEP 2. 

Page | 188

Waste 

Use the same fabric for other assembly exercises. 


Ability to do shoulder attach operation in real time. 

Ability to handle 3 plies simultaneously. 

Page | 189


SNLS 


2 Bobbins 

Ready Backs & Fronts cuttings 

Trimmer 

Page | 190

Machine: DNLS 

Exercise: 29. Topstitch shoulder 





Methodology: 

Security 


Open the bundle and pick the piece with right 

hand from center runner and position the 

shoulder joint to be topstitched under needle. 

The fronts should lie to the right of the seam 

and backs to the left on machine bed as shown 

in figure. 

Hold and feed the garment with the palms of 

both hands resting and then moving parallel 

on either side of seam. 

Sew off and trim threads at the shoulder end 

(UBT) and position the next shoulder under 

the needle. 

Repeat step 4 and dispose to left of 

workstation. 


the needle. 



Quality 

No Down Stitches while sewing. 

Ergonomics 




Illustration: 

AS 02 

Fabric from AS01 Exercise 

Page | 191

WASTE 



Ability to topstitch shoulder on DNLS. 

Ability to handle larger parts. 


DNLS 


3 Bobbins 

Front & Back attached pieces. 

Page | 192

30. Shoulder attach using folder 

Machine: DNLS 

Exercise: Shoulder Attach Using Folder 





Methodology: 

STEP 1. 

Security 


Open the bundle and clamp the backs to the 

sloping table. Place left front on pick up bar 

and right fronts on the lap. 

Pick Up back from clamp table, left front from 

the pickup bar simultaneously. 

Feed the bottom yoke into the folder and 

then place left front over it. 

Feed the top Yoke into the folder align the 

three plies along the seam edge and position 

then Under presser foot. 

Sew straight by feeding bottom yoke and front 

with right hand and top yoke with the left 

hand. 

Sew off and trim at the shoulder end (UBT). 

Now Pick up the right front from the lap and 

repeat the steps 4, 5, 6 & 7. 

Flip over for waterfall disposal. 


the needle. 



Quality 

Avoid Collar center off due to uneven seam width at 

shoulder. 

No down stitches while sewing. 

Ergonomics 



Goal: 

Illustration: 


AS 03 

Page | 193

Waste 



Ability to do shoulder attach operation in real time. 

Ability to handle 3 plies simultaneously. 

Ability to work with Folder. 


DNLS 


3 Bobbins 

Ready Backs & Fronts cuttings 

Folder & ¼” CL Presser foot. 

Clamped Sloping Table 

Page | 194

31. Sew contour fabric to straight fabric 

Machine: SNLS 

Exercise: Sew Contour Fabric to straight Fabric. 





Methodology: 

Security 


Pickup Contour fabric with left hand from 

machine bed and straight ply with right hand 

from right extension simultaneously. 

Align the ends of both plies and position them 

under needle. 

Match and hold the first notch and sew along 

the contour by aligning them. 

Stop the needle and repeat the step 4 until 

you reach the other end. 



the needle. 



Quality 

Notches must be matched and plies to be aligned 

correctly along the edge. 

Ergonomics 



Goal: 

Illustration: 


AS 04 

Use Prepared Fabric & Contour Cut fabric for this 

Exercise 

Page | 195

Waste 

Use the same fabric for Collar closing operation. 


Ability to Sew along contour without stretch. 

Ability to sew in 2-3 bursts. 


SNLS 


2 Bobbins 

Page | 196

32. Mock collar attach 

Machine: SNLS / UBT 

Exercise: Mock Collar Attach 





Methodology: 

Security 


Pickup the body from left and collar from right 

extension simultaneously. 

Position neck of body under needle and then 

place and align collar over neck of body under 

the needle. 

Match and hold the first notch and sew along 

the contour by aligning them. 

Stop the needle and repeat the step 4 until 

you reach the other end. 

Sew off at the other end, trim threads (UBT) 

and dispose over center runner to the right. 


the needle. 



Quality 

Notches must be matched and plies to be aligned 

correctly along the edge. 


Illustration: 

Ready Collar 

Ready Body 

AS 05 

Page | 197

Ergonomics 



Waste 



Ability to do Collar attach Operation. 

Ability to handle one each of small and larger parts. 


SNLS 


2 Bobbins 

Ready Collars and bodies. 

Page | 198

33. Binding operations 

Machine: SNLS 

Exercise: Binding Operations. 





Methodology: 

STEP 1. 

Security 


Pickup plane ply with left hand from machine 

bed and u-ply from right extension 


Align both plies along seam edge and place 

them under needle. 


STEP 2. 

Pick up the end piece from above, turn and 

place the end of folded edge other side under 

the needle. 

Start sewing straight at an equi-margin from 

the folded edge. 



the needle. 




Illustration: 

AS 06 

Page | 199

Quality 

Avoid the visibility of attach stitches. 

Avoid down stitches on both faces. 

Ergonomics 



Waste 


Ability to attach two plies. 

Ability to turn and topstitch a fold. 


SNLS 


2 Bobbins 

2 Fabric plies. 

Page | 200

34. Mock collar finish 

Machine: SNLS 

Exercise: Mock Collar Finish 





Methodology: 

Security 


Pickup the body from center runner to right of 

workstation and position the Pick area under 

needle. 

Start Sewing along the pick edge and at the 

corner stop the needle insert body correctly 

and start sewing to other pick end. 

While sewing hold the collar pick fold with 

right hand and feed the body with left hand. 

Before reaching the other end of pick stop the 

needle align collar and body and then sew 

along pick edge. 

Trim threads at the end (UBT) and dispose on 

Left bar. 


the needle. 



Quality 

Collar stay stitch should not be visible. 

Avoid down stitches. 


Illustration: 

Ply 1 

AS 07 

Pcs From Mock Collar Attach 

Stitches 

Ply 2 

Page | 201

Ergonomics 



Waste 


Abilities 

Ability to do topstitch collar operation. 

Ability to handle larger parts. 


SNLS 


2 Bobbins 

Ready Body with collar attached. 

Page | 202

35. Lap seam along contour 

Machine: SNLS 

Exercise: Lap Seam along Contour 





Methodology: 

Security 


Pickup armhole contoured ply from machine 

bed with left hand and the sleeve ply from 

right extension simultaneously. 

Place the body ply under the presser foot. 

Take the sleeve ply and place it at a distance 

3/8” margin from the body ply seam edge. 

Now fold the bigger ply edge over the smaller 

ply and position under the needle. 

Match the notches on both plies, align the 

plies and Start sewing straight while folding 

the body ply edge with left hand and feeding 

the sleeve ply with right hand. Continue this 

step until you finish stitching at the other end. 

Sew off at the end and dispose in chain. 


the needle. 




Illustration: 

AS 08 

Mock Fabric Cuts As Shown in Fig. 

Page | 203

Quality 

Maintain the equal fold edge throughout seam. Avoid 

drop stitches. 

Match the notches exactly. 

Ergonomics 



Waste 

Uses the same fabrics for topstitch sleeve operation 

exercise. 


Ability to do lap seam along the contour. Useful 

while doing sleeve attach operations. 


SNLS 


2 Bobbins 

Mock plies as shown in figure. 

Page | 204

36. Mock sleeve attach operation (Lap Seam) 

Machine: SNLS 

Exercise: Mock Sleeve Attach Operation 

(Lap Seam) 





Methodology: 

Security 


Pickup body from rack to left of WS and 

position the armhole end under the presser 

foot. 

Now pickup the sleeve from the rack also with 

left hand and align with the armhole and 

position at a distance of 3/8” from the edge of 

armhole. 

Now fold the armhole edge over the sleeve 

and position under the needle. 

Match the notches on both armhole and 

sleeve, align them and Start sewing straight 

while folding the body edge with left hand and 

feeding the sleeve with right hand. Continue 

this step until you finish stitching at the other 

end. 

Sew off and trim the threads at the end (UBT) 

and dispose to bar on right. 


the needle. 



Quality 

Avoid drop stitches. Match the notches while sewing. 


Illustration: 

Sleeves ready cut 

AS 09 

Body from Collar attach Operation 

Page | 205

Ergonomics 



Waste 



Ability to attach sleeves to body. 

Ability to handle bigger parts. 


SNLS 


2 Bobbins 

Ready bodies & Sleeves. 

Page | 206

37. Lap seam along contour using folder 

Machine: SNLS 

Exercise: Lap Seam along Contour using folder 





Methodology: 

Security 


Pickup armhole contoured ply from machine 

bed with left hand and the sleeve ply from 

right extension simultaneously. 

Place the body ply through folder and position 

under the presser foot. Take the sleeve ply and 

place it on the body ply through the lap fold. 

Match the notches on both plies, align the 

plies and Start sewing straight while holding 

the body ply edge with left hand and feeding 

the sleeve ply with right hand. 

Continue the above step until you finish 

stitching at the other end. 



the needle. 



Quality 

Maintain the equal fold edge throughout seam. Avoid 

drop stitches. 

Match the notches exactly. 

Goal: 

Illustration: 

USING FOLDER 


AS 10 

Page | 207

Ergonomics 



Waste 

Uses the same fabrics for topstitch sleeve operation 

exercise. 


Ability to do lap seam along the contour. Useful 

while doing sleeve attach operations. 


SNLS 


2 Bobbins 

2 plies as shown in figure. 

Folder 

Page | 208

38. Mock sleeve attach operation (Lap seam) with folder 

Machine: SNLS 

Exercise: Mock Sleeve Attach Operation 


(Lap Seam) with Folder 




Methodology: 

Security 


Pickup body from rack to left of WS, pass it 

through folder and position the armhole end 

under the presser foot. 

Now pickup the sleeve from the rack also with 

left hand and place it on armhole inside the 

fold. 

Match the notches on both armhole and 

sleeve, align them and Start sewing straight 

while holding the body edge with left hand 

and feeding the sleeve with right hand. 

Continue this step until you finish stitching at 

the other end. 

Sew off and trim the threads at the end (UBT) 

and dispose to bar on right. 


the needle. 



Quality 

Avoid drop stitches. Match the notches while sewing. 

Goal: 

Illustration: 


AS 11 

Page | 209

Ergonomics 



Waste 



Ability to attach sleeves to body. 

Ability to handle bigger parts. 


SNLS 


2 Bobbins 

Ready bodies & Sleeves. 

Folder 

Page | 210

39. Topstitch along contour over lap seam 

Machine: DNLS 

Exercise: Topstitch along contour over lap seam. 





Methodology: 

Security 


Pickup the piece from the pickup bar left to 

WS and position the end of armhole joint 


Start sewing along the contour following the 

margin with both the palms on either side 

guiding the stitch. 



the needle. 



Quality 

Avoid down stitches. Maintain topstitch at consistent 

margin from the edge. 

Ergonomics 



Waste 

Goal: 

15 Sec 

Illustration: 


AS 12 

Page | 211


Ability to do topstitches along contour with DNLS. 


DNLS 


3 Bobbins 

Ready piece as shown in figure. 

Page | 212

40. Topstitch along contour over lap seam using folder 

Machine: DNLS 

Exercise: Topstitch along contour over lap seam using 

Folder. 





Methodology: 

Security 


Pickup the piece from the pickup bar left to 

WS and pass the end of armhole joint through 

folder and position the end under the needle. 

Start sewing along the contour following the 

margin with both the palms on either side 




the needle. 



Quality 


margin from the edge. 

Ergonomics 



Goal: 

Illustration: 


AS 13 

Page | 213

Waste 


Ability to do topstitches along contour with DNLS. 


DNLS 


3 Bobbins 

Ready piece as shown in figure. 

Folder & ¼” CR presser foot. 

Page | 214

41. Topstitch sleeve attach 

Machine: DNLS 

Exercise: Topstitch Sleeve attach 





Methodology: 

Security 


Pick up the piece from pickup bar or haunch 

back to the left of operator and position the 

area to be topstitched under the needle with 

sleeve extending to right as shown in figure. 

Start sewing along the sleeve edge following 

the margin with both palms on either side 


At the end of the seam cut the threads (UBT). 

Remove the piece and position the other 

armhole area under the needle as explained in 

step 2. 

Repeat the step 3 and 4 and dispose the piece 

to the center runner. 


the needle. 



Quality 


margin from the edge. Follow line balancing if any. 

Goal:45 Seconds Exercise Number AS 14 

Illustration: 

Page | 215

Ergonomics 



Waste 



Ability to do Topstitches with DNLS. 

Ability to handle whole garment. 


DNLS 


3 Bobbins 

Ready Body with collar and sleeve attached. 

Page | 216

42. Topstitch sleeve attach using folder 

Machine: DNLS 

Exercise: Topstitch Sleeve attach using Folder 





Methodology: 

Security 


Pick up the piece from pickup bar or haunch 

back to the left of operator and pass the area 

to be topstitched through the folder and 

position the end under the needle with sleeve 

extending to right as shown in figure. 

Start sewing along the sleeve edge following 

the margin with both palms on either side 


At the end of the seam cut the threads (UBT). 

Remove the piece and position the other 

armhole area under the needle as explained in 

step 2. 

Repeat the step 3 and 4 and dispose the piece 

to the center runner. 


the needle. 



Quality 


margin from the edge. Follow line balancing if any. 

Goal: 

Illustration: 

Using folder 

Exercise Number AS 15 

Page | 217

Ergonomics 



Waste 



Ability to do Topstitches with DNLS. 

Ability to handle whole garment. 


DNLS 


3 Bobbins 

Ready Body with collar and sleeve attached. 

Folder & ¼” CR foot. 

Page | 218

43. Hemming long contours (Curved) 

Machine: SNLS 

Exercise: Hemming Long Contours. (Curved) 





Methodology 

Security 


Pick the piece from haunch back or Stand left 

to the Operator and place it on table. Fold 

3/8”at the rounded Corner (Turn & Turn) and 

position it under needle. 

Back Tack at the end; Turn the fold by 90 

degrees with needle down Position and Start 

Sewing along the contour by folding the width 

with the right hand and guiding the piece 

along using left hand. 

At the other end turn the fabric again by 90 

degrees and back tack. 

Cut the threads and dispose to the disposal 

bar or center runner. 


the needle. 



Quality 

Maintain the uniform folded width of 3/8” along the 

contour. “ Roping “ must not be there along the seam. 

No Down stitches allowed. 

Goal: 

Illustration: 


AS 19 

Fabric Cuts As Shown in Fig. 

Page | 219

Ergonomics 



Waste 

Use the same fabric for Straight Bottom Hem. 


Ability to hem Rounded edges. 

Ability to handle large garments while 

manually folding the hem. 


SNLS 


2 Bobbins 

Mock Pcs as Shown in fig. & Trimmer 

Page | 220

44. Long straight hemming 

Machine: SNLS 

Exercise: Long Straight Hemming 





Methodology 

Security 



to the Operator and place it on table. Fold 1”at 

the (Turn & Turn) and position it under 

needle. 


degrees with needle down Position and Start 

Sewing along the edge by folding the width 

with the right hand and guiding the piece 

along using left hand. 

At the other end turn the fabric again by 90 

degrees and back tack. 

Cut the threads and dispose to the Disposal 

Bar or Center runner. 


the needle. 



Quality 

Maintain the uniform folded width of 1” along the 



Goal: 

Illustration: 


AS 20 


Page | 221

Ergonomics 



Waste 

Use the same fabric for Curved Bottom Hem at the 

opposite edge if not done. 


Ability to Fold (Turn & Turn) and hem for 

longer seams. 




SNLS 


2 Bobbins 


T- Guide & 1/16” CL Presser Foot 

Page | 222

45. Hemming long contours (Curved) using folder 

Machine: SNLS 

Exercise: Hemming Long Contours. (Curved) Using 

Folder 





Methodology 

Security 



to the Operator and place it on table. Fold 

3/8”at the rounded Corner (Turn & Turn) and 

position it under needle. 


degrees with needle down Position, Set the 

folder and feed the edge to be bottom folded 

into it. 

Start Sewing along the contour by feeding the 

folded width with the right hand and guiding 

the piece along using left hand. 

At the other end, remove the folder, turn the 

fabric again by 90 degrees and back tack. 

Cut the threads and dispose to the disposal 

bar or center runner. 


the needle. 



Quality 

Maintain the uniform folded width of 3/8” along the 



Ergonomics 



Waste 

Use the same fabric for Straight Bottom Hem. 

Goal: 

Illustration: 

Exercise Number AS 21 

Using Folder 


Page | 223


Ability to hem Rounded edges. 




SNLS 


2 Bobbins 


1/16” CL Foot & Folder F503 

Magnetic guide 

Page | 224

46. Long straight hemming using folder 

Machine: SNLS 

Exercise: Long Straight Hemming using Folder 





Methodology 

Security 



to the Operator and place it on table. Fold 1”at 

the (Turn & Turn) and position it under 

needle. 


degrees with needle down Position, set the 

folder and feed the edge to be bottom folded 

into it. 

Start Sewing along the edge by feeding the 

folded width with the right hand and guiding 

the piece along using left hand. 

At the other end, Remove the Folder, turn the 

fabric again by 90 degrees and back tack. 

Cut the threads and dispose to the Disposal 

Bar or Center runner. 


the needle. 



Quality 

Maintain the uniform folded width of 1” along the 



Ergonomics 



Waste 

Use the same fabric for Curved Bottom Hem at the 

opposite edge if not done. 

Goal: 

Illustration: 


AS 22 

Operation Using Folder 

Mock Fabric Cuts As Shown in Fig. 

Page | 225


Ability to Fold (Turn & Turn) and hem for 

longer seams. 




SNLS 


2 Bobbins 


T- Guide & 1/16” CL Presser Foot 

Folder F505 

Page | 226

CHAPTER - XII 

DIFFERENT TYPES OF SEWING ATTACHMENTS AND USE ON MACHINE 

Page | 227

Type of Attachments 

1. Various Collar Operations 

Hems the collar band before it is attached to the 

collar Please specify hem size and stitch margin. 

We recommend an edge guide foot to maintain 

proper margins 

Foot and Guide assist in turning and top 

stitching front and back collar bands after they 

have been sewn to the collar. 

Produces a consistent stitch margin along the 

bead. 

Page | 228

2. Yoking and Shoulder Joining: 

This folder turn down the top ply and joins it 

to two additional plys. The bottom ply is then 

turned back to form the yoke. Special foot is 

recommended. 

Used to attach the yoke to the front and back panels of the shirt. 

Both folders can be made left or right. 

Foot and Guide assist in turning and top 

stitching front and back collar bands after they 

have been sewn to the collar. Produces a 

consistent stitch margin along the bead. 

Page | 229

3. Pocket Hemming 

This attachment is used to hem the tops of pockets. Many different folder styles are available to suit 

your particular need. 

Please specify finished size, stitch margin, and the amount of in tuck required. 

Special presser foot recommended. 

Page | 230

4. Cuff Hemming - Short Sleeve 

In addition to the plain hemmer, a variety of folders are available for finishing short sleeves. Two of 

the most popular are illustrated below. 

These folders may also be used to hem the tops of pockets 

Produces tailored cuff on knit and dress shirts. 

May be used on lockstitch or chainstitch 

machines. Stripes and plaids are easily matched. 

Piping and other types of trim may also be 

added. 

Special edge guide foot is recommended. 

5. Tail Hemming 

Produces a tailored cuff on knit and dress shirts. 

Must be used on lockstitch machines. 

Special foot is recommended. 

No. 209 The #209 hinged foot hemmer is available in a 3/16" finish. The hinged 

feature allows for some give as you cross over the side seam. 

No. 209A Foot Hemmer is also available with AIR JET, which helps eliminate loose 

thread strands. 

No. 210 The swing hemmer is used for straighter runs and is available with a spring 

for side seams. The swing out bracket is recommended for easy finishing. 

Special presser foot recommended. 

Page | 231

Page | 232

6. Button Stay Hemming 

No. 211 Upturned hemmer with lining for use on lockstitch machines. Various 

styles are available with or without lining. Special presser foot 

recommended. 

No. 211A Downturned hemmer for use on chainstitch machines. Special presser 

foot recommended. 

No. 211B This picture illustrates a button stay hemmer with a separate strip added 

underneath. Bottom stripper available with or without lining. Used on 

double needle chainstitch machines. 

Page | 233

7. Cuff Hemming - Long Sleeve 

For use on lockstitch machines with lining and 

face goods in short pieces. 

Hemmer is adjustable to allow for different size 

lining and face goods. 

Please specify hem size and stitch margin. 

Special presser foot is recommended. 

For use on chainstitch machines with lining in rolls 

and face goods in pieces or rolls. 

Hemmer is adjustable to accommodate different size 

lining and face goods. 

Please specify hem size and stitch margin. Special 

presser is recommended. 

Page | 234

8. Setting Sleeve Plackets 

Used to sew a continuous facing around the 

sleeve opening. 

Folder is designed for easy loading of short 

pieces. Edge guide foot is recommended. 

9. Closing Side Seams 

Lap Seam Folders 

Lap seam folders are used to close side seams. 

Designed for sewing short pieces in straight runs on 

the sleeve opening. 

Folders are available in top and bottom sets when cut 

sizes of top and bottom placket strips are different. 

Edge guide foot is recommended. 

Folder available with separate width adjustment. Lap seam folder can also be made with a spring 

release which will allow sleeve seam to pass through freely. 

Please specify make and gauge of machine and send material with a sample of the sleeve seams. 

Page | 235

10. Sleeve Setting 

There are two types of variations for the Sleeve Setting 

Single Needle Sleeving 

Set of guides for joining the armhole to the sleeve 

on high quality shirts. 

Adjustable margin settings. Special presser foot is 

recommended. 

Turns the sleeve up as the body is pulled over and stitched 

down. 

Produces a quality finish and appearance. Special presser 

foot is recommended. 

Page | 236

Imitation Single Needle Sleeving 

Folder hems the sleeve and joins it to the body, using a double needle machine. 

Compensating Foot is used on second top stitching operation. 

11. Attach Center Placket 

Top Center Folder 

Attaches the center plait to the shirt body. Folder features a separate concave lining track which 

allows easier starts for all types of fabrics and a tight finish around the lining. 

Bed plate mount or swing bracket mount is available. Body hemmer provided with folder. 

Please specify: men or ladies' shirt-lining from right or left. 

Page | 237

Used to make a one piece shirt front by hemming the shirt body itself. 

Folder features a separate concave lining track which helps produce a tight finish. 

Available in left hand (ladies'-neck start) and right hand (men's-neck start) models. 

Used to eliminate shading problems and to match stripes and plaids. 

Please Specify: man's or ladies' shirt-lining from right or left. 

A variation of the imitation Center Front Folder for use on Men's and ladies' sport shirts. 

The top of the front conceals the button hole which is sewn on the bottom tuck. 

Page | 238

Attach Center Placket 

(Horn Style Placket Folder) 

Sometimes referred to as "Horn Type Top Center" or "Wrap Folder". 

Used to sew a front, primarily on ladies' dress shirts and "pullover" type sport shirts. 

Available with or without lining. Material generally cut in short pieces, but can also be cut in rolls. 

Page | 239


(French Front Folder) 

Generally used on first quality men's shirts. Available for single and double needle machines. 

Available with or without lining. 


Plastic Presser Foot 

Clear plastic feet are used in conjunction 

with the center front operation. 

The transparent feature allows the 

operator to match stripes and plaids 

more easily. Available for most multineedle 

machines. 

Page | 240


Top Center with Double Lining Track 

Allows use of either single ply or full wrap lining. 

Available for bed plate mount or swing up mount. 

12. Pleat Gauge 

Pleat Gauge 

Used for decorative trim on shirt pockets, as wella s back and front body pleats. 

Made for most double needle machines. 

Face goods may be in pieces or rolls - lining must be in rolls. Several pleat styles are available. 

Page | 241

CHAPTER – XIII 

MONTHLY SCHEDULE FOR SEWING MACHINE OPERATOR TRAINING PROGRAMME 

Page | 242

Name: Starting Date: 

Prior experience (Operations): Ending Date: 

Trainer’s Name: 

Sl. 

No. 

Target 

Day 

Name 

Start 

Date 

End 

Date 

Target 

1 Simult- Pin Board (RH) 45 sec 

2 aneous Pin Board (LH) 90 sec 

3 

4 

2 

Pedal control at max speed (Pe1) 

Precise stops at max speed (Pe2) 

6 sec 

5 sec 

5 3 Straight stitches at max speed (Pe3) 10 sec 

6 4 Change direction with needle down (Pe4) 8 sec 

7 5 Judging changes of direction (Pe5) 16 sec 

8 5.5 Swing curve with one hand (Pe6) 6 sec 

9 6.5 Swing in circles (Pe7) 34 sec 

10 7 Swing curves (Pe8) 5 sec 

11 

OL – Swing straight line (Pe9) 10 sec 

12 8.5 OL – exact stop (Pe10) 20 sec 

13 OL – Straight lines and curves (Pe11) 15 sec 

14 

Cleaning machine (Me0) 35 sec 

15 Threading machine (Me1) 40 sec 

16 Re threading machine (Me2) 8 sec 

17 Changing bobbin (Me3) 12 sec 

18 Changing needle (Me4) 8 sec 

19 Changing colour of thread (Me5) 25 sec 

20 10 Sew endless loop (Fe0) 

21 Sew 6” x 6”, sewing off (Fe1) 15 sec 

22 11 Sew 6” x 6”, Staying within (Fe2) 18 sec 

23 Sew 6” x 6”, Back tack (Fe3) 21 sec 

24 12 Sew 3 sides 6” x 12” (Fe4) 21 sec 

25 12” x 6”, Top stitch (Fe5) 14 sec 

26 13 Back tack 12” x 12”, (Fe6) 20 sec 

27 14 Hemming 6”x6” in chain (5 pcs)(Fe7) 30 sec 

28 15 Attach Pocket (Fe8) 45 sec 

29 16 Cuff Run stitch 45 sec 

30 16 Cuff top stitch 33 sec 

31 17 Collar Run stitch 35 sec 

32 18 Collar top stitch 29 sec 

33 19 Collar pick ready 60 sec 

34 20 Sleeve Plackets attach 51 sec 

35 21 Sleeve Plackets finishing 120 sec 

36 23 Back yoke attach & Edge stitch 60 sec 

37 24 Shoulder attach &Edge stitch 60 sec 

38 25 Collar attaching & finishing 81 sec 

39 27 Side seam attach 120 sec 

40 28 Bottom hemming 50 sec 

41 29 Sleeve attaching 39 sec 

42 30 Sleeve Finishing 45 sec 

Parallel with FE 

Exercise 

2 nd best 

time 

Page | 243 

Remarks

sewing machine operations mannual prepared by: orient craft - smallB

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