Krakow - In Your Pocket

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N°80
Poland - 5zł (w tym 8% VAT)
UK - £5
EU (excl. Poland & UK) - €3
krakow.inyourpocket.com
ISSN 1508-2334
KRAKÓW
February - March 2013
“In Your Pocket: A cheeky, well-
written series of guidebooks.”
The New York Times
Płaszów
Kraków’s forgotten
concentration camp
Polish Dessert
Guide
Our list of reasons for
skipping dinner

4
CONTENTS
Contents
Feature
Płaszów concentration camp 8
Arrival & Transport 12
Public Transport Map
The Basics 18
Culture & Events 20
Hotels 25
Restaurants 34
Cafés 64
Nightlife
Bars & Pubs 67
Clubs 72
Kazimierz Nightlife 76
It’s all well and good to eat ‘Jewish fare’ on Szeroka Street,
listen to a klezmer concert and visit Schindler’s Factory
(p.99) while you’re in town, but it also ignores the same
reality that the city has been largely ignoring since the war
ended: that there’s a concentration camp in its back yard.
We’re not saying you have to go there, but if you’re curious,
we give you the history and tell you how in our Płaszów
feature on p.8. [Photo: Paweł Krzan, krzan.pl, krakow4u.pl]
Kraków In Your Pocket
One of our favourite things about the Polish holiday calendar
is that after all the overwrought Catholic earnestness of the
Christmas season, February and March give way to two of
the most absurd celebrations we’ve heard of anywhere.
First, it’s Fat Thursday on Feb 7 th , a national day devoted
to eating deep-fried doughnuts (p.62). If that seems
imprudent, things get downright pagan on the spring
equinox, with widespread witch burnings (p.28). About
the doughnuts, they’re called ‘pączki’ (pictured above)
and we detail them alongside other classic Polish sweets
in our dessert guide on p.65. As for the witch burnings,
well Easter quickly comes along to hose that fire (p.33).
[Photo: Flickr user Mel Sharlene CC BY-SA 2.0]
History 78
Sightseeing 80
Old Town 82
Wawel 91
Kazimierz 94
Podgórze 98
Salwator 102
Nowa Huta 104
Further Afield
Wieliczka 108
Auschwitz 111
Tarnów 114
Tyskie 118
Leisure 119
Shopping 122
Directory 128
Maps & Index
City Centre Map 131
City Map 132
Nowa Huta Map 134
Country Map 135
Street Register 136
Listings Index 137
Features Index 138
krakow.inyourpocket.com

6
FOREWORD
Well, isn’t this lovely. It’s months like February and
March that make us wonder if Poland got its name for
having similar climate conditions to other geographic
regions referred to as Poles, but then you probably
don’t need us to tell you that it’s absolutely arctic
here these days. We assume you packed your winter
woollies and grew a gigantic beard before making
the trip. Although it may be cold enough to freeze a
lava flow, there is an upside: namely, you’re in one of
Europe’s most beautiful and historic cities (UNESCO
said so) and nothing looks better on a medieval castle
(p.91) than a fresh dusting of snow. And though the
news was just announced that Kraków set a new
tourist record in 2012 with 9 million visitors (bravo,
we did our part), you won’t have to worry about them
crowding out your camera lens this time of year. This
little snow globe is yours alone to shake, but that’s not
to suggest that local culture has gone into hibernation.
There’s still a ream of regular concerts happening
from classical to nautical – specifically, February’s
Sea Shanties Festival (p.22), which is an editorial fave
(don’t snigger, our timbers are literally shivering in
anticipation), plus a plethora of magnificent museums
to make you warm and wise. For maximum bleakness
follow our feature on Płaszów (p.8) to get friendly with
the ghosts of WWII. Whatever your fancy, as you’d
expect, we got every option covered in encyclopaedic
detail within the pages of this guide, from spas and
saunas to snowy sleigh rides (p.121), from sweaty
dancehalls (p.72) to fire-breathing dragons (p.93). If
you didn’t notice, it’s our 80 th issue (thank you, thank
you, you’re too kind), and while that would usually be
cause for celebration, we think we drank the city dry of
champagne last month. Instead, order yourself a hot
beer (p.67) or some of the local firewater (p.70), pull
a chair up to the nearest fireplace and enjoy reading
Kraków In Your Pocket. It’s been our pleasure
putting this guide together and we hope you’ll put it
to good use. As always, let us know how you fared at
editor_poland@inyourpocket.com, and don’t hesitate
to drop some comments on our website: krakow.
inyourpocket.com. We love it when you do that.
Publisher
IYP City Guides Sp. z o.o. Sp.k.
ul. Sławkowska 12, 31-014 Kraków
Company Office & Accounts
Joanna Szlosowska
58 555 08 31
krakow@inyourpocket.com
www.inyourpocket.com
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Kraków In Your Pocket
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Writer/Editor Garrett Van Reed
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krakow.inyourpocket.com

8
PŁASZÓW
Płaszów concentration camp at its height in 1944.
It’s hard to go anywhere in Poland without being reminded of
one of the darkest chapters in the history of humanity, and
Kraków, for all of its beautiful and intoxicating diversions,
really shouldn’t be any different. While hundreds of tourists
use Kraków as a jumping-off point for visiting Auschwitz-
Birkenau, few seem to realise that Kraków actually has a
former concentration camp in its own backyard. Across
the river, deep in Podgórze, a large the tract of land goes
undeveloped and largely unvisited, despite being in one of
the city’s most desirable commercial and residential areas
– alongside a major thoroughfare (ul. Wielicka), across from
the city’s largest shopping mall (Bonarka City Centre) and a
short walk from a major tourist attraction (Krakus Mound),
no less. This is the former site of the Plaszów concentration
camp, today an expansive field of uneven terrain covered in
grass, weeds, stones and a story that is hardly broached
upon its own hallowed grounds. If you think you aren’t
familiar with it, well actually, you are. It was here that the
real-life events of one of the most well-known Holocaust
stories – brought into popular consciousness by Steven
Spielberg’s blockbuster film Schindler’s List – took place.
When Schindler’s enamel factory (K-4) opened to the public
as a museum in 2010 it gave the city a place to tell that
story and address its own history under Nazi occupation.
The site of the former Płaszów concentration camp itself,
however, remains largely as it was when the Nazis abandoned
it close to 70 years ago. In contrast to Auschwitz there are
no professional tour guides here, no informative displays,
no hand holding, no suggestions on how to experience the
space – simply a poorly signposted place of reflection. A
challenge to access even on foot, those intrepid enough to
make the journey will find few places of interest aside from
a couple buildings that hide their history, a few memorials
and an impressive monument to the victims who perished
Getting There
Due to its size and the fact that there is no prescribed
route, there are several ways to get to the territory of
the former Płaszów camp. If you have a car you can drive
around to the southern side of the camp and park on the
side of the road across from Castorama on ul. Henryka
Kamienskiego within view of the ‘Memorial of Torn-Out
Hearts.’ It is also possible to park on the eastern side by
driving up ul. Wielicka, turning right onto ul. Jerozolimska
(K-5) and parking near the ‘Grey House.’
Without a car, the most straight-forward approach is
to take tram numbers 3, 6, 9, 13, 23, 24, 50 or 69 and
get off at the ‘Cmentarz Podgórski’ stop. Walk a couple
blocks down ul. Wielicka in the same direction the tram
was travelling and make a right onto ul. Jerozolimska
(K-5). This will take you to the ‘Grey House’ on the east
side of the camp (10mins total).
here. In that sense Płaszów is more of a pilgrimage than a
destination, and rewards those who walk its obscure paths
with the opportunity to engage the past without any pressure
or pretence. This is the most horrific place in Kraków; and
the most peaceful.
History
Before World War II Kraków was home to some 65,000 Jews,
who under Nazi occupation beginning in September 1939
faced almost immediate persecution. Under the directive
of Nazi commander Hans Frank, ‘resettlement’ (largely to
labour camps in the east) began in late 1940 and by the time
of the establishment of the Kraków Ghetto in March 1941,
their numbers had been reduced to some 16,000 individuals
crammed into a 20 hectare (50 acre) space in Podgórze,
across the river from the Jewish district of Kazimierz (for
more on the Kraków Ghetto see our online feature). In early
1942 the Nazis began to initiate Hitler’s ‘Final Solution’ for
the annihilation of European Jewry, ramping up terror in the
Kraków Ghetto with increased round-ups, deportations and
street executions that resulted in the gradual reduction of
the size and population of the ghetto.
At the same time, the building of the Płaszów camp (which
would precipitate the ghetto’s liquidation) was underway on
the other side of the Krzemionki hills which overlooked the
ghetto. Only four kilometres from Kraków’s market square,
the site was chosen for its proximity to a handy railroad
station, existing labour camp in the nearby quarry (see
Liban, Podgórze Sightseeing) and its convenient location
on top of two Jewish cemeteries – the old Jewish cemetery
at ul. Jerozolimska 25, and new Jewish cemetery at ul.
Abrahama 3, the latter of which had just been established
ten years prior and included an absolutely immaculate two
wing pre-burial hall with three cupolas. This monumental
building was retained and used by the Germans as a horse
stable and pigsty throughout the life of the camp, however
both cemeteries were levelled with the shattered tombstones
used to cobble the lanes of the camp and whole tombstones
used as pavers to create the main road. This was a typical
Nazi practice for further humiliating their victims.
First established as a forced labour camp in the summer of
1942, Płaszów soon became a favoured execution site for
the Nazis as cattle cars full of children, the elderly and infirm
were sent from the ghetto only to be systematically murdered
and fill mass graves at the camp. Built with the sweat of
slave labour, from autumn 1942 all those deemed ‘fit to
work’ commuted every day from the ghetto to participate
in the construction of their future prison and from January
1943 many no longer returned to the ghetto, but stayed in
the unfinished camp barracks. When Amon Goeth arrived
to take over as Płaszów camp commandant he wasted little
time, speeding construction of the camp and liquidating the
Kraków Ghetto only a month later. On March 13 th and 14th,
1943, some 6,000 Jews (some accounts claim as many as
8,000) were permanently transported from the ghetto to
Płaszów; 3,000 were sent by cattle car directly to the gas
chambers of Auschwitz-Birkenau and some 1,000-2,000
(accounts vary) others were shot in the street, their bodies
later transported to Płaszów and buried in mass graves.
After Goeth’s arrival, and coinciding with the organised
implementation of the camp system across Eastern Europe,
Płaszów developed rapidly, becoming a destination for many
Jews and political prisoners from southern Poland and
beyond. Conditions were abysmal; following the liquidation
of the Kraków Ghetto the average barracks contained 150
inmates in a space of about 80 metres, and by the summer
Kraków In Your Pocket krakow.inyourpocket.com

PŁASZÓW
PŁASZÓW
10 11
Memorial commemorating Hungarian Jewish women;
Memorial of Torn Out Hearts in the distance
Photo: Paweł Krzan, krzan.pl, krakow4u.pl
of 1943 the number of inmates had ballooned from a mere
2,000 before the liquidation to over 12,000. At the camp’s
height in 1944 it is estimated that there were 25,000
prisoners interred within the camp, which covered some
81 hectares (200 acres) surrounded by four kilometres of
electrified barbed wire. Twelve watchtowers equipped with
machine guns and spotlights guarded the camp.
As the camp expanded, separate living quarters were
established for the men and women, Poles and Jews, as
well as an administrative sector for the SS officers. Other
features of the camp included a large roll call square, hospital,
mess hall, isolation cells, stables, bathhouse, bakery and the
various workshops where inmates worked extremely long
hours without rest or enough food to stave off starvation.
In addition to the many on-site workshops, inmates also
provided free labour to several local factories, Oskar
Schindler’s enamelware factory in Podgórze among them.
Slave labour or not, having such a job (which provided a small
amount of security to many Jews who were quite skilled) was
certainly preferable to not having one, and immensely better
than working in one of the two limestone quarries located
at Plaszów, which was essentially a death sentence. Many
women were also employed in the quarries, hauling carts
of stone along the rail lines that had been laid within the
camp; the average life expectancy for quarry workers was
a mere matter of weeks. Prisoners also faced death from
disease (typhus and malaria were rampant in the camp),
starvation, and the cruelty of their captors. The Płaszów
camp and its staff, led by Amon Goeth who took pleasure in
arbitrarily murdering the inmates, made themselves famous
for their sadistic treatment of the camp’s prisoners. Personal
accounts from Płaszów portray Goeth as a mass murderer
instructing his staff to make sport out of the suffering and
execution of the inmates.
From January 1944, Płaszów was officially designated as
an independent concentration camp with satellite camps
established in Wieliczka and Mielec. Jews from smaller
camps and ghettos that were being liquidated across
Poland, Czechoslovakia, Hungary and Romania were sent
to Płaszów, however many of them never made it inside the
camp. Covered transport trucks full of Jews arrived several
times a week and were taken directly to one of two mass
execution sites where the condemned were shot, thrown
into a mass grave and covered in dirt, layer upon layer. Plans
to install a crematorium at the camp were drawn but never
developed, with the efficiency of Auschwitz-Birkenau in this
regard – to which many transports from Płaszów were sent
– likely being a factor.
Calculating the number of people who lost their lives at
the camp is impossible; a rough estimate of the number of
prisoners interred here over its short history would be in the
neighbourhood of 150,000, but Nazi records fail to give us
anything more than a speculative guess. Liquidation of the
camp began in early January 1945, with the last prisoners
leaving on death marches to Auschwitz; those who reached
it were killed in the gas chambers immediately upon arrival.
As the Soviet Army approached Kraków the camp was
completely dismantled (including the Jewish pre-burial hall),
the primary mass graves were exhumed, the bodies burned
and the ashes spread over the site. What the Soviets saw
upon arrival largely resembles what visitors will see when
visiting the former grounds of the camp today – a barren field.
Approximately 2,000 Poles and Jews who passed through
Płaszów are known to have survived the war; 1,000 of these
were the ‘Schindler Jews’ who escaped from Kraków to
Brunnlitz before the war’s end.
What To See
Today almost nothing remains of the complex and sprawling
concentration camp, which covered over 80 hectares in
Płaszów – today a district of Podgórze. In comparison
to other Nazi prison camps, Płaszów was extremely well
dismantled and has since been the subject of almost no
historical excavations or on-site documentation. Those
private homes which were commandeered by the Nazis and
incorporated into the camp were returned to their owners
after the war and today sit on the fringes of the former camp
as inauspiciously as any other house in the area. On one part
of the former camp grounds an apartment block has been
built. As a result it is very difficult to imagine what the camp
may have looked like during the war. Visitors are left to their
own imaginations and private thoughts while walking through
the grounds, keeping their eyes peeled for traces of the past
and the few monuments scattered about. Though difficult
to find (without our help), several points of interest do exist,
and we encourage visitors to make the walk from the north
side of the camp to the large, easily visible monument to
its victims on the southern side, taking in as many of these
sites as possible en route. As you do, of course, bear in
The ‘Grey House’ Zygmunt Put, Wikipedia CC BY-SA 3.0
mind that though the area looks like nothing more than an
unmaintained public park, this is actually a sacred place
of remembrance. In addition to whatever remains exist
from the two Jewish cemeteries once located on this site,
it is estimated that the remains of 8,000-10,000 Płaszów
prisoners are still located within the immediate area of the
camp grounds. As a few obscure signs (the only evidence
of city acknowledgement of the camp, aside from a few
monuments) near the edges of the former camp clearly state:
“Please respect the grievous history of this site.”
The North End of the Camp
If we approach the camp from ul. Jerozolimska (K-5, see
Getting There), we have the greatest chance of seeing the most
points of interest. This was also the main entrance into the
camp, leading as it does from near the Kraków-Płaszów train
station (L-5) to some of the limestone deposits the inmates
were forced to quarry. At the corner of ul. Jerozolimska and
ul. Abrahama (which turns from a paved road between the
apartments blocks into a dirt trail leading into the camp) we can
feel that we are now inside the former camp, and a sign across
the road tells us as much. On this corner at ul. Jerozolimska 3
stands the infamous ‘Grey House’, used as a prison and torture
chamber by the SS during the camp’s existence. Turning right
onto ul. Abrahama, which once ran through the middle of the
camp, you’ll find a small monument only about 20 metres from
the Grey House. Though not directly related to the camp (which
was yet to be built), this memorial remembers the site where 13
Poles were murdered by the Nazis on September 10 th , 1939 –
the first mass execution of WWII in Kraków. Across the path to
the left we may be able to see the camp’s limestone deposits
and even find the entrances to three anti-aircraft shelters
carved into the rock by prisoners. A recently paved path to the
right leads to another monument close behind Grey House, this
one with a roof to protect it, and also not related to the camp
(notice the trend), but to the Jewish Cemetery that formerly
stood here. This new tombstone marks the burial place of
Sara Schenirer, founder of the Beth Jacob School – the first
religious school for girls in Kraków (1917), which became a
model for Jewish schools all over Poland in her time (over 300
before she died in 1935), and for many schools in Israel, the
US and elsewhere today.
Following the worn footpath straight back from here (away
from ul. Abrahama), about 25 metres away is a grove of trees
where close inspection reveals extensive piles of concrete
rubble that were once the Podgórze Jewish Cemetery’s
magnificent pre-burial hall. Built in 1932, part of the hall was
detonated by Goeth to amuse his company one night, while
the rest was dismantled at the end of the war. Amazingly,
there is still one surviving tombstone from the Podgórze
Jewish Cemetery, and those determined to find it can
attempt to do so, but it isn’t easy. Head left/due west from
the ruins of the pre-burial hall until you get beyond the trees.
Keep going another 15 metres from there and you should be
able to pick up a trail heading north (to your right) that will
take you directly to the site of the only other visible evidence
of the forgotten Jewish cemetery (about 30 metres). Chaim
Jakub Abrahamer, laid to rest in 1932, has the distinction of
the only surviving headstone, surrounded by the anonymous
foundations of other graves. Turn around and you can follow
this faint trail all the way back to the Grey House.
The South End of the Camp
From the intersection where the Grey House stands, we
now cross ul. Abrahama and continue up ul. Heltmana (the
continuation of ul. Jerozolimska). This residential street was
known as ‘SS-strasse’ during the war for it was here that the
The ‘Red House’ Zygmunt Put, Wikipedia CC BY-SA 3.0
Nazi officers lived, including camp commandant Amon Goeth
at number 22, known as the ‘Red House.’ You can see the
back of the house by making a detour onto ul. Lecha, and if
we follow it to the end and make a left onto the dirt trail there
it will lead us to Hujowa Górka. One of the camp’s mass
execution sites, it was here that the Nazis later exhumed the
bodies of 10,000 Jews and burned them to hide their crimes.
The name is a vulgar bit of Polish word play taken from the
name of the SS officer who ordered the first executions here
(Albert Hujar) and the Polish word for the male member; a
print-friendly translation would be ‘Prick’s Hill.’ Today the site
is marked by a modest wooden cross with a crown of thorns,
surrounded by a few benches.
From here you can see the large stone monument, which
stands atop Płaszów’s other main execution yard. Towering
over not only the camp, but also the highway towards which
it unfortunately faces, this monolithic Soviet-era monument
is known as the ‘Memorial of Torn-Out Hearts.’ Designed
by Witold Cęckiewicz and unveiled in 1964, the inscription
reads, “To the memory of the martyrs murdered by the Nazi
perpetrators of genocide in the years 1943-45.” Near its
base are two other monuments: to the left, a low-lying plaque
remembering the Hungarian Jewish women processed
in Płaszów on their way to Auschwitz; to the right, a stone
obelisk commemorating all the Jewish victims of the
camp. The last line of the long text reads, “In memory of
those murdered, whose final scream of anguish is the silence
of this Płaszów graveyard.”
Hujowa Górka Raduz, Wikipedia CC BY 3.0
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krakow.inyourpocket.com
February - March 2013

12 ARRIVAL & TRANSPORT
By Bus
Kraków Bus Station (Dworzec autobusowy) E-1,
ul. Bosacka 18, tel. (+48) 703 40 33 40, www.rda.krakow.pl.
International buses arrive and depart from the bus
terminal (Dworzec Autobusowy, ul. Bosacka 18, E-1) behind
the train station. Here you’ll find a snack bar, restaurant,
exchange bureau (kantor), ATM (bankomat) and information
point (open 07:00-20:00). Lockers for left luggage cost 9-15zł
(depending on size) for 24 hours, however are unavailable
when the main hall is closed between 22:00 and 06:00.
During this time there is a separate night time waiting room.
Tunnels connect the bus and train stations. Still the best
way to get into town, with or without getting lost, is to make
a right from the bus station into the train station, walk past
the platforms and follow the stairs or ramp to the left back
into daylight (beware getting sucked into the shopping mall).
Cut through the main ticket hall of the train station, cross the
square in front of Galeria Krakowska and take the underpass
into the Planty. Congrats, you’re in the Old Town.
Bus is your best option for travel to Zakopane and the Tatra
Mountains, with frequent departures for the two hour journey.
These are proper coaches and leave from the upper level
with tickets available from the ticket office inside the bus
station. For exact travel times check www.rda.krakow.pl
which is now in English.
Mini-bus is actually your best option for getting to some destinations
like Wieliczka and Niepołomice. Many mini-buses
leave from the lot across from Galeria Krakowska at the
corner of ul. Pawia and ul. Worcella (D-2), a short walk from
the main bus station. Q Ticket Office open 07:00 - 20:00.
By Car
Poland is one of Europe’s leading nations in road fatalities,
a statistic that will surprise few who have had the pleasure
of using the roads here. A lethal combination of poor road
surfaces, networks unsuited to the volume of different traffic
and, most of all, aggressive driver behaviour result in the
common sight of mangled wrecks around the country. While
the road quality issue is being slowly addressed with EU directives
and funding, the country’s clueless drivers are a trickier
fix to be sure. Exercise caution, keep a safe distance from
the vehicle in front, rub those rosary beads and God speed.
The speed limit in Poland is generally 50km/hr in cities
(60km/hr between 23:00 and 05:00), 90km/hr outside urban
areas, 120km/hr on dual carriageways and 140km/hr
on motorways. All cars must have their headlights switched
on at all times and carry a red warning triangle, first aid kit,
replacement bulbs, a national identity sticker and proper
registration and insurance documents. Poland also has
strict drunk-driving laws: 0.2‰ is the maximum blood/
alcohol limit, so forget about having even a single beer. EU
citizens may use their home driving licences as long as they
are valid, however citizens of countries that didn’t ratify the
Vienna Convention (tsk, tsk Australia and America) will find
their licences invalid (though that hasn’t stopped anyone we
know from driving their girlfriend’s car). Carry your licence and
passport at all times when driving.
With that out of the way, how to get here? For the time being
there’s only one major highway leading into Kraków via
Katowice, the A4, and its smooth asphalt doesn’t come free.
An 9zł toll is paid when you enter and again when you exit
the motorway. Still, it’s one of the best stretches of road
in the country until the bottleneck begins outside Kraków
near Wieliczka. Driving around the city is incredibly frustrating
with constant roadwork being done, one-way streets
and seemingly available streets requiring a permit to drive
down: violate this rule and the chances of getting a fine are
incredibly high, whether you’ve realised your infraction or not.
Kraków’s road network is not at all adequate for the volume
of cars on its roads and parking is yet another challenge.
To say nothing of horse-drawn carriages full of tourists and
trams, the lack of bicycle paths in the city centre also means
sharing the street with unwieldy bicycles above the laws of
the road, and the fact that they’re getting from point A to B
twice as fast as you is yet another smack in the face. Put it all
together and we recommend you ditch your vehicle in favour
of public transportation at the first opportunity. Car crime is
not unheard of and you’ll be safest leaving your ride in one
of the guarded parking lots listed below. Street parking is
available under the large parking signs on the sidewalk and
you’ll have to buy a pass from the neon-bibbed warden patrolling
the area, though parking machines have now replaced
them in many areas. The cost of street parking is 3zł for the
first hour, 3.50zł for the second, 4.10 for the third, and after
that back to 3zł. Areas where parking is available are also
marked on the map in the back of this guide.
By Plane
Kraków Airport ul. Kpt.
M. Medweckiego 1, tel.
(+48) 12 295 58 00, www.
krakowairport.pl. Some
17km west of the city centre,
Kraków Airport is small,
modern and easy to navigate,
though amenities are limited.
pl.wikipedia.org, Jamal 2
Consisting of two small terminals,
the domestic terminal
offers little more than a pricey cafe, newsstand and ATM
(bankomat), whereas in the international terminal you’ll find
currency exchange, ATMs (bankomat), a cafe, restaurant,
tourist information point (open 09:00 - 19:00), 24hr left
luggage office (9zł). Getting through check-in and security
is a snap, the only hassle of the airport being that you have
to walk around its entire perimeter to get from one terminal
to the other (great design job there, boys).
The best way to get to the airport from the Old Town,
and vice versa, is generally by train. A free shuttle bus
runs regularly between the international and domestic terminals,
picking passengers up directly outside the entrance
and taking them the short distance to the Kraków Airport
train stop (coordinated with the train times). Train tickets are
purchased from the conductor on board the train, and now
cost a rather ridiculous 19zł one way. If leaving from Kraków
Głowny train station, departures (odjazdy) to the Airport are
frequent from Track 1; buy your ticket from machines on the
platform or on board for no extra fee. Trains from the airport
run frequently between 06:00 and 23:00 with a journey time
of about 15-20mins.
Public bus numbers 292 and 208 also depart from beside
the International terminal entrance. This is a much cheaper
option, though the journey to the train station takes about 35-
40mins. Night bus 902 makes the same trip with departures
at 23:25, 00:21, 01:21, 02:21, 03:21 and 03:55.
The airport now also has its own trusted ‘Krakow Airport Taxi’
service with vehicles waiting outside the terminal entrances.
The advantages are a set price of 69zł from the airport to
the Old Town, with no monkey business and no night time
price hikes. Solid.
Kraków In Your Pocket krakow.inyourpocket.com
By Train
Main Train Station (Dworzec Główny) E-1, Pl. Jana
Nowaka - Jeziorańskiego 1, tel. (+48) 19 757, www.
rozklad.pkp.pl. Kraków’s main railway station, ‘Dworzec
Główny’, is conveniently situated at the northern edge of
the Old Town, making taxis and trams largely unnecessary
for those with accommodation in the Old Town. Not so convenient
are the ongoing renovation works - part of a plan
to transfer the railway station completely underground and
transform it into a modern transportation hub incorporating
the bus station as well. To date, all of the platforms have
been modernised and are open, however work on other
areas of the station, including one of the tunnels, are ongoing.
Travellers should anticipate some minor confusion and
inconvenience until all the work is finished, which from what
we’ve heard won’t happen sooner than December 2013.
Upon disembarking your train, you’ll be herded underground
into a newly modernised tunnel, which slyly leads straight into
the neighbouring Galeria Krakowska shopping mall; head up
the stairs before the entrance to avoid getting lost in the mall.
With no facilities available in the tunnel, head down the path
alongside the tracks to the original main hall where you’ll find
an ATM (bankomat), currency exchange booth (kantor), and
left luggage lockers.
Stepping out onto the square in front of the train station’s
main hall you’ll see Galeria Krakowska to your right, a bus
and tram stop ahead and to the left (on ul. Lubicz) and a taxi
rank straight ahead on ul. Pawia. It is less than a ten minute
walk to Rynek Główny (the market square) from the train station,
arguably the dreamiest entrance into any city in Europe
and highly recommended for anyone who has just arrived.
Crossing the plaza in front of the train station to the Andels
Hotel and following the crowds through the underpass to the
other side puts you officially in the Old Town, home to the
majority of Kraków’s hostels, hotels and nightlife; bear right,
make a left on Floriańska Street and you’re on the ‘path of
kings’ to the market square. You’ve arrived.
Now how to escape: Station departure boards (odjazdy)
are indicated by their yellow timetables; arrivals boards
(przyjazdy) are the white ones. Check the timetables online
at the Polish railways website - rozklad.pkp.pl - which has
limited but effective English language functionality. If you
want a seat on a particular train it is best to book ahead. If
in a rush, tickets can also be bought on board the train from
the conductor, but expect a surcharge. [Note that tickets for
the shuttle service to Kraków Balice airport, which runs every
30 minutes, can be purchased from machines on platform
1, or on-board the train for no extra fee.]
The state-owned Polish rail network PKP run several types
of train, which basically determine the length of the journey,
its comfort and cost. Express InterCity (EIC) and Express
(EX) trains are the fastest and most expensive, giving you
an assigned seat for the extra money. EuroCity (EC) trains
offer international connections and require the paid premium
for seat reservation as well. Cheapskates looking to
cut costs should opt for the markedly cheaper Twoje Linie
Kolejowe (TLK), which offer second class compartments
free of reservation fees (though you may end up sitting in
the aisle), and InterREGIO (IR) trains which have no seat
reservation fees. With these budget options you pay less,
but the journey will take longer and may try your good humour
with the potential for overcrowding and being forced
to sit of stand in the aisle. Q Open 24hrs. Note that due
to system maintenance seat reservations cannot be made
from 00:00 to 01:30.
krakow.inyourpocket.com
ARRIVAL & TRANSPORT
Station History
Wikipedia/Axe
The work of architect Peter Rosenbaum - who would go on
to design Wrocław’s immaculate station ten years later
- the main hall was built between 1844 and 1846, with
neo-renaissance decorations like turrets and crenellations
whimsically added to the exterior. Over the following
decades it would be extensively re-modelled, with bits
and pieces knocked down and added at the drop of a
hat. A bridge over ul. Lubicz designed by Teodor Talowski
was built in 1898, and a spate of tunnels and platforms
were added in the immediate years before and after. In
spite of extensive modernisation in the 1920s - which
included the creation of a water tower, printing house
and residential estate for railway workers - plans were
drawn up in 1934 to relocate the train station - albeit
by only 300 metres.
Under Nazi occupation the future of the station again fell
under threat, with plans to build a new one in the government
quarter located across the river in Dębniki. Even
after the Nazis were vanquished the train station could
not breathe easy; in keeping with the decentralisation
policy of communist planning, sketches were drawn up
to build a primary station next to Rondo Mogilska, an
area that the authorities wanted to develop in a bid to
outshine the decadent Old Town. Fortunately cash is king
and the commies had run out of it; the only sign of their
grandiose plan today is the half finished NOT building,
lovingly referred to by locals as ‘Szkieletor’. The years
since the Soviet-era ended have hardly granted Kraków’s
train station any peace either, however the changes
have largely been met positively as the area received
a thorough clean-up after years of neglect, and a new
plaza next to the Galeria Krakowska shopping mall now
represent Kraków’s main gateway into the city.
Presently the subject of a 63 million PLN investment
to create a brand new transportation hub connecting
the train, bus, airport shuttle and local tram services
underground, Kraków’s train station is set to receive
a new, modernised 12,000m2 ticket hall, as well as
new waiting areas, a cafe, restaurants and passenger
service points such as tourist information. The new
transportation hub will be fully accessible to the disabled
and is pencilled in for full completion no sooner than
December 2013, though that date is highly optimistic. In
the meantime, only one of the platform access tunnels
is open (so expect some confusion) and the old station
building appears to be headed towards redundancy and
the sales rack. However, lovers of the historical building
need not fret just yet. The local government is in talks to
take over the classic Rosenbaum building from the train
company and convert it into a gallery. Here’s hoping it’s
put to good use.
February - March 2013
13

14 ARRIVAL & TRANSPORT ARRIVAL & TRANSPORT 15
Car Rental
All you need to rent a car in PL is a credit card and a valid
foreign license or international driving permit. [Be aware,
however, that citizens from countries that didn’t ratify the
Vienna Convention (America, Australia) cannot legally drive
on their licenses and run the risk of hassle from the police.]
Enjoy cruising the EU, but don’t try leaving it in a rental car;
ie Ukraine is off-limits (sad face).
Acecar C-3, ul. Bracka 8/1a, tel. (+48) 508 13 36 51,
www.acecar.pl. Large selection of cars. Competitive prices.
Insurance and unlimited mileage included in rental price.
Friendly, reliable service. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00.
Dragon-VIP J-4, ul. Rejtana 7, tel. (+48) 509 58 88
Avis J-2, ul. Lubicz 23, tel.
(+48) 601 20 07 02, www.
avis.pl. Internationally trusted
service offering a range a
vehicles from the Opel Corsa to luxury mini-vans. Located
here near the train station and also at the airport (ul.
Kpt. M. Medweckiego 1, open 08:00 - 22:00). Q Open
09:00 - 17:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Sun open on request.
60, www.dragonvip.pl. A wide choice of vehicles from small
cars like the Peugeot 207, through mid-size like the Peugeot
308 to more exclusive vehicles. It is also possible to hire a
car with a driver. Delivery and collection of cars in Kraków
is free. GPS is also available free of charge with some cars.
Q Open 08:00 - 18:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00. Outside of these
hours on request.
Europcar J-4, ul.
Nadwiślańska 6 (Qubus
Hotel), tel. (+48) 12 374
56 96, www.europcar.pl. Offering both short and
long term rental options with 9 different categories
of car available for your individual needs. Excellence
in service with benefits tailored to your specific requirements.
Europcar is present at all Polish airports
including Kraków-Balice, tel. 12 257 79 00. Q Open
09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Outside of these hours
open on request.
Hertz H-3, Al. Focha 1, tel. (+48) 12 429 62 62, www.
hertz.com.pl. Also at Kraków Airport, tel. 12 285 50 84
(Open 07:00 - 23:00). QOpen 08:00 - 16:00, Sat 08:00 -
12:00. Closed Sun.
Joka D-2, ul.
Zacisze 7 (3rd
floor, room 7), tel.
(+48) 601 54 53
68, www.joka.com.pl. A wide range of cars including
Opel Astra 3, BMW, Subarus up to the spacious
Mercedes E220 CDi station wagon. All cars are
equipped with power steering. Satellite navigation
systems are also available. Special rates offered to
those who order through the Joka website. Q Open
09:00 - 17:00, Sat 09:00 - 12:00. Outside of these
hours on request.
Sixt ul. Kpt. M. Medweckiego 1 (Airport), tel. (+48) 12
639 32 16, www.sixt.pl. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00.
Not the dodgy enterprise it once was, most taxis are
reliable and use their metres without any fiddling around,
but beware of the cowboys sometimes waiting outside
the train station and some clubs. Make sure you choose
a clearly marked cab with a company name and phone
number displayed and a sticker demarcating prices in
the window. Taxis are now legally obliged to give you a
printed receipt at journey’s end further limiting the likelihood
of any funny business. There is a taxi rank across
the square from the main train station on ul. Pawia (D-2)
or walk up the stairs from the platforms to find reliable
Radio Taxi 919 on the rooftop parking lot. Expect to pay
7zł plus about 2.30zł per kilometre. At night expect to
pay up to 50% more for the pleasure. Whether or not to
tip your taxi driver is a bit of a point of contention. Many
Poles do not consider taxis a service that necessitates
a tip and thereby, if you’re Polish, the driver may not
expect one. But double standards being what they are,
it’s anticipated that foreigners will leave a tip, in which
case 10% is appropriate, or simply rounding up the bill.
We leave it to you.
Barbakan Taxi, tel. (+48) 12 196 61,
www.taxi.barbakan.krakow.pl.
Euro Taxi, tel. (+48) 12 196 64.
Mega Taxi, tel. (+48) 12 196 25, www.megataxi.eu.
Radio Taxi 919, tel. (+48) 12 191 91,
www.radiotaxi919.pl.
Public Transport
While Krakow has no underground metro system it
does have an integrated bus and tram system which
runs from 05:00-23:00, with night buses continuing
less frequently after that. Get tickets from the handy
ticket machines (also in English) at major stops,
on-board most trams and buses, or from the driver
immediately on boarding if there is no ticket machine.
Note that the ticket machines on board trams and
buses do not accept bills, so it is important to have
some change handy.
Tickets are the same for trams and buses, and are timed,
allowing you to change between tram or bus lines within
the alloted time. A standard fare is good for 20mins at a
cost of 2.80zł. By our estimation, this is about the time it
should take to go 5-8 stops, depending on traffic. If you’re
going a longer distance outside the centre (Nowa Huta,
for example), we recommend you purchase a 40min
ticket for 3.80zł. 1-hour, 24-hour, 48-hour, 72-hour,
and unlimited weekend family passes for 15.00zł are
also options, or consider the Kraków Tourist Card (see
Basics), which includes unlimited free travel on trams and
buses amongst its benefits. Note that ISIC and Euro‹26
Student cards are valid for transport ticket discounts,
but you must carry your ID and be under 26.
Most importantly, you must stamp your ticket immediately
on boarding the tram or bus in the small machines
on-board, even if you bought your ticket on-board.
Beware that sneaky plain-clothed inspectors regularly
travel on the lines handing out costly fines to those
without valid or proper tickets.
MPK (Krakow City Transport) ul. Św. Wawrzyńca
13, tel. (+48) 12 191 50, www.mpk.krakow.pl. Use
this website to find local bus schedules.
Kraków In Your Pocket krakow.inyourpocket.com
krakow.inyourpocket.com
February - March 2013
Taxis
98

Author: Hubert Waguła

18 BASICS
Facts & Figures
Territory
Poland covers an area of 312,685 square kilometers
and is the ninth biggest country in Europe. It borders
the Baltic Sea (528km) and seven countries, namely
Belarus (416km), Czech Republic (790km), Germany
(467km), Lithuania (103km), the mysterious Russian
exclave of Kaliningrad (210km), Slovakia (539km) and
Ukraine (529km).
Longest River
Kraków is split by the river Vistula (Wisła). At 1,047km
it is Poland’s longest river, flowing through Warsaw and
into the Bay of Gdańsk (Zatoka Gdańska).
Highest Point
The highest peak is Rysy (2,499m) in the nearby Tatra
Mountains. In comparison Kraków’s landscape is flat
and the city lies 219m above sea level.
Population (2011)
Poland: 38,538,447
Warsaw: 1,708,491
Kraków: 759,137
Łódź: 728,892
Wrocław: 631,235
Poznań: 554,696
Gdańsk: 460,517
Katowice: 310,764
Local Time
Poland is in the Central European (CET) time zone
(GMT+1hr). When it’s 12:00 in Kraków it’s 6:00 am in New
York City, 11:00 in London, 12:00 in Paris and Berlin and
19:00 in Tokyo. Polish summer time (GMT+2hrs) starts
and ends on the last Sundays of March and October.
Customs
If you are travelling within the EU those over 18 can now take
10 litres of spirits, 90 litres of wine and 110 litres of beer.
Most countries will not allow more than 800 cigarettes from
Poland. If purchasing art or books, you need to consider their
age and value. In order to leave the country, art must be both
less than 50 years old and under a certain value (varies
depending by type; photos ‹6,000zł, other art ‹14,000zł, for
example); if these conditions are met, the gallery curator can
then provide you with a ‘zaświadczenie’ (permission document)
describing the artwork’s price and when and where it
was created. If the work exceeds the permitted age or value,
you must get permission from the ‘Wojewódzki Konserwator
Zabytków’ (Regional Curator’s Office) to take it out of Poland;
bear in mind that this process will likely take 2-3 months.
Books must be less than 100 years old and under 6,000zł in
value in order to leave the country; if neither applies, permission
must be obtained from the National Library. Obviously,
problems arise when purchases are made at bazaars or flea
markets where vendors cannot provide the necessary documents;
if there is any doubt about the value or age of your
purchase, we suggest you visit an ‘Antykwariat’ (antiques
dealer - see shopping) for advice.
Electricity
Electricity in Poland is 230V, 50Hz AC. Plug sockets are round
with two round-pin sockets. Therefore if you are coming
from the US, UK or Ireland you are definitely going to need a
plug converter. The best place to pick these up is at home
though if you do arrive without a converter try your luck with
your hotel reception; they should be able to point you to an
electrical store if they can’t provide a converter themselves.
Health & Emergency
In case of an emergency those dialling from a land line or
public phone should use the following numbers: 999 for
an ambulance, 998 for the fire brigade and 997 for the
police. Mobile phone users should call 112 to be forwarded
to the relevant department. English speaking assistance
is not necessarily guaranteed, and rests on the linguistic
capabilities of the operator.
Between June 1st and September 30th however, English,
German and Russian speakers have the option of using a
separate line specifically designed for foreigners in distress:
dial 800 200 300 from a land-line or 608 599 999 from a
mobile phone for troubles during high-tourist season.
If you’ve woken up to find you’ve got a raging headache, a
swollen foot you can’t put weight on and vague memories of
some kind of calamity, we suggest you sort it out by calling
a private clinic, thus avoiding the hassle of the notoriously
long queues in Polish hospitals; a list of private clinics can be
found in the Directory in the back of this guide. Further help can
be provided by embassies and consulates, a list of which can
also be found in the Directory. If it’s a financial emergency your
hopes will rest on a Western Union money transfer. Most banks
and many exchange bureaus (kantors) can now carry out such
transactions, just keep an eye out for the Western Union logo.
Internet
Internet access is typically free and widely available in Poland,
with practically every café and restaurant offering wi-fi to
customers with laptops and smartphones. Getting on the
network often requires nothing more than a password, which
you can request of your favourite bartender or barista with
a simple, “Poproszę o hasło do internetu?” If you don’t have
your own gadgets we offer a few Internet cafe options below.
Czarny Florian D-6, ul. Dietla 69, tel. (+48) 12 397
80 45, www.czarnyflorian.pl. Six PCs complete with
everything you need to keep in touch, plus printing. QOpen
09:30 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. Computer use 5zł/hr.
Nandu B-3, ul. Wiślna 4, tel. (+48) 12 421 03 26, www.
nandu.pl. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00, Sun 09:00 - 22:00. 5zł
for first hour, 4zł per hour thereafter. Printing and cd-burning
available.
Tourist Card
The enterprising tourist should
consider picking up the Kraków
Tourist Card, a superb piece of
plastic that allows you free travel
on trams and buses, day and
night. The best bit is free entry
to over 30 Kraków museums - an impressive savings for
the serious tourist. Two and three day cards are available,
priced at 60zł and 75zł respectively and they are
valid until midnight on the day indicated on the reverse.
Every venue listed in our guide which accepts the Kraków
Tourist Card has been marked with a Tourist Card symbol.
Available at all tourist information offices, for a full list
of vendors and benefits visit www.krakowcard.com.
Kraków In Your Pocket krakow.inyourpocket.com
Market Values
Prices in Poland are still fairly competitive despite
increases over the last couple of years particularly in
the prices of cigarettes. Here are some typical everyday
products and prices.
Market values as of January 18, 2013
based on €1 = 4.08zł
Product Price (zł) Price (€)
McDonald's Big Mac 8.70 zł € 2.13
Snickers 1.59 zł € 0.39
0.5ltr vodka (shop) 22.99 zł € 5.63
0.5ltr beer (shop) 2.89 zł € 0.71
0.5ltr beer (bar) 9.00 zł € 2.21
Loaf of white bread 2.89 zł € 0.71
20 Marlboros 12.60 zł € 3.09
1 ltr of unleaded petrol (98) 5.38 zł € 1.32
Local transport ticket (1 journey) 3.20 zł € 0.78
Law & Order
In general Kraków is far safer than most Western cities,
and visitors are unlikely to face any problems if they simply
employ common sense. Petty crime does exist, and travellers
should be on guard against pickpockets; if you’re in a bar or
restaurant keep your wallet inside your trouser pocket, not
inside a jacket casually left lying around. Those travelling
by car are advised to use the guarded car parks we list in
Arrival & Transport. Perhaps the biggest danger in Kraków
is posed by groups of drunken football hooligans who can be
easily avoided and heard coming a mile away. Finally, foreign
men should be suspicious of young women who take an
overactive interest in them and suggest going to some dodgy
nightclub not in this guide where they stand the chance of
being intimidated into paying for vastly inflated drink charges
by thuggish bouncers; unfortunately, it happens.
Staying safe and on the right side of the law is significantly
easier for tourists who accept that Polish beer and vodka
are rocket fuel and drink accordingly. If you’re determined to
make an idiot of yourself then make sure it’s not in front of the
law. Since the budget airline boom, plenty of geniuses - from
those in Chewbacca costumes to complete prats who’ve
thought it perfectly acceptable to drop their trousers and
urinate in a city centre fountain - have tested the patience of
local law enforcement, which is now decidedly low so don’t
push your luck. Those who do may well be treated to a trip to
Kraków’s premier drunk tank (ul. Rozrywka 1, which literally
translates as ‘Entertainment Street’), where you can expect
a strip search, a set of blue pyjamas and the company of a
dozen mumbling vagrants. Those resisting arrest may well
find themselves strapped down to a bed, One Flew Over
The Cuckoo’s Nest-style. Refreshment comes in the form
of limitless coffee, though the mug sometimes comes with
a smell of urine for a reason. Credit cards are not accepted.
Other easy ways for tourists to cross cops are by riding public
transport without a ticket (see Arrival & Transport, Public
Transport) and, silly as it seems, by jaywalking. If you are from
a country which doesn’t have or respect jaywalking laws, you’ll
be surprised to see crowds of people standing obediently at a
crossing waiting for the lights to change. The reason for obeying
this little rule is the fact that the local city police (Straż Miejska)
will quite freely give you a 50-100zł fine for crossing a road at
a place where no crossing is marked or a 100zł fine when the
‘walk’ light is red. And don’t think you are exempt by being a
foreign visitor. You too are subject to the law and your nonresidency
means you will be forced to pay the fine on the spot.
krakow.inyourpocket.com
Language Smarts
BASICS
Many Poles, particularly young people, have a healthy
command of the English language. Many are also
adept at other European languages with German being
the most commonly spoken. Older Poles will fiercely
contest that they have ’forgotten’ the Russian taught
to them at school but most will still have a reasonable
understanding.
Mastering the Polish tongue can be a terrifying ordeal,
often resulting in personal degradation as shop
assistants laugh at your flustered attempts. That aside,
learning a few key phrases will smooth your time in
Kraków and may even win you friends and admirers.
On the downside, Polish is one of the most difficult
languages for native English speakers to learn. On the
upside, unlike in English, words in Polish are spelled
the way they are pronounced. This is a great help once
you know how to pronounce each letter/combination of
letters. While many letters represent the same sounds
as they do in English, below we have listed those
particular to Polish, followed by some basic words and
phrases. Powodzenia (good luck)!
Basic Pronunciation:
’ą’ sounds like ’on’ in the French ’bon’
’ę’ sounds like ’en’ as in the French ’bien’
’ó’ is an open ’o’ sound like ’oo’ in ’boot’
’c’ like the ’ts’ in ’bits’’
’j’ like the ’y’ in ’yeah’
’w’ is pronounced like the English ’v’
’ł’ like the ’w’ in ’win’
’ń’ like the ’ny’ in ’canyon’
’cz’ and ’ć’ like the ’ch’ in ’beach’
’dz’ like the ’ds’ in ’beds’
’rz’ and ’ż’ like the ’su’ in ’treasure’
’sz’ and ’ś’ like the ’sh’ in ’ship’
’drz’ like the ’g’ in ’George’
’r’ is always rolled
Yes Tak (Tahk)
No Nie (Nyeh)
Hi/Bye (informal) Cześć (Cheshch)
Hello/Good day
(formal)
Dzień dobry (Jen doh-bri)
Good evening
(formal)
Dobry wieczór (Doh-bri vyeh-choor)
Good-bye Do widzenia (Doh veet-zen-ya)
Good Night Dobranoc (Doh-brah-noats)
Please Proszę (Prosheh)
Thank you Dziękuję (Jen-koo-yeh)
Excuse me/Sorry Przepraszam (Psheh-prasham)
My name is... Mam na imię... (Mam nah ee-myeh…)
I’m from England. Jestem z Anglii (Yehstem zanglee)
Do you speak Czy mówisz po (Che moo-veesh po
English? angielsku? an-gyel-skoo?)
I don’t speak Nie mówię po (Nyeh moo-vyeh po
Polish.
polsku.
pol-skoo.)
I don’t understand. Nie rozumiem. (Nyeh row-zoo-me-ehm.)
Two beers, please. Dwa piwa proszę. (Dvah peevah prosheh.)
Cheers! Na zdrowie! (Nah zdrovyeh!)
Where are the
toilets?
Gdzie są toalety? (Gdjeh sawn toe-letih)
You are beautiful. Jesteś piękna. (Yes-tesh pee-enk-nah.)
I love you. Kocham cię. (Ko-hahm chuh.)
Please take me Proszę zabierz mnie (Prosheh za-byesh
home.
do domu. mnyeh doh doh-moo.)
Call me! Zadzwoń do mnie! (Zads-dvoan doh
mnyeh!)
Airport Lotnisko (Lot-nees-ko)
Train station Dworzec PKP (Dvoar-jets Peh Kah Peh)
Bus station Dworzec PKS (Dvoar-jets Peh Kah
Ess)
One ticket to… Jeden bilet do… (Yeh-den bee-let doh…)
February - March 2013
19

20 CULTURE & EVENTS
Misteria Paschalia
WWW.FABRYKAZESPOLOW.PL
25.03 Monday - 31.03 Sunday
Misteria Paschalia
www.misteriapaschalia.com.
This is the 10th
jubilee edition of Kraków’s
popular Misteria Paschalia
festival, presenting
what’s described in Polish
as ‘early’ music. What
Grzegorz Ziemiański,
www.fotohuta.pl
that actually means is
early classical and sacral
music, the repertoire of
which is carefully crafted
to thematically coincide with the Easter holiday - the most
important religious holiday on the Polish calendar. Many
of the projects are prepared specifically for or specially
commissioned by Misteria Paschalia. Gathering the biggest
stars of the niche genre to Kraków, this year’s special
line-up features Fabio Biondi, Giovanni Antonini, Julia
Lezhneva, Jordi Agnieszka Budzińska-Bennett, Michał
Gondko and many more. The seven concerts will be held
in several different venues: the Kraków Philharmonic (ul.
Zwierzyniecka 1, B-4), St. Catherine’s Church in Kazimierz
(ul. Augustiańska 7, D-7) and one special concert inside
St. Kinga’s Chapel, a UNESCO World Heritage site located
deep underground in Wieliczka Salt Mine. Don’t miss
it. Q Tickets 60-180zł. Pass 800zł. Available at www.
eventim.pl and City Tourist Information, (C-3) ul. Św. Jana
2, (Open 10:00 - 18:00). Full schedule available at www.
misteriapaschalia.com.
Cinemas
ARS Cinema C-3, ul. Św. Tomasza 11, tel. (+48) 12
421 41 99, www.ars.pl.QBox office open from 30 minutes
before the first showtime to 30 minutes after the last
showtime. Tickets 12-20zł.
Cinema City J-3, ul. Podgórska 34 (Galeria Kazimierz),
tel. (+48) 12 254 54 54, www.cinema-city.pl.QBox office
open 09:15 - 22:45. Tickets 15-29zł.
Cinema City Plaza L-2, Al. Pokoju 44, tel. (+48) 12
290 90 90, www.cinema-city.pl.QBox office open 30
minutes before the first shotime to 15 minutes after last
showtime. Tickets 15-29zł.
IMAX Kraków L-2, Al. Pokoju 44, tel. (+48) 12 290
90 90, www.kinoimax.pl.QBox office open 30 minutes
before the first shotime to 15 minutes after last showtime.
Tickets 17-29zł.
Kijów.Centrum H-3, Al. Krasińskiego 34, tel. (+48)
12 433 00 33, www.kijow.pl.QBox office open 30
minutes before the first showtime until the last showtime.
Tickets 11-24zł.
Kino Agrafka C-1, ul. Krowoderska 8, tel. (+48) 12
430 01 79, www.kinoagrafka.pl.QBox office open from
30 minutes before the first showtime until the last showtime.
Tickets 10-18zł.
Kino Paradox A-3, ul. Krupnicza 38, tel. (+48) 12 430
00 15 ext. 211, www.kinoparadox.pl. Q Box office open
30 minutes before the showtime. Tickets 10zł.
Kino Pauza C-2, ul. Floriańska 18/5 (2nd floor), tel.
(+48) 606 88 83 80, www.kinopauza.pl.QBox office
open half hour before showtime. Tickets 0-15zł.
Kino Pod Baranami C-3, Rynek Główny 27, tel. (+48)
12 423 07 68, www.kinopodbaranami.pl.QBox office
open 45 minutes before first showtime to 15 minutes after
last showtime. Tickets 12-22zł.
Cultural Centres
British Council C-3, Rynek Główny 6, tel. (+48) 12
428 59 30, www.britishcouncil.pl.QOpen 08:30 - 19:00.
Closed Sat, Sun.
Cervantes Institute C-5, ul. Kanonicza 12, tel.
(+48) 12 421 32 55, cracovia.cervantes.es. Q Open
09:30 - 19:30, Fri 09:30 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Library
open 12:00 - 15:00, 16:30 - 19:45, Tue, Wed 09:30 - 13:00,
15:00 - 17:00, Fri 09:30 - 14:00 and every last Sat of the
month 10:30 - 13:30. Closed Sat, Sun.
Goethe Institute (Instytut Goethego) C-3, Rynek
Główny 20, tel. (+48) 12 422 69 02, www.goethe.de/
krakau.QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Fri 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat,
Sun. Library open 11:00 - 16:00, Tue, Thu 13:00 - 18:00.
Closed Fri, Sat, Sun.
Jewish Community Centre (Centrum
Społeczności Żydowskiej w Krakowie) D-6, ul.
Miodowa 24, tel. (+48) 12 370 57 70, www.jcckrakow.
org.QOpen 10:00 - 20:30, Fri 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Manggha B-6, ul. Konopnickiej 26, tel. (+48) 12 267
27 03, www.manggha.pl.QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed
Mon. Admission 15/10zł, family ticket 25zł, group ticket 60zł,
Tue free. Guided tours 100zł.
Rotunda (Centrum Kultury Rotunda) H-3, ul. Oleandry
1, tel. (+48) 12 292 65 16, www.rotunda.pl.Q Box
office open 16:00-19:00, Sat, Sun depending on repertoire.
Tickets depending on repertoire.
Galleries
Art Space C-3, ul. Św. Marka 22, tel. (+48) 607 68
70 85, www.asgallery.pl.QOpen 13:30 - 19:00, Sat, Sun
11:30 - 15:00. Closed Mon. Admission free.
Kraków In Your Pocket krakow.inyourpocket.com
Bunkier Sztuki B-2, Pl. Szczepański 3a, tel. (+48) 12
422 10 52, www.bunkier.art.pl.QOpen 11:00 - 18:00.
Closed Mon. Admission 10/5zł.
International Cultural Centre (Międzynarodowe
Centrum Kultury) C-3, Rynek Główny 25, tel. (+48) 12
424 28 00, www.mck.krakow.pl.QOpen 10:00 - 18:00.
Closed Mon. From February 14th, closed for renovations.
Admission 8/5zł.
Jan Fejkiel Gallery C-2, ul. Sławkowska 14, tel. (+48)
12 429 15 53, www.fejkielgallery.com.QOpen 11:00
- 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. Admission free.
Pauza Gallery (Galeria Pauza) C-2, ul. Floriańska
18/5 (2nd floor), tel. (+48) 12 422 48 66, www.galeriapauza.pl.QOpen
15:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon. Admission free.
Polonia House (Wspólnota Polska) C-3, Rynek Główny
14, tel. (+48) 12 422 43 55, www.swp.krakow.pl.QOpen
11:00 - 17:00, Sat 11:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. Admission free.
Poster Gallery (Galeria Plakatu) C-3, ul. Stolarska
8-10, tel. (+48) 12 421 26 40, www.cracowpostergallery.com.QOpen
11:00 - 17:00, Sat 11:00 - 14:00. Closed
Sun. From March open 11:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 14:00.
Closed Sun Admission free.
Space Gallery B-2, ul. Św. Marka 7, tel. (+48) 12 432
29 20, www.spacegallery.com.pl.QOpen 10:00 - 18:30,
Sat 10:00 - 15:00, Sun 11:00 - 16:00. Admission free.
Starmach Gallery J-4, ul. Węgierska 5, tel. (+48) 12
656 43 17, www.starmach.eu.QOpen 11:00 - 18:00.
Closed Sat, Sun. Admission free.
Opera Stages
Kraków Chamber Opera (Krakowska Opera Kameralna)
E-5, ul. Miodowa 15, tel. (+48) 12 430 66 06,
www.kok.art.pl.QBox office open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun
depending on repertoire. Tickets 40-120zł.
Kraków Opera (Opera Krakowska) E-2, ul. Lubicz
48, tel. (+48) 12 296 62 62, www.opera.krakow.pl.Q
Box office open 10:00 - 19:00, Sun two hours before the
performance. Tickets 15-170zł.
Philharmonic
Kraków Philharmonic (Filharmonia Krakowska)
B-4, ul. Zwierzyniecka 1, tel. (+48) 12 429 13 45, www.
filharmonia.krakow.pl.QBox office open 11:00 - 14:00,
15:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun one hour before performance. Closed
Mon. Tickets 15-35zł.
Theatre Stages
Stary Teatr (Narodowy Stary Teatr) C-3, ul.
Jagiellońska 1, tel. (+48) 12 422 40 40, www.stary.
pl. Q Box office open 10:00 - 13:00, 17:00 - 19:00 and two
hours before the spectacle. Closed Mon. Tickets 15-50zł. Y
Teatr Nowy E-7, ul. Gazowa 21, tel. (+48) 12 426 45
06, www.teatrnowy.com.pl. Q Box office open 10:00 -
18:00, Sat, Sun 2 hours before the performance. Closed
Mon. Tickets 30-50zł.
Information & Tickets
City Tourist Information (Punkt Informacji
Miejskiej) C-3, ul. Św. Jana 2, tel. (+48) 12 421
77 87, www.karnet.krakow.pl. Helpful people who
can tell you what’s going on and who can sell you tickets
as well. Also the publishers of Karnet, a comprehensive
monthly listing of cultural events in Polish and English.
QOpen 10:00 - 18:00.
krakow.inyourpocket.com
CULTURE & EVENTS
February - March 2013
21

22 CULTURE & EVENTS CULTURE & EVENTS 23
Shanties 2013
21.02 Thursday - 24.02 Sunday
Shanties 2013
H-3, ul. Oleandry 1, tel. (+48) 12 423 22 36, www.
shanties.pl. For over 30 years Kraków has been hosting
this salty sea shanty festival with so much success that
it has spawned an astounding 20 other shanty festivals
across Poland and risen to become not only the most
important celebration of maritime music in Poland, but
also one of the most important in Europe. Kraków obviously
loves a good drunken sing-along, and that’s exactly
what you’ll get at this festival. Foreigners, fear not: while
many of the performers are Polish, there are plenty of
international acts as well, not to mention the strong connection
to the oral and musical traditions of Ireland and
Scotland that shanty music has. The theme and focus
of this year’s festival is the Baltic Sea (where’s that?),
so expect to hear plenty of Baltic ballads, legends and
stories from Poland’s neighbour to the north. All concerts
are at Rotunda Cultural Centre (ul. Oleandry 1, H-3),
but the real fun starts after 22:00 in Kraków’s famous
sailor bar Stary Port (ul. Straszewskiego 27, B-3,
entrance from ul. Jabłonowskich). Here the day’s
artists gather to drink and keep the night going with
less formal concerts and going-on. [Note that you will
probably need a festival ticket to get into Stary Port.]
Below we list this year’s programme of bloody pirates
and salty sea wenches:
Thursday, February 21st
19:00: “Baltic Blues” Concert, featuring Formacja, Kasa
Chorych, Andrzej Korycki & Dominika Żukowska, Waldemar
Mieczkowski, Jerzy Porębski
22:00: After party and concerts in Stary Port Tavern
Friday, February 22nd
12:00: Concert For Children, hosted by Klang
18:00: “Baltic Tails” Concert, featuring Krzysztof Jurkiewicz,
Jacek Jakubowski, Atlantyda, Formacja, Smugglers,
Russian Shanty Group and more
22:00: Concerts in Stary Port Tavern
23:00: Sea Song Concert, featuring Banana Boat, Klang,
Zejman & Garkumpel, Beltaine, Prawdziwe Perły
Saturday, February 23rd
12:00: Concert for Children, Zejman & Garkumpel
16:00: Tourist and Sailor Song Concert with Mirosław
Kowalewski, Grzegorz Tyszkiewicz, Bez Jacka, Klang,
Słodki Całus od Buby and more
22:00: Folk Concert featuring Mietek Folk Band, Canau,
Samanta Orchestra, Sąsiedzi, Smugglers, Trzy Maszty,
Small Accordion Collective (Estonia)
22:00: After party and concerts in Stary Port Tavern
Sunday, February 24th
12:00: “Baltic Shanty and Sea Songs” featuring Wojciech
Harmansa, Michał Gramatyka, Brasy, Cztery Refy,
Prawdziwe Perły, Men’s Shanty Choir “Zawisza Czarny”
and more.
17:00: Final Concert - “Around the Baltic Sea,” featuring
Marek Szurawski, Flash Creep, Andrzej Korycki, Mietek
Folk, Ryszard Muzaj, Samanta Orchestra, Jerzy Porębski,
Russian Shanty Group, Ryczące Dwudziestki and more
22:00: After party and concerts in Stary Port Tavern
Q Tickets 18-45zł. Available at the Rotunda box office
(Open 10:00-13:00, 16:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun.)
and before the concerts.
Ballet
11.03 Monday
Swan Lake
E-2, Kraków Opera, ul. Lubicz 48. Heard of this one?
Tchaikovsky’s famous ballet performed by the Royal Russian
Ballet company. Formed in Kharkiv (that’s actually Ukraine)
in 2007, this prestigious troupe of Ukrainian and Russian
performers has travelled the world over, collecting many
awards en route. Q Event starts at 17:00 and 20:00. Tickets
90-240zł. Available at www.ticketpro.pl.
Concerts
15.02 Friday
Pur.pendicular - Official Deep Purple
Tribute Band
H-3, Rotunda Club, ul. Oleandry 1. Yep, the official Deep
Purple Cover Band. Is there something else you need to
know? Okay, founded in 2007 by Irish vocalist Robbie Thomas
Walsh and Austrian guitarist Joe Doblhofer, the band is based
in Europe and made up of world-class musicians carefully
chosen to replicate the sound of the original bands. Taking
their name from that of the 15th Deep Purple album, when the
band started out they actually played and toured with original
drummer Ian Paice. In fact all the members of the original Deep
Purple have fully endorsed these guys, and the two bands even
shared a stage in St. Petersburg in 2010. Q Concert starts at
20:00. Tickets 39zł. Available at www.ticketpro.pl.
24.02 Sunday
Maria Peszek
G-2, Studio Club, ul. Budryka 4. Controversial Polish
songstress Maria Peszek will play Studio Club once again.
Her acclaimed debut Miasto Mania was recorded in 2005
with Wojciech Waglewski, while her second album, Maria
Awaria (Maria Out of Order), caused more of a stir on its
way to going platinum. Gaining a reputation for the vulgar/
naughty/rude (delete as appropriate) nature of her lyrics, her
latest album Jezus Maria Peszek certainly tested the tolerance
of Poland’s conservative mainstream. Her concerts are
brash, energetic and uncompromising, and people either love
her or they can’t stand her; there’s no middle ground (unless
perhaps, like us, you can’t really understand what’s she’s
going on about). Q Concert starts at 20:00. Tickets 35-
50zł. Available at www.ticketpro.pl, Empik Megastore, (C-3)
Rynek Główny 5 (Open 09:00 - 22:00) and before the concert.
27.02 Wednesday
G.B.H.
Klub Kwadrat, ul. Skarżyńskiego 1 (Nowa Huta), www.
galicja.net. This legendary English street punk band was
formed in Birmingham in 1978 and enjoyed some success
in the early 1980s alongside contemporaries The Exploited
during British punk rock’s second wave, before ending up in
this Nowa Huta student club. G.B.H. still actively perform and
record and have a devoted following across Europe. This is
actually a great chance to see them and have an irreverently
good time. Q Concert starts at 19:00. Tickets 40-50zł.
Available at www.ticketpro.pl and Empik Megastore, (C-3)
Rynek Główny 5 (Open 09:00 - 22:00).
03.03 Sunday
Sabaton supported by Eluveitie
G-2, Wisła Hall, ul. Reymonta 22, www.knockoutprod.
net. The supposedly legendary Swedish metal band Sabaton
has been around for over a decade and has a strong following
in Poland thanks to a concert given on the anniversary of
Hitler’s Invasion of Poland (though that kind of reasoning has
certainly never worked in Madonna’s favour). They’ll be performing
screamers from their recent May release, Carolus Rex, and
be supported by folk-metal band Eluveitie. Q Concert starts
at 19:00. Tickets 95-110zł. Available at www.ticketpro.pl and
Empik Megastore, (C-3) Rynek Główny 5 (Open 09:00 - 22:00).
12.03 Tuesday
Kult
Klub Kwadrat, ul. Skarżyńskiego 1 (Nowa Huta),
www.galicja.net. Kult are the Grandaddies of the Polish
alternative rock. Lead by the indomitable vocalist and lyric
writer Kazik Staszewski, if you want something truly Polish
and very cool, look no further. Their music has its roots in
punk and new wave, but also includes elements of jazz and
psychadelic rock.
Originally founded in 1982 by Staszewski and Piotr Wieteska
on bass, their lyrics in the 80s hit out at ‘the system’ which
at that time meant the communists. Since the fall of the wall,
they seem to have got even more truculent and unpredictable
- nobody is safe, unique. Q Concert starts at 19:00. Tickets
55-60zł. Available at www.ticketpro.pl, Empik Megastore, (C-
3) Rynek Główny 5 (Open 09:00 - 22:00) and before concert.
15.03 Friday
Swans
Klub Kwadrat, ul. Skarżyńskiego 1 (Nowa Huta). Perfect
for a miserable Polish Winter’s night! Michael Gira’s depressing
post-industrial experimental sextet trudge over to Poland
to play shows in Warsaw and Kraków. See if you can still get
your greedy mitts on a copy of their last album, ‘We Rose from
Your Bed with the Sun in Our Head’, limited to 1000 copies
with hand printed covers and signed by Mr. Gira himself. Q
Concert starts at 19:00. Tickets 95zł. Available at www.
ticketpro.pl and Empik Megastore, (C-3) Rynek Główny 5
(Open 09:00 - 22:00).
17.03 Sunday
Czesław Śpiewa
G-2, Studio Club, ul. Budryka 4. Polish-Danish singer, composer
and accordionist Czesław Mozil is well-known to Polish
audiences as a juror on the popular TV talent show X-Factor,
as well as his three highly successful album releases under
the name ‘Czesław Śpiewa’ (Czesław Sings). Born in Zabrze
in 1933, Czesław moved to Denmark when he was five,
only returning to Poland when he was 28. His performances
are a bit of a spectacle and his music is described as part
cabaret and part rock, with a dose of punk chucked in. His
latest album features modern arrangements of the poems
of Czesław Milosz. Q Concert starts at 20:00. Tickets 35-
50zł. Available at www.ticketpro.pl, Empik Megastore, (C-3)
Rynek Główny 5 (Open 09:00 - 22:00) and before the concert.
21.03 Thursday
Aleksander Pustovalov Army Choir
B-4, Kraków Philharmonic, ul. Zwierzyniecka 1. During
its heyday, the Red Army Choir won countless medals, honours
and prestige as it toured the world under the direction
of Alexander Pustovalov, who rose to the rank of colonel just
by showing off the superior pipes of the Soviet boys. After
the break up of the USSR, Pustovalov continued his work as
if it never did, and his entourage of about 60 singers, soloists,
symphony musicians and more, dressed in full military
pleats and epaulettes continue to perform their nostalgic
mix of marches, Russian and Ukrainian national songs
and folk ballads. Like nothing you’ve ever seen, we’re quite
certain. Q Concert starts at 19:00. Tickets 120zł. Available
at www.ticketpro.pl.
Kraków In Your Pocket krakow.inyourpocket.com
krakow.inyourpocket.com
February - March 2013

24 CULTURE & EVENTS
06.02 Wednesday
Live Playing - Chłopcy Kontra Basia
C-3, Hard Rock Cafe, Pl. Mariacki 9, tel. (+48)
12 429 11 55, www.granienazywo.pl. The
name means Boys vs. Basia, but also includes
some clever Polish word play with the Polish word
for upright bass, which this ethno-folk and jazz
trio features in addition to drums and vocals.
Their minimalist sound incorporates a range of
modern influences, including jazz, trip-hop and
drum’n’bass, but their original compositions may
be best described as highly stylised folk songs.
Drawing on Polish poetry and folklore, their songs
are mostly story-telling ballads. Their highlyanticipated
debut album is still forthcoming, but
this unique trio has gained plenty of attention,
winning several awards and contests. Q Concert
starts at 20:00. Tickets 22-32zł. Available at
www.ticketpro.pl and before the concert.
13.02 Wednesday
Live Playing - Marika & Spokoarmia
C-3, Hard Rock Cafe, Pl. Mariacki 9, tel. (+48)
12 429 11 55, www.granienazywo.pl. Known
as ‘The First Lady of Polish Dancehall,’ Marika has
performed at some of the biggest reggae festivals
in Poland and around Europe, sharing the stage
with well-known performers like E. Badu, Wyclef,
Missy Elliot, Sean Paul and Macy Gray. Her career
kicked off in 2002 as a member of the group
Bass Medium Trinity, with whom she recorded the
ground-breaking Polish-language reggae album
‘Mówisz i Masz.’ Since then she’s authored three
successful solo albums of her own unique mix of
reggae, funk and soul. Q Concert starts at 20:00.
Tickets 26-35zł. Available at www.ticketpro.pl and
before the concert.
20.02 Wednesday
Live Playing - Świetliki
C-3, Hard Rock Cafe, Pl. Mariacki 9, tel. (+48)
12 429 11 55, www.granienazywo.pl. Throughout
a now 15 year career, this popular Polish act
has created their own unique take on alternative
rock. Lead by idiosyncratic singer and songwriter
Marciń Świetlicki, known for his unique delivery
and highly poetic lyrics, the group has churned out
5 full-lengths, 3 EPs, and has a new album due out
in early 2013. Q Concert starts at 20:00. Tickets
28-38zł. Available at www.ticketpro.pl and before
the concert.
27.02 Wednesday
Live Playing - Marek Dyjak
C-3, Hard Rock Cafe, Pl. Mariacki 9, tel. (+48) 12
429 11 55, www.granienazywo.pl. Past careers
as a boxer and plumber weren’t been nearly as kind
to Marek Dyjak as his performing career, which began
back in the 90s when he won Kraków’s Student Song
Festival, before collecting other Polish accolades. Today
one of Poland’s most recognisable artists, singer and
composer Dyjak tours with a full jazz band and even
takes his turn on thre trumpet. Q Concert starts at
20:00. Tickets 25-32zł. Available at www.ticketpro.pl
and before the concert.
22.03 Friday
Jessie Ware
G-2, Studio Club, ul. Budryka 4, www.knockoutprod.
net. After a highly memorable performance at last
summer’s Open’er Festival, Jessie Ware is returning
to Poland for two concerts in Kraków and Warsaw. The
young British vocalist rose to fame dramatically after
her lead vocals on a SBTRKT track got her a record
deal and her debut Devotion was a staple of ‘Best of
2012’ album lists. With a vocal style reminiscent of Sade
or Whitney Houston, Jessie has already proven to be
a better songwriter than both, and her vocals are laid
over future-sounding electronic beats and blips. One of
today’s most talented new pop stars, and looking set
to achieve huge success in the coming years, this is a
great chance to see her perform live. Q Time undecided
at the moment. Please check our website for updates.
Tickets 89-99zł. Available at www.ticketpro.pl, Empik
Megastore, (C-3) Rynek Główny 5 (Open 09:00 - 22:00)
and before the concert.
Live Playing Cream of the Crop
26.03 Tuesday
Helloween
G-2, Studio Club, ul. Budryka 4, www.metalmind.com.
pl. Thirty years of bone crushing racket and German noisemeisters
Helloween are still drilling holes into people’s heads.
This gig is part of the aptly named ‘Hellish Rock: Part II’ tour.
Support comes from power metal band Gammaray, fronted
by former Helloween guitarist and songwriter Kai Hansen.
Q Concert starts at 20:00. Tickets 130-150zł. Available at
www.ticketpro.pl and Empik Megastore, (C-3) Rynek Główny
5 (Open 09:00 - 22:00).
Exhibitions
15.02 Friday - 28.04 Sunday
Everything Forever Now - Polish and British
Sustainable Design
K-4, Museum of Contemporary Art, ul. Lipowa 4, tel.
(+48) 12 263 40 00, www.mocak.pl. Evidence of our
changing world, this sustainable design exhibit moves
into Kraków’s contemporary art museum. As dwindling
natural resources and ballooning energy costs, combined
with a world population that is ever on the rise, force us
to re-examine our way of living, sustainable design has
become a major industry. This exhibit presents projects
by Polish and British designers which not only strive to
protect the planet, but look sexy at the same time. Q
Open 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. Last entrance one
hour before closing. Admission 10/5zł, family ticket
20zł. Tue free.
15.02 Friday - 28.04 Sunday
Utopian Design
K-4, Museum of Contemporary Art, ul. Lipowa 4, tel.
(+48) 12 263 40 00, www.mocak.pl. A graduate of
Poznań’s Academy of Fine Arts, Blamowski’s work will be
simultaneously presented in two galleries at MOCAK. Here
we have a chance to see his more utilitarian and decorative
pieces: an eclectic bench, a rosary praying game, an
Art Deco newspaper rack and a framed trophy among
them. Always surprising and provocative, Blamowksi’s
trademark is his bastardisation of historical styles and
perfection of craft. This exhibit is in concert with his short
films also on display, but apparently also references the
simultaneous Polish and British sustainable design exhibit
at MOCAK. Q Open 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. Last entrance
one hour before closing. Admission 10/5zł, family
ticket 20zł. Tue free.
Kraków In Your Pocket krakow.inyourpocket.com
Copernicus C-5, ul. Kanonicza 16, tel. (+48) 12 424
34 00, www.hotel.com.pl. You’ve chosen well. Few hotels
in Central Europe can match the standard set by Copernicus,
and it’s a firm favourite of visiting dignitaries, with former
guests including George W. Bush. Tastefully uncluttered
the hotel is decorated with heavy woodwork, marble, rich
fabrics and wall frescoes - some dating from the 14th century.
Enjoy rooftop terrace views of Wawel, gourmet food or
the fitness centre and swimming pool housed in the medieval
cellars. Q29 rooms (4 singles, 17 doubles, 8 suites).
PTJHA6UFLGKDCW hhhhh
Grand C-2, ul. Sławkowska 5/7, tel. (+48) 12 424 08
00, www.grand.pl. Kraków’s first five-star hotel has long
been established as the city’s most luxurious and has the
legendary guest list to prove it. Rooms and private suites
with original murals, coffered ceilings, stained glass windows,
ornamental fireplaces and ceremonious service create
the imperial ambiance the hotel has built its reputation on
since its 19th century stint as the Czartoryski Palace, while
a business centre and fitness club add modern conveniences.
Q64 rooms (55 singles, 45 doubles, 9 apartments).
PTJHAR6UFLGKDW hhhhh
Gródek D-3, ul. Na Gródku 4, tel. (+48) 12 431 90 30,
www.donimirski.com. The honeymoon choice. Brought to
you by the same team behind the Pugetów and Maltański,
so the quality comes as no surprise. The interior, designed
by Swiss studio IKRL, is redolent of an aristocrat’s country
retreat, and the individually designed rooms come with
vases of flowers, bathrobes and a homely look that reeks
of romantic class. Adjacent to a Dominican convent, Gródek
offers an air of complete serenity and 5 star standards. Q23
rooms (21 singles, 18 doubles, 2 suites). PTHAR
6ULGKDW hhhhh
Holiday Inn Krakow City Center D-4, ul. Wielopole
4, tel. (+48) 12 619 00 00, www.hik.krakow.pl. Nothing
short of top-level standards courtesy of the Holiday Inn.
Easy-on-the-eye navy blue colours, staff who fuss over you,
private parking and large rooms make this the reliable choice
one expects. For the best price check out the special daily
offers on their web page. Q154 rooms (150 singles, 150
doubles, 4 suites). PTJAR6UFGW hhhhh
Hotel Stary C-2, ul. Szczepańska 5, tel. (+48) 12 384
08 08, www.hotel.com.pl. A feast of opulence awaits
inside one of Poland’s top hotels. Gain entry via a huge
hardwood door that automatically swings open, 007-style.
Occupying a former aristocratic residence many of the original
details have been retained alongside chic touches such as
a glass lift that zips guests to their rooms. Accommodation
comes with sumptuous rooms filled with creature comforts
and bathrooms fitted with Italian marble. A subterranean pool
open to all can be found in the cellars, while perched on top of
the hotel is a recommended albeit seasonal rooftop cafe/bar
with views staring onto the main square. The class of Kraków,
it’s no surprise that the English national football squad headquartered
here during Euro 2012. Q53 rooms (8 singles,
34 doubles, 4 suites, 6 apartments, 1 Presidential Suite).
PTJHA6UFLGKDCwW hhhhh
Komorowski Luxury Guest Rooms C-1, ul. Długa 7,
tel. (+48) 505 98 93 71, www.hotelkomorowski.com.
This honeymoon haven has all the hallmarks to make it the
perfect romantic getaway including king-size beds, heated
floors, 40-inch LCD televisions and two-person Jacuzzis with
jet massage - some rooms even include tubs with water il-
krakow.inyourpocket.com
SHERATON KRAKOW HOTEL
ul. Powiśle 7
31-101 Kraków
t — +48 12 662 1000
HOTELS
Dreams
come true
Sheraton Krakow Hotel is ideally
located located near Wawel Castle, on the
bank of Wisła River with amazing
views to both. It is just a 10-minute
walk from the famous Market Square
at the Old Old Town.
SomePlace Else with outdoor
Terrace&Garden, Qube Vodka
300 delegates
sheraton.com/krakow
February - March 2013
25

26 HOTELS HOTELS 27
lumination and built-in stereos, as an in-room waterfall tinkles
nearby. (We couldn’t find the button that makes rose petals
fall from the ceiling, but we’re sure it’s there somewhere.)
Tastefully designed in Art Deco style, these immaculate
rooms represent the highest standards in Kraków, buoyed
by the personal service of owners Jerry and Bart themselves.
Located just north of the main square on ul. Długa, you almost
wish they were further away so you wouldn’t have to explain
why you haven’t left the room all weekend. Check the website
for details of their Romantic Getaway packages. Q7 rooms
(7 singles, 7 doubles). PALGW
Niebieski Art Hotel & SPA H-3, ul. Flisacka 3, tel. (+48)
12 297 40 00, www.niebieski.com.pl. A relatively new fivestar
hotel and spa on a quiet corner of the Wisła riverbank, the
Niebieski is designed to be environmentally sustainable and
energy efficient, with a harmonious holistic interior arrangement
that extends from the new Vanilla Spa throughout the entire
hotel. The spacious rooms feature wide, comfortable beds,
unique modern furnishings and soothing colours, and the third
floor apartments offer gorgeous views of the Wisła River and
Wawel Castle from their terraces. The philosophy of well-being
also applies to the Vanilla Sky on-site restaurant which serves
light fusion cuisine with only certified organic ingredients. There
is also a 4-star hotel directly next door owned by the same
people if you’d rather keep some of your cash to spend in
the spa. Q40 rooms (38 singles, 38 doubles, 2 apartments).
PTHAR6UFGKDwW hhhhh
Radisson Blu B-4, ul. Straszewskiego 17, tel. (+48)
12 618 88 88, www.radissonblu.com/hotel-krakow.
Located next to the Filharmonia and the Planty, the Radisson is
prime summer location in the heart of Krakow. Few amenities
are spared and you can take advantage of free bike rentals,
breakfast, high-speed internet and even certain suites that allow
smoking. Weekends can be quite busy in the summertime, so
book in advance and take advantage of the small fitness centre
and spa, as well as the various guided tours that are sponsored
by and originate at the Radisson. Q196 rooms (148 singles,
148 doubles, 19 apartments, 29 Business Class Rooms).
PTJHAR6UFGKDXwW hhhhh
Sheraton Kraków A-5, ul. Powiśle 7, tel. (+48) 12 662
10 00, www.sheraton.pl/krakow. The choice of the stars.
This is where the Dutch national football team set up camp
during Euro 2012, though usually it’s wealthy tourists and corporate
travellers who bustle through the glass-covered atrium
in this sparkling five star venture near Wawel Castle. Rooms
come decorated with chequered scarlet colour schemes and
state-of-the-art amenities. Several fine restaurants and bars
are also in the building, including a seasonal rooftop terrace
bar overlooking the river and castle. Q232 rooms (228 singles,
228 doubles, 2 suites, 1 Wawel Suite , 1 Presidential Apartment).
PTHAR6UFGKDCW hhhhh
The Bonerowski Palace (Pałac Bonerowski)
C-3, Rynek Główny 42/ul. Św. Jana 1, tel. (+48) 12
374 13 00, www.palacbonerowski.pl. A masterpiece of
a hotel occupying a historic property dating from the early
16th century - King Jan Sobieski walked these corridors
back in the 17th century. Many of the original details have
been retained and restored, including gothic columns and
medieval masonry and rooms come beautifully appointed
with voluptuous drapes and elegant furnishings. Features of
note include a sweeping stairwell, chandelier hovering above,
as well as the full range of top-class services. Best of all
rooms come with grandstand views facing the main square,
allowing you to do all your holiday snaps from the comfort of
your room. Q15 rooms (8 singles, 8 doubles, 7 apartments).
PTHAR6UFLGKDwW hhhhh
Upmarket
Amadeus D-3, ul. Mikołajska 20, tel. (+48) 12 429 60
70, www.hotel-amadeus.pl. A posh effort inspired by the age
of Mozart with antique furnishings paired with state-of-the-art
trimmings. Prince Charles once bedded down here and this is
one place which guarantees the memorable stay that this historic
city requires. Q22 rooms (20 singles, 20 doubles, 2 apartments).
PTYJHARUFLGKDW hhhh
andel’s Hotel Cracow D-2, ul. Pawia 3, tel. (+48) 12
660 01 00, www.andelscracow.com. One of the first things
you’ll see when you step off the train is this ultra-modern hotel
designed by Jestico & Whiles, so there can be no doubt about
location. Full of odd curves, recessed floor and wall lighting,
Andel’s hosts a restaurant, bar, fitness studio, sauna and
massage services. Rooms feature LCD TVs, CD and DVD
players, in-house movies and light, bright colours, while the
rooftop terrace of the Andel’s apartment is simply unbeatable.
Q159 rooms (153 singles, 153 doubles, 6 apartments).
PTYHAR6UFGKDW hhhh
Best Western Kraków Old Town C-4, ul. Św. Gertrudy
6, tel. (+48) 12 422 76 66, www.bwkrakow.pl. The world’s
biggest hotel chain is late to the party but has finally made it
into Kraków’s Old Town, modernising this historic townhouse
to meet the Best Western standard. Whether you like the way
they went about it is a matter of taste we suppose, but note
that most of the rooms have a bold, avantgarde jazz theme;
that means piano key design motifs, wall-length close-ups
of drum kits, show posters and multi-coloured (thankfully
adjustable) lighting that all conspire to make the space look
more like a jazz-themed cocktail lounge than hotel. Room sizes
range from cramped to spacious, and some have a much more
classic design, so it’s worth selecting exactly where you’ll sleep
before you get your card out. On hand are also a bar, restaurant,
conference facilities and one of the only hotel parking
lots in the Old Town. Q92 rooms (92 singles, 91 doubles, 19
triples). PTHAUGKW hhh
Francuski C-2, ul. Pijarska 13, tel. (+48) 12 627 37 77,
www.hotel-francuski.com. After being recently purchased
by famous restaurateur and TV personality Adam Gessler,
the Francuski has undergone minor renovations to the interior
that have it looking better than ever. Here gold-braided doormen
and porters go about their business as the ground floor
Gessler restaurant stays packed around the clock. A grand
effort that oozes interwar elegance in a surprisingly quiet location
right near the Czartoryski Museum, Francuski squeezes
classic furniture into the rather tight quarters. Beds are large
and all rooms feature minibars, internet access and trouser
press. Best of all, breakfast and supper come included in
the price of your stay. Q42 rooms (4 singles, 23 doubles, 15
apartments). TJHAR6FGKW hhhh
Galaxy K-3, ul. Gęsia 22a, tel. (+48) 12 342 81 00,
www.galaxyhotel.pl. Officially opened in September 2011,
this enormous, modern hotel on the banks of the Vistula River
offers a variety of rooms, including some specifically designed
for families and others for those with disabilities. Oddly, the
price of a standard room includes access to the adjoining
spa’s indoor swimming pool, fitness club and hot tub free of
charge, but internet access (wifi or dataport) is an additional
5 Euros a day. As you’ll note from the stylish map in the centre
of the lobby, their location is well-placed for a walking-distance
journey across the river to Schindler’s Factory and the neighbouring
Museum of Contemporary Art, and generally more
ideal for exploring Podgórze and Kazimierz than the Old Town.
Q205 rooms (200 singles, 200 doubles, 50 triples, 5 suites).
PTHARUFLGKDCwW hhhh
Kraków In Your Pocket krakow.inyourpocket.com
krakow.inyourpocket.com
February - March 2013

28 HOTELS HOTELS 29
The Drowning of Marzanna
Despite the strong Catholic character of modern Poland,
some pagan traditions have endured. One of the most
blithely bizarre and eyebrow-raising is the spring equinox
celebration known as the Drowning of Marzanna (Topienie
Marzanny). Marzanna is the Polish incarnation of the old
Slavic goddess of with winter, plague and death. Fearing
her icy grasp, the best way for superstitious Slavs to
protect themselves, encourage the timely arrival of
spring and ensure a good harvest was to partake in an
old-fashioned witch-burning, followed by a drowning (just
to be sure). In medieval times the rite involved making a
Marzanna effigy out of straw which was then wrapped
in linen and beautified with ribbons and beads. On the
afternoon of March 21st, young children would play with/
torture the idol, gleefully parading it around and dunking it
in every trough and water barrel in the village. At dusk the
villagers would gather at the riverbank, setting the effigy
ablaze and tossing it into the water, cheering as the blazing
wretch disappeared downstream. Today the symbolic
folk custom survives, as every child in kindergarten and
primary school annually participates in the creation of a
Marzanna doll, which can range in size from small puppets
to life-sized dummies. Under adult supervision, Marzanna
is taken to the nearest riverbank or bridge, set ablaze and
thrown to its watery grave as the children sing springtime
and witch-burning songs. For example: Już wiosenne
słonko wzbija się po niebie | W tej wezbranej rzece
utopimy ciebie! (Loose IYP translation: As the spring
sun rises in the sky of blue | in this swollen river we
are drowning you!). Happy springtime, kids.
Hilton Garden Inn Kraków I-4, ul. Marii Konopnickiej
33, tel. (+48) 12 399 90 00, www.hgi.com. This
newest luxury hotel on the banks of the Wisła has more to
offer than just spectacular views of the river and Wawel.
The first Hilton Garden Inn to open in Poland, the brand
is designed to tame the tension of demanding businesspeople.
Rooms come with large workspaces, a separate
living area with a pull-out sofa, ergonomic chairs designed
to relax your back and fully-adjustable beds. Arguably the
most comfortable hotel room you’ve ever stayed in, a 24hour
business centre, fitness centre, conference facilities,
bar and 2 restaurants are also on hand. Q154 rooms (147
singles, 147 doubles, 7 apartments). PTHARUF
GKW hhhh
Hotel Unicus C-2, ul. Św. Marka 20, tel. (+48) 12
433 71 11, www.hotelunicus.pl. Nice choice. Located a
short walk from the train station and right on a corner of the
royal route it’s difficult to feel like you’re staying anywhere
other than the heart of the city. Modern convenience in an
elegant old building, the dapper rooms include everything
you’d expect from a new upmarket hotel and guests can enjoy
the use of a fitness room and sauna, as well as conference
facilities and a stylish restaurant with a lauded chef (Rafał
Targosz) calling shots behind the scenes. Q35 rooms (34
singles, 21 doubles, 1 apartment). PTHARFL
GKDW hhhh
Matejko D-1, Pl. Matejki 8, tel. (+48) 12 422 47
37, www.matejkohotel.pl. A grand effort inside a fully
restored tenement building near the Barbican. Swish,
spacious rooms come with rich colours and modern
trappings offering a fine balance between past and
present: wifi and satellite TV in each and the doubles
even come with proper beds. The restaurant is full of
stained glass, there’s a beer garden in summer and a
full set of business facilities to boot. Q48 rooms (45
singles, 42 doubles, 3 apartments). PTHAR
6UGKDW hhh
Novotel Kraków Centrum H-3, ul. Kościuszki 5, tel.
(+48) 12 299 29 00, www.novotel.com. Decorated with
pastel colours the Novotel Centrum offers all the comforts
you’d associate with a big brand name. The hotel includes airconditioning
from top-to-bottom, sauna, one of Kraków’s few
hotel pools and facilities fully geared towards the disabled.
The upper floors feature views overlooking Wawel Castle.
Q198 rooms (192 singles, 192 doubles, 6 apartments).
PTHA6UFGKDCwW hhhh
Novotel Kraków City West (formerly ‘Novotel
Kraków Bronowice’) F-2, ul. Armii Krajowej 11,
tel. (+48) 12 622 64 00, www.accorhotels.com.
Not the best location around, nor does it look like Prince
Charming’s palace from the outside, however this big
functional box hotel continues to make improvements for
the sake of comfort (be aware that some renovation work
will be going on until the end of February, though the hotel
remains open). The rooms are some of the largest in town
and would seem even more spacious if the beds weren’t
so big; with over 300 of them, this is still one of Kraków’s
larger hotels, and as such primed for large conferences
and tour groups casting a glance at the higher end of the
hotel market. The restaurant has expanded and the lobby
has been turned into a lounge with books and the daily
foreign press to peruse. Start the day with a few lengths
in the swimming pool, and finish it with late night cocktails
in their bar. You can also rent a bike from reception.
Q305 rooms (304 singles, 304 doubles, 1 apartment).
PTHAR6UGKDCW hhhh
Park Inn by Radisson Krakow A-7, ul. Monte
Cassino 2, tel. (+48) 12 375 55 55, www.parkinn.
com/hotel-krakow. One of Europe’s fastest-growing hotel
companies, Rezidor has plonked a modern colossus across
the Wisła from Kazimierz, which must be eyeing the interloper’s
simple, modern curves and colour scheme slightly
dubiously. This mid-ranger in Dębniki features a fitness
room and wellness centre, impressive business facilities,
a bar and grill restaurant, lots of parking and an additional
152 kitted-out rooms in Park Inn’s signature colours: looks
a bit like a Twister mat, but conjures fond memories. Q152
rooms (152 singles, 152 doubles). PTHAR6U
FLGKDW hhhh
Pod Różą (Under the Rose) C-3, ul. Floriańska
14, tel. (+48) 12 424 33 00, www.lhr.com.pl. A
beautifully restored historic hotel, and formerly the
stamping ground of Tsar Aleksander I and Franz Liszt.
Recent renovations have done nothing to disturb the
character and rooms come with state-of-the-art facilities,
Persian rugs and important looking antiques. Reputed
to be the oldest hotel in Kraków, the Latin inscription
above Pod Róża’s Renaissance doorway reads ‘May
this building stand until an ant drinks the ocean,
and a tortoise circles the earth’. So far, so good.
Q57 rooms (50 singles, 37 doubles, 7 apartments).
PTJHA6UFGKDW hhhh
Qubus Hotel Kraków J-4, ul. Nadwiślańska 6, tel.
(+48) 12 374 51 00, www.qubushotel.com. A cool
design includes an eye-catching wall that juts out at an
angle from the hotel’s façade. Air-conditioned rooms
come furnished to high standards and feature 26 inch
televisions, broadband internet as well as an ironing
board to help with keeping up appearances. Unsurpris-
ingly there’s a heavy business slant to this hotel, with
nine conference rooms to pick from, while for after-work
moments take timeout in the fitness centre - complete
with top floor swimming pool with views stretching over
central Kraków. Q194 rooms (183 singles, 170 doubles,
10 suites, 1 apartment). PTHAR6UFGK
DCW hhhh
Rubinstein Residence E-6, ul. Szeroka 12,
tel. (+48) 12 384 00 00, www.rubinstein.pl. It’s
no longer possible to refer to Kazimierz as Kraków’s
upcoming district. Kazimierz has well and truly arrived,
and this place is the proof. In keeping with the
spirit of the area rooms in the Rubinstein come with
elegant carved wood finishes, luxurious rugs and antique
details. Some feature restored timber ceilings,
and all are treated to modern finishes that include
gleaming bathrooms, air conditioning and digital TV.
Situated right in the thick of the tourist trail, so expect
a host of sights right on your doorstep. Q28 rooms
(23 singles, 19 doubles, 5 suites). PTHARF
GKDW hhhh
Mid-range
Amber B-2, ul. Garbarska 10, tel. (+48) 12 421
06 06, www.hotel-amber.pl. Set across two floors
and a loft the Amber combines pleasing cream and
caramel colours to compliment the light and modern
interiors. Rooms offer satellite TV and internet access,
as well as generous duvets in which to sink inside.
Found down a quiet street just minutes from all the
action. Q18 rooms (3 singles 229 - 349zł, 15 doubles
299 - 439zł, 8 triples 399 - 539zł). PTHAR
6UFGKDW hhh
Kraków In Your Pocket krakow.inyourpocket.com
krakow.inyourpocket.com
February - March 2013

30 HOTELS HOTELS 31
As a unique 3-star hotel located in a quiet part of Cracow
just 5km from the Market Square, we off er silence and
comfort to our many guests. Our hotel restaurant serves
delicious Polish and continental cuisine, while our guests
also have the use of an outdoor barbecue grill. We also
off er a sauna and tanning bed.
Ul. Ruczaj 44, 30-409 Kraków
tel. +48 12 269 10 00, fax +48 12 269 20 30
e-mail: ruczaj@ruczajhotel.pl
www.ruczajhotel.pl
Ascot Hotel E-3, ul. Radziwiłłowska 3, tel. (+48)
12 384 06 06, www.hotelascot.pl. A modern front
shields a sharply designed hotel that includes reprints
of classic works by Tamara Lempicka in the lobby,
and free internet access inside each room. Smartly
appointed rooms come with reddish carpets and
bouncy beds, while the shining white bathrooms also
include hairdryers - not always a given in Poland. Q49
rooms (49 singles, 36 doubles, 7 triples, 2 quads).
PTHA6ULGW hhh
Campanile D-3, ul. Św. Tomasza 34, tel. (+48) 12 424
26 00, www.campanile.com. Following the Euro2012
madness, the rooms and interiors got a full freshening
up. Brightly decorated in the franchise’s flagship colours
of cream and green, amenities include satellite TV and
bathtubs. Within fast walking distance of the train station,
ask for a room on one of the top-floors for views overlooking
the surrounding Planty Park. Q106 rooms (105 singles, 105
doubles, 43 triples, 1 suite). PTJHA6UGW
hh
Chopin Cracow K-2, ul. Przy Rondzie 2, tel. (+48)
12 299 00 00, www.chopinhotel.com. A modern
building in a central location well-connected to transport
points, Chopin features stylishly-designed interiors,
including clean, colourful rooms, a western attitude to
service, free wifi, fitness centre with sauna, restaurant,
bar, conference facilities and more. Recent renovations,
as well as regular promotions, make this a very good
choice for the money. Q220 rooms (219 singles, 219
doubles, 1 apartment). PTHAR6UFLG
KDXW hhh
Classic D-3, ul. Św. Tomasza 32, tel. (+48) 12 424 03
03, www.hotel-classic.pl. The work of a Danish architect,
Classic combines clean lines and sleek furnishings with an
exterior that slots in neatly with the surrounding Old Town.
All rooms come with satellite TV, internet connection and
air-conditioning. Q31 rooms (26 singles, 26 doubles, 5
triples, 5 apartments). PTJAR6UGW hhh
Eden E-6, ul. Ciemna 15, tel. (+48) 12 430 65 65, www.
hoteleden.pl. A modern Kazimierz hotel that caters to all,
but keeps Jewish guests in mind with fragments of the Torah
on the doors, Kraków’s only truly kosher restaurant, original
paintings of Kazimierz life, and the only mikveh (Jewish ritual
bath house) in Poland. Q27 rooms (25 singles, 21 doubles, 5
triples, 2 suites). THA6UGDW hhh
Ibis Kraków Centrum A-5, ul. Syrokomli 2, tel. (+48)
12 299 33 00, www.accorhotels.com. You know what to
expect with the Ibis brand. While not an adventurous choice,
the team behind the French franchise show an unflagging
commitment to maintaining international standards and
high-grade service. A central location, spotless furnishings
and a refresh as recently as August 2012 only add to the
appeal. Q175 rooms (175 singles, 175 doubles). PT
JA6UGKW hh
Ibis Kraków Stare Miasto ul. Pawia 15, tel. (+48)
12 355 29 00, www.accorhotels.com. A bit more
plush than Ibis’ nearby budget hotel, this trusted brand
guarantees a modern, wifi-enabled and - perhaps most
importantly - soundproof room fitted with a bed that’s
likely more comfortable than whatever you’ve got at
home. Amenities outside the room include a 24-hour bar
for guests and a restaurant ready to serve you something
to eat no matter what the hour. We don’t know many
other hotels that cater to your needs around the clock
like that...well, except for Ibis’ other almost 1,000 other
hotels around the world. Seems to be a winning formula.
Q135 rooms (135 singles, 135 doubles, 16 triples).
PTHA6UGKW
Karmel E-6, ul. Kupa 15, tel. (+48) 12 430 67 00,
www.karmel.com.pl. Smack bang in the middle of the
action, this classic Kazimierz three-star gem may not offer
the most spacious rooms in the city but what it lacks in
square metres it more than makes up for with other things.
Friendly and genuinely helpful staff oversee everything
nicely, plonking chocolates on pillows and providing tea- and
coffee-making facilities in all the rooms. There’s free wireless
internet too, and a decentish cold buffet breakfast served in
the downstairs restaurant. Q11 rooms (4 singles, 6 doubles,
1 suite). PTHAR6GKW hhh
Klezmer Hois E-6, ul. Szeroka 6, tel. (+48) 12 411
12 45, www.klezmer.pl. A former mikveh (Jewish ritual
bath house) has been converted into a spacious hotel with
pleasant staff and sometimes very large rooms. The bathhouse
in the cellar is now an occasional theatre. Q10 rooms
(7 singles, 7 doubles, 3 apartments). THA6GKW
Pod Wawelem B-5, Pl. Na Groblach 22, tel. (+48) 12
426 26 25, www.hotelpodwawelem.pl. A small hotel with
a futuristic look and a location that stands in the shadow
of Wawel Castle. Smart rooms come in pale lemon colours
with internet access and BBC available to veg in front of
the television. Find modern bathrooms attached to each
room, and a sharply designed restaurant on the ground
floor. Q48 rooms (47 singles, 42 doubles, 1 apartment).
PTHA6UGKDW hhh
Pollera D-3, ul. Szpitalna 30, tel. (+48) 12 422 10 44,
www.pollera.com.pl. A beautiful stained-glass window by
Stanisław Wyspiański over the staircase is the first thing to
catch the eye. The bathrooms and furnishings are old but
functional and the rooms are otherwise fully equipped. You
might not get all new amenities, but you do get 175-yearold
tradition. Q42 rooms (31 singles, 24 doubles, 7 triples,
2 quads, 2 apartments). PTJHA6GW hhh
Royal C-5, ul. Św. Gertrudy 26-29, tel. (+48) 12 421
35 00, www.hotelewam.pl. This utterly charming hotel
in an art nouveau turn of the century building gives you
an experience you could only have in Kraków, and that’s
a statement many pricier hotels can’t make. Authentic in
every way - from the reception area with a canopied desk,
glass phone booth and wonderful secessionist staircase, to
the spacious rooms fitted with pre-war furnishings, carpets
and wallpapers - as Royal’s facilities have recently been
modernised (now garnering 3 stars) the style has stayed
exactly as it was a hundred years ago. The unbeatable
location directly faces Wawel castle from the confines of
Planty Park, and the ground floor bar/cafe and Pod Wawelem
restaurant are just more reasons to recommend this romantic
old world hotel. It’s where we would stay in Krakow
if we didn’t already live here. Q97 rooms (33 singles, 30
doubles, 9 triples, 12 quads, 10 suites, 3 apartments).
PTJHA6UGKW hhh
Ruczaj G-5, ul. Ruczaj 44, tel. (+48) 12 269 10 00,
www.ruczajhotel.com.pl. Set in a new but classically
stylish building in a residential area, the Ruczaj is a lovely
hotel for those willing to taxi into town. Some rooms boast
unique balconies while all rooms come furnished with an
individual touch. Q45 rooms (25 singles, 17 doubles, 12
triples, 4 quads, 4 suites). PTHAR6UKDW
hhh
Witkacy
Eccentric, flamboyant and tragic, Stanisław Ignacy
Witkiewicz - remembered as ‘Witkacy’ (1885-1939) –
was one of Poland’s premier avant-garde icons. A prolific
playwright, painter and photographer, the Warsaw-born,
Zakopane-reared weirdo was at the forefront of Polish
abstract art. The mysterious suicide of his fiancé in 1914
(whom he was accused of butchering) compelled him to
seek solace in Australasia where he became involved in
scientific expeditions. On hearing of the outbreak of WWI
he returned to Poland and served with distinction against
the Germans before being wounded and continuing his
descent into the depression that was to dominate his life.
As he plunged into heavy spells of morphine, cocaine and
peyote abuse his paintings became all the more inspired.
Twisted portraits of his high-society friends (heads springing
from penises, beastly animal shapes flying in the background)
became his trademark. He experimented with all forms of modern
art, started his own theatre company in Zakopane (an hour
south of Kraków) and expanded on his philosophical theories.
A rabid anti-communist, Witkacy was hell-bent on proving
that an individual’s aims would always be different from
that of society and state. When the Red Army crossed into
Poland on October 17, 1939, sensing the end of civilisation,
he shot himself. Originally buried in a far-flung corner of
the Ukraine, Witkacy’s body was returned to Zakopane
in 1988. But in a scene that wouldn’t have been amiss
in one of his satires, it eventually emerged that bungling
officials had buried the wrong corpse – the subject at the
centre of the excellent Polish film ‘Mystyfikacja’ (available
with English subtitles). Visitors to Kraków can see a large
collection Witkacy’s wacked-out paintings on the top floor
of the National Museum (H-3, Al. 3 Maja 1).
Kraków In Your Pocket krakow.inyourpocket.com
krakow.inyourpocket.com
February - March 2013

32 HOTELS HOTELS 33
Wawel C-4, ul. Poselska 22, tel. (+48) 12 424
13 00, www.hotelwawel.pl. Already one of the top
mid-range offers in the city centre, Wawel was the
beneficiary of a recent renovation, making it even
more of a steal. Set inside a historic townhouse,
some of the 19th century secessionist touches have
survived, including the glass roof of the entrance and
iron balustrade of the stairwell. A magnificent muralled
courtyard will have you wishing it was summer all
year round, while the fabulous mosaicked wellness
centre will have you not caring to step outside at all.
Q39 rooms (39 singles, 28 doubles, 1 apartment).
PTJHARGKDW hhh
Wielopole D-4, ul. Wielopole 3, tel. (+48) 12 422 14
75, www.wielopole.pl. An incredibly good deal found three
minutes from the Old Town. Simple, spotless and recommended,
this hotel features a matey welcome in reception,
and large rooms decked out in soft browns. Q35 rooms (9
singles, 27 doubles, 6 triples). PTAR6ULGKW
hhh
Wyspiański D-3, ul. Westerplatte 15, tel. (+48)
12 422 95 66, www.hotel-wyspianski.pl. While the
blockish façade doesn’t promise much, the Wyspiański
is well worth every one of its three stars. Rooms have
been thoroughly modernised and feature rather natty
patterned duvets, private bathrooms and televisions.
The gleaming coaches regularly parked outside testify
to its popularity amongst tour groups. Q231 rooms
(150 singles, 109 doubles, 81 triples). OTYHA
R6ULGKW hhh
Budget
Ibis Budget Kraków Bronowice F-2, Al. Armii Krajowej
11a, tel. (+48) 12 626 11 45, www.accorhotels.com.
Some distance from the city centre, but a solid bet, and like all
Ibis hotels it offers terrific value for your money. The tiny little
rooms pack a powerful punch and have comfy beds, flatscreen
televisions, enormous windows and impressive bathrooms (with
shower, no bath). For what you pay you get a hell of a lot here,
including a buffet breakfast. Recommended. Q120 rooms (120
singles, 120 doubles, 16 triples). PTA6UGW h
Ibis Budget Kraków Stare Miasto ul. Pawia 11, tel.
(+48) 12 355 29 50, www.accorhotels.com. Amongst
the best budget hotels in Europe, with Ibis you get a reliable
brand at the right price, and this one is outstandingly located
near Kraków’s train station, only minutes from the market
square - really, it couldn’t be easier. Earning plus marks for cost,
convenience, and comfort as well, the rooms aren’t overly spacious,
but include cosy beds with extra fluffy pillows and duvets,
flatscreen TVs and free wifi. Modernly styled with plenty of colour
and personality, while some budget options can be downright
crude, Ibis Budget is outright charming, ensuring a happy sleep.
Q167 rooms (167 singles, 167 doubles). PTA6UGW
Tournet D-6, ul. Miodowa 7, tel. (+48) 12 292 00 88,
www.accommodation.krakow.pl. Excellent pension-style
accommodation in the heart of the Kazimierz quarter. Rooms
come with clean bathrooms, colourful duvets and effective heating.
The more expensive rooms have TVs and huge double beds,
while all have a kettle and alarm clock. Also find an in-house restaurant
- Czarny Kocioł (The Black Cauldron) - downstairs. Q18
rooms (17 singles, 16 doubles, 10 triples). TA6GKW
Apartments
Apartment Cracow C-2, ul. Floriańska 39, tel. (+48)
12 431 00 26, www.apartmentcracow.com. Several
locations around the historic centre - including the Floriańska
and Grodzka Aparthotels - with accommodation fitting up to
six people. Take a look at these prices, they are basically unbeatable.
All apartments come with fully fitted kitchens, satellite
TV and internet access, and rooms come with a pleasant
modern aesthetic. Airport pick-up can also be arranged. Q30
rooms (30 apartments). TJA6UGKW
Apartmenthouse Grodzka C-3, ul. Grodzka 4, tel.
(+48) 12 421 48 35, www.grodzka.net.pl. Top-rate accommodation
with facilities that include fridge, LAN and cable
TV. The interiors are a tasteful mix of old and new: original
brickwork and timber touches combined with chic designer
furnishings. Q15 rooms (15 apartments). TA6GW
B&B La Fontaine C-3, ul. Sławkowska 1, tel. (+48) 12
422 65 64, www.bblafontaine.com. These high standard
apartments right in the heart of the city come furnished in
a chic, modern style decorated with relaxing scarlet and
white colours. All have microwave ovens, air-conditioning,
hairdryers and high-speed internet connection, however the
hike up to the third floor may not suit all guests. Q7 rooms
(7 apartments). PTA6GKW
Hostels & Dorms
Flamingo Hostel B-3, ul. Szewska 4, tel. (+48) 12 422
00 00, www.flamingo-hostel.com. Consistently ranked
as one of the best hostels, not only in Kraków but the world,
Flamingo builds its reputation on the friendliness of the
staff and their willingness to give guests personal tours of
the city’s seedy nightlife, much of which takes place directly
across the street. Small, colourful and comfortable with a
nice common area, rooms range in size from doubles to ten
bed dormitories and the facilities on offer include free internet
use, laundry and kitchen. The hostel also operates apartments
on ul. Długa (C-1) and ul. Podwale (B-3). Q16 rooms (2
singles, 2 doubles, 8 apartments, 44 Dorm beds). AGW
Greg & Tom D-2, ul. Pawia 12/7, tel. (+48) 12 422 41
00, www.gregtomhostel.com. A top hostel offering internet
and DVD player, as well as hostel standards such as kitchen
and linen. Aside from a guaranteed warm welcome, the biggest
boon here is a refusal to pack rooms out with as many beds as
possible, making it ideal for travelling couples. Clean, modern
furnishings, this is as chic as hostelling gets. Note that there is an
age(ist) policy of only accepting 18-60s. Also a second location
at ul. Zyblikiewicza 9 (D-3) and from March a third location at
ul. Floriańska 43 (C-2) that includes a restaurant and pub. Q8
rooms (3 singles, 3 doubles, 3 triples, 23 Dorm beds). AGW
The Secret Garden Hostel D-7, ul. Skawińska 7, tel.
(+48) 12 430 54 45, www.thesecretgarden.pl. Secret
Garden Hostel is part of a new wave of low-cost options, and it’s
also one of the best. Certainly the most colourful, quarters come
with names that leave no doubt over what colours to expect on
opening the door, from Clockwork Orange to Vanilla Sky via Mint
Sorbet. Dorms come with comfortable pine bunks, while private
rooms are neat, simple efforts, with the addition of wrought
iron furnishings and colourful bed spreads. The common room
features low-slung sofas and a DVD library to put to the test,
plus there’s laundry services, free internet access and a garden
for barbecues if the season is right. Secret Garden Hostel also
has six fantastic apartments close to the main hostel with three
others nearby in Kazimierz. Q23 rooms (17 singles, 17 doubles,
4 triples, 1 quad, 14 Dorm beds). TA6UGW
A Polish Easter
Palm Sunday (24/03/2013) marks the official beginning
of Poland’s Easter festivities – perhaps the country’s
most sacred holiday. Leading up to the season you’ll see
decorative handmade palms for sale all over Kraków’s
market square. These traditional decorations made
from a variety of dried flowers and plants are crafted in
villages all over Poland. Palms are taken to church on
Sunday to be blessed before decorating homes for the
duration of the season.
As a deeply Catholic country, Poland takes its Easter
celebrations seriously; throughout the period,
the visiting foreigner can expect most shops and
many bars and restaurants to be either empty or
closed beginning on Good Friday (29/03/2013).
A traditional day of abstinence, dutifully observing
Catholics visit church to attend stations of the cross
– a series of prayers following Jesus Christ’s route
to his crucifixion.
On Easter Saturday
(30/03/2013) Poles,
typically children, bring
brightly decorated baskets
of food to church
to have them blessed.
These baskets traditionally
contain a piece of
sausage, bread, egg, mazurek cake (a traditional Easter
cake), some salt, some horseradish and a symbolic ram
made from dough. In addition ‘pisanki’ are included -
painted boiled eggs which have been prepared in the
lead-up to Easter by the whole family. Each of these
components of the basket has a symbolic meaning.
The eggs and meat symbolise new life, fertility and
health, the salt protects against bad spirits and helps
you follow the right path, the bread symbolise the
body of Christ and by this future prosperity in terms of
always having food to feed yourself, the horseradish
represents strength and physical health and the cake
represents skills and talents needed for the coming
year. Rezurekcja (Resurrection), a traditional mass with
procession, is held Saturday night or Easter morning
depending on parish tradition.
On Easter Sunday (31/03/2013), families gather
together to celebrate with an Easter breakfast of żurek
(Polish rye soup), bread, eggs, sausage, horseradish and
poppy seed cakes. Each person places a small piece
of the blessed food on their plate before exchanging
wishes with other members of the family. The symbolic
dough ram is placed on the table to symbolise the resurrection
of Christ.
Things take a more light-hearted twist on Easter Monday
(01/04/2013). Known as Śmingus Dyngus the
day is dominated by public water fights and everyone
is given carte blanche to drench anyone they see with
water. You, as a foreigner, are not exempt from this
practise, so move fast if you see someone armed with
a water pistol or bucket and a grin. Although it’s never
pleasant to have a jug of water thrown over your head,
this is an improvement from the past when young
people were beaten with sticks from Palm Sunday
trees – explained away as bringing luck and strength
for the year ahead.
Kraków In Your Pocket krakow.inyourpocket.com
krakow.inyourpocket.com
February - March 2013

34 RESTAURANTS
Dining at a Glance
With the development of the market in Krakow, the
number of places to eat is now extremely wide, though
diversity seems to have been abandoned in favour of filling
every Old Town locale with a Polish-Italian restaurant.
These are of course the two types of cuisine that Kraków
does well, while ethnic food is still too often compromised
in an attempt to make it more acceptable to the Polish
palate. As such, Kraków’s esteemed culinary rep is rated
as a bit generous by some in the industry.
While In Your Pocket once listed every venue in the
city, the explosion of the market and sheer redundancy
of many places now makes it impossible for us to list
everything. In this section you’ll find reviews of what we
feel are the most note-worthy or high-profile establishments
in town, in order to help you find a place worthy of
your time and money, as well as avoid those with prime
locations that are not worth visiting. While our print guide
carries a wide selection, there are even more listed on
our website where we encourage you to leave your own
reviews of the places you’ve visited.
All reviews are updated regularly, completely subjective
and unsolicited. The figures we quote in brackets
represent the cheapest and costliest main courses on
the menu. The opening hours we list are given to us by
the restaurants but are rough guidelines as to when
you can expect the chef to be working. Below is a list of
recommendations depending on what you’re looking for.
SPLURGE: Wierzynek remains the king of Kraków - the
city’s oldest and most upscale restaurant, right on the
Rynek. Pod Róża isn’t far behind, but if you want fine
dining that doesn’t bludgeon you over the head with huge
hunks of meat, our top picks are the French Cyrano de
Bergerac and the sophisticated wine list and seasonal
cuisine of Copernicus.
CHEAP: A traditional Polish milk bar is as cheap as
you’ll eat anywhere with a menu in your life, and the
clearly marked ‘Bar Mleczny’ at ul. Grodzka 43 (C-4) is
the easiest to find. For something Polish with a bit of
atmosphere try Polakowski. If you’re not a fan of Polish
food, Bagelmama is tough to beat or head to Momo
for something healthy and - you’ll never guess - green.
LADS: Take up a stein, tuck in your bib and feast like
a king for pauper prices in one of Kraków’s two breweries
- CK Browar and Stara Zajezdnia, or try Pod
Wawelem where the bathroom features a vomitorium
for those who over-consume. For less of a proper meal
hit up a Zakąski Przekąski (see our box) for ‘Polish
tapas’ and cheap beer.
FAMILIES: Take the nippers straight to one of Kraków’s
two family-friendly cafes, the Old Town’s Mamy Cafe
and Kazimierz’s Cafe Culca; both are great places for
a pit stop, play date, proper meal or simple recharging
of the parental batteries. You’ll be glad you found them.
COUPLES: Finding a romantic spot in this city is not
difficult. The city itself is a marvellous backdrop for a
romantic weekend and with cafes and restaurants seemingly
on every corner and in every courtyard you shouldn’t
have to search far. Try Resto Illuminati, Marmolada,
Trufla or Aqua e Vino, or for a particularly memorable
evening, take a cab out to enjoy the outstanding views
at U Ziyada.
American
Bagelmama E-6, ul. Dajwór 10, tel. (+48) 12 346 16
46, www.bagelmama.com. Long known as Kazimierz’s link
with the western world, Bagelmama brings an NYC deli staple
back to the city where it’s speculated that the doughy ring may
even have been invented all those years ago; and ironically
across from Poland’s oldest synagogue no less. Inside this
big, bright café you’re likely to meet Nava, it’s Yankee owner,
as he scurries back and forth filling orders, refilling coffees and
chatting with customers. A variety of fresh bagels come with
the toppings of your choice, with options including sun-dried
tomato cream cheese, humus, alfalfa sprouts, fresh salmon
and more. Burritos are back on the menu, plus soup, wraps,
falafel and the new bagel burger. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sun
09:00 - 19:00. (7-21zł). TA6UGSW
Grande Grill C-3, Rynek Główny 16, tel. (+48) 12 424
96 21, www.grandegrill.pl. Contrasting with the inflexible
traditionalism of Wierzynek, this fresher effort from the same
team behind Kraków’s most famous restaurant balances modern
styling and cuisine with its medieval setting. The seasonal
garden packed with plants hanging from timber beams has long
been regarded as one of the best in town, and the addition of a
stylish indoor dining area has made this an excellent year-round
venue. The menu is a simple selection of steaks, salads ad
burgers, all expertly made-to-order with the kind of service you
would expect from the city’s most established restaurateurs.
QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (14-112zł). TAGSW
Hard Rock Cafe C-3, Pl. Mariacki 9, tel. (+48) 12 429
11 55, www.hardrock.com/krakow. The international Hard
Rock Cafe chain has set up shop on some of the city’s most
hallowed ground next to St. Mary’s Basilica. Inside you’ll find an
absurdly large number of staff members milling around amongst
rock memorabilia including a pair of Elton John’s spectacles to
an unplayable home-made guitar from Polish legends T. Love.
Featuring a modern interior stacked over three levels, stop by
to enjoy a juicy burger while gazing at a scarf John Lennon once
wore. QOpen 10:00 - 23:30. (37-115zł). PTAUGW
SomePlace Else A-5, ul. Powiśle 7 (Sheraton Kraków),
tel. (+48) 12 662 16 70, krakow.someplace-else.pl. Attached
to the Sheraton Hotel SPE is more than a hotel restaurant,
for expats this is every bit as good as a one-way ticket home.
The menu is a classic countdown of Uncle Sam’s favourite bar
food including nachos and some other Tex-Mex offerings. As the
rock memorabilia and diner décor suggests, this place doesn’t
take itself as seriously as most hotel eateries, and it’s one of
your best bets for catching the game of your choice, be it NFL or
MLB. Loosen the tie and belt at the same time. QOpen 16:00 -
23:30, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 23:30. (39-96zł). PTAUGSW
Asian
Yellow Dog A-2, ul. Krupnicza 9/1, tel. (+48) 603 11 31
39. Across from arguably the best cafe in town, you’ll find one
of Kraków’s most exciting eating experiences. Cherry-picking
the best dishes of Thai, Vietnamese, Indian and other Asian
cuisines (pad thai, pho bo, beef redang to name a few), Yellow
Dog’s clever menu gives you a brief background to entice you
towards each delicious entree. The side dishes - which include
edamame, tom yum and satay chicken - will give you reason
enough to fast for days before dropping in, and don’t forget
the green tea cheesecake for dessert. Many of the dishes
are gluten-free and all are outstanding. Making it all the more
stylish is a slick, modern-minimal interior with large street-side
windows and a bouncy hip-hop soundtrack. Definitely recommended
and worthy of repeat visits. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00,
Sun 12:00 - 21:00. (22-42zł). PTA6GSW
Kraków In Your Pocket krakow.inyourpocket.com

36 RESTAURANTS RESTAURANTS 37
Czech
Ceska Chodba A-4, ul. Zwierzyniecka 30, tel.
(+48) 12 421 05 62, www.ceska.chodba.pl. The
prevailing Polish impression of things Czech - from
the language to the country’s pop culture - is that
it’s all basically a wonky, absurd or surreal version
of its familiar Polish equivalent. You can safely add
Czech food to that list as well, which - as visitors to
this popular cellar restaurant will discover - is not
that much of a departure from Polish food, aside from
some subtle nuances. Take the two-person Czech
sampler for example, featuring exotic dishes like roast
pork neck, goulash, dumplings, fried cheese coated
in breadcrumbs and baked potatoes (who ever heard
of such things?). It’s all a bargain and quite delicious
of course, but what’s the best thing about a Czech
restaurant? The beer, naturally, and here you have a
wide selection of the country’s finest served in manly
steins. As far as we know, the true Czech way is to
drink your dinner. QOpen 12:00 - 22:30. (14-42zł).
TAUEGSW
Diego & Bohumil C-5, ul. Św. Sebastiana 6, tel. (+48)
12 426 01 01. Presumably the Bohumil side of this unique
enterprise, Diego i Bohumil combines Czech and Argentinean
cuisine in one locale through the friendship of the two
owners. The menu is split evenly between the two, and the
multi-lingual menu helpfully reveals that almost every Czech
entree seems to be a slight variation on a familiar Polish dish
like goulash, potato pancakes or fried cheese; not that that’s
a bad thing. Simple, solid and affordable, DiB is big on friendly,
not fancy, making it a great place for after-work gatherings,
watching a football match or relaxing on the quiet terrace (in
season). Good selection of Argentinean wines and now more
Czech beers than ever before. QOpen 16:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat,
Sun 11:00 - 23:00. (16-65zł). TIGSW
French
Cyrano de Bergerac C-2, ul. Sławkowska 26, tel.
(+48) 12 411 72 88, www.cyranodebergerac.pl.
Kraków’s finest French restaurant is a magnificent white
tablecloth affair, steeped in tradition and famed throughout
the city for scores of dishes including an exceptional foie gras
and the occasional experimental hit. Located in a medieval
cellar against a backdrop of antiques and tapestries, if you’re
going to commit splurgery while in town, there are few better
places to do it than here, and that’s a fact recognized by
none other than the Michelin Guide. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00.
(42-96zł). TAGW
La Fontaine C-3, ul. Sławkowska 1, tel. (+48) 12 422
65 64, www.lafontaine-restaurant.pl. The courtyard terrace
is the pick of places to eat at La Fontaine, though the
interior has a pleasing elegance as well when there’s a gale
outside. Here delicious French food is served by a well-trained
staff who actually appear to enjoy what they do. So does
the chef, clearly, as he turns out wonderful dishes such as
roasted goose breast with mango, peach and honey-vinegar
juice. The set tasting menus are a good value at 58-78zł.
QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (26-58zł). PTA6X
Zazie Bistro E-6, ul. Józefa 34, tel. (+48) 500 41 08
29, www.zaziebistro.pl. While no stranger to fine French
dining, this pleasant Kazimierz eatery is the closest Kraków
has come to a casual Parisian bistro, complete with classic
set meals (including an appetiser, main and dessert) for an
affordable 39zł, and all the French culinary hallmarks like escargot,
fantastic creme brulee and quiche that you can order
by size from 1/8th to the whole pie. Set over two levels, the
ground floor tries its luck at looking like a Parisian sidewalk
terrace with a wall-length mural of France’s famous phallus
landmark, interior streetlights and even a candy-striped
roll-out canopy over one table; head to the cellar for a more
romantic atmosphere of candlelight and wine racks. Overall
a great way to enjoy French cuisine without indulging any
stereotypes about snobbery. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat
12:00 - 24:00. (26-38zł). PTA6GSW
Hungarian
Balaton C-4, ul. Grodzka 37, tel. (+48) 12 422 04 69,
www.balaton.krakow.pl. This veteran restaurant and its
mature, no-nonsense waitresses have aged well, not changing
a whit since establishing itself as one of the city’s first
restaurants. Sure, the rustic folk interior is a bit outdated,
but the food is still a bargain, with portions so big you’d be
wise to share that plate of goulash-smothered potato pancakes
- even the soups and stews can represent a meal on
their own. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00. (20-50zł). PTAGS
Deli Bar D-6, ul. Meiselsa 5, tel. (+48) 12 430 64 04,
www.delibar.pl. This small, poorly named, but long-running
Hungarian outfit in Kazimierz is the best the city has to offer,
serving up an extensive menu of greasy, spicy and filling
feast food from PL’s ally to the south. The ‘Deli Tal’ platter
for two is a great way to sample the house specialties and
also a great value, though this humble restaurant full of pop
music is hardly the best choice for a romantic dinner. Still,
the price to quality ratio is positively off-the-scale and after
consuming bland Polish food day after day, having a flavourful
Hungarian feed will remind you of the joy of eating. QOpen
13:00 - 22:00, Mon 13:00 - 20:00, Fri, Sat 13:00 - 23:00,
Sun 13:00 - 21:00. (10-30zł). TUGSW
Indian
Bombaj Tandoori E-6, ul. Szeroka 7-8, tel. (+48) 12
422 37 97, www.restauracjabombaj.pl. All around not
a bad effort, but a bit hit-or-miss: the Dupiaza is excellent,
but the same couldn’t be said for the Vindaloo or Chicken
Masala Bhuna Gosht on our visits. And ordering your entree
‘extra spicy’ here certainly won’t leave your kids orphaned.
If nothing else it’s a decent diversion from all the menorahs
and prayer shawls on display in neighbouring restaurants.
Find a pleasant interior with patterned tablecloths, pics of
Himalayan mountain scenes and photo albums of the staff
and guests’ journeys in the homeland. Bollywood dance
performances are also organised in the summer garden.
QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00. (18-42zł).
PTA6UIVEGSW
Indus Tandoor C-2, ul. Sławkowska 13-15, tel. (+48)
12 423 22 82, www.indus.pl. Following a freshening-up
the reds, golds, greens and lotus patterns of Indus’s interior
look sharper than ever, but it’s the spacious new summer
garden full of colourful draped fabrics that we prefer when
the weather’s warm. The near constant line of people filing
in and out speaks to the high quality of the food, and while
spice levels rarely threaten to reach volcanic, Indus is a vast
improvement on the ethnic experience of yesteryear. Try the
business lunch specials for a fantastic value. QOpen 12:00
- 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00. (20-46zł). PTAGS
Roti Roti D-7, ul. Węgłowa 4, tel. (+48) 12 395 70 04,
www.rotiroti.pl. With all the growing number of Indian restaurants
in Kraków these days, Roti Roti refreshingly keeps
it at rickshaw level, ditching the gold tapestries and icons
to deliver authentic Indian street food in a modern cafeteria
setting. The signature menu item is roti - Asian wraps made
from fresh-baked unleavened bread, but the menu has
expanded to include other Indian dishes, many of which are
vegan and gluten-free. Though this take-away fast food takes
a bit too long and the small portions could use some rice to
fill them out, the results are undeniably delicious and make
a great alternative to low-quality city-wide kebabs. QOpen
12:00 - 22:00. (15-35zł). TUVGSW
International
Amadeus D-3, ul. Mikołajska 20 (Amadeus Hotel),
tel. (+48) 12 423 03 40, www.restauracja-amadeus.
pl. Classy staff serve Polish and European classics taken
to new heights in the sumptuous surroundings of frescos
and 17th century furnishings. In other words, a treat. Try
the classic żurek soup - few places do it better - before
moving on to more notable nosh like the venison that will
have you wondering how such simple flavours can be so
rich. The superior quality of this establishment has been
grandfathered into Kraków’s restaurant scene, and offers
the rare chance to eat well right off of Mozart’s flatwared
face. Q Open 07:00-11:00, 14:00-23:00. (29-72zł).
PTYAUGW
Andromeda K-3, ul. Gęsia 22a (Galaxy Hotel), tel.
(+48) 12 342 81 42, www.galaxyhotel.pl. This large,
modern restaurant is not only spacious but also mildly spacethemed
in keeping with the aesthetic of the Galaxy Hotel it’s
located in. Tables are elegantly dressed, but the best bit of
style you’ll find in Andromeda will be on your plate, as the
kitchen goes the extra mile in terms of aesthetic presentation.
Try the chef specialty ‘lamb braised in red wine with
fresh garlic and vegetable’ while enjoying views of the Wisła
and Kotlarski bridge. Q Open 06:30 - 10:30, 12:00 - 23:00.
(25-65zł). PTAUEGSW
Kraków In Your Pocket krakow.inyourpocket.com
krakow.inyourpocket.com
February - March 2013

38 RESTAURANTS RESTAURANTS 39
Burgers
Nothing’s more trendy in the capital right now than
‘boutique burger bars’ (despite that terminology
making us nauseous), and because clever business
concepts are pirated almost as much as films and
music in PL, now they’re popping up like mushrooms
around the country’s second city as well. Below we
list the best places to satisfy your burger craving
in Kraków.
Love Krove D-6, ul. Brzozowa 17, tel. (+48)
793 79 32 12. Full of strange graffiti, slick graphics
and a collection of wind-up robots, this hipster
headquarters even includes a downstairs art gallery.
As for food, Love Krove takes the burger concept
and pushes it beyond your expectations; in fact, well
beyond the capacity of your open mouth and maybe
your stomach too. These burgers are so stacked with
tantalising toppings (including guacamole, gorgonzola,
rucola, chorizo and more) you can hardly fit them in
your face, and it’s good sport watching the locals try
to knife and fork them (sigh). Served on a fresh roll,
most of the burgers on the menu come overflowing
with mustard, mayo, salsa or sauce, meaning you
may want to build your own to make eating less of a
mess. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 23:00.
(13-18zł). TA6GSW
Moaburger D-3, ul. Mikołajska 3, tel. (+48) 12
421 21 44, www.moaburger.com. Like most things
from New Zealand, Moaburger is very proud, making
it clear from the kiwi iconography and info all over the
interior that this is an NZ take on the classic American
burger and shake shack. As far as the food goes,
they’ve certainly super-sized it: burgers come served
on a tray (a plate just wouldn’t do) and you might even
consider splitting one with a friend if you any other
meals planned later in the day. Piled with the toppings
of your choice, in contrast to Love Krove, Moaburgers
aren’t a mess to eat. In fact they’re darn enjoyable,
though you’ll discover it’s not exactly the cheapest meal
out, with a burger, fries and a drink coming in over 30zł.
QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 21:00. (11-28zł).
PTA6GSW
NEW
Moo Moo Steak & Burger Club D-3, ul.
Świętego Krzyża 15, tel. (+48) 531 00 70 97.
Carved from the same cow as the current food fad
that has recently over-run the capital, on first glance
this ‘club’ looks exclusive indeed, with runway waitresses,
collared clientele and a minimal, modern
black and white interior that looks more designed
for a romantic date, than spreading your face over
a beef patty (and vice versa). The menu reveals an
array of options from tartare to trout, but where’s the
beef? In the delicious, but not too dense burgers, of
which there are 17 variations, including chicken and
vegetarian substitutes. Patties are thin and oblong,
as are the buns, so that when cut in half you have
what would pass in most places as two burgers on
your plate. Steaks are offered at two weights so that
you don’t get priced out, and the prevailingly realistic
prices and random music playlist make this place a
lot less pretentious than it first appears, and one we’ll
be coming back to. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00. (20-60zł).
PTAUVGS
Aperitif C-3, ul. Sienna 9, tel. (+48) 12 432 33 33,
www.aperitif.com.pl. This city-centre bargain near Mały
Rynek features a creamy interior livened by bright orange
tablecloths and garden dining in the back during the summer.
While the atmosphere and interior may invoke the Mediterranean,
the 19-25zł lunch menu (Mon-Sat 12:00 - 17:00) isn’t
above simple favourites like cheeseburgers, and Sunday’s
brunch (12:00-16:00) features American pancakes with bacon,
or BBQ ribs. The dinner menu reveals no lack of creative
muscle with dishes like ‘Rabbit leg caramelized in honey,
braised in red wine and plums’ at affordable prices, and the
wine list is longer than your arm. Aperitif is an all round delight.
QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (26-69zł). PTA6UXSW
Baroque D-6, ul. Plac Nowy 8, tel. (+48) 12 422 15 48,
www.baroque.com.pl. Known as one of Kraków’s best cocktail
bars, Baroque’s second location in Kazimierz moonlights as
more of a restaurant while the same mastery of mixing drinks is
still on display. In a great location right on Plac Nowy, the interior
of the new space suits the district better by dialing down the
posh elements and going modern casual with lots of sunlight
and a more natural colour palette. The menu leans towards the
Mediterranean while allowing space for local specialties, pizza,
pastas and some great morning breakfast options as well. The
hours listed are for the kitchen; the bar stays open until 01:00
weekdays and until 04:00 on weekends. Another location at ul.
Św. Jana 16 (C-2). QOpen 08:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 24:00.
(20-48zł). PAXSW
Copernicus C-5, ul. Kanonicza 16 (Copernicus Hotel),
tel. (+48) 12 424 34 21, www.hotel.com.pl. Inside one
of Kraków’s most exclusive hotels you’ll find one of its most
exclusive restaurants. The menu aims high, and gets results
with gourmet choices that change with the seasons in order
to incorporate fresh local produce as much as possible. As
the menu updates itself, the quality remains constant, and
here you’ll find one of the best wine lists you’ve laid eyes on.
Original frescoes still grace the elegant gothic interior where
the aristocratic cuisine has been enjoyed by Nobel prize winners
(Miłosz, Szymborska) and political dignitaries (Vaclav
Havel, Helmut Kohl). At Copernicus you get what you pay for,
making it easy to recommend for those on a royal budget.
QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (79-129zł). PTAIEGSW
Dynia Resto Bar A-2, ul. Krupnicza 20, tel. (+48) 12
430 08 38, www.dynia.krakow.pl. Ultra-stylish, with a
design that incorporates lots of shining leather, bare bricks
and circular patterns. But the best bit of all is the large seasonal
garden - an absolutely ace spot festooned with plant
life and girdled by an ancient red brick wall. The main menu
features solid breakfast options, spaghetti, soups, chicken
and pork cooked up in a variety of ways, as well as a range
of low-cal meals for those who’ve had enough of popping out
of their buttons. This being Poland, you can expect the staff
to look rather nice as well. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun
09:00 - 22:00. (14-49zł). TA6GSW
Europejska C-3, Rynek Główny 35, tel. (+48) 12 429
34 93, www.europejska.pl. Impressive from start to finish,
this legendary veteran cafe/restaurant exudes style, class
and professionalism. The secessionist interior of artistic
woodwork and green velvet booths under vaulted ceilings
is elaborately enhanced with phonographs, grandfather
clocks and other truly exquisite antiques, while English fox
hunting imagery lines the walls. Perfect any time of day from
their excellent English breakfast to international and Polish
mains like ‘baked salmon steak in saffron sauce’ followed by
to-die-for desserts, you can be assured of flawless service
and an elegant atmosphere at this historic market square
escape. QOpen 08:00 - 23:30. (23-67zł). PTAGSW
Kuchnia i Wino (Cuisine and Wine) D-6, ul. Józefa
13, tel. (+48) 12 430 67 10, www.kuchniaiwino.eu. This
local favourite offers a quiet, intimate setting for a romantic
dinner just off the bohemian debauchery of Kazimierz’s main
square from which you can try to pluck a date for one of the
best meals in the area, with the open fireplace the finishing
touch. Choose from pork tenderloin in Fourme d’Ambert or
truffle sauce, and a host of great seafood dishes delivered
fresh on Fridays. Also on offer - and recommended - is the
sirloin steak with Camembert sauce or garlic butter. QOpen
12:00 - 23:00, Mon, Tue, Wed 12:00 - 22:00. (25-65zł).
TA6IGSW
Magnes C-3, Pl. Mariacki 1, tel. (+48) 605 94 72 72,
www.magnes.krakow.pl. This small and simple, but stylish
upmarket bistro across from St. Mary’s Cathedral features a
black and white interior, chrome lampshades and interesting
local art on the walls. The prices are slightly precious for
small dishes such as salmon tartare and potato flan, but
the small outdoor garden beneath the bugler’s call is a treat
when it’s open. In addition to eats, Magnes is a nice, quiet,
central place to have a coffee and open your laptop. QOpen
08:00 - 22:00. (19-38zł). PTA6GSW
Pod Różą (Under the Rose) C-2, ul. Floriańska 14
(Pod Różą Hotel), tel. (+48) 12 424 33 81, www.lhr.
com.pl. Excellent Polish and European cuisine served under
a glass-covered atrium in the Pod Różą hotel. A piano sits
on a raised platform, and higher up there’s a balcony with
tables overlooking the main floor. The menu features a veritable
list of birds and forest animals, including a rather tasty
dead bambi. Prices are high for Krakow, but then so are the
standards. QOpen 18:30 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 23:00.
(69-89zł). PTJAUEGSW
Tipping Tribulations
Polish tipping etiquette can be a bit confusing for foreigners.
While in other countries it’s perfectly normal and even
courteous to say ‘thanks’ when the wait staff comes to
collect the bill, you’ll be startled to learn that in Poland uttering
the word ‘dziękuje’ (thank you), or even ‘thank you’
in English, is an indication that you don’t want any change
back. This cultural slip-up can get very embarrassing, not
to mention aggravating, if you’re later forced to track down
your server and shamefully ask for your change. In order to
avoid these situations, we strongly suggest that you only
say ‘thank you’ when the service of your waiter/waitress is
no longer needed and you are happy for them to keep all of
the change. When that’s not the case, the word you need
learn is ‘proszę’ (pronounced pro-sheh). Meaning ‘please’
in Polish, this is a vital social cue that translates to ‘yes, I
want all of my change, no matter how small it is.’
Despite the fact that the standards of service in Poland
have skyrocketed in the last decade, the average waiter/
waitress in this country still only makes a paltry 8-12zł/hr,
and a customary tip is still only 10% of the meal’s total
(though being a foreigner may make staff expectant of
a bit more generosity). Those numbers look pretty low to
us, so we strongly encourage you to reward good service
when you feel it’s deserved.
Finally, it is not common practice to add the tip to your
credit card payment because the wait staff are then
forced to pay tax on the gratuity; most likely you will not
even have an opportunity to leave a tip on your card. For
that reason, try to have some change handy so you
can still leave a cash tip, or ask your server for change
if you need to.
Kraków In Your Pocket krakow.inyourpocket.com
krakow.inyourpocket.com
February - March 2013

40 RESTAURANTS RESTAURANTS 41
A new magical place on the Kazimierz map
delicious breakfast, unique menu for lunch and supper, original
cuisine, delicious wines,the best cocktails, atmospheric interior
KRAKÓW, PLAC NOWY 8, TEL. 12 422 15 48, INFO@BAROQUE.COM.PL
Polish Friends of Beer Party
Sure, it started out as
a joke: In 1990 satirist
Janusz Rewinski formed
the Polish Friends of
Beer Party (Polska Partia
Przyjaciol Piwa
or PPPP in Polish) to
promote the country’s
second most beloved
polskapartianarodowa.org
beverage during the
new shift in government. The concept was popular
enough, in fact, to inspire a similar party in Russia as
well. And thanks to some disillusionment with Poland’s
democratic transition after the end of communism a
number of Poles voted for the prank party, and in the
1991 parliamentary elections 16 seats were nabbed
by the PPPP. What started out as a joke – their slogan
regarding the party running Poland: “it wouldn’t be
better but for sure it would be funnier” – evolved into
a semi-serious platform thanks to the newly acquired
seats. Of course, the divided cannot conquer, so when
the party split into Large Beer and Small Beer factions
it signalled the end of the jokey era, and eventually
the Large Beer faction transformed into the far less
humorous Polish Economic Program. Today little
remains of the group except for well-earned entries
in top ten lists of most ridiculous political parties and
Facebook groups celebrating the original idea: that
consuming quality beer is a symbol of freedom and a
better standard of living.
open from 8am
Ratuszowa C-3, Rynek Główny 1, tel. (+48) 12 421 13
26, www.ratuszowa.restfood.pl. In summer, this is one of
the most lively locations on the market square, with fantastic
live concerts every evening in the covered seating under the
Town Hall Tower. In winter, the weather’s lack of hospitality
forces only you into the unique historic interiors hung with oil
paintings and fitted with beautifully carved wood furnishings.
Today the restaurant somewhat awkwardly shares the cellars
with a theatre, and the fact that this once served as a prison
hardly seems like a surprise what with the heavy iron doors and
dim atmosphere. Upstairs or down, its a rare experience you
don’t get many places any time of year - a fact reflected by the
tourist prices on the familiar menu of Polish and Ukranian standards.
QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. (17-37zł). PTA6GSW
Restauracja Unicus C-2, ul. Św. Marka 20 (Unicus
Hotel), tel. (+48) 12 433 71 27, www.hotelunicus.pl. Awardwinning
Polish chef Rafał Targosz oversees an enticing range of
predominantly Polish dishes in this recommended, atmospheric
hotel-based cellar restaurant. Among the treats populating the
excellent value menu is the tried and true “Duck breast with
traditional Silesian dumplings and two types of coloured cabbage
with rose sauce.” For those who can’t afford the real thing, the
restaurant website boasts one of Mr. Targosz’s legendary recipes.
QOpen 14:00 - 22:00. (41-69zł). PTAGW
Resto Illuminati C-3, ul. Gołębia 2, tel. (+48) 12 430
73 73, www.restoilluminati.pl. Though the name comes off
as a tad trendy and eager to be elite, Illuminati’s connotations
of smart, secretive and ancient recipes are an apt portrayal of
this attractive restaurant hedging modern Warsaw style into a
medieval Kraków setting. Most enjoyable and undervalued is
the ability to dine in ancient vaulted brick surroundings without
being buried underground in a windowless crypt. Check the
wall-length blackboard for daily specials before considering
‘roast fillet of lamb, with date, spinach and pine nut stuffing,
wrapped in Serrano ham with lamb liver, ratatouille and mint
sauce.’ Oh yes. Also worth checking out for breakfast and their
daily lunch specials served 12:00 - 17:00. Reassuringly there’s
no need for blood rites to be a regular. QOpen 07:30 - 22:30.
(46-77zł). PTA6EGSW
Scandale Royal B-2, Pl. Szczepański 2, tel. (+48) 12
422 13 33, www.scandale.pl. Scandale Royal successfully
skirts the line between lounge, cafe and bistro by being one of
the most stylish places to be all day and night. In more shades
of violet than we knew possible, it nonetheless stays well-lit
and inviting thanks to wall-length windows and a massive
chandelier bisecting the two floors like a fragile fire-pole. On
the card you’ll find salads, pastas, and meat dishes to taste,
with proper breakfast in the mornings and an after 22:00 menu
(featuring tapas) late night, when everything inside from the
cushions to the clientele looks edible. QOpen 07:30 - 24:00,
Fri, Sat 07:30 - 02:00. (18-57zł). PTAUXSW
Studio Qulinarne E-7, ul. Gazowa 4, tel. (+48) 12 430
69 14, www.studioqulinarne.pl. Housed inside an old bus
hangar on the site of the City Engineering Museum, Studio
Qulinarne has taken this airy industrial interior of bricks and
timbers and turned it into one of Kraków’s most elegant dining
destinations. Potted plants and illuminated white drapes cleverly
hang between fine table settings with refreshingly mismatched
18th century chairs as a pianist plays in the main dining area.
The air of exclusivity is diffused by a childrens’ corner, walllength
windows opening onto the street in fair weather, and the
summer garden full of greenery and futons - one of the most
comfortable places for a cocktail in town. The menu ranges
from affordable pasta dishes to pricey exotic game, and we
can recommend not only the venison, but the entire experience.
QOpen 12:00 - 22:00. (23-80zł). TA6UEGSW
Szara C-3, Rynek Główny 6, tel. (+48) 12 421 66 69,
www.szara.pl. An important looking restaurant which
seems to draw most tourists at least once during their visit.
Vaulted ceilings, crisp linen and an atmosphere of complete
elegance make it a great venue for your special ‘last night
meal’, and the food rarely disappoints. Choose from dishes
like Planksteak with Bearnaise sauce in what has come to
be known as one of the cornerstones of Kraków’s culinary
scene. An excellent breakfast (8:00-12:00) destination as
well. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (41-74zł). PTAUGSW
Szara Kazimierz E-6, ul. Szeroka 39, tel. (+48) 12 429
12 19, www.szarakazimierz.pl. Opening after its sister
establishment on the Rynek, the second Szara achieved
‘Kraków legend’ status just as quickly. What makes it so special
is not the location on Szeroka, nor the swift and bubbly
staff, but the food: nowhere in the city can you eat so well for
so little. This is top cuisine - try the daily specials chalked up
on the blackboard - yet it comes in at bargain prices. Simple,
affordable and very cheerful. All of Kraków should be like
this. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00. (27-61zł). PTAGSW
The Olive A-5, ul. Powiśle 7 (Sheraton Kraków Hotel),
tel. (+48) 12 662 16 60, www.theolive.sheraton.pl. Top
class Mediterranean and Polish dishes served inside the impressive
environs of the Sheraton’s voluminous interior atrium.
The glass roof makes it possible to dine under the stars while
the foliage dotted around adds to the al fresco atmosphere.
The best ingredients money can buy are complemented by
graceful service and some superb live piano. Fine dining at its
best. Q Open 06:30 - 10:30, 12:00 - 16:00, 18:00 - 22:30;
Mon 06:30 - 10:30, Sat 07:00 - 11:00, 12:00 - 16:00, 18:00 -
22:30; Sun 07:00 - 11:00. (30-94zł). PTAUEGSW
Dynia Resto Bar
20 Krupnicza St., Krakow
Phone: +48 12 430 08 38
www.dynia.krakow.pl
Open: Mon-Fri 8.00-23.00
Sat-Sun 9.00-23.00
Casual dining at its best...
Polish Name Days (Imieniny)
In Poland, name days (imieniny) are widely celebrated
and have traditionally been given a greater importance
than birthday celebrations, particularly as one gets on
in years. Printed in every local calendar, these name
days represent the feast days of Catholic saints. Every
day of the year is assigned two saints – one male, one
female – and chances are if you share a name with a saint
(as almost all Poles do), you too have a name day. Some
names are even repeated more than once in a calendar
year, in which case you celebrate the first of your name
days to fall after your birthday.
Name Day celebrations in Poland are social events,
traditionally involving the gathering of friends and family
at the celebrant’s home or in the bar of their choice.
Differing slightly from western birthday celebrations in
which the celebrant is often seen as a ‘guest of honour’
and might expect to be bought drinks all night, in name
day gatherings the celebrant traditionally plays the role of
host, buying drinks for friends and ensuring that guests
are taken care of. In return, guests should bring small gifts
(typically chocolate, flowers or vodka) as you would on
someone’s birthday. The Polish birthday song ‘Sto Lat’ (A
Hundred Years) is sung, and its mindless simplicity might
be tempting for foreigners to criticise until they reflect on
just how dreadful the English happy birthday song actually
is. Name Days are so important to Polish culture that in
Kraków, they are prominently displayed in all of the city’s
trams, thereby ensuring that you know who you should be
buying flowers for that day; information that you’ll often find
less readily available on these same trams is the name of
the line or the destination of its next stop.
Kraków In Your Pocket krakow.inyourpocket.com
krakow.inyourpocket.com
February - March 2013

42 RESTAURANTS RESTAURANTS 43
The Piano Rouge C-3, Rynek Główny 46, tel. (+48)
12 431 03 33, www.thepianorouge.com. A sensory
delight with crimson flourishes, feathery boas and gilt
picture frames providing an air of Parisian decadence.
A private members area and a pair of black-suited door
police add an air of exclusivity while the live jazz concerts
performed every evening are worth the visit alone. The
high-end, high-quality European dishes are an added
bonus, and brought to you by a busy team of beautiful
waitresses dressed in evening wear. QOpen 10:00 -
24:00. (25-60zł). PAEGS
NEW
Tradycyja C-3, Rynek Główny 15, tel. (+48) 12 424 96
16, www.tradycyja.pl. The main ‘tradycja’ (tradition) of this
historic market square locale seems to be re-branding itself
every year, but that hardly dents the success of this tourist
magnet under the same management as the legendary
Wierzynek restaurant. Though somewhat haunted by the
spectres of past incarnations (a pizza oven in the corner
goes largely unused), there’s no need to mess with what is
still a marvellous dining space blending old Polish aristocracy
with Roman antiquity, including a beautifully painted timber
ceiling and an outrageously gaudy chandelier (which we love
for just that reason). Like the interior, the simple menu of Polish
and Italian dishes seems to have collected the highlights
of previous kitchens, ranging from grilled polenta with nuts
and gorgonzola sauce to pork tenderloin with plum-vodka
sauce. The results cover for the sometimes uneven service,
and the prices are well within reason. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00.
(17-55zł). TAUEGSW
Trufla C-2, ul. Św. Tomasza 2, tel. (+48) 12 422 16
41. The Kraków dining scene continues to improve and
this cosy place on Pl. Szczepański sets itself apart by offering
great food at the right price. A simple, predominantly
white decor with wooden furniture allows you to relax
while interpreting the stylistically pleasing yet difficult
to decipher handwritten cursive menu of classic Italian
dishes. The open kitchen lets you in on the ‘creative’
cooking process and the year-round garden - with its
small Japanese-style garden - is one of the most gorgeous
you’ll find around. With limited tables inside and out, plus
Trufla’s loyal band of followers, reservations might be wise.
QOpen 09:00 - 22:30, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 22:30. (16-40zł).
A6GBSW
Trzy Rybki C-2, ul. Szczepańska 5 (Stary Hotel), tel.
(+48) 12 384 08 06, www.lhr.com.pl. Hotel Stary won
an interior design award in 2007 and the interiors of its ace
restaurant are no less awe-inspiring, balancing the modern
with finely preserved details of this ancient building. Serving
fine Modern European cuisine with a Polish twist, the menu
changes like the seasons - or with them, rather, meaning a
steady effort from the kitchen to use the freshest ingredients.
Favoured by high-flyers and local business honchos who
have been regulars for years, this is a Kraków gem. QOpen
12:00 - 23:00. (75-95zł). PTA6UGSW
U Ziyada ul. Jodłowa 13 (Przegorzały Castle, Zwierzyniec),
tel. (+48) 12 429 71 05, www.uziyada.pl. Pretty
much the most romantic restaurant in Kraków, if you’ve got
a date, blindfold them, put them in a cab and bring them
here. Set inside a magnificent castle perched atop a jag of
limestone poking out of Wolski Forest, the enormous semicircular
terrace offers outstanding panoramic views of the
Wisła River and Tatra Mountains in the distance, and with
these prices you’re basically getting them for free. The menu
is a mix of international dishes, plus dishes from traditional
Polish and Kurdish cooking, and the environment is literally
fit for royalty. Worth the trip. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00. (32-65zł).
TAGSW
Vanilla Sky H-4, ul. Flisacka 3 (Hotel Art Niebieski
& SPA), tel. (+48) 12 297 40 05, www.vanilla-sky.
pl. The flagship restaurant of the 5-blinger Art Hotel Niebieski,
Vanilla Sky takes a healthy approach as one of the
city’s only restaurants to get all of their ingredients from
certified organic sources, and the chef has constructed
a tantalising menu of Italian and Polish influenced fusion
dishes that will make you want to happily commit to the
eco-craze. Choose between options like ‘courgette cream
soup with chanterelle ravioli’ or ‘Argentinian steak served
with Paris baguette and Provencal vegetables’. Set in
the centre of a spacious dining room on the hotel’s third
floor, the well-dressed tables circle a gorgeous Yamaha
Grand Touch piano on which live concerts are given by a
local maestro Thursday to Saturday from 12:00-22:30
and Sunday from 14:00-16:00. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00.
(39-69zł). PTAUEGSW
Kraków In Your Pocket krakow.inyourpocket.com
krakow.inyourpocket.com
February - March 2013
Israeli
NEW
Hamsa E-6, ul. Szeroka 2, tel. (+48) 515 15 01 45,
www.hamsa.pl. Located in a district whose dining establishments
still treat Jewishness as a faded sepia part of the
past (see the place next door if you need an example), finally
here comes a restaurant free of pre-war nostalgic décor and
wooden roof fiddlers, where ‘Jewish cuisine’ doesn’t mean
traditional East European fare. Making a bold impression
simply by being bright, modern and free of clutter, Hamsa
offers a range of authentic Middle Eastern specialties from
the kitchens of Israel, Palestine (everyone’s friends over good
food), Syria and Saudi Arabia in a casual environment. The
mezze sets are perfect for sharing, and not only give you a
chance to sample delicious starters like the several types
of hummus, babaganoush, falafel, labnah and muhammarah
(our recommended choice), but are also beautifully presented
in hand-painted dish ware. Don’t skip dessert or miss the list
of Israeli wines either. Fairly-priced and generally a breath
of fresh air on what was becoming a stuffy street, Hamsa is
a delight. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. (22-39zł). TAGSW
Italian
Al Dente E-6, ul. Kupa 12, tel. (+48) 12 430 04 18. A light
and airy room with a cream and modern look. This is where the
local sophisticates have been seen heading, drawn no doubt by
Sardinian cuisine prepared by the imported chef. Authenticity is
topped off by the ingredients, most of which come shipped direct
from Italy. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (22-55zł). PTAUGSW
Amarone C-2, ul. Floriańska 14 (Pod Różą Hotel), tel. (+48)
12 424 33 81, www.lhr.com.pl. Upmarket Italian food served in
an elegant setting to a discerning audience - all of whom appear to
know exactly what they are ordering and how it should be prepared.
The pressure is on, but the Amarone team comes through every
time and the clients keep coming back. Enjoy fresh bread (baked
daily), homemade pasta and authentic ingredients straight from
Italy in an exclusive atmosphere made Mediterranean via plenty
of natural light and potted plants. Weekdays 12:00 - 16:00 offer
a fantastic five-course tasting menu for only 50zł. QOpen 12:00 -
23:00. (39-65zł). PTJAUEGSW
Aqua e Vino B-3, ul. Wiślna 5/10, tel. (+48) 12 421 25 67,
www.aquaevino.pl. Still as exciting as the day it opened. Italian
owned, this chic cellar space comes decorated in a minimalist
style with cream and black colour combinations, and an atmosphere
redolent of downtown Milan. Half restaurant, half lounge
bar, the beautifully presented dishes come cooked up by house
chef Francesco. Earning rave reviews from all corners, this merits
a place on any ‘must visit’ list you may be keeping. Stop in during
lunch (Mon-Fri 12:00-16:30) to get an appetiser, main and drink
for only 35zł. QOpen 12:00 - 22:45. (24-78zł). PTAGSW

44 RESTAURANTS
Quick Eats
For more fast dining options, get away from the fast food
franchises and get adventurous by visiting a milk bar or
Zakąski Przekąski (see our boxes on each).
Chimera Salad Bar B-3, ul. Św. Anny 3, tel. (+48)
12 292 12 12, www.chimera.com.pl. This beautiful
courtyard buffet has been sealed off from the elements
and now overflows with ambience year round. Full of potted
plants, climbing ivy, natural sunlight and surrealistic
murals, Chimera’s Salad Bar may be the most pleasant
budget dining environment in town; unfortunately it tends
to overshadow the food a bit. Choose a plate for four or
six portions, say ‘proszę’ and point at your pick of the
salads, quiche, stuffed peppers and more. It’s not the
best veggie fare in town, but it’s fast, easy, cheap and
a great place to relax. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. (13-24zł).
TA6GSW
COCA E-6, ul. Kupa 3, tel. (+48) 791 20 03 03. Little
more than a sidewalk stand one street removed from Plac
Nowy - Kraków’s fast food focal point - this small eatery
serves fantastic freshly made Sicilian food. The ‘arancino’
- breaded rice balls filled with ragu (recommended) or
spinach (7zł) are delicious and duly popular. Or try the
stuffed Sicilian pancakes, salads or home-made pastas
topped with different sauces every day. As authentic
as it gets, the endearing owner speaks Italian only and
frequently hands out freebies. The menu is flexible day
to day, but Thursdays and Sundays are reserved for
arancino and Wednesdays for cannoli. Though open late,
get there early or be out of luck. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00,
Fri, Sat 11:00 - 03:00, Sun 11:00 - 22:00. Closed Mon.
(7-20zł). 6VGS
Portobello B-3, ul. Szewska 27, tel. (+48) 12 422
04 16. What looks like yet another dodgy destination
for drunk food on ul. Szewska is actually something quite
exceptional. This small Italian bistro offers a wide range
of authentic eats made fresh on-site, from on-the-go
bagel sandwiches, wraps, pizza by the slice, muffins
and croissants to stay awhile mains like grilled steaks
and fresh-made pastas (try their excellent Bolognese
sauce). Delicious Italian coffee and desserts, plus a
large beer selection, means there’s never an occasion
not to drop in. That they manage to cram it all into
such a small space and still have room for exactly half
of a Fiat 500 is a bit of a marvel. Also at ul. Estery 12
(D-6). QOpen 08:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 01:00.
(15-24zł). AUGSW
U Stasi D-3, ul. Mikołajska 16, tel. (+48) 12 421
50 84. If you’re looking for a truly authentic local dining
experience, you simply can’t do better than U Stasi. This
tiny, inconspicuous cafeteria tucked in a courtyard (past
the pizza place) serves simple home-cooked Polish
food at shockingly cheap prices. Being family-owned
(80 years and counting) with ‘table service’ and English
menus, eliminates it from contention as a true ‘milk bar,’
but those are about the only differences. Impossible
for groups, if you can find a place to sit at all, you’ll be
doing it in silence at a table of students, pensioners,
professors, and homeless people. The plum pierogi
are delicious and the experience is simply priceless.
Arrive before 14:00 to avoid eating the last thing left
on the menu. Q Open 12:30 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
(9-18zł). PGS
Bar Italiano C-3, ul. Floriańska 6, tel. (+48) 666 73
95 29, www.baritaliano.pl. With all the exclusive Italian
eateries choking the market (seriously, enough already), Bar
Italiano wisely keeps prices and expectations in check, putting
all of their pride and effort into their personable service
and great pizza. Made with fresh, delicious ingredients, if
traditional Italian thin crust isn’t your style (yankee), you can
double your crust quotient for an extra złoty. Our calzone
was larger than the infant at the neighbouring table, and the
coffee and desserts are can’t miss as well. A great place
to escape from the crowds of Kraków’s tourist high street.
QOpen 12:00 - 22:00, Sun 12:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon.
(19-35zł). PAUGS
Corleone C-4, ul. Poselska 19, tel. (+48) 12 429 51
26, www.corleone.krakow.pl. Yellowing vaulted walls
cluttered with pictures and wine bottles cast a warm glow
on this effort, making it a welcome retreat from the hustle
and bustle of the nearby tourist trail. The menu waltzes
through the best of Italian cooking, with the lamb cutlets
winning particular praise from this reviewer. Italian cuisine
has exported effortlessly to Kraków, and this is one of the
highlights. Look for the two wise guys standing beside the
door. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (21-47zł). TAGBSW
Da Pietro C-3, Rynek Główny 17, tel. (+48) 12 422
32 79, www.dapietro.pl. Da Pietro laughs in the face of
every exclusive Italian restaurant to open in the Old Town in
the last few years. This veteran outfit (Kraków’s first Italian
restaurant) has ruled the Rynek for the last 20 years and continues
to outclass the competition with its climate, quality and
even quantity. Portions are enormous, with signature dishes
like ‘Ossobuco alla Milanese’ coming heaped with veal and
vegetables on saffron rice, accompanied by a tray of bread
and olive oil. As popular as the day it opened, a network of
large candlelit cellars decorated with black and white pictures
of Rome’s Colosseum await you inside (open from 12:30), or
enjoy the Rynek seating (open from 10:30) in warm weather.
QOpen 12:30 - 23:45. (23-79zł). PTA6GSW
Fabryka Pizzy (Pizza Factory) E-6, ul. Józefa 34,
tel. (+48) 12 433 80 80, www.fabrykapizzy.pl. Often
rated as Kraków’s best pizza, Fabryka has expanded to a
commanding four locations throughout the city since starting
as a project of students at the Economic University some
years ago. The secret isn’t the pleasant wooden and brick
interiors or the slightly precious prices; clearly it’s in the
ingredients and the list of premium toppings unheard of
in other pizza joints, including feta, camembert, roquefort,
capers, mussels, crabmeat, beans and Tabasco (!!!) to
name a few. The cherry on this sundae, however, is the arrival
of extra marinara sauce with the pie - a mind-blowing
event for anyone now grown accustomed to the unilateral
substitution of cheap, translucent ketchup for red sauce. If
that’s not amore, well, we don’t know what is... Also in the
centre at (C-2) ul. Sławkowska 3 and (J-2) ul. Lubomirskiego
41. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00. (15-30zł).
PTAGSW
Il Calzone D-4, ul. Starowiślna 15a, tel. (+48) 12 429
51 41, www.ilcalzone.pl. Tucked behind the Pugetów
Palace, this veteran trattoria continues to impart the cornerstones
of Italian cooking - from pizza and calzones to
gnocchi and fresh tortiglioni - now extending themselves to
new favourites like the rosemary lamb. Combining sophisticated
service with a casual atmosphere, dine in an interior
of colourful photos of Italy, stout wooden tables and a timber
ceiling, or enjoy the terrace seating in short-sleeve weather.
Reliable and recommended. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat
12:00 - 23:00. (15-46zł). PTAUGBSW
Kraków In Your Pocket krakow.inyourpocket.com

46 RESTAURANTS RESTAURANTS 47
Il Vizio E-6, ul. Szeroka 31, tel. (+48) 698 47 85 00. This
fine Italian restaurant brings even more class to ul. Szeroka
with its fresh, slow food fusion cuisine, personable service and
artistic presentation. While at once seemingly very Cracovian
thanks to familiar vaulted brick cellars, the friendly Sardinian
owner has his stamp all over Il Vizio as he personally sees
to it that every customer is not only greeted but engaged
in conversation, that no two dishes come out of the kitchen
the same way, and that the concise menu changes weekly
to warrant regular visits. If not for the inventive Italian fusion
dishes, the wine and dessert lists would be a draw on their
own. Modern dining at its most accommodating and indulgent.
QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (30-80zł). PTA6EGSW
La Campana Trattoria C-4, ul. Kanonicza 7, tel.
(+48) 12 430 22 32, www.lacampana.pl. Planted on
picturesque Kanonicza Street, La Campana Trattoria is a
completely different restaurant in summertime when it’s
worth visiting just to relax in the gorgeous ivy-green garden
and cobbled patio; full of sunlight and singing birds, it may be
the best dining environment in Kraków. In winter, retreat to
the romantic cellars and dream of better weather. From the
same tried and true team behind Miód Malina and Wesele
- two of our favourites (and the Michelin Guide agrees) - the
pastas and risottos are as good as you’d expect. QOpen
12:00 - 23:00. (16-52zł). TAEGSW
Leonardo D-3, ul. Szpitalna 20-22, tel. (+48) 12 432
22 55, www.leonardo.com.pl. An elegant, spiral staircase
descends past a glass waterfall to reveal a series of dining
rooms - one filled with Da Vinci’s scientific sketches, another
like a provincial kitchen crammed with pickle jars and hams
hanging from the ceiling. Country furniture and knickknacks
set the mood as the stellar Italian dishes are being prepared.
Using hand-picked ingredients the kitchen staff create some
of the best meals in the region, including a superb deer with
mushroom ravioli and red wine sauce. Serving fresh fish on
Thursday and Friday and a well-priced lunch menu (12-18zł)
between 12:00 and 17:00 this serves as a highly romantic
spot for couples on a weekend break, while a private, cottage-style
room may be reserved by larger groups. QOpen
12:00 - 23:00. (21-85zł). PTAUGSW
Mamma Mia B-2, ul. Karmelicka 14, tel. (+48) 12 430
04 92, www.mammamia.net.pl. Find some of Kraków’s
best pizza dispatched from a traditional wood-fired oven
and the choice of numerous other Italian standards prove
Mamma Mia is more than a one trick pony. The interior -
clever lighting and exposed bricks - makes a cool backdrop
for casual dining, and the army of regulars is testament
to Mamma Mia’s growing reputation, even luring them in
for breakfast (served 07:45-12:00, Sat 08:00-12:00, Sun
09:00-12:00) with fresh panzerotti, eggs, muffins and more.
QOpen 07:45 - 23:00, Sat 08:00 - 23:00, Sun 09:00 - 23:00.
(14-43zł). PTAUGS
Milano Ristorante C-3, Rynek Główny 42/ul. Św.
Jana 1 (The Bonerowski Palace), tel. (+48) 12 374 13
00, www.milanokrakow.pl. Housed in perhaps the most
magnificent building on the market square, just a stone’s
throw from the Cloth Hall, Milano is a classy and smart dining
option. A small collection of intimate rooms decorated with all
manner of oddities including a rocking horse provide ample
opportunity to tuck into a fine range of Italian and international
dishes. The clientele is mixed albeit mostly well-heeled,
whilst the almost inaudible music comes as an extremely
pleasant surprise in what’s becoming an increasingly noisy
city. All in all a great choice for pushing the culinary boat
out when you’re in town. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (32-119zł).
PTA6UEGSW
Trattoria Pistola D-6, ul. Bożego Ciała 7, tel. (+48)
12 341 58 82, www.trattoriapistola.pl. Located on what
has become one of Kazimierz’s busiest blocks, this building’s
renovation has played its role in the renaissance and is now
home to Pistola - a casual trattoria with a surprisingly good
menu of homemade pastas, traditional thin-crust pizzas,
soups, salads and delicious desserts, plus special daily offers
and seasonal additions and made from fresh ingredients.
The interior features iconic red-chequered tablecloths, a
huge brick oven, fantastic year-round heated garden full of
happy plants, and humorous photos which suggest that if
you interrupt an Italian while he’s feeding himself, he’ll feed
you to the fishes (most likely the next time you sit down for
a meal). So mind your manners or make your peace, but if
you’re having a ‘final meal’ this is a worthy place to do it.
QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (20-50zł). PTAUGBW
Trattoria Prima C-3, ul. Floriańska 11, tel. (+48)
790 65 58 58. Dine among tourists lured off Kraków’s
high street inside this high-quality and perfectly pleasant, if
a bit awkward Italian restaurant. The layout is odd at best,
with the front room primarily occupied by an open kitchen
where cooks have their attention divided by stay-in orders
and the to-go window offering authentic 12,50zł ciabattas
as a smart alternative to the kebabs elsewhere. A narrow
corridor leads you to the quiet courtyard, but head upstairs
to the truly elegant dining room where the history of the
building is most felt. Though Prima’s popularity can slow the
service and preparation time, the excellent food - made from
fresh ingredients personally driven from Italy by the staff - is
absolutely worth waiting for. QOpen 12:00 - 02:00. (14-62zł).
AUEBXSW
Trzy Papryczki C-4, ul. Poselska 17, tel. (+48) 12
292 55 32, www.trzypapryczki.krakow.pl. This delicious
venture is certainly in the running for Kraków’s best pizza, and
most locals have already made up their minds that it is. Do
your dining in their knockout back garden during the warmer
months, or take to the dusky dining room complete with
log fire and wall frescoes. The pizza here can get seriously
experimental with choices including roast turkey, almonds
and avocado, and the chef also extends his repertoire to
cover numerous Italian dishes. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (17-
29zł). TAGSW
Japanese
Genji Premium Sushi D-5, ul. Dietla 55/1, tel. (+48)
12 429 59 59, www.genji.pl. While virtually unheard of in
Kraków a few years ago, Genji is the latest in a line of raw fish
flayers to come to town, and the high quality food, prepared
by Japanese sushi chefs, makes an instant argument for
itself as the cream of the local crop. An upstairs sushi bar
leads to an intimate brick downstairs dining area where each
table occupies its own room. Taking itself a bit too seriously
to explain some of the kitschy decor touches, the extensive
menu of Korean and Japanese dishes and expensive sushi
sets also includes condescending directions on how to
eat your food. However all is forgiven when it arrives, with
eyebrow-raising prices justified by the spot-on results. Premium
indeed. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:00,
Sun 12:00 - 21:00. (20-60zł). TAVGSW
Kaze I-2, ul. Batorego 1, tel. (+48) 12 422 12
12. With the glut of Japanese restaurants in Kraków,
finally here’s a place that takes a different approach.
Specialising in Japanese hospitality and home-cooking,
sushi is sidelined with merely a mention on Kaze’s
large menu that offers various meal sets consisting of
delicious miso soup, a main, rice and pickled cabbage.
Kraków In Your Pocket krakow.inyourpocket.com
krakow.inyourpocket.com
February - March 2013

48 RESTAURANTS RESTAURANTS 49
Breakfast
A typical breakfast in Poland usually consists of a cigarette
and maybe a coffee or juice. Unlike some western
countries where the direction of one’s day seems to
superstitiously depend on the ability to eat a good breakfast,
here in PL the notion of ‘starting the day right’ with
a fortifying meal just hasn’t caught on. In fact ask five
Polish working girls what they’ve had to eat that day come
13:00, and you can bet at least three of them haven’t
had more than a cup of yogurt, claiming they’re ‘just not
hungry in the mornings.’ Mm-hmm... Hard-pressed as
you may be to find a proper breakfast in this town, fear
not - they do exist and we’ve provided the details of the
best below. Smacznego, champ.
Europejska C-3, Rynek Główny 35, tel. (+48) 12
429 34 93, www.europejska.pl. The market square
location and comfortable, yet classy atmosphere of
the interior make Europejska a favourite of tourists and
elder ex-pats. The extensive breakfast menu satisfies
a variety of tastes with its set English, Polish and Vienna
breakfast platters (29-39zł), with plenty of omlettes to
choose from. If you’re not ready to take on a meal at
this hour, the selection of coffee drinks and tortes will
sweeten anyone up. Q Breakfast served 08:00 - 12:30.
PTAGSW
Le Scandale D-6, Pl. Nowy 9, tel. (+48) 12 430
68 55, www.lescandale.pl. One of the best early
menus available in Kazimierz, Scandale offers bagels
with genuine Philadelphia cream cheese, proper English
and American breakfast sets and a variety of large,
fluffy omelettes - all at bargain prices. Try their sister
site - Scandale Royal (Pl. Szczepański 2, B-2) - to happily
go beyond bread, spreads and meat for breakfast in the
Old Town. Q Breakfast served 08:00 - 13:00. (9-19zł).
PTAUBXSW
Manzana D-6, ul. Miodowa 11, tel. (+48) 12 422
22 77, www.manzana.com.pl. Arguably the best weekend
brunch in town. With outstanding ala carte options
like breakfast burritos, huevos rancheros, pancakes with
maple syrup and bacon, and English or American style
fry-ups, you may not even be tempted by the breakfast
buffet featuring an assortment of meat and cheeses,
fruit and veggie salads, breads, beverages, musli and
more. Q Breakfast served 07:30 - 10:00; Sat, Sun
07:30 - 16:00. (14-29zł). PTA6GSW
NEW
Met Cafe & Brasserie C-3, ul. Sławkowska 3, tel.
(+48) 12 421 98 03. Formerly known as ‘Metropolitan’
- the best place for breakfast in town - this cosmopolitan
venue’s reinvention simplifies its offer while focuses on
its strengths. The breakfast card is short but sweet with
bagels, English breakfast (32zł), fluffy American pancakes
(with real maple syrup, no less), and even ‘steak ‘n eggs’
with hashbrowns. Served until 15:00, there’s plenty of time
to sleep in and still smell the bacon. Q Breakfast served
07:00 - 15:00. (14-49zł). PTAGSW
Moment Resto E-6, ul. Estery 22, tel. (+48) 668
03 40 00, www.momentcafe.pl. If you’re the breakfast
for dinner type, head to Moment where it’s served
until 20:00. Their large breakfast sets (Classic, English,
Polish, French, Vegetarian, Fitness) are one of the best
bargains in town at 11-19zł, including free refills of coffee
or tea. Q Breakfast served 09:00 - 20:00, Fri, Sat, Sun
09:00 - 16:00. (11-19zł). PTAGSW
The helpful staff are good for a suggestion and as a result
our ‘syogayaki’ was spot-on. Located somewhat obscurely
in a brick cellar, Kaze makes great use of white curtains
for privacy and bean bags for comfort, creating a relaxing
atmosphere without any of the artifice so often found
in sushi joints. Already proving popular with the locals,
we weren’t the only diners to leave praising the staff
and vowing to return. QOpen 13:00 - 22:00. (22-55zł).
A6VGSW
Koji C-4, ul. Poselska 18/1, tel. (+48) 12 422 52
66, www.kojisushi.pl. The art of Japanese cuisine is
on display in Koji where the skilled chefs work quickly
to create an extensive range of soups, sashimi, sushi
sets, hot mains and more. The menu helps novices decode
the different styles with helpful photos, and goes
beyond traditional expectations with ‘fusion sushi’ sets
that include ingredients you wouldn’t anticipate like sundried
tomatoes, olive tapenade and even guacamole.
Our inari was delicious and the ‘Mint Carolina’ uramaki
was delightfully refreshing. For dessert there’s green
tea flavoured ice cream and creme brulee, as well as
tea, sake, Japanese beer and whisky to wash it down.
Watch the chefs at work from the bar inside the small
modern interior or relax in the seasonal back garden.
Recommended. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat, Sun
12:00 - 23:00. (39-100zł). AGSW
Musso Sushi A-4, ul. Zwierzyniecka 23, tel. (+48)
500 11 79 15, www.mussosushi.pl. The 4-year progression
of an Eastern Europe tourist market seems to go
something like this: Year one the city receives the moniker
‘The New Prague,’ year two a jillion hostels open, year three
a jillion clubs open, and year four - where Kraków currently
finds itself - it’s all sushi restaurants. Musso sushi seems
to benefit from those who came before by not having to try
ristorante pizzeria caffè
so hard. The menu is more simple and straight-forward and
here the chefs (shaved-head Polish men that they are) are
actually brave enough to prepare your food right in front of you
on the other side of the long dark wooden bar which can seat
about 30 people on its three sides. They do a commendable
job and we actually find eating here to be more of a joy than
an exercise in pretension. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (20-100zł).
PTAVGSW
Sushisquare C-3, Rynek Główny 15, tel. (+48) 12
424 96 36, www.sushisquare.pl. A little slice of Tokyo,
Sushisquare is a microcosm of Japan’s fondness for
seafood, sake and compact spaces. The mirrored walls
help to make it feel roomier and the bright red and white
colouring gives the place good energy. The menu covers
the most popular Japanese dishes and gives you plenty
of choices for your preferred toppings and sauces. The
chopsticks are fun, but if you’re in a hurry to get out and
see more of Kraków, grab a fork. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00.
(32-55zł). TAGSW
Zen Restaurant & Sushi Bar D-3, ul. Św. Tomasza
29, tel. (+48) 12 426 55 55, www.zensushi.pl. The sushi
boom that seems to have consumed Warsaw is in full stride
here in Kraków as well. Zen outdoes much of the competition
by hitting the authentic Japanese interior dead on with a first
floor sushi canal arrangement where customers can snare
different servings as they float by; dishes are colour-coded
by cost so you can keep vague tabs on your inflating tab. On
the more formal second floor, dine ala carte on traditional
floor mats. The menu makes an ironic effort not to pander to
purists, but rather create an amalgam of European and Asian
ingredients and flavours with dishes like duck marinated in
orange and cinnamon served with teriyaki sauce. Stop in
weekdays 12:00 - 17:00 for their 69zł all you can eat lunch.
QOpen 12:00 - 23:45. (30-300zł). PTA6VGSW
Kraków, ul. Starowiślna 15A
Pałac Pugetów
tel: 12 429 51 41
www.ilcalzone.pl
www.facebook.com/ilcalzone
e-mail: ilcalzone@ilcalzone.pl
HOURS OF OPERATION:
SUNDAY-THURSDAY
12 p.m.-10 p.m.
FRIDAY-SATURDAY
12 p.m.-12 a.m.
Kraków In Your Pocket krakow.inyourpocket.com
krakow.inyourpocket.com
February - March 2013

50 RESTAURANTS RESTAURANTS 51
“Amazing place...
excellent pastas, great
service, just delicious!!!”
krakow.inyourpocket.com
Jewish
Alef C-6, ul. Św. Agnieszki 5 (Alef Hotel), tel. (+48) 12
424 31 31, www.alef.pl. The Alef restaurant have shifted
from their traditional Kazimierz base, opening instead on the
ground floor of their second venture on ul. Św. Agnieszki - not
necessarily a bad thing considering the knackered look the
old venue was starting to assume. This one is less claustrophobic
- a greenish dining room decorated with the requisite
gramophones, heirlooms and wood carving. The food is
standard, nothing better than anything else you’d find in
Kraków. QOpen 13:00 - 19:00. (18-49zł). TA6GSW
Ariel E-6, ul. Szeroka 17-18, tel. (+48) 12 421 79 20,
www.ariel-krakow.pl. You’ll hear mixed reports emanating
from Ariel, and while our turkey steak was little better than
disappointing we’ve met more than a number of people extolling
the virtues of Ariel’s varied Jewish cuisine. The setting is
typical of the district, with antiques and heirlooms alluding to
the Kazimierz of yesteryear, and a set of rooms decorated
in a charmingly cluttered style. The live music is a popular
draw, though you may appreciate it less when you learn you
are being charged to listen to it. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. (19-
78zł). PTA6IEXSW
Dawno Temu Na Kazimierzu (Long Ago in Kazimierz)
E-6, ul. Szeroka 1, tel. (+48) 12 421 21 17, www.
dawnotemu.nakazimierzu.pl. From the outside this venue is
disguised to look like a row of early 20th century trade shops
and is decorated with awnings relating to the area’s Jewish
heritage. Things are no less colourful on the inside with mannequins,
sewing machines and carpenters’ work surfaces
adorning the interiors. A great attempt at capturing the old
Kazimierz spirit, and a must visit for those tracing the district’s
past. QOpen 10:00 - 22:30. (21-49zł). A6EGS
Kraków
ul. Kanonicza 7
tel. +48 12 430 22 32
www.lacampana.pl
Klezmer Hois E-6, ul. Szeroka 6, tel. (+48) 12 411
12 45, www.klezmer.pl. Late 19th century décor and a
jumble of rugs and paintings, the interior of Klezmer Hois
follows the Kazimierz code for interior design but it’s the
strong menu that keeps the staff busy and the restaurant
packed. We recommend the chicken in honey and ginger.
Each night stirring music recitals keep the crowds amused
and the wine flowing. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00. Note that
opening hours may be subject to change in March. (19-59zł).
TA6UEGSW
Latin American
Diego & Bohumil C-5, ul. Św. Sebastiana 6, tel. (+48)
12 426 01 01. Two enterprising friends have consummated
the strange marriage of their strikingly different national
cuisines in the form of Diego i Bohumil - Kraków’s unique
Argentinean-Czech restaurant. The menu is an even split
of dishes from the two countries and is available in English,
making it all the easier to evaluate ordering Argentinean
highlights (like empanadas) other than the steak - still a
reliably fantastic value at 45zł. Located on a quiet street
midway between the Old Town and Kazimierz, enjoy the range
of Argentinean wines in the simple interior, where images of
gauchos and tangoing couples adorn the walls alongside
characters from Czech folklore. Great food and great prices
have made DiB a favourite. QOpen 16:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat,
Sun 11:00 - 23:00. (16-65zł). TIGSW
Manzana D-6, ul. Miodowa 11, tel. (+48) 12 422 22
77, www.manzana.com.pl. From the same owner of the
esteemed (and thoroughly expat-approved) Metropolitan,
we personally prefer Manzana - its Latin sister in Kazimierz.
Manzana’s ‘New Latin’ concept cuisine consists of meat
and fish dishes alongside reinvented classics (the massive
burritos can be prepared a number of ways) served in a
chic interior of dark, glossy colours, an open kitchen and
low-level Latin music. Though the prices aim a bit high, the
service and atmosphere are comfortably relaxed, making
Manzana the kind of place you’d want to frequent often.
The daily specials encourage you to do just that and the
weekend brunch (served all day) is legendary. Q Open 07:30
- 11:30, 16:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 07:30 - 23:00. (20-50zł).
PTA6GSW
Pimiento E-6, ul. Józefa 26, tel. (+48) 12 421 25
02, www.pimiento.pl. Behind the gloss and sheen of
Pimiento, this place is about meat and little more; big
unapologetic hunks of it. Boasting of the best steaks in
town, Pimiento gets all their meat straight from Argentina,
so if you’ve had one too many Polish cutlets and want a
proper steak, head here. Prices appear steep until you
remember how much a good steak costs wherever you last
had one, and a selection of South American wines wash it
down. A second location in the Old Town at ul. Stolarska
13 (C-3, same hours). QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (40-200zł).
PTAUGSW
Mediterranean
Papryczki 5 D-3, ul. Mikołajska 5, tel. (+48) 12 422
04 45. One of the best trends in Kraków, of late, is what’s
happening just off the main square. Only a minute’s walk
from the Rynek, prices drop a bit and the service goes up.
Papryczki 5 is part Italian, part Mediterranean restaurant,
part pizza joint, but utterly romantic. Pizzas are oven baked
with paper-thin crust and served piping hot. Best of all, your
wallet will think you were miles from the centre. QOpen
11:00 - 23:00. (15-53zł). PTAUGSW
Portofino E-6, ul. Wąska 2, tel. (+48) 12 431 05
37, www.portofino.pl. Italian food at a decent price
served on a quiet, atmospheric side street across from
Kazimierz’s High Synagogue. With no pizzas clogging up
the menu you can expect good pasta and some wonderful
tossed salads, however the highlight of our last visit was
the paella: certainly the best in Kraków, if it even has any
competition. Sit on the terrace if you can; inside things get
a bit more formal. Drop by between 12:00 and 16:00 for a
special lunch menu featuring most of the menu’s entrees
plus a soup starter for only 20zł. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00.
(17-59zł). TA6IGSW
Warsztat (The Workshop) E-6, ul. Izaaka 3, tel.
(+48) 12 430 14 51, www.restauracjawarsztat.pl. This
little cafe/restaurant pretty much represents everything we
love about Kazimierz: a charmingly kooky, casual atmosphere
of effortless originality created by candlelight and a clutter
of battered musical instruments. The food - risottos, pasta,
salads, pizza and more - is generous in portioning and rich
in flavour without any notion that your wallet will be, making
Warsztat an excellent detour from the day’s agenda. Recommended.
Also now at (D-6), ul. Bożego Ciała 1. QOpen
09:00 - 24:00. (15-43zł). A6GSW
Mexican
Alebriche A-1, ul. Karmelicka 56. In a town that should
be admonished for its awful Mexican food, Alebriche happily
has almost nothing in common with its competition,
and here’s the simple difference: it’s actually owned and
operated by a local Mexican family (gasp!). Developing a cult
following since its opening, Alebriche sends local expats into
ecstasy with its simple, authentic, dirt-cheap Mexican eats.
The Maluch
Like the Czech Škoda and
the East German Trabant,
the Polish Maluch has
served several purposes
during its lifetime; a Godsend
for families behind
the Iron Curtain, source of
amusement for smirking
© Christophe Gruszka
foreigners and now, as a
cult icon for nostalgists. Through the years Polish exports
have won world acclaim, from expertly cut glass to dangerously
delicious vodka, so this flimsy tin deathtrap on wheels
is something of an unlikely hero of Polish engineering.
Manufactured between 1973 and 2000 in Bielsko-Biała and
Tychy, the car was produced under the Italian Fiat license
with its official title being the ‘Polish Fiat 126p’. Its diminutive
size earned it the moniker of ‘Maluch’ (Little One), a name so
widely used that the manufacturers officially re-christened
the brand in 1997. When first produced in June 1973 it was
priced at 69,000zł (approximately three times the average
annual wage), and became the first popular family car in Poland,
despite being the size of a small refrigerator. Throughout
communist times the car could only be purchased by
joining a lengthy waiting list, though diligent workers would
often be rewarded with special vouchers allowing them to
jump the queue. Though production came to a halt in 2000,
the surprisingly reliable cars have achieved a remarkable
staying power, and you’ll still find scores of them coughing
smoke as they zip around Polish cities. Today a used Maluch
retails for about 300-500zł, so there’s little stopping you
from becoming a proud owner yourself.
Kraków In Your Pocket krakow.inyourpocket.com
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February - March 2013

52 RESTAURANTS RESTAURANTS 53
KOJI SUSHI JAPANESE
RESTAURANT
WE WELCOME YOU
Kraków
ul. Poselska 18/1
tel.12 42 252 66
WWW.KOJISUSHI.PL
The menu includes everything from huevos rancheros to
flan, with nacho sets, spicy soups, tamales, proper chicken
mole and more in between. In addition to margaritas and
micheladas, this is the only place in town where you can get
horchata (our fave). A simple, but bright, colourful interior
full of photos and folk art confirms that the focus is on food
- so good you’ll be coming back until you’ve tried everything
on the menu. Recommended. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00, Sun
11:00 - 20:00. (13-30zł). AGSW
Taco Mexicano El Pueblo C-4, ul. Poselska 20, tel.
(+48) 12 421 54 41. This perpetually packed veteran
restaurant is one of the most popular in Kraków and it’s
a damn shame. Meals are preceded by complimentary
peanuts (huh?), the margaritas are strong but shallow, the
spicy sauce is shockingly mild, there’s not a black bean in
sight and meals come buried beneath two sides of pickled
cabbage. The cheerful Mexican cantina interior is the
primary highlight and we can only guess that it’s the novel
and disorienting dissimilarity between Polish and Mexican
cuisine that continues to make El Pueblo the coveted
choice of every local couple out on a cheap date. QOpen
12:00 - 23:00, Thu 12:00 - 23:30, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00.
(20-40zł). PTA6UGSW
The Mexican C-2, ul. Floriańska 34, tel. (+48) 500
10 31 00, www.mexican.pl. Further proof of Poland’s
naivete towards Mexican cuisine, this franchise finally
arrives in Kraków after tying its mule to posts in five
other Polish cities prior (that’s the sound of us smacking
our foreheads). Gimmicks include busty Polish senioritas
with exposed bellies slinging tequila shots from the
bottle holstered to their belts, light fixtures fashioned
from Desperados bottles, and ‘Wanted’ posters featuring
sombreroed patrons tacked everywhere. As for food
and drink, all dishes come with pickled cabbage and the
margaritas are rimmed with sugar, so forget authenticity.
Still, this colourful, over-priced cantina could be great fun
for a group piss-up, and though the placebo doesn’t work
on us, all the snogging couples would suggest it’s a proven
date destination. Ay carumba. QOpen 11:30 - 24:00. (20-
50zł). TA6EXS
Polish
Bar Smak B-2, ul. Karmelicka 10, tel. (+48) 12
431 21 49. Brilliant. Not at the top of anyone’s list for
a night of fine dining, that is not the point of Bar Smak.
Instead this is a local place for local people who cram
around the wooden tables to eat huge portions of wellloved
standards, from cheap pierogi to excellent bigos
to great big golonka. Order from the board or ask for an
English menu. Set meals of soup, a side, potatoes and a
main go for 16zł, meaning you can eat like a Polish king
for peanuts. Open late and we love it. QOpen 11:00 -
22:00. (10-16zł). T6UGS
Chimera B-3, ul. Św. Anny 3, tel. (+48) 12 292 12
12, www.chimera.com.pl. Once combining budget food
with sophisticated surroundings, the sumptuous cellars
of Chimera have been given over to the fine dining establishment
that once resided next door, while the budget
buffet is now only on the terraced garden (see Quick
Eats). Elegant and ethereal with a surrealist sense of
humour amidst the secessionist decor, this underground
charmer is favoured by local art mavens and academic
owls dining on a range of Polish game options (geese,
rabbit, deer) unveiled from beneath silver serving domes
at the table. Splendid. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (30-55zł).
TA6GSW
Chłopskie Jadło C-3, ul. Św. Jana 3, tel. (+48) 12 429
51 57, www.chlopskiejadlo.pl. One of the most well-known
and long-running Polish food franchises, Chłopskie Jadło is a
reliable romp through the glories of Polish peasant cooking, and
a popular choice for tourist groups. Once known for their blue
country cottage interiors, a recent re-branding has preserved the
atmosphere of 19th century village life created by the collection of
rustic furnishings, farming machinery, folk music and motifs - not
to mention staff members kitted out as saucy country wenches
- while modernising it to look less like an old-fashioned museum.
The fresh red and beige colour palette brings a brightness and levity
that was previously lacking, and somehow makes the lengthy
menu of stodgy peasant dishes more palatable, despite portions
being as gut-busting as ever. Also at ul. Św. Agnieszki 1 (C-6, open
12:00-22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00-23:00). QOpen 10:00 - 22:00, Fri,
Sat 10:00 - 23:00. (12-65zł). PTAUGS
NEW
Chopin C-3, Rynek Główny 39, tel. (+48) 12 433 70 10.
One of the main advantages of eating in a restaurant named
after a famous Polish pianist is that you don’t have to dine to
the Polish pop radio ubiquitous elsewhere, but rather the sophisticated
sounds of Chopin and his classical companions.
This alone does more to elevate the atmosphere than the
simple, albeit quite tastefully decorated interior of ancient
archways, plush booths, and pink and beige striped walls.
Modern, sophisticated and not at all stuffy or old-fashioned,
Chopin is a casual and convenient place to enjoy fairly priced
Polish and Galician cuisine - all of it prepared before you in an
open kitchen. Enter via a corridor off the market square to
be greeted a large gold visage of the musical genius upon arrival.
QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (18-50zł). PA6UGSW
C.K. Browar B-2, ul. Podwale 6-7, tel. (+48) 12 429
25 05, www.ckbrowar.krakow.pl. For over fifteen years
and counting this huge and rowdy Old Town cellar has been
Kraków’s primary microbrewery, pouring fresh, unfiltered and
unpasteurized Light, Ginger, Dunkel and Weizen ales straight
from the tank into your mug. As if that weren’t enough to have
you plotting your route, there’s also a restaurant and disco in
this underground complex, making it that much harder to find
the daylight again once you’ve descended those stairs. Lads will
love the beer hall atmosphere and sports on the tube, plus the
added attraction of getting the home-brew served in a tall glass
pipe with its own private tap on your table. To really go whole
hog, reserve the classic Hunter’s Room - a beautiful banquet
space with fine wood panelling and plenty of antlers - and feast
in style on traditional Polish and Austrian dishes done right. Best
of all, the prices don’t seem to have changed since the day they
opened, making the food a great bargain. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00,
Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:00. (18-65zł). PTAGSW
NEW
Czerwone Korale C-2, ul. Sławkowska 13-15, tel. (+48)
12 430 61 08. This traditional Polish restaurant may have the
disadvantage of being discreet from the street, but the interior
is one of the most vibrant and welcoming in the Old Town. Unlike
others of its ilk, here the simple, but charming folk decor
favours colour over clutter: cheerful chandeliers wrapped in
wicker wreaths wound with bright ribbons and beads hang from
arched red ceilings, giving the two dining rooms (don’t miss the
beautiful banquet room in the back) a warm glow, while photos
of dancing highlanders and peasant maidens frolicking in folk
costumes line the walls. Even more colour comes from the
kitchen, which serves all the Polish standards, but with some
creative innovations and a flair for presentation that we were
hardly expecting. There’s an entire page of vegetarian dishes
(!) and the overall quality of the food makes Czerwone Korale
not only a pleasant surprise, but also a great value. QOpen
12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00. (14-28zł). PTUGS
Kraków In Your Pocket krakow.inyourpocket.com
krakow.inyourpocket.com
February - March 2013

54 RESTAURANTS RESTAURANTS 55
Traditional Polish cuisine,
modern character
Open: Sun- Thu 10-22 Fri-Sat 10-24
The Obwarzanek
Any culinary journey through Kraków is likely to start with
the obwarzanek. A chewy dough ring sprinkled (usually
extremely unevenly) with salt, poppy or sesame seeds,
obwarzanki are sold from rolling carts on every other street
corner in Kraków, and are so inescapable they’ve become
an unofficial symbol of the city. In fact the obwarzanek is
one of only two Polish foods currently protected by the
EU on its Traditional Foods List. Known as the Krakowian
bagel, the obwarzanek gets its name from the Polish word
for ‘par-boiled’ and therefore differs slightly from the bagel,
in addition to being its internationally popular counterpart’s
predecessor. Though the origins of the Jewish bagel are
complex, confusing and hotly-contested, most agree that
it was invented by Kraków Jews after 1496 when King
Jan Sobieski lifted the decree that formerly restricted
the production of baked goods to the Kraków Bakers
Guild. First written mention of the obwarzanek meanwhile
dates back to 1394, meaning that it’s been a daily sight
on Kraków’s market square for over 600 years. Though
increased tourism in recent years has jacked the price of
an obwarzanek up to around 1.50zł (sacrilege!), you’ll still
see countless people on the go munching these pretzel
rings. Tasty and filling when fresh, the art of truly enjoying
an obwarzanek leaves a lot up to chance. Krakowian bakers
produce up to 200,000 obwarzanki daily in the summer,
despite the fact that on leaving the oven the baked goods
have a sell-by date of about three hours. As such, finding
a hot one is essential. Enjoyed by people of all ages,
obwarzanki also feed Kraków’s entire pigeon population
when in the evenings the city’s 170-180 obwarzanki carts
essentially become bird-food vendors.
Hawełka C-3, Rynek Główny 34, tel. (+48) 12 422 06
31, www.hawelka.pl. Kraków’s moved on, but Hawełka
hasn’t. If you want to experience the Kraków of olde, this enduring,
achingly formal holdover is the place to do it, just like
Queen Elisabeth II, the King of Greece and numerous Austro-
Hungarian Archdukes before them did at one time. The menu
is an encyclopaedic choice of traditional Polish game and
fish dishes served without interruption or reinvention since
1876, and the dining room is a very green (popular colour in
those days) trip back to the turn of the 20th century with a
reproduction of Jan Matejko’s massive ‘Prussian Homage’
looming over the proceedings - perhaps the only inauthentic
thing about having a meal in this legendary local institution.
QOpen 12:00 - 22:00. (20-69zł). PTA6EXSW
Jarema D-1, Pl. Matejki 5, tel. (+48) 12 429 36 69,
www.jarema.pl. Classy Eastern Polish and other dishes
from the region in a slightly ostentatious, 19th-century setting.
Waitresses in traditional costume serve from a large
menu including steak with quail eggs, a few vegetarian
dishes, pheasant and wild boar. Despite the harking back
to the good old days, this is not your classic tourist trap.
Highly recommended. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (18-50zł).
PTA6UIVEGSW
Kawaleria Szarża Smaku (Cavalry) B-3, ul. Gołębia
4, tel. (+48) 12 430 24 32, www.kawaleria.com.pl.
Three spacious rooms decorated with an equine motif - paintings
of Cossacks and jockeys hang alongside sabres and
hunting trophies - include a large fireplace and lush seasonal
garden. The menu changes seasonally, but represents a
strong review of upmarket Polish game dishes (including wild
boar in prune sauce) with some vegetarian dishes included
as well. For kids there’s not only a special menu, but an entire
fun corner with a toy chest and rocking horse. Kawaleria’s
excellent food, service and value have been recognised by
many, most recently a tyre company called ‘Michelin.’ QOpen
12:00 - 22:00. (18-55zł). PTAUIGSW
Kogel Mogel C-3, ul. Sienna 12, tel. (+48) 12 426 49 68,
www.kogel-mogel.pl. With fine table settings, very attentive
service, PRL era music and plenty of red carnations (including
some impressive carnation chandeliers), this nostalgic effort
evokes the atmosphere of an old school eatery for the communist
elite - something akin to an upscale 1970s hotel restaurant
from what we can tell. Named after a Soviet-era children’s
dessert of whipped eggs and sugar (poor kids), Kogel Mogel’s
clever newspaper-style menu bursts with wit and creativity,
and is now happily available in English, German and Russian.
Consisting of proletariat Polish classics, note that you need to
order sides separately. Meals are preceded by pickles, bread
and lard spread, and the kompot is delicious. Enjoy joining the
Party. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (17-48zł). PTAEGSW
Marmolada C-3, ul. Grodzka 5, tel. (+48) 12 396 49
46, www.marmoladarestauracja.pl. While Kraków’s
super-saturated restaurant market has seen plenty of
tankings of late, the team behind the ever-popular and duly
praised Miód Malina continues to expand. Sister eatery Marmolada
offers delicious local Małopolska delicacies, perfectly
prepared and fired for a few minutes in a large stone oven
before arriving at your table. Narrow, yet long and cavernous,
Marmolada utilises floral folk patterns, canopied ceilings,
big timber tables and poinsettas to create their unique
combination of a comfortable local atmosphere and low
prices with great food and service. Go elegant on Grodzka,
just doors down from the city’s most exclusive restaurant
(Wierzynek), and you can leave with a bill that less than half
the size. Q Open 07:00 - 11:00, 12:00 - 23:00. (17-54zł).
PTAUEGSW
Milkbar Tomasza D-3, ul. Św. Tomasza 24, tel.
(+48) 12 422 17 06. A modernisation of the classic
Polish cafeteria, the mantra of Polish/Irish-owned Milk
Bar might be that cheap, slow-cooked Polish food need
not be unappealing, lack flavour, or served in cramped,
unclean surroundings. Hardly a reinvention of local cuisine,
Milk Bar pays proper respect to its culinary roots
(take our milky pickle soup with rice for example - only
a Polish mind could conceive such a thing), swapping
slippered grannies for a staff of cute students and
institutional interiors for a bit of colour and wall-length
windows. The daily special (18zł) includes soup and
entree and gives you three options of each to choose
from, or select from the set chalkboard menu of pierogi,
potato pancakes, crepes, bagels and breakfast options.
Comfort, cleanliness and taste are worth the extra 5zł in
our opinion. QOpen 08:00 - 21:00, Sun 09:00 - 21:00.
(10-18zł). PTAUGSW
Miód i Wino (Honey and Wine) C-2, ul.
Sławkowska 32, tel. (+48) 12 422 74 95, www.
miodiwino.pl. Champion dishes of traditional Polish fare
in a setting piled as high as the food with muskets, antlers
and suits of armour. All extras (vegetables, bread) cost
extra, and you’ll need to explain clearly how you expect
your meat to be cooked; but the flair of the service,
quality of the food and fondness of the folk musicians
playing full force nearby create a fun atmosphere that’s
completely worth being in. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (20-
80zł). PTAUEXS
Miód Malina (Honey Raspberry) C-4, ul. Grodzka
40, tel. (+48) 12 430 04 11, www.miodmalina.pl. Consistently
excellent meals have seen Miód Malina establish
themselves as one of the top restaurants in town, so book
ahead if you fancy taking in the Grodzka views afforded by
the raised window-side seating. This cheerful looking restaurant
comes with raspberries painted onto the walls and
a pleasing glow that illuminates the darker evenings. Floral
touches aplenty here, lending a storybook, candy cottage
atmosphere, while the menu mixes up the best of Polish and
Italian cooking. The prices remain pegged generously low
making a visit here not just recommended (as the Michelin
Guide 2012 did) but essential. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (26-
60zł). PTAUGSW
Morela C-3, ul. Stolarska 13, tel. (+48) 12 421 08
33, www.restauracjamorela.pl. A comfortable, modern
plum and chestnut coloured interior uses a sly design full of
planters and partitions to make each party feel like they have
the place to themselves, and the large tables are ideal for
getting some work done or conducting a meeting. With the
atmosphere and decor ably executed, the menu is a mix of
simple, satisfying Polish food. All entrees come with potatoes
or traditional buckwheat groats (‘kasza’) on the side; that
the first page of the menu is devoted entirely to variations
on groats (including a plum and bacon option), you can bet
that this ordinary Polish staple rises above expectations,
and portions are so enormous that it’s borderline wasteful.
QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00. (15-40zł).
TAGSW
Morskie Oko B-2, Pl. Szczepański 8, tel. (+48) 12
431 24 23, www.morskieoko.krakow.pl. Morskie Oko
aims to capture the mountain spirit of Zakopane so there’s
plenty of primitive looking furniture, waitresses with bits
bursting out of tradtional costume and regular live bands
making a racket. The food is caveman in style, delicious
hunks of grilled animals. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (18-45zł).
PTAIEGSW
Kraków In Your Pocket krakow.inyourpocket.com
krakow.inyourpocket.com
February - March 2013

56 RESTAURANTS RESTAURANTS 57
BEST
PLACE
TO EAT
“Friendly efficient staff,
delicious food, and had
a very happy evening!”
Margaret by krakow.inyourpocket.com
Cracovian Cuisine, A-O
Polish food is famous for being simple, hearty and almost
uniformly off-white in colour. You simply haven’t had a
thorough sampling of it until you’ve tried all the traditional
dishes below. Though most can be found at almost any
Polish restaurant or bar mleczny in town, we’ve given you
our picks of the litter, making your stomach a happy camper
and keeping its contents intact. Smacznego!
Bigos
Traditionally a winter dish, Bigos is a hearty stew made in
large batches. Though there is no standard recipe, ingredients
usually include lots of fresh and pickled cabbage,
leftover meat parts and sausage, onion, mushrooms, garlic
and whatever else is on hand. In fact, metaphorically Bigos
translates to ‘big mess,’ ‘confusion’ or ‘trouble’ in Polish.
Seasoned with peppercorns, bay leaves, caraway and
the kitchen sink, the stew is left to gestate, sometimes
underground, for a few days for full flavour infusion. A Polish
restaurant or prospective wife can be fairly measured
on the strength of their Bigos; we’ve had the best at Miód
Malina, Bar Smak and Kamil’s mom’s house.
Gołąbki
Translating to ‘little pigeons,’ this favourite dish consists
of boiled cabbage leaves stuffed with beef, onion and rice
before being baked and served in a tomato or mushroom
sauce. Polish legend claims King Kazimierz fed his army
gołąbki before a battle outside Malbork against the
Teutonic Order, and their unlikely subsequent victory has
been attributed to the hearty meal ever since. Bolster your
own courage at Pod Baranem or try the creative veggie
versions at Vega Bar.
Kraków
Rynek G³ówny 10
tel. +48 12 422 74 60
www.weselerestauracja.pl
Golonka
Pork knuckle or hock, as in pig’s thigh, boiled, braised, or
generally roasted and put before you on a plate. A true
Polish delicacy, you’d be best served to buy it at a roadside
stand as you’re driving through the countryside, but there
are a few places in Kraków that have proven peerless when
it comes to pork hocks: Kawaleria – where its served with
pepper sauce, and Pod Wawelem where the servings slip
right off the bone and are so impossibly large we’d prefer
not to know where they came from.
Kiełbasa
Sausages, and in Poland you’ll find several varieties made
primarily with pork, but sometimes using turkey, horse,
lamb and even bison. There are a few varieties to watch
for including Krakowska, a Kraków specialty seasoned
with pepper and garlic; Kabanosy, a thin, dry sausage
flavoured with caraway seed; and Kaszanka, a blood
sausage filled with groats and pig’s blood. These you’ll find
in any delikatesy or butcher shop, but head to Kiełbasa z
Rozna at the Hala Targowa marketplace (E-4) between
20:00 and 03:00 to get a taste of Kraków’s most famous
sausage. Here, two old-timers have been serving sausage
out of a van, cooking it over a wood-stoked grill, since time
immemorial at this hallowed sidewalk stand.
Naleśniki
The Polish equivalent of French crepes, these are thin
pancakes wrapped around pretty much any filling you can
dream of, savoury or sweet. Generally the easy way out
in any dodgy Polish dining establishment, Vega Bar has
a unique Ukrainian interpretation which can’t be beat.
“One of the best dining experiences
we have ever had. This place
deserves a michelin star!”
James by krakow.inyourpocket.com
Cracovian Cuisine, P-Z
Pierogi
Doughy dumplings traditionally filled with potato (Ruskie),
sweet cheese, meat, mushrooms and cabbage, strawberries
or plums, though you will find plenty of maverick fillings
like broccoli, chocolate or liver as the possibilities are truly
limitless. The standards are served almost everywhere in
the city; head to Pierożki U Vincenta or Zapiecek for a
more expansive selection.
Placki
These greasy, fried potato pancakes (‘placki ziemniaczane’)
are very similar to Jewish latkes (if that means
anything to you) and ideal for meatless winter days. Served
with sauce, goulash or simply sour cream on top, placki
are a great hangover cure and you’ll find them on menus
everywhere. U Babci Maliny’s ‘Placki po Węgiersku’
is generally accepted as one of the most delicious and
highly-caloric meals you’ll ever have anywhere in your life.
Soup
Poland has three signature soups: barszcz, żurek and
flaki. A nourishing beetroot soup, barszcz may be served
with potatoes and veggies tossed in, with a croquette or
miniature pierogi floating in it, or simply as broth in a mug
expressly for drinking. A recommended alternative to other
beverages with any winter meal, we’d be surprised if you
can find a bad cup of barszcz anywhere in Kraków. It doesn’t
get any more Polish than żurek – a unique sour rye soup
with sausage, potatoes and sometimes egg chucked in.
Our vote goes to Bar Smak but you also can’t beat Wesele’s
batch eaten out of a breadbowl. If you’re of strong
Kraków
ul. Grodzka 40
tel. +48 12 430 04 11
www.miodmalina.pl
constitution and feeling truly adventurous, spring for flaki
– beef tripe soup enriched with veggies, herbs and spices.
A hearty standby in most kitchens, we personally save the
pleasure for compromising situations involving mother-inlaws,
but you can take your chances at Chłopskie Jadło.
Smalec
Vegetarians who broke their vows for a bite of sausage
or a taste of żurek generally draw the line here. An animal
fat spread full of fried lard chunks (the more the better, we
say) and served with hunks of homemade bread, Smalec
is a savoury snack that goes great with a mug of beer. Any
traditional Polish restaurant worth its salt should give you
lashings of this prior to your meal; we’ve had the best at
Pod Baranem, or buy your own at Krakowskie Kredens.
Zapiekanka
The ultimate Polish drunk food. Order one at any train station
in PL and you’ll get half a stale baguette covered with mushrooms
and cheese, thrown in a toaster oven and squirted
with ketchup. Underwhelming to say the least. However the
vendors of Kazimierz’s Plac Nowy (D-6) have made a true
art out of the ‘Polish pizza.’ With endless add-ons (including
salami, spinach, smoked cheese, pickles, pineapple, feta –
you name it), garlic sauce and chives have become standard
procedure at this point. Because of their popularity you’ll
witness ridiculous lines at the various windows around the
roundhouse, but the wait is worth it. At 8-10zł it’s a great value
and will sustain you through a night of heavy drinking. To leave
town without having tried a Plac Nowy zapiekanka would be
felonious, as would settling for one anywhere else in Kraków.
Kraków In Your Pocket krakow.inyourpocket.com
krakow.inyourpocket.com
February - March 2013

58 RESTAURANTS RESTAURANTS 59
BEST
PLACE
TO EAT
“Heaven! Fantastic food,
excellent wine, great service.
In one word: PERFECT!”
Maria - London
Nostalgia B-2, ul. Karmelicka 10, tel. (+48) 12
425 42 60, www.nostalgia.krakow.pl. Smashing
Polish cuisine served inside an intriguing interior that
features a fireplace, wood beams and a galaxy of rural
decorative touches. It’s a light and warming design
with plenty of glass bottles and rusty trappings to act
as visual diversions and the menu proves equally well
thought out. Choose from local classics like the wonderfully
fluffy pierogi or opt for the king-sized duck served
with baked apples. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (18-75zł).
PTAUIXSW
Pierożki u Vincenta D-6, ul. Bożego Ciała
12, tel. (+48) 506 80 63 04, www.pierozkiuvincenta.com.pl.
A great place to introduce yourself
to this national staple, though U Vincenta’s version
rises above the ordinary. Though it may be impossible
to ‘reinvent’ a food as versatile as the pierogi,
this veteran establishment has tried with apple and
liver, minced lamb, chicken and spinach, and broccoli
and feta among the 30 different options. Get
a mixed-batch to share with a friend, and top it off
with your choice of a variety of sauces and extras.
Popular, cheap and cheerful (thanks to a sunflowered,
starry-nighted Van Gogh interior), takeaway
may be your best option at peak feed times. QOpen
11:00 - 21:00. (9-18zł). AGS
Pod Aniołami (Under the Angel) C-4, ul.
Grodzka 35, tel. (+48) 12 421 39 99, www.podaniolami.pl.
For a taste of Polish medieval cuisine,
experience this charming spot ‘under the angels’. As
you enter you find yourself immersed in a cavernous,
monastic-like, candle-lit haven that has a very cosy and
Kraków
ul. Grodzka 5
tel. +48 12 396 49 46
www.marmoladarestauracja.pl
engaging atmosphere and an unexpected warmth in
some places two full levels under the old Royal Route.
They have two transparent and open oven-grills along
with displays for the main entree ingredients so you
can watch the creation of your meal from beginning
to end. Among the winding corridors reputedly built
in the 13th Century you will find a year-round open
garden and fountain, casks and medieval style wooden
furnishings, and a few hidden bars so you needn’t wait
for your drinks to descend to your depths. The menu
includes massive meals for up to 35 people, and has
nearly everything imaginable that is smoked, grilled,
or traditionally Polish. QOpen 13:00 - 24:00. (27-70zł).
PTA6GSW
Pod Baranem C-5, ul. św. Gertrudy 21, tel. (+48)
12 429 40 22, www.podbaranem.com. An admirable
establishment near Wawel Castle, the interior of
exposed brick and wooden ceiling beams, a fireplace
and skilful mural of Kraków in one of the rooms, offset
by framed photos of family and guests on the walls,
creates a truly comfortable and classy dining environment.
Serving Polish standards including cream of wild
mushroom soup in a bread-bowl, the menu features
more meat than you’ll find at a livestock market, with
deer and wild boar getting into the menagerie as well.
Our shredded pork wrapped in cabbage leaves with
mushroom sauce left us more than satisfied, but
the true standout was the complimentary pre-meal
smalec and bread - maybe the best we’ve tasted in
Kraków. For those stricken with food allergies, this is
one of the only places in town to offer gluten-free
meals, of which their menu dedicates a page. QOpen
12:00 - 22:00. (19-67zł). PTAIXS
Pod Wawelem C-5, ul. Św. Gertrudy 26-29, tel. (+48)
12 421 23 36, www.podwawelem.eu. The place to visit if
you’re looking to hit your daily calorie quota in one meal. Huge
portions of acceptable food helped by enormous amounts of
veg, cascade off the steel pans and wooden boards they’re
served on, while uniformed staff weave between the bench
seating serving frothing steins of lager. Great for groups and
families, kids have their own large rumpus area, while the
grown-ups soak up the beer hall atmosphere shouting over
energetic live folk music. Litre beers are encouraged and
half-price on Mondays, and there’s a handy ‘vomitorium’ in the
men’s room - i.e, two enormous steel basins for those suffering
from over-consumption to hock their recently imbibed pork
hocks. Q Open 06:30 - 10:30, 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 06:30 -
10:30, 12:00 - 23:00. (16-60zł). PTAUEGBSW
Polakowski D-6, ul. Miodowa 39, tel. (+48) 12 421
07 76, www.polakowski.com.pl. The definitive local
dining experience. Join the queue and order big plates of
piping hot food dished up from metal containers, before
bussing your dishes to the wash-up window. Choose from
the likes of cutlets with mashed potatoes, spinach or beet
salad sides, soups, pierogi and other timeless classics. Far
better than it looks or sounds, Polakowski is an editorial fave.
Essentially an upmarket milk bar this place has gone the
extra yard (or justified the extra zloty) by adding a toilet and
English language menu. Also on Pl. Wszystkich Świętych 10
(C-4), ul. Mogilska 35 (K-2) and in M1 (Al. Pokoju 67). QOpen
09:00 - 22:00. (8-18zł). PTA6GS
Restauracja Gessler we Francuskim C-2, ul. Pijarska
13, tel. (+48) 12 627 37 49, www.hotel-francuski.
com. Taking the helm of the Francuski Hotel, Polish star
restaurateur Adam Gessler has created one of the most
impressive and popular places in town. Dingy, unfinished
walls contrast with the olde-world over-the-top service of
white suit-jacketed gentlemen who serve everything at your
table, even preparing some of it in front of you from the
laborious mincing of the steak tartare to the firing of the
sugar glaze on the creme brulee, all while a pianist tickles
ivories in the corner. The set three-course ‘Espresso Lunch’
(served Mon-Sat 12:00-16:00) is a fantastic opportunity to
experience high society inter-war elegance for a shocking
20zł. As such, this place is packed and we are totally on
board. Q Open 07:00 - 11:00, 12:00 - 24:00. (40-60zł).
PTAUEGSW
NEW
Stara Zajezdnia (The Old Depot) E-6, ul. Św.
Wawrzyńca 12, tel. (+48) 664 32 39 88, www.starazajezdniakrakow.pl.
After spending decades completely
abandoned, this old tram depot (across from the Transportation
Museum) has assumed a second life as Kraków’s
biggest brewery and beer hall. A large complex of cavernous
brick and timber buildings, Stara Zajezdnia sadly suffers
for its size, however, and the impressive main hall - which
features the city’s longest bar - has already been deemed
too impractical to open for group reservations of less than
100. The smaller out-building that presently serves as the
main dining hall can still feel pretty lonely without a large
party on hand, but if you happen to be in one, do bring it
here. Flat screens are on hand for football and the porter,
wheat, lager and honey ales do well to wash down the ribs,
pork knuckle and other tasty traditional fare tailored to
complement the on-site brewed beer. Once that pops your
buttons, don’t overlook the separate menu of single cask,
single malt whiskies - a first for Kraków - if you want to beat
your friends in the race to be first under the table. QOpen
12:00 - 22:00. PAGW
Kraków In Your Pocket krakow.inyourpocket.com
krakow.inyourpocket.com
February - March 2013

60 RESTAURANTS RESTAURANTS 61
Milk Bars
A lot has changed over the years since communism got
kneecapped and Poland joined the EU. Today a destination
as popular as Kraków hardly seems any more alien
or adventurous to tourists than well-frequented Paris or
Venice. And while many of the old ways of the old days
have disappeared or become slightly disneyfied, one relic
remains steadfastly un-Western: the Polish milk bar. These
steamy cafeterias serving traditional cuisine to an endless
queue of tramps, pensioners and students provide
a grim glimpse into Eastern Bloc Poland and have all the
atmosphere (and sanitary standards) of a gas station
restroom. We love them. For the cost of a few coins you
can eat like an orphaned street urchin, albeit an extremely
well-fed one. Put Wawel on hold, a visit to the milk bar (‘bar
mleczny’ in Polish) is a required cultural experience for
anyone who has just set foot in the country.
As in so many things, Kraków has the distinction of being
the birthplace of the bar mleczny. Poland’s first milk
bar was actually opened on Kraków’s market square
on May 30th 1948 in the townhouse now occupied by
the upstanding Szara restaurant. Named ‘Pod Bańką’
(Under the Milk Churn), originally no hot dishes were
served; this was a place where you went simply to enjoy
milk (hence the name), humbly served in .25 litre glass
with a straw (so classy). Run by the government, this
was the new party’s ‘clever’ attempt at popularising
milk-drinking (as opposed to moonshine), inspired by
Poland’s large surplus of dairy products. As restaurants
were nationalised and then shut down by PL’s communist
authorities, more and more milk bars appeared across
the country and began offering cheap, dairy-based meals
to the masses and especially workers; quite often meals
at the local milk bar were included in a worker’s salary.
By the mid-60s milk bars were widely prevalent across
Poland as the party concept was to provide cheap, fast
food to everyone (as cheerlessly as possible apparently).
In addition to milk, yoghurt, cottage cheese and other
dairy concoctions, milk bars offered omelettes and egg
cutlets, as well as flour-based foods like pierogi. Times
were so desperate under communism that many bar
mleczny resorted to chaining the cutlery to the table to
deter rampant thievery; by this same reasoning you’ll still
notice today that most milk bars use disposable dishes
and the salt and pepper are dispensed from plastic cups
with a spoon. Similarly, the orders are still taken by bluehaired,
blue-veined, all-business babcias -and the food
is as inspired as ever, the only difference being meat
isn’t rationed any more in modern PL. Indeed, today’s
milk bars evoke a timelessness to be savoured just as
the milk soup with noodles served to schoolchildren in
PL in the 1980s was. With the collapse of communism
most bar mleczny went bankrupt, however, fortunately
for us all, some of these feed museums were saved and
continue to be kept open and dirt cheap through state
subsidies. The range of available dishes begins to fall off
as closing time approaches, so go early, go often. Below
are our favourites in the city centre:
Bar Targowy J-3, ul. Daszyńskiego 19, tel. (+48)
12 421 14 37, www.bary.krakow.pl. QOpen 06:00 -
19:00, Sat 06:00 - 16:00, Sun 06:00 - 15:00. (6-16zł). G
Pod Temidą C-4, ul. Grodzka 43, tel. (+48) 12
422 08 74. The easiest to find: look for the blue and
white ‘Bar Mleczny’ sign. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00. (8-
16zł). UGS
Starka D-6, ul. Józefa 14, tel. (+48) 12 430 65 38,
www.starka.com.pl. If you want to try great Polish food
without eating in a medieval cellar or barnyard interior, then
seek out Starka, whose classic, dark interior with its timber
ceiling and bar crammed full of coloured bottles more resembles
a 19th century pub, thanks in part to the caricatures
by Heinrich Zille that cover the walls. Famed for its in-house
flavoured vodka concoctions, you can’t leave without trying a
few, but be wary that you don’t spoil your appetite. The menu
of perfectly prepared Polish food ranges from boneless pork
knuckle to rabbit loin wrapped in bacon and is a great value
for your money. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00.
(26-64zł). PTAGSW
Trezo E-6, ul. Miodowa 33, tel. (+48) 12 374 50 00,
www.trezo.pl. Well-designed to strike a balance between
modern elegance and casual comfort (as evidenced by
the polished marble floors and rough concrete ceiling),
this open, airy restaurant set out over two levels creates
an atmosphere almost akin to a wine and tapas bar. The
wine list comes through, but the small menu surprises with
its straightforwardness, affordability and lack of deviation
from the standard Polish classics. Take advantage of the
15zł daily specials and enjoy an air of exclusivity without
having to pay for it. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. (14-46zł).
PTA6UEGSW
U Babci Maliny C-2, ul. Sławkowska 17, tel. (+48)
12 422 76 01, www.kuchniaubabcimaliny.pl. Entering
this hidden cellar through the courtyard of a building on the
corner of Sławkowska and Św. Marka streets, you’ll descend
the stairs and greet a crossword-puzzled babcia who decides
if you can enter this kitschy country cottage of wooden
benches slung with sheep hides. You’ll be grateful to have
garnered her approval once you’ve tried the soups served
in breadbowls and pierogi served on breadplates (really), to
make no mention of the city-famous ‘placki po węgiersku’ - an
enormous plate of potato pancakes smothered in goulash,
cheese and sour cream. With budget prices for outlandishly
large and delicious servings, this should be a go-to for
anyone being introduced to Polish food...or who hasn’t eaten
in three days. Also with a location at ul. Szpitalna 38 (D-2).
QOpen 11:00 - 21:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 21:00. (12-25zł).
PTAIVEGS
Wentzl Magda Gessler C-3, Rynek Główny 19, tel.
(+48) 12 429 52 99, www.restauracjawentzl.pl. In
the upstairs of a 15th century building on Kraków’s market
square (nice view, huh?), the Wentzl restaurant itself can
trace its history back to the 18th century, and added a
new chapter when PL’s culinary first lady, Magda Gessler,
re-branded the restaurant in March 2012. Swapping dusty
oil paintings for fresh flowers, flowing curtains and pastel
colours, the new ‘Gesslered’ interior is bright, full of energy
and looks a bit like an Easter egg year round. We prefer her
culinary sense: with a knack for elevating traditional cuisine
to new artistic heights, the menu features creative dishes like
‘crispy foie gras with strawberry salad’ and ‘duck stuffed with
nuts on gingerbread’. The flavours are wonderful and we’ll
eat at Pani Gessler’s table any time. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00.
(38-118zł). PTAUGSW
Wesele C-3, Rynek Główny 10, tel. (+48) 12 422 74 60,
www.weselerestauracja.pl. This warm, timber-framed,
two-level eatery is one of the most popular on the market
square thanks to a reputation built on Michelin recommendations,
friendly service and a comfortable atmosphere.
If your Polish is about as good as your Chinese, the name
‘wesele’ refers to the lengthy celebration of family, food,
love and vodka that takes place after a traditional Polish
wedding service, and if this place weren’t full of tourists all
the clinking glasses and smiling faces might make you think
you’d actually crashed a Polish wedding party. The menu is
classic Polish cooking done exactly the way it was meant,
and the goose breast is fabulous. We recommend it also.
QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (17-68zł). PTAUEGSW
Wierzynek C-3, Rynek Główny 15, tel. (+48) 12 424
96 00, www.wierzynek.pl. Quite a launch party this
place: according to legend the opening night back in 1364
was attended by five kings and nine princes. Since then it’s
been one esteemed guest after another, with former diners
including De Gaulle, Bush, Castro and other bods who influence
the way the globe spins, as well as starlets like Sophie
Marceau and Kate Moss. A set of wooden stairs lead to a
series of imposing rooms decked out with tapestries and
plantlife while a seriously high-end menu includes ‘pike
perch flamed in mead’. QOpen 13:00 - 23:00. (38-128zł).
PTAEXSW
NEW
Zbójcy w Pałacu (Thieves in the Palace) B-3,
Rynek Główny 27, tel. (+48) 12 422 55 52. Located
opposite the Pod Baranami cinema in the high-ceilinged ‘palace’
of the same name, this curiously decorated restaurant
seems to follow the amusing, but somewhat hard to grasp
premise of its name by looking part rustic tavern (shaggy
sheepskins on timber benches) and part aristocratic abode
(fine china cabinets and bookshelf murals). The waitstaff are
colourfully attired either as chefs or highlander highwaymen
(our interpretation), but perfectly behaved, begging not the
question ‘who’s running this show?’, but rather ‘What’s for
dinner?’ To answer we’d advise ordering the delicious garlic
soup (with croutons, sausage and a fried egg), and considering
the menu’s biggest surprise - ‘deer in gingerbread
sauce, with homemade noodles and beets.’ Also note that
the one-person ‘Polish plate’ - a clever way to try all the
greasy standards of Polish cooking for only 39zł - is in fact
plenty of food to share between two people (at least by the
standards of our stomach). QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (20-50zł).
PTAUGSW
Russian
Wiśniowy Sad C-4, ul. Grodzka 33, tel. (+48) 12 430
21 11, www.kuchniarosyjska.com. Wiśniowy Sad offers
Russian, Ukrainian and Caucasus specialities like lamb
dumplings, caviar blini, pelmieni dried squid beer snacks and
a borscht that would rival that of the village’s best babushka.
Part-time chef, classical guitarist and all around swell guy
Yury Beychuk takes turns with another musician serenading
diners on Saturday evenings at 20:00. The interior is full of
festive drapes and tablecloths, ornate murals, candles and
crummy folk paintings, and you can expect to find some
fur on the coat-rack. Thoroughly authentic and affordable.
QOpen 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. (13-55zł).
TA6EGSW
Seafood
Farina C-2, ul. Św. Marka 16 (corner of ul. Św. Jana),
tel. (+48) 12 422 16 80, www.farina.com.pl. Homemade
pastas and great fish dishes have won Farina a devoted local
following and industry accolades. The aromatic, high-quality
Polish and Mediterranean cuisine is matched by the setting:
three bright, breezy rooms decorated in a comfortable,
homey style fitted with unfinished wood. The best time to visit
Farina is between Thursday and Sunday when the seafood
and oysters, imported from Brittany and Italy, are the most
fresh. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (30-89zł). PTAXSW
Kraków In Your Pocket krakow.inyourpocket.com
krakow.inyourpocket.com
February - March 2013

62 RESTAURANTS RESTAURANTS 63
Fat Thursday
RESTAURACJA
POD BARANEM
Ul. św. Gertrudy 21
31-049 Kraków. tel. +48 12 429 40 22
restauracja@podbaranem.com
Traditional Polish cuisine
Wild boar tenderloins
with forrest sauce
Spare ribs in a cabbage
leave with mushroom sauce
... and many more
Marcin Floryan
pl.wikipedia.org
Fat Thursday might
sound strange to those
of you who are used to
the literal translation of
the French term Mardi
Gras (Fat Tuesday), but
in Poland the last Thursday
before Lent begins
is just as gluttonous.
Because the Catholic
holiday of Lent typically forbids sweets and treats,
Fat Thursday (February 7, 2013) is seen as a last
chance to pack it in before abstaining until Easter. The
most popular items to consume on Fat Thursday are
pączki, large Polish doughnuts (we’re talking bigger
than your fist) that are usually filled with rose jelly but
can also contain pudding, cheese or even chocolate.
The outside of these hefty treats is usually coated in
a sweet glaze just to ensure you get plenty of sugary
goodness in every bite. Another similar item consumed
on Fat Thursday is faworki, a thinner dough ribbon
that is fried until crispy and sprinkled with powdered
sugar. So why the heaps of pastry? With Lent’s fasting
restrictions families looking to use up items that
would soon be contraband – lard, sugar and eggs, to
name a few – would make the sweet treats to burn
through their stores. Today it’s a lot easier to buy
faworki and pączki at the local bakery (just look for
the words “cukiernia” or “piekarnia”) than it is to make
it yourself, just make sure to buy plenty.
Thai
Samui B-3, ul. Wiślna 10, tel. (+48) 12 430 02 65,
www.samui.com.pl. After a successful launch several years
ago, and subsequent move into the Old Town, reports from
Samui - Kraków’s only exclusively Thai restaurant at the moment
- have been mixed at best, leading to an appearance on
Magda Gessler’s ‘Kuchenne Rewolucje’ (Kitchen Revolutions)
TV show in April 2012. Despite the makeover - including an
exceedingly colourful intrior emboldened with golden elephants
and sleeping buddhas - Ms. Magda’s magic seems to have
been short-lived, and Samui continues to garner ‘meh’ reviews
from customers unimpressed with the slow service and slightly
over-priced, mediocre food. Don’t be over-bold on the spice
quotient here, however - ‘medium’ will actually too hot for some
palettes. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00. (24-52zł). PTAGSW
Ukrainian
Smak Ukraiński C-5, ul. Kanonicza 15, tel. (+48) 12 421
92 94 ext.25, www.ukrainska.pl. This veteran restaurant
has survived the test of time and continues to serve up consistently
decent, stodgy food - shashlyks, steaks, pork, pierogi, potatoes
and borscht - at suitably Ukranian bargain prices. Small
children running amok all over the gorgeous courtyard garden
further adds to the authenticity, but may have you heading to
their folksy cellar where pleasant peasant-dressed staff keep
the bottles of underappreciated Ukrainian beer coming to your
table. Try all fifteen varieties and wake up feeling like a Chernobyl
victim. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00. (12-40zł). TAGSW
Vegetarian
Cafe Młynek D-7, Pl. Wolnica 7, tel. (+48) 12 430 62
02, www.cafemlynek.pl. The best café south of ul. Józefa
since its inception a decade ago, in addition to a classic Kazimierz
art gallery atmosphere, good coffee and square-side
summer seating, Młynek also serves a smattering of yummy
vegan and vegetarian dishes like humus and garlic bread,
quiches and a delicious Spanish tomato soup (like gazpacho,
but served hot). Sunday brunch complete with live classical
music between 11:00 and 13:00. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00,
Fri, Sat 08:00 - 01:00. (9-22zł). PTA6EGSW
Glonojad (Algae-eater) D-2, Pl. Matejki 2, tel. (+48) 12
346 16 77, www.glonojad.com. We’re the first to applaud the
opening of any vegetarian restaurant in PL, and while Glonojad’s
concise, eastern-inspired menu - featuring curry, samosas,
burritos and daily specials - is a refreshing alternative to your
typical Polish cafeteria, the fact that the aforementioned mains
hit rather low on the flavour scale and are served with two sides
of standard slaw/salad in an uninspired interior means the
end result isn’t that far off from being a sort of veggie milk bar;
albeit one with beer and wine, wifi, a computer and even a mini
bike-service to use. Fast, filling, healthy and a great value for
your money, Glonojad is sure to be popular with students sick
of greasy cutlets, but will sadly leave those with an appetite for
more creative veggie fare disappointed. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00,
Sat, Sun 09:00 - 22:00. (9-16zł). TA6GSW
Green Way C-3, ul. Mikołajska 14, tel. (+48) 12 431
10 27, www.greenway.pl. Despite the somewhat soulless
corporate packaging, this is an decent vegetarian effort wellfavoured
by students and travellers. Serving pita sandwiches,
samosas, crepes, quiche, curry, enchilladas, some delicious
spinach dumplings as well as daily specials, the prices are fair
and affordable, though the ambience leaves a bit to be desired.
It’s also just off the market square, making it the most central
of all Kraków’s veggie offerings. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00, Sat
11:00 - 22:00, Sun 11:00 - 21:00. (10-24zł). PT6GSW
Karma A-2, ul. Krupnicza 12, tel. (+48) 506 06 06 84.
One of Kraków’s most forward-thinking locales, in addition
to excellent, free-trade coffee and tea, this modern cafe offers
a range of treats for those who have embraced vegan
or gluten-free lifestyles. All of the outstanding baked goods,
including tarts, cakes and cookies, are made on site, and
daily specials include delicious vegetarian soups, stir-frys
and curries at great prices. There’s even a breakfast menu,
giving you every reason to go early and often. For vegans,
vegetarians, and anyone who enjoys great coffee, Karma is
a must-visit. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 19:00.
(15-23zł). TA6GSW
Momo D-6, ul. Dietla 49, tel. (+48) 609 68 57 75. A
cheap and cheerful vegetarian/vegan restaurant churning
out plates of brown rice, organic vegetable mashes, a good
choice of salads, a few Indian and Asian dishes and even
kimchee. Popular with left-leaning schoolteachers, the
wacky backpacker set and people that refuse to stop smiling,
Momo’s prices remain ludicrously cheap and the food
is both healthy and worth coming back for. Try the excellent
spicy sambar soup and don’t forget to smother your food
with their coveted peanut sauce. QOpen 11:00 - 20:00.
(10-19zł). T6UGS
Raw Organic D-7, Pl. Wolnica 12, tel. (+48) 512 11
85 79, www.raworganic.pl. The first raw vegan food bar
in Poland, if you aren’t familiar with this food and lifestyle approach,
simply head to Plac Wolnica and they will be happy
to sing its benefits to you. The basic idea is that food loses
much of its nutritional value when we cook it, thus a raw diet
gives you 100% of food’s natural minerals and enzymes,
keeping you healthier and happier, more youthful and
energetic. Raw Organic offers a variety of creative shakes
and fresh blended juices, salads, cold soups, gluten-free
cakes and more. The ingredients are nothing more than
fresh fruit and veggies, seeds, nuts and seaweed, and the
primary kitchen tool is a blender. Daring and audacious
not only in concept, but also in price, everything we tasted
was delicious, but you spend a lot to eat your fill and it’ll be
interesting to see if this trend can gain traction in a town as
traditional as Kraków. Also in the Old Town at ul. Gołębia 1
(B-3, open 11:00 - 19:00). QOpen 10:00 - 21:00. (12-35zł).
TA6UVGSW
Spółdzielnia Organic Resto & Take-away ul.
Meiselsa 11, tel. (+48) 536 77 74 05, spoldzielnia.
org. In concept, ‘Cooperative’ (as it translates to in English)
is an ambitious community initiative to promote a
healthy, organic, vegetarian lifestyle by supporting local
organic farms and creating more awareness about what
we eat and where it comes from. In action, it’s a crunchy
vegetarian lunch bar offering take-away wraps, stay-in daily
ul. Jodłowa 13, Kraków
tel. +48 12 429 71 05, +48 784 084 000
restauracja@uziyada.pl, www.uziyada.pl
specials and vegan desserts that all follow the philosophy
of the five transformations. Enjoy organic fair trade coffee
and tea, local organic beers and fresh squeezed juices in
a modest interior with paper bag lampshades and Manu
Chau explaining his bongo upbringing on the speakers. Find
out what else the local activists have on the agenda by
dropping in Wednesdays for film screenings in English and
weekends for live music. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (9-23zł).
T6IVEGSW
Vega A-2, ul. Krupnicza 22, tel. (+48) 12 430 08 46,
www.vegarestauracja.pl. A great alternative to Polish
meat and starch menus; though the prices have gone up
(get used to it, people), the food remains some of the best
vegetarian fare in the city and therefore a bargain. All around
excellent whether you’re a rabbit or not, with the biggest
stand-out being the salad bar. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. (11-
18zł). TA6UGSW
Have Your Say
If you have an opinion about any of the venues listed in
this guide, let the two million regular unique visitors to
our website, krakow.inyourpocket.com, know about it.
Every venue on our website has a function for comments,
be they critical, complimentary or comical, so spill it.
Cafe Culca
We visited the place while on holidays with our 2 1/2
years daughter. We all loved it. I totally recommend this
to any family with toodlers visiting Krakow. I wish our
country had a similar place!
Maria from Nicosia, Cyprus
Pod Wawelem
I thought this place was probably the best value for
money that I have been to outside of america!!!I do
agree that portions are too big I had a officers platter.
It had steak chop,pork chop,chicken chop,liver,bacon,
blood sausage(basically black pudding) and a normal
pork sausage with chipped potatoes,salsa, cabbage
and mint cabbage for 6 pounds who can really argue
with that!!!We went back a 2nd time on my birthday
and had a starter of soup each and a skewer of pork
between 4 of us(which also cost 6 pounds between
us) and it was enough. The waiters were lovely and
brought out a slice of birthday cake for me which I
thought was lovely. And just another tip the tiramsu
is to die for and also the lemon shots are worth a
try too!!!
Lee from Plymouth, UK
Kraków In Your Pocket krakow.inyourpocket.com
krakow.inyourpocket.com
February - March 2013

64
CAFÉS
Kraków is infamous for its cafe culture which easily rivals
that of celebrated capitals like Paris and Vienna, perhaps
even outmatching them pound for pound. The Kazimierz
district is particularly known for its atmospheric cafes,
filled with candlelight, antiques and Old World mystique.
Most Cracovian cafes also serve beer and the line
between cafe and bar can be a blurry one. The venues
we’ve listed here tend to favour coffee and cakes and
when most cafe/bar establishments are turning up the
music for their ‘til last guest’ clientele, these are more
often closing their doors.
4D Gelato Caffe D-1, ul. Pawia 5 (Galeria Krakowska),
tel. (+48) 12 628 73 22, www.gelateria4d.com. Delicious
gourmet Italian coffee and ice cream on the first floor
of Galeria Krakowska. On offer are more than 30 gelato
flavours and fruit sorbets, including some creative and utterly
adorable sundae creations for kids, plus pancakes,
bruschette, baguettes and other savoury eats. This modern
cafe with watermelon-coloured furnishings is the ultimate
place to recharge and treat yourself when shopping becomes
exhausting. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00.
PA6UGSW
Bal K-4, ul. Ślusarska 9 (entrance from ul.
Przemysłowa), tel. (+48) 608 58 94 59. If you’re feeling
a bit self-conscious about being a tourist after visiting
MOCAK or Schindler’s Factory, a trip to Bal will help restore
your street cred. Located literally right behind MOCAK, but
with a slyly hidden entrance (take your first left before
the museums), this stylish cafe, bar and brunch spot is
part of the first wave of pioneers pitching their tents in
Zabłocie (that unseemly, industrial section of Podgórze).
What should be an obscure studio space has been turned
Gelato Caffé
ul. Pawia 5 (Galeria Krakowska)
31-154 Kraków
tel. 12/628-73-22
4D Gelato Caffe
into a hip hangout with high ceilings and exposed bulbs,
wooden tables and white walls. At its best in the mornings
with great coffee and breakfast offerings (note the
all-you-can-eat weekend brunch buffet for only 15zł), daily
lunch specials accompany soup, sandwiches, quiche and
a good beer selection. Essentially the antithesis of everything
in the Old Town, with Bal Kraków’s young creatives
are marking their territory. Find it and find out. QOpen
08:00 - 22:00, Mon 08:00 - 21:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 23:00.
TA6UGSW
Cafe Botanica C-3, ul. Bracka 9, tel. (+48) 530
71 74 38, www.cafebotanica.pl. This one has it all
from beer to coffee and chocolate; breakfast platters
to toasted sandwiches, salads and wraps. As the name
implies, Botanica is full of plants and a recent expansion
includes even more seating in a glorious upstairs glassceilinged
orangery. Ladies love it, making this an ideal
place for a cheap casual lunch date, though the playlist of
Jack Johnson and Macy Gray may make the skin crawl of
anyone who didn’t come to Kraków to relax in what feels
a bit like an American liberal arts college cafe. QOpen
08:30 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 08:30 - 24:00, Sun 10:00 - 23:00.
PA6UXSW
Camelot C-3, ul. Św. Tomasza 17, tel. (+48) 12
421 01 23. Let a blissful day unravel before you amid
a collection of tiny tables, squeaking floorboards and
watercolors pinned to white walls. Owlish academics
mingle with local stage celebrities and braying tourists
inside what is no less than a city institution. An
extensive menu features all-day breakfast, salads,
pastas, desserts and plenty of warm local liquors,
and the elevated seat in the window may be the most
romantic spot in town. A cultural institution, descend to
the cellar on Fridays at 20:00 to experience the delightfully
strange, often a tad corny, always endearing Loch
Camelot cabaret. Recommended all around. QOpen
09:00 - 24:00. T6EGSW
Charlotte. Chleb i Wino B-2, Pl. Szczepański 2,
tel. (+48) 600 80 78 80, www.bistrocharlotte.com.
Step into Charlotte and you might not be certain if you’ve
wandered into a Parisian back-street bistro or a preppy
fashion shoot. Here the clients are almost indistinguishable
from the staff as well-bred hipsters break bread
together at a central, communal table while their aproned
friends scurry up and down the stairs with rattling trays
full of homemade honey and jam jars. The menu is built
around the delicious bread and croissants baked on site
and includes French classics like Croque Madame and
creme brulee, gourmet cheese and meat platters - all
accompanied by great coffee or wine. The high ceilings
and wall-length windows give Charlotte an open, sociable
atmosphere, which either makes up for or explains the
often spotty service - we’ll let you decide. We only know
we’ll be happily returning. QOpen 07:00 - 23:45, Fri 07:00
- 00:45, Sat 09:00 - 00:45, Sun 09:00 - 21:45. (8-18zł).
TA6UGSW
Chocoffee B-3, ul. Wiślna 8, tel. (+48) 502 36 83
84, www.chocoffee.com. Building on the success of their
excellent Wrocław location, this half chocolate shop, half coffeehouse,
offers an assortment of to-die-for filled chocolates,
pralines and truffles, but it’s the coffee concoctions that keep
us coming back. Try a tantalising array of aromatic spiced
coffee-chocolate compositions and other liquid aphrodisiacs,
hot or cold, to go or to stay in the stylish smoke-free interior
piped with chill-out music. Recommended. QOpen 08:00 -
23:00. PTAGSW
Kraków In Your Pocket krakow.inyourpocket.com
Polish Desserts
Few things in life get a Pole more animated than a
good dessert. Ranging from doughnuts and pastries
to a plethora of cakes and tortes, many of which have
come to be associated with particular holidays, Polish
desserts are known for not being too sweet and for too
often incorporating marmalade, gelatine or alcohol (in our
opinion, anyway). The classic Polish desserts we list below
can be purchased in any ‘cukiernia’ (pastry shop) worth
its salt (or sugar, as the case may be) and many cafes.
Sernik
Polish for ‘cheesecake,’ sernik is one of the country’s most
popular desserts and you’ll have a hard time convincing
any Pole you’ve been to their country if you don’t try it.
Made with a sweet curd cheese (twaróg) and served
cold, there are plenty of variations, including those with
raisins, gelatine or chocolate sauce. Every Polish family
has a sernik specialist whose job it is to bring one of these
delicious cakes to holiday gatherings and get-togethers.
Szarlotka
Any Pole will tell you that the best apples in the world
come from Poland, and Polish apple pie is a standard
served almost everywhere you go. Made with shortbread,
the apples are typically tart and flavoured with cinnamon
and cloves.
Kremówka
A cream pie made of two thin layers of puff pastry filled
with vanilla custard cream and often topped with powdered
sugar. One of our favourite Polish treats, kremówka was
popularised across PL by the late Pope John Paul II, who
krakow.inyourpocket.com
Taste the best sweets in Poland.
Słodki Wawel
CAFÉS
Relax with a real hot chocolate in the shadow of Wawel Castle.
Kraków: Zamek Królewski - Wawel 9, 31-001 Kraków, tel. (12) 422 05 90, Open Mon-Sun 9.00-17.00
made the mistake of offhandedly commenting about
eating cream cakes once in his hometown of Wadowice,
thus creating a cottage industry in the small town 50km
southwest of Kraków almost overnight.
Pierniki
Polish gingerbread, or pierniki, comes in many varieties,
but the most famous is Toruński Piernik, which has been
produced in the northern town of Toruń since the Middle
Ages. Slightly soft, chewy and flavoured with honey,
cinnamon, ginger, cloves, cardamom, nutmeg, anise and
lavender, these small gingerbread cookies can be glazed
with sugar, covered in chocolate or filled with marmalade.
Pączki
A tradition since the 1700s, pączki are so popular they
even have their own holiday – Tłusty Czwartek (Fat
Thursday) – when everyone in PL fills their faces with these
dense deep-fried doughnuts. Typically filled with rose jam,
glazed with sugar and topped with candied orange peel,
pączki are similar to American jelly doughnuts, the main
difference being that Poland’s conservative tendencies
ensure there is only a drop of marmalade in the centre
somewhere, which an elaborate game could be made
around trying to find.
Makowiec
Traditionally eaten at Easter and Christmas, this poppy
seed dessert can be made as a cake, or as a bread loaf
with a dense swirl of slightly sweetened poppy seeds in
the centre. Sometimes alcohol is added to the filling, and
icing and orange zest often glaze the bread.
February - March 2013
65

66
CAFÉS
With the Kids
Cafe Culca D-7, ul. Mostowa 14, tel. (+48) 12 430 07
20, www.cafeculca.pl. Designed for kids, but catering to
overwhelmed parents at the same time, this large cafe is a
great place to take the little ones and let them wear themselves
out while you relax and recharge the parental batteries.
Full of wacky furnishings, bright colours and lots of toys,
Culca offers more than just a supervised play session for
your children - there’s also a proper food menu full of healthy,
seasonal fare for kids and adults alike, plus multivitamin fruit
shakes, gluten-free options and even special items for nursing
mums. Or say the heck with that and get yourself a welldeserved
beer or cocktail. The perfect pit stop for families,
check their website for regular children’s workshops as well.
QOpen 09:00 - 20:00. TAUGSW
Mamy Cafe C-2, ul. Sławkowska 20, tel. (+48) 12
422 06 65, www.mamycafe.pl. The name not only
refers to mothers, but literally translates to ‘we have a
cafe’ - exactly describing the spirit of this hidden city centre
sanctuary which goes out of its way to accommodate
parents with young children. The simple decor creates an
‘at-home’ atmosphere and helpful amenities include high
chairs, changing tables and privacy screens, plus diapers
and wet wipes behind the bar. Separate menus are tailored
not only to the taste of the little ones, but also for pregnant
mums and those with allergies. With plenty of toys for the
kids and wifi-enabled so you can combine business with
childcare (if you have to), there’s really nothing they haven’t
thought of to make the job of being a parent easier. Take
a break and take advantage. QOpen 11:00 - 20:00, Fri,
Sat, Sun 10:00 - 21:00. TAUGSW
Karma Coffee Roasters A-2, ul. Krupnicza 12, tel. (+48)
506 06 06 84. If you want to rate the best coffee in Kraków, you
can start and finish here in Karma. Fair trade from Union Coffee - a
small London roaster, connoisseurs will also note that Karma’s
coffee is prepared with one of the best espresso machines in the
world (Synesso, from Seattle, write it down). But this is hardly the
snobby or pricey realm of the Starbucks set. Karma caters to a
more modern, alternative crowd with a range of vegan and glutenfree
baked goods - tarts, cakes, cookies and more - made fresh
on site each day. Daily specials include delicious vegetarian soups,
stir-frys and curries that will make you feel great about what you’re
eating, as well as how little you’re paying for it. With a full breakfast
menu to complement their coffee, Karma is a wonderful place to
not just wake up, but become a bit more conscious. QOpen 08:00
- 20:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 19:00. TA6GSW
Noworolski C-3, Rynek Główny 1, tel. (+48) 12 422 47
71, www.noworolski.com.pl. Take a seat in this local classic
located inside the Cloth Hall and breathe the hundred-year of
Kraków’s highs and lows since it opened in 1910. Famous as
the place where Comrade Lenin would read the papers during
his visits, WWII occupation later saw Noworolski become the top
haunt of Nazi nabobs, before the family-owned business was
taken away by the communist authorities, only to be returned
in 1991. Things have changed little in terms of style and service
since then, making Noworolski a creaky throwback favoured
today by well-dressed locals in the autumn of their years, but the
exquisite art nouveau interiors by Józef Mehoffer are among the
most decadent in town and well worth a look. You’ll find cheaper
and better coffee in the city but it won’t be served to such an
atmospheric backdrop. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00. AXSW
Royal Art Cafe C-5, ul. Św. Gertrudy 26-29 (Royal
Hotel), tel. (+48) 12 618 40 41, www.royal.com.pl.
Located in one of our favourite Kraków hotels, Royal Art Cafe
is much more modern than the regal art nouveau hotel that
houses it, with sharp lighting and design and windows overlooking
the Planty. The latest presses are there to help you
start your day, plus widescreen TVs on which you can catch
some sports or world news in English. But Royal Art’s biggest
draw is clearly the long rack of fine whiskeys behind the bar
which are sure to smooth the wrinkles and loosen the collar
at the end of any day. QOpen 10:00 - 01:00. PAGSW
Słodki Wawel B-5, Wawel 9 (in the courtyard next to
Wawel Visitor Centre), tel. (+48) 12 422 05 90, www.
wawel.com.pl. As well it should be, the flagship sweets shop of
this well-known and well-loved local chocolatier and confectionery
is located in the courtyard of Wawel Castle itself. Featuring
a full cafe and splendid terrace in the spring and summer, no
ticket is required to enter and enjoy this historic brand which has
been satisfying sweet tooths since 1898. Stop in to pick up an
edible souvenir and try the popular local specialties Mieszanka
Krakowska, Kasztanki, Krówka, Malaga and more. Wawel
has shops nationwide, as well as three more in Kraków at Rynek
Główny 33 (C-3), ul. Kalwaryjska 19-21 (I-5) and ul. Wielopole 12
(D-4). QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. PAUGSW
Słodki Wierzynek C-3, Rynek Główny 15, tel. (+48)
12 424 96 00, www.wierzynek.pl. This classy cafe on the
ground floor of Kraków’s most famous dining destination is
everything you’d expect based on its unrivalled pedigree.
Enjoy gourmet coffee and chocolate concoctions in an elegant
setting of scarlet armchairs under an amazing ceiling
painted with cherubs riding mythological creatures. Delicious
gourmet cakes, candies, caramels, chocolates and other
indulgences are also available - all of which you can take
home with you in snazzy gift-boxes that make the perfect
gift for even the most discerning and aesthetically-obsessed
of sweet tooths. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. TAGSW
Kraków In Your Pocket krakow.inyourpocket.com
If you believe urban legend (like we do) Kraków has the highest
density of bars in the world. Simply hundreds of bars
can be found in cellars and courtyards stretching from the
Old Town to Kazimierz and beyond. Keeping them open, of
course, are the thousands of tourists that flock to Kraków
every year, and with higher tourism comes higher prices:
expect to pay 7-10zł (2-3 Euros) for a large beer. The opening
hours we list are flexible; basically if people are drinking,
the barman is pouring. Below is a list of recommendations
depending on what you’re looking for.
Bars & Pubs
Antycafe C-2, ul. Sławkowska 12, tel. 506 481 888,
www.antycafe.pl. As tempting as it would be to call Antycafe
a ‘hipster haven’, since mocking hipsters is more hip than being
one these days, we wouldn’t want to do this fine establishment
that disservice. Between the two full bars on opposite ends of
this 30m long ‘anti’-café, you’ll find candlelit nooks, eccentric
art, great music, and a very cool vibe indeed. True to its name,
the alternative atmosphere belies more of an edgy bar than
a quaint café, and with a great beer selection and one of the
least ostracising smoking sections in the Old Town, you’ve all
the more reason to occupy a table. If you can find a free one,
that is. QOpen 12:00 - 04:00. P6XW
Baroque C-2, ul. Św. Jana 16, tel. (+48) 12 422 01 06,
www.baroque.com.pl. Over several rooms of plush seating,
high fashion photographs, dangling chandeliers and a
spacious garden during the warmer part of the year, Baroque
is a sharp, modern space that mixes the new with the old.
Seductively attractive, its range of cocktails is consistently
among the best in the city. Choose from knock-out creations
like the Polish Spring Punch or put your head down and do
your best to rip through the 100-plus vodkas on the list. While
Kraków’s mojito love-affair continues unabated, Baroque’s
still looks the best and comes in positively huge portions.
After years of being a premier cocktail bar and restaurant,
they’ve gone and jumped into the dance scene, keeping the
signature Baroque style in the downstairs weekend club
space. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 04:00. Closed
Mon, Sun. PAXW
Beer Gallery - Luxury D-3, ul. Św. Tomasza 30, tel.
(+48) 601 40 88 70, www.beergallery.pl. If you aren’t yet
familiar with Belgian beer, hurry yourself to Beer Gallery Luxury
for an education. Specialising exclusively in Belgian imported
brands, the knowledgeable staff are ready to tell you all there
is to know about the 150 bottles in stock (also available to-go)
and the 8 types on draught, as well as letting you sample the
latter. Rather than price each label individually, Beer Gallery
offers every bottle at an average price of 12zł. Not only does
this make it easier, it’s also cheaper than you’ll find at the shop
and true connoisseurs may even recognise the opportunity to
game the system. While little more than a hole-in-the-wall, this
Belgian beer library with its encyclopaedic menu is the only
place of its kind in the country and a great place to try some
of the best beers in the world while duly impressing your date.
Also at ul. Dominikańska 3 (C-4) and ul. Warszauera 10 (E-6).
QOpen 12:00 - 02:00. PAUGBW
Bomba B-2, Pl. Szczepański 2/1, tel. (+48) 782 60
19 99. In almost no time at all, this small bar has managed
to establish itself as a cult hangout thanks to a simple
concept few places follow anymore: good music and good
people equals good times. Unpretentious with an interior of
unfinished wood, brick walls and a small upstairs balcony
level with a great view of Plac Szczepański, the solid gold
playlist rotates funk and soul, electro, dub-step, hip-hop and
pop. QOpen 10:00 - 02:00. A6EXW
krakow.inyourpocket.com
NIGHTLIFE
Nightlife at a Glance
ELITE: Those who want the sexiness of a stripclub,
without the laddish antics or dodginess, should try
Stalowe Magnolie or Burlesque - discerning clubs
that keep it classy while evoking sultry interwar ambience.
Modiva and Baroque are finalists for the ‘best
cocktails in Kraków’ debate, Baccarat and Russian
Enso are music clubs for the jet set, while Taawa is the
most upscale club in Kazimierz.
STUDENTS: Not your most discriminating demographic,
students will go anywhere there’s fun music and cheap
drinks - namely Gorączka, Ministerstwo, Społem or
the legendary Kitsch, while those with more intent to
impress head to Rdza, Frantic and Cien.
LADS: Pod Papugami and Irish M’Bassy - where
matches are on and the staff are used to boisterous
behaviour - welcome stag groups, as does Fashion
Time, a popular four floor clubbing complex with plenty of
options and opportunities for an epic night. Alternatively,
head to CK Browar for a rowdy beer hall that brews its
own, or sample upwards of 150 Polish and foreign ales
at House Of Beer.
COUPLES: Couples looking for some face time should go
tipple tasting in Beer Gallery - Luxury, snuggle in a cosy
corner of Święta Krowa, soak up the karma sutra ambience
of Budda Drink & Garden, converse by candlelight
in Mleczarnia or stay home and listen to Barry White.
ALTERNATIVE: Take your tight pants and non-prescription
specs to Miejsce or Bomba, your photography
portfolio to Pauza, your unfinished novel to Dym and your
self-destructive side to Klub Piękny Pies or Rozrywki 3.
Hot Beer?
There are a number of ways to survive the winter in
Poland, and we’ve tried them all, from dressing up
like an Eskimo to staying in bed and refusing to get
dressed at all. Of all the methods known, however,
none rewards as much as a pint of ‘grzane piwo’.
That’s hot beer in layman’s terms – essentially a
frothing hot pint spiced with artificial ginger syrup,
clove, cinnamon and other mulling spices. For some
an acquired taste, for others an early Christmas
present and others still an utter profanity, but an
invention necessary for everyone to try at least once.
There are a couple things to consider with regards
to hot beer: Firstly, it takes a while (5-10 minutes)
to properly heat the drink without exploding it, so
prepare to wait and be patient. Secondly there is a
tendency to immediately stab a straw into the glass
to mix the syrup at the bottom throughout the drink.
If the beverage is too hot this will result in it erupting
all over you. This common rookie mistake is an event
many twisted bartenders wait for with relish; you can
avoid it by simply letting your drink cool slightly and
gingerly testing its reaction to the straw. [We’re telling
you this to save you some face. Ours has had egg on it
too many times.] Similarly popular is ‘grzane wino’ – or
mulled wine – as you’ll notice by the barrel-shaped
stands selling cups of it on the market square. The
popular regional brand is Grzaniec Galicyjski and if you
enjoy drinking it in public so much, you’ll be delighted
to discover you can buy it in almost any alcohol shop
and easily prepare it at home as well.
February - March 2013
67

68 NIGHTLIFE NIGHTLIFE 69
EVERY MOMENT SHOULD HAVE ITS OWN MENU...
Baroque Restaurant & Cocktail Bar & Club
ul. Św. Jana 16, Kraków, tel. +48 12 422 01 06, rezerwacje@baroque.com.pl, www.baroque.com.pl
Budda Drink & Garden C-3, Rynek Główny 6, tel.
(+48) 12 421 65 22, www.budda-drink.com.pl. To get
the most out of Budda you need to visit in summer when
adjoining courtyard gardens transform into an al fresco
dance arena. On those chillier evenings make for one of
the two the warmly lit crimson interiors on either end of
the courtyard, the one on the right being the better of the
two. Here, drinkers down potent concoctions under the
conceited gaze of gold buddhas illuminated by hundreds
of flickering candles. Check out the unique mezzanine
level for something a little different, while couples suffering
a lull in their relationship should choose a cozy
nook and study the wall paintings of randy Indian figures
entwined in Kama Sutra embraces. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00.
PA6UXW
Bull Pub D-3, ul. Mikołajska 2, tel. (+48) 12 423 11 68,
www.bullpub.pl. What the Great British Pub once looked
like before the brewing industry was mugged by alcopops,
Wetherspoons and silly smoking laws. Squint and you could
be in the Rovers Return, what with all the glass sconces,
booth seating and pictures of fox hunting toffs. The Brit
associations and centre stage location mean a fair chance
of running into groups of lads freshly dispatched from an
EasyJet, thus disrupting the armchair atmosphere which
would otherwise be ideal for an after-work beer and maybe
a nap. QOpen 09:00 - 02:00. A6XW
Bunkier Cafe (Bunker) B-2, Pl. Szczepański 3a,
tel. (+48) 12 431 05 85, www.bunkiercafe.pl. Attached
to Kraków’s best contemporary art gallery, this
enclosed terrace bar/cafe on the Planty resembles a
spacious greenhouse wherein the plants have been replaced
with couples, happy hour colleagues and English
teachers giving private lessons around wobbly tables
Must be at least 25 years old with ID to enter.
and chairs. A year-round pleasure (thanks to plenty of
heaters), Bunkier’s inviting atmosphere is marred only by
the slow to completely negligible table service that can’t
be circumnavigated. QOpen 09:00 - 01:00, Thu, Fri, Sat
09:00 - 02:00. AUXW
Cheers Pub C-4, ul. Grodzka 31, tel. (+48) 783 87
25 87, www.cheers-pub.com. Obscurely tucked in a
courtyard off Grodzka Street, this Scottish- and Polish-owned
cellar-dweller retains its basic medieval interior with sturdy
wooden furnishings, a heavy iron chandelier and raw rock
walls. Unfortunately the sight of the Scottish flag doesn’t
necessarily portend good ale behind the bar (Heineken,
mate?), but there is a tube above it streaming Sky Sports.
Developing a strong following of foreigners and their Polish
partners, an expat club meets Tuesdays and Fridays at 20:00
and live music is likely on the small stage Saturday nights.
QOpen 17:00 - 24:00, Fri 17:00 - 02:00, Sat 15:00 - 02:00,
Sun 15:00 - 24:00. PXW
C.K. Browar B-2, ul. Podwale 6-7, tel. (+48) 12 429 25
05, www.ckbrowar.krakow.pl. On top of being Kraków’s
primary microbrewery (serving rather palatable Light, Ginger,
Dunkel and Weizen ales), CK Browar has plenty more going
for it including the handsome beer hall interior with copper
brewing vats, tiffany-style lamps and long wooden tables fit
for a viking feast with a fist of grog. Redoubling the barbarian
potential is the possibility of getting a five litre beer tower
with its own tap fitted to your table. Damn good times, the
downside being that what could be an elegant, even sophisticated,
beer cellar has become a rather loutish lads’
bar noted for bad music, bad service and occasionally bad
company - namely intoxicated, unpredictable and sometimes
aggressive local boys. Shame indeed. QOpen 09:00 - 01:00,
Thu 09:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 03:00. PAXW
The Best
Guinness
in Poland!!!
Awarded fi rst place for quality in
Poland’s Guinness Competition.
ul. Św. Jana 18, Tel. 012 422 61 01, 012 422 82 99, www.podpapugami.krakow.pl
Open: Mon – Sun 12.00 – Till the last guest
Dym (Smoke) C-2, ul. Św. Tomasza 13, tel. (+48) 12
429 66 61. Lost in the sauce somewhere between cafe and
bar, Dym is a long, dark drink-den, the dull design of which
is made up for by the character of the clientele: primarily
self-proclaimed artists and intellectuals that blow a lot of
smoke. How many advances and grants have been blown
here it’s hard to know, but spend a few nights at Dym and
you’re guaranteed to become a character in at least two
unfinished novels. Yes, we were all so full of promise back
then; back before all our ambition and drive went into drink,
we went broke and ended up scribbling for this rag... Ah, glory
days. QOpen 09:30 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 09:30 - 02:00. UGW
Hard Rock Cafe C-3, Pl. Mariacki 9, tel. (+48) 12 429
11 55, www.hardrock.com/krakow. Sit back enjoying your
cocktail or beer overlooking the market square and Cloth Hall
from Hard Rock’s split level glass bar. The chaps here know how
to make that drink and the smiling faces can sometimes be all
you need after a long day facing stern museum curators. Not the
cheapest place in town, but one of comfort for many. QOpen
10:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 02:00. PAUEGW
House Of Beer D-3, ul. Św. Tomasza 35 (entrance ul.
Krzyża 13), tel. (+48) 794 22 21 36, www.houseofbeerkrakow.com.
House of Beer may be the best of the bars
improving the beer culture of Poland’s drinking capital, with
over 200 bottles and eight draught beers on hand in this
high ceilinged pub full of dark wooden furnishings and large
leather sofas. Bottles can be a bit pricey, but the local Dragon
(Smok) on draught for 8zł is a steal. QOpen 14:00 - 01:00,
Fri, Sat 14:00 - 02:00. PAGW
Irish Mbassy C-3, ul. Stolarska 3, tel. (+48) 12 431 02
21, www.irishmbassy.com. Cheekily stationed in the midst
of Kraków’s embassy row, the massive Irish MBassy is a popu-
Irish Pub
Certified quality Guinness,
a wide range of whiskey,
live Irish music and live
sports on a big screen in
a great atmosphere in one
of Krakow’s oldest and
biggest pubs.
(All matches shown)
lar place for weekenders and expats to get their passports
punched and forget where they are. Numerous TV screens
beam down live sports over three stories of original brick and
gothic details, punctuated by sponsorship signage, sports
and Irish memorabilia. Absolute madness during matches, the
doe-eyed staff do well to keep track of the orders fired at them,
while a decent line of pub grub - burgers and baguettes - makes
this a one stop solution for a long night. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00,
Fri, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 02:00. PAEXW
Movida Coctail Bar D-3, ul. Mikołajska 9, tel. (+48)
12 429 45 97, www.movida-bar.pl. After the break-up
of the ownership team, Paparazzi has changed its name
to Movida, but kept the spirit and identity of the place
basically intact. A long, narrow space plastered with candid
pics of celebs practicing their pout, Paparazzi’s cocktail list
is second to none and this remains first choice for anyone
looking to clinch deals over invigorating concoctions fixed by
a team of specialists. Two TVs playing sports and Guinness
in the fridge add to the overall appeal of this celebration of
celebrity. QOpen 13:00 - 01:00, Sat, Sun 16:00 - 01:00.
PAUXW
Pauza C-2, ul. Floriańska 18 (1st floor), tel. (+48) 12
422 48 66, www.pauza.pl. One of the trendiest drinking
dens in the Old Town, head to this unmarked first floor bar
to feel like you’re ‘in the know.’ Full of stylish haircuts and
sexy dresses, Pauza twins as a photography gallery with
perfectly illuminated high-quality exhibitions, making the
hipsters feel justifiably art-smart. Furnishings are modern
with low loveseats and stools and some enviable tables in
the windows overlooking Floriańska. Despite an atrocious
queue for the toilet and typically trendy house music, this
is one of the best hangout spots in the Old Town. QOpen
10:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. AXW
Kraków In Your Pocket krakow.inyourpocket.com
krakow.inyourpocket.com
February - March 2013

70 NIGHTLIFE
Polish Vodka
Proven masters of make-do with the potato as their
primary resource, the Poles have been producing and
drinking vodka since the early Middle Ages, distilling
their skill into some of the best vodka blends available
in the world, many of which date back centuries. The
two most highly regarded clear Polish vodka brands
must be Belvedere and Chopin, both of which you’ll find
in any alcohol shop. But you won’t find many tipplers
throwing them back at the bar. While clear vodkas are
generally reserved for giving away at weddings and mixing
in cocktails, the real fun of Polish vodka sampling is
the flavoured vodkas. Unlike beer with juice (regarded as
highly emasculating), flavoured vodkas are embraced by
both sexes and imbibed copiously.
Wiśniówka
Undoubtedly the most common flavoured vodka,
wiśniówka is a cheap, dangerously easy to drink,
cherry-flavoured variety. You’ll see students and
pensioners alike buying trays of it at the bar, as well
as toothless tramps sharing a bottle in corners of
tenement courtyards. A splash of grapefruit juice is
often added to cut the sweetness of this bright red
monogamy cure.
Żołądkowa Gorzka
Due to its very name, which translates to something like
‘Bitter Stomach Vodka,’ Żołądkowa Gorzka gives even the
most infirm of health an excuse to drink under the guise
of its medicinal properties. An aged, amber-coloured
vodka flavoured with herbs and spices, Żołądkowa has
a unique aroma and sweet spiced taste unlike anything
you’re likely to have tried before. Incredibly palatable, it’s
best enjoyed when sipped on ice.
Krupnik
Popular in Poland and Lithuania, Krupnik is a sweet vodka
made from honey and a multitude of herbs. Buy a bottle
for Mum – drinking vodka doesn’t get any easier than this.
In winter, hot krupnik is a popular personal defroster with
hot water, lemon and mulling spices added.
Żubrówka
One of Poland’s most popular overseas vodka exports,
Żubrówka has been produced in Eastern Poland since the
16th century. Flavoured with a type of grass specific to
the primeval Białowieża Forest that straddles the border
(a blade of which appears in each bottle), Żubrówka is
faint yellow in colour, with a mild fragrance of mown
hay and a subtle taste which has been described as
‘floral’ or having traces of almond or vanilla. Delightfully
smooth as it is on its own, Żubrówka is most commonly
combined with apple juice – a refreshing concoction
called a ‘tatanka.’
Goldwasser
A celebrated Gdańsk tradition since 1598, Goldwasser
is a unique alchemic elixir characterised by the 22 karat
gold flakes floating in it. One of the oldest liqueurs in
the world, Goldwasser’s secret recipe contains some
20 roots and herbs, combining to create a sweet, but
spicy flavour with touches of anise, pepper and mint.
While we thought turning the potato into vodka was an
example of creative ingenuity, we’re not sure what sort of
statement the practice of turning gold into vodka makes
about Polish culture...
Pod Papugami Irish Pub C-2, ul. Św. Jana 18, tel.
(+48) 12 422 61 01, www.podpapugami.krakow.pl. After
a couple of refurbs, Pod Papugami has doubled its capacity,
the upstairs has been beset by some fake brick finishing and
brightened a bit, and though it may have lost some character,
generally it now feels less like you’re doing your drinking inside
an ephysemic lung than previously (not a bad trade-off). Over
two levels full of wooden fittings, Irish bric-a-brac, a billiards
table, darts, plasma screens streaming sports, fresh baked
pizza and pints of Murphy’s, Guinness, Kilkenny and Stowford
Press cider, Pod Papugami has a friendly sociable atmosphere
beloved by lads and gentlemen alike. A great place to meet
people and find out just what exactly ‘the craic’ is, PP actually
captures everything we like about being in an Irish bar. QOpen
12:00 - 02:00. PAUX
QUBE A-5, ul. Powiśle 7 (Sheraton Kraków Hotel), tel.
(+48) 12 662 16 74, www.sheraton.com.pl/krakow.
Located in the Sheraton’s magnificent showpiece atrium,
QUBE is as sexy a spot as you’ll find for a drink in Kraków,
as you’ll notice from the glass ceiling many stories above
and the beautiful waitresses gliding around dispatching
cocktails fixed by the expert barstaff. QUBE’s real claim to
fame however is the 200 brands of vodka, served not on ice,
but in special shotglasses made of ice - a fantastic way to
introduce yourself to one of PL’s leading exports (after wives,
cheap labour, moustaches and machinery). QOpen 08:00 -
01:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 02:00. PAUGW
SomePlace Else A-5, ul. Powiśle 7 (Sheraton Kraków
Hotel), tel. (+48) 12 662 16 70, krakow.someplaceelse.pl.
Nine plasma screens for live sports, friendly staff
and a quality menu of bar eats that steers towards the
Tex-Mex end of the spectrum make SPE an easy place to
witness your ‘down time’ overpower whatever itinerary you
thought you had in Kraków. The list of world beers goes
above and beyond the usual choice of local liquids, and the
American interior is a combo of Yank road signs and pics of
rock’n’roll heroes. Though not open late, this low-key expat
and itinerants bar is still your best bet for convincing the
staff to help you watch your favourite MLB, NFL or NBA team
in action. QOpen 16:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 24:00.
PAUGW
Spazio D-3, ul. Szpitalna 9 (corner of ul. Szpitalna and
ul. św. Tomasza), tel. (+48) 12 422 29 48, www.spaziobar.pl.
This sleek coffee and cocktail bar is an ideal place
for an early evening/after work drink, thanks to an excellent
design and extensive list of alluring libations. Unwind in the
window or recline in the mezzanine with one of their creative
(albeit pricey) Prosecco or whiskey cocktails. A small selection
of sandwiches and sweets are also on hand in this
stylishly modern, subtly upscale lounge where every detail
has been carefully considered, from the bathroom doors to
the smiles on the bargirls. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat
10:00 - 03:00. AUEGW
Święta Krowa (The Holy Cow) C-2, ul. Floriańska
16, tel. (+48) 12 426 01 18. Perhaps the most enchanting
and laidback bar in the Old Town, Święta Krowa is an
intoxicating alchemic elixir of alcohol, incense, candlelight,
cloves and ambient eastern grooves. Hidden in a small,
soulful brick cellar off Floriańska, The Holy Cow inhabits two
oriental sitting rooms slung with prayer flags, low cushioned
stools and two lofted lounge areas. Amiable barmen conjure
a range of invigorating alcohol infusions and in winter this is
the perfect hideaway for a hot krupnik (and maybe an opium
nap). We miss the terrarium, but Święta Krowa is still a highly
recommended cult hangout. QOpen 16:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat
16:00 - 05:00. XW
Kraków In Your Pocket krakow.inyourpocket.com
Let us invite you
The casual fun style sports bar offers 9 plasma screens featuring the most
exciting sport events. The unique atmosphere and delicious
tex-mex cuisine, scrummy cocktails, drinks and professional staff make
SomePlace Else a perfect place to relax and enjoy time with your family,
friends, business partners and sport fun.
Let us invite you for a Journey through world stadiums, courses
and halls because life is better when shared.
SHERATON.COM/KRAKOW
SHERATON KRAKOW HOTEL
ul. Powiśle 7
31-101 Kraków
t — +48 12 662 1670

72 NIGHTLIFE NIGHTLIFE 73
Late Night Eats
When it comes to late night street food, Kraków has
you covered. Though you’ll find kebab stands all over
popular nightlife thoroughfares like ul. Floriańska
and ul. Szewska in the Old Town, the best of them
is Pod Osłoną Nieba at the corner of Plac Wszytkich
Świętych and ul. Grodzka (C-4); though with the low
quality of Cracovian kebabs, that’s not saying much.
Your options are actually better than that, from all
night pierogi shops to the 24hr vodka and herring
bars that have sprung up all over town (see Zakąski
Przekąski). Perhaps Poland’s most popular street
food is the ‘zapiekanka’ (see Cracovian Cooking
box for more) and the best place to get one is out of
one of the hatches of the Plac Nowy roundhouse
(D-6) which generally stay open until at least 02:00.
Required eating by any visitor, the only late night food
spot more legendary is the Kielbaski z Niebieskiej
Nyski sidewalk sausage stand. For more on Kraków’s
best late night eats, see below:
Gospoda Koko B-3, ul. Gołębia 8, tel. (+48) 12
430 21 35, www.gospodakoko.pl. The real virtue of
Koko is revealed at 2:00 in the morning when you want
a civilised sit down meal without the company of tzatziki
dribbling drunks. Serving generous portions of stodgy
Polish classics like pierogi and fried cutlets for the same
price as a kebab deep into drinking hours, this is a handy
alternative for anyone looking to fortify their stomach
without making a mess of their shirtfront. Formerly
stuffed into an obscure back corner, Koko’s popularity
has brought about the opening of a second street-side
dining room which significantly outclasses the original
space in terms of rustic charm. QOpen 08:00 - 03:00.
PAUXSW
Kielbaski z Niebieskiej Nyski E-4, ul. Grzegórzecka
(Hala Targowa). This legendary sidewalk
sausage stand has been a Cracovian street food
institution for the last twenty years. Here two old
boys in white smocks set up shop outside their blue
Nyska (a Soviet model van) every evening except
Sundays to grill kiełbasa sausages over a wood
fired stove for the hungry, drunken masses. For
8zł you get a delicious sausage, slightly stale roll,
ketchup, mustard and an unforgettable experience.
Don’t miss it if you’re in the neighbourhood. QOpen
20:00 - 03:00. Closed Sun.
Scandale Royal B-2, Pl. Szczepański 2, tel. (+48)
12 422 13 33, www.scandale.pl. This sexy lounge
and bistro has its own special late night menu served
from 22:00 until close, comprised of tasty tapas dishes.
Choose from exotic and elegant finger foods like bruschetta,
tuna empanadillas, Black Tiger prawns with garlic,
meat balls and a lot more. QOpen 07:30 - 24:00, Fri, Sat
07:30 - 02:00. (8-23zł). PAUXSW
Zapiecek Ekspres C-2, ul. Sławkowska 32, tel.
(+48) 12 422 74 95, www.zapiecek.eu. Join legions
of happy locals tucking into the legendary pierogi served
with no fuss, no formality by an unsmiling lady from behind
a counter. It is a long way from fine dining but for a
quintessential Kraków experience there are few better
places to come. Now open all night, it’s cheaper than a
kebab and a much better value when everything else is
closed. Q Open 24 hrs. (9-14zł). GS
Clubs
With roughly 120,000 students and a growing tourist
industry egging it on, Kraków’s club scene continues to
expand beyond reason, with each successive offing trying to
out-swank its predecessor. The main hedonist high streets
are Floriańska (C-2/3) and Szewska (B-3) where narry a
medieval cellar will be left unthronged by sexed-up students
on a Friday or Saturday night. Don’t be surprised to encounter
weekend cover charges ranging anywhere from 5-20zł at
most venues, and don’t expect to find toilet paper in any of
them after 22:00. Clubs in the Kazimierz district appear in
their own section.
Baccarat C-3, ul. Stolarska 13, tel. (+48) 695 11 67
60, www.baccaratclub.pl. Walk beyond the velvet rope
of Baccarat and you notice one thing immediately: a lot of
money has been spent on making this arguably the most
stylish and extravagant music club in Kraków. Covered in
plush upholstery and full of fine touches including every
elegant chandelier and lamp, the giant mirrorball DJ station,
and even a room with a dance-pole and wall-size mirror that
can be coyly curtained off, Baccarat clearly raises the bar
on Kraków’s nightlife scene. Though they’ve since added a
smoking room, this swanky swish tank was the first to go
completely non-smoking in the days of the dingy Kraków
cellar club, which might explain why it still looks as great as
ever. Expect to pay a small cover after 23:00. Q Open Thu,
Fri, Sat only 20:00 - 04:00. PAXW
Baroque C-2, ul. Św. Jana 16, tel. (+48) 12 422 01 06,
www.baroque.com.pl. The addition of this upscale cellar
club to one of the Old Town’s top pre-party destinations will
save lucky Lotharios the legwork of looking for your dancefloor
larks elsewhere, and the incomparable drinks from
the upstairs cocktail bar send plenty of tipsy vixens spilling
straight down into this sultry spider-web. Covering great food,
vodka, cocktails, a summer garden and DJ parties, Baroque
is one of the most complete venues in town and almost
unmissable for anyone who views modernity as maturity and
sexiness as sophistication. QOpen 21:00 - 03:00. Closed
Mon, Tue, Wed, Sun. PAXW
base music club B-3, ul. Św. Anny 6 (entrance from
ul. Jagiellońska), tel. (+48) 883 93 00 03, www.
baseclub.pl. Long gone, it would seem, are the days when
you’d just throw some chairs in a basement, some beer in
a fridge and call it a club. Base continues Kraków’s current
cash-on-the-cuff club trend by pimping a spectacular 400
square metres of cellar space into another posh pleasure
den, this one directly across from the ancient attic where
Copernicus about-faced the field of astronomy almost
500 years ago. Full of fluctuating colours, padded bricks
and reflective floors, Base features four distinctive bars
in four aesthetic styles, two air-conditioned dance floors
where DJs slice and splice the latest sounds, and the
obligatory VIP section occupying the ground floor. QOpen
22:00 - 06:00, Wed, Thu 22:00 - 03:00. Closed Mon, Tue,
Sun. PAXW
Burlesque C-3, Rynek Główny 42/ul. Św. Jana 1
(The Bonerowski Palace), tel. (+48) 694 44 01 90,
www.burlesqueclub.eu. Located in the cellars of the
market square’s 16th century Bonerowski Palace, the
main draw of this intimate dance club with silk-draped
ceilings innovatively strung with illuminated strands are
the cheeky burlesque performances that take place Friday
and Saturday after midnight, when the club’s resident
dancers take to the elevated stage in skimpy 1930s
cabaret attire and tease the howling crowds with dance
routines that stop short of stripping, but certainly leave
little to the imagination. It’s an intimate experience and
one that carefully treads a line of being just classy enough
to bring the wife to. Despite the face police at the door,
once you’re downstairs it’s less intimidating than you’d
expect with fun music and an atmosphere that isn’t too
snobby for students or too grubby for gentiles. Actually,
it’s a hell of a good time. Tables are limited, so reservations
would be wise. QOpen 20:00 - 04:00. Closed Mon,
Sun. PAEXW
Cień (Shadow) C-2, ul. Św. Jana 15, tel. (+48) 12
422 21 77, www.cienklub.com. One of Kraków’s best
regarded clubs for several years running, Cień is a wet
dream for foreign lads weaned on commercial house music
and enjoying favourable exchange rates while being fawned
over by bombshell blondes who make a sport of their sex
appeal. It may be all smoke, mirrors and false phone numbers
under the interrogation lamp of the dawn, but witness
yourself scrambling back for more. More posturing than truly
exclusive, as long as you’ve made the effort to look the part
and can stand up straight, your impatience with the door
queue is probably the most likely thing to keep you out of
Cień’s medieval cellars. QOpen 22:00 - 06:00. Closed Mon,
Tue, Sun. PAXW
Diva Music Gallery C-3, ul. Św. Tomasza 20, tel.
(+48) 12 429 20 66, www.divaclub.pl. A young fashionista’s
idea of paradise, Diva unfolds over two levels: the sexy
cellar club full of disco balls and laser beams, leather divans
and scantily-clad sirens beyond the red velvet rope, and the
new ground floor cocktail lounge for those who don’t make
it past the pretentious face control. The former makes for a
fun place to mingle with coquettish calendar girls between
pretending to enjoy dancing to soulless electro music, while
the latter is a better daytime destination for being seen
with an expensive cocktail before swanking off to your own
self-image in one of the many mirrors suspended on the
walls. On weekends prepare to dispense some cash to get
downstairs. QOpen 12:00 - 05:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 06:00.
PAUEXW
Fashion Time A-5, ul. Kościuszki 3, tel. (+48) 725
70 02 15, www.krakow.fashiontime.pl. With four floors
of sleek black walls and plush surfaces, Fashion Time lives
up to the hype of being Kraków’s largest club by having a
full house, despite the hassle it is to get in. With plenty of
fine touches, including enormous chandeliers, Renaissance
reproduction wallpaper and a cascading water wall behind
the ground floor bar, Fashion Time looks the part and plays
it well with the sheer volume of people diluting any inclinations
towards snobbery; in fact you’d be wise to reserve a
table. The music is hardly groundbreaking, but you have
plenty of dance-floors with different music to choose from;
ascend to the top smoking level to watch on screen what’s
happening on each of them. Q Open Fri, Sat only 21:00 -
04:00. PAXW
Frantic C-3, ul. Szewska 5, tel. (+48) 12 423 04 83,
www.frantic.pl. Dance alongside hourglass figures in what
asserts itself as one of Kraków’s best clubs/meat markets.
The design is your typical Cracovian cellar contrast of rough
exposed rock, modern-minimal decor and illuminated boxes,
but the soundsystem lures some of the best DJs around to
put together a regular programme of top parties for Polish
pussycats and their savvy suitors. A feast of flesh and fast
times for those with well-rehearsed chat-up lines eager to
jump inside the cat’s pajamas. QOpen 22:00 - 03:00, Fri
22:50 - 03:00, Sat 22:30 - 03:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Sun.
PAXW
Zakąski Przekąski
Known as ‘Zakąski Przekąski’ (literally ‘Appetisers &
Snacks’), or ‘Polish Tapas’ as it’s been dubbed by some,
these 24 hour budget snack bars have popped up like
weasels all over Kraków (and the entire country for that
matter), cashing in on communist nostalgia and the appeal
of low prices as everything else is getting more expensive.
The Zakąski Przekąski formula includes a small selection
of simple, local appetisers typically served cold and priced
at 8zł, with drinks (coffee, vodka, beer, wine) at a fixed rate
of 4zł. Familiar as the bar snacks of the lean communist
years, the menu reads like a list of correct answers to the
Jeopardy question ‘Foods that follow vodka’ and typically
includes śledz (pickled herring in oil), galaretka (pig trotters
in jelly), kiełbasa (sausage), pierogi (you know what
those are), pickles and tartare. Much like a milk bar with
a liquor license, Zakąski Przekąski offer budget food and
drink late night and are a great place to meet the city’s
strangest characters. We list the best below:
Ambasada Śledzia C-3, ul. Stolarska 8/10, tel. (+48)
662 56 94 60. There’s a vodka and śledź bar on seemingly
every corner in Kraków these days, and we’re gonna go ahead
and blame Ambasada Śledzia (The Herring Embassy) for this
fishy fad. They were first, and if we’re judging by food, they’re
also the best. In case you’re wondering, pickled herring (śledź)
is a ‘delicacy’ in these parts in the same way that vodka is
local parlance for ‘medicine’. The two go great together (draw
your own conclusions about that) and for the uninitiated
palate we recommend Ambasada’s ‘śledzie w śmietanie’
as an introduction. For 8zł it’s a cheap fling with foreign food
culture, and you can get any drink in the place to wash it down
for 4zł. The pauper-pleasing prices and dive bar interior of
graffiti scribbles make this a hipster haven - one that stays
crammed with clients long into morning, and is evidently
well worth imitating. There’s also a tiny second location in
Kazimierz at (D-6) ul. Bożego Ciała 11 (open 09:00 - 02:00,
Fri 09:00 - 07:00, Sat 08:00 - 07:00, Sun 08:00 - 02:00.)
QOpen 08:00 - 06:00, Fri 08:00 - 07:00, Sat 09:00 - 07:00,
Sun 09:00 - 06:00. UGBW
BaniaLuka B-2, Pl. Szczepański 6, tel. (+48) 790
77 06 48. For those nights when you simply refuse to let
the party end, despite powerful objections from your liver,
wallet and better sense, BaniaLuka is there for you. Open
24 hours, this rowdy bar has proven very popular with the
young folks, who don’t seem to care that the cheap beer
and booze (4zł) comes in smaller glasses (.4l of beer, 40ml
of vodka), and have decided that eating questionable 8zł
soviet-inspired vodka snacks is now the height of fashion.
Though BaniaLuka is on par with the best, you’ll find similar
establishments on almost every square in Kraków, so count
out your złoty in increments of four and treat yourself to an
early morning vodka crawl. Q Open 24hrs. PAUGW
Pijalnia Wódki i Piwa C-3, ul. Św. Jana 3-5 (entrance
from ul. Św. Tomasza), tel. (+48) 12 422 80 75. Wellpositioned
for popularity on Doubting Thomas Lane, Pijalnia’s
around the clock crowds make it hard to miss. Flooded inside
and out with students and street urchins, Pijalnia seems to
be at the forefront of this tried and trendy formula: offer 4zł
drinks and a small 8zł menu of traditional vodka and beer
snacks in dingy environs that conjure communist nostalgia
while simultaneously being a subtle backlash against the
increasing cost and ostentation of the city’s nightlife. Did we
get that right? Essentially the anti-cocktail lounge, Pijalnia’s
faithful have us in the fold for being one of the city’s most fun
destinations any time of day or night, and for making vodka
blindness cool again. Finally. Q Open 24hrs. GW
Kraków In Your Pocket krakow.inyourpocket.com
krakow.inyourpocket.com
February - March 2013

74 NIGHTLIFE NIGHTLIFE 75
Live Music
Despite its status as Poland’s ‘cultural capital’,
Kraków is routinely passed over by bands touring
Europe in favour of other Polish cities like Warsaw,
Wrocław and even Katowice (how embarrassing).
Though perplexing, this can be explained by a lack of
suitable venues with receptive management, plus a
city-wide arrogance and indifference towards inviting
or attracting talent to town. As a result, we can hardly
hail Kraków’s live music scene, however that doesn’t
mean there aren’t plenty of opportunities to experience
energetic local bands. Though proper concert
venues are few and far between, Kraków is still home
to dozens of great bars with bands frequently gracing
their small stages, and we’ve listed some of the surest
bets for catching a live band on any given night of the
week below. Kraków is also known for its jazz clubs
to which we’ve devoted a separate section. Check
our online Events Calendar to find out exactly what
concerts are playing while you’re in town.
KotKarola C-3, Rynek Główny 6, www.kotkarola.
pl. A confounding underground labyrinthe of poorly-lit
caverns populated with Polish vampires and misanthropes
just off the market square, Kot Karola is one
part goth, one part rocker and two parts drunk. Named
in honour of a famous local serial killer, breadcrumbs
won’t help you find your way out of this place, but you
probably won’t mind. The diverse music selection is
actually quite good and the club plays frequent host
to local and touring bands, as well as weekly jam sessions.
There’s a large smoking section and good beer,
so go ahead and lose yourself. QOpen 10:00 - 03:00.
PAEXW
Lizard King C-2, ul. Św. Tomasza 11a, tel. (+48)
601 69 20 32, www.lizardking-krakow.pl. Following
their success in other Polish cities, Lizard King
has brought music to the masses of Kraków, largely
otherwise deprived of a proper rock venue. Expect
paid entry to see their nightly noisy Polish rock acts,
plus expensive beer and cocktails that do nothing to
dent its popularity. An abundance of balconies and
tables leading to a large stage with an old-school LED
display pixelating behind it make up the head-banging
burnt sienna interior. Arrive early or reserve a table if
you have more than a passing interest in the evening’s
performance. QOpen 18:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 18:00 -
04:00. Concerts generally start at 20:00 or 21:00.
PAEXW
Stalowe Magnolie (Steel Magnolias) C-2,
ul. Św. Jana 15, tel. (+48) 12 422 84 72, www.
stalowemagnolie.com. Not dissimilar to a 1920s
Parisian brothel, the interior of this legendary venue is an
appealing blend of scarlet fabrics and deep sofas, with
jewel-encrusted pictureframes and strings of red fairy
lights hanging from wrought iron fixtures. Instruments
cling to the walls as a team of young waitresses in evening
dress bring premium-priced drinks to your table. The
live music is frequently outstanding, with velvet-voiced
chanteuses crooning into the night to the appreciative
applause of sharply attired couples and Rolexed businessmen.
A club card gets you into the VIP section with
its own DJ station and bar, where plush, silk-canopied
beds forbid bashful behavior. QOpen 19:00 - 02:00, Fri,
Sat 19:00 - 04:00. PAEX
Gorączka (Fever) B-3, ul. Szewska 7, tel. (+48)
12 421 92 61. Neatly located at the nexus of Kraków’s
clubbing corridor, Gorączka has always been the sloppy,
care-free, rebellious younger sister of the Szewska family,
ready to break a bottle, break into tears or take off with
the first guy who invites her to his place. Following a cheap
make-up job/renovation, the character of this place hasn’t
changed a bit. Dodge the queues next door, look nice and
win entrance to this fun meat-market full of eager ladies
making-out with their dance partners and sweaty dudes
with open shirts and wandering hands prowling to the
extremely loud, but proven dance hits that always keep
everyone’s flesh in friction. It’s a playful atmosphere and
you’re guaranteed to have a drink spilled on you, but nonetheless,
you’ve got every reason to feel bad about yourself
if you’re heading home alone. QOpen 17:00 - 04:00, Fri,
Sat 17:00 - 05:00. PAX
Kitsch ul. Grodzka 1 (first floor), www.kitsch.pl.
Reopening in a much classier building right off the market
square, the new Kitsch bears a striking resemblance
to its old self, which was a seedy all-night Cracovian
clubbing staple for years. Ascend the stairs and bear
right to find the familiar fur-trimmed bar backed by the
same kitsch accoutrements - lava lamp, stuffed tiger,
Santa Claus doll...and suddenly you’re having flashdance
flashbacks of all the mornings you spent straddling
and spilling beer on dressed-down, sexed-up, faceless
strangers on the dark dance floor before following
someone outside only to be lost and leaning forward the
whole walk home. Right? Never a cover and never an offnight,
Kitsch 2.0 now creates those beautiful memories
for a new crowd of shameless students and foreigners
every night - the main differences now being there’s no
pole on the dance floor (blasphemy), the music at times
seems more edgy than nostalgic, and across the hall is
a sitting room for smokers beneath a fur-framed photo
of kittens. Meow. QOpen 20:00 - 05:00, Thu, Fri, Sat
20:00 - 06:00. PAX
Klub Pauza C-2, ul. Floriańska 18 (underground),
tel. (+48) 12 422 48 66, www.klubpauza.pl. Enjoying
a sophisticated reputation thanks to legendary electro
nights, if that’s not your scene then Klub Pauza is great
for little more than asphyxiating to death. Cavernous,
subterranean drink-dwellings have become somewhat
unremarkable in Kraków, and though this one gets cred
for being just as difficult to find as the well-loved and
established first-floor bar that shares its name, it lacks
its predecessor’s creative spark (and effective ventilation).
Nonetheless it’s better than most bars elsewhere
in the world. QOpen 18:00 - 04:00. Closed Mon, Sun.
AEXW
Ministerstwo (The Ministry) C-3, ul. Szpitalna
1, tel. (+48) 12 421 12 17, www.klubministerstwo.
pl. A well-loved design in this subterranean sinners’
resort features lots of tile, gold brick, exposed rock,
three bars, two DJ stations and raised seating areas
to retreat from the dancefloor action where an eclectic
range of funk, old school and break beats are likely to
lure you. The smell of Tabasco from ‘mad dog’ shots
lingers at the bar where bronze ass-groping barstools
give you a free frisking. Always packed with students
and party people, Ministerstwo hosts the city’s best
midweek party on otherwise sleepy Tuesday nights and
the laidback ground-floor garden is one of the best kept
secrets in Kraków during the warmer months. QOpen
20:00 - 03:00, Fri 20:00 - 04:00, Sat 20:00 - 05:00.
Closed Sun. PAXW
Prozak 2.0 C-4, Pl. Dominikański 6. Having gone from
‘A-list’ to ‘a miss’ and then just completely missing, this wellknown
dance club has been renovated and re-launched itself
as ‘Prozak 2.0.’ Once a honey-trap for horny foreigners hoping
to ‘pull’ from the pool of bottle blondes happily putting drinks
on their tabs, Prozak has used its absence to get out of most
of the guidebooks (not this one), back into the good graces
of Kraków’s serious clubbing scene, and onto the cutting
edge with an impressive line-up of top DJs on weekends. The
interior, while spruced up a bit, hasn’t particularly changed
and remains an endless maze of underground rooms over
two levels with an incredible four bars and three dance-floors
on which to wild out. The crowd is mostly local, but just as fun,
flirty and foreign-friendly as ever with the party continuing
until the natural selection of those with blondes and those
with kebabs takes place in the blurry light of another dawn.
Q Open Thu, Fri, Sat only 21:00 - 03:00. PAXW
Rdza (Rust) C-3, ul. Bracka 3-5, tel. (+48) 600 39 55 41.
This cave-like basement with a long door queue rates as one of
the best clubs on call in Kraków. Look your best to make it past
face control then take your place on the dance floor alongside
delicious looking party creatures. Imported DJs and the cream
of Polish house music keep the party rocking into silly o’clock.
Q Open Thu, Fri, Sat only 21:00 - 05:00. PAXW
Rozrywki Trzy D-3, ul. Mikołajska 3. Essentially the
Piękny Pies of the Old Town, this somewhat inconspicuous
club near Mały Rynek draws a similarly diverse crowd of
curious tourists, eager students, aimless artists, hard-living
hipsters and acknowledged alcoholics. Split over two floors
with plenty of seating, smoking areas, a seasonal garden,
two bars, and a separate room that hosts frequent concerts
and DJ parties, Rozrywki 3 has wide appeal despite making
little effort. The furnishings attempt to be nothing more than
functional and there’s no face control - getting out is a lot
more difficult than getting in. One of the best places in the
Old Town if you’re looking for a long night full of spontaneous
dancing, but actually dislike nightclubs. QOpen 15:00
- 03:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 15:00 - 05:00. PEXW
Shakers Kraków B-3, ul. Szewska 5 (first floor), tel.
(+48) 660 11 40 34, www.where2b.org/Shakers. Actually
the name references the cocktail twisting barstaff, but
there are still plenty of shimmying posteriors in here. Shakers
is your classic Cracovian cocktail club: just snooty enough
for the concept to succeed, but not so up it’s own...shaker
that you won’t have a great time. DJ nights range from funk to
electro, with the action happening on an intimate dancefloor
between the bar and posh toilets. Cocktails range from 13-
30zł and though the list isn’t that creative, the bartenders
put on an impressive juggling show. Violet walls, black booths
with gaudy gold pillows that match the round gold tables and
the ubiquitous FTV make up the decor of this velvet rope
affair. QOpen 21:00 - 04:00, Mon, Tue, Sun 22:00 - 04:00.
Closed Wed. PAXW
Społem C-2, ul. Św. Tomasza 4, tel. (+48) 12 421 79
79, www.pubspolem.pl. Cheekily borrowing their name
from a cooperative network of shops prolific across Poland
during communist times (many of which are still open),
Społem’s underground cellars are cluttered with communistera
appliances and plastered with propaganda posters and
discontinued banknotes. The Soviet-nostalgia also applies
to the smokey atmosphere and the kitsch Polish pop/disco
parties held in the back room where the DJ station is cleverly
tucked into a Soviet-era truck and the dance floor packed with
fun-loving revelers young enough to enjoy the irony. I guess
you can count us among them, because we had a great time.
QOpen 18:00 - 04:00, Fri, Sat 18:00 - 05:00. PAXW
Jazz Clubs
Poland has a long jazz tradition and a strong crop of
home-grown jazz talents. In Kraków’s Old Town you’ll
find several popular jazz clubs that offer live music every
night, the best of which we list below. Kraków also hosts
several jazz festivals each year worth keeping an ear
out for including July’s ‘Jazz Summer Festival’ in Piwnica
Pod Baranami, October and November’s Autumn Jazz
Festival in Alchemia, and Europe’s oldest jazz festival:
the ‘All Souls Jazz Festival,’ which takes place in various
venues during the week before and after All Souls’ Day
(November 2nd).
Harris Piano Jazz Bar C-3, Rynek Główny 28, tel.
(+48) 12 421 57 41, www.harris.krakow.pl. This
downstairs jazz den is frequent host to outstanding
concerts, yet remains one of our least favourite venues
thanks to the small, cluttered seating arrangement: If
you haven’t reserved a table for the show, you’ll find
nowhere to sit and if you have reserved a chair, once
you take your seat you’ve no chance of getting up again.
Aggravating the dilemma are the girls on the market
square baiting more and more tourists past the ticket
vendors where they’ll then have no view of the action.
Though Harris can be hotter than a suana in summer,
it serves as a great winter bolthole best enjoyed when
musicians are at the bar, not on stage. QOpen 13:00
- 02:00. PAEGW
Piec’Art C-3, ul. Szewska 12, tel. (+48) 12 429
64 25, www.piecart.pl. The most attractive of
Kraków’s jazz dens, and as such a honey pot for pompous,
preened jazz know-it-alls. The vaulted interiors
make for great acoustics and frequently attract the
biggest names in the city during evening concerts, but
stand warned about the rife snobbism of punters and
staff alike. Live jazz concerts take place almost every
night but you should check their website for the exact
schedule. QOpen 16:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 16:00 - 03:00.
AEXW
The Piano Rouge C-3, Rynek Główny 46, tel.
(+48) 12 431 03 33, www.thepianorouge.com.
A pet project from the same team behind Stalowe
Magnolie, so expect much of the same. The interior
is a sensory delight washed in red, with plush
loveseats, scattered cushions, exotic lamps and
an outstanding bartop lined with piano keys. The
Parisian decadence is matched perfectly with live
piano and jazz performances. QOpen 10:00 - 01:00.
PAEG
U Muniaka C-3, ul. Floriańska 3, tel. (+48) 12
423 12 05, www.umuniaka.pl. Find one of Kraków’s
most legendary jazz clubs at the bottom of a flight of
stairs in a 14th-century cellar just seconds away from
St. Mary’s Cathedral. Unchanged in years, though the
names on stage may have fallen off the cutting edge
and it’s now mostly clogged with tourists, U Muniaka is
still a no bullshit jazz venue: pay the no bullshit waitress
(10-20zł depending on the night), take a seat and hear
some no bullshit jazz music. The acoustics are great,
the atmosphere intimate and attentive, and don’t be
surprised by unannounced appearances by legends like
Nigel Kennedy or Jarek Śmietana. Enthusiasts shouldn’t
be disappointed. Concerts nightly from 20:30. QOpen
18:30 - 02:00. EGW
Kraków In Your Pocket krakow.inyourpocket.com
krakow.inyourpocket.com
February - March 2013

76 KAZIMIERZ NIGHTLIFE
KAZIMIERZ NIGHTLIFE
When the steady revitalisation of Kraków’s former Jewish
district began back in the nineties, much of the investment
came from business owners able to purchase derelict buildings,
fill them with the curbside detritus pervading the area that
passes for furniture, add a shelf of liquers and presto! - open
a dark, dishevelled bar that perfectly captured the spirit of
the neighbourhood. The district quickly became synonymous
with cafes choked with smoke, candlelight, antiques and bohemians,
where under the stewardship of alcohol one might
be able to commune with a lost, forgotten world beneath the
haze. As the area’s clean-up, aided by the 1993 release of
Schindler’s List, brought more and more tourists to its historical
sights, Kazimierz went through a renaissance that saw it
quickly develop into the city’s hippest neighbourhood. Today
the area is chock-a-block with bars, clubs and restaurants,
even ousting the Old Town per square metre, and though a
trace of that original charisma vanishes with each new cocktail
bar opening, there is no better place in Kraków for a night out.
Kazimierz’s history makes it a requisite stop for tourists, but it
is the district’s nightlife that gives it its true vitality and much
of the mystique it still carries today.
Bars
Alchemia E-6, ul. Estery 5, tel. (+48) 12 421 22 00,
www.alchemia.com.pl. One of Kraków’s most evocative
bars, aptly-named Alchemia perfectly captures the sepia
candlelight, forgotten photographs and antique intrigues of
the former Jewish district. A dim bohemian cafe by day with
square-side outdoor tables, in the evenings Alchemia’s murky
mystique metamorphoses blood into beer for the ruddy
regulars and increasing number of tourists queuing before
the indifferent barstaff. The cellar, when it’s not being used
as a student disco, plays host to some of the best concerts
in town and is a prime participant in annual jazz and klezmer
festivals. Quintessential Kraków. QOpen 09:00 - 04:00, Mon
10:00 - 04:00, Sun 09:00 - 02:00. AEXW
Artefakt Cafe E-6, ul. Dajwór 3, tel. (+48) 535 799 666,
www.artefaktcafe.pl. A rightful successor to Ptasiek, Artefakt
takes this great space and expands on it physically - with a large
gallery space and separate garden (the entrance to which is a
couple doors down) - as well as culturally, with a wide range of
events and happenings that lure Kraków’s hipsters and artists
to its friendly confines. With two bars over two floors, the
upstairs is your quintessentially Kazimierz-cool hangout full of
odd furnishings and broken-spined books, while the downstairs
is plastered with theatre posters and features plenty of sofa
seating to observe what’s going down on stage. While it seems
there’s always something happening from concerts to chess
tournaments to comedy nights, even when there’s not, you’ve
still got a great atmosphere, good people and Czech beers on
draft. Recommended. QOpen 09:00 - 01:00. PAEGW
Cafe & Club Kalashnikov D-6, ul. Bożego Ciała 7,
tel. (+48) 728 87 10 71, www.cafekalashnikov.pl. On
first glance Kalashnikov looks like a slender, low-key cafe/
bar with limited seating, but further investigation reveals a
large year-round heated garden (shared with Trattoria Pistola)
connected to a downstairs club space open on weekends
and during events. Patronised by young alternative types
gathered around great beer while discovering Jimmy Cliff and
growing out their dreadlocks, the decor pays homage to its
namesake by cleverly photo-shopping the famous Russian
assault rifle into the sepia inter-war pinups on the walls,
with a few stray Soviet radios and gas-masked mannequins
laying around. The vibe is good and the Polish micro-brews
are great, making this a nice escape from the mania out on
the street. QOpen 12:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 04:00.
PAEGBW
Eszeweria D-6, ul. Józefa 9, tel. (+48) 517 49 19 27.
Perhaps embodying the spirit of Kazimierz more than any
bar not directly on Plac Nowy, Eszeweria’s old world antiques,
candelabras, frosty mirrors and murky, stencilled walls once
played host to some of the city’s most novel concerts, however
these days it’s more of a sleepy hang-out for hip nostalgics
with hand-rolled cigarettes dangling off their lips. Perfect for
ducking the tourists, having a quiet drink and catching the
vibe of the neighbourhood, the restroom may also be the
most romantic in town (no wonder there’s a queue) and they
have a sister venue across the street if you can’t find a table.
QOpen 12:00 - 02:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 05:00. XW
Le Scandale D-6, Pl. Nowy 9, tel. (+48) 12 430 68
55, www.lescandale.pl. Some of the best cocktails in
Kraków - test the Bahama Mama - served inside a series
of sleek rooms that throng with Bond girls and people who
look like they may well be minor celebs. Great fusion food,
an enormous garden (heated in winter) and sexy service,
this is modern Kraków at its strongest. You may not want
to leave. QOpen 08:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 03:00.
PAUEBXW
Les Couleurs D-6, ul. Estery 10, tel. (+48) 12 429 42
70. The quintessential thinking man’s cafe, Les Couleurs is a
special favourite among Kraków’s aging, dog-faced bohemians,
androgynous hipsters who wear oversized, non-prescription
glasses and anyone with a laptop. Plastered with classic French
posters and photos of Serge Gainsbourg, Kazimierz’s most
well-lit bar - and one of it’s most well-loved - is an anytime affair
where cigarettes, coffee, beer, bile and blood are as interchangable
and easily confused as work, pleasure and art; as day and
night. Recommended. QOpen 07:00 - 01:00, Fri 07:00 - 02:00,
Sat 08:00 - 02:00, Sun 08:00 - 24:00. UXW
Miejsce (The Place) D-6, ul. Estery 1, tel. (+48) 608
49 87 37, www.miejsce.com.pl. Opened by the owners
of a retro interior decor store by the same name, Miejsce
instantly established itself as Kraków’s hipster headquarters.
With half the patrons not hesitating to go behind the
bar themselves, here you’ve put yourself at the centre of a
closely-knit social scene, which a flapper dress or oversized
spectacles and tight pants will ease your integration into, if
that’s the goal. Decked out in a rainbow of chairs and lamps
of different shapes and sizes, offset by hastily painted white
walls and fantastic Polish film posters, Miejsce is effortlessly
original with a post-industrial artsy atmosphere that makes
a nice departure from the brooding, gloomy nostalgia of the
district’s other offerings. QOpen 10:00 - 02:00, Sat 10:00
- 04:00. AUGW
Migawka D-7, ul. Krakowska 27, tel. (+48) 512 33
12 45. With Lokator turning its focus solely to the publishing
business, the former manager’s mother has kept the
old space alive as Migawka, without having lost any of the
creative commitment or community that made the old place
special. A veritable independent culture centre for art, film
and music (check their facebook page for events), this laidback
smoker-friendly cafe/bar features red walls covered in
silk-screened prints by local artists, an upright piano and an
especially dark and mysterious beer garden (seasonal only).
Recommended. QOpen 10:00 - 01:00. EXW
Mleczarnia D-6, ul. Meiselsa 20, tel. (+48) 12 421 85
32, www.mle.pl. In summer this is the most glorious beer
garden in Kraków (closed from October), and right next to
an easily recognisable film set from Spielberg’s Schindler’s
List. If that parade gets rained on, or you find yourself here
during the dregs of winter, take solace in the cross-street
interior with its Old World atmosphere of candlelight, rickety
Kraków In Your Pocket krakow.inyourpocket.com
furniture, murky portraits, wooden floors and wide-open,
floor to ceiling street-side windows (not to mention the
enchanting bathroom). A great place for a romantic evening
conversation or afternoon coffee with a book, this is what
the whole of Kazimierz was once about: taking things as
they come. Recommended. QOpen 10:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat
10:00 - 04:00. AUGW
Moment E-6, ul. Estery 22, tel. (+48) 668 03 40 00,
www.momentcafe.pl. From locals to tourists, laptoppers
to hipsters, they take all kinds in Moment and seem to know
how to please them all. The interior has recently swapped
high, sturdy tables for low, loungy sofas with splashy fabrics,
and though it’s not really an improvement (in fact it now just
looks like an extension of Nova next door), the menu is better
than ever with bargain breakfasts, Italian appetisers, wraps,
salads and a range of larger entrees. Plenty of Plac Nowy
seating and evening drink specials are yet more reasons why
Moment has become a popular place to lose track of time,
not to mention the clutch of inaccurate vintage clocks lining
the walls, giving you a handy excuse for missing your next
day rendezvous with last night’s club conquest. Though this
would be an ideal place for it. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat
09:00 - 01:00. PAGW
Omerta D-6, ul. Warszauera 3 (entrance from ul.
Kupa), tel. (+48) 501 50 82 27, www.omerta.com.
pl. A cult hangout for local beer connoisseurs, Omerta has
expanded to include more tables, a second bar and even
more delicious drink options, making it harder than ever to
resist this sociable pub. Despite a somewhat tired mafia
theme replete with pics and quotes from The Godfather,
Omerta makes up for the lack of originality with one of the
best beer lists in town. The decisions begin with foreign or
domestic - the answer to which informs which bar to hedge up
to and receive an impressive menu of almost 50+ ales broken
down by category and even ranked for you; discover the joy
of ‘miodowe’ (honey beer) among others. Well-tempered
locals create an ace atmosphere and repeat visits are
inevitable and encouraged. QOpen 16:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat
16:00 - 01:00. UGW
Propaganda E-6, ul. Miodowa 20, tel. (+48) 600 33
19 22, www.pubpropaganda.pl. The interior is a dingy
museum of curbside communist scrap, from propaganda
posters and slashed portraits of Lenin to clunky cameras
and chunky radios. As rough around the edges as its clientele,
there’s no lack of menace to the mainstays at the bar and
you should probably put your galoshes on before entering the
toilets. The Polish punk, ska and metal on airplay represents
the taste of the sturdy, tattooed barstaff who won’t hesitate
to throw you across the room if provoked, yet we can’t help
but love this completely unpredictable hole-in-the-head dive
bar. QOpen 12:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 05:00. AXW
Singer D-6, ul. Izaaka 1, tel. (+48) 12 292 06 22. One
of the first bars in Kazimierz, Singer set the table for all that
was to come essentially inventing the evocative aesthetic
of cracked mirrors, dusky paintings, rickety antiques and
candlelight associated with the district today. Despite its
long tenure, lofty reputation and occassional intrusion of
tourists, today Singer still holds all the magic it did when
it first opened. A charismatic, even chimerical cafe by day,
Singer hits its stride around 3 am when tabletops turn into
dancefloors, the regulars abandon their drinks to dip and
spin each other to an energetic mix of gypsy, klezmer and
other ethnic music, the entire bar begins to feel like a ferris
wheel ready to fly off its axis and the boundaries of time are
obliterated. Yeah, we’ve had a few good ones here. QOpen
09:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 06:00. PAUXW
krakow.inyourpocket.com
Kazimierz Clubs
Klub Piękny Pies D-6, ul. Bożego Ciała 9. Yes,
the bitch is back and the Beautiful Dog has new digs
in Kazimierz - a boho district that better suits this
cult drink tank for unwashed artists, Dylan Thomas
impersonators, cougar vampires, counter-culture
cuties and hard-living hipsters. The layout of Piękny
Pies 3.0 is conscientiously similar to its last incarnation:
though a bit more cramped in the front, the back
room - with its second bar, stage, DJ station and dance
floor - is a big improvement over the old space, and
of course chain-smoking is encouraged. Some great
concerts and DJs on the weekends, while the same
great playlist of classic rock, indie hits, post-punk
and new wave keeps the dancing spontaneous rather
than obligatory throughout the week. One of the best
choices in Kraków if you want a late night but not a
nightclub, you can disregard the hours because this
place never closes. QOpen 12:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat
12:00 - 05:00. PEXW
Literki E-5, ul. Berka Joselewicza 21, www.
barliterki.pl. Down a strange alleyway (which also
leads to Goodbye Lenin Hostel) you’ll find this eclectic
club hidden in an old factory workshop. Embracing
the nature of the location, Literki is a huge industrial
space over two floors with a caged in balcony, a small
dance-floor/concert space with a thundering sound
system, dark lighting (indeed the brightest lights in the
club illuminate the drinks case) and some sharp iconic
graphic art on the walls depicting screws, gears and
other recognisable industrial garbage. With great Polish
and Czech microbrews behind the bar, this curious cult
venue is definitely worth the trek, but their events and
parties are so diverse we can’t tell you what to expect;
check their webpage to find out the flavour of the day.
QOpen 19:00 - 01:00, Thu 19:00 - 04:00, Fri, Sat
17:00 - 04:00. EXW
Pozytywka (The Music Box) D-6, ul. Bożego
Ciała 12, tel. (+48) 12 430 64 82, www.pozytywka.pl.
Completely un-Kazimierz in design, a stark,
modern, industrial motif comes paired with classic
dance music and red, blue and green disco lights.
The posh upstairs, with projections, exhibitions and
charisma, is a popular pre-club spot where you can
relax before gaining the liquid courage to head down
to the dancefloor and show off your moves in the large
basement. A fun, friendly and casual club, smoking is
permitted on weekends only, while on Weds and Sat
afternoons a fortune-teller does tarot readings (in
Polish only) upstairs. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat
10:00 - 04:00. PAW
Taawa D-6, ul. Estery 18, tel. (+48) 12 421 06
00, www.taawa.pl. Orange-skinned mini-skirted
solarium casualties will feel at home in this modern
discotheque that is clearly bringing a pretentious
clubbing vibe into this most unpretentious
of neighborhoods. Carpeting, illuminated glass
tables and purple leather furnishings round out
this refreshingly one room affair where long-legged
lookers dance to disappointingly mainstream
music. Looking to outclass Kraków’s other clubs,
Taawa succeeds easily, especially in design, with
strict facecheck and dress code. Q Open Fri, Sat
only 21:00 - 05:00. PAX
February - March 2013
77

78 HISTORY
OLD HISTORY TOWN
Kraków Historical Timeline
966: First written record of the city
990: Incorporated into the Piast dynasty
1000: Kraków bishopric established
1038: Kraków becomes the capital of Poland
1241: The beginning of 50 years of Mongol mayhem
1257: Kraków granted municipal rights
1320: Coronation of King Władysław the Short in Wawel
Cathedral, the first royal coronation in Kraków
1335: Kazimierz is founded on the eastern bank of the
Wisła River
1364: Jagiellonian University founded
1386: Kraków wedding of Polish Queen Jadwiga and
Lithuanian grand duke Jagiello creates the
Polish-Lithuanian Commonwealth
1596: Polish capital moved to Warsaw
1655: Swedish army captures and devastates the city
1683: King Jan III Sobieski leads his Polish army from
Kraków to Vienna, defeating the Turks and saving
Christian Europe
1734: Coronation of King August III, the final coronation
in Wawel Cathedral
1791: The May 3rd Constitution is passed; the First
Partition of Poland follows
1794: Prussian army captures Kraków after the
Kościuzko Uprising; city’s regalia stolen and lost
forever
1796: Kraków becomes part of Austrian Galicia after
the Third Partition of Poland
1918: Poland returns to the map of Europe
1939: Nazi occupation begins
1941: The Jewish Ghetto is established in the Podgórze
district
1942: Establishment of the Płaszów concentration
camp in Podgórze
1943: Liquidation of the Kraków Ghetto
1945: Kraków ‘liberated’ by the Soviet Army
1947: Construction begins on Nowa Huta
1978: Kraków’s Old Town, Wawel and Kazimierz added
to the UNESCO World Heritage List; Karol Wojtyła
inaugurated as Pope John Paul II
1981: Martial law declared in Poland
1983: Martial law lifted; Lech Wałęsa wins the Nobel
Peace Prize
1989: Party-free elections in Poland; Communist
regime crumbles
1999: Poland joins NATO
2000: Kraków is the first Polish city to named European
Capital of Culture
2002: 2.5 million people gather on the Błonia to participate
in a mass by Pope John Paul II
2004: Poland joins the European Union
2005: Pope John Paul II passes away plunging PL into
national mourning
2007: Kraków celebrates the 750 anniversary of
obtaining city rights and reaches its zenith as a
tourist destination
2010: President Lech Kaczyński and 95 other Polish
delegates die in a plane crash near Smolensk,
Russia; Kaczyński and his wife Maria are controversially
buried in the Royal Crypts at Wawel
2012: PL successfully hosts the Euro 2012 football
tournament
One of the oldest cities in Poland,
archaeological evidence proves that
there were settlements in the Kraków
area as early as the Palaeolithic period,
with stone tools found on Wawel
Hill dating back - way, way back - to
50,000BC. Legend attributes the
city’s founding to Krakus, the mythical
ruler who vanquished the Wawel
Dragon. The mysterious earthwork
Mounds named after Krakus and
his daughter Wanda, located in the
Podgórze and Nowa Huta districts
respectively, were probably built in the 7th century. However,
historians date the settlement of Kraków’s Old Town slightly
later in the 8th century, when it was the capital of a tribe of
pagan Slavs known as the ‘Vistulans’. By 966, the date of the
first written record of the city’s name, Kraków had already grown
into a busy commercial centre, thanks in part to the amber trade.
In the late 9th century the region was ruled by the Moravians,
passing shortly thereafter to Bohemian rule before being
incorporated into the principality of the Piast dynasty in the
990s, thus creating the Kingdom of Poland. The city developed
rapidly, acquiring its own bishopric in 1000, and in 1038
Kraków became the capital of Poland, with Wawel Royal Castle
becoming the residence of Polish kings. The 13th century was
marked by incessant Mongol invasions, the first occurring in
1241 when the city was almost entirely destroyed, but it was
dutifully rebuilt in time to be ravaged again in 1259 and 1287.
Following this last embarrassment, the city was surrounded
by 3 kilometres of defensive walls, towers and gates which
would be modernised over the next few centuries.
Kraków particularly flourished under the rule of Kazimierz
the Great (1333-1370), who expanded Wawel Castle and
established two new cities - Kleparz and Kazimierz - which
were closely connected with and would later be incorporated
into Kraków. A huge patron of the arts and sciences, in 1364
he founded the Kraków Academy, now known as Jagiellonian
University - one of the oldest institutions of higher learning in
Europe. Prosperity continued during the joint Polish-Lithuanian
Jagiello dynasty (1386-1572) as Kraków experienced its
‘golden age.’ Talented artists, humanists and scientists arrived
from Renaissance Italy and Germany to create impressive new
buildings, sculptures, frescos and other artworks and Wawel
Castle was turned into a pearl of Renaissance architecture.
However, after several centuries of roaring times the city’s
fortunes began to turn with the death of King Zygmunt II in
1572, who left no heir. With the throne passing to the Swedish
House of Vasa, Kraków’s importance began to decline,
resulting in Sigismund III’s decision to move the Polish capital
to Warsaw in 1596; however Kraków maintained its role as
the official site of royal coronations and burials.
The 17th century was marked by the pillaging of the Swedish
Invasion (1655) and a bout with the Black Death that claimed
20,000 residents. In the late 18th century, Poland passed
the world’s second democratic constitution (after the US)
on May 3, 1791, however only days later the country’s more
militarised and expansionist-minded neighbours Russia,
Prussia and Austria invaded and imposed the First Partition of
Poland (1772-73) on the weakened country; a second partition
transpired twenty years later. Kraków developed a reputation
as a bastion of rebellion against foreign invaders and in
1794, Polish freedom-fighter Tadeusz Kościuszko initiated his
famous Insurrection on Kraków’s market square; it eventually
failed and the Prussians soon stepped into the city to loot the
entire royal treasury. Poland was partitioned a third time (1795)
and Kraków became part of the Austrian province of Galicia.
Kraków In Your Pocket krakow.inyourpocket.com
Thanks to Napoleon, the city flirted with various forms
of semi-independence from 1809 to 1846 before being
absorbed back into Austria. Under Austrian occupation
Kraków’s fortified city walls were levelled - with the notable
exceptions of the section around the Floriańska Gate and
the Barbican - and the Planty park was created where they
once stood. Austrian rule was more lenient than that imposed
in the Russian and Prussian-ruled partitions and as a result
Kraków became a centre of Polish nationalism, culture and
art during the pre-war ‘fin de siecle’ era. The city was also
modernised during this time with running water, electricity
and the first electric streetcars (1901) all being installed
ahead of Warsaw in the first decade of the 20th century.
When the First World War broke out, Kraków was besieged
by Russian troops forcing many residents to flee the city.
Kraków became the first Polish city liberated from Austrian
rule on October 31st, 1918 when a planned revolt against
the Austrian garrison in Podgórze freed the city in advance
of the war’s end. The Treaty of Versailles would establish the
first sovereign Polish state in over a century, however twenty
years later in September 1939, Nazi German forces entered
Kraków, setting up command of their ‘General Government’
(the Nazi term for the occupied Polish lands slated to be purified
and incorporated into the Rhineland) in Wawel Castle. Over
150 professors from Jagiellonian University were rounded
up and shipped to concentration camps in what is known as
‘Sonderaktion Krakau.’ The Jewish population was ejected
from Kazimierz into a ghetto in the Podgórze district, with
the Liban and Płaszów work and concentration camps close
by. The Jewish ghetto, whose population fluctuated between
15,000 and 18,000, was liquidated in 1943 with its occupants
shot where they stood, sent to work in Płaszów or sent to their
deaths in nearby Auschwitz. Kraków was liberated on January
18th 1945, with the architectural fabric of the city miraculously
coming through the Soviet offensive almost completely intact.
Following WWII, the dubious process of ‘Sovietisation’ began,
and the district of Nowa Huta was built around the country’s
largest steel mill in the late 1940s in an attempt to weaken
Kraków’s intellectual and artistic heritage through industrialisation.
Almost forty-five years of communism followed,
including a year and a half of martial law, before the Solidarity
independent trade union gathered enough momentum to
force free elections in 1989 in which Lech Wałęsa became the
first post-communist president of Poland. In 1978 Kraków’s
Old Town and Kazimierz districts were placed on the first
UNESCO World Heritage List and in the same year Kraków’s
archbishop Karol Wojtyła became the first non-Italian pope
in 455 years. Because of its preservation, today Kraków
is arguably Poland’s most important historical and cultural
artefact. In 2011 the city was visited by 8.6 million tourists.
krakow.inyourpocket.com
Rynek Główny and the Cloth Hall, 1870
The Hejnał
One of the most fascinating
traditions for
tourists and Cracovians
is the hejnał (pronounced
“hey-now”) – a
short, melodious bugle
call played every hour
from the east, west,
north and south sides
of St. Mary Basilica’s
left tower (C-3).
Ergo the most fascinating
and enviable
profession carried out
54m above the city
has to be that of the trumpeter who plays it. Michał
Kołton has been responsible for the tradition since
2006 when he took over the role from his father,
Jan Kołton, Senior Fire Marshall for the Kraków Fire
Brigade. Jan himself had been climbing the 239 steps
of St. Mary’s tower to carry out the tradition since
1971, keeping the hejnał in the family after his own
father’s 35-year stint.
But the job is more than a source of pride and family
heritage. The seven firemen chosen to play are
on call for a 24-hour rotation then off for 48 hours.
While on call, they must be alert every hour to ring the
church bell and play precisely on the hour. The seven
trumpeters carry out their duty with great discipline,
as such a long-lasting tradition cannot be neglected.
And what a tradition it is. The most commonly read
legend tracing the hejnał is that one morning in 1241
the Tartars invaded Kraków (as they always do). The
warning song was blared to arouse the slumbering
city to arms. The man playing was shot in the neck,
thus abruptly cutting off the song in mid-melody.
To this day, the tune cuts off in mid-recapitulation
symbolizing Kraków’s vigilance as well as commemorating
the lone night guard who aroused the city to
defence, thereby saving it. However, Polish journalist
Leszek Mazan wrote in Polityka magazine that he
believes American journalist John M. Kelly fabricated
the ‘legend’ in 1929.
While little to no documentation regarding the origins
of the song has been found, Mr. Kołton and the other
players are certain the song’s story far precedes
John Kelly’s writing as a fire warning for the city. The
melody came from Hungary and was appropriately
used as a warning for fires or invasions as the word
‘hejnał’ in Hungarian means ‘wake up’. Prior to the
15th century when the tower on St. Mary’s was
completed, this warning was sounded from the city
walls, which is most likely where the legendary trumpeter
was shot and killed. While the historical birth
and development of Kraków’s trademark remains a
mystery, any visitor or Cracovian will surely attest
that the hejnał’s living tradition defines and shapes
Kraków. In addition to pleasing visitors able to witness
the bugle call live from the church tower every
hour, the tune can also be heard all over Poland when
it is broadcast live every day at noon on Jedynka
Radio, number 89.4 on the radio dial in Małopolska.
February - March 2013
79

SIGHTSEEING
OLD TOWN
80 81
Town Hall Tower, Main Market Square. Credit: Paweł Krzan
More beautiful photos of Kraków available online at
krzan.pl, krakow4u.pl
Tourist Information
City Tourist Information C-3, Rynek Główny 1/3
(Cloth Hall), tel. (+48) 12 433 73 10, www.infokrakow.pl.
The official city tourist office. Also at ul. Św. Jana
2 (C-3, Open 10:00-18:00.), ul. Szpitalna 25 (D-2, Open
09:00-17:00.), ul. Powiśle 11 (B-5, Open 09:00-17:00.)
and Pl. Wszystkich Świętych 2 (C-4, Wyspiański Pavilion,
Open 09:00-17:00). QOpen 09:00 - 17:00.
Cracow City Tours D-1, Pl. Matejki 2, tel. (+48)
12 421 13 33, www.cracowcitytours.pl. Also at
ul. Floriańska 44 (D-2, tel. 12 421 13 27, open 09:30 -
20:00). QOpen 08:30 - 19:30. Y
DiscoverCracow.eu C-3, Rynek Główny 30, tel.
(+48) 12 346 38 99, www.discovercracow.eu.
Also at ul. Św. Jana 2 (C-3, open 09:00 - 20:00) and ul.
Grodzka 28-30 (C-4, open 09:00 - 20:00). Offering tours
of Krakow and the surrounding area including Auschwitz-
Birkenau, Zakopane and Wieliczka for individuals and
groups. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00.
Jordan Tourist Information and Accommodation
Centre D-2, ul. Pawia 8, tel. (+48) 12 422
60 91, www.it.jordan.pl. QOpen 08:00 - 18:00, Sat
09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.
Kraków History Museum Visitor Services
Centre C-3, Rynek Główny 1/3, tel. (+48) 12 426
50 60, www.mhk.pl. Tourist info, ticket sales and gift
shop for all 15 branches of the Kraków History Museum.
QOpen 10:00 - 19:00.
Kraków has always been, in many respects, a charmed city.
With a history that dates back to the 4th century settlement
of Wawel Hill, Kraków has fortuitously avoided destruction
since the pesky Mongels stopped bullying the area in the
13th century, growing into one of the most prominent cities
in Central Europe. The most important city in Poland not
to come out of World War II looking like a trampled Lego
set, even the Soviets failed to leave their mark on the enchanted
city centre during 45 years of supervision, forced
to erect their gray communist Utopia in the outlying suburb
of Nowa Huta. As a result, Kraków is today one of the most
beautiful showpieces of Eastern Europe - a claim validated
by its historic centre’s inclusion on the first ever UNESCO
World Heritage List in 1978, along with the nearby Wieliczka
Salt Mine and only ten other places in the world. A city of
majestic architectural monuments, cobbled thoroughfares,
cultural treasures, timeless courtyards, priceless artworks
and legendary beer cellars and gardens, Kraków’s historic
centre is the pride of Poland.
What To See
Kraków’s centre can be divided into two main sections - the
Old Town and Kazimierz (the former Jewish Quarter), with
Wawel towering between them. These three areas are requisite
for anyone visiting the city - even if just for a day - and
have been given their own separate treatment with accompanying
cultural listings within this guide. Though one could
spend their life wandering in and out of the cobbled streets,
courtyards, cafes, clubs and museums of the Old Town and
Kazimierz (we’ve attempted to make a life out of it), if you get
the opportunity, don’t hesitate to take a trip across the river
into Podgórze. Just beyond Kazimierz, Podgórze is the city’s
most naturally beautiful and mysterious district; the Jewish
heritage trail also naturally leads here where the worst horror
of Kraków’s Nazi occupation played out and Schindler made
a name for himself.
Within these pages you’ll also find a section devoted to Nowa
Huta, one of only two planned socialist realist cities ever
built. Designed to be the antithesis of everything Kraków’s
Old Town represents, both culturally and aesthetically, the
massive steelworks and other commie comforts of Nowa
Huta are only a tram ride away. Those staying in the area
for a week or more should strongly consider daytrips to
Wieliczka, Auschwitz-Birkenau and Tarnów, information
about all of which you’ll find here by reading on. However long
your stay, the meticulously updated information in this guide
will help you make the most of it. Enjoy exploring Kraków
and Małopolska.
Szeroka Street, Kazimierz
www.flickr.com, Ana Paula Hirama
Rynek Główny PKO
Any exploration of Kraków’s Old Town should start
with the ‘Royal Route’ - the historical coronation
path of Polish kings when Kraków served as the royal
capital from the 14th century to the very end of the
16th century. Most of the Old Town’s prime sights lay
along this route from the Floriańska Gate to Wawel
Castle. For many of less noble lineage, however, the
route begins at Kraków’s train station (E-1), a walk
from which to the main market square is among the
most regal and awe-inspiring introductions to any city
in Europe. Following the human traffic from the station
through the ul. Basztowa underpass will plant you in the
green space that encircles the Old Town known as the
Planty (D-2). Ideal for a fair weather stroll, the Planty
was once a series of medieval fortifications surrounded
by a moat. After Poland’s Third Partition in the late 18th
century, the order came down from Austrian Emperor
Franz Joseph I to dismantle these neglected structures,
however thanks to local effort the northern parts of the
wall were spared, including the magnificent Barbican
and Floriańska Gate. Walking the two blocks towards
the Barbican, take note of the Słowacki Theatre (D-2)
to the left on ul. Szpitalna. A marvellous Baroque masterpiece
from 1893, while it’s a bit difficult to infiltrate
during the day, buying an affordable ticket to the theatre
is highly recommended. On ahead, the circular fortress
of the Barbican (D-2) was added to the city’s defences
in the late 15th century while, directly across from it, the
Floriańska Gate (D-2) that officially began the Royal
Route dates back to 1307. Pass through it and you’re
on one of Kraków’s main commercial streets. Behind
the Golden Arches, kebab and souvenir signs don’t
fail to notice the architectural detail of the facades.
On this street you’ll find the Jan Matejko House and
Museum, as well as the underappreciated Pharmacy
Museum (C-2).
Arriving upon Kraków’s main market square or ‘Rynek’
(C-3), you are now standing in the heart of Poland with
your finger on its pulse. Historically, culturally and spiritually
the Rynek and Wawel may be the two most important
sights in the country (sorry Warsaw). The largest medieval
market square in Central Europe, Kraków’s Rynek is 200
metres square and functions as the city’s social gravitation
point. Lined with cafes and restaurants, filled with people,
pigeons, street performers, musicians and horse-drawn
carriages, this is a place of festivals, concerts, parades
and other events. At its centre lies the impressive Cloth
Hall or ‘Sukiennice’ - a neo-Gothic structure which has
served as a market for merchants since the Middle Ages,
and whose history you can now learn in the Rynek Underground
museum housed beneath it, not to mention the
wonderful 19th Century Polish Art Gallery on the first
floor. Directly before you as you’re leaving Floriańska is St.
Mary’s Basilica - or Mariacki Cathedral - one of the most
dazzling cathedrals in the country famed for its incredible
altarpiece and stained glass. It’s from atop the taller of the
two cathedral towers that a bugler plays an abbreviated
tune every hour on the hour - don’t miss it. On the other
side of the square you’ll find the Town Hall Tower, with a
viewing platform at the top (open in season) and a theatre
and bar in the former basement prison.
Leaving the Rynek follow the kings down ul. Grodzka to
pl. Wszystkich Świętych (C-4). To the right is St. Francis’
Basilica (B/C-4) with an Art Nouveau interior by Stanisław
Wyspiański that should not be missed, while directly before
you are three more incredible stained glass windows by
Kraków’s favourite son in a specially-made modern building.
Ulica Grodzka leads you past SS Peter & Paul’s Church
(C-4) with its striking sculptures of the 12 disciples posed
before it. Cut across the small square to your right and you’ll
find yourself on one of Kraków’s most handsome streets,
ul. Kanonicza. The late Pope John Paul II’s former residence
is at numbers 19-21, which now house the Archdiocesan
Museum (C-5). Kanonicza lets out directly at the foot of
Wawel Castle (B/C-5), the city’s defining landmark. A
source of great pride, patriotic and spiritual strength, Wawel
is worth spending half a day exploring, as well as the Wisła
riverbanks below.
Other Old Town highlights include the famous Czartoryski
Museum (D-2) - lucky enough to claim one of only
a handful of Da Vinci paintings on display in the world
within its collection, but unluckily for you it’s currently
closed for renovation. Instead give some time to the
fabulous 20th century art collection on the top floor of the
National Museum (H-3). The Old Town is also home to the
second oldest university in Central Europe. Jagiellońian
University’s Collegium Maius (B-3) is the school’s oldest
building and was the studying place of Copernicus.
Take an hour out to see the incredible library and lecture
hall, as well as the oldest surviving globe in the world to
depict the Americas. Finally, anyone looking to do some
bizarre bargain hunting should head to one of Kraków’s
catch-all marketplaces, with Stary Kleparz (C/D-1) and
Hala Targowa (E-4) - especially during the latter’s Sunday
morning flea market - being bona fide cultural experiences
in their own right (see Shopping for more).
Peter & Paul’s Cathedral soylentgreen23, pl.wikipedia.org
Kraków In Your Pocket krakow.inyourpocket.com
krakow.inyourpocket.com
February - March 2013

82 OLD TOWN
Guided Tours
If an authoritative print guide, website and iPhone app
just aren’t enough and you need someone to literally
take you by the hand (hey, we kid) there are plenty of
tour companies to choose from in Kraków and we list
the best of them here.
If you’re wondering about the ever-popular antique
horse-drawn carriages that line the market square,
routes and prices are individually determined with the
driver but rides generally cost 250zł/hr, 175zł/30mins.
Just don’t expect them to disseminate any information
about what you’re seeing along the way (see, you might
need this guidebook after all); that bright idea hasn’t
occurred to anyone yet.
AB City Tour ul. Kościuszki 49, tel. (+48) 12
427 27 57, www.abcitytour.pl. Their large fleet of
electronic golf-carts (heated in winter!) zips tired-footed
tourists around all the sights in town, while informational
audio recordings explain Kraków’s history in English,
Polish, Spanish, German, French, Italian, Norwegian,
Hungarian, Japanese, Dutch, Russian, Ukrainian and
Portuguese. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00. Y
Cracow City Tours D-1, Pl. Matejki 2, tel. (+48)
12 421 13 33, www.cracowcitytours.pl. The best
value trip to Auschwitz on offer. Also at ul. Floriańska
44 (D-2, 12 421 13 27, Open 09:30 - 20:00). QOpen
08:30 - 19:30. Y
Cracow Tours B-2, ul. Krupnicza 3, tel. (+48)
12 430 07 26, www.cracowtours.pl. Variety of
tour packages including city centre tours, Auschwitz,
the salt mines and Zakopane. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00.
Closed Sat, Sun.
Crazy Guides C-2, ul. Floriańska 38, tel. (+48)
500 09 12 00, www.crazyguides.com. Specialising
in communist themed tours of Nowa Huta and the Sendzimir
Steelworks. Experience Stalin’s gift to Kraków - one
of the world’s only centrally planned cities - in a genuine
Eastern Bloc Trabant 601 automobile. Q ‘Communism
Tour’ 129zł per person.
DiscoverCracow.eu C-3, Rynek Główny 30,
tel. (+48) 12 346 38 99, www.discovercracow.
eu. This helpful tourist office offers guided tours of
Kraków (Wawel, Rynek Underground and more) and the
Małopolska region. Also at ul. Grodzka 28-30 (C-4, open
09:00 - 20:00) and ul. Św. Jana 2 (C-3, open 09:00 -
20:00). QOpen 09:00 - 20:00.
Marco der Pole C-4, ul. Kanonicza 15, tel.
(+48) 12 430 21 17, www.krakow-travel.com. A
well-seasoned travel outfit, Marco der Pole organises
daily walking tours, regional daytrips and tailor-made
programs for adult and school groups. QOpen 09:00
- 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
The Tourist Guide Association (Stowarzyszenie
Przewodników Turystycznych - Kraków),
tel. (+48) 725 72 52 00, www.guide-cracow.pl.
These well-connected linguists can help you find and
book tours of Kraków in English, Czech, French, Spanish,
Portuguese, Italian, Dutch, Swedish, German, Polish,
Russian, Slovak, Serbian and Croatian.
Churches
There’s hardly a resident of Kraków who doesn’t have a
church for a neighbour. While the number of churches,
cathedrals and monasteries in the city is almost endless,
we’ve used a bit of discrimination in only listing the most
remarkable and unavoidable of the bunch here. All of these
places of worship are located in the Old Town and still active
to varying degrees, so please be respectful and try not to
visit during services. Kazimierz, Podgórze and Nowa Huta
churches are listed in their respective sections.
Holy Trinity Basilica (Bazylika Św. Trójcy) C-4, ul.
Stolarska 12, tel. (+48) 12 423 16 13, www.krakow.
dominikanie.pl. Built in 1250 by Dominican friars from
Bologna, the church lost many of its treasures when it was
gutted by fire back in 1850. Rebuilt in 1872 this huge structure
is now an important evangelical centre. The image of
Our Lady of the Rosary, found inside the Rosary chapel, is
said to have healing powers. Q Open 09:30 - 11:30, 13:30
- 16:30; closed to tourists on Sun.
SS Peter & Paul’s Church (Kościół Św. Piotra
i Pawła) C-4, ul. Grodzka 52a, tel. (+48) 12 350 63
65, www.apostolowie.pl. Kraków’s premier Jesuit Church
was built in the early 1600s. The twelve disciples standing
on the gates outside are its most striking feature, although
the interior has been extensively renovated and the airy,
austere grandeur of this late Renaissance building is now
evident. Possessors of a 46.5m Foucault Pendulum - a device
invented by French physicist Leon Foucault in 1851 which
proves the earth’s rotation, shows demonstrating its use
generally occur on Thursdays at 10:00, 11:00 and 12:00,
but check their website to be sure. QOpen 11:00 - 15:00,
Sun 13:30 - 17:30. Closed Mon.
Ferdziu/Wikipedia/
CC BY-SA 3.0 PL
St. Adalbert’s (Kościół
Św. Wojciecha) C-3,
Rynek Główny, tel. (+48)
12 422 83 52, www.kosciolwojciecha.pl.
Kraków’s
oldest church sits not unlike a
lost orphan at the southeast
corner of the Cloth Hall, a
mad mix of pre-Roman, Roman,
Gothic, Renaissance
and Baroque architecture,
all crammed together in a
higgledy-piggledy jumble of
religious styles. The earliest parts of the building date
from at least the 11th century, pre-dating the Rynek and
explaining its seemingly random position within it. St. Adalbert
had his own cult following at the time, which explains
how it managed to survive. A look inside is well worth it,
not least because the floor sits some two metres below
the surface of the main square. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00,
Sun 13:30 - 18:00.
St. Francis’ Basilica (Bazylika Św. Franciszka)
C-4, Pl. Wszystkich Świętych 5, tel. (+48) 12 422
53 76, www.franciszkanska.pl. Our favourite church
in Kraków thanks to the gorgeous interior Art Nouveau
murals by native son Stanisław Wyspiański, which nicely
balance the organic and geometric with unique floral patterns
that make this the most colourful place of worship
in the city. Wyspiański also made the eight stained-glass
windows around 1895, including the controversial and
iconic centrepiece, ‘God the Father in the Act of Creation.’
Dating back to the 13th century, St. Francis’ Basilica was
the first brick building in the city and is well worth popping
Kraków In Your Pocket krakow.inyourpocket.com
in, even for those who could care less for looking at another
church. Q Open 09:40 - 15:00, Sun 13:30 - 15:30. Every
2nd Sunday of the month open 13:30 - 14:30 only. No
visiting during mass, please.
St. Mary’s Basilica (Bazylika Mariacka) C-3, Pl.
Mariacki 5, tel. (+48) 12 422 07 37, www.mariacki.com.
Tartar invasions of the 13th century left the original church in a
heap of ruins and construction began on St. Mary’s using the
existing foundations. It doesn’t matter how many times you see
it, the altarpiece, stained glass windows of the nave, and the
blue, starred ceiling will take your breath away. The magnificent
altarpiece was for 12 painstaking years the principal work of
the 15th century German artist Veit Stoss (aka Wit Stwosz),
and depicts the Virgin Mary’s Quietus among the apostles.
Surrounding the altar are polychrome paintings by Matejko,
Mehoffer and Wyspiański. Several local legends are attached
to St. Mary’s. The architect of the smaller tower murdered his
brother (the architect of the taller), apparently jealous that his
structure was shorter and less elaborate. Racked with guilt he
then committed suicide by throwing himself off the roof of the
cathedral. Nowadays the taller tower is home to one of Kraków’s
most enduring traditions. The bugle call played on the turn of
every hour apparently takes its origins from an event in 1241.
Having spotted invading Tartar forces on the horizon, a lone
fireman started playing his trumpet to alert the habitants of
Kraków. He was shot with an arrow in his neck, abruptly cutting
off the tune mid-melody, but the town was roused from its sleep
and defended itself. In honour of this event, seven local firemen
now have task of tooting the tune every hour. The first written
mention of the tradition dates back to 1392, though a local
magazine recently claimed the whole custom was invented by
an American in 1929. QOpen 11:30 - 18:00, Sun 14:00 - 18:00.
Last entrance 15 minutes before closing. Admission 10/5zł.
krakow.inyourpocket.com
Barbican
OLD TOWN
Barbican D-2, ul. Basztowa,
tel. (+48) 12 619 23
20, www.mhk.pl. The showpiece
of the city’s medieval
defences, the Barbican was
built at the end of the 15th
century to protect Kraków’s
main entrance and was connected
to the Floriańska
Gate via a drawbridge over
the moat that surrounded
it. 24.4 metres in diameter
with walls 3 metres thick this masterpiece of medieval
military engineering proved impenetrable and today
stands as one of the only surviving structures of its
kind in Europe; certainly the most well-preserved. Built
in Gothic style, the Kraków Barbican is topped by seven
turrets and includes 130 defensive slots used by archers
and riflemen. One of the structure’s most famous
legends comes from 1768, when local burgher Marcin
Oracewicz defended Kraków from the Russians during
the Bar Confederation by shooting their commander
Colonel Panin dead with a coat button from his position
within the Barbican; a plaque on the eastern side of the
fortress commemorates the incident and Oracewicz’s
monument can be seen outside the Celestat Museum.
Today the Barbican is used for various special events
(medieval pageants, jousting contests) and can be visited
as an outdoor museum between the months of April
and October, where you’ll learn the history of Kraków’s
defensive walls.Q Closed until April.
•
February - March 2013
83

84 OLD TOWN
Main Market Square
Main Market Square
(Rynek) C-3. Kraków’s main
market square (Rynek) serves
as the city’s gravitational centre,
and is the natural start and finish
point for any tour of the city.
Originally designed in 1257 - the
year Kraków was awarded its
charter - the gridlike layout of the
Old Town and its central square
has changed little in the years that have followed. Measuring
200 metres square, the Rynek ranks as one of the
largest medieval squares in Europe, and is surrounded
by elegant townhouses, all with their own unique names,
histories and curiosities. Through the centuries it was in
Kraków’s Rynek that homage to the king was sworn and
public executions held. Most famously it was here that
Tadeusz Kościuszko roused the locals to revolt against
foreign rule in 1794. The Rynek has always been the
natural stage for public celebrations, with everything from
parades of sausage dogs to Christmas crib competitions
taking place. Not all the events have had been happy
affairs however, and back in the 17th century King Jan
Sobieski III was privy to a firework display which ended
in bloodshed when some of the explosives were accidentally
fired into the crowd. Some mistake. More recently
the market square was subjected to a Nazi rally under
German occupation which was attended by Der Führer
himself and celebrated the square’s name change from
Rynek Główny to ‘Adolf Hitler Platz.’ Fortunately the moniker
didn’t last long and today the Rynek occupies itself by
hosting the yearly Christmas and Easter markets, as well
as numerous festivals and outdoor concerts.
Taking centre stage in the Rynek is the Cloth Hall
(Sukiennice). Built in the 14th century this huge hall was
effectively the first shopping mall in the world. To this
day it is still crammed with hawkers and stalls selling
amber, lace, woodwork and assorted tourist tat. In 2010
a 4,000m2, hi-tech museum tracing its history, and that
of the entire city, opened underneath the Cloth Hall, called
Rynek Underground (see our box). The second floor
hosts the underrated 19th Century Polish Art Gallery.
Directly next to the Sukiennice stands Poland’s most
eminent scribe: Adam Mickiewicz. Ironically, the bard
never visited the city until after his death when his
remains were transferred to the Wawel Cathedral crypt,
but this hasn’t stopped the statue from becoming one of
Kraków’s best loved monuments. Across from Mickiewicz
looms the magnificent St. Mary’s Basilica, its crowning
glory being Veit Stoss’ altarpiece. The area surrounding
the Basilica was formerly a cemetery, and the bodies
of hundreds of Cracovians still lie beneath the cobbles.
Ghoulish tourists will also appreciate the set of metal
neck restraints displayed on the side door of St Mary’s,
formerly used to punish philandering women.
On the square’s other side is the 70 metre Town Hall
Tower, the only element of the 14th century Town Hall
remaining after many fires, renovations and uncaring
demolitions. Open from April to November only, visitors
can ascend up to the 3rd floor through Gothic vaulted
rooms which contain, amongst other things, 1960s
photographs of Kraków and look out on the square below
from the viewing point.
Monuments
Adam Mickiewicz C-3, Rynek Główny. One of the
most important statues in Poland, the large likeness of
the romantic poet and national hero Adam Mickiewicz
(1798-1855) was originally unveiled in 1898 to celebrate
the centenary of the great man’s birth, and, like so many
other symbols of national pride was destroyed by the occupying
Germans during WWII. The statue that stands in
the Rynek today is a 1955 copy of Teodor Rygier’s original,
and is a popular and easily recognisable meeting place.
Lithuanian-born Mickiewicz (who’s most famous work, Pan
Tadeusz begins with the words ‘Lithuania, my country!’
and who is known and loved by the Lithuanians as Adomas
Mickevičius) never visited Kraków until 35 years after his
death. His body lies at rest in the Cathedral crypts just
down the road at Wawel.
Eros Bendato (Eros Bound) B-3, Rynek Główny.
Among Kraków’s most well-known landmarks, this
sculpture in the western corner of the market square is
a popular meeting place and at some point serves as
a photographic backdrop for almost every tourist who
visits the city. Affectionately referred to as ‘The Head’,
the bronze body part’s official title is ‘Eros Bendato’
(Eros Bound) and is the work of Polish artist Igor Mitoraj.
A student of Tadeusz Kantor’s at the Kraków School of
Art, an exhibition of 14 of Mitoraj’s monumental works
dressed the Rynek from Oct 17, 2003 to Jan 25, 2004,
during which the artist gifted this work to the city, sparking
controversy over what to do with it. Initially, the sculpture
was designated for Plac Kolejowy (E-2), but the artist was
indignant about having his work in front of a commercial
building (Galeria Krakowska). Despite protest from historians
and many locals, the sculpture eventually found
it’s current place near the Town Hall Tower, where it has
become an unexpected tourist attraction. In summer,
children can be seen crawling all over the hollow edifice,
sticking their heads and limbs through the eyeholes for
camera-snapping parents, though winter too often finds
it profaned with trash and foul-smelling liquids. Fans of
Mitoraj’s work will find another of his large sculptures -
titled ‘Luci di Nara’ - adorning the charming courtyard of
Collegium Luridicum (C-4, ul. Grodzka 53).
Grunwald Monument
(Pomnik Grunwaldu) D-1,
Pl. Matejki. The Battle of
Grunwald, fought between
the joint armies of Poland
and Lithuania against the
Teutonic Knights on July 15,
1410, is considered to be
fot. Iwona Grabska
one of the greatest battles
ever to take place in medieval
Europe. A defining moment in Polish history, the battle was
immortalised in Kraków with the unveiling of this weighty
monument in front of an estimated 160,000 people on the
500th anniversary of the event in 1910. Antoni Wiwulski’s
(1877-1919) original masterpiece was, not surprisingly,
destroyed by the occupying Nazis during WWII and the copy
that now stands in its place dates from 1976, having been
faithfully reproduced using sketches and models of the original.
At the top on his horse is the King of Poland Władysław
Jagiełło, his sword pointing downwards in his right hand.
At the front is his cousin the Lithuanian prince Vytautas
(Vitold), who is flanked on either side by victorious soldiers
from the joint army. The dead man at the front is Urlich von
Jungingen, the Teutonic Order’s Grand Master, who lost his
life during the battle.
Kraków In Your Pocket krakow.inyourpocket.com

86 OLD TOWN OLD TOWN 87
The Cloth Hall
Cloth Hall (Sukiennice) C-3, Rynek Główny 1/3,
www.muzeum.krakow.pl. The iconic glory-piece at
the centre of Kraków’s market square, there is proof
that a structure of some sort has existed on the site
of the Cloth Hall (Sukiennice) since the mid-13th century.
Originally resembling two rows of stone trading
stalls with a thoroughfare running between them, a
roof was erected over them around 1300 before King
Kazimierz the Great approved the construction of
a purpose-built trading hall in the mid-14th century.
As a result, Kraków’s importance as an east-west
trading post increased; though the name ‘Sukiennice’
refers specifically to the trade of textiles and fabrics,
Kraków’s Cloth Hall saw an array of commodities bought
and sold in its merchant stalls including wax, spices,
leather and silk, as well as lead and salt from the nearby
Wieliczka mines.
After a fire destroyed the building in the mid-16th
century, the Sukiennice underwent a Renaissance
facelift overseen by Jan Maria Padovano (1493-1574)
featuring brilliantly deformed gargoyles by the Italian-
Polish sculptor Santi Gucci on the façade. At this time
the Cloth Hall was probably the most magnificent
building in all of Kraków. By the mid-1870s, however,
Poland had been partitioned for nearly a century and
the Cloth Hall was in a rather decrepit state. Between
1875-79, while the city was part of Austro-Hungariancontrolled
Galicia, many of the outbuildings were torn
down and the neo-Gothic colonnades and outside
arcades were added by Tomasz Pryliński, a student of
Jan Matejko. The interior was converted into a series
of wooden stalls and on October 7th, 1879 the Kraków
City Council voted to give half of the upper floor of
the Cloth Hall over to the creation of the first Polish
National Museum. It quickly became the focal point
for a huge celebration of Polish patriotism attracting
Poles from all three partitions as well as those from
self-imposed exiles abroad.
The 20th century saw ongoing development of the
building with the most significant work being carried
out in the late 1950s when much of the 19th
century interior was replaced. By the start of the
21st century, however, the building, particularly
the display areas inside, was in poor condition and
unprepared for the demands of a 21st century museum
or shopping area. Beginning in August 2006
and lasting over 4 years, the building was given a
complete re-modelling with lifts, air-conditioning
and new natural and artificial lighting installed.
Where once were sloped attics, you will now find
lovely terraces overlooking the square below and
St. Mary’s Basilica opposite. To take advantage
of them and the adjacent Cafe Szał (see Cafes),
visit the 19th Century Polish Art Gallery (see
Museums, and keep in mind you don’t need to pay
admission to visit the cafe). Having visited the Art
Gallery or the Rynek Underground museum take
a break by visiting the Noworolski Cafe for coffee
(see Cafes) and round it off by picking up a souvenir
in the arcade within the Cloth Hall, where you’ll
find all sorts of handicrafts, amber and other local
products at surprisingly reasonable prices. And
you’ll have the experience of shopping in what is
basically a 700-year old shopping mall.
Museums
Kraków is host to a plethora of museums. Opening hours
and exhibitions that are continually closing for restoration
can strike visitors as willfully eccentric, until one stops
to consider how much patience and care - and how little
capital - is invested to maintain such high standards. It is
for this reason that philanthropic visitors may even see fit
to throw an extra złoty into the collection box. Alternatively,
cheapskates and paupers should note that all branches of
the National Museum are free on Sundays. The museums
listed here are in the Old Town, while Kazimierz and Podgórze
museums are listed in their respective sections of the guide.
19th Century Polish Art Gallery C-3, Cloth Hall,
Rynek Główny 3, tel. (+48) 12 424 46 03, www.
muzeum.krakow.pl. Open again after a lengthy closure, this
magnificent and historic exhibition inside the Cloth Hall covers
Polish art from in and around the 19th century, and its major
trends of portraiture and epic historical painting. Comprising
four rooms, the collection is refreshingly small, giving proper
attention to each piece, some of which are enormous and
all of which are gorgeously framed. Of particular interest
for their status as national treasures are the Italian-born,
Polish-resident Marceli Bacciarelli’s ‘Portrait of Stanisław
August Poniatowski in Coronation Dress’ from around 1790
and, a century on, Władysław Podkowiński’s famous ‘Frenzy’
from 1894. Other painters of note on display whose works
shouldn’t be missed include Jan Matejko, Jacek Malczewski,
Józef Chełmoński and Stanisław Witkiewicz. One of the perks
of a visit is access to the magnificent balcony overlooking the
market square. Recommended. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Fri,
Sat 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. Last entrance 30 minutes
before closing. Admission 12/6zł, family ticket 24zł, audioguide
5zł. Sun free for permanent exhibitions.
Archaeology Museum (Muzeum Archeologiczne)
B-4, ul. Poselska 3, tel. (+48) 12 422 71 00,
www.ma.krakow.pl. Fresh from a recent boost of cash,
Kraków’s one-time lacklustre Archaeology Museum has been
transformed into something actually worth going to have a
look at. In addition to the famous Zbruch Idol (see our box),
regional Stone Age artefacts and a brilliant room dedicated
to local clothing from 70,000 BC to the 14th century, the
museum houses a permanent collection of artefacts from
ancient Egypt including some beautiful shrouds, a number
of intricately decorated sarcophagi and some mummified
cats. The latter exhibition is best enjoyed with the aid of an
audio guide, available for an extra charge. QOpen 09:00 -
15:00, Tue, Thu 09:00 - 18:00, Sun 11:00 - 16:00. Closed
Sat. Admission 7/5zł, Sun free for permanent exhibitions.
Audioguide 3zł. Y
Archdiocesan Museum of Cardinal Karol Wojtyła
(Muzeum Archidiecezjalne Kardynała Karola
Wojtyły) C-5, ul. Kanonicza 19-21, tel. (+48) 12 421
89 63, www.muzeumkra.diecezja.pl. John Paul II lived
here - twice. Once as Karol Wojtyła, the young priest with
a penchant for skiing (his Head skis are on show) and later
as a bishop, in grander, adjacent rooms. The Archdiocesan
doubles as a small but well-presented showcase of beautiful
sacral art, some dating back to the 13th century. Among
the items on display, you will find presents to His Holiness
from heads-of-state. All very nice, but the exhibition will only
hold the attention of true papal enthusiasts, and visitors
can expect to be tailed by over-zealous curators. Personal
guided tours available or for groups up to 25 people in
French, English and Polish. QOpen 10:00 - 16:00, Sat, Sun
10:00 - 15:00. Closed Mon. Admission 5/3zł, family ticket
12zł. Guided tours 60zł.
Da Pietro
You can find us on the Market Square since 1992
Kraków‘s most popular Italian restaurant for the last 20 years
Rynek Główny 17, Kraków - tel. 12 422 32 79 - www.dapietro.pl - www.facebook.com/DaPietroKrakow
Bishop Erazm Ciołek Palace (Pałac Biskupa
Erazma Ciołka) C-5, ul. Kanonicza 17, tel. (+48)
12 424 93 70, www.muzeum.krakow.pl. This early
14th century palace holds two permanent exhibitions of
the National Museum, Art of Old Poland from the 12th to
18th Centuries and Orthodox Art of the Old Polish Republic.
As you could have guessed, both exhibits consist entirely
of sacral art from before the idea of ‘art’ was applied to
non-religious subject matter (how many centuries did
that take?). Most of it came directly out of Kraków’s own
churches or others in the region, and most of it is admittedly
superb, if that’s your thing. If it’s not, it’s a bit of a snoozefest.
The highlight is without doubt the strange 16th century
Christ Riding a Donkey, a near life-size wooden sculpture of
everyone’s favourite model doing just that with vacant eyes
and the mule atop a wagon. Eerily beautiful. Also of note
is the wooden Madonna from Krużlowa which dates from
around 1400. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00.
Closed Mon. Last entrance 30 minutes before closing.
Admission 12/6zł, family ticket 24zł, audioguide 5zł. Sun
free for permanent exhibitions.
Collegium Maius (Jagiellonian University Museum)
B-3, ul. Jagiellońska 15, tel. (+48) 12 663 13
07, www.maius.uj.edu.pl. Jagiellonian University is the
third oldest university in Europe, founded by King Kazimierz
the Great in 1364. Its picturesque courtyard ranks as one of
the most beautiful in the city. An amiable English-speaking
guide will take you on a 45-minute tour of the Treasury, Assembly
Hall, Library and Common Room. Along the way, you
will see the oldest surviving globe to depict the Americas.
It was in 1492 that astronomer Nicolas Copernicus began
his studies at the Jagiellonian, developing his own theories
about which way the world spins. You need to call or visit in
advance to book a place on the English-language tour, which
takes place Monday through Friday at 13:00. More basic
English-language tours (omitting the gallery and scientific
instruments exhibit) begin about every 20 minutes throughout
the day, though we’re informed it’s wise to arrange these
beforehand as well.
Recently a new interactive exhibit about mathematics titled
Everything...is a number (‘Wszystko...jest liczbą’) has
opened, but a separate ticket and separate hours apply:
09:00 - 14:00; closed Sun. Last entrance 1 hour before
closing. Admission 7/5zł. Q Open 10:00 - 15:00, Tue 10:00 -
16:00. Closed Sun. Last entrance 40 minutes before closing.
Admission 12/6zł for permanent exhibit, 16/12zł for entire
museum (including gallery and scientific instruments) or tour.
Admission free on Tuesdays between 14:00 and 16:00 for
a self-guided tour.
Gallery of Ancient Art (Arsenał - Galeria Sztuki
Starożytnej) C-2, ul. Pijarska 8, tel. (+48) 12 422
55 66, www.muzeum.krakow.pl. This small branch of
the National Museum is also a satellite of the Czartoryski
Museum across the street, and brings together three unique
collections of ancient art amassed abroad during the 19th
and 20th centuries by the Czartoryski family, the Potocki
family of Krzeszowice and the Kraków National Museum.
On display are artefacts primarily from ancient Egypt,
Greece and Rome dating from between 3000 BC to the
7th century AD, with highlights including marble sculptures,
Egyptian sarcophagi and animal mummies. It’s amazing that
these items found their way to Kraków and they provide an
interesting look at the material culture of the ancient world,
but are hardly required viewing for those without a special
interest in antiquity. QOpen 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon.
Admission 8/4zł, familly ticket 16zł. Sun free for permanent
exhibitions.
Kraków In Your Pocket krakow.inyourpocket.com
krakow.inyourpocket.com
February - March 2013

88 OLD TOWN OLD TOWN 89
Słowacki Theatre
Słowacki Theatre
(Teatr
im. Juliusza
Słowackiego)
D-2, Pl. Św. Ducha
1, tel. (+48)
12 424 45 25,
www.slowacki.
krakow.pl. Regarded
today as an architectural masterpiece, the
Słowacki Theatre came under fierce criticism when
construction began due to the demolition of the medieval
Church of the Holy Ghost to make room for it - an
act that drew the ire of local cultural bigwigs like Jan
Matejko. Completed in 1893, Jan Zawiejski modeled
his design for the theatre on the Paris Opera and the
structure is distinguished for its elaborate facade
which is decorated with allegorical figures. Sadly, the
interior is usually off limits to the public unless there
is a production on; a pleading look is usually enough
to get past this obstacle. The foyer and marble staircase
are supreme examples of fin-de-siecle thinking,
and the stage curtain is itself worth the James Bond
deviousness needed to sneak in. Designed by Henryk
Siemiradzki it features beautiful paintings representing
drama, comedy, music and dance. Poland’s first
cinema show was held here in 1896. Q Open depending
on repertoire. Guided tours can be arranged
by phone for 130zł (up to 40 people), but are only
available in Polish at this time.
Out of Centre
Polish Aviation Museum (Muzeum Lotnictwa
Polskiego) Al. Jana Pawła II 39 (Czyżyny), tel.
(+48) 12 642 87 00, www.muzeumlotnictwa.pl.
Until recently this magnificent museum was little more
than a place of marginal interest to flight enthusiasts,
most of them from Poland. A 46 million złoty investment
has changed all that though. The aforementioned fortune
has been spent on a brand new, propeller-shaped building
on four floors, bursting with hi-tech goodies including a
cinema and an interactive space for children alongside a
library, museum shop and a collection of planes including
a marvellous Blériot XI dating from 1909 and a Polishbuilt
RWD from the 1930s. Considering some 80% of the
financing came from the EU it’s a little bit disappointing
to see that most of the displays are in Polish only, but
don’t let that put you off too much. The rest of the museum
remains intact, including hangars and buildings
containing some remarkable machines, plus uniforms,
photographs and even a complete Spitfire with Polish
markings. The outdoor section (the museum is located
on an old airfield) is littered with aircraft including several
Russian-built fighter jets from the days of the Warsaw
Pact. All in all, the entire ensemble provides exactly the
kind of entertainment and education a museum should
provide, and can take up most of a day to explore thoroughly.
Northeast of the Old Town on the way to Nowa
Huta, take tram numbers 4, 5, 9, or 10 -or- bus numbers
124 or 424, getting off at the ‘Wieczysta’ stop. A taxi if
called in advance should cost around 25zł each way.
Highly recommended. Q Open 09:00 - 17:00. Closed
Mon. Admission 10/5zł, Tue free. Y
Hipolit House (Kamienica Hipolitów) C-3, Pl.
Mariacki 3, tel. (+48) 12 422 42 19, www.mhk.pl.
The Hipolit’s were a merchant family who lived in this fine
building around the end of the 16th and beginning of the
17th centuries, although the building dates back considerably
further than that. The inside has been transformed
into a series of recreations of typical Polish bourgeois
living spaces from the 17th to early 20th century, and
is interesting for the insights it gives into how the other
half lived as well as being a showcase for some truly remarkable
furniture and antiques. Worth a visit. Q Open
09:00 - 16:00, Thu 12:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Last
entrance 30 minutes before closing. Admission 7/5zł,
family ticket 14zł. Wed free.
History of Photography Museum (Muzeum
Historii Fotografii im. Walerego Rzewuskiego)
H-1, ul. Józefitów 16, tel. (+48) 12 634 59 32, www.
mhf.krakow.pl. Allegedly Poland’s only museum dedicated
exclusively to photography, this modest museum tracks the
development of the art form over several cupboard-size
rooms, including changing photographic exhibitions, an old
darkroom, heaps of ancient cameras and a nice collection of
historical images of Kraków. There’s plenty here to fascinate
shutterbugs, but if your primary camera is your cellphone, you
may not deem it worth the journey. Q Open 11:00 - 18:00,
Sat, Sun 10:00 - 15:30. Closed Mon, Tue, except for groups
(3 person minimum) who arrange at least 7 days in advance.
Last entrance 30 minutes before closing. Admission 8/5zł,
Sun free. Y
Home Army Museum (Muzeum Armii Krajowej)
J-1, ul. Wita Stwosza 12, tel. (+48) 12 410 07 70,
www.muzeum-ak.krakow.pl. This beautifully restored
3-floor red-brick railway building has been adapted (including
a gorgeous glass atrium) to house the Home Army
Museum - documenting the size, organisation and efforts
of Poland’s underground military resistance from the time
of the failed September campaign of 1939 to the underground
armed forces official disbanding in 1945. The Home
Army’s continuing fight for freedom within the country’s two
occupied zones (Nazi and Soviet) is one of World War II’s
less acknowledged aspects and this fantastic museum
goes to great length to demonstrate that Poland’s government,
military and civilian population never surrendered in
the fight for freedom. After a decade of collecting historical
documents, artefacts and information from Home Army
veterans, this museum opened to the public in September
2012 and is a must-visit for anyone interested in WWII history.
QOpen 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission 13/7zł.
Sun permanent exhibit free. Y
Jan Matejko House (Dom Jana Matejki) D-3, ul.
Floriańska 41, tel. (+48) 12 422 59 26, www.muzeum.
krakow.pl. Jan Matejko was Poland’s greatest historical
painter whose work and life is honoured in the house where
he was born, lived and would eventually die in the 1890s. As
well as some witty imaginings of Kraków medieval life, studies
for gargoyles and collections of Renaissance furniture
and antique guns and ammo, the minutiae of Matejko’s life
is preserved, right down to his eyeglasses in this recently
renovated museum. A fascinating tribute to a genuine Polish
master, and a man of many parts. Those with a special
interest in Matejko may want to visit his workshop and manor
house in Nowa Huta (see Nowa Huta Museums), and the 19th
Century Polish Art Gallery where many of his greatest works
are displayed. Q Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00.
Closed Mon. Last entrance 30 minutes before closing.
Admission 8/4zł, family ticket 16zł, audioguide 5zł. Sun free
for permanent exhibitions. Y
Józef Mehoffer House (Dom Józefa Mehoffera)
A-2, ul. Krupnicza 26, tel. (+48) 12 370 81
80, www.muzeum.krakow.pl. Mehoffer was one of
the turn of the 19th century’s artistic elite, a skilled
stained-glass artist collaborating with Wyspiański on
the interiors of numerous Kraków churches and important
buildings. This, his house, was where the artists of
the Młoda Polska (Young Poland) movement often met
and is a delight to visit, filled with elegant furnishings,
Art Deco to impressionist-era art and many sketches,
designs and finished stained glass pieces that attest
to his important artistic legacy. In warmer months you
won’t find a more magical place to relax and read a
book than the hidden garden behind the house, presided
over by the old-fashioned Cafe Ważka - one of the city’s
best-kept secrets. QOpen 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon,
Tue. Admission 8/4zł, family ticket 16zł. Sun free for
permanent exhibitions. Y
Manggha B-6, ul. Konopnickiej 26, tel. (+48)
12 267 27 03, www.manggha.pl. The Museum
of Japanese Art & Technology houses the National
Museums Japanese artefacts, consisting primarily of
local legend Feliks Jasieński’s fabulous 6,500-piece
collection, featuring battlesuits, antiques, porcelain,
incredibly beautiful watercolour paintings and comical
woodprints. The modern building was created by
legendary Polish film director Andrzej Wajda, a native
of Kraków who saw the private collection of Feliks
Jasieński exhibited during WWII. Upon winning the
Kyoto city prize in 1987, Wajda donated the $340,000
grant for the construction of the museum. Q Open
10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission 15/10zł, family
ticket 25zł, group ticket 60zł, Tue free. Guided
tours 100zł.
National Museum in Kraków (Muzeum Narodowe
w Krakowie) H-3, Al. 3 Maja 1, tel. (+48)
12 295 55 00, www.muzeum.krakow.pl. Far from
being the shoeless peasants many cynical historians
would have us believe, previous generations of Poles
have in actual fact excelled in the arts. The superb
National Museum of Art in Kraków showcases many
such examples of their work. As well as a number
of world-class temporary shows, the museum also
houses fine collections of Polish applied arts and
weaponry and gives its entire top floor over to the
permanent 20th-century Polish Art exhibition, a truly
awesome collection - showcasing the works of such
visionaries as Kantor, Wyspiański and Witkacy - that
any gallery would be more than proud of owning. The
museum also houses a small shop and TriBeCa café.
QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon.
Last entrance 30 minutes before closing. Admission
10/5zł, family ticket 19zł, audioguide 5zł. Sun free for
permanent exhibitions. Y
Pharmacy Museum (Muzeum Farmacji) C-2,
ul. Floriańska 25, tel. (+48) 12 421 92 79, www.
muzeumfarmacji.pl. Located inside a wonderful 15thcentury
building, Kraków’s brilliant Pharmacy Museum
is laid out on several floors and includes all manner
of exhibits from full-scale reproductions of ancient
apothecary shops to some beastly snakes in jars and,
on the top floor, a really good display of traditional
herbal medicines. Also of interest is the small exhibit
dedicated to the extraordinary and brave Pole, Tadeusz
Pankiewicz. Q Open 10:00 - 14:30, Tue 12:00 - 18:30.
Closed Mon. Last entrance 45 minutes before closing.
Admission 9/6zł.
Rynek Underground
richardschofieldphotography.com
Rynek Underground (Podziemia Rynku)
C-3, Rynek Główny 1, tel. (+48) 12 426 50 60,
www.podziemiarynku.com. Opened in a blaze of
publicity in September 2010, this hi-tech and highly
popular museum takes visitors four metres under
the surface of the market square to explore the
recently excavated medieval merchant stalls that
predate today’s Cloth Hall, and to experience the
city’s entire history - from its first settlers right up
to the death of Pope John Paul II - over the course of
some 6,000 metres of multimedia exhibits. Because
of the museum’s popularity, and the fact that it is
limited to only 300 people at a time, timed tickets
should be bought in advance of when you want to
visit to avoid long queues or the disappointment of
no ticket availability. This can be done either online
or from the information office confusingly located on
the opposite side of the Cloth Hall from the museum
entrance. The actual museum entrance is located
on the side opposite St. Mary’s Basilica, of course,
and once you’ve negotiated the scrum of getting
inside your experience begins with a short film
projected on a wall of smoke, before following the
trail of truly remarkable exhibits displayed in what
is essentially an archaeological site. Relying heavily
on touch-screens and holograms, highlights include
a fascinating look into life before Kraków received its
charter and the market square was laid out, displays
on trade and transport in the city, and the remains of
an 11th-century cemetery. Those more comfortable
in traditional museums will be pleased to know there
are still plenty of artefacts among the virtual exhibits,
including the usual array of coins, clothing and other
earthly remains. Don’t miss the series of short,
subtitled documentaries covering different ages of
Krakow’s history to your right before you reach the
end of the underground circuit and its inevitable café
and souvenir shops. In addition to the multi-lingual
displays, audio guides are available in English, German,
French, Russian, Italian and Spanish. Q Open
10:00 - 20:00, Tue 10:00 - 16:00. Closed every first
Tuesday of the month. Last entrance 75 minutes
before closing. Admission 17/14zł, audioguide 5zł (ID
must be left in order to take an audioguide). Tue free.
Kraków In Your Pocket krakow.inyourpocket.com
krakow.inyourpocket.com
February - March 2013

90 OLD TOWN
The Zbruch Idol
If you’re admiring Wawel Castle, you might notice the
strange, battered sculpture in front of it at Plac Bernardyński
(C-5). That’s a replica of the ‘Zbruch Idol,’ a rare and coveted
archaeological treasure from the 9th century. Why so rare?
This is one of the most important Slavic artefacts in the
world - the only sculpture in existence believed to depict a
Slavic god. For that reason, you’ll find replicas of the Zbruch
Idol in many museums, including the Moscow and Kiev
Historical Museums, however, Kraków has the distinction
of housing the original idol in its fine Archaeological Museum
on ulica Poselska (B/C-4). Commonly associated with the
god of war, Svantevit, the deity didn’t do a very good job
defending himself when crusaders tossed him into the
Zbruch river during the Christianisation of the East Slav
tribes in today’s Ukraine. Discovered during a drought near
the village of Liczkowce in 1848, the narrow, four-sided
limestone pillar 2.7 metres in height, has three tiers of
badly-weathered bas-reliefs etched on it. The bottom tier
shows a kneeling, bearded figure supporting the upper
tiers with his hands. The smaller middle tier shows a figure
with arms extended, while the large top section has a head
on each side, united under a Slavic nobleman’s hat. Each
figure possesses a different object: a ring, a drinking horn
and tiny child, a sword and horse, and an eroded solar
symbol. While interpretations differ, many believe these
tiers represent the three levels of the world, with the largest
being that of the gods. Other theoreticians have speculated
it is four separate Slavic gods, not one, while some would
claim the fact that it is made out of stone, not wood, makes
it altogether non-Slavic.
The Wawel Chakra
One of Wawel’s most well-known, but officially unendorsed
legends is that of the fabled chakra stone. A
chakra, fyi, is a natural energy point or centre of consciousness
found in every living being, as believed in
the religious, spiritual and yogic traditions of India, China,
and independent groups in the West. According to chakra
doctrine, there are seven chakra points on the body corresponding
with the seven sacred stones the Hindu deity
Shiva flung across the earth as a gift to mankind. Those
seven stones just so happened to land in some of the
most important spiritual centres on earth, namely Rome,
Mecca, Delhi, Delphi, Jerusalem, Velehrad (CZ, must have
been bad aim) and – what do you know? – the northwestern
corner of Wawel’s immaculate courtyard. At least
that’s where believers claim to have felt its cosmic energy
the strongest. Most believers simply place their hands
against the supposed energy source, though some have
gone so far as to stand on their heads with back, palms
and heels pressed against it leaving oily smudges on the
wall that reveal its location to the uninitiated (when you
enter the courtyard, turn left and make for the corner).
Doing such today won’t earn you much sympathy from
the Castle staff who consider the legend a nuisance and
have done everything they can to deflect attention away
from Wawel’s famous corner, including putting up a sign
asking people to refrain from touching it (that obviously
didn’t work), roping it off, putting museum exhibits over
top of it and having a guard stand nearby as was the case
during our last visit. Wawel tour guides are stricken from
speaking about the chakra stone, as you’ll quickly learn
if you broach the topic with one. Still don’t let that stop
you from getting your chakra on.
The Szołayski
House (Kamienica
Szołayskich) B-2, Pl.
Szczepański 9, tel. (+48)
12 292 81 83, www.
muzeum.krakow.pl. Formerly
the city’s Wyspiański
Museum, this branch of the
National Museum has been
re-christened the Szołayski
House, and presents a new
exhibition entitled ‘Forever
Young! Poland and its art around 1900.’ Focussing on Poland’s
secessionist Młoda Polska movement and Kraków’s
role as its nexus, visitors will still see plenty of Kraków’s
golden boy Stanisław Wyspiański - including some wonderful
pastel sketches and his most iconic self-portrait - as
well as satirical works associated with the legendary Green
Balloon Cabaret and other noteworthy Polish Art Nouveau
paintings. Of definite interest to Wyspiański lovers and
general fans of the period, it may not be required visiting,
but high marks for presentation, a manageable visitation
time of one hour and a central location just off the market
square make this an easy and enjoyable item to cross off
your sightseeing checklist. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sun
10:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon. Last entrance 30 minutes
before closing. Admission 9/5zł, family ticket 18zł. Sun free
for permanent exhibitions. Y
Ulica Pomorska (Former Gestapo Cells) H-1, ul.
Pomorska 2, tel. (+48) 12 633 14 14, www.mhk.pl.
‘People of Krakow in Times of Terror 1939-1945-1956’ is
an exhibit that endeavours to recount the misery and cruelty
of foreign domination and totalitarian injustice in Kraków.
Sponsored by the History Museum, the exhibit can be found
alongside the corollary Former Gestapo Cells which are free
of charge and impressive in their own right. You’ll find the
exhibits just across from Plac Inwalidów, ironically housed
in a building which was originally the headquarters for an
organization that celebrated Polish nationalism and sought
to recover territories outside of Poland with native Polish
populations. Both exhibits are accessed through the interior
courtyard behind a tunnel decorated with chilling black and
white mug shots of former prisoners held here during Nazi
occupation. In what may be more than ironic coincidence, the
hostel situated just above the exhibits is entitled “Freedom”.
Inside is a meticulously documented record of the era of
Nazi and Communist tyranny in the city, replete with audio
recreations of interrogations and mass executions. There is a
small model of an interrogation room and a plethora of short
bios and histories of the most notorious arrests, tortures,
imprisonments and executions, culminating with the last
Communist show trials in the mid-1950’s. Quotations from
victims are juxtaposed poignantly with propaganda posters
from both tyrannies.
The Former Gestapo Cells are literally the prison cells that
housed mostly political prisoners during that era. Many writings
and carved inscriptions are still visible on the walls and
even the illegible ones have been transcribed and enlarged
giving a grim first-hand account of lives (and deaths) of political
prisoners in these very rooms. There are no fairy-tale
endings here, so come prepared for an excellent but sobering
and bluntly tragic display of the history through which Kraków
has suffered. It is absolutely worth a visit and is only about
a 15-minute walk up Karmelicka Street from the Planty. Q
Open 09:00 - 16:00, Thu 12:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 -
17:00. Closed Mon. Admission 6/5zł, family ticket 12zł, Tue
free. From March admission 7/5zł, familty ticket 14zł, Tue
free. Admission to Former Gestapo Cells is free.
Kraków In Your Pocket krakow.inyourpocket.com
The glorious ensemble that is Wawel, perched on top of the
hill of the same name immediately south of the Old Town
(B-5), is by far the most important collection of buildings in
Poland. A symbol of national pride, hope, self-rule and not
least of all fierce patriotism, Wawel offers a uniquely Polish
version of the British Buckingham Palace and Westminster
Abbey rolled into one. A gorgeous assortment of predominantly
Romanesque, Renaissance and Gothic architecture
dating from around the 14th century onwards, Wawel is the
crown jewel of Kraków’s architectural treasures and required
visiting for Poles and foreigners alike.
Even for those who know or care little about the country’s
past, Poland’s ancient seat of royalty contains a vast wealth
of treasures inside its heavily fortified walls that can’t fail
to inspire. Made up of the Castle and the Cathedral, of
which the former contains most, but by no means all of
the exhibitions, Wawel’s must-see highlights include the
Cathedral’s mind-boggling interior, a tantalising glimpse
of Poland’s very own crown jewels inside the Crown Treasury
and, weather permitting, a leisurely stroll around its
courtyards and gardens. After the April 2010 Smolensk
disaster, Wawel’s Royal Crypts became the final resting
place of President Lech Kaczyński and his wife Maria; their
tombs are open to the public free of charge. A full tour of
Wawel, which is hard work but comes with its own rewards,
can take an entire day.
Castle
Castle (Zamek Królewski) B-5, Wawel Hill, tel.
(+48) 22 422 51 55 ext.219, www.wawel.krakow.
pl. Wawel’s prominence as a centre of political power
predates the building of the first Cathedral on the site in
1000AD. Evidence shows that Wawel Hill was being used as
a fortified castle before Poland’s first ruler, Mieszko I (circa
962-992) chose Wawel as one of his official residences.
The first Polish king crowned in Wawel Cathedral was the
teenage Władysław the Short (1306-1333) on January
20, 1319, beginning a tradition that would see a further
35 royal rulers crowned there up until the 17th century. All
of these rulers used the Castle as a residence, and all of
them added their own architectural details to the building.
The moving of the capital to Warsaw in 1596 and Poland’s
subsequent decline and partitioning saw the Royal Castle
fall into a state of disrepair. The occupying Austrians used
it as a military hospital and even went so far as to demolish
several buildings including a number of churches on the
site. The 20th century saw the Castle change hands on
a number of occasions, with the huge ongoing renovation
works that continue to this day being halted for a number
of reasons, most famously when the Castle was used
krakow.inyourpocket.com
Zygmunt Put/Wikipedia/CC BY-SA 3.0
WAWEL
as the headquarters of the Nazi Governor General, Hans
Frank, during the German occupation of WWII. Today’s
Castle complex is a beguiling muddle of styles including
Medieval, Romanesque, Renaissance, Gothic and Baroque.
The inner courtyard with its delightful colonnades is a true
architectural masterpiece, and the treasures contained
within do much to contribute to Kraków’s rightful status
as a truly world-class city.
Crown Treasury & Armoury (Skarbiec Koronny
i Zbrojownia). Containing Poland’s very own equivalent
of the Crown Jewels among its many wonders, the Crown
Treasury & Armoury provides a delightful excursion into the
world of the sumptuous, extravagant and brutally violent.
To the left, the Crown Treasury features several glass
cases of golden and bejewelled goblets, platters, coins and
other marvels, of which Szczerbiec - the country’s original
coronation sword - is the ultimate highlight. To the right the
Armoury contains a wealth of weaponry including some
exceedingly swanky crossbows and a frightening array of
spiky pikes, while the cellar holds a collection of cannons and
replicas of the banners captured at the Battle of Grunwald.
Q Open 09:30 - 16:00. Closed Mon, Sun. Closed February
25 - March 11. Last entrance 1 hour 15 minutes before
closing. Admission 16/9zł. Check ticket office for details
and ticket availability.
Lost Wawel (Wawel Zaginiony). This smartly
conceived and executed exhibit presents the remaining
fragments of medieval Wawel, including remnants of the
Rotunda of the Virgin Mary (Kraków’s first church). A computer
generated model of Wawel gives visitors a peek into
the early 10th century construction. Q Open 09:30 - 16:00,
Sun 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon. Last entrance 1 hour 15
minutes before closing. Admission 7/4zł, Sun free. Check
ticket office for details and for tickets.
Oriental Art (Sztuka Wschodu). This exhibit in the
western wing of the castle comprises art from the Near
East which was highly prized and fashionable amongst
the Polish nobility as it entered the kingdom via military
and trade contact with Turkey, Iran, the Caucasus and
Crimea. Here visitors will see unique collections of
Chinese ceramic and Japanese porcelain, but the part
of the exhibit that makes it essential are the trophies,
banners, weapons and other artefacts captured during
King Jan Sobieski III’s famous victory over the Turkish
army at Vienna in 1683, including Ottoman commander
Kara Mustapha Para’s sabre. Q Open 09:30 - 16:00.
Closed Mon, Sun. Last entrance 1 hour 15 minutes before
closing. Admission 7/4zł.
fot. Stanisław Michta
February - March 2013
91

WAWEL
92 93
Wawel Visitor Centre
Wawel Visitor Centre B-5, Wawel Hill, tel. (+48)
12 422 51 55 (ext. 219), www.wawel.krakow.pl.
Wawel visitor numbers are restricted and tickets are
timed in an attempt to prevent overcrowding. To guarantee
entry as well as avoiding the need to stand in long
queues, call tel. 12 422 16 97 to reserve tickets for
the exhibition you want to see at least one day before
you visit. Tickets should be collected at the Wawel Visitor
Centre Reservation Office at least 30mins before the
reserved tour time. All exhibits are self-guided except for
the Royal Apartments, however foreign language guides
can be arranged at extra cost if done in advance. In addition
to ticket sales and pick-up, the Visitor Centre is also
the place to get more info about various theme tours on
offer, pick up free maps or make use of the small post
office, gift shop and café/restaurant. Q Open 09:00
- 17:00. From March open 09:00 - 18:00. Ticket
office open 09:15 - 14:45, Sun 09:30 - 14:45.
State Rooms & Royal Private Apartments
(Reprezentacyjne Komnaty i Prywatne Apartamenty
Królewskie). Two collections in one, of which the
latter is only accessible on a specially conducted guided
tour, these are the rooms in which the royals once lived
and did their entertaining. The spectacular State Rooms
seemingly go on forever, and are full of luscious oil paintings,
intricate 16th-century Flemish tapestries, some truly
extraordinary wallpaper and the breathtaking Bird Room.
Highlights include the eerie Deputies Hall, complete with
30 wooden representations of former Kraków residents’
heads on the coffered ceiling and an original throne that
really brings the majesty of Poland’s past to life. The Royal
Private Apartments are, as one would expect, stunning.
Packed with delightful Gothic and Renaissance details,
rooms include the wonderful Guest Bedroom, complete with
original Renaissance larch wood ceiling, and the charmingly
named Hen’s Foot - two small rooms inside the 14th-century
Belvedere Tower. What these rooms were originally used
for is anyone’s guess, but the view from the windows is well
worth the visit. Q State Rooms open 09:30 - 16:00, Sun
10:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon. Open from February 12. Royal
Apts open 09:30 - 16:00. Closed Mon, Sun. Admission to
State Rooms 16/9zł, Sun free. Royal Apartments 21/16zł
(guide included).
The Senator’s Hall fot. Anna Stankiewicz
Cathedral
Cathedral (Katedra) B-5, Wawel 3, tel. (+48) 12
429 33 27, www.katedra-wawelska.pl. The scene of the
crowning of almost every Polish king and queen throughout
history, the current Wawel Cathedral is the third to be built
on the site. The first cathedral was built of wood, probably
around 1020, but certainly after the founding of the Bishopric
of Kraków in 1000AD. Destroyed by fire it was replaced by a
second cathedral that subsequently burnt down again. The
current building was consecrated in 1364 and built on the orders
of Poland’s first king to be crowned at Wawel, Władysław
the Short (aka. Władysław the Elbow-high, 1306-1333), who
was crowned among the charred rubble of its predecessor
in 1319. Considered the most important single building in
Poland, Wawel’s extraordinary Cathedral contains much that
is original, although many glorious additions have been made
over the centuries. Arguably not as stunning as that of its
cousin St. Mary’s on the Rynek, the interior of Wawel Cathedral
more than makes up for its visual shortcomings thanks to
the sheer amount of history packed inside. At its centre is the
imposing tomb of the former Bishop of Kraków, St. Stanisław
(1030-1079), a suitably grand monument dedicated to the
controversial cleric after whom the Cathedral is dedicated.
Boasting 18 chapels, all of them about as ostentatious as
you’re ever likely to see, of particular interest is the 15thcentury
Chapel of the Holy Cross, found to the right as you
enter and featuring some wonderful Russian murals as well
Cathedral Tickets
Pawel Krzan, krzan.pl, krakow4u.pl
Cathedral Tickets & Tourist Information
B-5, Wawel Hill, tel. (+48) 12 429 95 15, www.
katedra-wawelska.pl. The Cathedral and the Castle
have different ticket offices. Tickets for the Cathedral can
be purchased only in the ticket office directly opposite
the Cathedral entrance. While entrance to the actual
cathedral itself is free you will need a ticket to enter
the adjoining Royal Crypts and Sigismund Bell tower.
A single ticket covers these as well as the Cathedral
Museum. Audioguides for the Cathedral and Cathedral
Museum can be rented from the ticket office for 7/5zł
in Polish, English, German, Russian, Italian, Spanish,
Czech or French. QOpen 09:00 - 15:30, Sun 12:30 -
15:30. Tickets covering the Cathedral Museum, Royal
Crypts and Sigismund Bell cost 12/7zł. Note that the
Cathedral Museum is closed Sun, but your ticket is valid
to visit another day.
as Veit Stoss’ 1492 marble sarcophagus to Kazimierz IV.
The Royal Crypts offer a cold and atmospheric diversion
as the final resting place of kings and statesmen - most
recently fromer president Lech Kaczyński - while at the top of
a gruelling wooden series of staircases is the vast, 11 tonne
Sigismund Bell - so loud it can supposedly be heard 50km
away.QOpen 09:00 - 16:00, Sun 12:30 - 16:00.
Cathedral Museum (Muzeum Katerdralne) B-5,
Wawel 2, tel. (+48) 12 429 33 21, www.katedrawawelska.pl.
Opened in 1978 by Karol Wojtyła just before
he became Pope John Paul II, the fabulous Cathedral Museum
features a wealth of religious and secular items dating
from the 13th century onwards, all related to the ups and
downs of the Cathedral next door. Among its most valuable
possessions is the sword deliberately snapped into three
pieces at the funeral of the Calvinist king, Zygmunt August
(1548-1572) the last of the Jagiellonian dynasty, as well
as all manner of coronation robes and royal insignias too
boot. QOpen 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. Last entrance 30
minutes before closing.
Royal Crypts (Groby Królewskie) B-5, Wawel 3,
tel. (+48) 12 429 33 21, www.katedra-wawelska.pl.
While all Poland’s pre-16th kings were buried beneath or
within their hulking sarcophagi still on view in the Cathedral
today, that trend stopped in 1533 when King Sigismund I
had his wife interred in a purpose-built underground vault. He
joined her in 1548 and the crypts were expanded in the 16th,
17th and 18th centuries to house the remains of nine more
Polish kings, their wives and, in some cases, their children
thereafter. Upon the demise of the monarchy (and kingdom
itself), the honour was extended to statesmen with Prince
Józef Poniatowski (1817), Tadeusz Kościuszko (1818), poets
Adam Mickiewicz (1890) and Juliusz Słowacki (1923), Józef
Piłsudski (1935) and General Władysław Sikorski (1993) all
securing themselves a place here. Most recently - in April
of 2010 - the late President Lech Kaczyński and his wife
Maria were controversially interred here after the tragedy
in Smoleńsk; admission to their tomb (and that of Piłsudski)
is free. Descend the stairs inside the Cathedral into the
remarkably chilly chambers, beginning with the 11th century
St. Leonard’s Crypt - the best Romanesque interior in PL;
the exit deposits you back outside. QOpen 09:00 - 16:00,
Sun 12:30 - 16:00.
Sigismund Bell (Dzwon Zygmunta) B-5, Wawel 3,
www.katedra-wawelska.pl. Follow the crowds up the many
gruelling flights of Sigismund’s Belfry to reach the infamous
Sigismund Bell - a resounding symbol of Polish nationalism
ala Philadelphia’s Liberty Bell. The largest by far of five bells
hanging in the same tower, Sigismund’s Bell weighs in at
an astounding 13 tonnes (9630 kgs), measures 241cm in
height, 242cm across at the lip and varies from 7 to 21cm
thick. The bronze beauty was cast in 1520 on the orders of
King Sigismund I and is adorned in reliefs of St. Stanislav
and St. Sigismund as well as the coat of arms of Poland
and Lithuania. Rung to this day on religious and national
holidays, as well as significant moments in history (most
recently the funeral of former President Lech Kaczyński
and his wife) the bell’s peal can be heard 50km away and is
quite an enterprise to ring, requiring the strength of twelve
strong men; a dangerous job, the bell-tollers are actually
lifted from the ground by the force of the bell, resulting in
at least one famous accident when a bell-toller was flung
from the tower to his death during the interwar period. The
entrance to Sigismund Belltower is within the Cathedral and
tickets (good for the Royal Crypts as well) are purchased at
the ticket office across from the Cathedral’s main entrance.
QOpen 09:00 - 16:00, Sun 12:30 - 16:00.
Lady With an Ermine
The Wawel Dragon
WAWEL
Lady With An Ermine
(Dama z Łasiczką).
Kraków’s prized art piece is this
Leonardo Da Vinci oil painting -
one of only three in the world,
and a sentimental favourite of
Poles, reproduced and hung
in many a home. Leonardo’s
Lady has a chequered history;
when she isn’t entertaining she
always seems to be on the run
or in hiding somewhere. For
centuries she was off the map completely, before having
a rendezvous with Prince Adam Czartoryski during his Italian
holiday in 1800. Gentleman that he was, he brought
her home to his native Poland, where she was part of the
family until escaping to Paris in 1830 during the Warsaw
Insurrection. The Lady later returned to Poland in 1876
moving into what would become her official address in
Kraków’s Czartoryski Museum, only to be captured by
the Nazis and moved to Berlin. In 1946 the Americans
rescued her and returned her to Kraków where she is
today one of the city’s most beloved treasures.
Leonardo’s Lady will be on display at Wawel for the
next two years until its proper home in the Czartoryski
Museum is reopened after renovation. Exhibited on its
own alongside in depth information about its complicated
history and authenticity, the priceless painting requires
a separate admission ticket and absolutely shouldn’t
be missed. Q Open 09:30 - 16:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00.
Closed Mon. Admission 10/8zł. Sun free.
Standing on the Wisła riverbank
in the shade of Wawel Castle
is a rather ugly likeness of the
Wawel Dragon who according to
local legend once reposed in the
large cave behind him between
terrorising virgins and eating
sheep. Finally vanquished when
he was tricked into eating a
bag of sulphur, this monument
in his honour was unveiled in
1972 to a design by the local
artist Bronisław Chromy. It was
fot. Anna Stankiewicz once possible to send Smok an
SMS which would send him into
temporary raptures of fire-breathing bliss. Even better,
he now does it without checking his phone first, so just
be patient and don’t look down his throat.
Upon entering Wawel Cathedral, you may notice an odd
collection of massive bones chained up on the left outside
the entrance. While legend obviously purports these
to be the bones of Smok Wawelski - Wawel’s fearsome
dragon - more conventional wisdom has claimed they
might be parts belonging to a blue whale, woolly mammoth,
rhinoceros, or all three. At any rate, they haven’t
been removed and inspected for centuries due to their
magical properties, which are credited with protecting the
city from destruction during centuries of Polish partition
and particularly during WWII when almost every other
major city in Poland got pancaked.
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February - March 2013

94 KAZIMIERZ
OLD KAZIMIERZ TOWN
Kazimierz is the district that housed Kraków’s Jews for over
500 years. Since the 1990s it has been rediscovered, and its
expunged Jewish culture gradually reintroduced. Famous for
its associations with Schindler and Spielberg, there’s more to
the historic Jewish quarter than cemeteries and synagogues.
Lying between shops selling buttons and spanners, you’ll find
the heart of Krakow’s artsy character. Peeling façades and
wooden shutters hide dozens of cafes, many effecting an air
of pre-war timelessness. Alternative, edgy and packed with
oddities this is an essential point of interest to any visitor.
The history of Kazimierz can be traced back to 1335 when
it was officially founded as an island town by King Kazimierz
the Great. Unlike Kraków, which was largely populated by
Germans, Kazimierz was dominated by Poles. It was not
until 1495 when Jews were expelled from Kraków that they
started to arrive to Kazimierz in force. Awarded its Magdeburg
Rights, which allowed markets to be held in what is now Pl.
Wolnica, Kazimierz prospered and it is recorded as being
one of the most influential Polish towns during the middle
ages. By the 17th century Jewish life was flourishing and
numerous synagogues had been constructed. Alas, Kazimierz
was about to run out of luck. In 1651 the area was hit
by the plague, then four years later ransacked and ruined
by the Swedish invaders. Famine, floods and anti-Jewish
riots followed in quick succession, and it wasn’t long till a
mass migration to Warsaw began, leaving the once vibrant
Kazimierz a broken shell.
In 1796 Kraków came under Austrian control, and four
years later Kazimierz was incorporated into Kraków. It
was to signal the area’s rebirth. The governing Austrians
ordered Kraków’s Jews to resettle in Kazimierz, and
the area was slowly redeveloped; timber houses were
banned, streets were cobbled and walls that once ringed
Kazimierz demolished. Kazimierz was finally going places;
Plac Wolnica
Plac Wolnica D-7. Perhaps Kraków’s most forgotten
square, it’s hard to imagine that Plac Wolnica was once
equal in size and stature to Kraków’s Rynek Główny.
When laid out as the town square of Kazimierz (Rynek
Kazimierski) upon the town’s establishment in 1335,
this space measured 195m by 195m (only 5m shorter
on each side than Rynek Główny) making it the second
largest market square in Poland, if not Europe. It was
here that all the administrative and judicial authorities
of Kazimierz were established, as well as hundreds of
market stalls selling everything from fur and tobacco to
salt and amber. Hardly the bustling marketplace it once
was, today’s Plac Wolnica (named so since the end of
the 18th century when it was granted the privilege of
free trade) covers only a small fragment of the square’s
original size. However, the Town Hall has managed to survive.
Falling into ruin after Kazimierz’s incorporation into
Kraków in 1802, the Town Hall was taken over by local
Jewish authorities who renovated it into its present neo-
Renaissance style in the late 19th century. Since WWII it
has housed the recommended Ethnographic Museum.
Ironically, it has been the once more predominantly Jewish
neighbourhoods around Plac Nowy that have keyed
Kazimierz’s revival over the last decade as Plac Wolnica
has become more synonymous with parking, pigeons
and drunken derelicts. That is all beginning to change
however, with more cafés and restaurants opening
around its edges and a new pedestrian bridge connecting
Kazimierz with Podgórze over the river to the south.
Kazimierz Town Hall/Ethnographic Museum on Plac Wolnica
fot. Marcin W
in 1857 the first gas lamps lit up the streets, a tram depot
added in 1888 and in 1905 a power station. By 1910
the Jewish population stood at 32,000, a figure that was
to nearly double during the inter-war years, and a rich
cultural life arose around them. But this was to change
with the outbreak of WWII, and the Nazis’ monstrous
ideas of racial superiority. Approximately three to five
thousand of Kraków’s Jews survived the horror of the
Holocaust, a large proportion of them saved by Oskar
Schindler. Although 5,000 Jews were registered as living
in Kraków in 1950 any hopes of rekindling the past
soon vanished. The anti-Zionist policies of the post-war
communist authorities sparked waves of emigration to
Israel, and by the 1970s signs of Jewish life had all but
disappeared. The fall of communism in 1989 sparked
new hope. Kazimierz by this time had become a bandit
suburb, the sort of place you’d only visit with military
backup. But investment began trickling in and the area’s
decline was reversed; 1988 saw the first Jewish Festival
take place, and five years later the Judaica Foundation
was opened. That was also the year Spielberg arrived to
film Schindler’s List, a film that would put Kazimierz on
the world map and irrevocably change its fortunes. Today
a visit to Kazimierz ranks just as high on itineraries as a
trip to Wawel, illustrating the historical importance and
public regard the area has.
What To See
To get a feel for the area start your tour of Kazimierz at
the top of ulica Szeroka, coming from ulica Miodowa
(E-6). Here you’ll find the restaurant Dawno Temu Na
Kazimierzu (Long Ago in Kazimierz). Disguised to look
like a row of shop fronts the doorways come adorned
with traders’ names splashed on them: Holzer, Weinberg,
Nowak. It’s not hard to feel the ghosts of the past as you
walk down the Austrian cobbles. Next door stock up on
your literature by visiting Jarden, the area’s first Jewish
bookstore, or take a look at Szeroka 6 (now Klezmer Hois
hotel and restaurant). The building formerly housed the
Great Mikvah, a ritual bathhouse that gained notoriety in
1567 when the wooden floor collapsed and ten women
drowned. Modern day Szeroka has a raft of restaurants
to pick from, though you can’t do much better than visiting
Rubinstein at number 12. It’s named so for a reason.
‘Queen of Cosmetics’ Helena Rubinstein was born next
door at number 14.
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Take time out to explore the city’s two most important
synagogues - the Old Synagogue and Remuh Synagogue
- before veering to the right and onto ulica Józefa. The
street actually takes its name not after Joseph of Bible
fame, but the Habsburg Emperor Joseph II who stayed on
this street while touring his nearly conquered territories.
Find the High Synagogue at number 38, so called because
the prayer room was located on the first floor. Looted during
WWII the synagogue housed the Historic Monuments
Preservation Studio in the post-war years, only returning
to its intended function in the 1990s. Today it houses the
Austeria bookshop (see Shopping) and a small exhibition
space with rotating historical exhibits about the history of
Poland’s Jewish population. Make a right on ul. Estery to
visit Plac Nowy, or continue past the numerous cafes,
art galleries and antique shops to ul. Józefa 12 (D-6) to
find what many regard to be Kraków’s most picturesque
courtyard. Accessed via an archway, the cobbled courtyard
is instantly recognizable from Spielberg’s Schindler’s List,
particularly from the other side on ul. Meiselsa, where you’ll
find the excellent Mleczarnia cafe/beer garden and the
Judaica Foundation at no. 17. When facing the courtyard
and beer garden, Plac Nowy - the heart of the district - is
again directly to your left.
While on your Kazimierz safari do put aside time to visit the
Galicia Jewish Museum (ul. Dajwór 18, E-6) and Isaac
Synagogue (ul. Kupa 18, E-6), whose restored interiors
now house a permanent exhibition titled ‘In memory of Polish
Jews’. In 1939 a member of the synagogue committee
was executed inside these halls after refusing to set fire
to it. The synagogue is also the source of an enchanting
legend. It relates to the founder, Isaac, a devout but
impoverished Jew who once had a dream telling him if he
went to Prague he would discover great treasures buried
by a bridge. Following his instincts he set off to Prague,
only to find the bridge he had dreamt of surrounded by a
garrison of soldiers. Having spotted him loitering, one of
the soldiers challenged Isaac as to his intentions. Isaac
came clean, only for the soldier to scoff words to the
effect of ‘You’re an idiot! I’ve been having dreams all my
life about a Kraków Jew called Isaac who has treasure
hidden under his stove. But I’m not stupid enough to go
to Kraków, especially seeing that every second Jew is
called Isaac’. You can guess the rest. The moment Isaac
returned home he pulled the stove down and discovered a
wealth of riches, making him the richest man in Kazimierz.
But Kazimierz is not exclusively Jewish. Take for example
the stunning Corpus Christi Church on ul. Bożego Ciała
(D-6/7). Completed in 1405 the 70 metre tower dominates
the horizon, and work through the ages has seen a slew of
intricate details added to both the exteriors and interiors.
Try and track down the tiny church prison in which sinners
who had broken the sixth commandment would be held and
subjected to public ridicule. Also of note is a 15th century
painting, the Madonna Terribilis Daemonibus. Used in exorcisms
for the last five centuries the canvas is reputed to
have warded off a hundred thousand demons. Sticking to the
ecclesiastical theme stop by Skałka (C-7). It’s right by the altar
that Stanisław, the Bishop of Szczepanów was murdered
and then quartered at the whim of King Bolesław the Bold.
Stanisław was later beatified, becoming the patron saint of
Poland, and it became a tradition for Polish Kings to make the
pilgrimage from Wawel to this church in a bid to compensate
for the sins of Bolesław. A stone allegedly splattered with
the blood of the saint can be viewed close by. Ghouls will
also to be delighted to learn of the crypt, one of the most
high profile in Kraków. It’s here you’ll find the mortal remains
of local heroes Czesław Miłosz and Stanisław Wyspiański.
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Plac Nowy
Plac Nowy D-6. While
Kraków’s main square,
Rynek Główny, makes all
the postcards and photographs,
it is Plac Nowy
in Kazimierz that has
emerged as the spiritual
centre of Kraków
sub-culture. Lacking
www.placnowy.pl
the splendour of the Old
Town, Plac Nowy is, if
anything, something of an eyesore - a collection of
unkempt buildings surrounding a concrete square
filled with chipped green market stalls and rat-like
pigeons flapping about. If you want something
completely different from the Old Town, however,
here it is.
Plac Nowy started assuming its shape in 1808 having
been incorporated into the Jewish quarter in the
late 17th century, and its Jewish connections are
highlighted by an oft-encountered local insistence
on referring to it as Plac Żydowski (Jewish Square).
For over 200 years it has served as a market place
with its central landmark, the Okrąglak (rotunda) ,
being added in 1900. The rotunda was leased to the
Jewish community in 1927 serving as a ritual slaughterhouse
for poultry right up until Nazi occupation.
Following the war it resumed its role as the centre
of the market around it, a function it still carries
today. Butcher shops still occupy the interior, but
the real action is to be found outside where hungry
locals are happy to line-up outside the dozen or so
hole-in-the-wall fast food hatches that operate from
the rotunda, eager to taste the best ‘zapiekanka’
in Poland. Placing their orders through the small
windows you’ll find everyone from police blokes
ignoring emergency calls on their walkie-talkies,
to stick-thin party girls getting their week’s worth
of calories with this legendary Cracovian street
food. Visiting Kraków without eating a Plac Nowy
zapiekanka would be like visiting Dublin without
having a Guinness.
Surrounding the Okrąglak (rotunda) are some 310
trading stalls, and you’ll find something going on
daily from 5:30am till early afternoon. Fresh produce,
sweets and random rubbish are constant guarantees
but weekly highlights include junk/antique sale
Saturdays, Sunday’s clothing market, and Tuesday
and Friday morning’s bewildering small critter expo/
pigeon fair. A photo essay waiting to happen, arrive
early to the latter to learn the answer to the riddle,
‘How many rabbits fit in a suitcase?’
As trade dries up for the day the area takes on a
new guise: Kraków’s premier pub crawl circuit. Find
the academics with beads, beards and secondhand
books in places like Singer, Alchemia and Les Couleurs,
while the similarly dark and arty Mleczarnia
down the road (ul. Meiselsa) boasts the city’s best
beer garden during the warm months. Full of shambolic
charm, Plac Nowy is beginning to diversify to a
degree with glammy pre-club places like Le Scandale
and Baroque, and Taawa - the first danceclub to
open on Plac Nowy.
February - March 2013
95

KAZIMIERZ
96 97
Skałka
Churches
Corpus Christi Church (Kościół Bożego Ciała) D/E-
6/7, ul. Bożego Ciała 26, www.bozecialo.net. This massive
brick beauty from the 14th century takes up two entire blocks
in Kazimierz, making it one of the city’s largest holy sites. A
three-naver in the Gothic style, the pulpit features a golden boat
(with oars and a mast even) being held aloft by two mermaids.
And though there are few things we like more than mermaids,
the crowning glory has to be the towering golden altarpiece
(removed for renovation unfortunately). According to legend,
a robber who had stolen a precious relic from another church
repented on this spot, abandoning the reliquary. The priests
in pursuit saw a strange light emanating from the ground and
discovering their sacred prize, founded a church here in recognition
of the miracle. Q Open 08:30 - 12:00, 13:00 - 19:00, Sun
06:30 - 20:00. Not visiting during mass please.
Skałka (Kościół Paulinów, Pauline Church) C-7,
West end of ul. Skałeczna, tel. (+48) 12 421 72 44,
www.skalka.paulini.pl. Commonly referred to as Skałka,
this gorgeous riverside sanctuary is one of the most important
religious sites in Kraków, with a fair share of history. In
1079, King Bolesław the Bold accused the bishop of Kraków,
Stanisław Szczepański, of treason. According to legend, the
bishop was beheaded with the sword seen next to the altar
and then his body was chopped into pieces on a tree stump.
After the murder, the royal family fell under a curse. To appease
the spirit of the wronged bishop, the family built the Pauline
Church and made regular pilgrimages there to atone for the
murder. Szczepański was canonised in 1253. The Skałka crypt
is packed tight with important Poles including composer Karol
Szymanowski, writer Czesław Miłosz and painters Stanisław
Wyspiański and Jacek Malczewski. Q In February church
open Sun 06:30 - 20:00, Mon-Fri 30mins before and after
mass only. Feb mass times: 07:00, 08:00, 16:00, 19:00. From
March open 06:30 - 19:00, Sun 06:30 - 20:00. Crypt open on
request only. No visiting during mass please.
Museums & Synagogues
City Engineering Museum (Muzeum Inżynierii
Miejskiej) E-7, ul. Św. Wawrzyńca 15, tel. (+48) 12 421
12 42, www.mimk.com.pl. Evidence that Polish museums
are catching up with the modern world, this charming museum
inside an old tram depot features five separate exhibitions. The
first two deal with the history of public transport in Kraków and
the development of the Polish automotive industry through a
hangar full of old tram cars and trolleys and a large collection
of unique wheeled vehicles, the third explores the history of
printing in Kraków from the 15th to 20th centuries, while the
other two are fun, interactive exhibits aimed at children and
families. ‘Around the Circle’ teaches kids fundamental scientific
principles via 30 hands-on play stations, and the outdoor
‘Garden Of New Words’ (Ogródek Nowych Słówek) is more like
a playground for 3-5 year-olds where they’ll learn first-hand the
meaning of words such as gravity (open in nice weather only
and closed in autumn/winter). Recommended for families and
more fun than it sounds, the science exhibits will hold kids’
interest long enough for Dad to look at car engines, while Mom
dreams of escaping on that motorbike. QOpen 10:00 - 16:00.
Closed Mon. Admission 8/5.5zł, family ticket 24zł. Y
Ethnographic Museum (Muzeum Etnograficzne)
D-7, Pl. Wolnica 1, tel. (+48) 12 430 55 63, www.etnomuzeum.eu.
Founded in 1911 by the teacher and folklore
enthusiast Seweryn Udziela (1857-1937) and located inside
Kazimierz’s former Town Hall, this cultural highlight usually
gets overlooked by tourists - wrongfully so. There’s not
enough space here to wax lyrical about the delights inside,
including beautiful recreations of 19th-century peasant
houses, folk costumes, some extraordinary examples of the
so-called Nativity Cribs, the breathtaking top floor collection
of folk art and two reproduced folk rooms - Izba Podhalańska
and Izba Krakowska. With many of the exhibits explained in
good English, all we need say is it does a highly commendable
job of promoting and explaining Polish folk culture, and can’t
come recommended enough. A separate gallery for changing
exhibits can be found nearby at ul. Krakowska 46. QOpen
11:00 - 19:00, Thu 11:00 - 21:00, Sun 11:00 - 15:00. Closed
Mon. Admission 9/5zł, Sun free for permanent exhibitions.
Galicia Jewish Museum (Żydowskie Muzeum
Galicja) E-6, ul. Dajwór 18, tel. (+48) 12 421 68 42,
www.galiciajewishmuseum.org. The brainchild of awardwinning
photo-journalist Chris Schwarz, The Galicia Jewish
Museum is comprised of some 135 photographs aimed at
keeping alive the memory of Jewish life in the south of Poland
in the aftermath of the Holocaust. Schwarz’s images of forgotten
cemeteries, derelict synagogues and death camps prove
haunting and sober viewing, and deserve to be an essential part
of any Kazimierz tour. Though his exhibition serves as the focal
point, the converted warehouse also houses temporary exhibits,
a café, information point and a bookstore selling a range of titles
of Jewish interest. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Admission 15/10zł,
family ticket 30zł. Children under 7 free. Guided tours for groups
of over 10 cost 13.50/8zł per person; individual guided tours
cost 60-100zł depending on tour time. Tours available in English
and German (book in advance for German). Y
Isaac’s Synagogue (Synagoga Izaaka) E-6, ul.
Kupa 18, tel. (+48) 12 430 22 22, www.chabadkrakow.
pl. Isaac’s Synagogue, built in the early Judaic-Baroque
style, was opened in 1644, and was a gift to the city from a
wealthy Jew, Izaak Jakubowicz. It is perhaps the most strikingly
beautiful of the Kazimierz synagogues, decoratively
endowed with arabesques and arches yet retaining a sober
linearity, especially within. There is much to admire, not least
the fragments of original wall scriptures. Rabbi Eliezer Gurary
runs the place with a smile and is usually on hand to provide
information to all comers. A shop inside sells kosher food,
wine and sweets, Jewish calendars and other items. Q Open
08:30 - 18:00, Fri 08:30 - 14:30. Closed Sat. Admission 7/4zł.
New Jewish Cemetery E-6, ul. Miodowa 55. This
enormous cemetery was established in 1800 and was the
burial ground for many of Kraków’s distinguished Jews in the
19th and early 20th centuries. Its story takes on a darker
aspect with the decimation of the Jewish population between
1939 and 1945. Many of the tombstones are actually no
more than memorials to entire families that were killed in the
Holocaust, which now lie in overgrown clusters. The rejuvenation
of Kazimierz has not fully penetrated the walls of the
New Cemetery, but there are many newly-lit candles burning
over the headstones. QOpen 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat.
The Old Synagogue
Old Synagogue (Stara Synagoga) E-6, ul. Szeroka
24, tel. (+48) 12 422 09 62, www.mhk.pl. Built on the
cusp of the 15th and 16th centuries, the Old Synagogue
serves as the oldest surviving example of Jewish religious
architecture in Poland and is home to a fine series of
exhibits that showcase the history and traditions of Polish
Judaism. It is no longer a working synagogue. The English
explanations assume no great depth of knowledge on
the reader’s part and are therefore a perfect primer on
the subject. In the midst of all the glass cases stands the
bimah enclosed in an elaborate, wrought iron balustrade.
There are also temporary exhibitions held from time to time
particularly during the city’s Jewish festival held towards the
end of June. The bookshop sells a fine selection of works
related to Jewish Kraków, in a number of languages. Q
Open 09:00 - 16:00, Mon 10:00 - 14:00, Fri 10:00 - 17:00.
Last entrance 30 minutes before closing. Admission 9/7zł,
family ticket 18zł, Mon free. Y
Remuh Synagogue & Cemetery (Synagoga Remuh
z Cmentarzem) E-6, ul. Szeroka 40, tel. (+48)
12 429 57 35. The smallest but most active synagogue in
Kazimierz, dating from 1553. Under normal circumstances,
if you enter quietly, you may even be afforded a glimpse of
a service. Currently however, restoration works mean you’ll
need to make an appointment to see the interior or stroll
through the cemetery which was in use until 1800. This
holy burial ground was spared by the vandalism of the Nazis
because many of the gravestones had been buried to avoid
desecration during the 19th century occupation of Kraków by
Austrian forces. Most famous is the tomb of the 16th century
Rabbi Moses Isserles, better known as the Remuh. Beside
him lies his wife, Golda Auerbach, in the cemetery’s oldest
tomb. QOpen 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat. Admission 5/2zł.
Temple Synagogue (Synagoga
Tempel) D-6, ul.
Miodowa 24, tel. (+48) 12
429 57 35. Kazimierz’s newest
synagogue dates back to 1862,
with several later expansions,
the most recent of which was
in 1924. Under Nazi occupation
the building was used as a warehouse
and stables, yet survived
the war and regular services
were even held here until 1968,
before stopping completely a
decade later. Since restoration, the gilded woodwork
within now plays host to many concerts and occasional
religious ceremonies, particularly during the annual Jewish
Festival of Culture. QOpen 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat.
Admission 5/2zł.
Useful Contacts
KAZIMIERZ
City Tourist Information D-6, ul. Józefa 7, tel.
(+48) 12 422 04 71, www.infokrakow.pl. Information
on what to see and what’s going on in Kazimierz.
QOpen 09:00 - 17:00.
Jarden E-6, ul. Szeroka 2, tel. (+48) 12 421 71 66,
www.jarden.pl. Jewish bookshop that also arranges
guided Schindler’s List tours and trips to Auschwitz-
Birkenau. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 18:00.
Jewish Community (Gmina Wyznaniowa
Żydowska) D-7, ul. Skawińska 2, tel. (+48) 12 429
57 35, www.krakow.jewish.org.pl. It has around 160
members and organises events and gatherings for the
Jewish community in Kraków. QOpen 09:00 - 14:00.
Closed Sat, Sun.
Jewish Community Centre (Centrum
Społeczności Żydowskiej w Krakowie) D-6,
ul. Miodowa 24, tel. (+48) 12 370 57 70, www.
jcckrakow.org. The headquarters of Kraków’s surviving
and strengthening Jewish community. JCC organises
numerous events (check website for calendar) and
exhibits, arranges tours, and is home to a large library
of Jewish related materials. Q Open 10:00 - 20:30, Fri
10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Judaica Foundation D-6, ul. Meiselsa 17, tel.
(+48) 12 430 64 49, www.judaica.pl. This civic and
cultural centre hosts lectures and exhibits reflecting
Jewish life past and present, and includes a cafe with a
great little rooftop terrace - one of Kazimierz’s best-kept
secrets. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 14:00.
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February - March 2013

98 PODGÓRZE
OLD PODGÓRZE TOWN
Krakus Mound
Krakus Mound (Kopiec
Krakusa) K-5,
above ul. Maryewskiego.
The oldest structure
in Kraków, Krakus
Mound is one of two
prehistoric monumental
mounds in the city and
is also its highest point,
providing incredible panoramic views from its worn summit.
Sixteen metres high, sixty metres wide at the base
and eight metres wide at the top, Kopiec Krakusa stands
in scruffy contrast to the manicured modern mounds
elsewhere in the city, with a muddy path winding around
to a bald peak. The site of pagan ritual for centuries,
the mound retains an ancient, evocative atmosphere
amplified by the surroundings of the cliffs of Krzemionki,
the green rolling fields of Płaszów, the grim Liban quarry
and the Podgórze cemetery. With incredible views of the
city, Krakus Mound lies at the centre of one of Kraków’s
least explored and most captivating areas and should be
visited by anyone looking to take a rewarding detour from
the beaten path. It can be approached most easily from
the major intersection of al. Powstańców Wielopolskich
and ul. Wielicka via ul. Robotnicza to the steps of al. Pod
Kopcem (K-5), or by following ul. Dembowskiego (J-5) to
the pedestrian bridge over al. Powstańców Wielopolskich
to the base of the mound.
The result of great human effort and innovative engineering,
Krakus Mound has long been a source of legend and
mystery. Connected with the popular story of Kraków’s
mythical founder, King Krak or Krakus, the mound is said
to have been constructed in honour of his death when
noblemen and peasants filled their sleeves with sand and
dirt, bringing it to this site in order to create an artificial
mountain that would rule over the rest of the landscape.
In the interwar period, extensive archaeological studies
were undertaken to try to date the mound and verify if
there was truth to the legend that Krak was buried beneath
it. Though much about the ingenuity of the mound’s
prehistoric engineers was revealed, no trace of a grave
was found, however excavations were not completely
comprehensive. A bronze belt was unearthed in the
lower part of the mound and dated to the 8th century,
and there is general agreement today that the mound
was created by a Slavonic colony sometime between the
latter half of the 7th century and the early 10th century,
though other hypotheses credit the structure to the
Celts. Originally there were four smaller mounds around
the base of Krak’s mound, however these were levelled
in the mid-19th century during the construction of the
city’s first fortress which surrounded the area with a wall
embankment and a moat (later levelled in 1954). The
location of the Krakus Mound and the Wanda Mound in
Mogiła (T-4) - the city’s other, lesser prehistoric earthwork
- hardly seems accidental. In addition to being an
ideal vantage point over the surrounding valleys, when
standing on the Krakus Mound at dawn on June 20th or
21st the sun can be seen rising directly behind Wanda’s
Mound; conversely, standing on Wanda’s Mound at dusk,
the sun sets in a straight line behind Krak’s Mound. The
legend of Krak’s mound inspired the modern creation of
burial mounds for Kościuszko and Piłsudski and today
they remain one of Poland’s greatest archaeological
mysteries.
When Spielberg came to
Kraków to produce his awardwinning
film ‘Schindler’s List,’
the result was a fast and
far-reaching revitalisation of
Kazimierz, Kraków’s former
Jewish district. Ironically, however,
it didn’t reach across the
river to Podgórze, despite the
fact most of the film’s historic
events took place there, as
did much of the filming. As
Kazimierz became supersaturated
with tourists and
bars, predictions were that
Podgórze would emerge as Kraków’s next hip bohemian
district; however aside from a small stable of rogue cafes,
things were slow to develop and for a long time getting off the
beaten path in Kraków was as easy as crossing the river to
Podgórze. Since the opening of Schindler’s Factory as a major
attraction and the construction of the Bernatek footbridge
creating a direct artery of tourist traffic into the district, that
has begun to change, but Podgórze remains Kraków’s most
mysterious and underappreciated neighbourhood.
A district rich in natural beauty, tragic history and unusual attractions,
the first signs of settlement in Podgórze date from
over ten thousand years ago, though the Swedish invasion in
the 17th century saw much of Podgórze levelled. Awarded the
rights of a free city in 1784 by the Austrian Emperor Joseph
II, the town was eventually incorporated as Kraków’s fourth
district in 1915, and the following decades saw its aggressive
development; quarries and brickworks were constructed, and
a string of military forts added, of which Fort Benedict (K-5)
is the only still standing. An indication of Podgórze’s age is
Krakus Mound (K-5), excavations of which have dated it to
the Iron Age. However, the trespasses of more recent history
are what people most associate with the district.
On March 21, 1941, the entire Jewish population residing in
Kazimierz were marched across the Powstanców Śląskich
bridge and crammed into what was to become known as the
Podgórze Ghetto. Traces of the Ghetto still exist, including a
prominent stretch of the wall on ul. Lwowska (K-4). Liquidated
on March 14, 1943, the majorioty of the Ghetto’s residents
were murdered there, while others met death in the nearby
Liban work quarry and Płaszów concentration camp, or in
the gas chambers of Auschwitz-Birkenau. The opening of
the Schindler’s Factory Museum (K-4, Lipowa 4) has, in
addition to helping the city bury the ghosts of the Holocaust,
finally endorsed Podgórze’s status as a bona fide tourist
destination. With plenty to see and do, you could easily spend
an entire day exploring Podgórze and a walk up into the hills
is not only a great way to get ‘off the beaten path’ - it’s also
Kraków’s most evocative area.
Churches
St. Benedict’s K-5, Lasota Hill. Take any of the dark,
daunting trails off ul. Rękawka into the wooded limestone
cliffs of Krzemionki to discover one of Kraków’s oldest, smallest
and most mysterious churches in the clearing next to
the St. Benedict Fort. The date of the present structure has
been hard to determine, but the curious site certainly dates
back to the 11th century and a leading theory attributes it
to the Benedictine monks of Tyniec. Saved from destruction
and dereliction by a local priest the tiny, cramped interior -
consisting of only a small nave and chancel with a painting
of St. Benedict over the pulpit - has been restored, but can
only be accessed twice a year: on St. Benedict’s Name Day
(July) and, ironically, during the pagan Rękawka festival held
the first Tuesday after Easter.
Kraków In Your Pocket krakow.inyourpocket.com
St. Joseph’s J-5, ul. Zamojskiego 2, tel. (+48) 12
656 17 56, www.jozef.diecezja.pl. Presiding over
the heart of historic Podgórze on the south side of the
district’s main square, this unmissable neo-gothic juggernaut
was built between 1905-09 on the design of Jan
Sas-Zubrzycki. Dominated by an 80 metre clock tower,
elaborate masonry dressing, gargoyles and sculptures
of saints, St. Joseph’s slender, yet imposing brick facade
rates among the most beautiful in Kraków and is
gorgeously illuminated at night. The interior is no less
beautiful and visitors should also note the abandoned
1832 belfry that stands on a rocky outcropping behind
the church - all that remains of the original temple, dismantled
due to design flaws.QOpen during mass only
and by prior arrangement.
Museums
Museum of Contemporary Art (MOCAK Muzeum
Sztuki Współczesnej w Krakowie) K-4, ul. Lipowa
4, tel. (+48) 12 263 40 00, www.mocak.pl. Opened
on May 20th 2011, Krakow’s Museum of Contemporary
Art (MOCAK) does not disappoint, receiving rave reviews
from all who have been thus far. Tucked behind Schindler’s
Factory, the building alone will impress with it’s avant-garde
styling and ultra-modern layout. The museum boasts a large
and fine permanent collection of modern art highlighting
both Polish and international artists, plus the Mieczysław
Porębski Library and its collection of works on art theory
and history. Several provocative temporary exhibitions
are ever-changing: check their website for details. Despite
the relatively late closing hour (19:00), make sure to leave
yourself plenty of time to enjoy all the museum has to
offer. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. Last entrance
one hour before closing. Admission 10/5zł, family ticket
20zł. Tue free.
krakow.inyourpocket.com
Schindler’s Factory (Fabryka Schindlera) K-4,
ul. Lipowa 4, tel. (+48) 12 257 10 17, www.mhk.pl.
After years of preparation, the Oskar Schindler Enamelled
Goods Factory (to give it its full name) re-opened to the
public as a world-class museum in June 2010. The story of
Oskar Schindler and his employees is one which has been
well-known since the book and film by Thomas Keneally and
Steven Spielberg (whose film Schindler’s List was shot almost
entirely in Kraków), and while that story is now covered
in detail on the original site, the museum casts the city of
Kraków in the main role of its permanent exhibition titled,
‘Kraków During Nazi Occupation 1939-1945.’ Individual histories
of Kraków’s wartime inhabitants guide visitors through
the exhibit which covers the war of 1939, Kraków’s role as
the seat of the General Government, everyday life under
occupation, the fate of the Jews and the city’s underground
resistance using vast archival documents, photos, radio and
film recordings, period artefacts and dynamic multimedia
installations. A separate section of the factory is reserved
for film screenings, lectures and other cultural events,
and another large part of the factory was controversially
converted to host MOCAK - the contemporary art museum
which opened in spring 2011.
The development of the factory into a world-class educational
and cultural site is great news not only for tourists,
but also for Podgórze and the healing process of the city
itself as it reconciles one of the most painful chapters of
its history. A must-visit, this is one of the most fascinating
museums in the entire country and with that in mind we
recommend that you reserve at least two hours if you want
to see everything. Note that visiting groups need to book in
advance using the museum website. Q Open 10:00 - 18:00,
Mon 10:00 - 14:00. Last entrance 90 minutes before closing.
Admission 17/14zł, family ticket 45zł. From March admission
19/16zł, family ticket 50zł. Guided tours in English for groups
of over 15 people, 150zł. Mon free for permanent exhibitions.
Places of Interest
Bednarski Park J-5,
Entrances from ul. Parkowa
and ul. Zamojskiego.
Opened with
great fanfare at the end
of the 19th century, the
park’s founder Wojciech
Bednarski was reportedly
carried around like
a winning quarterback
while newspapers from as far away as St. Petersburg applauded
the park’s establishment. Though the park itself
doesn’t offer much more than a partially paved path to walk
on, this is one of the most beautiful, captivating natural
spaces in Kraków with limestone cliffs, over one hundred
different species of tree and the remains of an 18th century
fortification. Covering eight and half hectares, Bednarski
Park is lush and wild with trails winding everywhere, in turns
shadowy and chimerical, or open with fine overviews of the
city from its various ridges.
Father Bernatek Footbridge (Kładka Ojca Bernatka)
J-4. September 30, 2010 saw the grand opening
of (gasp!) a new footbridge in the city. Not that everyone’s
been crying out for one, the brand new Father Bernatek
Footbridge (Kładka Ojca Bernatka) straddling the Wisła
and linking Kazimierz with Podgórze in the south of the city
occupies a site between ul. Mostowa and ul. Budzińskiego
where several road bridges have stood in its place before,
the last being dismantled way back in 1925. The leaf-shaped,
February - March 2013
99

PODGÓRZE
PODGÓRZE
100 101
Plac Bohaterów Getta
130m, 700-tonne structure which has been built to accommodate
both pedestrians and cyclists was designed by a
local company led by the architect Andrzej Getter, coming
in slightly over budget at a sobering 30 million złoty, a
controversial sum for many Kraków dwellers who believe
the money could be spent more wisely and who also object
to the name. [The name of the bridge honours a certain
Laetus Bernatek (1847-1927), a monk and pharmacist who
helped build a hospital in the city among other philanthropic
deeds.] Others disagree, seeing the money well spent as
part of the continuing revitalisation of both areas at either
end. Among the other names bandied about but discarded
were ‘Podgórze Footbridge’ and ‘Charles Footbridge’,
although local revellers refer to it as the ‘Party Bridge’, a
fitting moniker as its presence speeds up the process of
Ghetto Wall Fragments K-5, ul. Limanowskiego 69.
An even longer and arguably more evocative section of the
original ghetto wall can be seen in the playground behind
the primary school at ul. Limanowskiego 62. Those looking
to continue their creepy tour of the area should climb the
steep trail leading from the back of the playground straight
up to the Old Podgórze Cemetery, to the right from which is
the abandoned Fort Benedict.
Liban Quarry
Zygmunt Put/Wikipedia/CC-BY-SA 3.0
Plac Bohaterów Getta (Plac Zgody) (Ghetto
Heroes Square) J-4. First plotted out in 1836, this
public square just across the river from the Powstańców
Śląskich bridge has had a turbulent history, with turns
as a marketplace, horse stable, execution site, taxi rank
and bus terminal over the years. During the time of the
Kraków Ghetto it was at once the source of the residents’
greatest relief and also the scene of their greatest horrors
and humiliation. As the ghetto’s largest open space,
Plac Zgody was a place for people to socialise, relax and
escape the oppressive overcrowding of the tenements.
It was also the site of families being torn apart, mass
deportations to the death camps, beatings and executions.
Following deportations and the final liquidation
of the ghetto, Plac Zgody was strewn with furniture,
clothes, luggage and other belongings that the victims
had been forced to abandon - this image would later
inspire the redesign of the square. Though after the war
the name of Plac Zgody was changed to Plac Bohaterów
Getta (Ghetto Heroes Square) and a small monument
was erected, the space’s historical significance never
felt more pertinent than its post-war use as a public
toilet or parking lot. Finally, after decades of neglect,
Plac Bohaterów Getta was renovated in 2005, sparking
significant controversy over the design. Nonetheless,
today it is perhaps the most iconic place in Podgórze.
Laid out with 70 large well-spaced metal chairs meant
to symbolize departure, as well as subsequent absence,
the entire square has essentially been turned into an
evocative memorial to the victims of the Kraków Ghetto.
A place for candles and reflection was also added within
the small, former bus terminal building at the north end
of the square, however it still goes sadly ignored (see if
you can do something about that).
During the war, Plac Bohaterów Getta 6 was the regular
meeting point of the Jewish Combat Organisation
(ŻOB), as noted by a plaque on the front of the building.
Kraków’s Jewish underground resistance orchestrated
acts of sabotage outside the ghetto, with their greatest
success coming in December 1942 when a grenade
detonated inside the Cyganeria Café - a popular meeting
place for Nazi officers on ul. Szpitalnia - killing and wounding
several Germans. Plac Bohaterów Getta 18 - on the
south side of the square at the corner of ul. Targowa - was
the site of Pankiewicz’s famous Apteka Pod Orłem, now
a branch of the Kraków History Museum with exhibits
depicting life in the ghetto and Płaszów concentration
camp (for more see Podgórze Museums). Every year on
the Sunday following the March 14th liquidation of the
ghetto, a remembrance parade honouring the victims
sets off from Plac Bohaterów Getta to the Holocaust
monument on the site of the former Płaszów camp.
getting from the clutch of bars and clubs situated at either
end. A second footbridge is planned for the city, although
disputes over where exactly to put the thing are ongoing.
Fort Benedict K-5, Lasota Hill. The only surviving
fortress of three that were built in Podgórze in the mid-
19th century to protect the Vistula river and the road to
Lwów, Fort Benedict is one of only a few citadels of the
‘Maximillion Tower’ type left anywhere. An impressive
two-storey brick artillery tower in the shape of a sixteensided
polygon with a round interior yard, the fort has a
total surface area of 1500 square metres. Atop the
Krzemionki cliffs on Lasota Hill, it takes its name from
nearby St. Benedict’s church. The fortress quickly lost
its usefulness in the 1890s and has since been used as
Austrian military barracks and was even converted into
apartments in the 1950s, though today it lies in general
dereliction, filled with abandonned furniture and building
materials. After numerous projects involving the fort
failed to develop, care of Fort Benedict has recently been
transferred back to the city of Kraków, with plans for its
renovation awaiting approval. At the moment, however, it
remains impenetrable to tourists, adding to the scenery
and mystique of one of Kraków’s most surprising and
strange corners.
Ghetto Wall Fragments K-4, ul. Lwowska 25-29.
Kraków’s most prominent evidence of its ghetto is this
12-metre stretch of the original ghetto wall. In 1983, a commemorative
plaque was raised, which reads in Hebrew and
Polish: “Here they lived, suffered and died at the hands of the
German torturers. From here they began their final journey
to the death camps.”
New Podgórze Cemetery (Cmentarz Podgórski)
K-5, ul. Wapienna 13, tel. (+48) 12 656 17 25. Behind
Kopiec Krakusa on the Krakus foothills, the New Cemetery
is a large, picturesque memorial park filled with monumental
sculpture. Opened in 1900, the cemetery originally had a
strict Catholic character with a separate designated area
for Protestants and a distinct section for suicides (marked
‘VIII-a’). Today it continues to grow and is ideal place to visit
if you are here on All Souls’ Day (Nov. 1, 2) due to its basinshape
creating an amphitheatre of coloured candlelight.
QOpen 07:00 - 18:00.
Old Podgórze Cemetery (Stary Cmentarz Podgórski)
K-5, Corner of ul. Limanowskiego and ul. Powstanców
Wielopolskich. Podgórze’s primary necropolis
for over a hundred years, the Old Podgórze Cemetery is/was
the resting place of the formerly independent city’s most
distinguished citizens. Established in the late 18th century,
the cemetery’s grand arched gateway is set back from a busy
intersection on a hill behind the iconic sculpture of ‘God the
Father.’ Unfortunately, with the exception of a few, many of
the most notable graves have been lost during the boneyard’s
turbulent history. Crossing the stone entry, the first grave on
the right is the resting place of Edward Dembowski - leader
of the 1846 Kraków Uprising, laid to rest here in a collective
grave with 28 insurgents shot by the Austrian Army; nearby
is the Bednarski family vault, where Wojciech - founder of
Podgo’s most beautiful park - reposes. Closed upon reaching
capacity in 1900, the Germans levelled a third of the
cemetery during WWII while building a railway. Even more
grievous was the site’s reduction to a fraction of its original
size during the construction of al. Powstańców Wielopolskich
in the 1970s, when almost all the graves were destroyed or
strewn haphazardly about. Like much of the district today,
the cemetery’s charm lies in the nostalgic character of its
general neglect and vanishing beauty. QOpen 07:00 - 18:00.
Starmach Gallery
(Former Zucher
Synagogue) J-4, ul.
Węgierska 5, tel. (+48)
12 656 43 17, www.
starmach.eu. Built between
1879-1881, this
unique brick building was
one of four former prayer
houses within the area of the ghetto, the others being located
at numbers 6 and 7 on the very same street and nearby at ul.
Krakusa 7. Religious practise was outlawed by the Germans
during the war (though it continued in secret) and the synagogue
was converted into a warehouse and then a factory.
When the ghetto was established, many valuable religious
artefacts from Kazimierz synagogues were transferred here
for protection, however the eventual liquidation of the ghetto
guaranteed that they were looted and lost. After the war the
building slowly fell into dereliction until Andrzej and Teresa
Starmach rescued it in 1996, restoring the facade and
turning it into one of the largest and most renowned private
art galleries in PL. The exhibitions are always outstanding
and a visit is highly recommended. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00.
Closed Sat, Sun.
Allie_Caulfield
Liban Quarry J/K-5, ul. Za Torem. One of the creepiest,
most forgotten places in Kraków, the Liban Quarry
should first and foremost be a place of remembrance for
the victims of the Nazi labour camp that operated here
during Kraków’s WWII occupation. That said, the sight lies
in overgrown abandon today, slowly becoming a nature
sanctuary for waterfowl, birds of prey, pheasants and
other various creatures (we’ve even seen an unattended
horse grazing here) as the city seems to have forgotten it
completely. Incredible limestone cliffs, ponds and dense
vegetation are as breath-taking as the rusting refinery
equipment, fenceposts, gravestones and tangles of
barbed wire that can still be found amongst the brush here.
The limestone company ‘Liban and Ehrenpreis,’ run by
two well-known Jewish industrial families from Podgórze,
established a quarry here in 1873. By the end of the 19th
century a complex of buildings was established within
the quarry and a railway line laid as the families enjoyed
an excellent reputation locally and abroad. However,
during Nazi occupation, Liban was set-up as a cruel
penal camp where 800 young Poles were kept prisoner
from 1942 to 1944 performing forced labour. A small,
discreet, overgrown and easily overlooked memorial for
21 inmates executed during the liquidation of the camp
lies beside the cliffside at the Za Torem end of the site.
In 1993 Steven Spielberg used Liban as the set of all
the scenes from Schindler’s List that take place in the
Płaszów concentration camp. Not wanting to use the
nearby site of the camp itself out of respect, it must
have taken little imagination on his part to settle upon
Liban. During filming 34 barracks and watchtowers were
set-up around the quarry, and though most of the set was
subsequently removed, some traces remain confusingly
mixed with the genuine historical leftovers from the war,
making it unclear just how uncomfortable you should feel
as you walk amongst the many gallows-like fenceposts
strung with barbed wire and rusty machinery. Certainly,
the most disturbing site is the central pathway paved
with Jewish headstones, which we can put you at ease
by assuring you is not genuine. An incredibly evocative,
yet peaceful and beautiful site, Liban allows you to explore
Kraków’s World War II history on your own terms,
interpreting it as you like without the hand-holding of
history books or tourist bureaus. Enter the quarry at your
own risk by following a trail from Krak’s Mound toward
Podgórze cemetery along the rim of and into the quarry,
or try your luck from ul. Za Torem; though there is nothing
unlawful about being in the quarry, city employees
of the Housing Office buildings at the quarry’s entrance
have been known to aggravatedly deny entry or ask
people to leave.
Kraków In Your Pocket krakow.inyourpocket.com
krakow.inyourpocket.com
February - March 2013

102 SALWATOR
OLD SALWATOR TOWN
Being that Salwator has always been Kraków’s most green,
ancient and affluent district, it’s a bit of a wonder why more
people don’t visit. Having done the hard but rewarding work
of researching this seldom written about area, however,
we’re happy to roll out the red carpet. Certainly the area’s
main attraction is the stunning Kościuszko Mound and surrounding
fortifications, but the scenic ascent to the mound
is almost as pleasant as the earthwork itself and makes
a perfect escape from the sometimes frenetic bustle of
the city centre. Essentially comprising one long, virtually
traffic-less, tree-lined avenue flanked by ancient churches,
atmospheric cemeteries and grand villas - which begins at
the city’s largest sacral complex and summits atop the city’s
most magnificent overlook - Salwator should hold plenty of
enchantment for visitors.
What to See
A perfect warm-weather expedition, exploring Salwator
is more of a leisure activity than a sightseeing excursion,
with its appeal lying in strolling shady lanes and taking in
scenic views more than studying historical exhibits (though
there’s the chance for that too). Picturesquely perched on
the western fringe of the city-centre, well-removed from the
tourist track, the small district of Salwator officially occupies
St. Bronisława’s Hill in the district of Zwierzyniec, which rises
above the Old Town between the Wisła River and the Rudawa
- one of its tributaries. As such, a journey to Salwator starts
at their confluence and the majestic Norbertine Monastery
(G/H-4) - Kraków’s largest sacral complex. Consecrated way
back at the end of the 12th century, the Norbertine Sisters
of this immaculate convent were the first female religious
congregation in Poland and once held much sway and influence
over the area. Until as recently as 1910, when Kraków’s
mayor snatched and incorporated the territory into the city
proper, the Sisters of St. Norbert owned the whole area of
Salwator and surrounding Zwierzyniec. Before that time the
Norbertine complex extended across ul. Kościuszko and, in
addition to the convent’s Church of St. Augustine and John
the Baptist, also included the two churches found at the foot
of St. Bronislawa’s Hill (on the street of the same name). On
the left side of ul. Św. Bronisławy (G-3) stands the small and
unique Chapel of Saint Margaret, which is included on the
Małopolska Wooden Architecture Route, while on the right is
the hoary Church of the Holy Saviour.
Continue up ul. Św. Bronisławy (as it turns into Al. Waszyngtona)
about 500 metres on the left and you’ll arrive at the
Salwator Cemetery - perhaps Kraków’s most picturesque
necropolis. However, as you’re en route, don’t miss taking
a quick look at the villas on ul. Gontyna (G-3) - a small
looping alley off the main lane. Though the name ‘Salwator’
has more recently been applied to much of the surrounding
district of Zwierzyniec (for marketing reasons), it originally
referred strictly to this small ‘Garden City’ of 30 villas built
to much hullaballoo after a 1910 design competition. One
of Kraków’s most exclusive residential streets, ul. Gondyna
has been home to many local luminaries and celebrities, and
its villas are also no stranger to architecture textbooks. The
highlight of the bunch (for us at least) is the manor on the
right-hand crescent with a large bust of wild-haired Medusa
on the facade. Perhaps those penetrating eyes are the same
that filled Salwator Cemetery (G-3) with an unusually great
number of statues and stone effigies.
Continue up this avenue lined with ancient trees to where it
bears right and you’re at the foot of the Kościuszko Mound
and fortifications (F-3), one of Kraków’s most unique attractions.
While you’re at the top, take a turn away from the
Old Town for a moment and you’ll see the rolling expanse of
Getting There
Lying just west of the Old Town, Salwator is about a
twenty-five minute walk from the main market square
and can be easily accessed by taking trams 1, 2 or
6 to their terminus at the Salwator roundabout (H-3).
Alternatively, surefooted or cycling sightseers can follow
the recreational path along the Wisła River from Wawel
Castle to the Norbertine Monastery, where it ends at the
Rudawa tributary. Bear in mind that the path up Saint
Bronisława’s Hill to Kościuszko Mound is a slight grade
1.6 kilometres in length and may be uncomfortable for
anyone awaiting a hip replacement. It is possible to drive
to the foot of the mound, but making the journey on foot
or by bike is certainly the recommended method for
those with fine weather who are feeling up to the task.
Wolski Forest (Las Wolski) with the Cameldolese Monastery
and Piłsudski Mound peaking out of the trees to the west.
The road that lead you this far will also take you deep enough
to find these further Zwierzyniec sights, as well as Kraków’s
Zoo, but bear in mind that you could easily spend an additional
day just hiking throughout this scenic woodland.
Norbertine Monastery G/H-4, ul. Kościuszki 88, tel.
(+48) 12 427 13 18, www.norbertanki.w.krakow.pl.
Founded by the once-powerful Premonstratensian Sisters
of Saint Norbert’s in 1148, this fortified monastery has been
destroyed and rebuilt several times throughout the centuries,
seemingly irresistible to the marauding Tartar hordes whose
proficiency at razing architectural marvels has been well noted
by history. The structures seen today within the monastery’s
many courtyards and high, crenulated walls were rebuilt at
the turn of the 17th century and the interiors date to the 18th
century. The baroque Church of St. Augustine and John the
Baptist (open during mass only) can be entered through the
13th century Romanesque portal beneath the tower or through
the outer courtyard. There have been two sisters canonised
from the Cracovian order of Norbertine Sisters, Saint Emilia
Podoska and Saint Bronisława - renowned for her righteousness.
Some of Kraków’s most important traditions are also
connected with the monastery: here and along the banks of
the Rudawa the Emmaus festival has been celebrated every
year since the 12th century on the Monday after Easter (April
9th, 2012). It is also from here that the Lajkonik procession
- the foremost symbol of Kraków - sets off each year in June,
due no doubt to the convent’s magnetism towards Tartars.
Chapel of St. Margaret (Kaplica św. Małgorzaty)
G-3, ul. Św. Bronisławy 8, tel. (+48) 12 424 43 60, www.
parafiasalwator.pl. This unique octagonal chapel is one of
only three wooden temples left in Kraków. Originally built as
a cemetery chapel, throughout its long history it was burned
many times (wonder how that happened?) with its present
structure having been built in 1690. In ironic, yet typical, contrast
to the pre-Slavic pagan god of the wind named ‘Poświst’
who once stood at this site, today you’ll find a statue of Pope
Kraków In Your Pocket krakow.inyourpocket.com
John Paul II erected in 2008. The baroque 17th century altar
within the charming chapel was borrowed from the Church
of the Holy Saviour just across the street (G-3). Q Closed in
winter. Open during mass only from June to October when services
are held on the first and third Sundays of those months.
Church of the Holy Saviour
(Kościół Najświętszego
Salwatora) G-3, ul. Św.
Bronisławy 9, www.parafiasalwator.pl.
One of Kraków’s oldest
and most modestly beautiful
churches, the Church of the Holy
Savior stands atop a former early
Slavic temple. In fact, archaeologists
have dated this site as far
back as the 10th century and
some have even posited that it
may be the first Catholic site in
all of Poland. First mentioned in writing back in 1148, you
might be familiar with its history since then: burned, rebuilt,
burned, rebuilt, burned, rebuilt in the 17th century as you see
it today. The age of the site can be most felt in the interior
which includes precious frescoes from the early 16th century.
Surrounding the church is a small, scenic cemetery, including
a wall-tomb for the Sisters who maintained it and an old
gravedigger’s cottage. Q Open during mass only.
Norbertine Legends
As with most ancient Cracovian landmarks, there are
a fair few legends associated with the Norbertine Monastery
(G/H-4, ul. Kościuszki 88). The first is to do with
Saint Bronisława herself, who after being visited by the
Holy Spirit and warned of an impending Tartar attack
(which back in those days was a bit like having the Lord
tell you that the sun was going to come up tomorrow),
managed to rally the Sisters to safety in the adjacent
hills which now bear her name. The monastery was of
course destroyed and Saint Bronisława spent the rest
of her days mending the spirits of those sceptical of a
God that would send Tartars to burn their homes every
damn weekend. She died in 1259.
Another legend regards the Norbertine Cathedral bell
and its mournful, murky tone. Story goes that between
attacks by the Tartar hordes, a punishing storm struck
the area destroying a nearby ferry crossing. As the
Good Sisters lay dreaming of the swift new boat they
would soon put in the water, they were awoken by the
Tartar alarm (something like a cat being strangled) to
witness all the merchants of Zwierzyniec hastening to
the ferry crossing to escape the mounted brutes hot on
their heels. Finding no such ferry all the merchants were
skewered or drowned in the Wisła River, except for one
who could swim apparently. To honour his extinct people,
the lonely merchant commissioned a bell for the tower
of the Sisters’ ravaged monastery. After several failed
attempts to cast the bell, the bell-maker took his own life
ashamed of the crack that kept appearing on its surface.
Sans bell-maker, the Sisters accepted the flawed bell
interpreting it as a symbol of the fractured lives of those
it was meant to remember. Once erected atop the chapel
tower, the Tartars swiftly arrived to toss the bell into the
river (those jerks!). Legend claims that each year on St.
John’s Night (June 23rd) the sunken, beleaguered bell can
be heard tolling its Tartar-cursing chime until midnight
when the clock on the Market Square sounds.
krakow.inyourpocket.com
Salwator Cemetery (Cmentarz Salwatorski) G-3,
Al. Waszyngtona 1. This intimate, hill-side graveyard was
ordained in 1865 and offers fantastic views of the Wisła.
Perhaps the sanctuary’s most famous daisy-pusher is one
of its most recent tenants - popular sci-fi author Stanisław
Lem, put to earth here in 2006. Q Open 08:00 - 18:00.
Komitet Kopca
Kościuszki
Kościuszko Mound (Kopiec
Kościuszki) F-3, Al. Waszyngtona
1, tel. (+48) 12 425 11 09, www.
kopieckosciuszki.pl. History produces
few men like Tadeusz Kościuszko
(1746-1817). Having fought with distinction
in the American War of Independence
before inspiring a valiant
Insurrection against foreign rule in
Poland, this relentless freedom-fighter
was described by Thomas Jefferson as
‘the pure a son of liberty that I have
ever known.’ Upon his passing Polish
authorities demanded his body be sent
from Switzerland to be interred in the Wawel Royal Crypts. Such
was the country’s love of Kościuszko that the people proposed
to honour him with a monument in the tradition of the prehistoric
mounds of King Krak and Wanda - and to make it the grandest in
Kraków. With the approval of the Norbertine Sisters who granted
the land, city authorities began developing an artificial burial
mound to be constructed atop Bronisława Hill in Zwierzyniec.
When construction began there was no lack of pomp and ceremony.
First mass was held, followed by speeches; documents,
heirlooms and artefacts from Kościuszko’s illustrious life were
placed - as well as soil from his many battlefields, including those
in America - before friends, statesmen and foreign dignitaries
dumped the first wheelbarrows of dirt. For the next three years
people of all ages from all over Poland brought soil from their
homes and villages to add to the mound. Though a committee
was formed for its oversight, the work was all done voluntarily.
Officially completed in November 1823, Kościuszko Mound
stands 34 metres high, 326 metres above sea level. A boulder
from the Tatra Mountains, which on a clear day can be seen on
the horizon from the top of the mound, was placed at the top
with the inscription, ‘Kościuszce’ (‘To Kościuszko’).
In the 1850s the occupying Austrian military authorities took
over the territory of Zwierzyniec and went to building a brick
fortress encircling the Mound with intent to use the location
as a strategic lookout point. Demolishing a chapel of St.
Bronisława at the site, the Austrians, in their gentility, built a
new chapel, incorporating it into the stronghold. Quite contrarily,
the Germans later threatened to demolish the Mound
and surrounding fortifications during their WWII occupation
as they set about destroying all Polish monuments and
national symbols (along with 3 million Polish Jews). Though
parts of the fortress were destroyed, the Mound survived the
war better than the country’s population, 16% of which were
casualties of Nazi and Soviet bloodshed. Today the fortress
has been rebuilt and significant engineering improvements
have been made to the Mound to ensure its longevity, including
a vital drainage system.
Climbing to the peak is exhausting work, but the panoramic
views of Kraków are a worthwhile reward. The neo-Gothic
Chapel of St. Bronisława, which contains a medley of
objects connected to Kościuszko’s life, can also be visited
and the surrounding fortifications also house two cafes, a
radio station, restaurant, wax museum and five additional
historical exhibitions. Admission is included with the mound
to all exhibits and the hours are also the same, except for
two exhibits: ‘Cracovian Mounds,’ and ‘Kościuszko - The First
Chapter’ (Open 09:30-16:00. From March open 09:30-17:00)
Q Mound open daily from 09:00 till dusk. Last entrance 30
minutes before closing. Admission 11/9zł.
February - March 2013
103

104 NOWA HUTA
NOWA OLD TOWN HUTA
The bastard child of a devastated post WWII Poland, the huge
Socialist Realist suburb of Nowa Huta is the direct antithesis
of everything cuddly Kraków is. Gargoyles and tourists? Not
here. The Orwellian settlement of Nowa Huta is one of only two
entirely pre-planned socialist realist cities ever built (the other
being Magnitogorsk in Russia’s Ural Mountains), and one of the
finest examples of deliberate social engineering in the world.
Funded by the Soviet Union, Nowa Huta swallowed up a huge
swathe of ideal agricultural land, and the ancient village of
Kościelniki (as well as parts of Mogiła and Krzesławice) in an
attempt to create an in-your-face proletarian opponent to intellectual,
artsy-fartsy, fairytale Kraków. The decision to build NH
was rubber stamped on May 17, 1947 and over the next few
years construction of a model city for 100,000 people sprung up
at breakneck speed. Built to impress, Nowa Huta featured wide,
tree-lined avenues, parks, lakes and the officially sanctioned
architectural style of the time - Socialist Realism. Nowa Huta’s
architects strove to construct the ideal city, with ironic inspiration
coming from the neighbourhood blocks built in 1920s New
York (that despicable western metropolis). Careful planning was
key, and the suburb was designed with ‘efficient mutual control’
in mind: wide streets would prevent the spread of fire and the
profusion of trees would easily soak up a nuclear blast, while
the layout was such that the city could easily be turned into a
fortress if it came under attack.
Somewhat sadly perhaps, the Utopian dream that was
Nowa Huta was never fully realized. A fearsome town hall
in the style of the renaissance halls found across Poland
was never built, nor was the theatre building across from
it and the ornamental architectural details planned for the
monumental buildings of Plac Centralny were never added.
However what was completed is very much worth the trip
for intrepid tourists willing to teleport themselves into a
completely different reality far from the cobbled kitsch of
Kraków; it’s as easy as a tramride.
Getting There
Roses Avenue (Aleja Róż)
Getting to NH is a cinch thanks to a well-designed tram
network. Tram 4 from Dwórzec Główny (the train station
stop), or tram 22 from Starowiślna both go straight to
Plac Centralny in about 20mins.
What To See
Should you take that step, do so onto the platform of Plac
Centralny and find yourself in the central nervous system
of Nowa Huta. Dating from 1949, the Central Square is a
masterpiece of Soviet social planning, and the brainchild of
architect Tadeusz Ptaszycki. In another twist of irony, this
Soviet landmark which once bore Stalin’s name was officially
redesignated ‘Ronald Reagan Square’ in 2004, though speak
to any local and you’ll still find it referred to as Pl. Centralny.
While this ‘square’ serves as the focal point for visitors, it’s
the Steelworks that Nowa Huta is known for, not to mention
named after. Poland was in the process of rebuilding itself
from near complete destruction after WWII, and steel was
of vital importance. Work began in April 1950, and by 1954
the first blast furnace was in operation. Employing some
40,000 people in its heyday the Steelworks - named for a
time after Lenin - were capable of producing seven million
tonnes of steel annually, and at one time boasted the largest
blast furnace in Europe. Such was its reputation that Fidel
Castro chose to visit the Steelworks rather than Kraków’s
Rynek on one state visit to Poland. Found on the end of al.
Solidarności the entrance to what is known as the Sendzimir
Steelworks has been given the full socialist makeover, with
two concrete monstrosities built to echo the fine old buildings
of Poland. You’ll hear the natives referring to this architectural
masterstroke as ‘the Vatican,’ poking fun at the grandeur it
was meant to emmulate.
Nowa Huta may have been designed to be a socialist
showcase city, but the reality was far different. It became
a hotbed of anticommunist activity, with early displays of
dissent traced back to the struggle for permission to build
the city’s first church, and though it took 28 years, The
Lord’s Ark (Kościół Arka Pana) was finally consecrated
in 1977. Not surprisingly many of Nowa Huta’s political
protestors could be found during the day on the factory
floor, and the Steelworks were to play a huge part in the
Solidarity strikes of the early 1980s. Identified as an antiestablishment
stronghold, the Steelworks were placed
under military control during the period of martial law, and
today a remembrance room inside the factory honours
those workers who put their lives on the line.
However, while Nowa Huta is the product of the last half
century, a true tour of the area reveals a number of treasures
of much older historical value. The most epitomising
example of a pre-steel age in the area has to be Wanda’s
Mound a mysterious prehistoric earthwork that proves the
area’s settlement predates that of Kraków’s Old Town. The
quiet communities of Krzesławice and Mogiła each hide
pristine examples of ancient Polish sacral architecture in
the wooden churches of St. John the Baptist and St.
Bartholomew. Artist Jan Matejko enjoyed Krzesławice so
Kraków In Your Pocket krakow.inyourpocket.com
much he used it as an artist retreat as his preserved period
manor house evidences. Mogiła meanwhile harbours one
of the most cherished religious sites in Małopolska in the
Cistercian Monastery and its morbidly miraculous cross.
If you’ve more time to explore, a walking or cycling tour of
Mogiła’s small backroads is akin to an open-air ethnographic
museum, just watch out for the german shepherds behind
every garden fence.
Churches
Church of St. Bartholomew R-5, ul. Klasztorna 11,
www.mogila.cystersi.pl. Founded by Kraków bishop Iwo
Odrowąż who brought the Cistercians to Mogiła from Silesia
in 1222, the present structure of this outstanding wooden
church dates from 1466. As the Church of St. Wenceslas
across the street was part of a monastic complex, St.
Batholomew’s was erected to accommodate the Catholic
layman, one of whom - master carpenter Maciej Mączka - put
his name and completion date on the door after building this
enduring wooden treasure. Exceptional for its three aisles
- a rarity in wooden church architecture - the 18th century
belfry and beautiful domed entrance gate have also been
preserved. Unfortunately, however, in winter the interior
is only open on Sundays between services (vaguely
10:00-12:30), but it’s still worth taking a look at the exterior
architecture. Mogiła is easily accessed from Plac Centralny
via trams 10 and 16; get off at the Klasztorna stop and it’s
a short walk south.
Church of St. John the
Baptist S-2, ul. Wańkowicza,
tel. (+48) 12 681 03 53. Next
door to Matejko’s manor house,
this is one of two wooden churches
in the area. Built between
1633 and 1648 in the village
of Jaworniki in the mountains
on Poland’s eastern border with
Ukraine, when the church was
threatened by demolition in the
1980s local authorities surprisingly
approved its transfer to
Krzesławice as part of a planned
open-air folk architecture museum which never came to be.
A tower was added and the historic monument took on new
life as a place of worship, which continues today with regular
services held in the small, single-aisle interior. Q Open only
during mass and by prior arrangement.
The Cistercian Monastery R-5, ul. Klasztorna 11,
www.mogila.cystersi.pl. Located in what remains of the
sleepy village of Mogiła that Nowa Huta was plunked down
upon, the ancient Cistercian Monastery, with its two adjoining
churches, was the closest place of worship to Plac Centralny
until Arka Pana Church (N-1) was finally consecrated in 1977.
The vast and splendid Holy Cross Basilica and the adjoining
Cistercian cloister, which date way, way back to 1266, are
recognised as among the most important religious buildings
in Małopolska. During the Renaissance the monastery was
well known for its master painters and the huge interior of
Holy Cross Basilica as well as the monastery library feature
many fine works from the period. Most importantly, Holy Cross
Basilica also stores the famous Cross of Mogiła - the source
of many miraculous legends. Said to have been discovered
when a blacksmith’s son jumped into the Wisła River to save
what he thought to be a drowning man floating downstream,
the cross was brought to the monastery and quickly began
building a reputation for miracles before cementing them when
it was the only part of the church’s furnishings not destroyed
krakow.inyourpocket.com
by the fire of 1447, despite being made of wood. Christ’s
hair and loincloth were burned however, and ever since that
time he has donned a wrap of true fabric and a wig of real
human hair. Weird. The monastery is easily accessed from
Plac Centralny via trams 10 and 16; get off at the Klasztorna
stop and it’s a short walk south. Q Holy Cross Basilica open
09:15 - 17:00, Fri 09:15 - 14:30 between services only. On
Sundays (when services are most frequent) the best time to
visit is from 15:00 - 16:00. The gardens are closed in winter.
The Lord’s Ark (Kościół Arka Pana) N-1, ul. Obrońców
Krzyża 1, www.arkapana.pl. Built between 1967 and 1977,
Nowa Huta’s first house of worship was designed by Wojciech
Pietrzyk and was pieced together brick by brick by volunteer
workers with no assistance from the communist authorities.
The complete opposite of what Nowa Huta was meant to stand
for, The Lord’s Ark is a remarkable building, and a true symbol
of the Polish belief in Catholicism. With no outside help it was
down to the locals to mix cement with spades, and find the two
million stones needed for the church’s facade. The first corner
stone was laid in 1969 by Cardinal Karol Wojtyła, who would
later assume fame as Pope John Paul II, but the discovery of a
WWII ammunition dump delayed work, as some 5,000 mines
and shells had to be carefully removed. Finally, on May 15th
1977, the church was consecrated. Built to resemble Noah’s
Ark, with a 70 metre mast-shaped crucifix rising from the middle,
the church houses an array of curious treasures, including a
stone from the tomb of St. Peter in the Vatican, a tabernacle
containing a fragment of rutile brought back from the moon by
the crew of Apollo 11, and a controversial statue of Christ that
shows him not on a cross, but about to fly to the heavens. If you
think that’s odd, check out the statue dedicated to Our Lady the
Armoured - a half metre sculpture made from ten kilograms of
shrapnel removed from Polish soldiers wounded at the Battle
of Monte Cassino. In the early 1980s, the church became a
focal point during anti-communist protests, not least for the
shelter it afforded the locals from the militia. Protesting during
the period of Martial Law was dangerous business, as proven
by the monument dedicated to Bogdan Włosik opposite the
church. Włosik was shot in the chest by security services, and
later died of his injuries. His death outraged the people, and
his funeral was attended by 20,000 mourners. The monument
commemorating the site of his death was erected in 1992 and
is a tribute to all those who died during this period. As recently
as September 2012, Kraków City Council awarded Arka Pana
the ‘Cracoviae Merenti’ silver medallion for its significance to
the city’s history. Q Open 06:00 - 19:00. No visiting during
mass please.
Museums
Jan Matejko Manor House (Dworek Jana Matejki)
S-1, ul. Wańkowicza 25, tel. (+48) 12 644 56 74.
Located in Krzesławice - a charming village hidden just one
street behind Nowa Huta’s artificial lake, here you’ll find the
small manor house with a wood shingle roof once used as
a workshop by Poland’s greatest 19th century painter, Jan
Matejko. Though seemingly ironic today, this is where the
artist went to escape the crude haste of life in Kraków.
First inhabited by Hugo Kołłątaj - an eminent Enlightenment
political activist who co-penned Poland’s constitution (the
first in Europe), Matejko purchased the manor in 1876 adding
on the porch and the extension which would house his
workshop. Inside guests will see Matejko’s famous ‘Gallery
of Polish Kings’ as well as many illustrations, everyday items
and period furniture. Next door is the wooden Church of St.
John the Baptist - also worth seeing. Q Opening hours are
limited to Fridays 10:00-14:00 only. Visits for groups of
over 10 available by prior arrangement. Call (+48) 12
656 50 51. Admission 7/4zł.
February - March 2013
105

NOWA HUTA
NOWA HUTA
106 107
The Nowa Huta Cross
Zygmunt Put,
pl.wikipedia.org
The Nowa Huta
Cross & Riots O-2,
ul. Ludżmierska 2. Conceived
as an ideal socialist
city, Nowa Huta was to
be atheist by definition
and as such its design
didn’t designate any urban
plots for troublesome
churchs. As one can imagine,
the policy didn’t go
over well with the locals
who, backed by Bishop
Karol Wojtyla - the future
Pope JP2, began fighting
for a permit to erect a
Catholic place of worship
right from the get-go. Progress finally came with the
political thaw of October 1956: the proper papers and
permissions were granted, a site was chosen and soon
a large wooden cross was erected and consecrated in
the Theatre district. In June 1958, ground was broken
for the foundations, but work was promptly halted as
the leniency of the communist authorities had apparently
expired, and the site was designated for a school.
With the intent of removing the consecration cross, the
authorities aptly anticipated a conflict after numerous
protests and special armed forces were rolled in from all
across southern PL. Nowa Huta was officially ‘closed’ and
a dense column of military trucks, armoured cars, cannons
and machine guns sealed it off from Kraków, with
the only line of communication between the two cities
being the taxi drivers who announced that the “revolution
in Nowa Huta” had begun. Tensions broke into an all-out
street war between police and some 4000 ‘defenders of
the cross’ on April 27, 1960 and lasted for several days
with water cannons, tear gas and dogs unleashed on
the civilian protestors. The number of injured or killed in
the conflict is unknown, but officially distributed reports
(dubious by nature) listed military casualties at 200 and
eyewitnesses suggest the civilian number would have
been three or four times as much. Officially 493 people
were arrested and 87 sentenced to prison stints from 6
months to 5 years in length.
And the cross? It stood, though the planned school was
nonetheless built on the original church site beside it as
armed officers guarded the cross day and night. By the
1970s the Nowa Huta Cross was in sorry shape, and
looking ready to keel over from rot and decay - an idea
which greatly pleased the authorities who assumed
that when it did their troubles would be over. Not so.
A massive new oak cross was secretly prepared and
when the opportunity to install it arose in the late 70s
as the officers were away from their posts for May 1st
celebrations (Communist Labour Day), it was erected
on the site of the original. It would later be replaced by
a metal cross and in 2007 by the bronze cross which
stands today bearing the inscription, “To John Paul II,
the Defender of the Cross - the grateful people of Nowa
Huta.” The city, meanwhile, would remain without a
church until 1966 when Arka Pana (N-1) was built a half
kilometre away (though it would be prevented from being
officially consecrated until 1977). In 2002, the small
Church of the Sacred Heart was consecrated beside the
Nowa Huta Cross and adjacent school.
Nowa Huta Museum (Dzieje Nowej Huty) O-2,
os. Słoneczne 16 (Nowa Huta), tel. (+48) 12 425
97 75, www.mhk.pl. This small museum features
a series of changing exhibitions relating to the life
and culture of the district. Q Open Tue, Thu, Fri, Sat
09:00 - 16:00; Wed 10:00 - 17:00; closed Mon, Sun
(except for the second Sunday of the month). Admission
5/4zł. Wed free.
Places of Interest
The Central Square & Roses Avenue (Plac
Centralny i Aleja Róż) O-4. The centre of Nowa
Huta’s architectural layout, Plac Centralny is the district’s
primary landmark and one of social realism’s highest
architectural achievements in PL, despite never being
completed. The two main structures of the square were
to be the towering Town Hall (resembling a mini PKiN)
at the northern end and a colonnaded theatre at the
southern end, with an obelisk in between; though the
designs were in place, none saw development. Similarly,
the grand promenade linking them - Roses Avenue (Aleja
Róż, O-3) - was never fully realised, and terminates after a
mere four blocks, making it a fine example of your typical
Stalinist ‘road to nowhere.’
While tooling around the six-story arcaded buildings lining
the way, you’ll find several curiosities worth peeping
into. Perhaps the most timeless shop in Nowa Huta is
Cepelix (os. Centrum B bl.1, O-3; open 10:00-18:00,
Sat 10:00-13:00. Closed Sun). Specialising in Polish
folk art and design, this amazing gift shop is like none
other thanks to the original 50s interior of stylised
furnishings, metal chandeliers and a coffer ceiling with
colourful hand-painted ceramic plates. The character
of this place hasn’t changed a bit and as such it’s a
great place to buy sheepskins, lacework or famous
Bolesławiec pottery at basement prices. Crossing the
street to os. Centrum C, original interiors have also
been preserved in the corner Skarbnica bookshop,
but for a true taste of the district visit the incredible
milk bar next door to it. Nowa Huta is literally chocka-block
with milk bars, but we’ve never seen anything
as glorious as the midnight blue with a rainbow motif
interior of this bar mleczny. Topping that, take a trip
to the other end of the block to the legendary Stylowa
Restaurant - one of the only places to eat in NH that
isn’t a milk bar. Once one of the most exclusive restaurants
in town, this place carries on in the same spirit
as the day it opened with an interior that hasn’t been
updated in well over 30 years. Stop in Fri-Sun evening
to witness pensioned locals strutting their stuff on
the dancefloor to live disco polo sets by a crooning
husband and wife team, and we guarantee you won’t be
able to leave before dancing with at least two babcias
and having at least three unwanted conversations. A
rare cultural experience, few places like Stylowa still
exist anywhere.
The Sendzimir Steelworks (Huta im. Tadeusza
Sendzimira) T-2, ul. Ujastek 1. While the
monumental Plac Centralny is the face Nowa Huta turns
to the public, its true social realist glory piece is the
Administrative Centre of the Steelworks - the palatial
monstrosities flanking the gate to the complex. Built
between 1952 and ‘55 to the design of the two Janusz’s
- Ballenstadt and Ingarten - these twin architectural
monuments crowned with a Renaissance comb attic
represent the most exquisite example of the social
realism in Poland. If you could get yourself inside them
you’d see incredibly well-preserved examples of 50s
decor including black marble staircases, magnificent
candelabras and decorative radiator shields. Getting
inside the Steelworks is indeed a problem. Despite
plenty of interest, the Steelworks are no longer open
to tourists (except during occasional concerts held
in the former tinning mill). Even when it was possible
to arrange a tour it required hiring an automobile to
explore the immense complex which covers over 1000
hectares with an internal road and rail network dozens
of kilometres long. Some of the Steelworks’ larger halls
could fit Kraków’s main market square (the largest in
Europe, mind you) several times over, and the lavabrimming
melting ladles are several storeys tall. After
communism fell, the patron saint of the Steelworks was
revised from Vladimir Lenin to Polish-American inventor
Tadeusz Sendzimir. In 2005 the complex was bought by
the Indian tycoon Lakshmi Mithal and is now officially
called ‘ArcelorMittal Poland,’ but you can call it ‘Susan’
if you like, you ain’t getting in.
Wanda’s Mound (Kopiec
Wandy) T-4, Near
intersection of ul. Ujastek
Mogilski and ul. Bardosa.
Though construction of Nowa
Huta began in 1949, Kopiec
Wandy is indisputable
evidence that the history of
the area goes back much
further. In fact, the village of
Mogiła, which Kopiec Wandy
is near the historical centre
of, has been inhabited since
5000 BC without interruption,
while archaeologists date the settlement of Kraków’s Old
Town much later in the 8th century. Together with Kopiec
Krakusa in Podgórze (K-5) - Kraków’s other prehistoric
earthwork - Kopiec Wandy plays a role in one of Poland’s
greatest archeaological mysteries as the mound’s date
of construction, builders and function all remain a subject
of great speculation. Leading theories suggest that both
mounds were erected sometime between the 6th and 10th
centuries, by either the Slavs or the Celts, as burial mounds
or pagan cult sites; perhaps most likely is that they were
created as burial mounds which later became cult sites.
Though seemingly random within the layout of modern
Kraków, the location of the two mounds can hardly be seen
as an accident; when standing atop Kopiec Wandy on the
evening of the summer solstice, the sun can be seen setting
in a direct line behind Kopiec Krakusa.
Off a major road behind a handy tramstop (station ‘Kopiec
Wandy’), Wanda’s Mound is a conical earthwork rising 14m
with a winding path to the top, adorned by a small monument
from the 19th century by Jan Matejko who lived in the
Krzesławice Manor nearby. The victim of general neglect
and geographical trespasses, Wanda’s Mound today lies
just beyond the fence of the fearsomely enormous Sendzimir
steel plant, of which glimpses of a large junkyard can be seen
through the trees. The view to the southwest is an improvement,
where Kopiec Krakusa and Podgórze can be seen in
the distance, though Wanda’s Mound unfortunately doesn’t
offer sweeping views of the same caliber as Kraków’s other
mounds. The parkland surrounding the mound is in need of
the development which is apparently planned, not to mention
some proper modern archaeological studies; behind
the mound is a footpath leading to the right towards one
of Kraków’s hidden 19th century Austrian fortresses, but,
honestly, it just gives us the creeps.
The Legend of Wanda
The only daughter of Krakus, Kraków’s mythical founder,
there are many tales chronicling the life of Wanda which have
been the source of numerous literary works and taken their
place in the Polish national consciousness. First mentioned
by a historian of the early 13th century, Queen Wanda (like all
Polish women, mind you) was apparently quite an exceptional
lady. Possessed of great beauty (obviously), grace, wisdom
and charm, even the most ruthless enemies were said to
willow at the sight of her, including a Leman tyrant who - in
attempting to seize a throne he perceived as ‘vacant’ - laid
down his arms at the sight of her indisputable charms. Not
just a pretty face, Wanda is also credited with military talent,
defeating the Germans in a battle at Skotnickie Lake. As you
can imagine, a lady of such high nobility, endowment and
appeal had her fair share of suitors and apparently the list
of humiliated hopefuls throwing themselves on their swords
was a long one. Valuing virginity as the highest moral station,
Wanda refused all those who asked for her hand, including
a German prince who threatened to take her and her kingdom
by force if she would not submit. In a revered example
of self-sacrifice to her people, rather than willfully give her
kingdom over to a foreigner, Wanda threw herself into the
Wisła River - an act which later, during the highly-patriotic
periods of Polish annexation and occupation, earned her the
snarky nickname ‘Wanda who didn’t want a German.’ In order
to honour and remember their great Queen, the nation built
her an earthwork tomb as impressive as her father’s near
Mogiła, the place of her birth. Though she died a virgin, those
brave enough to visit Nowa Huta today can easily conquer
Wanda’s mound.
Memories of Lenin
As an avid cyclist it is distinctly possible Lenin visited what
is now Nowa Huta during his two year sojourn in Kraków. He
made a high-profile comeback in 1954 when the Steelworks
were named after him, and a year later a statue of him was
unveiled in Strzelecki Park. The figure was moved to the Lenin
Museum soon after, and thereafter mysteriously disappeared.
In 1970 the decision was taken to construct a new one on Al.
Róż, with Marian Konieczny winning the commission.
Strangely, the artist was at that time living in Lenin’s
former flat. Perhaps inspired by this freaky turn of fate
Konieczny took three years to create a cracker of a statue,
with the seven tonne Lenin seen striding purposefully
foreward down the centre of town with raincoat open and
furrowed brow. The people of Nowa Huta however were
left unimpressed, and the statue soon became the focus
of creative vandals. In one such case a rusty old bicycle,
battered pair of boots and a handwritten note were left
below the statue which read, “Take these old boots, get
on the bike and get the heel out of Nowa Huta.” In 1979
a bomb was planted at his feet, though the only casualty
proved to be a local man who died of shock after being
awoken by the blast. During the Martial Law era more
attempts to destroy him were thwarted, and he doggedly
survived an effort to pull him down, as well as an arson
attack. Finally, on December 10, 1989, Lenin was picked
up by a giant crane, boxed up and left to rot in a disused
fort. But his story doesn’t end there. Years later a Swedish
philanthropist bought him for 100,000 Swedish crowns,
and had him shipped to a museum outside of Stockholm.
Today Nowa Huta’s former pet Lenin has been given a
more youthful look by Swedish artists, and is now seen
touting a pierced ear and a handrolled ciggie. But we kid.
Kraków In Your Pocket krakow.inyourpocket.com
krakow.inyourpocket.com
February - March 2013

108
WIELICZKA
Archiwum Kopalnia Wieliczka
Kraków is without a doubt one of the most popular tourist
cities in Eastern Europe, and as you’ve likely heard, one of
its top tourist attractions is a salt mine actually located in
Wieliczka—a small town about 15km to the southeast. An
astounding 1.2 million people visit Wieliczka Salt Mine each
year (that’s one out of every seven or eight visitors to Kraków),
and it’s hardly a recent phenomenon—people have been visiting
the salt mine for centuries with notable guests including
Nicolaus Copernicus, Johann Wolfgang von Goethe, Fryderyk
Chopin, Ignacy Panderewski, Pope John Paul II and former
US president Bill Clinton. In fact, the first official tourist trail
opened underground here way back in the mid-19th century.
But it’s not only tourists who come to visit. So deep is the
love of the locals for this place that in a recent survey (see
Local Likes & Dislikes), Cracovians voted Wieliczka Salt Mine
as their number one favourite thing about Kraków; again, not
bad for an attraction in another town 15 kilometres away. Not
only is Wieliczka a World Heritage Site, but it has the distinction
of having been included (along with Kraków’s Old Town)
on UNESCO’s first-ever World Heritage List back in 1978 (you
know, back when being a World Heritage site actually meant
something). Additional accolades aside, this unique industrial
heritage site has been a popular destination for centuries and
if you’re visiting Kraków, you should also consider the short
side trip out to Wieliczka, which in addition to the famous salt
mine, also boasts a health resort, castle and museum.
History
About 20 million years ago, Kraków and the surrounding area
apparently lay at the bottom of a shallow, salty sea. Unfortunately
for those of us here today, the beaches are gone,
but left behind were some enormous salt deposits, shifted
hundreds of metres underground by tectonic movements.
Though cheap and universally accessible today, salt was
an extremely valuable commodity centuries ago due to its
Getting There
Getting to Wieliczka is a cinch with the E4 road east out
of Kraków (aptly named ul. Wieliczka within city limits)
leading straight to the Wieliczka exit in about 15 minutes.
Alternatively, frequent trains also run for about 4.70zł, or
take bus 304 from the Dworzec Główny Zachód (Galeria)
stop outside Galeria Krakowska near ul. Kurniki (D-1), or
one of the Wieliczka-bound mini-buses leaving from the
parking area near there at the corner of ul. Ogrodowa
and ul. Pawia (D-1). Cost 3.00zł, journey time 20-30mins.
ability to preserve food, especially meat. An ancient sign of
wealth, salt was used as currency before there was money;
Roman soldiers who ably performed their duties were said
to be ‘worth their salt’ and the word ‘salary’ comes from the
Latin word ‘salarium’ used to describe their wages.
Salt extraction by boiling water from briny surface pools in
the regions surrounding Kraków can be traced back to the
middle Neolithic era (3500 BC), but it was the discovery of
underground rock salt in the 13th century that led to the
rapid development of the area. Underground extraction
began in nearby Bochnia in 1252 and was established on
an industrial scale in Wieliczka by the 1280s; soon both cities
had earned municipal rights and by the end of the 13th
century the Cracow Saltworks was established to manage
both mines, with its headquarters in the Wieliczka castle
complex. One of the first companies in Europe, the Cracow
Saltworks brought vast wealth to the Polish crown for the
next 500 years until the first partition of Poland in the 18th
century. Its heyday was the 16th and 17th centuries when it
employed some 2,000 people, production exceeded 30,000
tonnes and the Saltworks accounted for one third of the
revenue of the state treasury.
Under Austrian occupation (1772-1918) production was
further increased by mechanising the mining works with
steam and later electric machinery, and the first tourist route
was opened. By the 20th century however, over-exploitation
and neglect of necessary protection works had begun to
destabilise the mine’s condition and the market value of salt
no longer made it a viable enterprise. In 1964 the extraction
of rock salt was halted in Wieliczka and in 1996 exploitation
of the salt deposit was stopped altogether. Despite the
significant hazards of the day (flooding, cave-ins, explosive
gas), over the course of seven centuries 26 access shafts
and 180 fore-shafts connecting individual levels had been
drilled in Wieliczka. 2,350 chambers had been excavated
with over 240km of tunnels reaching a maximum depth of
327m underground. Due to its unique saline microclimate and
innovative engineering, the mine has been well preserved and
is today used for historical, medicinal and tourist purposes.
Archiwum Kopalnia Wieliczka
Kraków In Your Pocket krakow.inyourpocket.com

110
WIELICZKA
What to See
Wieliczka Salt Mine ul. Daniłowicza 10, Wieliczka,
tel. (+48) 12 278 73 02, www.kopalnia.pl. A visit to the
salt mine begins at the Daniłowicza Shaft; buy your ticket
from the adjacent ticket office and check the outside display
for the time of the next guided tour in your language. Your
ticket is valid for two parts of the salt mine: the Tourist
Route, which comprises the first 2 hours, and the Underground
Museum which takes an additional hour to visit.
In between there’s an opportunity to take a break, use the
restrooms and even get something to eat (or escape if that’s
your preference). However, be aware that the tour does
not end at the restaurant as many tour guides suggest it
does to foreign groups; in fact, they are obliged to escort you
to and through the Underground Museum (which you have
already paid for) as well.
Be prepared to do a lot of walking and bear in mind that the
mine is a constant 15 degrees Centigrade. If you want to
endear the guides, memorise the wonderful words Szczęść
Boże (shtench boes-yuh); this essential, unpronounceable
bit of miner’s lingo effectively means ‘God be with you’ and
substitutes for Dzień dobry (‘hello’) when underground.
Your tour begins in earnest by descending 380 wooden
stairs (don’t worry, you won’t have to climb them) to the
first level 64m underground. Of nine levels, the tour only
takes you to the first three (a max depth of 135m), with the
3.5kms covered during the 3 hour tour (including both parts)
comprising a mere 1% of this underground realm. While
wandering the timber-re-enforced tunnels you’ll gain insight
from your guide into the history of the site, the techniques
used to extract the salt and the lives of the men who worked
there. There’s the opportunity to not only operate a medieval
winch used for moving massive blocks of salt, but also to
lick the walls (bring some tequila). The tour visits numerous
ancient chambers and chapels in which almost everything
around you is made from rock salt, including the tiled floors,
chandeliers, sculptures and stringy stalactites that hang
down. The highlight of the tour is the magnificent 22,000m³
St. Kinga’s Chapel dating from the 17th century. Known for its
amazing acoustics, the chapel features bas-relief wall carvings
from the New Testament done by miners that display
an astonishing amount of depth and realism. After passing
a lake that holds more than 300g of salt per litre, and a hall
high enough to fly a hot-air balloon in (you can take a lift to
the balcony at the top for 10zł), the first part of the tour ends
at the underground restaurant and souvenir stands, at which
point you should be instructed on your two options: how to
exit (option A) or where and when to join the second part of
the tour (option B). If this option B is unmentioned or unclear,
inform your guide that you also want to see the Underground
Museum and ask them how to do so.
At your leisure you should be able to find your way past the
restaurant and restrooms, beyond which you’ll find the queue
for the tiny, nerve-wracking, high-speed lift that shoots you
back up to the surface (option A), and separate area to the
right for those that want to continue on to the Underground
Museum (option B, which we heartily recommend). Your original
guide should admit you into the museum exhibition which
comprises an additional 16 chambers over 1.5kms packed
full of artwork, artefacts and mining equipment which your
guide will elaborate on. Perhaps the most fascinating and
informative part of the Wieliczka experience, the highlights of
these beautiful exhibits include two paintings by famous 19th
century Polish artist Jan Matejko, and an entire room full of
sparkling salt crystals. Upon completion your guide leads you
back to the ancient lift which takes you above ground back
to where you started. Q Open 08:00 - 17:00. Admission
73/58zł. Taking photos is an additional 10zł. In addition to
the popular ‘Tourist Route’ described above, several other
routes are offered including a handicap-accessible route,
a route for children, and a new interactive ‘Miner’s Route’
in which tourists leave from the Regis mine in work clothes
accompanied by an English-speaking guide, are assigned a
role by the foreman and experience the daily routines, rituals
and secrets of working underground. Miner’s Route open
10:00 - 14:30; cost 95/80zł.
The Saltworks Castle & Museum (Muzeum Żup
Krakowskich Wieliczka) ul. Zamkowa 8, Wieliczka,
tel. (+48) 12 278 58 49, www.muzeum.wieliczka.pl.
From the Daniłowicza Shaft it’s a short, rather picturesque
walk to the Saltworks Castle, which served as the administrative
seat of the Cracow Saltworks Board. Originally
built between the 13th and 16th centuries, the castle was
demolished during World War II before being beautifully
reconstructed in 1984. The castle courtyard features the
foundations of the original oval-shaped defensive walls and
a 14th century tower that once housed a prison and shooting
gallery. The main building holds a museum documenting the
history of Wieliczka and the castle itself from its early beginnings
to modern times, local archaeological findings, a model
of 19th century Wieliczka, a collection of saltcellars from all
over the world, and other temporary exhibits. With little to no
information in English, the museum is hardly required visiting
but interesting enough to warrant the negligible entry fee if
you have time. Q Open 09:00 - 16:30. Closed Mon, Sun.
Admission 4/3zł. Guided tours in English 35zł per person;
must be booked at least 7 days in advance.
Underground Health Resort (Uzdrowisko Kopalnia
Soli “Wieliczka”) Park Kingi 1, bldg. I, Wieliczka, tel.
(+48) 12 278 73 68, www.uzdrowisko.kopalnia.pl. With
the market value of table salt no longer being what it was in
medieval times, today the salt mine is most valuable for its
health benefits (and tourist dollars, of course). Given its perfect
isolation from external factors, the specific microclimate of the
subterranean saline chambers is completely bacteria- and
allergen-free and rich in healthy microelements such as sodium
chloride, magnesium and chloride. Such an environment is brilliant
for anyone suffering from asthma, bronchitis, lung inflammation,
allergies or recurrent nose, sinus or throat conditions.
As such, the salt mine also operates as a health resort offering
a variety of single and multiple day health treatments in the
Jezioro Wessel (Wessel Lake) and Stajnia Gór Wschodnich
(Stable of East Mining Hills) saline chambers located 135m
underground. Here individuals and groups can participate in a
number of organised breathing exercises and walks, as well as
music therapy (reservations required). The health resort also
offers innovative methods for the treatment of serious respiratory
ailments and a broad range of modern medical services
with professional medical staff and equipment. More info can
be found on their website. QOpen 07:00 - 19:00, Tue, Fri 07:00
- 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Prices vary by season, treatment and
length of stay. Check the website for specific quotes.
Kraków In Your Pocket krakow.inyourpocket.com
For centuries the town of Oświęcim was a quiet backwater
community, largely bypassed by world events. That changed
with WWII when Oświęcim, known as ‘Auschwitz’ under
German occupation, became the chosen site of the largest
death camp in the Third Reich. Between 1.1 million and 1.5
million people were exterminated here, etching the name of
Auschwitz forever into the history books; countless films,
documentaries, books and survivor accounts have since
burned it into the collective consciousness.
Visitors to Poland, particularly to Kraków and Katowice, are
faced with asking themselves whether or not they will make
the effort to visit Auschwitz. It is a difficult question. There
are few who would say they actually ‘want’ to visit Auschwitz,
though many are compelled to do so for their own reasons.
For those of us who don’t feel so compelled, it’s easy to
give reasons for not going: not having enough time, already
knowing as much as we need or want to know about it, not
feeling personally connected enough to the site or the history
to need to visit, or being uncomfortable about the prospect
of visiting a site of such emotional resonance at the same
time as hundreds of other tourists. Having been there, we can
tell you that all of these explanations for avoiding Auschwitz
are perfectly reasonable until you’ve actually visited the site;
you’ll be hard-pressed to find anyone who has made the trip
and recommends against going.
The Auschwitz Museum and tour present one of the most
horrific acts in human history with a level of tact, passion,
poignancy and professionalism that is so profound, it almost
makes as lasting an impression as the site itself. Without
being heavy-handed, the history of the site is presented in
all of its contexts and guests are perhaps spared from fully
surrendering to their emotions only by the sheer relentlessness
of the information. No matter how much you think you know on
the subject, the perspective gained by visiting is incomparable.
Whether or not you choose to go to Auschwitz is up to you to
decide. However it should be understood that Auschwitz is not a
site of Jewish concern, Polish concern, German concern, gypsy
concern, historical concern... It is a site of human concern. As
such, everyone should visit.
Meeting Centre
International Youth Meeting Centre
(Międzynarodowy Dom Spotkań Młodzieży) ul.
Legionów 11, Oświęcim, tel. (+48) 33 843 21 07,
www.mdsm.pl. Education centre planning international
seminars on anti-Semitism, racism, nationalism, international
relationships, processes of democratisation and contemporary
Poland. International youth exchange programmes,
conferences and lectures are also available. Additionally, they
offer 100 beds, camping ground, seminar rooms and library.
krakow.inyourpocket.com
Getting There
AUSCHWITZ
Lying 75km west of Kraków, there are several ways to
get to Oświęcim. The easiest may be signing on for a tour
organised by a multitude of Kraków-based tour companies
(like Cracow City Tours or Cracow Tours) to ensure everything
goes smoothly; providing transportation, tickets and
general guidance, the organisational help of these outfits
can eliminate significant confusion upon arrival.
For those going the DIY route, frequent buses depart for
Oświęcim from the main bus station (E-1, ul. Bosacka
18). The journey takes 1hr 40mins, costs 14zł, and
conveniently drops you off at the Auschwitz Museum
entrance. Frequent, almost hourly trains run between
Kraków and Oświęcim, with a journey time of 1hr 40mins
- 2hrs 20mins and a cost of about 16zł; note, however,
that early trains to Oświęcim can be eerily crowded,
particularly on weekends.
The Oświęcim train station (ul. Powstańców Śląskich
22) lies strategically between Auschwitz I and Auschwitz
II-Birkenau, which are 3km apart. Local bus numbers 1
and 24-29 stop at Auschwitz I; buy a 2.60zł fare from the
nearest kiosk. Museum buses shuttle visitors between
the two camps every hour, leaving from Auschwitz I at :30
past the hour (beginning at 11:30), and from Auschwitz
II-Birkenau on the hour (last bus at 16:00), or catch a cab
for 15zł. Waiting minibus taxis run by Malarek Tour can
take you back to Kraków from either camp - a group of
eight would pay 25-35zł/person.
Visiting the Auschwitz Museum
Arriving at the Auschwitz Museum can be chaotic and
confusing thanks to large crowds, numerous ticket windows
with different designations, and excessive signage
that contradicts itself. This can be avoided by going as
part of an organised group tour, organised by a local tour
company. If you are visiting independently however, or in a
small group, find the queue for the desk marked ‘Individual
Guests’. During peak tourist season the museum makes
it obligatory to buy a ticket and become part of a guided
tour, however in the off season it is possible to explore
the museum for free without a guide. Be that as it may, we
strongly recommend the guided tour, which is excellent,
profound and professional; afterwards you’ll find it hard to
imagine getting as much out of your visit had you explored
the grounds on your own. Tours in English depart most
frequently, and there are also regularly scheduled tours
in German, French, Italian, Polish and Spanish. Tour departure
times change frequently; exact times can be seen
online at auschwitz.org.pl and it would be wise to look
them up before visiting. The museum makes a big effort
to provide the tour in the native language of each guest,
and tours in languages other than those just mentioned
can be easily arranged if done in advance.
After purchasing your ticket and headphones, if there
are seats available your experience will begin with a harrowing
20 minute film (seeing the film is not guaranteed
during peak times) of narrated footage captured by the
Soviet Army when they arrived to liberate the camp in
January 1945. The film is not recommended for children
under 14 (nor is the entire museum for that matter). After
the film, your tour of the camp begins with a live guide
speaking into a microphone which you hear through your
headphones.
February - March 2013
111

112 AUSCHWITZ AUSCHWITZ 113
Visiting Auschwitz is a full day’s excursion so prepare accordingly
(comfortable shoes). The guided tour of Auschwitz I
takes around 2 hours, so make sure you’ve eaten breakfast.
After completing the tour of the first camp, there is only a
short break before the bus leaves for Auschwitz-Birkenau II;
in order to stay with the same tour guide, you need to catch
that bus, so it would be wise to pack some food for the day
(though there is some limited food available at the museum).
The tour of the second camp is shorter, lasting 1-1.5 hours,
after which you are free to explore on your own and take
some much needed time for reflection. Buses depart back
to Auschwitz I every 30 minutes, or you can walk or catch
a cab to the train station 1.5km away. At Auschwitz I there
are restrooms (have change available), a fast food bar and
restaurant; there are also restroom facilities at Auschwitz
II-Birkenau. If exploring Auschwitz without a guide, it is highly
recommended that you pick up the official guidebook (5zł),
whose map of the camp is crucial to avoid missing any of
the key sites; these can be picked up at any of the numerous
bookshops at both sites. Q Both camps are open 08:00
- 15:00. From March 1st 08:00 - 16:00.
An individual ticket for a foreign language guided tour
of both camps costs 40/30zł. Tours for groups up to
10 people, 250zł. For larger groups 300zł. Individual
visitors can tour both camps on their own at no charge.
The film costs 3.50/2.50zł (included in the price of a
group tour). Headphones cost 5zł per person (included
in the price of a group tour). Official guidebook 5zł..
Auschwitz I (Państwowe Muzeum Auschwitz -
Birkenau) ul. Więźniów Oświęcimia 20, Oświęcim, tel.
(+48) 33 844 81 00, www.auschwitz.org. Your tour of
Auschwitz I begins by passing beneath a replica of the infamous
‘Arbeit Macht Frei’ (‘Work Makes You Free’) entrance
gate. [The original sign was actually made by inmates of the
camp on Nazi orders and is no longer on display after it was
stolen in December 2009 and found in pieces in northern
Poland a few days after the theft.] From the entrance gate,
the prescribed tour route leads past the kitchens, where the
camp orchestra once played as prisoners marched to work,
before starting in earnest inside Block 4. Here an overview
of the creation and reality behind the world’s most notorious
concentration camp is given, with exhibits including original
architectural sketches for gas chambers, tins of Zyklon B
used for extermination and mugshots of inmates. Most
disturbing is over seven tonnes of human hair once destined
for German factories, which does much to demonstrate the
scale and depravity of the Nazi death machine.
Transported to Auschwitz in cattle trucks, newly arrived
prisoners were stripped of their personal property, some of
which is displayed in Block 5 including mountains of artificial
limbs, glasses, labelled suitcases, shaving kits and, most af-
A Brief History
1940: In April a Nazi commission decides to open a
concentration camp in Oświęcim, primarily because of
the excellent transport links it enjoys. Using existing
Polish army barracks as a foundation the construction
of Auschwitz I is completed on May 20th. On June 14th,
728 Polish political prisoners from Tarnów become the
first inmates of Auschwitz I, soon followed by 12,000
Soviet POWs.
1941: The first experiments with Zyklon B gas are conducted
on 600 Soviet POWs on September 3rd.
1942: Auschwitz II-Birkenau and Auschwitz III-Monowitz
are established.
1944: Jewish crematoria workers in Birkenau stage an
armed uprising on October 7, blowing up Crematorium
IV. Hundreds escape but are soon captured and put
to death.
1945: Liquidation of Birkenau begins in January with the
burning of documents and destruction of gas chambers,
crematoria and barracks. All prisoners who can walk,
approximately 58,000, are sent on arduous ‘death
marches’. About 15,000 die during this ‘evacuation’.
On January 27 the Red Army liberates Oświęcim, where
roughly 7,000 prisoners too weak to move have been
abandoned to their fate. In the months after the war
the Auschwitz barracks are used as an NKVD prison.
Post-war: The Auschwitz-Birkenau State Museum is
established. In 1979 UNESCO includes Auschwitz I and
II on its list of World Heritage sites. In the same year it is
visited by Pope John Paul II. His successor, German Pope
Benedict XVI visits in 2006. On December 18th, 2009
thieves steal the infamous ‘Arbeit Macht Frei’ sign from
above the main entrance gate, cutting it into pieces and
abandoning it in the woods in northern PL; the sign has
been replaced by a replica.
fectingly, children’s shoes. Block 6 examines the daily life of
prisoners with collections of photographs, artists’ drawings
and tools used for hard labour while the next set of barracks
recreates the living conditions endured by prisoners: bare
rooms with sackcloth spread out on the floor, and rows of
communal latrines, one decorated with a poignant mural
depicting two playful kittens.
Block 11, otherwise known as ‘The Death Block’, is arguably
the most difficult part of the tour. Outside, the ‘Wall of Death’
- against which thousands of prisoners were shot by the SS
- has been turned into a memorial festooned with flowers; it
was here that Pope Benedict XVI prayed during his groundbreaking
visit in 2006. Within the terrifying, claustrophobic
cellars of Block 11 the Nazi’s conducted their first experiments
with poison gas in 1941 on Soviet prisoners. Here the
cell of Father Maximilian Kolbe, the Polish priest starved to
death after offering his life to save another inmate, is marked
with a small memorial, and tiny ‘standing cells’ measuring 90
x 90 cm - where up to four prisoners were held for indefinite
amounts of time - remain intact.
The remaining blocks are dedicated to the specific suffering of
individual nations, including a block dedicated in memory of the
Roma people who perished. The tour concludes with the gruesome
gas chamber and crematoria, whose two furnaces were
capable of burning 350 corpses daily. The gallows used to
hang camp commandant Rudolf Hoss in 1947 stands outside.
Auschwitz II - Birkenau (Państwowe Muzeum
Auschwitz - Birkenau) Oświęcim, tel. (+48) 33 844
81 00, www.auschwitz.org.pl. Having completed the long
tour of Auschwitz I, some visitors decline the opportunity to
visit Auschwitz II - Birkenau, however it’s here that the impact
of Auschwitz can be fully felt through the sheer size, scope
and solitude of the second camp. Added in 1942 Birkenau
contained 300 barracks and buildings on a vast site that
covered 175 hectares. Soon after the Wannsee Conference
on January 20, 1942, when Hitler and his henchmen
rubber-stamped the wholesale extermination of European
Jews, it grew to become the biggest and most savage of all
the Nazi death factories, with up to 100,000 prisoners held
there in 1944.
The purpose-built train tracks leading directly into the camp
still remain. Here a grim selection process took place with
70% of those who arrived herded directly into gas chambers.
Those selected as fit for slave labour lived in squalid, unheated
barracks where starvation, disease and exhaustion
accounted for countless lives. With the Soviets advancing,
the Nazis attempted to hide all traces of their crimes. Today
Jewish Centre
Auschwitz Jewish Centre & Chevra Lomdei
Mishnayot Synagogue (Centrum Żydowskie)
Pl. Ks. Jana Skarbka 5, Oświęcim, tel. (+48) 33 844
70 02, www.ajcf.org. This centre located 3km from
the Auschwitz museum maintains the town’s restored
synagogue, shows a film with testimonies of Holocaust
survivors and offers a specially tailored programme
for those who call ahead. It also features a permanent
exhibition on Jewish life in the town of Oświęcim before
World War II. Q Open 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat. From
March open 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. Admission 6zł.
The Nazi Perpetrators
Under occupation efforts were made to turn the town
into a model Nazi settlement with plans for wide green
spaces and modern estates. Aside from normal German
settlers the town saw 7,000 SS serve here and they
enjoyed a good community life complete with coffee
house, swimming pool, kindergarten and a profusion of
cultural events; at one stage the Dresden State Theatre
performed here. The SS pub was housed in a building
across from Oświęcim train station, and its top floor
was turned into a flat to serve Himmler during his visits.
After the war the hunt was on to find the people who
perpetrated the Holocaust. Camp Commandant Rudolf
Hoss was captured in 1946, while posing as a farm hand.
Sentenced to death he was hanged next to the gas chamber
of Auschwitz I on April 16, 1947. Others who faced
the hangman’s noose included the head of the women’s
camp, Maria Mandel, as well as her 22 year old sidekick
Irma Grese, aka the Beautiful Beast. Adolf Eichmann was
the mastermind behind mass Jewish deportations in the
Eastern territories. Having fled to Argentina after the war
he was kidnapped by Mossad agents, before facing the
trial of the century in Israel in which he was sentenced to
hang. Josef Mengele, the Angel of Death, served as the
camp doctor in Birkenau and supervised selections for
the gas chambers as well as brutal medical experiments
on children. He evaded justice and died in a swimming
accident in Brazil in the seventies.
little remains, with all gas chambers having been dynamited
and living quarters levelled. Climb the tower of the main gate
for a full impression of the complex’s size. Directly to the
right lie wooden barracks used as a quarantine area, while
across on the left hand side lie numerous brick barracks
which were home to the penal colony and also the women’s
camp. At the far end of the camp lie the mangled remains
of the crematoria, as well as a bleak monument unveiled
in 1967. After a comparably brief guided tour of the camp,
visitors are left to wander and reflect on their own before
catching the return bus to Auschwitz I.
Kraków In Your Pocket krakow.inyourpocket.com
krakow.inyourpocket.com
February - March 2013

114 TARNÓW
Diocesan Museum and Cathedral entrance
Eighty kilometres east of Kraków near the crossroads of
two ancient trade routes lies the charming and hospitable
city of Tarnów. Małopolska’s second city by size, Tarnów
is absolutely dwarfed by Kraków but features many of the
same cultural and architectural charms without the crushing
crowds, inflated prices and occasional feelings of herd mentality
that unfortunately come along with a tourist market the
size of Kraków’s. On the contrary, Tarnów offers tourists the
comforts of a small town with a long history and the cultural
intrigue and activities of a much bigger city. In addition to a
well-preserved medieval Old Town - which includes a glorious
cathedral, a cute market square and Town Hall, and many
pedestrian avenues - in Tarnów visitors will discover several
unique and worthwhile museums, wooden churches, historic
cemeteries, castle ruins and a scenic overlook, as well as
dozens of artistic and historical monuments at every turn.
Those with a special interest in Jewish history should be extra
motivated to visit Tarnów due to its deep Jewish heritage,
many traces of which are still in evidence today in the city’s
evocative Jewish district and large Jewish Cemetery. While
the town’s nightlife may not have the sizzle of Kraków, there
are still plenty of bars, cafes and restaurants, the best of
which we list here, where you’ll find it easy to meet friendly
local folks who are proud of their city and eager to present
a good impression to foreigners. All told it’s enough to easily
warrant spending at least one night, if not more, as in addition
to serving as a quiet, even romantic retreat from Kraków,
Tarnów also makes a superb base for exploring the wealth
of other nearby sites in the region, including the Castle at
Dębno, the folk art of Zalipie, and the salt mines of Bochnia.
You’ll find more information on Tarnów and all the surrounding
area has to offer on our website, but make sure you also
pay a visit to the fine folks at the Tourist Information office
when you arrive for more insights and to pick up a copy of
our special Tarnów mini-guide.
Getting There
Eighty kilometres east of Kraków at the crossroads of two
ancient trade routes between Germany and Ukraine as well
as Hungary and the Baltic Sea, Tarnów is easily reached by
road. A good network of train and bus services running in
and out of the city centre also link Tarnów with many major
destinations throughout Poland. The nearest airport is
Kraków Balice.
By Bus
Buses from Kraków to Tarnów run about once an hour,
with the first leaving as early as 06:30 and the last
bus back to Kraków departing at 21:45 (note that on
Thurs and Sun there is one more bus to Kraków at
22:05). PKS schedules aren’t famous for their long-
History in Brief
First mentioned in a document dated 1124, Tarnów
was granted city rights by King Władysław Łokietek in
1330 - an event celebrated by a fine monument of the
King on ul. Wałowa before the stairs leading up to Plac
Katedralny. It was at this time that the medieval layout
the city retains to this day was created, with the market
square and Town Hall at its centre.
A privately owned city until 1787, Tarnów’s greatest
period of growth came under the illustrious, avant-garde
nobleman Jan Tarnowski during the 16th century when
the Old Town was largely reconstructed in the manner
that today earns it the accolade of being Poland’s ‘Pearl
of the Renaissance.’ When the Tarnowski clan expired
without an heir in 1567, the city had already been incorporated
into the Austrian-Hungarian Empire during the
era of Polish partitions. Tarnów’s citizens were quick to
join the Polish legions when WWI broke out and the region
saw many battles between the Russian and Austro-
Hungarian armies, resulting in a trail of WWI memorial
sites and cemeteries in the city’s vicinity.
In October 1918 Tarnów gained notoriety when it became
the first Polish city to reclaim independence after 146
years of occupation, and again on August 28th, 1939
when German terrorists detonated an explosive in the
city’s train station killing 20 people, injuring 32, and leading
some historians to claim that WWII officially started here in
Tarnów. The bombs would start falling from the sky six days
later and by September 7th the Nazis had captured the city.
The first Jews settled in Tarnów in the mid-15th century
and by 1939 their numbers had reached 25,000 - nearly
half the city’s total population. On June 14th 1940, 728
Tarnów residents (mostly Poles, in fact) became the
first victims of Auschwitz; of 40,000 Jews crammed into
Tarnów’s ghetto, over 10,000 were executed and the
rest deported to the Belzeć death camp. Today Tarnów’s
Jewish heritage remains through several historical monuments
and sites in and around the former ghetto, though
no active Jewish community has survived.
Tarnów was a stronghold of resistance during Nazi occupation,
before eventual ‘liberation’ into the communist
regime on January 17, 1945. The city developed rapidly
in the postwar period as the monstrous soviet-era residential
blocks in the north-east part of the city became
home to over one-third of its 100,000 population in the
mid-70s. The rise in the prices of meat in July 1980 inspired
a series of strikes in Tarnów predating the Gdansk
shipyard strikes that would eventually lead to the communist
regime’s collapse by over a month. Since Poland’s
ascension to the EU in 2004, Tarnów has enjoyed the
revitalisation of its Old Town and is gaining an increasing
reputation as a noteworthy tourist destination.
term consistency however, so you may want to check
ahead. Minibuses also make the trip, departing from
across from the bus station, so don’t overlook that
option if you need it.
Main Bus Station A-6, ul. Dworcowa 1, tel. (+48) 703
40 33 23. Offering almost nothing in the way of services
or facilities aside from a currency exchange (kantor), toilets
downstairs, and a few kiosks selling mobile top-up vouchers
and snacks. Don’t be duped by the ticket windows, they
only sell monthly passes and local fares, which goes a long
way towards explaining why everyone just buys their tickets
from the driver. There are no ATMs, so if you need cash you’ll
have to go to the train station next door. To get into town,
Kraków In Your Pocket krakow.inyourpocket.com
find taxis parked outside, which will take you to the Rynek
for 10-12zł. Bus N°9 can be caught on ul. Krakowska (buy a
15min ticket for 2.20zł from one of the nearby kiosks), and
heads east along the same street before peeling right and
skirting around the southern edge of the Old Town. A walk
into the centre takes about 10 minutes. Q Ticket Office
open 06:00 - 22:00.
By Car
Tarnów is close to a number of major road routes in all
directions and is worth considering as a place to stop off for
a few hours or even for the night if you’re on a long journey.
Only 80km from Kraków, it’s an easy hour’s drive between
the two if you catch it at the right time, however traffic jams
are increasingly common and unpredictable, meaning the
journey could take anywhere between one and two hours.
The main road (the E4 highway) from Kraków leads right to
the market square and the most convenient place to park
is ul. Bernardyńska, by making a right on ul. Targowa and
then your next left on Bernardyńska. Parking must be paid
Mon-Fri 08:00-18:00, Sat 08:00-15:00 (Sun free), with
some complicated math dictating the price depending how
long you will be there (for example: 1zł/30mins, 2zł/1hr,
4.20zł/2hrs, 6.80zł/3hrs, after which it’s an additional
2zł for every hour over 3, or 14 for the whole day). Buy a
ticket from the kiosk, cross off the proper time and from
there the market square and tourist info office are just one
block to your north.
By Train
Tarnów is served by some 40 or so trains every day from
Kraków, with a journey time of between 80 and 120 minutes
depending on whether you take a local or express train.
krakow.inyourpocket.com
TARNÓW
Main Train Station A-6, Pl. Dworcowy 4, tel. (+48) 22
39 19 757 (from foreign mobile phones), www.rozklad.
pkp.pl. Following an extensive renovation, Tarnow’s train station
reopened in November 2010, exactly one hundred years after its
original opening in November 1910. While the original character
of the building was retained - including Edmund Cieszkiewicz’s
paintings of the Tatra and Pieniny mountains which were funded by
the early train owners over a century ago - it has been converted
into a modern passenger centre with all the services a modern
station requires. A tourist info point is open Mon-Fri 08:30 - 13:00
(however closing times may vary depending on demand), and one
of the two ticket offices procliams to stay open 24 hours. Find
also a kiosk, shop, cafe, underground restaurant and the BWA
Gallery. Walking to the centre takes about 10mins while a taxi
from outside the station will cost about 10-12zł.
Tourist Information
Tourist Information Centre D-4, Rynek 7, tel.
(+48) 14 688 90 90, www.tarnow.travel. One of
the most helpful offices in all of PL, make this your first
port of call on arrival. Here you’ll find a wide range of
free information on Tarnów and the surrounding region,
free internet (browse away), a few souvenirs, bicycle
rental and there’s even accommodation available
upstairs. If you’re interested in a gadget-led tour, there
are nine different mp3 audio tours of the main sights for
hire, in addition to a GPS guide called Navigo City Tour.
The friendly, knowledgeable and enthusiastic Englishspeaking
staff, can give you a better idea of what that
is, plus whatever information or advice you can’t find in
this guide, so don’t be shy. Q Open 08:00 - 18:00, Sat
09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun.
February - March 2013
115

116 TARNÓW TARNÓW 117
Rynek & The Old Town
Retaining its original medieval layout of latticed streets
and central market square (Rynek) reached by stairways
from a lower, surrounding loop (formerly the city walls
and defensive towers), Tarnów’s exemplary Old Town
began life in the 14th century, although most of what
now stands dates from later on. Its crowning glory is the
Rynek, a wide-open plaza surrounded on all four sizes
by fine Renaissance merchant houses dating from the
16th to the 18th century.
At the centre of the Rynek stands the Town Hall, a
lovely 15th-century building originally constructed in
the Gothic style and remodelled at the end of the 16th
century in a classic Renaissance manner, topped off with
an idiosyncratic 30m tower from which a bugler plays
Tarnów’s ‘hejnał’ - a short traditional melody - every day
at 12:00. Small compared to its vast Cracovian cousin,
the Old Town is still interesting enough to warrant a good
investigation, and includes a fairly well preserved Jewish
quarter to the east, one remaining defensive tower
and a pleasant pedestrian street, hugging its northern
edge and featuring several interesting buildings as well
as a number of monuments. In the spring and summer
the Rynek comes to life with tables and chairs from the
multitude of cafes and bars (and surprisingly few restaurants)
lining it and has a warm and welcoming appeal.
Hotels
Bristol C-4/5, ul. Krakowska 9, tel. (+48) 880 47
74 77, www.hotelbristol.com.pl. Enjoy a sumptuous
atmosphere of slightly flamboyant grandeur inside
Tarnów’s most exclusive hotel. Bristol’s immaculate
rooms come with minibars, cable television, spacious
beds and a choice of en suite facilities with either a
shower or bath. Extras include plenty of elegant chandeliers,
Doric columns that don’t actually support anything,
a solarium, gym and an outrageously pink honeymoon
apartment featuring a large Jacuzzi. Q17 rooms (4
singles, 5 doubles, 2 triples, 4 suites, 2 apartments).
PTHA6FGKW hhhh
U Jana D-4, Rynek 14, tel. (+48) 14 626 05 64, www.
hotelujana.pl. An excellent choice, with 12 apartments
boasting views of the market square, all at a great value
with prices varying based on size and standard. Where
they get all these oil paintings is beyond comprehension,
but there’s a barrage of them on the ground floor and you’ll
find some in your quarters as well. Suites are stylised quite
tastefully to represent the Renaissance history of the build-
ing, with large beds in handsome frames, wooden floors and
modern facilities including satellite television and wifi. It’s
an unbeatable location, the downstairs restaurant is more
reliable than many in the area as well, and now there’s a new
billiards room to keep you busy. Q12 rooms (12 apartments).
PTHA6GKW
Restaurants
Soprano C-5, ul. Mościckiego 6, tel. (+48) 14 621
09 09, www.soprano-tarnow.pl. Just when we’d given up
on having a nice meal out in Tarnów, Soprano saves our
appetite. This is bona fide fine dining, from the exceptional
Italian cuisine down to the gold tablecloths. Unfortunately
the best seats in the house are only seasonal - when the
outdoor garden full of plants and flowers is open, and you
can watch the chef at work with the brick, wood-fired pizza
oven - but that shouldn’t stop you from making this one of
your meals out when in town. The soups are delicious and
come with fresh olive bread, while our veal cutlets with
Parma ham and sage gravy (38zł) was a worthy follow-up.
Probably the most money you can spend on a meal out
in Tarnów, and still a heck of a bargain.QOpen 10:00 -
22:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 23:00, Sun 11:00 - 22:00. (17-44zł).
PTAUGSW
Tatrzańska C-4, ul. Krakowska 1, tel. (+48) 14 622
46 36, www.kudelski.pl. A very friendly and relaxed affair,
featuring English-speaking waiters in bow ties and a classy
menu. Among the extravagant-sounding dishes on offer are
the recommended beef tartare, Polish mountain cheese and
scampi in brandy sauce. The wine list offers the chance to try
regional labels, there’s a fine selection of desserts, and it’s
all wrapped up in an elegant ambience of potted palms and
paintings of Old Tarnów. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00. (18-45zł).
PTAUXSW
U Włocha E-4, ul. Żydowska 16, tel. (+48) 14 656
22 77, www.pizzeriauwlocha.com. In a town full of pizza
shops, this authentic Italian eatery owned and operated
by a charming Italian-Polish couple quickly outclasses the
competition by bringing not just the flavours of Italy to Tarnów,
but also its warmth and hospitality, expressed in that most
Italian of methods - with a full table of delicious food. All the
traditional dishes are present - from ravioli to risotto - and all
come with fresh ingredients, affordable prices and charming
service from the people that prepared them. There’s also a
great selection of Italian wines, imported sodas, and Peroni
bottles for only 7.5zł. Despite the interior being full of reliefs
that look a bit like they belong in a Roman bath, this is a great
family restaurant you’ll be happy to have found. On Saturdays
one of the back rooms becomes a dance floor presided over
by local DJs. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00. AVXSW
Bars & Pubs
Basteja D-4, ul. Kapitulna 8, tel. (+48) 14 656 42 02,
www.pubbasteja.pl. Finding Basteja comes as a relief, as it
validates the hope that there must be at least one cool cafe/
bar hidden somewhere in this city. Hidden indeed it is - in a
passageway between ul. Kapitulna and ul. Wałowa - and it
owes a lot to its location which comprises part of Tarnów’s
ancient city walls. On one side you’ll find an ethereal red
interior with tasteful lighting and black and white photography
of Old Tarnów on the walls, while across the passage you
can’t miss the magnificent summer beer garden inside the
ruins of the bastion it takes its name from. Either way, this
is one of the most laidback locales around and you’re likely
to leave with it near the top of your list of trip highlights. Q
Open 10:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 17:00 - 23:00. GW
Leprikon Irish Pub D-4, ul. Rynek 16, tel. (+48) 696
18 75 22. Fetching a great location on the market square,
this relatively new Irish pub is a welcome addition to Tarnów
- a city suffering from a severe lack of decent watering holes.
Leprikon looks the part with lots of lucky green and dark wood
fittings, 2 TVs beaming live sports, Guinness on draft (14zł)
and even a full Irish breakfast on offer (14zł). In addition to
the breakfast menu, this is one of a scant number of places
on the market square that will feed you a proper meal, from
Shepherd’s Pie (15zł) to local specialties, burgers and other
pub grub. Though hardly original or wholly authentic, Leprikon’s
effort is still one most will appreciate, and symbolises
a recent shift for the city from one that people are queuing
to leave, to one that foreign punters now consider invading
on holiday. Congrats, Tarnów. QOpen 10:00 - 23:30, Fri, Sat
10:00 - 24:00. AGW
Churches
Cathedral D-4, Pl. Katedralny, tel. (+48) 14 621 58
85, www.katedra.tarnow.opoka.org.pl. Dating from the
14th century with major additions and rebuilds in the 15th
and 19th centuries, the Neo-Gothic Cathedral of the Nativity
of the Virgin Mary, just northwest of the Rynek and one
of the oldest brick buildings in the city, must rate as one of
the most impressive parish churches in Poland. Of note is
the 16th-century portal, the impressive several-metre-long
monuments to the Tarnowski and Ostrogski families, a number
of extraordinary paintings and the impressive, 72-metre
tower, a handy point of reference when getting lost in one
of Tarnów’s many rambling back streets. Some nice recent
additions are also evident, including the fabulously ornate
sculpted metal doors on the southern side of the building.
QOpen 06:00 - 18:30, Sun 06:00 - 20:30. No visiting during
mass please.
St. Mary’s Church (Sanktuarium Matki Bożej
Szkaplerznej) D-5, ul. Najświętszej Marii Panny 1,
tel. (+48) 14 621 31 75. Known locally as the ‘Church
by the Burek’, this beautiful little Gothic larch wood church
is only a four block walk south from the market square,
across from the Old Cemetery. Consecrated in 1462, St.
Mary’s is home to a painting of the Virgin Mary and Child to
which several miracles are attributed. If you can get yourself
inside, the first thing you’ll notice is the extraordinary smell
of wood, a miniature organ, painted flowers on the ceiling
and a few remaining touches of the original hand-painted
wall paintings. Lovely. Q Open during mass only and by
prior arrangemet.
Museums
Diocesan Museum (Muzeum Diecezjalne) D-4, Pl.
Katedralny 6, tel. (+48) 14 621 99 93, www.muzeum.
diecezja.tarnow.pl. To paraphrase the late John Paul II,
the Church needs art to better understand what lies inside
the soul of man, and Tarnów’s superb Diocesan Museum,
established in 1888, does a very good job at doing just
that. An astonishing collection of religious art from the
15th century onwards, housed inside an equally wonderful
ensemble of 16th-century houses, the museum’s most precious
artefact is the original alter from St. Leonard’s church
in nearby Lipnica Murowana, moved here for preservation
reasons at the insistence of UNESCO. Other highlights include
some truly breathtaking Gothic triptychs and sculptures from
Małopolska, a collection of church fabrics from the Middle
Ages and a few pieces of 19th-century religious folk art. A
marvellous and highly recommended experience. Q Open
10:00 - 12:00, 13:00 - 15:00, Sun 09:00 - 12:00, 13:00 -
14:00. Closed Mon. Admission free.
Ethnographic Museum
(Muzeum
Etnograficzne)
C-5, ul. Krakowska
10, tel. (+48) 14
622 06 25, www.
muzeum.tarnow.pl.
As well as highlighting
local ethnographic
traditions, this better
than average collection
includes a large
celebration of Roma
(Gypsy) culture, which
is allegedly the only
such collection in
Europe. A truly fascinating,
if slightly
dated, exhibition tracing Roma culture in Poland from
its beginnings in the 15th century to their fate at the
hands of the Nazis and beyond, the three rooms that
make up the exhibition include some excellent maps,
models, costumes and photographs, all of which are
best seen with the aid of a small and very good booklet,
The Gypsies, written by the museum’s curator Adam
Bartosz and available in English for just 3zł. There are
still about 350 Roma living in Tarnów, and their culture
is still very much alive. In the museum’s back garden
you’ll find several traditionally painted gypsy caravans.
Q Open 09:00 - 15:00, Tue 10:00 - 17:00, Sun 10:00 -
14:00. Closed Mon, Sat. Admission 5/3zł. Sun free. Note
that prices are subject to change.
Tarnów District Museum (Gmach Główny) D-4,
Rynek 20-21, tel. (+48) 14 621 21 49, www.muzeum.
tarnow.pl. This Renaissance building dates back to 1565
and includes beautiful arcades and an extensive wine cellar.
In 1780 it was adapted to be the headquarters of Austrian
General d’Altona who took the city in 1772. From the 19th
century the building was in Jewish possession until after
the war when it received a major renovation and has since
been owned by the city. Now the headquarters of the Tarnów
District Museum, the building hosts temporary regional exhibits
- currently a cycle displaying the work of local artisits
which changes each month. Q Open 09:00 - 15:00, Tue
09:00 - 17:00, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon, Sat. Admission
4/2zł, Sun free.
Town Hall Museum (Ratusz) D-4, Rynek 1,
tel. (+48) 14 621 21 49, www.muzeum.tarnow.pl.
Worth a visit for a peep inside the Town Hall alone, this
extraordinary collection over two floors includes glass,
porcelain and silver, and the most extensive collection of
18th-century Sarmatian portraits in the country. Two new
permanent exhibits have also been added: the Hunter’s
Armoury and the Sarmatian Armoury. Sarmatism, if you’re
wondering, was a beguiling infusion of lifestyle, culture
and ideology that predominated the Polish nobility from
the 17th to 19th century. Based on the mistaken and
rather amusing belief that Poles were descended from
a loose confederation of ancient Iranian tribes, Polish
Sarmatism evolved over the centuries from a set of values
based on pacifism into a full-blown warrior philosophy that
endorsed horseback riding, outrageous behaviour and a
propensity for lavish Oriental clothing and huge, handlebar
moustaches. The Town Hall Tower can also be ascended
if arranged ahead of time, and offers panoramic views for
an extra 10zł. Q Open 09:00 - 15:00, Tue 09:00 - 17:00,
Sun 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon, Sat. Admission 5/3zł,
family ticket 10zł. Sun free.
Kraków In Your Pocket krakow.inyourpocket.com
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February - March 2013

118
TYSKIE
Tyskie Brewery (Tyskie Browary Książęce) ul.
Mikołowska 5 (entrance from Katowicka 9), Tychy,
tel. (+48) 32 327 84 30, www.tyskiebrowarium.pl.
The Tyskie Browary Książęce, in the town of Tychy (German
Tichau) some 10km south of Katowice has been brewing beer
continuously for nearly 400 years. And because of its Silesian
location it has witnessed a number of historic events over the
years with its own history reflecting that of the region. The
originally German-owned brewery now produces the famous
Tyskie Gronie, Poland’s best selling beer, and Tyskie Browary
Książęce’s (or just Tyskie) impressive ensemble of buildings
also includes a superb little museum which is open to the
public for tours. Taking about 2.5 hours and led by a friendly
and informative, English-speaking guide, the Tyskie tour
takes visitors through the entire brewing process. Starting
in the immaculately preserved Old Brewery, a masterpiece of
original decorative tiles and old copper vats installed during
WWI that have had modern brewing equipment cleverly put
inside them, the tour follows the brewing process from start
to finish and also offers a fascinating insight into the history
of the factory. Highlights include the so-called Bachelors’
Quarters and the saucy tales that go with them, a glimpse
of the brewery’s own railway station and, across the road,
a look inside the fabulously fragrant bottling plant. Now
producing over 8,000,000 hectolitres of booze annually (or
to put it another way, if you put all that beer into half litre
bottles and laid them end to end you’d have a line of beer
80,000km long), the rise of the brewery is recorded inside the
superb Brewery Museum, complete with interactive displays
in English and housed inside a red brick neo-Gothic church
built in 1902. Tours must be booked in advance, and yes,
there’s a tasting session at the end. The tours are conducted
in Polish, English, German, Spanish, French, Italian, Czech,
Russian and in the local Silesian dialect (if you ever wanted
to hear what that might sound like). The museum building
also houses the local City Museum, which is well worth having
a look inside if you’ve got the time, while the town itself is
also worth exploring to properly cap your trip to Tychy.QOpen
10:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. Last entrance 2,5 hours before
closing. Visitors must be over 18 and should call in advance
to book a place on the tour. Admission 12/6zł.
Getting There
The easiest way to get to Tychy from Kraków is by car
and the 85km journey will take about an hour and a half.
Alternatively you can get there from Kraków by train which
involves a change in Katowice and takes about two and
a half hours. The brewery is a short walk southeast from
Tychy train station.
Kraków In Your Pocket krakow.inyourpocket.com
While drinking in cafes and beer gardens is probably the
number one local leisure activity, our Leisure section is
geared more for those looking for outdoor activities on a
beautiful day, or how to stay active on an ugly one. Generally,
Cracovians are spoiled with recreation opportunities, if only
for the fact that the Old Town is a joy to stroll around when
the sun is out and features several unique green spaces,
particularly the Planty and Błonia (see Outdoor Attractions),
the latter of which is home to an ice rink in winter.
Other highlights include Las Wolski (Wolski Forest), which
is home to Kościuszko and Piłsudski Mounds, as well
as the Zoo, and provides plenty of hiking opportunities.
Cracovians also love getting out of town, whether it be short
day-outings to Tyniec and Ojców (both of which you can
expect to be packed on sunny weekends), or mountains
excursions to the Beskidy and Tatra ranges to the south.
Zakopane is an especially popular destination for skiing
in winter and hiking in the summer. Use the listings below
to keep active in every season.
Adrenaline Sports
Safe War ul. Żółkiewskiego 17 (Grzegórzki), tel. (+48)
505 16 55 63, www.paintball-krakow.pl. Paintball for
groups of at least 8 people. The fact that there’s a bar calls
the merit of the name in for review, but we guess it takes the
edge off. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. 60zł per person (8 person
minimum). Prices negotiable for groups of more than 20. 100
additional pellets 20zł.
WRT Karting ul. Nowolipki 3 (entrance from ul.
Makuszynskiego, Bieńczyce), tel. (+48) 509 43 70
61, www.wrt-karting.pl. Spin your wheels around this 250
metre indoor go-karting course north of Nowa Huta. 8mins
of track time is 20zł, 16mins is 35zł, 24mins 50zł. You can
get there by hopping on bus 182 at the bus station (‘Dworzec
Główny Wshód’ stop) and getting off over 20 stops later at
‘Nowolipki.’ QOpen 14:00 - 23:00, Fri 12:00 - 23:00, Sat
11:00 - 23:00, Sun 11:00 - 22:00.
Bowling & Billiards
Cue Bar K-2, ul. Mogilska 35, tel. (+48) 12 417 22 10,
www.cuebar.pl. Kraków’s first proper billiards bar, Cue Bar
takes it seriously. Judging by the prices, maybe a little too
seriously. Eight tables in total: three professional snooker
tables (18zł/hr), two eight-foot pool tables and three ninefoot
pool tables in the attic (15-17zł/hr). And beer, of course.
Call if you’re interested in tournaments or private lessons.
QOpen 13:00 - 22:30.
Fantasy Park L-2, Al. Pokoju 44, tel. (+48) 12 290 95
15, www.krakow.fantasypark.pl. The city’s best bowling
lanes, an arcade, billiards and rumpus room for the kids.
Take trams 1, 14 or 22, getting off at ‘Kraków Plaza.’ Also
taking night bus 609 and hopping off at the ‘Dąbie’ stop will
get you there after 23:00. QOpen 10:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat
10:00 - 03:00, Sun 11:00 - 02:00.
The Stage B-1, ul. Łobzowska 3, tel. (+48) 12 681
63 85, www.the-stage.pl. Probably Kraków’s most
atmospheric billiards club, The Stage is much more than
just a pool hall. There’s a full kitchen serving quality
international cuisine and in the evenings this laid-back
hangout features a range of events including concerts,
cabarets, and karaoke with a live band as locals rack
‘em up on the seven handsome billiards tables in front of
the street-side windows. QOpen 10:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat
10:00 - 04:00. Cost of a table ranges between 5-20zł
depending on time of day.
krakow.inyourpocket.com
Zakrzówek
LEISURE
Zakrzówek G-5. This fantastic reservoir just beyond the
city centre was serendipitously created when the limestone
quarry operating here accidentally pierced the water table.
Though officially prohibited and the site of frequent accidents,
the irresistible blue, seemingly bottomless water is
immensely popular with locals for swimming and cliff diving
in summer. If you want to get in on the action we recommend
you do so through the scuba diving school that operates
here; the depth varies from 7-21m (23-69ft) and the bottom
is cluttered with all kinds of things that shouldn’t be there:
several vehicles and sunken boats, as well as the former
changing rooms of the quarry workers. The surrounding
limestone bluffs and woods are an additional attraction
- a favoured place for summer barbecues, ideal for hiking
and a favourite for local rock-climbers, whose anchors you
may notice sticking out of the cliff faces. The area is also
the fabled former stomping ground of Kraków’s legendary
alchemist and occultist Pan Twardowski, who purportedly
had his workshop in one of the caves. Nearby, intrepid
adventurers will also discover access to large, abandoned
and very creepy Austrian bunkers carved in the cliffs. A
great place to go exploring, the nearest bus stops are
‘Grota-Roweckiego’ and ‘Kapelanka;’ the nearest tram stop
is the ‘Kapelanka’ stop near Tesco.
Horse Riding
Pegaz Horse Riding ul. Łowińskiego 1 (Wzgórza
Czesławickie), tel. (+48) 12 425 80 88, www.ojkpegaz.
pl. Riding lessons for professionals and amateurs near Nowa
Huta. QOpen 15:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. Closed
Mon. Prices for beginners 60zł/1hr, advanced 40zł/1hr, for
10hrs is 400zł.
Stadnina Podskalany ul. Podskalany 61, Tomaszowice,
tel. (+48) 606 91 50 09, www.stadnina.podskalany.pl.
Trail-riding, ‘natural horsemanship’ instruction,
and riding lessons offered for beginners and experienced
riders, in groups or individually. Located in the picturesque
Jura Highlands just 10km northwest of Kraków. Q Lessons
can be arranged by calling ahead. Prices are 35zł/40mins
for individual beginners, 55zł/hr for advanced, 35zł/hr for
group instruction.
Ice Skating
Galeria Krakowska Ice Rink E-2, Pl. Jana Nowaka
Jeziorańskiego, tel. (+48) 662 40 47 84. This seasonal
ice rink is part of the extensive holiday shenanigans occupying
the square in front of the train station and Galeria
Krakowska shopping mall this year, which also includes a
Christmas fair and carousel. There are even lockers on hand
so you secure your luggage and hit the ice immediately after
jumping off the train. Kraków’s cheapest ice time, rates are
6zł/hour, 6zł skate rental and 2zł for a locker. QOpen 09:00
- 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00. Closed from March.
February - March 2013
119

120 LEISURE LEISURE 121
Błonia Meadow
Błonia Meadow G-3. A massive and inexplicably
undeveloped tract of greenery directly west of the Old
Town, the Błonia is a huge, triangular open space measuring
nearly 50 hectares. Technically a park, although
lacking any trees or other defining characteristics, the
Polish name ‘Błonie’ denotes a ‘meadow’ - something of
an amiable linguistic redressing of the Błonia’s true and
unchanged historical function: it’s a cow pasture. The
area’s ability to survive to modern times as the largest
city centre open space in Europe can be accredited to a
perfect storm of boggy undesirability, a centuries-long
ownership dispute, and finally a medieval legislative
wrinkle. Used by locals to graze cattle even midway into
the 20th century, when the now-defunct Cracovia Hotel
was built next to it in 1965 the city moved to permanently
ban unfashionable bovines from the Błonia, only to find
themselves obstructed by an apparently still legally
binding 14th century decree by Queen Jadwiga which
they would have to sort out with Warsaw. Warsaw not
being the most cooperative or expedient bureaucratic
partner in those times, city council decided to stick with
the status quo, making it perfectly acceptable for you to
air old Bessie on the Błonia to this day. Though a great
idea for a city-wide one day annual event (called ‘Bovines
on the Błonia’, tell the mayor to get in touch with my
agent for more details), these days you’ll find the green
triangle has primarily become the favourite leisure space
of dogs and their frisbee chasing, ball playing owners,
while the perimeter is a popular track for cycling, running
and roller-blading. Protected as a National Heritage Site
since 2000, the Błonia is ideal for large-scale outdoor
events, hosting numerous concerts, rallies and - most
notably - historic open air masses by the Pope during
his visits to Kraków.
MKS Cracovia E-4, ul. Siedleckiego 7, tel. (+48) 12
292 91 00, www.cracovia.pl. Behind Hala Targowa, this
ice rink is open to the public when regular peewee hockey
games aren’t happening. As we went to press that meant,
Mon and Thu at 20:30, Wed at 16:00 and 20:00, Thu 20:30,
Sat 13:00, 15:00, 17:00, 19:00, Sun 11:00, 13:00, 15:00,
17:00 and 19:00 (though matches may deny availability
Sundays at 17:00 and 19:00). You may want to check the
website or call first to be sure. Q 11/9zł for 1.5 hours, 8-9zł
skate rental, 2zł cloak room fee.
Outdoor Attractions & Parks
Kraków Zoo ul. Kasy Oszczędności Miasta Krakowa
14 (Krowodrza), tel. (+48) 12 425 35 51, www.zookrakow.pl.
Take bus number 134 from close to the Cracovia
Stadium (ul. Kałuży, H-3) to make a visit to Kraków’s Zoo.
Entrance costs 18/10zł and the zoo features some 300
species, including South American sea lions, camels, dwarf
caimans and a surprisingly impressive array of brightlyplumed
pheasants (our favorite). Most of the exhibits are
outdoors in the natural setting of Las Wolski forest and there
is surprisingly little to get depressed about. Recommended.
Q Open 09:00 - 15:00. Last entrance 1 hour before closing.
Opening hours are subject to change.
Piłsudski Mound Al. do Kopca (Wolski Forest). Talk
of building a mound in honour of Poland’s inter-war hero
and leader Józef Piłsudski were underway even before his
death in 1935, and by 1937 it was complete. Levelling the
structure was on the list of things the Nazis never got around
to and the man-made earthwork was later vandalised when
communist tanks pulled down the huge granite cross that
once stood at its peak. Like Polish independence, the mound
has since been restored and is commonly referred to as
‘Independence’ or ‘Freedom Mound’ today. The view from
the top, which peeks above the trees of surrounding Wolski
Forest, is excellent; on a clear day the Tatras are visible to
the south. To reach it take bus 134 from Cracovia Stadium
to the Zoo and follow the red-blazed hiking trail to the mound
(about a 25min walk).
Planty C-4/5. Once the site of the city’s 13th century defensive
fortifications, the moats were filled, the walls razed
and the towers demolished - with the notable exceptions
of the grand Floriańska Gate and impenetrable Barbican
- during Austrian occupation in the first half of the 19th
century. While today it’s easy to regret the short-sighted
destruction of Kraków’s medieval city walls, we can thank
the Austrians for replacing them with this lovely strollway
of greenery encircling the centre of the Old Town. Known
as the ‘lungs of the city’, the Planty is one of Kraków’s most
unique and charming features - three kilometres of public
parks and gardens filled with trees, flowers, benches and
historic monuments. Walking its circuit would take over an
hour, but represents a great way to see the city. A popular
place for street musicians to perform, drunks to drink and
teenage couples to make out, if you haven’t kissed someone
on a park bench in the Planty before leaving town, well
you haven’t finished your itinerary.
Skiing
Kraków is conveniently located just an hour north of the Tatra
Mountains and within easy striking distance of popular ski
destinations like Koniki, Białka Tatrzańska and Zakopane -
Poland’s winter capital and home to the best skiing in the
country. The best way to get from Kraków to the Tatras is
by car or bus. Getting to popular Zakopane in particular is
a snap with buses leaving from Kraków’s main bus station
and back with regularity.
Krakow Valley Golf & Country Club Paczółtowice
328, tel. (+48) 12 258 85 00, www.krakow-valley.
com. Probably the closest skiing to Kraków you’ll find;
as such, it’s fairly tame with the real mountains being
further south. On offer are 3 ski lifts of 100m, 360m and
650m. One trip costs 2/3zł while a 2-hour pass costs
20-25zł or 30zł at weekends. Full equipment rental also
available with prices ranging from 20zł for up to 2 hours
to 35zł for all day. Snowmobile hire also available (90zł
for 30 minutes, 160zł for 60 minutes or 120/220zł at
weekends). To reach them you’ll either need a car or
take a train or bus from Kraków to Krzeszowice (journey
takes 20 minutes) and then a private bus to Paczółtowice
(7 minutes).
Skarpa Travel D-5, ul. Dietla 50, tel. (+48) 12 619 48
00, www.skarpatravel.pl. This firm has a convenient office
on the market square and organises day-trips to popular ski
destinations like Białka Tatrzańska, Jurgów and Wierholme.
Transport is provided for 30-45zł (depending on destination)
and space on the slopes is guaranteed. Pay an additional
60-70zł for the ski pass when you get there.
Snow Sports C-1, ul. Krowoderska 58/13, tel. (+48)
12 357 13 45, www.snowsports.pl. Snow boarding and
ski lessons for beginners or those more advanced during
Saturday trips to Białka Tatrzańska or Czarna Góra. Includes
transport, insurance and instructor supervision for the entire
day. 90zł per person.
Sleigh Rides
The winter alternative of a horse-drawn carriage ride
around Kraków’s market square, a sleigh ride through the
countryside is arguably more magical and romantic, and
makes a great family outing. A traditional ride typically
includes a large horse-drawn sled kitted out with sleigh bells
and flaming torches winding through the beautiful snowdraped
valleys surrounding Kraków and concludes with a
forest bonfire, grilled sausages, tea or warm honey vodka.
The companies listed here offer such excursions for all ages
from the season’s first snowfall.
Ecotravel M-2, Os. Niepodległości 3a/5a (Nowa Huta),
tel. (+48) 12 681 36 92, www.ecotravel.pl. Organising
sleigh rides through the gorgeous Ojców National Park,
24km northwest of Kraków. Included in the price of the
sleigh ride are torches, a bonfire with sausages and hot
wine/or tea (you can bring along your own vodka). They can
tailor a tour to your requirements, taking in, for example, the
Kazimierz Castle ruins. Rides take approximately one hour,
prices depend on the number in your party, and excursions
are available whenever there’s snow on the ground. English
speaking staff also available. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00, Sat
10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.
Stadnina Podskalany ul. Podskalany 61, Tomaszowice,
tel. (+48) 606 91 50 09, www.stadnina.podskalany.pl.
In addition to horse riding lessons, ‘natural
horsemanship’ instruction and trail riding, this outfit offers
sleigh rides for all ages from the first winter snowfall until
spring arrives. Located about 10km northwest of Kraków,
rides are conducted through the enchanting forests and
valleys of the Jura Highland and can include bonfires with
grilled sausage. Call to arrange times and cost.
Spa & Beauty
Book-a-balance Mobile Spa, tel. (+48) 503 63 39
03, www.book-a-balance.pl. This mobile spa service
brings the pampering straight to you. Qualified and experienced
professionals arrive at your apartment or hotel room
with all the necessary equipment to make you feel like royalty,
ensuring that you literally don’t have to lift a finger beyond
making the call. Offering a range of massages (90-180zł) and
beauty treatments (70-150zł). Q Available 7 days a week
between 08:00 and 22:00.
Chaiyo Thai Massage Centre
E-4, ul. Dietla 103/2, tel. (+48)
12 422 65 49, www.tajskimasaz.
pl. Authentic Thai massages: improve
blood and limphatic circulation, release
physical and mental tension,
strengthen the immune system, improve flexibility of
joints, remove toxins. Performed solely by highly qualified
Thai masseuses trained at Wat Pho Temple in Bangkok.
The offer: Classical Thai massage, Herbal compresses,
Relaxing massage with essential oils, Massage for
the physically active, Feet’n’legs reflexology, Back &
shoulders & head massage etc. Receive a 10% discount
when you present In Your Pocket. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00.
Massages 100-300zł.
Vanilla SPA H-4, ul. Flisacka 3 (Hotel Art Niebieski
& SPA), tel. (+48) 12 297 40 04, www.vanillaspa.
pl. This luxurious spa in the centre of the new five star
Niebieski hotel is a palace of pampering for your mind
and body thanks to a variety of holistic treatments in
relaxing environs. Spoil your skin through a series of
peels and masks using top of line cosmetics and munch
on organic ‘bio snacks’ courtesy of the Vanilla Sky restaurant
between trips to the sauna, steam bath, and
massage tables. Walk in for a free consultation to have
the on-hand hands-on experts create your own personal
care programme. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00.
Swimming & Diving
Those looking to go swimming in Kraków will be best served
by doing so in a hotel (of which the pool in Hotel Stary - C-2,
ul. Szczepańska 5 - is among the best in the Old Town and
open to walk-ins). This is due to the fact that most swimming
pools in Kraków are regularly used by schools and fitness
clubs making their opening hours to the rest of the public
almost impossible to divulge. For a sure bet head to Kraków’s
Water Park. Note that in the warm months, the most popular
outdoor swimming locations for locals are the Kryspinów
Lagoon and Zalew Bagry.
Kraków Water Park (Park Wodny) L-1, ul. Dobrego
Pasterza 126, tel. (+48) 12 616 31 90, www.
parkwodny.pl. The biggest indoor pool complex in Poland
includes 800 metres of water slides for all ages, dragon and
pirate play areas, massage fountains, climbing walls, wave
machines, swings and other in-water activites, this incredible
aquatic playground is the thing your kid will remember most
about Kraków. You won’t have such a bad time yourself with
access to saunas, jacuzzis, fitness and wellness centres and
a pool-side cafe from which you can watch your little terrors
try to dunk each other. Prices to the pool vary but are in the
range of 14-23zł for one hour, and 48-54zł for day access.
QOpen 08:00 - 22:00.
Kraków In Your Pocket krakow.inyourpocket.com
krakow.inyourpocket.com
February - March 2013

122 SHOPPING
Gift Shopping At a Glance
Below we’ve tried to identify some uniquely Polish (and/
or Cracovian) gift ideas for everyone on your list:
Girlfriend/Wife: Two words: jewellery and chocolate.
For the first choose a beautiful piece of ‘Baltic gold’ from
World of Amber, and for the second head to Karmello
or Cracow Chocolate Factory for some local sweets
that are both artistic and delicious.
Boyfriend/Husband: If you really want to spoil your
man, head to Wittchen and outfit him in a luxury
leather jacket, or perhaps something more practical
and affordable like a hand-made wallet. If hubby has a
taste for tipples, turn him on to Polish vodka brands
like Żubrówka or Goldwasser, or head to Szambelan
where you can decant one of their exclusive meads,
absinthes or flavoured vodkas into a handsome gift
bottle.
Mother: Amber always wins with women, so stop at
World of Amber to pick out a pendant mom will be proud
to wear. All moms also love Bolesławiec folk pottery, so
head to Dekor Art.
Father: As a man matures he needs a good hat,
no? The ‘Chorąży Czapki i Kapelusze’ hatmaker’s
workshop has a surprisingly stylish assortment of
hand-made hats that would look great on Dad. Or try
Krakowski Antykwariat Naukowy for something
old, odd and aesthetic that might be more Dad’s style.
If that fails, try what the Poles do when things aren’t
working out: vodka.
Sister: The appeal of amber will hold true for any woman
on your list, or try the natural, monk-made lotions and
cosmetics of Produkty Benedyktyńskie. If sis is a bit of
a bookworm, head to Massolit’s Polish literature section
to pick out something of local interest.
Brother: For home boy hit Idea Fix and peruse their
collection of locally designed hoodies, t-shirts and other
urban gear. If your brother’s more of an intellectual,
search for a unique 3-player chess set, or fine-crafted
wooden traditional chessboard in the stalls of the Cloth
Hall. If the young man’s an artist, pick out an avant-garde
Polish film or theatre poster from the vast collection at
Galeria Plakatu.
Children: Historically, ‘childhood innocence’ hasn’t been
a very long-lived developmental stage amongst Poles.
Apparently a privilege of the rich, what few toys there
are for sale in PL are outrageously expensive compared
to everything else. If the kids are infants, head straight
to Bajo for some stylishly wholesome and locally-made
wooden toys, or Galeria Bukowski for a Cracovian
teddy bear. You can also keep up a Polish tradition by
teaching your kids the art of queuing from an early age
by picking up Poland’s best and most amusing board
game, Kolejka.
Grandparents: The land of babcias has plenty that
will please the old folks back home, including linen
and lacework from the Cloth Hall, Bolesławiec folk
ceramic from Dekor Art, local jarred foodstuffs from
Krakowski Kredens, or a Kraków photo album from
House of Albums.
While Kraków cannot be considered a shoppers’ paradise in
the traditional sense, its artsy reputation makes it a great
place to pick up antiques, artwork and jewellery. Areas of
note include Kazimerz and the open air markets - particularly
Plac Targowy (Hala Targowa, E-4). For typical Cracovian
souvenirs head to the Cloth Hall in the centre of the main
square (C-3): find all manner of glasswork, lace, amber,
wood carvings, local sweets and stuffed dragons. For the
generic western experience you can hit one of the shopping
malls we list, however throughout this section we’ve made a
concentrated effort to focus not on recognised, international
brands and franchises, but unique, home-grown businesses;
so we encourage you to put your money where their mouth is.
As this is PL, remember most shops close early on Saturday
and take Sunday off altogether.
24-hour Shops
Delikatesy Oczko C-3, ul. Sienna 9. Located on Mały
Rynek, this is one of the most centrally located late-night
shops in the city, and they sell booze too.
Kefirek C-4, ul. Grodzka 46, tel. (+48) 12 433 75 20,
www.kefirek.pl. Kefirek is your saviour when you want to
pack a picnic for the river, buy smokes or restock the beer
fridge at 2:00 in the morning, or pick up essential groceries
on the way home. Not a large store, but it includes all the
essentials, including a deli, produce and booze. And you can
get away with stuff you’d get the stink-eye for, or worse, at
any other shop in PL, like paying in Euros or buying chewing
gum with your card. Also at ul. Szpitalna 38 (D-2) and ul. Karmelicka
14 (B-2) and ul. Stradomska 18/ul. Dietla 44 (D-6).
Alcohol & Tobacco
Nothing says, ‘I’ve been to Poland’ like a suitcase of vodka
(and maybe a dodgy moustache). The Poles have been
distilling and draining vodka since the early Middle Ages,
and Poland can make a legitimate claim as the spirit’s
primordial homeland. As such, you should put it at the top
of your souvenir list, even if it’s not to your taste. You can’t
walk a block in this city without passing a church and an
alcohol shop, so you’ve you r choice of temples. Belvedere
and Chopin are the elite brands you’ll find in fancy gift sets,
but don’t miss Żubrówka (bison grass vodka), Krupnik
(herbal honey vodka), Żołądkowa Gorzka (bitter stomach
vodka) and Goldwasser with its signature gold flakes. That’s
quite a shopping list.
Szambelan C-3, ul. Gołębia 2 (entrance from ul.
Bracka 9), tel. (+48) 12 628 70 93, www.szambelan.
pl. Huge selection of special vodkas, meads and Polish
absinths decanted from enormous erlenmeyer flasks. The
exotic bottles make for ideal last minute gifts which they can
ship for you, or go ghetto fab by refilling a plastic bottle and
stuffing it in your luggage (or strolling the Planty). Sample first,
sample often. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 20:30,
Sun 12:00 - 18:00.
Vinoteka 13 C-3, Rynek Główny 13 (Pasaż 13), tel.
(+48) 12 617 02 50, www.lhr.com.pl. An elite and elaborate
selection of wines from all over Italy. Attached is Bar
13, where you can sample a vast majority of them. QOpen
11:00 - 21:00, Sun 11:00 - 17:00.
Amber & Jewellery
Herbal vodka isn’t the only golden nectar popular in Poland.
Poland is renowned for its amber and the craftsmen who
handsomely shape the fossilised resin into unique and
Kraków In Your Pocket krakow.inyourpocket.com
coveted pieces of jewellery. Come back from PL without
bringing baby some Baltic Gold and you’ve booked yourself
a stint in the doghouse. The best place to begin is the Cloth
Hall in the center of the market square, where prices are
surprisingly competitive, or visit any of the many galleries
around the Old Town.
Boruni Amber Inspirations C-5, ul. Grodzka 60, tel.
(+48) 12 423 10 81, www.boruni.pl. Also inside the Cloth
Hall (C-3, stand numbers 23, 29, 36) and in Crown Piast Hotel
(ul. Radzikowskiego 109). QOpen 09:00 - 20:00.
World of Amber C-4, ul. Grodzka 38, tel. (+48) 12 430 21
14, www.worldofamber.pl. Also at ul. Floriańska 13 and 22
(C-3), ul. Powiśle 7 (A-5, Sheraton Kraków), and ul. Kamieńskiego
11 (Bonarka City Center). QOpen 09:00 - 20:00.
Art & Antiques
Art abounds in Kraków, and in addition to the galleries
proliferating the Old Town, local artists shop their work to
tourists right on the market square, and along ul. Pijarska
on either side of the Floriańska Gate (C/D-2). Remember, if
you are taking original art that is more than 50 years old and
of a potentially high value, you’ll need the proper paperwork
and permissions (see Customs, under Basics). Most proper
dealers can provide this straight-away, but you may want to
check before opening your wallet. Below we list the most
interesting commercial art galleries in town; see the Culture
section for more cultural art gallery listings.
There is no shortage of possibilities for purchasing antiques
in Kraków. Serious shoppers will find that the best items
end up in the antique stores (‘Antyki,’ ‘Antykwariat’) that
abound all over Kazimierz and the Old Town with one of the
best places to prowl for lost treasure being ulica Józefa
(D/E-6) in Kazimierz. Knowledgeable dealers offer prices
comparable to those in the rest of Europe, however there
are still bargains aplenty in the city’s markets if your interest
is more in finding an odd souvenir while having a unique
cultural experience than finding an undervalued 19th century
artefact. Plac Nowy (D-6) is home to daily junk-peddlers, but
the real bounty is revealed during Plac Targowy’s Sunday
morning flea market (E-4) where every piece of trash has a
price and haggling is compulsory.
Andrzej Mleczko Gallery C-2, ul. Św. Jana 14, tel. (+48)
12 421 71 04, www.sklep.mleczko.pl. These anti-establishment,
often blasphemous, damn funny cartoons by Poland’s
favourite cartoonist Andrzej Mleczko are bound to remind you
of someone you know (if you speak Polish, that is). Ideal for
Polish friends and family, here you can buy prints, mugs, shirts,
underwear, mouse pads and more. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00.
Antyki Home Decor B-3, Rynek Główny 29/1st floor,
tel. (+48) 12 423 22 46. Vintage concept store specialising
in vintage design, fine art, antiques, souvenirs, coins and old
postcards. Q Open 10:00-19:00, Sat 10:00-16:00, Sun by
prior arrangement only.
Galeria Plakatu (Poster Gallery) C-3, ul. Stolarska
8-10, tel. (+48) 12 421 26 40, www.cracowpostergallery.com.
Poland has a proud tradition of graphic poster art
for film and theatre. Here you can browse binders of designs
for different plays, various propaganda and alternative film
posters you never knew existed for your favourite flicks.
Many are in stock and many more available to order. They
make fantastic gifts and keepsakes, or go cheap by buying
a stack of unusual postcards. Q Open 11:00 - 17:00, Sat
11:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. From March open 11:00 - 18:00,
Sat 11:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun
krakow.inyourpocket.com
SHOPPING
’Kolejka’ Board Game
If you’ve spent any time in Poland, you know that queuing
is a bit of an art in this country, if not a national pastime.
Well now, thanks to the Institute of National Remembrance
(Instytut Pamięci Narodowej), it’s also the subject of a
marvelous board game. Combining humour, history and
nostalgia with slick design and clever, exciting game play,
Kolejka (that’s ‘Queue’ in British, and ‘Line’ in American)
has become one of the most popular board games in
Poland, and it’s no surprise that it was named ‘2012 Game
of the Year’ by industry experts - the first time a Polishdesigned
game has ever earned that honour.
For 2-5 players, the object of the game is rather simple:
each player has a family of 5 members and a basic shopping
list, all the items on which must be acquired in order
to complete a rather ordinary task such as ‘getting the
kids ready for camp’ or ‘preparing for first communion’;
the first player to complete their list wins the game.
However, this game takes place in the historical context
of 1982 Poland and, due to shortages, basic goods are
limited and difficult to acquire. Game play entails players
placing their family members in queues outside various
shops and then using a combination of strategy and
luck to slyly maneuver their pawns to the front of the line
where they stand the best chance of coming home with
an item on their list when the shops open for business.
Of course, players don’t necessarily know which shops
will be receiving a delivery that day, nor the quantity or
specific products – all of which are actual brand items
produced during the communist era. Play is made
more lively by the absolutely absurd but sadly realistic
strategies employed to manipulate the queue, including
borrowing someone else’s baby to get to the front of the
queue or losing your position in line for badmouthing the
authorities. The black market is another aspect of play
where needed items may be available for barter.
First designed and released in 2011 as an educational
tool to teach young people about the difficulties
of everyday life and the economic consequences of the
communist system in Poland, Kolejka soon proved so
surprisingly popular, particularly with foreigners, that
IPN was prompted to manufacture a second multilingual
edition to meet demand. The new edition features game
cards and instruction booklets – including period photos,
historical background and critical essays – in English,
German, Spanish, Russian, Polish and Japanese. In
addition to being a “history lesson in a box,” Kolejka is
also wildly fun to play and makes a uniquely Polish gift or
souvenir. It retails for 60-80zł and is available from most
online board game retailers. An English ‘print-and-play’
version is also available through the IPN website (ipn.gov.
pl). Standing in line was never this much fun.
February - March 2013
123

124 SHOPPING SHOPPING 125
Krakowski Antykwariat Naukowy C-2, ul.
Sławkowska 6, tel. (+48) 12 421 21 43, www.antkrak.
krakow.pl. The quintessential Cracovian antique bookshop
(‘antykwariat’), this outfit buys and sells old prints, maps,
graphic art, manuscripts, postcards, books, letters and more.
Ring the bell and head upstairs. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat
10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.
Salon Antyków Pasja B-3, ul. Jagiellońska 9, tel.
(+48) 12 429 10 96, www.antykwariat-pasja.pl. One
of the best in town, specialising in furniture, porcelain, paintings,
jewellery. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00.
Closed Sun.
Books, Music & Film
American Bookstore E-1, ul. Pawia 5 (Galeria
Krakowska), tel. (+48) 12 628 75 73, www.americanbookstore.pl.
Your best bet outside cyberspace
for getting the latest Harry Potter book, Grisham thriller
or Stephen King creeper in its original language, this
small store in the Galeria is generally preoccupied
with the bestsellers list. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00, Sun
10:00 - 21:00.
Austeria E-6, ul. Józefa 38 (High Synagogue), tel.
(+48) 12 430 68 89, www.austeria.pl. Situated in
the historical High Synagogue, Austeria is the largest
Jewish bookstore in Kraków, offering literature, history,
guide books and more in a number of languages,
plus music CDs and tourist information. Upstairs is
a gallery space showing revolving historical exhibits
related to Judaica in Kraków. Admission to the exhibit,
9/6zł. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Fri 10:00 - 19:00, Sat
10:00 - 19.00.
Empik Megastore C-3, Rynek Główny 5, tel. (+48)
22 451 04 68, www.empik.com. Right on the market
square, Empik is a veritable one-stop shop for books,
music, films, video games and more. A sizeable collection
of English-language periodicals lives on the ground floor,
though the price mark-ups can be shocking; read them in
the cafe upstairs. On the upper floors you’ll find guide books,
maps and an English language fiction section, as well as
video game consoles for rainy days. The basement houses
a generally shabby, but also totally unpredictable selection
of overpriced CDs and here you can also buy tickets to
major concerts and festivals in PL. Also at ul. Podgórska
34 (J-3, Galeria Kazimierz), ul. Kamieńskiego 11 (Bonarka
City Centre) and ul. Pawia 5 (D-1, Galeria Krakowska).
QOpen 09:00 - 22:00.
House Of Albums A-4, ul. Zwierzyniecka 17, tel.
(+48) 12 429 13 63, www.houseofalbums.pl. Exclusively
selling handsome (though expensive) coffeetable
books, many of which are in English, this is the best place
to buy photography books which will prove to everyone
back home how beautiful PL is. Also a great place to kill
time on a rainy day as everyone seems to use it more
like a library than a bookshop. Who knew they even had
coffeetables in PL? QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 -
15:00. Closed Sun.
Księgarnia Hetmańska C-3, Rynek Główny 17, tel.
(+48) 12 430 24 53. Pasaż Hetmańska is home to several
shops, including a Polish-language bookstore, a record store
which also sells posters, patches, t-shirts and other music
paraphrenalia, as well of plenty of other souvenir vendors.
To your right as you enter is a bookshop selling books in
English (and a small selection in German), as well as maps,
posters and an unnecessary amount of puzzles. Though
hardly expansive, the book selection is the best on the
market square - and certainly better than you’ll find in EM-
PiK, particularly with regards to Polish and Jewish literature.
Guidebooks also available and the prices are fair. QOpen
09:00 - 21:00, Sun 11:00 - 21:00.
Massolit Books & Café A-4, ul. Felicjanek 4, tel.
(+48) 12 432 41 50, www.massolit.com. The best
English-language bookstore in Central Europe, owing in
large part to its unique cafe atmosphere. With books on
all subjects and specialising in Polish, East European and
Jewish literature in English, here you’ll also find recent
English language periodicals (store copies) to peruse over
coffee and a slice of pie, or even a glass of wine. Stocked
with remaindered books from the States, the selection is
surprisingly good, and the prices are the best you’ll find
anywhere. This legendary establishment has been longrunning
but constantly needs and deserves support. Still
if you’re on a budget you can trade the novel you finished
on the train for credit towards a new one. QOpen 10:00 -
20:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 21:00.
Fashion & Accessories
International designer clothing and fashion brands can be
found in Kraków’s shopping malls. High quality Polish brands
include Reserved, Vistula and Tatuum. All over Kraków
you’ll find secondhand clothing stores marked ‘Tania Odzież’
(Cheap Clothes). These stores range in quality, from items
sorted in dishevelled bins to others on actual hangers; many
are priced by weight and all have that distinctive embalmed
babcia smell. A weekly clothing market also occurs Sundays
on Plac Nowy (D-6).
Chorąży Czapki i Kapelusze D-7, ul. Krakowska
35a, tel. (+48) 608 28 26 31, www.czapkichorazy.
prv.pl. Maybe you aren’t aware, but Polish old man hats
are surprisingly stylish and this family shop is where to get
one. Affectionately known as ‘the Hat Guy,’ give Józef the
hatmaker a head and he’ll hand you a handsome, perfectly
fitting hat. Bring in your own fabric and he’ll even custom
make one for you. With Józef’s name and his shop’s Cracovian
address sewn into each one, these hats make a great gift
and keepsake; evidence of a world that is rapidly vanishing.
And they’re a bargain. Józef doesn’t speak English, but there
shouldn’t be much mystery between the two of you; it’s not
like you’re trying to draft legislation - it’s a hat, he’s a hat
guy. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.
IDEA FIX Concept Store E-7, ul. Bocheńska 7, tel.
(+48) 12 422 12 46, www.ideafix.pl. The ‘idea’ here is
promoting contemporary, young, independent Polish artists
and designers - and for once we’re not talking about painted
angels or folk pottery. This shop is straight Soho (NYC) with
an alternative urban chic style and attitude that will hopefully
encourage Kraków’s hundreds of DJs to pick up their
duds somewhere other than H&M. Championing sustainable
consumption, drop in this expansive and sexy 230m2
concept store just off Plac Wolnica to check out clothing and
accessories by independent local designers, Polish films and
music, Polish fibre arts, interior design and more. QOpen
11:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 18:00.
Lniane Marzenie (Linen Dream) C-5, ul. Grodzka
63, tel. (+48) 790 46 61 03, www.lnianemarzenie.pl.
Unique and high quality women’s clothing (shawls, tunics,
coats) made from organic materials like linen, wool and silk
by Polish artists. Each item is one of a kind. QOpen 11:00
- 18:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 15:00.
Wittchen D-1, ul. Pawia 5 (Galeria Krakowska),
tel. (+48) 518 02 27 66, www.wittchen.com. One of
Poland’s top luxury brands, Wittchen creates high-quality
hand-made leather goods, including shoes, jackets, hand
bags, gloves, wallets, luggage and more. Each comes with
a hologramed ‘Certificate of Authenticity’ proving it’s the
real deal. Carried at many shops around Kraków, visit one
of the shopping malls to see their company showroom.
Also at ul. Podgórska 34 (J-3, Galeria Kazimierz) and ul.
Kamieńskiego 11 (Bonarka City Center). QOpen 09:00 -
22:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00.
Food & Sweets
Ciasteczka z Krakowa C-3, ul. Św. Tomasza
21, tel. (+48) 12 423 22 27, www.ciasteczkazkrakowa.pl.
Local sweets shop superpower selling
cookies, cakes, chocolates, wafers, pralines, truffles
and fudge with a lovely cafe for coffee or tea. Also on
ul. Stradomska 19 (C-6). QOpen 09:00 - 19:00, Sun
10:00 - 19:00.
Cracow Chocolate Factory B-3, ul. Szewska 7,
tel. (+48) 502 09 07 65, www.chocolate.krakow.
pl. Wall-length street-front windows with a view into
the Wonka-esque workshop lure tourists inside this
enormous 2-floor old-school chocolatier that includes
an immaculate shop/showroom and upstairs cafe. With
delicious handmade treats in every direction - truffles,
pralines, chocolate bars, postcards, figurines and more
- Cracow Chocolate Factory perfectly captures that ‘kid
in a candyshop’ excitement, and is great for dodging
the rain, spoiling the sweet tooth of a date or picking up
souvenirs. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00.
Delikatesy 13 C-3, Rynek Główny 13 (Pasaż 13),
tel. (+48) 12 617 02 27, www.lhr.com.pl. Located in
the basement of Kraków’s nicest most central shopping
mall, this Italian delicatessen offers a wide range of
high-quality edible goods including over 100 varieties
of Italian cheese and meats, parma ham, truffles, cooking
oils and balsamic vinagrettes, as well as delicious
locally-made preservative free honeys and jams. Pies,
pastries and cakes are also made daily. With the sheer
volume of outstanding goods, Delikatessy 13 is probably
one of the most dangerous places you can take
your wallet when you’re hungry. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00,
Sun 09:00 - 17:00.
Karmello C-4, Pl. Wszystkich Świętych 11, tel.
(+48) 12 422 03 72, www.karmello.pl. The chocolate
shop to end all chocolate shops, Karmello is Kraków’s
most exquisite spot for indulging the sweet tooth. Several
stunning display cases practically sparkle with over 50
varieties of exclusively-crafted chocolates, plus truffles,
chocolate bars, candied chocolate-dipped fruit and other
specialties. Perfect for picking up a nice gift in a pinch,
or get them personalised in advance. So amazing it must
be...Italian? Belgian? Swiss? Nope, Karmello actually hails
from Bielsko-Biała - about 90mins southwest of Kraków
in Silesia. Also at ul. Floriańska 38 (C-2). QOpen 06:00 -
23:00, Mon 06:00 - 22:00.
Kopernik C-4, ul. Grodzka 14, tel. (+48) 12 431 13
06, www.kopernik.com.pl. A traditional dating back to
the 15th century, Toruń gingerbread is world-renowned
and you can purchase their range of novelty sweets in
Kraków at this enticing shop. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat,
Sun 10:00 - 18:00.
Kraków In Your Pocket krakow.inyourpocket.com
krakow.inyourpocket.com
February - March 2013

126 SHOPPING SHOPPING 127
Markets
Kraków’s open-air markets are the best places to get
cheap local produce and the only places in the centre
where you can buy vegetables that aren’t white. Add to
that meats, cheeses, spices, baked goods, doorknobs,
dog leashes, pagers, potholders and literally anything
else you can think of and you’ve got yourself a nifty
cultural experience as well. In addition to the legendary
Cloth Hall on the market square (C-3, open 10:00-
19:00), practice your “Proszę” and point skills at the
unique shopping environments listed below.
Keep in mind that while haggling might work at Plac
Targowy’s Sunday flea market, it’s uselessly rude at any
of the daily market stalls. Expecting vendors to break a
100 złoty note will also be met with utter disdain.
Plac Nowy D-6, tel. (+48) 12 422 25 59, www.
placnowy.pl. This historic square was a Jewish
market in the pre-war days, with its rotunda serving
as a kosher slaughterhouse. Today you’ll still find
butcher shops inside, while fast food windows line
the exterior. In the open trading stalls surrounding
the roundhouse produce and junk are sold daily. It’s
a different, often unpredictable scene on the square
each morning, but Saturdays are generally reserved
for more junk/antiques and Sundays for clothing, while
Tuesday and Friday mornings it’s a full-on rabbit swap
and pigeon fair - one of the most bizarre spectacles
you can possibly witness if you arrive early enough
(ends about 8:00). Markets begin around 5:30 in the
morning and generally end by early to mid-afternoon
depending. In the evenings, Plac Nowy turns into one
of the best drinking destinations in town, lined with
atmospheric bars.
Plac Targowy Unitarg
E-4, ul. Grzegórzecka,
tel. (+48) 12 429 61 55,
www.unitarg.krakow.
pl. The city’s best outdoor
market, Hala Targowa is
open every day for everything
from fruit, flowers
and produce to pirated DVDs, dodgy underwear and
cheap wristwatches. Morning is the best time to come
and Sunday is undoubtedly the best day of the week to
hit the stalls, when it becomes a full-blown sprawling
flea market of Old World antiques, Catholic icons, village
detritus, vinyl records, war memorabilia, mismatched
shoes, stolen bikes and pretty much anything you can
dream of at bargain prices. Different vendors set their
own hours, but most are there at dawn and packing up
between 14:00 and 15:00. At night on Plac Targowy you’ll
find a 24 hour alcky shop and the best grilled kielbasa in
town, sold from a van.
Stary Kleparz C/D-1, Rynek Kleparski 20, tel.
(+48) 12 634 15 32, www.starykleparz.com. A
tradition of over 800 years, this large, covered, open-air
marketplace just north of the Barbakan offers bargain
prices and the best selection in the city for local produce,
fruit, meat and cheeses, in addition to spices, socks,
sweaters and whatever oddball commodities are the
order of the day during your visit. They say they are
open until 17:00, but most stalls will have closed up
much earlier. QOpen 06:00 - 17:00, Sun 09:00 - 16:00.
Krakowski Kredens C-3, ul. Grodzka 7, tel. (+48)
696 49 00 12, www.krakowskikredens.pl. An oldfashioned
dry goods store of expensive, yet exquisite,
Galician delicacies - including jams, honeys, liquors, cured
meats, candies and pickled things. A warm roll with their
sliced pork and mustard from the streetside window is
a gourmet street food bargain at only 5-9zł (depending
on weight), while we can also recommend the black pudding
(kaszanka) and the pork hock (golonka). Also at ul.
Kamińskiego 11 (Bonarka City Center) ul. Pawia 5 (D-1,
Galeria Krakowska) and the airport. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00,
Sat 11:00 - 19:00, Sun 11:00 - 18:00.
Produkty Benedyktyńskie (Benedictine Products)
D-6, ul. Krakowska 29, tel. (+48) 12 422 02 16,
www.benedicite.pl. This shop, set up by the Benedictine
monks of Tyniec Abbey, sells such an astounding variety of
products - cheese, jam, wine, beer, honey, tea, herbs, syrups,
meats - it raises two eyebrows over how they find the time.
All the products are completely natural, without pigment,
and unilaterally excellent and make excellent gifts and can
even be purchased through their multilingual website. Also
at Tyniec Abbey. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00.
Closed Sun.
Słodki Wierzynek C-3, Rynek Główny 15, tel. (+48)
12 424 96 00, www.wierzynek.pl. Great for gifts, in this
classic cafe and sweets shop you’ll find a plethora of pricey,
but gourmet, chocolates, caramels, bon-bons, cakes and
biscuits alongside traditional Polish liquors and meads.
Some snazzy gift boxes are available for the aestheticallyobsessed;
try the edible box made of chocolate if you’re
determined to go kitsch shopping on the Rynek. QOpen
09:00 - 23:00.
Gifts & Souvenirs
It’s only natural to want to bring something back home from
your time in Poland, as well as prove to those who have no
idea where the country is that it does indeed exist. Also, if
you plan on visiting or staying with a Polish family while here
it’s common courtesy to arrive with a gift. While there are
chintzy souvenir shops all over the Old Town, the Mecca of
them all is the centuries old Cloth Hall (C-3, open 10:00-
19:00) in the middle of the market square. Essentially a huge
souvenir market, in the packed stalls you’ll find all sorts of
Polish keepsakes including amber jewellery, carved wood,
lace and cloth handicrafts and more. For a tourist market
the quality is surprisingly high and the prices generally fair,
so there’s no shame in shopping there. Below we’ve listed
more unique local or national Polish businesses where you
can find attractive gifts and feel good about how you are
spending your money at the same time.
Bajo C-5, ul. Grodzka 60, tel. (+48) 12 429 14 42,
www.bajo.eu. Founded by sculptor, architect, and Jagiellonian
University professor Wojciech Bajor, this company
aims to create natural toys for natural play, without any of the
flashing lights or button-pushing that kids of the computer
age are already overly inundated with these days. Ranging
from colourful vehicles and animals to educational blocks, all
of Bajo’s toys are artistically designed entirely out of wood.
Ideal for infants and young children and entirely Cracovian.
QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 16:00.
Cloth Hall (Sukiennice) C-3, Rynek Główny 1/3.
Your best bet for Krakow gifts with many stalls selling lace,
cloth, carvings and all sorts of Polish souvenirs at prices
that are more reasonable than you’d anticipate. QOpen
10:00 - 18:00.
Dekor Art C-2, ul. Sławkowska 11, tel. (+48) 12 284
15 67. The tag team of Dekor Art and Mila across the street
make ul. Sławkowska Kraków’s official Bolesławiec shopping
corridor. If you’re not familiar with this well-loved folk ceramic
brand, head here straightaway to get introduced. Crammed
full of colourful dishware with simple, hand-painted and
highly-recognisable folk motifs, this bargain shop is sure to
help you make someone on your list happy. QOpen 10:00 -
18:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00, Sun 11:00 - 16:00.
Galeria Bukowski C-3, ul. Sienna 1, tel. (+48) 12
433 88 55, www.galeriabukowski.pl. A Polish-owned
worldwide teddy bear kingdom; Polish Paddington needs
a home. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Mon, Sun 10:00 - 18:00.
Kacper Ryx C-3, Pl. Mariacki 3, tel. +48 12 426 45 49,
www.kacperryx.pl. One of Kraków’s most interesting gift
stores, this small “historical shop” skips the kitsch, instead
offering a wide variety of high-quality, hand-made, historybased
craft work. Enter via the same door as the Hipolit House
museum, and step into what a gift shop may have looked like
centuries ago, if there were such a thing: shelves and tables
stocked with swords, armour and weaponry; leather flasks,
pouches and bags; historical wood-prints and archaeological
replicas; beer steins, goblets and pottery; cowls, dresses and
other medieval apparel. Prices are fair and items are nicer
than much of what you’ll find in the Cloth Hall. Recommended.
QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sun 12:00 - 17:00.
Krakuska - Sztuka Ludowa B-3, ul. Szewska 9,
tel. (+48) 12 430 21 04. This fantastic folk shop is only
a minute from the market square and features a more diverse
range of decently-priced quality souvenirs than you’ll
find almost anywhere else: weavings, tapestries, rugs and
embroidery, Bolesławiec ceramic, old fashioned toys and
trinkets, paper cutouts, postcards, painted glass, leather
products, chess sets, folk costumes and more. QOpen
10:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 16:00.
Rock Shop C-3, Pl. Mariacki 9, tel. (+48) 12 429
11 55, www.hardrock.com/krakow. You know a city
has made it when it gets a Hard Rock Cafe and is there
anything which says ‘I’ve been there’ more than a Hard
Rock Cafe t-shirt? Ahem. Pick up the ‘Kraków’ one to add
to your collection at the shop inside the HRC opposite St
Mary’s Church. Classic white costs 99zł, black costs 105zł.
QOpen 10:00 - 24:00.
Shopping Malls
FACTORY Outlet ul. Rożańskiego 32, Modlniczka,
tel. (+48) 12 297 35 00, www.factory.pl. 15 minutes
from the city centre, this outlet mall features 120 foreign and
domestic brands including Levi’s, Reserved, Calzedonia, Gino
Rossi, Benetton, Wittchen, Solar, Simple and many more. You
can get there by catching a free bus from Grunwaldzki Bridge
(B-7) or Rondo Matecznego (I-5). QOpen 10:00 - 21:00, Sun
10:00 - 20:00.
Galeria Kazimierz J-3, ul. Podgórska 34, tel. (+48)
12 433 01 01, www.galeriakazimierz.pl. Opened in
2005, the success of Galeria Kazimierz marked another
step in Kraków’s economic renaissance and rated as the
area’s most prestigious mall before the over-blown opening
of Bonarka. Still the most likeable shopping centre in town,
GK boasts over 130 retail units including media giants EMPiK
and Euro RTV AGD, fashion outfitters H&M, Zara, Simple,
Mango, Bershka, Stradivarius and KappAhl, cosmetic specialists
Sephora, and revered jewellers W. Kruk, Pandora and
Swarovski. The Alma supermarket offers Kraków’s premier
selection of food and beverages, while those preferring a
sit down meal can choose from the American-themed Jeff’s
or Pizza Hut. For recreational needs Galeria Kazimierz also
touts a ten screen Cinema City complex with a fitness club
underneath it. Situated next to the Kazimierz district the mall
is easily accessed on foot; those arriving by car have 1,600
free parking spaces to pick from. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00,
Sun 10:00 - 20:00.
Galeria Krakowska D-1, ul. Pawia 5, tel. (+48) 12
428 99 07, www.galeria-krakowska.pl. Covering 60,000
square metres over three floors, if you arrived in the centre
by train it’s unlikely you missed this place: a huge glass and
steel shopping Mecca opposite the old station building, which
as malls go makes it one of the most centrally located in
Europe. GK has helped contribute to the regeneration of an
area that once was home to dodgy dwellings and dealings,
and now has a new square and train platform access. Stores
housed here include H&M, Peek & Cloppenburg, electronics
giant Saturn, an enormous Carrefour supermarket and over
260 other retail units, 1400 car parking spaces, an entertainment
centre and restaurants. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00,
Sun 10:00 - 21:00.
Pasaż 13 C-3, Rynek Główny 13, tel. (+48) 12 617 02
27, www.lhr.com.pl. This gorgeous old Rynek townhouse
was converted into a snazzy shopping area in 2005 to become
the first branch of the trademark Likus Concept Stores.
Not your typical shopping mall, Pasaż 13 has 17 designer
shops including Dolce&Gabbana, Vero Moda and Miss Sixty.
You’ll also find a fine Italian delikatessen and bar (U Louisa)
in the cellar. QOpen 11:00 - 21:00, Sun 11:00 - 17:00. While
all other shops in Pasaż 13 open at 11:00, Delikatesy 13
and Bar 13 are open from 09:00.
Flower Power
Lads, listen up. In
concert with the
societal consensus
that Polish women
are beautiful, the
country’s daughters
have been dutifully
trained to wield their
sex in the form of
elaborate and flirtatious
gender games,
and you will be expected, if not helpless, to play along.
One of the most important Polish courting rituals involves
the presentation of flowers to your muse and her mother
at almost every opportunity. The rules of this game are
arbitrarily complex and antiquated but transpire to the
effect of what follows: Always give an odd number of
flowers (or stems) unless the occasion is a solemn one,
and make sure to remove the paper before you arrive.
Red is for love; pink is for potential mothers-in-law and
also a good neutral fall-back colour when you’re unsure
of protocol; yellow is for envy and should probably be
avoided. You can’t go wrong with roses, chrysanthemums
are for the dead and carnations are unpopular due to
lingering communist connotations. The rest is on you;
good luck and welcome to the 18th century.
In Kraków you’ll find swanky ‘floral studios’ on practically
every block. Cut flowers can also be bought on the main
market square and at all of the open-air locations listed
in Shopping under ‘Markets’.
Kraków In Your Pocket krakow.inyourpocket.com
krakow.inyourpocket.com
February - March 2013

128 DIRECTORY
I
t took five seconds to transform Poland
from a country bustling with
confidence into one wracked with
grief on a scale not seen since the Second
World War.
At some point on a nondescript Saturday
morning on April 10, the aircraft carrying
the president, his wife and 94 others
clipped a tree with its left wing as it
approached Smolensk airport in western
Russia. Five seconds later, now devoid of
one wing, it barrel rolled anti-clockwise,
before slamming roof first into the ground.
As news of the accident broke in Poland,
and one by one television channels
interrupted their regular services, news
readers struggled to contain their emotions
as they realised the devastating blow the
Smolensk disaster had dealt the country.
Along with President Kaczynski, and
Maria his wife, the casualty list read like a
who’s who of the Polish elite.
The head of the national bank, the
chief of the armed forces, the heads of the
navy and air force, two ministers, leading
politicians and dozens of others. Many
household names in Poland; now all dead.
The irony that the Tupolev Tu-154
crashed at it was carrying a delegation
to mark the 70th-anniversary of the
Katyn massacre, when Stalin’s henchman
slaughtered Poland’s best, was not lost.
The parents of the pilot in charge of flying
the presidential plane have begged the world
not to blame their son for the crash.
Captain Arkadiusz Protasiuka was the
man responsible for landing the Polish
Air Force Tu-154M safely in Russia on
Saturday 10th April, but, for reason still
unknown, he was unable to successfully
carry out his task.
“The Soviets killed Polish elites in Katyn
70 years ago. Today, the Polish elite died
there while getting ready to pay homage to
the Poles killed there,” said Lech Walesa.
Aleksander Kwasniewski, another
former president, described Katyn as a
“cursed place, and of horrible symbolism”.
As Poles absorbed what Donald Tusk
called the “most tragic event in Poland’s
post-war history” thousands began to
make their way to the presidential palace
in central Warsaw, which was to become
the focal point of national mourning.
At noon on Sunday across the nation two
minutes silence was observed in memory
of the people that died in the air crash in
Smolensk. The silence was then pierced by
the claxons and sirens of local authority
warning systems and police vehicles. To
this mournful orchestra of wails, the Polish
nation stood to attention and reflected
on their loss in the forests near Katyn.
Warsaw’s Presidential Palace has become the focal point of the nation’s grief
A small patch of flowers and candles
left by mourners expanded and grew,
carpeting the pavement and the road in
a tribute to those who had died. Political
differences vanquished by grief, thousands
upon thousands of people made their way
to the palace to pay their respects in quiet
dignity.
The outpouring of sympathy for the
victims spoke volumes for the shock
and sadness that had touched Poles; it
also spoke volumes for the decency of
Poland.
The tragic death of the head of the
National Bank of Poland Slawomir
Skrzypek in Saturday’s plane crash leaves
questions open about who will replace
him, and how his loss will affect monetary
policy and other issues.
The succession issue is a major one, since
both the parliament and the president
must make the choice jointly.
© www.prezydent.pl
24hr Pharmacies
Apteka Dbam o Zdrowie I-5, ul. Kalwaryjska 94, tel.
(+48) 12 656 18 50, www.doz.pl.
Apteka Galla H-1, ul. Galla 26, tel. (+48) 12 636
73 65.
Apteka Pod Opatrznością B-2, ul. Karmelicka 23,
tel. (+48) 12 631 19 80.
Business Associations
American Chamber of Commerce in Kraków ul.
Jodłowa 13 (Zwierzyniec), tel. (+48) 660 72 77 46,
www.amcham.com.pl.
British Polish Chamber of Commerce B-3, ul. Św.
Anny 9, tel. (+48) 12 421 70 30, www.bpcc.org.pl.
Consulates & Embassies
Austria H-2, ul. Krupnicza 42, tel. (+48) 12 424 99
30, www.aussenministerium.at/krakaugk. Consular
Department, ul. Cybulskiego 9 (A-9), tel. (+48) 12 424 99 40.
Denmark B-3, ul. Św. Anny 5, tel. (+48) 12 421 73 80,
www.nordichouse.pl.
Finland B-3, ul. Św. Anny 5, tel. (+48) 12 421 73 80,
www.nordichouse.pl.
Germany C-3, ul. Stolarska 7, tel. (+48) 12 424 30 00,
www.krakau.diplo.de.
Iceland B-3, ul. Św. Anny 5, tel. (+48) 12 421 73 80,
www.nordichouse.pl.
Instytut Francuski C-4, ul. Stolarska 15, tel. (+48)
12 424 53 50, institutfrancais.pl.
Japan I-2, ul. Grabowskiego 5/3, tel. (+48) 12 633 43
59, www.pl.emb-japan.go.jp.
Mexico ul. Wiedeńska 72 (Bronowice), tel. (+48) 12
638 05 58.
Norway H-1, ul. Mazowiecka 25, tel. (+48) 12 633 03
76, www.amb-norwegia.pl.
Russia B-1, ul. Biskupia 7, tel. (+48) 12 422 26 47,
www.rusemb.pl.
Slovakia D-3, ul. Św. Tomasza 34, tel. (+48) 12 425
49 70, www.cgcracow.mfa.sk.
Sweden B-3, ul. Św. Anny 5, tel. (+48) 12 421 73 80,
www.nordichouse.pl.
UK ul. Kawalerii 12, Warsaw, tel. (+48) 22 311 00 00,
www.ukinpoland.fco.gov.uk.
Ukraine K-2, Al. Beliny-Prażmowskiego 4, tel. (+48)
12 429 60 66, www.plk.internetdsl.pl.
USA C-3, ul. Stolarska 9, tel. (+48) 12 424 51 00,
krakow.usconsulate.gov.
Dentists
Denta-Med J-4, ul. Na Zjeździe 13, tel. (+48) 12
259 80 00, www.denta-med.com.pl. Open 24hrs for
emergencies.
Emergency Room
5 Wojskowy Szpital Kliniczny I-1, ul. Wrocławska
1-3, tel. (+48) 12 630 81 40, www.5wszk.com.pl.
Szpital Uniwersytecki J-2, ul. Kopernika 21, tel.
(+48) 12 424 82 77, www.su.krakow.pl.
Genealogy
Registry Office (Urząd Stanu Cywilnego) I-1,
ul. Lubelska 27, tel. (+48) 12 616 55 19, www.bip.
krakow.pl.
Kraków In Your Pocket krakow.inyourpocket.com
Language Schools
Accent School of Polish J-4, ul. Kącik 10, tel.
(+48) 12 656 75 68, www.polishforforeigners.com.
Offering group or individual Polish language classes for
foreigners.
Jagiellonian University School of Polish Language
and Culture B-2, ul. Garbarska 7a, tel. (+48)
12 421 36 92, www.plschool.uj.edu.pl. Intensive or
non-intensive, individual or group Polish language classes
available for all levels through one of the oldest universities
in Europe.
Polish Language Center H-2, ul. Michałowskiego
2/3, tel. (+48) 12 633 58 71, www.varia-course.com.
Offering Polish language and culture courses, conducted
exclusively in Polish in small groups.
Profi-Lingua B-3, ul. Podwale 7, tel. (+48) 12 426
16 01, www.profi-lingua.pl. This nationwide network of
schools offers language courses in English, German, Spanish,
French, Italian, Russian and Polish.
Private Clinics
Ars Medica D-1, ul. Warszawska 17, tel. (+48) 12 423
38 34, www.ars-medica.pl.
Lux-Med I-5, ul. Wadowicka 6, tel. (+48) 22 33 22
888, www.luxmed.pl.
Medicina A-6, ul. Barska 12, tel. (+48) 12 266 96 65,
www.medicina.pl.
Medicover K-3, ul. Podgórska 36, tel. (+48) 500 900
500, www.medicover.pl. Also ul. Bora Komorowskiego 25B
(Prądnik Czerwony), ul. Bobrzyńskiego 37 (Dębniki).
Real Estate
Hamilton May A-3, ul. Cybulskiego 2, tel. (+48) 12
426 51 26, www.hamiltonmay.pl.
Komercel A-1, ul. Karmelicka 48/3a, tel. (+48) 501
48 94 93, www.komercel.pl.
Mamdom, www.mamdom.com. Poland’s largest Anglo-
Polish Property Portal with photos and native speaker translations.
No commission.
Ober-Haus Real Estate Advisors C-2, ul.
Sławkowska 10, tel. (+48) 12 428 17 00, www.oberhaus.pl.
Long established experts in residential, office,
logistics and retail real estate, both in Poland and the Baltics.
Founded in 1994 the database includes all types of large
and small flats, luxury suites, houses and villas.
Religious Services
Christ the King Church (Chrystus Królem) K-2, ul.
Mogilska 43, tel. (+48) 509 50 16 39, www.chk.org.
pl. English masses are held each Sunday at 10:30 in this
Evangelical church outside the Old Town.
Kupa Synagogue D-6, Ul. Warszauera 8. Jewish services
held regularly, check www.remuh.jewish.org.pl for details.
St. Giles Church (Kościół Św. Idziego) C-5, ul.
Grodzka 67, www.krakow.dominikanie.pl. Q Holy Mass
in English each Sunday at 10:30.
Translators & Interpreters
Anton Fecica B-2, ul. Dunajewskiego 8/11, tel. (+48)
12 422 73 37, www.fecica.pl. Can translate official documents.
Call in advance.
Lingua Expert C-3, ul. Mikołajska 5/9, tel. (+48) 12
421 06 63, www.linguaexpert.pl. Professional translators
who provide 24 hour services in all languages.
krakow.inyourpocket.com
DIRECTORY
Currency Exchange
Changing money in Kraków is increasingly less fretful to
do, but it is still worth checking and comparing exchange
rates, particularly at entry points such as airports and
in major tourist areas. Here we check the rates of a
selection of money exchange offices (kantors) every
two months. Below were their buying rates (how many
złoty you would get for one unit of foreign currency) for
18.01.13 compared to the following rates published by
the National Bank of Poland (NBP) for that morning: Euro
1 = 4.0785zł, US $1 = 3.0565zł, GBP 1 = 4.8798zł.
Currency Express ul. Kpt. M. Medweckiego 1
(Airport, International Arrivals), tel. (+48) 12 639
32 57, www.currency-express.com. 1 Euro = 3.49zł,
1 Dollar = 2.58zł, 1 Pound = 4.18zł. No commission.
Currency Express ul. Kpt. M. Medweckiego 1 (Airport,
International Departures), tel. (+48) 12 639
32 58, www.currency-express.com. 1 Euro = 3.55zł,
1 Dollar = 2.60zł, 1 Pound = 4.25zł. No commission.
Eurokantor B-3, ul. Szewska 21, tel. (+48) 12
421 55 65. 1 Euro = 4.10zł, 1 Dollar = 3.06zł, 1 Pound
= 4.85zł. No commission.
Kantor D-1, ul. Pawia 5 (Galeria Krakowska), tel.
(+48) 515 12 58 84, www.kantor-exchange.pl. 1
Euro = 4.10zł, 1 Dollar = 3.06zł, 1 Pound = 4.89zł. No
commission.
Kantor C-1, ul. Długa 8, tel. (+48) 12 421 73 55,
www.kantor.krakow.pl. 1 Euro = 4.11zł, 1 Dollar =
3.08zł, 1 Pound = 4.90zł. No commission.
Kantor J-3, ul. Podgórska 34 (Galeria Kazimierz),
tel. (+48) 535 70 08 04. 1 Euro = 4.09zł, 1 Dollar =
3.05zł, 1 Pound = 4.87zł. No commission.
February - March 2013
129

“A truly Polish experience.”
Gwad1978,
“A must for all good food
lovers when in Cracow.”
Cracow 2012,
“Ci voglio ritornare!”
massi1960 by
“Nowhere in Cracow have I eaten
a better pizza.”
Tadeusz Płatek by
ul. Sienna 12, Kraków
Phone 12 426 49 68
www.kogel-mogel.pl
English menu available.
Beer garden. Air conditioned.
ul. Karmelicka 14, Kraków
Phone +48 12 430 04 92
www.mammamia.net.pl
English and Italian
menu available.
Agrafka
BLU Plac
targowy

Etap
view point
Hilton Garden
Klatka
Bernatka
Węgi erska
Józefińska
Liban
Quarry
MOCAK
Fort Benedict
Kopiec
Krakusa
Schindler‘s
Factory
Jerozolimska

136 STREET REGISTER
29 Listopada, Al. J-1
3 Maja, Al. G/H-2/3
Akacjowa L-1
Akademicka H-2
Aliny L-1
Altanowa G-1
Ariańska J-2
Armii Krajowej, Al. F/G-1
Asnyka B-1/2
Augustiańska D-6-7
Bajeczna L-3
Bałuckiego A-6
Bandtkiego F-1
Bandurskiego K-1/2
Barska A/B-6/7
Bartosza E-6
Basztowa C/D-2
Batorego I-2
Beliny-Prażmowskiego, Al.
K-1/2
Berka Joselewicza E-5
Bernardyńska B/C-5/6
Biała Droga H-4
Biernackiego H-1
Biskupia B-1
Blachnickiego, ks. J-3
Blich J-3
Bobrowskiego K-3
Boczna H-4
Bohomolca L-1
Bocheńska J-4
Bonerowska E-4
Bonifraterska D-7
Bora-Komorowskiego, gen.
K/L-1
Borowego F-2
Bosacka E-1/2
Bożego Ciała D-6/7
Boznańskiej K-1
Bracka C-3/4
Brązownicza F-2
Brodowicza K-1/2
Bronowicka F/G-1
Brzozowa D-5
Bułhaka A-7
Buszka F/G-2
Bydgoska G-1/2
Bytomska H-1
Ceglarska H-5
Celna J-4
Chmielowskiego I/J-4
Chocimska H-1/2
Chodkiewicza J-3
Chodowieckiego G-2
Chopina H-2
Ciemna E-6
Cieszyńska I-1
Cicha F-1
Ćwiklowa F-5
Cybulskiego A-3
Cystersów L-2/3
Czapskich A-3
Czarnieckiego J-4
Czarnowiejska H-2
Czarodziejska G/H-4
Czysta A-2
Czyżówka J-5
Dąbrowskiego, gen. K-4
Dąbska L-2
Dajwór E-6
Daszyńskiego J-3/4
Dębnicka H-4
Dębowa A-7
Dekerta K-4
Dembowskiego J/K-5
Dietla C/E-4/6
Długa C-1
Długosza J-5
Dobrego Pasterza K/L-1
Dolnych Młynów A-2
Dominikańska C-4
Droga do Zamku B/C-5-6
Dunajewskiego B/C-2
Dworska H-4
Dzielskiego K/L-1
Estery D-6
Fabryczna L-2/3
Fałata H-3
Feldmana A-1
Felicjanek A-4
Fenn’a Sereno I-2
Filarecka H-3
Flisacka H-3/4
Floriańska C/D-2/3
Focha, Al. marsz. G/H-3
Franciszkańska B/C-4
Friedleina I-1
Galla G/H-1
Garbarska B-2
Garczyńskiego K-2
Garncarska H-2/3
Gazowa E-7
Gęsia K-3
Głowackiego G-1
Goetla G-2
Gołębia B-3
Gontyna G-3
Grabowskiego A-1
Gramatyka G-1
Grodzka C-3/5
Gromadzka L-4/5
Grottgera H/I-1
Grunwaldzka K-1/2
Gryfity G-3
Grzegórzecka E-4
Gzymsików I-1
Halicka J-3/4
Helclów I-1
Herlinga-Grudzińskiego K-4
Heweliusza L-5
Hofmana F-3
Humberta H-3
Igrców G-2
Ingardena H-3
Izaaka D/E-6
Jabłonowskich H/I-3
Jadwigi z Łobzowa F/G-1
Jagiellońska B-2/3
Jachowicza L-2
Jakuba E-6
Jaskółcza H-3
Joselewicza J-3
Józefa D/E-6
Józefitów H-1
Kadecka G-1
Kalwaryjska I/J-5
Kamienna I/J-1
Kamieńskiego I/J-5
Kanonicza C-4/5
Kapelanka H-4/5
Kapucyńska A/B-3
Karłowicza H-2
Karmelicka A/B-1/2
Kasztelańska G/H-3
Kazimierza Odnowiciela K-1
Kazimierza Wielkiego G/H-1
Kielecka K-1/2
Kiełkowskiego K/L-4
Kijowska, Al. G/H-1/2
Kilińskiego A-7
Klimeckiego K/L-4
Kmieca H-1
Kobierzyńska H-5
Kochanowskiego A-1/2
Koletek C-6
Kołłątaja E-3
Komandosów I-4/5
Konarskiego H-2
Konfederacka A-7
Konopnickiej A/B-5/7
Konwisarzy F-1/2
Kopernika D/E-3
Kordylewskiego K-2/3
Kościuszki H-3
Kosynierów L-2
Kotlarska K-3
Koźlarska L-5
Krakowska D-6/7
Krasickiego I-5
Krasińskiego, Al. H-3
Kraszewskiego H-3
Kredowa F-5
Kremerowska A-1
Królewska H-1
Królowej Jadwigi F/G-2/3
Krótka C-1
Krowoderska C-1
Krupnicza A/B-2/3
Krzemionki J-5
Krzesławicka L-1
Krzywa C-1
Krzywda L-4/5
ks. Kordeckiego C-6/7
Księcia Józefa F/G-4
Kujawska H-1
Kupa E-6
Kurkowa J-2
Kurniki D-1
Kwartowa L-1
Lanckorońska K-5
Lea F/H-1/2
Legionów Piłsudskiego J-4/5
Lenartowicza H/I-1/2
Leszczynowa F-3
Lewkowa E-6
Limanowskiego J/K-4
Lipowa K-4
Litewska H-1
Loretańska A-2/3
Lubelska I-1
Lubicz D/E-2
Lublańska K-1
Lubomirskiego J/K-2
Ludowa K-5
Ludwinowska I-4/5
Lwowska J-K/4
Łobzowska B-1/2
Madalińskiego A-6
Mała A-4
Malczewskiego F/G-3-4
Mały Rynek C-3
Masarska K-3
Matejki, Pl. I/J-2
Mazowiecka H/I-1
Meiselsa D-6
Metalowców E-3/4
Mickiewicza, Al. H-2
Michałowskiego A-1/2
Michałowskiego H/I-2
Mikołajska C/D-3
Miodowa D/E-5/6
Mitery I-5
Mlaskotów H-3
Młyńska K-1
Mogilska K/L-1/2
Moniuszki K-2
Monte Cassino A-7
Montelupich I-1
Mosiężnicza K-2
Mostowa D/E-7
Na Gródku D-3
Na Przejściu E-6
Na Szaniec L-3
Na Ustroniu I-4
Na Zjeździe J-4
Nadwislanska J-4
Nawojki G-2
Oboźna H-1
Odlewnicza F-1/2
Odrowąża I-1
Ofiar Dąbia L-3
Ogrodowa D-1
Oleandry H-2/3
Olszańska K-1
Orawska I-5
Orzeszkowej C-6/7
Owcy-Orwicza F-3
Paderewskiego C/D-1
Paproci L-4
Parkowa J-5
Patynów G-4
Paulińska C-6/7
Pawia D-1/2
Pawlickiego, ks. H-4/5
Pędzichów I-1/2
Piastowska F/G-1/3
Piekarska C/D-7
Pietrusińskiego G-4/5
Pijarów K/L-1
Pijarska C/D-2
Piłsudskiego A/B-3/4
Piwna J-4
Pl. Bawół E-6
Pl. Bernardyński C-5
Pl. Biskupi B/C-1
Pl. Bohaterów Getta J-4
Pl. gen. Sikorskiego A-3
Pl. Inwalidów H-2
Pl. Kossaka A-5
Pl. Mariacki C-3
Pl. Matejki D-1/2
Pl. Na Groblach B-4/5
Pl. Nowy D-6
Pl. Słowiański C-1
Pl. Serkowskiego J-4/5
Pl. Szczepański B-2
Pl. Św. Ducha D-2
Pl. Św. Marii Magdaleny C-4
Pl. Wolnica D-7
Pl. Wszytkich Świętych C-4
Płaszowska L-4
Pod Kopcem F-3
Pod Kopcem, Al. K-5
Podbrzezie J-3
Podbrzezie D-5/6
Podgórska E-7
Podchorążych G-1
Podskale I/J-5
Podwale B-2/3
Podzamcze B/C-5
Pokoju, Al. K/L-2/3
Półkole L-3
Pomorska H-1
Portowa K/L-4
Poselska B/C-4
Powiśle A/B-5
Powroźnicza A-6
Powstańców Śląskich, Al.
J/K-5
Powstańców Wielkopolskich,
Al. K/L-4/5
Powstania Warszaw. Al.
K-2/3
Prądnicka I-1
Prandoty J/K-1
Praska G/H-4
Prusa H-3
Przedwiośnie I-4/5
Przemysłowa K-4
Przybyszewskiego F-1
Pułaskiego A-6/7
Racławicka H-1
Radziwiłłowska E-2/3
Rajska A-2
Rakowicka J/K-1/2
Reformacka A/B-2
Rękawka J/K-4
Retoryka A-4
Reymana G-2
Reymonta G/H-2
Rodackiego J/K-5
Różana A-6
Ruczaj F/G-5
Rybaki I/J-4
Rybna L-4/5
Rynek Dębnicki A-6
Rynek Główny C-3
Rynek Kleparski C/D-1
Rynek Podgórski J-4
Rzeszowska E-6
Rzeźnicza K-3
Sądowa K-2
Salezjańska G/H-5
Salwatorska H-3
Sandomierska A/B-6
Sarego C/D-4/5
Saska L-4/5
Senacka C-4
Senatorska H-3
Siedleckiego E-4/5
Siemieńskiego G/H-1
Siemiradzkiego A-1
Sienkiewicza H-1
Sienna C-3/4
Skałeczna C/D-7
Skalica F-5
Skarbińskiego G-1
Skawińska C/D-7
Skłodowskiej-Curie D/E-3
Skwerowa A-7
Sławkowska C-2/3
Słomiana H-4/5
Słoneckiego K-1
Słonecznikowa F-3
Słowackiego, Al. H/I-1
Smocza B-6
Smoleńsk A/B-4
Smolki I/J-5
Sobieskiego I-2
Sobieskiego Jana III A/B-1
Sołtyka E-3/4
Spasowskiego A/B-1
Spiżowa F-1/2
Starowiślna D/E-4/6
Staszica I-1
Stawarza J-5
Stefana Batorego A/B-1
Stoczniowców L-4
Stolarska C-3/4
Stradomska C/D-5/6
Straszewskiego I-3
Strzelców K-1
Strzelecka E-2
Studencka A/B-3
Sukiennicza C-6
Supniewskiego K-1/2
Swoszowicka J-5
Symfoniczna H-2
Syrokomli H-3
Szablowskiego F-1
Szafera K-2/3
Szczepańska B/C-2/3
Szenwalda L-1/2
Szeroka E-6
Szewska B-2/3
Szklarska L-4
Szlachtowskiego G-1
Szlak I/J-1
Szpitalna C/D-2/3
Szwedzka H-4
Szymanowskiego H-2
Śląska I-1
Śliska I-5
Ślusarska K-4
Śniadeckiego J-3/4
Św. Agnieszki C-6
Św. Anny B-3
Św. Bronisławy G-3
Św. Filipa C/D-1
Św. Gertrudy C/D-4/5
Św. Idziego C-5
Św. Jacka H-5
Św. Jana C-2/3
Św. Katarzyny D-6/7
Św. Krzyża D-3
Św. Łazarza J-3
Św. Marka C/D-2/3
Św. Sebastiana C/E-5
Św. Stanisława C-7
Św. Teresy I-1
Św. Tomasza B/D-2/3
Św. Wawrzyńca D/E-6/7
Świętokrzyska I-1
Tenczyńska B-4
Tkacka H-2
Topolowa J-2
Toruńska G-2
Traugutta K-4
Trynitarska D/E-7
Twardowskiego H-5
Tyniecka F/H-4/5
Urzędnicza H-1/2
Wadowicka I-5
Wałowa K-4
Wandy K-3
Warmijska G-1
Warszauera D/E-6
Warszawska D-1
Wasilewskiego A-7
Wąska E-6
Waszyngtona G-3
Węglowa D-7
Wenecja A-3
Westerplatte D-2/3
Widok L-3
Wielopole J-3
Wierzbowa I-4
Wietora I-4
Wioślarska G-4
Wiślna B-3
Władysława Łokietka I-1
Włościańska F-1
Wodna L-5
Wodociągowa F-4
Wójtowska H-1
Wolnica, Pl. J-4
Worcela D-2
Wróblewskiego I-1/2
Wrocławska H/I-1
Wrzesińska E-4
Wyczółkowskiego G/H-3
Wygoda A-4
Wyspiańskiego H-1
Zacisze D-1/2
Zakątek H-1
Zamenhofa D/E-2
Zamkowa A-6
Zarzecze F-1
Zatorska I-4/5
Zaułek K-4
Zegadłowicza A-4
Zielińskiego, gen. G/H-4
Zwierzyniecka A/B-4/5
Zwycięstwa L-2/3
Zyblikiewicza D/E-3/4
Zygmunta Augusta J-2
Żelazna J-1
Żółkiewskiego K-3
Kraków In Your Pocket krakow.inyourpocket.com
HOTELS
Amadeus 27
Amber 29
andel's Hotel Cracow 27
Apartment Cracow 33
Apartmenthouse Grodzka 33
Ascot Hotel 29
B&B La Fontaine 33
Best Western Kraków Old
Town 27
Campanile 30
Classic 30
Copernicus 25
Eden 30
Flamingo Hostel 33
Francuski 27
Galaxy 27
Grand 25
Greg & Tom 33
Gródek 25
Hilton Garden Inn Kraków 28
Holiday Inn Krakow City
Center 25
Hotel Stary 25
Hotel Unicus 28
Chopin Cracow 30
Ibis Budget Kraków
Bronowice 32
Ibis Budget Kraków Stare
Miasto 32
Ibis Kraków Centrum 30
Ibis Kraków Stare Miasto 30
Karmel 31
Klezmer Hois 31
Komorowski Luxury Guest
Rooms 25
Matejko 28
Niebieski Art Hotel & SPA 26
Novotel Kraków Centrum 28
Novotel Kraków City West 28
Andersa, al., gen. M/N-1/3
Artystów N-3
Bardosa T-4
Batalionu Parasol M-1
Boruty-Spiechowicza, gen.
M-2/3
Bulwarowa P/R-1/4
Centralny, pl. N/O-3
Cerchów P-4
Daniłowskiego R-4
Gajocha O-3/4
Gardy-Godlewskiego, płk.
O-2/3
Jana Pawła II, al. M/R-3/4
Klasztorna R-5
Kleinera T-1
Kocmyrzowska M/N-1
Lehra-Spławińskiego T-1
Ludźmierska N-1/2
Łempickiego S-1
Mierzwy O/R-3/4
Mościckiego O/P-1
krakow.inyourpocket.com
Park Inn by Radisson
Krakow 29
Pod Różą 29
Pod Wawelem 31
Pollera 31
Qubus Hotel Kraków 29
Radisson Blu 26
Royal 31
Rubinstein Residence 29
Ruczaj 32
Sheraton Kraków 26
The Bonerowski Palace 26
The Secret Garden Hostel 33
Tournet 32
Wawel 32
Wielopole 32
Wyspiański 32
RESTAURANTS
Al Dente 43
Alebriche 51
Alef 50
Amadeus 37
Amarone 43
Andromeda 37
Aperitif 38
Aqua e Vino 43
Ariel 50
Bagelmama 34
Balaton 37
Bar Italiano 44
Bar Smak 52
Bar Targowy 60
Baroque 38
Bombaj Tandoori 37
C.K. Browar 53
Cafe Młynek 62
Ceska Chodba 36
COCA 44
Nowa Huta Street Register
Obrońców Krzyża N-1
Orkana P/R-3
Padniewskiego, bp. M-4
Przyjaźni, al. N/O-2/3
Ptaszyckiego R/T-4/5
Róż, al. O-1/2
Rydza-Śmigłego, marsz.
M/P-1/2
Sieroszewskiego P/R-5
Solidarności, al. O/T-1/3
Stalowa O-1
Struga P-2
Tomickiego, bp. M-3/4
Ujastek T-1
Ujastek Mogilski T-2/4
Wańkowicza S-1
Wąwozowa S-1
Wiśniowy Sad M-2
Wojciechowskiego P-1
Zachemskiego P-4/5
Zuchów P-3/4
Żeromskiego O/P-1/2
LISTINGS INDEX
Symbol Key
P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted
O Casino H Conference facilities
T Child friendly U Facilities for the disabled
R Internet L Guarded parking
F Fitness centre G No smoking
K Restaurant X Smoking room available
D Sauna C Swimming pool
E Live music W Wi-Fi
6 Animal friendly S Take away
I Fireplace J Old Town location
Y Tourist Card accepted V Home delivery
Copernicus 38
Corleone 44
Cyrano de Bergerac 36
Czerwone Korale 53
Da Pietro 44
Dawno Temu Na Kazimierzu
50
Deli Bar 37
Diego & Bohumil 36
Diego & Bohumil 50
Dynia Resto Bar 38
Europejska 38
Europejska 48
Fabryka Pizzy 44
Farina 61
Genji Premium Sushi 47
Glonojad 62
Grande Grill 34
Green Way 62
Hamsa 43
Hard Rock Cafe 34
Hawełka 54
Chimera 52
Chimera Salad Bar 44
Chłopskie Jadło 53
Chopin 53
Il Calzone 44
Il Vizio 46
Indus Tandoor 37
Jarema 54
Karma 63
Kawaleria Szarża Smaku 54
Kaze 47
Klezmer Hois 50
Kogel Mogel 54
Koji 49
Kuchnia i Wino 39
La Campana Trattoria 46
La Fontaine 36
Le Scandale 48
Leonardo 46
Love Krove 38
Magnes 39
Mamma Mia 46
Manzana 48
Manzana 50
Marmolada 54
Met Cafe & Brasserie 48
Milano Ristorante 46
Milkbar Tomasza 55
Miód i Wino 55
Miód Malina 55
Moaburger 38
Moment 48
Momo 63
Moo Moo Steak & Burger
Club 38
Morela 55
Morskie Oko 55
Musso Sushi 49
Nostalgia 58
Papryczki 5 51
Pierożki u Vincenta 58
Pimiento 51
Pod Aniołami 58
Pod Baranem 58
Pod Różą 39
Pod Temidą 60
Pod Wawelem 59
Polakowski 59
Portobello 44
Portofino 51
Ratuszowa 40
Raw Organic 63
Restauracja Gessler we
Francuskim 59
Restauracja Unicus 40
Resto Illuminati 40
Roti Roti 37
Samui 62
Scandale Royal 41
Smak Ukraiński 62
SomePlace Else 34
Spółdzielnia Organic Resto &
Take-away 63
Stara Zajezdnia 59
February - March 2013
137

138
Starka 60
Studio Qulinarne 41
Sushisquare 49
Szara 41
Szara Kazimierz 41
Taco Mexicano El Pueblo 52
The Mexican 52
The Olive 41
The Piano Rouge 42
Tradycyja 42
Trattoria Pistola 47
Trattoria Prima 47
Trezo 60
Trufla 42
Trzy Papryczki 47
Trzy Rybki 42
U Babci Maliny 60
U Stasi 44
U Ziyada 42
Vanilla Sky 43
Vega 63
Warsztat 51
Wentzl Magda Gessler 60
Wesele 60
Wierzynek 61
Wiśniowy Sad 61
Yellow Dog 34
Zazie Bistro 36
Zbójcy w Pałacu 61
Zen Restaurant & Sushi Bar
49
CAFÉS
LISTINGS INDEX
Bal 64
Cafe Botanica 64
Camelot 64
Charlotte. Chleb i Wino 64
Chocoffee 64
Cafe Culca 66
Karma Coffee Roasters 66
Mamy Cafe 66
Noworolski 66
Royal Art Cafe 66
Słodki Wawel 66
Słodki Wierzynek 66
NIGHTLIFE
Alchemia 76
Ambasada Śledzia 73
Antycafe 67
Artefakt Cafe 76
Baccarat 72
BaniaLuka 73
Baroque 67
Baroque 72
base music club 72
Beer Gallery - Luxury 67
Bomba 67
Budda Drink & Garden 68
Bull Pub 68
Bunkier Cafe 68
Burlesque 72
C.K. Browar 68
Cafe & Club Kalashnikov 76
Cień 73
Diva Music Gallery 73
Dym 69
Eszeweria 76
Fashion Time 73
Frantic 73
Gorączka 74
Gospoda Koko 72
Hard Rock Cafe 69
Harris Piano Jazz Bar 75
House Of Beer 69
Cheers Pub 68
Irish Mbassy 69
Kielbaski z Niebieskiej Nyski
72
Kitsch 74
Klub Pauza 74
Klub Piękny Pies 77
KotKarola 74
Le Scandale 76
Les Couleurs 76
Literki 77
Lizard King 74
Miejsce 76
Migawka 76
Ministerstwo 74
Mleczarnia 76
Moment 77
Movida Coctail Bar 69
Omerta 77
Pauza 69
Piec'Art 75
Pijalnia Wódki i Piwa 73
Pod Papugami Irish Pub 70
Pozytywka 77
Propaganda 77
Prozak 2.0 75
QUBE 70
Rdza 75
Rozrywki Trzy 75
Scandale Royal 72
Shakers Kraków 75
Singer 77
SomePlace Else 70
Spazio 70
Społem 75
Stalowe Magnolie 74
Święta Krowa 70
Taawa 77
The Piano Rouge 75
U Muniaka 75
Zapiecek Ekspres 72
Features Index
A Polish Easter 33
Barbican 83
Breakfast 48
Cloth Hall 86
Cracovian Cooking A-O 56
Cracovian Cooking P-Z 57
Currency Exchange 129
Dining At A Glance 34
Facts & Figures 18
Fat Thursday 62
Flower Power 127
Gift Shopping At a Glance 122
Guided Tours 82
Have Your Say 63
Hot Beer? 67
Jazz Clubs 75
Kolejka Board Game 123
Kraków Historical Timeline 78
Krakus Mound 98
Lady With an Ermine 93
Language Smarts 19
Late Night Eats 72
Liban Quary 101
Live Music 74
Main Market Square 84
Market Values 19
Memories of Lenin 107
Milk Bars 60
Nightlife At A Glance 67
Out of Centre 88
Plac Nowy 95
Plac Wolnica 94
Płaszów 8
Polish Desserts 65
Polish Friends of Beer Party 40
Polish Name Days (Imieniny) 41
Polish Vodka 70
Public Transport 15
Quick Eats 44
Rynek Underground 89
Słowacki Theatre 88
Station History 13
The Drowning of Marzanna 28
The Hejnał 79
The Legend of Wanda 107
The Maluch 51
The Nowa Huta Cross 106
The Obwarzanek 54
The Wawel Chakra 90
The Zbruch Idol 90
Tipping Tribulations 39
Witkacy' 31
Zakąski Przekąski 73
Zakrzówek 119
Kraków In Your Pocket krakow.inyourpocket.com