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Words & photos: tash marti<br />
p u b c r a w l<br />
does<br />
<strong>the</strong> biggest<br />
pub crawl<br />
<strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> world<br />
12 nights, five dest<strong>in</strong>ations, one hell of a party<br />
E<br />
VER<br />
wanted to<br />
check out<br />
<strong>the</strong> f<strong>in</strong>est<br />
sights of<br />
Europe? In<br />
October, <strong>FHM</strong> chick Tash<br />
Marti, got to do just that,<br />
through <strong>the</strong> bottom of her<br />
beer glass. Keep<strong>in</strong>g a dayby-day<br />
diary, Tash, travelled<br />
through Europe from bar to<br />
bar, on one seriously boozy<br />
session that she would never<br />
forget. Even if she does only<br />
remember half of it. We’re<br />
just glad she kept a diary.<br />
day one – let’s<br />
get this party<br />
started!<br />
After a full day spent<br />
travell<strong>in</strong>g across <strong>the</strong> globe, I<br />
roll <strong>in</strong>to my hotel, relieved<br />
that it didn’t smell anyth<strong>in</strong>g<br />
like <strong>the</strong> airplane, a tasteful<br />
comb<strong>in</strong>ation of stale coffee,<br />
peanuts and strange body<br />
odours. I was jetlagged and<br />
ready to hit <strong>the</strong> sack when<br />
my phone rang. I heard a<br />
very energetic sound<strong>in</strong>g<br />
tour guide on <strong>the</strong> o<strong>the</strong>r l<strong>in</strong>e,<br />
tell<strong>in</strong>g me that rest is for <strong>the</strong><br />
weak and it was time to get<br />
<strong>the</strong> party started.<br />
Stepp<strong>in</strong>g <strong>in</strong>to Oktoberfest<br />
I realised that I had highly<br />
underestimated <strong>the</strong> sheer<br />
size and atmosphere of <strong>the</strong><br />
whole event. I don’t th<strong>in</strong>k<br />
I’ve ever seen that many hot<br />
dogs and pretzels <strong>in</strong> my life.<br />
There were stalls and rides<br />
as far as <strong>the</strong> eye could see,<br />
and <strong>the</strong> beer tents were<br />
huge, fitt<strong>in</strong>g 10, 000 pissed<br />
punters <strong>in</strong> each tent.<br />
As I walked <strong>in</strong>to <strong>the</strong> first<br />
tent, I thought to myself.<br />
‘Okay Tash…6.3 million<br />
dr<strong>in</strong>kers, 6.7 million litres of<br />
beer. Time to dr<strong>in</strong>k your<br />
Malaysia proud!’<br />
day two<br />
Second day <strong>in</strong>to <strong>the</strong> tour<br />
and <strong>the</strong> hangovers had<br />
already begun. At<br />
breakfast, I couldn’t count a<br />
s<strong>in</strong>gle person on tour that<br />
morn<strong>in</strong>g that didn’t have<br />
that awkward expression<br />
that shouts “I have to spend<br />
<strong>the</strong> next 12 days with a<br />
bunch of randoms and I<br />
can’t even remember what I<br />
did last night!”. Luckily, by<br />
<strong>the</strong> looks of th<strong>in</strong>gs,<br />
everyone had got just as<br />
written off as each o<strong>the</strong>r,<br />
so I put my game face on,<br />
fuelled up on breakfast and<br />
headed straight back to<br />
those beer tents.<br />
The Germans have<br />
def<strong>in</strong>itely got <strong>the</strong>ir priorities<br />
<strong>in</strong> order: almost every chick<br />
(<strong>in</strong>clud<strong>in</strong>g <strong>the</strong> hot bar<br />
maids) are dressed <strong>in</strong><br />
traditional Bavarian dirndls,<br />
a flatter<strong>in</strong>g outfit that you’ll<br />
def<strong>in</strong>itely want to raise your<br />
ste<strong>in</strong> to. The beer tents<br />
open at 10am and close<br />
at 10pm, giv<strong>in</strong>g a full 12<br />
hour work-out of spill<strong>in</strong>g<br />
your ste<strong>in</strong> on happy party<br />
goers from all over <strong>the</strong><br />
globe. It’s totally chaotic,<br />
which is not surpris<strong>in</strong>g<br />
see<strong>in</strong>g as Oktoberfest<br />
dishes out enough beer to<br />
fill six Olympic size<br />
swimm<strong>in</strong>g pools!<br />
After five hours of lift<strong>in</strong>g<br />
ste<strong>in</strong>s as big as my head<br />
and s<strong>in</strong>g<strong>in</strong>g along to an old<br />
German Brass Band belt<strong>in</strong>g<br />
out Highway to Hell,<br />
I decided I needed some<br />
fresh air, and what better<br />
way to get fresh air than<br />
fly<strong>in</strong>g up and down<br />
rollercoasters at 85km<br />
an hour? With my new<br />
addition of liquid courage,<br />
every massive ride seemed<br />
like a small obstacle <strong>in</strong> my<br />
adventures. I even took my<br />
chances at a merry-goround<br />
which had a bar and<br />
one super-hot bar maid <strong>in</strong><br />
<strong>the</strong> middle. One day, all<br />
merry-go-rounds will be<br />
made this way.<br />
day three<br />
After two days of <strong>in</strong>tensive<br />
dr<strong>in</strong>k<strong>in</strong>g, fast rides, ample<br />
hotties <strong>in</strong> dirdnls and loud<br />
brass bands, I was<br />
wonder<strong>in</strong>g if <strong>the</strong> next town<br />
we arrived <strong>in</strong> was a joke.<br />
We were about to<br />
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“Dusseldorf is<br />
home to <strong>the</strong><br />
world’s longest<br />
bar, and <strong>the</strong> place<br />
boasts 360 pubs<br />
<strong>in</strong> it’s t<strong>in</strong>y city<br />
square”<br />
spend <strong>the</strong> next three days <strong>in</strong><br />
Maria Alm, a t<strong>in</strong>y town <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />
middle of <strong>the</strong> Austrian Alps.<br />
With three pubs and<br />
population of 2000, it was<br />
certa<strong>in</strong>ly <strong>the</strong> most unlikely<br />
dest<strong>in</strong>ation for <strong>the</strong> hard-core<br />
pub tour we were cruis<strong>in</strong>g<br />
on. But that night quality<br />
soon overrode quantity<br />
when we started dr<strong>in</strong>k<strong>in</strong>g<br />
from roof-based wooden<br />
wagon wheels that<br />
dispensed different flavours<br />
of schnapps straight <strong>in</strong>to<br />
your mouth as it sp<strong>in</strong>s.<br />
day four<br />
Maria Alm’s picturesque<br />
streets, timbered houses and<br />
gentle little river w<strong>in</strong>d<strong>in</strong>g<br />
through <strong>the</strong> centre def<strong>in</strong>itely<br />
made it seem like a set out of<br />
Lord of <strong>the</strong> R<strong>in</strong>gs. Stepp<strong>in</strong>g<br />
out of <strong>the</strong> hotel, I looked<br />
across <strong>the</strong> village and<br />
wondered if I would meet any<br />
hobbits that day. The town<br />
sure was t<strong>in</strong>y but after an<br />
amaz<strong>in</strong>g night I began to<br />
have a new appreciation for<br />
it…even <strong>in</strong> my <strong>in</strong>credibly<br />
hung over state.<br />
With <strong>the</strong> Alps tower<strong>in</strong>g <strong>in</strong><br />
every direction, this town was<br />
easier on <strong>the</strong> eye than a<br />
Hannah Tan cover shoot. One<br />
pub we drank at that day<br />
was tucked away half way up<br />
<strong>the</strong> Alps, and <strong>the</strong> dr<strong>in</strong>k<strong>in</strong>g<br />
area consisted of a wooden<br />
balcony that had a clear view<br />
of <strong>the</strong> whole town. It was<br />
difficult to decide whe<strong>the</strong>r<br />
I liked this dr<strong>in</strong>k<strong>in</strong>g hole<br />
better than <strong>the</strong> legendary<br />
Dengl Alm down <strong>the</strong> road<br />
that served hot shots of<br />
schnapps and dr<strong>in</strong>ks by <strong>the</strong><br />
metre, wooden racks of 10 of<br />
your favourite dr<strong>in</strong>ks at<br />
a time! Hmm…maybe I’ll<br />
decide over ano<strong>the</strong>r beer.<br />
day five<br />
It would seem that <strong>in</strong> this<br />
wild town, <strong>the</strong>re’s people just<br />
wait<strong>in</strong>g to give you shots of<br />
schnapps everywhere you<br />
go. 10am and rock<strong>in</strong>g up at<br />
a rustic old barn on <strong>the</strong><br />
outskirts <strong>the</strong> town, <strong>the</strong>re was<br />
a hot Austrian chick<br />
stand<strong>in</strong>g with a tray of<br />
schnapps for everyone on<br />
tour to enjoy. We called it <strong>the</strong><br />
“Austrian breakfast for<br />
champions”, and downed<br />
<strong>the</strong>m two at a time.<br />
We were <strong>the</strong>n told we<br />
were about to trek up<br />
a mounta<strong>in</strong> to dr<strong>in</strong>k at<br />
4,000ft above sea level.<br />
I was dread<strong>in</strong>g <strong>the</strong><br />
No prizes for <strong>the</strong> first<br />
person to look at <strong>the</strong><br />
large beer glasses,<br />
<strong>the</strong>n <strong>the</strong> buxom<br />
beauties, before<br />
declar<strong>in</strong>g “Nice jugs!’<br />
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comb<strong>in</strong>ation of schnapps<br />
and a long hike up until <strong>the</strong><br />
transport arrived. It was <strong>the</strong>n<br />
I began to th<strong>in</strong>k that maybe<br />
a relax<strong>in</strong>g walk wasn’t such<br />
a bad idea. Transport up <strong>the</strong><br />
Austrian Alps was far<br />
different to <strong>the</strong> five-star<br />
coach we were roll<strong>in</strong>g <strong>in</strong><br />
earlier. Instead, we drove up<br />
<strong>the</strong> Alps on loosely-strungtoge<strong>the</strong>r<br />
farm equipment<br />
that had all <strong>the</strong> luxury and<br />
safety features of a homemade<br />
third world convertible.<br />
Safety first kids.<br />
4,000ft later and we were<br />
stepp<strong>in</strong>g on a private<br />
residence worth around<br />
RM25million. Alp<strong>in</strong>e booz<strong>in</strong>g<br />
has never been better as<br />
we sat on <strong>the</strong> roof dr<strong>in</strong>k<strong>in</strong>g<br />
and soak<strong>in</strong>g up <strong>the</strong> warm<br />
sun and crispy fresh air<br />
that made our cold beers<br />
taste that much better.<br />
The view was absolutely<br />
breathtak<strong>in</strong>g, and well worth<br />
<strong>the</strong> potentially life<br />
threaten<strong>in</strong>g ride up. All that<br />
was miss<strong>in</strong>g was a barbecue<br />
and some good music.<br />
Maybe next year.
day six<br />
A few days of dr<strong>in</strong>k<strong>in</strong>g with<br />
<strong>the</strong> locals <strong>in</strong> Maria Alm and<br />
we were back off to <strong>the</strong> big<br />
city. Thankful that we were<br />
back to travell<strong>in</strong>g on <strong>the</strong><br />
five-star coach <strong>the</strong> crew<br />
jumped on and headed<br />
straight to <strong>the</strong> bar at <strong>the</strong><br />
back. Seven hours’ worth of<br />
beers later and<br />
we were jump<strong>in</strong>g off at<br />
Europe’s party capital,<br />
Prague <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> Czech<br />
Republic, where <strong>the</strong><br />
Abs<strong>in</strong><strong>the</strong> is almost as<br />
abundant as water.<br />
Dr<strong>in</strong>k<strong>in</strong>g all day by bus<br />
seemed like a great idea at<br />
<strong>the</strong> time, but by night time,<br />
we were all completely<br />
goosed. The tour group met<br />
up <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> lobby, completely<br />
unprepared for night that<br />
was <strong>in</strong> store for us. I’m not<br />
sure if it was just an<br />
awesome night, or if it had<br />
someth<strong>in</strong>g to do with all <strong>the</strong><br />
complementary shots of<br />
Abs<strong>in</strong><strong>the</strong> we got at <strong>the</strong> first<br />
pub, but every dr<strong>in</strong>k<strong>in</strong>g jo<strong>in</strong>t<br />
along this pub tour was like<br />
a dream come true. One<br />
club that really stood out<br />
was seven storeys tall, with<br />
every floor packed full of<br />
bars, dance floors and<br />
Eastern European hotties.<br />
day seven<br />
Day seven and I was<br />
struggl<strong>in</strong>g. Although <strong>the</strong><br />
abs<strong>in</strong><strong>the</strong> is almost as<br />
abundant as water here –<br />
it certa<strong>in</strong>ly does not have<br />
<strong>the</strong> same hydrat<strong>in</strong>g effect.<br />
Claire, <strong>the</strong> bubbly 19 yearold<br />
girl I was tw<strong>in</strong> shar<strong>in</strong>g<br />
with woke me and I was<br />
devastated to hear that<br />
breakfast had just f<strong>in</strong>ished.<br />
It looked like we were<br />
go<strong>in</strong>g to have to step out<br />
<strong>in</strong>to <strong>the</strong> bl<strong>in</strong>d<strong>in</strong>g sunlight<br />
if we were go<strong>in</strong>g to have<br />
anyth<strong>in</strong>g to eat.<br />
On <strong>the</strong> journey to f<strong>in</strong>d <strong>the</strong><br />
best anti-hangover meal of<br />
all time, we passed at least<br />
five cas<strong>in</strong>os and about eight<br />
bars. The folks <strong>in</strong> Prague<br />
sure have <strong>the</strong>ir priorities<br />
right, it seemed that <strong>the</strong>re<br />
were cas<strong>in</strong>os and bars on<br />
just about every corner. We<br />
even stumbled past some<br />
<strong>in</strong>side <strong>the</strong> shopp<strong>in</strong>g centres.<br />
Just when I thought I’d<br />
seen it all and experienced<br />
every possible degree of<br />
hangover, we rocked up at<br />
pub called <strong>the</strong> Beer Factory.<br />
It was any beer lover’s<br />
heaven, with beer taps at<br />
every table, mak<strong>in</strong>g you your<br />
very own bartender. No time<br />
wasted stand<strong>in</strong>g over a bar<br />
order<strong>in</strong>g dr<strong>in</strong>ks and<br />
absolutely no one to cut you<br />
off. If you head here though,<br />
you better make sure your<br />
dr<strong>in</strong>k<strong>in</strong>g stam<strong>in</strong>a is up to<br />
scratch, because each<br />
table’s progress is displayed<br />
on several big screens<br />
around <strong>the</strong> pub – list<strong>in</strong>g<br />
every table’s consumption<br />
from hardest to weakest.<br />
Survival Tip #1:<br />
Protect your tap from<br />
thiev<strong>in</strong>g mates.<br />
day eight<br />
Prague sure is one big<br />
city to handle. It was my<br />
third day here and I hadn’t<br />
made it to a s<strong>in</strong>gle<br />
breakfast. No thanks to <strong>the</strong><br />
rag<strong>in</strong>g hangovers that<br />
seemed to come hand <strong>in</strong><br />
hand with Prague.<br />
Utterly exhausted by<br />
Prague’s explosive night life,<br />
my mate and I decided to<br />
venture out dur<strong>in</strong>g <strong>the</strong> day<br />
and see what (o<strong>the</strong>r than<br />
great beer and ample<br />
abs<strong>in</strong><strong>the</strong>) <strong>the</strong> <strong>in</strong>credible city<br />
had to offer. Even with<br />
a throbb<strong>in</strong>g headache and<br />
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squ<strong>in</strong>ty eyes, Prague’s<br />
beautiful build<strong>in</strong>gs were<br />
breathtak<strong>in</strong>g. We even<br />
trekked as far as <strong>the</strong><br />
Prague castle, which is even<br />
older than Picasso’s mum<br />
and also one of <strong>the</strong> biggest<br />
castles <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> world. There<br />
was even a little bar just<br />
outside <strong>the</strong> castle that<br />
served refresh<strong>in</strong>g beers for<br />
those who preferred<br />
sightsee<strong>in</strong>g through <strong>the</strong><br />
bottom of <strong>the</strong>ir glasses.<br />
That night <strong>the</strong> tour was<br />
taken to what <strong>the</strong> tour guide<br />
referred to as <strong>the</strong> “coolest<br />
Hell on Earth”. Harley’s Bar<br />
is <strong>the</strong> only true rock bar <strong>in</strong><br />
Prague and it’s rougher than<br />
<strong>the</strong> dodgy transport back<br />
<strong>in</strong> Maria Alm. With two bars<br />
pip<strong>in</strong>g out <strong>the</strong> liquids,<br />
you’ll never have to wait<br />
more than a m<strong>in</strong>ute for a<br />
dr<strong>in</strong>k and <strong>the</strong> entire <strong>in</strong>terior<br />
is dedicated to motorcycle<br />
history and features an<br />
awesome Jack Daniel’s Bar.<br />
day n<strong>in</strong>e –<br />
bamberg<br />
This traditional small town<br />
has a real gothic vibe to it,<br />
I half expected to bump <strong>in</strong>to<br />
<strong>the</strong> cast out of Twilight.<br />
But don’t let <strong>the</strong> lack of hot<br />
vampires disappo<strong>in</strong>t you;<br />
Bamberg is also famous for<br />
hav<strong>in</strong>g <strong>the</strong> world’s largest<br />
amount of breweries per<br />
capita, and that’s one hell of<br />
a lot of beer. If you’re feel<strong>in</strong>g<br />
brave, make sure you try<br />
<strong>the</strong>ir famous smoked beer, a<br />
dark ale that tastes<br />
suspiciously like <strong>the</strong> result of<br />
smoked pork and a blender.<br />
But hey, you haven’t lived<br />
until you’ve tried everyth<strong>in</strong>g<br />
(at least) once.<br />
After a few smoked beers,<br />
<strong>the</strong> German pubs were<br />
prov<strong>in</strong>g to be too much, and<br />
so <strong>the</strong> tour moved on to<br />
booze houses that were<br />
more Irish than<br />
a Leprechaun bath<strong>in</strong>g <strong>in</strong> a<br />
tub of Gu<strong>in</strong>ness.<br />
day ten –<br />
bamberg<br />
If you’re yet to buy a round<br />
on your trip, save it for<br />
Bamberg. There’s a<br />
Mexican jo<strong>in</strong>t here that<br />
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hot girls, cold beers and, er, nice<br />
ca<strong>the</strong>drals. What more could a fella<br />
ask for?<br />
dishes up beers for only<br />
one Euro all night long.<br />
Don’t be fooled by <strong>the</strong><br />
peaceful ambiance of<br />
Bamberg. In this small town<br />
noth<strong>in</strong>g is quite what it<br />
seems. This seem<strong>in</strong>gly tame<br />
Mexican restaurant is not a<br />
venue anyone <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong>ir right<br />
m<strong>in</strong>d would want to just<br />
walk past. Once it hits<br />
nightfall, <strong>the</strong> house music<br />
starts pump<strong>in</strong>g and <strong>the</strong><br />
locals start roll<strong>in</strong>g <strong>in</strong>.<br />
I was amazed when <strong>the</strong><br />
friendly staff started clear<strong>in</strong>g<br />
<strong>the</strong> tables for everyone to<br />
dance on. Everyone on tour<br />
was completely baffled by<br />
<strong>the</strong> sudden crazy<br />
atmosphere and dance floor<br />
that you could barely<br />
squeeze through, but no one<br />
was compla<strong>in</strong><strong>in</strong>g. This was<br />
one party that everyone was<br />
glad didn’t stop until <strong>the</strong><br />
early hours of <strong>the</strong> morn<strong>in</strong>g.<br />
day eleven –<br />
dusseldorf<br />
Roll<strong>in</strong>g <strong>in</strong>to <strong>the</strong> last city on<br />
tour, I was pretty excited. All<br />
I knew was that Dusseldorf<br />
was home to <strong>the</strong> world’s<br />
longest bar, boast<strong>in</strong>g over<br />
360 pubs with<strong>in</strong> its t<strong>in</strong>y old<br />
town square. With pubs and<br />
bars crank<strong>in</strong>g everyth<strong>in</strong>g<br />
from live-rock music to bass<br />
pump<strong>in</strong>g discos, this wild<br />
town had dr<strong>in</strong>k<strong>in</strong>g holes that<br />
catered to just about<br />
everyone’s preferences. In<br />
fact you could even say that<br />
<strong>the</strong> town square from endto-end,<br />
was just one massive<br />
orgy of pub crawl<strong>in</strong>g heaven.<br />
Glad that every pub was<br />
with<strong>in</strong> stagger<strong>in</strong>g distance<br />
of one o<strong>the</strong>r, <strong>the</strong> tour group<br />
had no problem ventur<strong>in</strong>g<br />
from pub to pub.<br />
And on a completely<br />
different note, did I mention<br />
that <strong>the</strong> girls here are more<br />
smok<strong>in</strong>g hot than <strong>the</strong> porkflavoured<br />
ale <strong>in</strong> Bamberg?<br />
Maybe that expla<strong>in</strong>s why<br />
a third of <strong>the</strong> bars here are<br />
conveniently equipped with<br />
stripper poles. Our tour<br />
group of 25 absolutely<br />
dom<strong>in</strong>ated every bar it<br />
entered, with one pub’s<br />
house band even<br />
respond<strong>in</strong>g to our<br />
“AC/DC” chants with <strong>the</strong><br />
r<strong>in</strong>g<strong>in</strong>g of Hell’s Bells.<br />
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day twelve –<br />
<strong>the</strong> end is nigh<br />
By time we’d been through<br />
<strong>the</strong> last dest<strong>in</strong>ation of <strong>the</strong><br />
tour I began to understand<br />
what <strong>the</strong> tour it<strong>in</strong>erary had<br />
meant when I read “Go big<br />
or go home”. It wasn’t about<br />
<strong>the</strong> endless amounts of bars<br />
visited or how much beer<br />
you could dr<strong>in</strong>k. It was about<br />
all those golden moments <strong>in</strong><br />
between. It was about <strong>the</strong><br />
time spent sitt<strong>in</strong>g on a<br />
rooftop, dr<strong>in</strong>k<strong>in</strong>g beers and<br />
tell<strong>in</strong>g jokes with your mates,<br />
whilst overlook<strong>in</strong>g <strong>the</strong> most<br />
breathtak<strong>in</strong>g view of <strong>the</strong><br />
Austrian Alps. It was about<br />
<strong>the</strong> time all <strong>the</strong> girls got up<br />
on stage <strong>in</strong> Dusseldorf to<br />
s<strong>in</strong>g AC/DC’s<br />
Thunderstruck. It was about<br />
all <strong>the</strong> little moments shared,<br />
that made <strong>the</strong> whole tour<br />
one big, amaz<strong>in</strong>g experience,<br />
with life-long friendships<br />
made that were even bigger.<br />
Reckon you can handle it?<br />
VisitOktoberfest<strong>Pub</strong><strong>Crawl</strong>.<br />
com for details of <strong>the</strong><br />
2011 <strong>Thirsty</strong> <strong>Swagman</strong><br />
tour. The weak need not<br />
apply.<br />
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