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Words & photos: tash marti<br />

p u b c r a w l<br />

does<br />

<strong>the</strong> biggest<br />

pub crawl<br />

<strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> world<br />

12 nights, five dest<strong>in</strong>ations, one hell of a party<br />

E<br />

VER<br />

wanted to<br />

check out<br />

<strong>the</strong> f<strong>in</strong>est<br />

sights of<br />

Europe? In<br />

October, <strong>FHM</strong> chick Tash<br />

Marti, got to do just that,<br />

through <strong>the</strong> bottom of her<br />

beer glass. Keep<strong>in</strong>g a dayby-day<br />

diary, Tash, travelled<br />

through Europe from bar to<br />

bar, on one seriously boozy<br />

session that she would never<br />

forget. Even if she does only<br />

remember half of it. We’re<br />

just glad she kept a diary.<br />

day one – let’s<br />

get this party<br />

started!<br />

After a full day spent<br />

travell<strong>in</strong>g across <strong>the</strong> globe, I<br />

roll <strong>in</strong>to my hotel, relieved<br />

that it didn’t smell anyth<strong>in</strong>g<br />

like <strong>the</strong> airplane, a tasteful<br />

comb<strong>in</strong>ation of stale coffee,<br />

peanuts and strange body<br />

odours. I was jetlagged and<br />

ready to hit <strong>the</strong> sack when<br />

my phone rang. I heard a<br />

very energetic sound<strong>in</strong>g<br />

tour guide on <strong>the</strong> o<strong>the</strong>r l<strong>in</strong>e,<br />

tell<strong>in</strong>g me that rest is for <strong>the</strong><br />

weak and it was time to get<br />

<strong>the</strong> party started.<br />

Stepp<strong>in</strong>g <strong>in</strong>to Oktoberfest<br />

I realised that I had highly<br />

underestimated <strong>the</strong> sheer<br />

size and atmosphere of <strong>the</strong><br />

whole event. I don’t th<strong>in</strong>k<br />

I’ve ever seen that many hot<br />

dogs and pretzels <strong>in</strong> my life.<br />

There were stalls and rides<br />

as far as <strong>the</strong> eye could see,<br />

and <strong>the</strong> beer tents were<br />

huge, fitt<strong>in</strong>g 10, 000 pissed<br />

punters <strong>in</strong> each tent.<br />

As I walked <strong>in</strong>to <strong>the</strong> first<br />

tent, I thought to myself.<br />

‘Okay Tash…6.3 million<br />

dr<strong>in</strong>kers, 6.7 million litres of<br />

beer. Time to dr<strong>in</strong>k your<br />

Malaysia proud!’<br />

day two<br />

Second day <strong>in</strong>to <strong>the</strong> tour<br />

and <strong>the</strong> hangovers had<br />

already begun. At<br />

breakfast, I couldn’t count a<br />

s<strong>in</strong>gle person on tour that<br />

morn<strong>in</strong>g that didn’t have<br />

that awkward expression<br />

that shouts “I have to spend<br />

<strong>the</strong> next 12 days with a<br />

bunch of randoms and I<br />

can’t even remember what I<br />

did last night!”. Luckily, by<br />

<strong>the</strong> looks of th<strong>in</strong>gs,<br />

everyone had got just as<br />

written off as each o<strong>the</strong>r,<br />

so I put my game face on,<br />

fuelled up on breakfast and<br />

headed straight back to<br />

those beer tents.<br />

The Germans have<br />

def<strong>in</strong>itely got <strong>the</strong>ir priorities<br />

<strong>in</strong> order: almost every chick<br />

(<strong>in</strong>clud<strong>in</strong>g <strong>the</strong> hot bar<br />

maids) are dressed <strong>in</strong><br />

traditional Bavarian dirndls,<br />

a flatter<strong>in</strong>g outfit that you’ll<br />

def<strong>in</strong>itely want to raise your<br />

ste<strong>in</strong> to. The beer tents<br />

open at 10am and close<br />

at 10pm, giv<strong>in</strong>g a full 12<br />

hour work-out of spill<strong>in</strong>g<br />

your ste<strong>in</strong> on happy party<br />

goers from all over <strong>the</strong><br />

globe. It’s totally chaotic,<br />

which is not surpris<strong>in</strong>g<br />

see<strong>in</strong>g as Oktoberfest<br />

dishes out enough beer to<br />

fill six Olympic size<br />

swimm<strong>in</strong>g pools!<br />

After five hours of lift<strong>in</strong>g<br />

ste<strong>in</strong>s as big as my head<br />

and s<strong>in</strong>g<strong>in</strong>g along to an old<br />

German Brass Band belt<strong>in</strong>g<br />

out Highway to Hell,<br />

I decided I needed some<br />

fresh air, and what better<br />

way to get fresh air than<br />

fly<strong>in</strong>g up and down<br />

rollercoasters at 85km<br />

an hour? With my new<br />

addition of liquid courage,<br />

every massive ride seemed<br />

like a small obstacle <strong>in</strong> my<br />

adventures. I even took my<br />

chances at a merry-goround<br />

which had a bar and<br />

one super-hot bar maid <strong>in</strong><br />

<strong>the</strong> middle. One day, all<br />

merry-go-rounds will be<br />

made this way.<br />

day three<br />

After two days of <strong>in</strong>tensive<br />

dr<strong>in</strong>k<strong>in</strong>g, fast rides, ample<br />

hotties <strong>in</strong> dirdnls and loud<br />

brass bands, I was<br />

wonder<strong>in</strong>g if <strong>the</strong> next town<br />

we arrived <strong>in</strong> was a joke.<br />

We were about to<br />

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01/11 105


“Dusseldorf is<br />

home to <strong>the</strong><br />

world’s longest<br />

bar, and <strong>the</strong> place<br />

boasts 360 pubs<br />

<strong>in</strong> it’s t<strong>in</strong>y city<br />

square”<br />

spend <strong>the</strong> next three days <strong>in</strong><br />

Maria Alm, a t<strong>in</strong>y town <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />

middle of <strong>the</strong> Austrian Alps.<br />

With three pubs and<br />

population of 2000, it was<br />

certa<strong>in</strong>ly <strong>the</strong> most unlikely<br />

dest<strong>in</strong>ation for <strong>the</strong> hard-core<br />

pub tour we were cruis<strong>in</strong>g<br />

on. But that night quality<br />

soon overrode quantity<br />

when we started dr<strong>in</strong>k<strong>in</strong>g<br />

from roof-based wooden<br />

wagon wheels that<br />

dispensed different flavours<br />

of schnapps straight <strong>in</strong>to<br />

your mouth as it sp<strong>in</strong>s.<br />

day four<br />

Maria Alm’s picturesque<br />

streets, timbered houses and<br />

gentle little river w<strong>in</strong>d<strong>in</strong>g<br />

through <strong>the</strong> centre def<strong>in</strong>itely<br />

made it seem like a set out of<br />

Lord of <strong>the</strong> R<strong>in</strong>gs. Stepp<strong>in</strong>g<br />

out of <strong>the</strong> hotel, I looked<br />

across <strong>the</strong> village and<br />

wondered if I would meet any<br />

hobbits that day. The town<br />

sure was t<strong>in</strong>y but after an<br />

amaz<strong>in</strong>g night I began to<br />

have a new appreciation for<br />

it…even <strong>in</strong> my <strong>in</strong>credibly<br />

hung over state.<br />

With <strong>the</strong> Alps tower<strong>in</strong>g <strong>in</strong><br />

every direction, this town was<br />

easier on <strong>the</strong> eye than a<br />

Hannah Tan cover shoot. One<br />

pub we drank at that day<br />

was tucked away half way up<br />

<strong>the</strong> Alps, and <strong>the</strong> dr<strong>in</strong>k<strong>in</strong>g<br />

area consisted of a wooden<br />

balcony that had a clear view<br />

of <strong>the</strong> whole town. It was<br />

difficult to decide whe<strong>the</strong>r<br />

I liked this dr<strong>in</strong>k<strong>in</strong>g hole<br />

better than <strong>the</strong> legendary<br />

Dengl Alm down <strong>the</strong> road<br />

that served hot shots of<br />

schnapps and dr<strong>in</strong>ks by <strong>the</strong><br />

metre, wooden racks of 10 of<br />

your favourite dr<strong>in</strong>ks at<br />

a time! Hmm…maybe I’ll<br />

decide over ano<strong>the</strong>r beer.<br />

day five<br />

It would seem that <strong>in</strong> this<br />

wild town, <strong>the</strong>re’s people just<br />

wait<strong>in</strong>g to give you shots of<br />

schnapps everywhere you<br />

go. 10am and rock<strong>in</strong>g up at<br />

a rustic old barn on <strong>the</strong><br />

outskirts <strong>the</strong> town, <strong>the</strong>re was<br />

a hot Austrian chick<br />

stand<strong>in</strong>g with a tray of<br />

schnapps for everyone on<br />

tour to enjoy. We called it <strong>the</strong><br />

“Austrian breakfast for<br />

champions”, and downed<br />

<strong>the</strong>m two at a time.<br />

We were <strong>the</strong>n told we<br />

were about to trek up<br />

a mounta<strong>in</strong> to dr<strong>in</strong>k at<br />

4,000ft above sea level.<br />

I was dread<strong>in</strong>g <strong>the</strong><br />

No prizes for <strong>the</strong> first<br />

person to look at <strong>the</strong><br />

large beer glasses,<br />

<strong>the</strong>n <strong>the</strong> buxom<br />

beauties, before<br />

declar<strong>in</strong>g “Nice jugs!’<br />

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comb<strong>in</strong>ation of schnapps<br />

and a long hike up until <strong>the</strong><br />

transport arrived. It was <strong>the</strong>n<br />

I began to th<strong>in</strong>k that maybe<br />

a relax<strong>in</strong>g walk wasn’t such<br />

a bad idea. Transport up <strong>the</strong><br />

Austrian Alps was far<br />

different to <strong>the</strong> five-star<br />

coach we were roll<strong>in</strong>g <strong>in</strong><br />

earlier. Instead, we drove up<br />

<strong>the</strong> Alps on loosely-strungtoge<strong>the</strong>r<br />

farm equipment<br />

that had all <strong>the</strong> luxury and<br />

safety features of a homemade<br />

third world convertible.<br />

Safety first kids.<br />

4,000ft later and we were<br />

stepp<strong>in</strong>g on a private<br />

residence worth around<br />

RM25million. Alp<strong>in</strong>e booz<strong>in</strong>g<br />

has never been better as<br />

we sat on <strong>the</strong> roof dr<strong>in</strong>k<strong>in</strong>g<br />

and soak<strong>in</strong>g up <strong>the</strong> warm<br />

sun and crispy fresh air<br />

that made our cold beers<br />

taste that much better.<br />

The view was absolutely<br />

breathtak<strong>in</strong>g, and well worth<br />

<strong>the</strong> potentially life<br />

threaten<strong>in</strong>g ride up. All that<br />

was miss<strong>in</strong>g was a barbecue<br />

and some good music.<br />

Maybe next year.


day six<br />

A few days of dr<strong>in</strong>k<strong>in</strong>g with<br />

<strong>the</strong> locals <strong>in</strong> Maria Alm and<br />

we were back off to <strong>the</strong> big<br />

city. Thankful that we were<br />

back to travell<strong>in</strong>g on <strong>the</strong><br />

five-star coach <strong>the</strong> crew<br />

jumped on and headed<br />

straight to <strong>the</strong> bar at <strong>the</strong><br />

back. Seven hours’ worth of<br />

beers later and<br />

we were jump<strong>in</strong>g off at<br />

Europe’s party capital,<br />

Prague <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> Czech<br />

Republic, where <strong>the</strong><br />

Abs<strong>in</strong><strong>the</strong> is almost as<br />

abundant as water.<br />

Dr<strong>in</strong>k<strong>in</strong>g all day by bus<br />

seemed like a great idea at<br />

<strong>the</strong> time, but by night time,<br />

we were all completely<br />

goosed. The tour group met<br />

up <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> lobby, completely<br />

unprepared for night that<br />

was <strong>in</strong> store for us. I’m not<br />

sure if it was just an<br />

awesome night, or if it had<br />

someth<strong>in</strong>g to do with all <strong>the</strong><br />

complementary shots of<br />

Abs<strong>in</strong><strong>the</strong> we got at <strong>the</strong> first<br />

pub, but every dr<strong>in</strong>k<strong>in</strong>g jo<strong>in</strong>t<br />

along this pub tour was like<br />

a dream come true. One<br />

club that really stood out<br />

was seven storeys tall, with<br />

every floor packed full of<br />

bars, dance floors and<br />

Eastern European hotties.<br />

day seven<br />

Day seven and I was<br />

struggl<strong>in</strong>g. Although <strong>the</strong><br />

abs<strong>in</strong><strong>the</strong> is almost as<br />

abundant as water here –<br />

it certa<strong>in</strong>ly does not have<br />

<strong>the</strong> same hydrat<strong>in</strong>g effect.<br />

Claire, <strong>the</strong> bubbly 19 yearold<br />

girl I was tw<strong>in</strong> shar<strong>in</strong>g<br />

with woke me and I was<br />

devastated to hear that<br />

breakfast had just f<strong>in</strong>ished.<br />

It looked like we were<br />

go<strong>in</strong>g to have to step out<br />

<strong>in</strong>to <strong>the</strong> bl<strong>in</strong>d<strong>in</strong>g sunlight<br />

if we were go<strong>in</strong>g to have<br />

anyth<strong>in</strong>g to eat.<br />

On <strong>the</strong> journey to f<strong>in</strong>d <strong>the</strong><br />

best anti-hangover meal of<br />

all time, we passed at least<br />

five cas<strong>in</strong>os and about eight<br />

bars. The folks <strong>in</strong> Prague<br />

sure have <strong>the</strong>ir priorities<br />

right, it seemed that <strong>the</strong>re<br />

were cas<strong>in</strong>os and bars on<br />

just about every corner. We<br />

even stumbled past some<br />

<strong>in</strong>side <strong>the</strong> shopp<strong>in</strong>g centres.<br />

Just when I thought I’d<br />

seen it all and experienced<br />

every possible degree of<br />

hangover, we rocked up at<br />

pub called <strong>the</strong> Beer Factory.<br />

It was any beer lover’s<br />

heaven, with beer taps at<br />

every table, mak<strong>in</strong>g you your<br />

very own bartender. No time<br />

wasted stand<strong>in</strong>g over a bar<br />

order<strong>in</strong>g dr<strong>in</strong>ks and<br />

absolutely no one to cut you<br />

off. If you head here though,<br />

you better make sure your<br />

dr<strong>in</strong>k<strong>in</strong>g stam<strong>in</strong>a is up to<br />

scratch, because each<br />

table’s progress is displayed<br />

on several big screens<br />

around <strong>the</strong> pub – list<strong>in</strong>g<br />

every table’s consumption<br />

from hardest to weakest.<br />

Survival Tip #1:<br />

Protect your tap from<br />

thiev<strong>in</strong>g mates.<br />

day eight<br />

Prague sure is one big<br />

city to handle. It was my<br />

third day here and I hadn’t<br />

made it to a s<strong>in</strong>gle<br />

breakfast. No thanks to <strong>the</strong><br />

rag<strong>in</strong>g hangovers that<br />

seemed to come hand <strong>in</strong><br />

hand with Prague.<br />

Utterly exhausted by<br />

Prague’s explosive night life,<br />

my mate and I decided to<br />

venture out dur<strong>in</strong>g <strong>the</strong> day<br />

and see what (o<strong>the</strong>r than<br />

great beer and ample<br />

abs<strong>in</strong><strong>the</strong>) <strong>the</strong> <strong>in</strong>credible city<br />

had to offer. Even with<br />

a throbb<strong>in</strong>g headache and<br />

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squ<strong>in</strong>ty eyes, Prague’s<br />

beautiful build<strong>in</strong>gs were<br />

breathtak<strong>in</strong>g. We even<br />

trekked as far as <strong>the</strong><br />

Prague castle, which is even<br />

older than Picasso’s mum<br />

and also one of <strong>the</strong> biggest<br />

castles <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> world. There<br />

was even a little bar just<br />

outside <strong>the</strong> castle that<br />

served refresh<strong>in</strong>g beers for<br />

those who preferred<br />

sightsee<strong>in</strong>g through <strong>the</strong><br />

bottom of <strong>the</strong>ir glasses.<br />

That night <strong>the</strong> tour was<br />

taken to what <strong>the</strong> tour guide<br />

referred to as <strong>the</strong> “coolest<br />

Hell on Earth”. Harley’s Bar<br />

is <strong>the</strong> only true rock bar <strong>in</strong><br />

Prague and it’s rougher than<br />

<strong>the</strong> dodgy transport back<br />

<strong>in</strong> Maria Alm. With two bars<br />

pip<strong>in</strong>g out <strong>the</strong> liquids,<br />

you’ll never have to wait<br />

more than a m<strong>in</strong>ute for a<br />

dr<strong>in</strong>k and <strong>the</strong> entire <strong>in</strong>terior<br />

is dedicated to motorcycle<br />

history and features an<br />

awesome Jack Daniel’s Bar.<br />

day n<strong>in</strong>e –<br />

bamberg<br />

This traditional small town<br />

has a real gothic vibe to it,<br />

I half expected to bump <strong>in</strong>to<br />

<strong>the</strong> cast out of Twilight.<br />

But don’t let <strong>the</strong> lack of hot<br />

vampires disappo<strong>in</strong>t you;<br />

Bamberg is also famous for<br />

hav<strong>in</strong>g <strong>the</strong> world’s largest<br />

amount of breweries per<br />

capita, and that’s one hell of<br />

a lot of beer. If you’re feel<strong>in</strong>g<br />

brave, make sure you try<br />

<strong>the</strong>ir famous smoked beer, a<br />

dark ale that tastes<br />

suspiciously like <strong>the</strong> result of<br />

smoked pork and a blender.<br />

But hey, you haven’t lived<br />

until you’ve tried everyth<strong>in</strong>g<br />

(at least) once.<br />

After a few smoked beers,<br />

<strong>the</strong> German pubs were<br />

prov<strong>in</strong>g to be too much, and<br />

so <strong>the</strong> tour moved on to<br />

booze houses that were<br />

more Irish than<br />

a Leprechaun bath<strong>in</strong>g <strong>in</strong> a<br />

tub of Gu<strong>in</strong>ness.<br />

day ten –<br />

bamberg<br />

If you’re yet to buy a round<br />

on your trip, save it for<br />

Bamberg. There’s a<br />

Mexican jo<strong>in</strong>t here that<br />

fhm.com.my<br />

hot girls, cold beers and, er, nice<br />

ca<strong>the</strong>drals. What more could a fella<br />

ask for?<br />

dishes up beers for only<br />

one Euro all night long.<br />

Don’t be fooled by <strong>the</strong><br />

peaceful ambiance of<br />

Bamberg. In this small town<br />

noth<strong>in</strong>g is quite what it<br />

seems. This seem<strong>in</strong>gly tame<br />

Mexican restaurant is not a<br />

venue anyone <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong>ir right<br />

m<strong>in</strong>d would want to just<br />

walk past. Once it hits<br />

nightfall, <strong>the</strong> house music<br />

starts pump<strong>in</strong>g and <strong>the</strong><br />

locals start roll<strong>in</strong>g <strong>in</strong>.<br />

I was amazed when <strong>the</strong><br />

friendly staff started clear<strong>in</strong>g<br />

<strong>the</strong> tables for everyone to<br />

dance on. Everyone on tour<br />

was completely baffled by<br />

<strong>the</strong> sudden crazy<br />

atmosphere and dance floor<br />

that you could barely<br />

squeeze through, but no one<br />

was compla<strong>in</strong><strong>in</strong>g. This was<br />

one party that everyone was<br />

glad didn’t stop until <strong>the</strong><br />

early hours of <strong>the</strong> morn<strong>in</strong>g.<br />

day eleven –<br />

dusseldorf<br />

Roll<strong>in</strong>g <strong>in</strong>to <strong>the</strong> last city on<br />

tour, I was pretty excited. All<br />

I knew was that Dusseldorf<br />

was home to <strong>the</strong> world’s<br />

longest bar, boast<strong>in</strong>g over<br />

360 pubs with<strong>in</strong> its t<strong>in</strong>y old<br />

town square. With pubs and<br />

bars crank<strong>in</strong>g everyth<strong>in</strong>g<br />

from live-rock music to bass<br />

pump<strong>in</strong>g discos, this wild<br />

town had dr<strong>in</strong>k<strong>in</strong>g holes that<br />

catered to just about<br />

everyone’s preferences. In<br />

fact you could even say that<br />

<strong>the</strong> town square from endto-end,<br />

was just one massive<br />

orgy of pub crawl<strong>in</strong>g heaven.<br />

Glad that every pub was<br />

with<strong>in</strong> stagger<strong>in</strong>g distance<br />

of one o<strong>the</strong>r, <strong>the</strong> tour group<br />

had no problem ventur<strong>in</strong>g<br />

from pub to pub.<br />

And on a completely<br />

different note, did I mention<br />

that <strong>the</strong> girls here are more<br />

smok<strong>in</strong>g hot than <strong>the</strong> porkflavoured<br />

ale <strong>in</strong> Bamberg?<br />

Maybe that expla<strong>in</strong>s why<br />

a third of <strong>the</strong> bars here are<br />

conveniently equipped with<br />

stripper poles. Our tour<br />

group of 25 absolutely<br />

dom<strong>in</strong>ated every bar it<br />

entered, with one pub’s<br />

house band even<br />

respond<strong>in</strong>g to our<br />

“AC/DC” chants with <strong>the</strong><br />

r<strong>in</strong>g<strong>in</strong>g of Hell’s Bells.<br />

p u b c r a w l<br />

day twelve –<br />

<strong>the</strong> end is nigh<br />

By time we’d been through<br />

<strong>the</strong> last dest<strong>in</strong>ation of <strong>the</strong><br />

tour I began to understand<br />

what <strong>the</strong> tour it<strong>in</strong>erary had<br />

meant when I read “Go big<br />

or go home”. It wasn’t about<br />

<strong>the</strong> endless amounts of bars<br />

visited or how much beer<br />

you could dr<strong>in</strong>k. It was about<br />

all those golden moments <strong>in</strong><br />

between. It was about <strong>the</strong><br />

time spent sitt<strong>in</strong>g on a<br />

rooftop, dr<strong>in</strong>k<strong>in</strong>g beers and<br />

tell<strong>in</strong>g jokes with your mates,<br />

whilst overlook<strong>in</strong>g <strong>the</strong> most<br />

breathtak<strong>in</strong>g view of <strong>the</strong><br />

Austrian Alps. It was about<br />

<strong>the</strong> time all <strong>the</strong> girls got up<br />

on stage <strong>in</strong> Dusseldorf to<br />

s<strong>in</strong>g AC/DC’s<br />

Thunderstruck. It was about<br />

all <strong>the</strong> little moments shared,<br />

that made <strong>the</strong> whole tour<br />

one big, amaz<strong>in</strong>g experience,<br />

with life-long friendships<br />

made that were even bigger.<br />

Reckon you can handle it?<br />

VisitOktoberfest<strong>Pub</strong><strong>Crawl</strong>.<br />

com for details of <strong>the</strong><br />

2011 <strong>Thirsty</strong> <strong>Swagman</strong><br />

tour. The weak need not<br />

apply.<br />

01/11 105

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