Mini-Guide - In Your Pocket

10 - 11.06. Bol: Dalmatian Klapa from the Omiš
Festival, Teatrin Summer Stage
18.06 - 11.09. Supetar: Supetar Summer
Festival
18 - 24.06. Sutivan: Bocce tournament
20.06. Bol: Classical music concert (at the
small church)
24.06. Sutivan: St John’s Church, local reli-
gious festival
25 - 30.06.Bol: Bol Czech Cultural Festival
(Teatrin, Dom kulture Gallery)
28 - 29.06. Supetar: St Peter and St Paul, local
religious festival
01 - 03.07. Bol: Fashion.hr show, Zlatni rat
beach
02.07. Mirca: Our Lady of Mirca, local religious
festival
05 - 09.07. Supetar: 3rd Supetar Super
Film Festival, contemporary documentary film
festival
08 - 09.07. Sutivan: Dvornik Festival
10 - 17.07. Sutivan: Vanka Regule outdoor
adventure sports & film festival
16.07. Milna and Postira: Our Lady of Carmel,
local religious festivals
22 - 23.07. Supetar: Guitar Weekend, Supetar
Parish Church and various open air locations
24.07. Sutivan: Fisherman’s Festival
27 - 29.07. Bol: Pula Film Festival, Bol Cinema
29.07. Milna: “Pasara” race (rowing boats),
starts at 18:00
30.07. Milna: “Potezanje Mrduje” in the waters
around Mrduje island at 18:00 a contest takes
place to answer the question “Who does Mrduje
island belong to - the people of Brač or Šolta?”
30.07. Postira: A Little Night Regatta
30.07. Supetar: Supetar Summer Carnival
31.07 - 04.08. Bol: Supertoon - Festival of
Animated Film, Cinema Bol, Teatrin Summer
Stage, Dom kulture Gallery
03.08. Bol: Gloria Gaynor and Ivo Gamulin
Gianni, Bluesun Hotel Elaphusa
03 - 05.08. Milna: International viola Competi-
tion ‘Viola da Bracchia’
05.08. Bol: Fair day of Bol
06.08. Supetar: Dalmatian Klapa
07.08. Mirca: Traditional exhibition of art from
Mirca in Mutni kali
11.08. Supetar: VO’ I ‘SA - Days of Urban
Music
11 - 14.08. Bol: Small Theatre Festival, Teatrin
Summer Stage
15.08. Splitska: Feast of the Assumption, local
religious festival
16.08. Sutivan: St Rocco
16.08. Dol: Hrapačuša Night
18.08. Škrip: St Helena of the Cross, local
religious festival
20 - 30.08. Bol: Jazz School
26.08. Škrip: ‘Čakavske riči’ Festival - Brač’s
comedy night
07.09. Supetar: Island Festival - exhibition of
chapels and belltowers
24.09. Milna: 80th Mrduja Regatta
03 - 06.10. Bol: Jazz festival, Hotel Elaphusa
RESTAURANTS RESTAURANTS
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RESTAURANTS
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RESTAURANTS
WHAT TO SEE WHAT TO SEE WHAT TO SEE
Essential Brač
Blaca tel. (+385-) 091 516 46
71 / 091 512 93 12. Blaca is
perhaps the most stunning sight on
the Brač, and is certainly among the
most incredible cultural monuments
on the Adriatic. This inhospitable
rocky gorge became the home of
an order of Glagolitic monks who
nurtured the Croatian language using
the oldest Slavic alphabet. They left
the Republic of Poljica south of Split
following the Ottoman invasion of
the mainland. In 1550, the Brač authorities allotted them land in the Blaca canyon
some 3km from the coast. The refugees initially settled in one of the many caves
to be found in this karst landscape.
Slowly but surely, the monks improved their quarters and started to use the plenti-
ful rock to construct buildings. The first church, consecrated to the Assumption
of Mary, was completed in 1614. Eventually a monastery, living quarters and farm
buildings grew up. This complex, built flush against the sheer rock and totally in
harmony with its surroundings, is absolutely breathtaking to behold.
The diligence of the monks was boundless. The Blaca buildings were destroyed
several times over by fire and flood, but the monks each time simply made sure
their next rendering was better than the last. They improved public roads and
regulated watercourses to tame the seasonal floods. Their diligence in the fields,
coaxing life out of the stone, resulted in an extensive and thriving farmstead with
vineyards and olive groves, orchards and vegetable gardens. To sustain this miracle
of agriculture the brothers built greenhouses and an irrigation system for watering
crops and animals. They developed unique stone beehives which still stand today
in their hundreds, surrounded by rosemary plants to a plentiful supply of aromatic
honey every year.
The rights and responsibilities of the members of the community were enshrined in
1570 in the regulations of the first Agricultural Co-operative, based on the principles
of voluntary work, communal ownership and profit-sharing. All work, all transac-
tions and all business connections were painstakingly documented, providing a
valuable collection of historical and meteorological records. In the 18th century
the hermitage obtained its first boats and developed trade links throughout the
Mediterranean. You can see a figurehead from one of Blaca’s cargo ships in Brač’s
Native Museum, which famously won a David and Goliath battle with an English
corvette in Split harbour. Goods were not sold for money but exchanged for items
needed by the community such as books and furniture.
Blaca has a beautiful library with
almost 8 000 books, a printing press
and a music room with a piano that
was carried here on foot. You can
look round the simple but elegantly
furnished rooms where the brothers
lived and worked, all preserved as
an in situ museum. An observatory
with a research library and the third
most powerful telescope in Croatia
is listed as a cultural monument.
Blaca also played a vital part in the
community with its school, which
managed to function even through the years when communism threatened the
existence of religious communities. Due to the monastery’s isolated position, in
cold weather the pupils were asked to bring log for the fire every day in return for
their schooling.
In the oldest building of the complex, right next to the cliff by the church is the heart
of the monastery, the kitchen. The fire in the hearth was kept burning throughout
the year and, according to local custom, only put out at Easter when the fireplace
was cleaned out blessed. This communal centre of brotherhood is where the
events of the day were discussed over a well-earned meal.
The last Blaca friar died in 1963, ending this miraculous story that lasted for
four centuries. In 2007, the complex was entered on the tentative list of UNESCO
monuments of cultural heritage. The hermitage remains very close to peoples’
hearts, with a pilgrimage taking place every year on the first Saturday after the
Feast of the Assumption. This is a wonderful place to visit for all the reasons
we’ve mentioned, but perhaps the most important one is that this is a place that
puts in focus the power of human endeavour, and a place of peace and hope that
strengthens the spirit.
How to get here: trips are organised from Bol approaching Blaca bay from the sea,
from where you have a 25 minute walk. From Nerežišća it’s a 10 minute drive to
Dragovode followed by a 30 minute walk. Q Since the Blaca hermitage was closed
last year due to emergency repair works, this year it will be open to visitors all year
as of 15 May. Please note that visitors are required to call ahead to arrange their
visit. Tickets cost 30kn adults, 20kn per head for groups and 10kn for children.
The Dragon’s Cave (Zmajeva špilja) A spec-
tacular natural, cultural and spiritual monument, in
the 15th century this cave was became a home and
a place of worship complete with awe-inspiring reliefs
carved into the rock.
The steep south-facing karst hills close to Bol are pitted
with caves which, in the Middle Ages, provided shelter
for refugees from mainland convents and monasteries
who fled from the invading Ottoman armies. Since these
were eremitic orders living an ascetic life of solitary
prayer, these isolated caves, apart from providing a
safe hiding place, were a logical choice for habitation.
However, the friars and nuns worked hard at making
their abodes fitting places for service to God, and thus in this 20 metre long cave
four halls were created that comprised a monastery and church. A chapel and an
altar were carved into the rock, there are water cisterns, graves and niches for
solitary prayer and the walls were decorated with fabulous carvings.
So bold, so powerful and well-executed are these carvings that they are clearly the
work of a master stonemason. They depict scenes from the New Testament Book
of Revelation, also known as the Apocalypse. The Apocalypse is an allegory of the
struggle between good and evil played out by characters such as multi-headed
beasts, a dragon representing Satan and the heroic Lamb. There are also carved
symbols such as a pelican - a symbol of Christian self-sacrifice, as well as angels
and lunar motifs drawing on Slav mythology. By portraying these scenes the
sculptor spoke of the suffering of Christians throughout history with the benefit of
ample personal experience.
Visiting this cave is a powerful experi-
ence. It’s a steep one-hour hike from
Murvica, near Bol. You should allow four
hours for the round trip, as there are
abandoned chapels and monasteries
along the way which are worth looking
round. You need a sturdy pair of train-
ers, plenty of water and adequate sun
protection in hot weather. An English-
and German-speaking guide takes up
groups once a day, since the walk is
quite demanding. Guided visits are best
arranged at least 24 hours in advance, and cost 50kn per person, or by agreement
for groups. Call Zoran on 091 514 97 87.
Vidova gora At 778m, Vidova gora is the highest peak in Adriatic islands. It broods
over Bol, gathering thunderclouds, a mystical place since time immemorial. The
peak was dedicated in pagan times to the Slavic god of light, Svevid, a deity of war,
fertility and abundance. In Christian times it was named after St Vitus (Sveti Vid),
who among other things is said to guard against lightning strikes, which makes
perfect sense on this lonely hilltop. At the top of the peak you can see the remains
of an Illyrian fortress and an early Croatian chapel consecrated to St Vitus.
On a clear day a hike to the peak will re-
ward you with a thunderbolt of a different
kind: an incredible view. Bol is laid out
like Lego at your feet, with the Zlatni rat
beach clearly in view. The green bird-like
shape of Hvar island lies calmly in the
brilliant blue sea, while in the opposite
direction you can see the peaks of the
Dinaric Alps on the mainland.
Vidova gora is an easy one-hour hike
from Bol, he best maintained trail start-
ing from the Loggia. You can also reach the peak from the other side from the main
road between Nerežišća and Pražnica. Either way, there are many points of interest
on the route, and your way is scented by wild sage, rosemary and other aromatic
herbs. At the top there’s a konoba serving food and drink.
The best time to hike is in spring or autumn, when the sun is not too strong, or in
the early morning before the heat of the day. It is possible to reach the peak by
road, but if you are blessed with a full set of moving legs, we urge you to work up a
good appetite and take the walk, it’s an invigorating experience in itself.
Churches
Church of Our Lady of Carmel (Crkva Gospe od Karmela) Nerežišća
bb, Nerežišća. Its fitting that Nerežišća, once the capital of Brač, should have the
most impressive church on the island. The Church of Our Lady of Carmel dates
from the 13th century but was enlarged over the centuries and took on its pres-
ent Baroque appearance in the 18th century. It has a typical Dalmatian belfry.
The church stands on a fine square where public proclamations were once made
outside the Prince’s Palace, the centre of the island administration which no longer
stands. The church has eight altars. The main altar is made of marble and has a
fantastic medieval painting of Our Lady of the Rosary.
Church of Our Lady of the Annunciation (Crkva Gospe od Blagov-
ijesti) Milna bb, Milna, tel. (+385-21) 63 60 44. One of the loveliest Baroque
churches on Brač, Milna’s Church of Our Lady of the Annunciation has some beauti-
ful Venetian paintings from the first half of the 18th century and statuary by Brač
sculptor Ivan Rendić, including a stone statue of St Joseph on the main altar and
some cemetery sculpture: look out for the tombstone of S. Tomaš and the chapel
of the Mandinić family. Mass: 17:00, Sun 10:00.
Church of the Ascension of Mary (Crkva Uznesenja Marijina) Sutivan
bb, Sutivan, tel. (+385-21) 63 81 96. Sutivan takes its name from the town’s
patron saint St John (St Ivan). The village’s first parish church, dedicated to St John,
was built on the ruins of a 6th century basilica. A large new parish church was built
between 1576 and 1590 in a late Renaissance style, which with later adaptation
took on today’s Baroque character. Raised up on a low terrace, its harmonious
form and delicate belfry create a landmark on the western side of the harbour. The
village’s dead were buried in the church and churchyard until a cemetery was built
in the 19th century, but some of the gravestones still stand outside. The church
interior is notable for its Baroque elements and beautiful marble altars. The 17th
century altar painting of Our Lady of the Rosary is particularly worthy of note. Mass:
Sun 10:00. July, August 10:00, 19:00. Q July, August Open 08:00 - 22:00.
September - June Open by prior arrangement.
Parish Church of Christ the King (Crkva Krista Kralja) Trg Stjepana
Radića 7, Selce. The most modern church on the island, Selca’s parish church
of Christ the King was built between 1921 and 1955. The imposing church is
said by some to belong in a much larger and more modern setting, but the white
stone fits in with the dominant architecture of this harmonious little inland town
and is an awesome decoration. The church is beautiful inside, its stone walls left
unplastered, an oasis of quiet simplicity with decorative capitals and a wooden roof.
A statue of the Sacred Heart of Jesus behind main altar by Croatian sculptor Ivan
Meštrović is made from the cases of shells left behind from the Second World War,
thus creating an ode to peace from a means of destruction. The statue is echoed
on front of church in stone. There is also a beautiful statue of the Madonna and
Child. The walls of the church are lined with a fascinating display of architectural
designs and photos showing how the church was built. Mass: 08:30, Sun 10:30.
QOpen 08:00 - 20:00.
Parish Church of St Helena of the Cross (Crkva Sv.Jelene) Škrip, tel.
(+385-21) 63 27 00. Built in 1768 and completed in the early 19th century, this
attractive church is crafted entirely from smooth stone. Its harmonious simplicity is
preserved in its interior. The most valuable item inside the church is a rare example
of a beautiful gilded altar, unfortunately in dire need of restoration. There are two
beautiful paintings by Palma the Younger; two more were stolen in 1974 and have
never been found. The church’s consecration to St Helena speaks of a local legend
that the saint, the mother of Emperor Constantine I, was born here. Behind the
church is one of the oldest cemeteries on the island, rich in Roman remains and
with two chapels. Mass: Sun 09:30. Q If you would like to see inside the church,
please call the Native Museum on 64 63 25.
Parish Church of St John the Baptist (Župna crkva sv. Ivana
Krstitelja) Povlja. Povlja’s parish church is built next to the extensive ruins of a
large basilica from the 5th to 6th centuries. The basilica’s portal and apse with a
three-light window are some of the best-preserved remains from that period. The
basilica’s size suggests that this was an important religious centre not only for
Povlja and the island but possibly for the mainland too. It possessed an imposing
and rare octagonal font covered with a cupola, which along with the baptistry at the
Euphrasian Basilica in Poreč is the only preserved example of a 6th century covered
baptistry on the Eastern Adriatic. The baptistry was incorporated into the parish
church of St John the Baptist, and is venerated as the resting place of a saint, St
John of Povlja. In the churchyard, the remains of a Benedictine monastery can be
seen, together with a defensive tower which was added to protect the complex
from pirate attacks: the monastery was destroyed in 1145 by the fearsome pirates
from Omiš. Mass: Sun 11:00 except the last Sunday of the month 09:30.
The Church of St John and St Paul (Crkva sv. Ivana i Pavla) Ložišća
bb, Ložišća, tel. (+385-21) 63 60 44. This picturesque Baroque church was built
in 1820 in the midst of the steep cobbled streets and stone houses of Ložišća.
It is most famous for its ornate campanile, the design of famous Brač sculptor
Ivan Rendić, which was added in 1889. According to local sources, Rendić was
commissioned for this project by his sponsors, the Nazor family from Bobovišća
na moru. Apparently his payment was 24 bottles of fine prošek dessert wine as
drunk at the imperial court in Vienna.
Landmarks
Chapels of St George (Kapelice sv. Jurja) Brač is well known for its
multitude chapels and churches. What is less well known is that the chapels
dedicated to the island’s patron saint, St George, are connected visually; that is,
from any given chapel of St George, you can see the next one. We have yet to try, and
would love to hear from anyone who has and who can confirm that this is true!
Kogul - Cobble! In some of Brač’s seaside villages you might notice intricately-
laid cobbled streets. These cobbles are known in Croatian as kogule. Postira is
particularly renowned for its kogule: the street connecting the parish church with
the waterfront is the longest on the island which is paved in this way. It was laid
out in honour of the visit of Emperor Franz Joseph in 1875. The smooth, rounded
stones and ornate patterns have inspired many a photographer fascinated by the
play of light on the stones’ surface, creating sensuous effects.
Rock cake The karst landscape of
Brač is rich in fascinating geological
formations. One of the most stunning
is known as the “Kolač”, which is
the name of a ring-shaped type of
Dalmatian bread cake. Presumably
the rock was given this name as it
is about as hard as the cakes, which
have to be soaked in coffee before
eating otherwise they break your
teeth off. Seriously, it’s the shape
which gives the Kolač its name. It’s
made from dolomite, a softish rock related to limestone, and is formed from two
rocks leaning together and worn away by erosion and other factors until the giant
ring shape was formed. The Kolač is a two-hour round trip hike from Nerežišća
and is not too easy to find - be prepared to ask the way.
The catacombs in Sutivan’s cemetery
(Sutivanske katakombe) Su ti van’s
cemetery was built when new sanitary regulations
forbade burial within the town. A peaceful spot
was selected for the cemetery, overlooking
the sea and next to the chapel of St Rocco.
Since space was at a premium, underground
chambers were built with rows of spaces for
graves stacked one on top of another. One half
of the cemetery has regular graves covered with
stone slabs, while in the other half you’ll spot little
roofs with glass in them. Looking down, you can
see into the catacombs, where you might see
candles burning left by relatives. The entry to
the catacombs is through a tiny chapel at the
back of the cemetery.
The Chapel of St Peter and St Paul
(Crkvica sv. Petra i Pavla) Nerežišća. This
chapel, built around 1400, stands in the centre of one of Nerežišča’s three main
squares. A real curiosity: out of the chapel’s semicircular apse grows a pine tree,
giving the chapel the endearing air of a sprightly little chicken. The tree is small
enough, but has survived there for about a century - a kind of Dalmatian bonsai.
The Romanesque and Gothic chapel holds a fine altar relief of the Madonna and
Child in stone, the work of sculptor Nikola Lazanić.
The Petrinović family mausoleum (Mauzolej obitelji Petrinović)
Approaching Supetar from the sea, one of the first things you notice is an exotic,
luxurious building all in white, set amid the pine trees on a headland west of town.
Is it a palace? Is it a church? No, it’s the Petrinović family mausoleum. Although it
is a thing of beauty, a richly ornamented building with oriental elements, its story
leaves a bitter aftertaste with the people of Brač. Ivan Rendić, one of the leading
sculptors of the 19th century, had established a reputation as a leading sculptor
of cemetery statuary, headstones and mausoleums, especially in his home town,
Supetar. Knowing this, wealthy emigrant Frane Petrinović engaged the sculptor to
build his family mausoleum. Rendić duly began work. However, the sculptor was
approaching the end of his life, his powers were perhaps fading and other sculptors
were coming into fashion. Petrinović saw the massive mausoleum of the Račić family
in Cavtat by the master sculptor Ivan Meštrović, was impressed and cancelled his
WHAT TO SEE
order with Rendić. Meštrović refused to take the order, it seems out of respect for
the older sculptor. However, Meštrović’s contemporary Toma Rosandić of Split did
not turn the work down. Rendić was left destitute and ridiculed in his home town,
and died almost in poverty. Rosandić’s mausoleum, however, is quite spectacular,
and the well close by is also a powerful piece of work.
Galleries
Branislav Dešković Fine Arts Gallery (Galerija umjetnina Branislav
Dešković) Porat bolskih pomoraca bb, Bol, centar.za.kulturu.brac@st.t-
com.hr. This art gallery, housed in a 17th century Renaissance and Baroque palace
on the Bol waterfront, is named after sculptor Branislav Dešković (1883-1939) of
Pučišča. Its collection of art, one of the richest in the country, is focused on artists
connected with Brač or inspired by Mediterranean themes, but offering a valuable
insight into the development of Croatian art as a whole. The ground floor and
gardens are dedicated to sculpture, while on the upper floors you’ll find paintings.
There is, of course, a collection of works by Dešković, a sculptor best known for
his portrayal of hunting dogs in their instinctively elegant, powerful poses, and all
other artists featured are leading Croatian sculptors and painters, making this a
vital spot on the island’s cultural itinerary. Look out for the temporary exhibitions
which are also held here during the summer months. Important note: Extensive
renovation works are currently underway, and the ground floor works are scheduled
to be completed by 15 June, enabling that part of the gallery to open as of that
date. If all goes according to plan, the opening hours will be: June 15 - September
30 open 09:00 - 13:00, 18:00 - 22:00. Closed Mon. October - June 14 open 09:00
- 14:00, Sat 09:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. Due to the limited space open for visitors
there will be no entrance fee for the time being.
Ivan Rendić Gallery Jobo-
va bb,Supetar, tel. (+385-
21) 63 06 76/(+385-21)
63 00 33, www.knjiznica-
supetar.hr. This gallery is
dedicated to Supetar resident
and leading Croatian sculptor
Ivan Rendić (1849-1932). On
the first floor of the town’s
library building, this single
room houses a collection of
busts and drawings of the
sculptor’s many memorials.
There are also other designs, such as that for the sublime campanile in Ložišća,
as well as artefacts such as a letter from English Prime Minister Gladstone thank-
ing Rendić effusively for the gift of a bust which the artist sent to him. Outside the
gallery is a bronze sculpture of a female figure named “Allegory of the Mind”. A
visit to this gallery is essential for anyone who would like to get deeper into the
story of Rendić, the larger-than-life figure from Brač. You can buy a beautiful cof-
fee table book with the history of his life and photographs of his works. Q July,
August Open 20:30 - 22:30. September - June 30 Open 14:30 - 19:30, Tue, Thu,
Sat 08:30 - 13:30. Closed Sun.
Museums
Brač Native Museum (Muzej otoka Brača) Škrip, tel. (+385-21) 64
63 25, centar.za.kulturu.brac@st.t-com.hr. Škrip is in itself a museum with
abundant Illyrian and Roman remains and a true Croatian folk flavour given by
a scattering of ancient rural cottages. The Native Museum is in a complex of
buildings with snow-white stone rooftops beautifully set in a small walled garden.
The Radojković tower at its core is a unique and valuable construction with Illyrian
foundations and a Roman mausoleum at its base. The defensive upper part of the
tower was built in the 16th century during the time of the Venice-Ottoman wars. The
Museum’s collection covers: archaeological remains from prehistoric and Roman
times; an exhibition of pictures and ground plans of the island’s many chapels;
artefacts such as a copy of the Povlja lintel and the figurehead from a cargo ship
owned by the Blaca monastery which played a key part in defending Split harbour
from an English pirate ship. An ethnographic collection includes an old pasta-making
machine, an ancient photocopier from the Postira sardine factory, a decorative
cypress dowry chest, a beautiful grey wedding suit and velvet jacket which any
fashionista worth her salt would kill to get her hands on, and travel chests used by
émigrés starved out by the phylloxera blight for their passage to South America.
The exhibits are well labelled in Croatian and English, and the museum guide is
friendly, knowledgeable and will tell you more than you’ll ever be able to remember
about the museum and its exhibits in perfect English. We definitely recommend you
visit Škrip and learn more about the island’s past in this delightful little museum.
QOpen 08:00 - 20:00. Admission 5 - 12kn.
WHAT TO SEE
ESSENTIAL CITY GUIDES
Editorial
Editor Višnja Arambašić
Contributor Nataly Anderson
Assistant Editor Kristina Kovač
Researcher Anita Piplović, Blanka
Valić
Layout & Design Ivana Novak,
Gordan Karabogdan
Photos Brač In Your Pocket team,
Supetar Tourist Board, Milna Tourist
Board Brač online, Robert Barilla,
Brač Cultural Centre, Andrija Carli
Sales & Circulation
General Manager Višnja
Arambašić
Sales & Circulation Manager
Kristijan Vukičević
zagreb@inyourpocket.com
Copyright notice
Text and photos copyright Plava
Ponistra 1992 - 2011. Maps copyright
cartographer. All rights reserved.
No part of this publication may be
reproduced in any form, except brief
extracts for the purpose of review,
without written permission from
the publisher and copyright owner.
The brand name In Your Pocket
is used under license from UAB In
Your Pocket (Vokieciu 10-15, Vilnius,
Lithuania tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76).
Brač In Your Pocket
Draškovićeva 66
Croatia
tel. (+385-1) 481 30 27, 481 10 70
fax (+385-1) 492 39 24
zagreb@inyourpocket.com
www.inyourpocket.com
©Plava Ponistra d.o.o.
Printed by Znanje d.d., Zagreb
Editor’s note
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guides is independent from paid-for
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CULTURE & EVEnTS UNDeRwATeR BRAč
Bol
Bistro Terasa Santo Frane Radića 3, tel. (+385-21) 71 71 94/(+385-) 091
781 89 99. A friendly place with a lovely seafront terrace and a menu offering an
escape from the run-of-the-mill. One of the most popular dishes, refreshing on hot
days, is the Santo salad: chicken on a bed of lettuce with balsamic vinegar and
peanuts, while marinated prawns with peppers and pršut come a close second.
Also recommended are the house specials of fillet steak in roast bell-pepper sauce
and “mother’s brudet”: a mix of lobster and fish cooked in garlic, wine and tomato.
Q April - November Open 09:00 - 23:00 (50 - 150kn). AGB
Konoba Gušt Frane Radića 14, tel. (+385-21) 63 59 11/(+385-) 098
42 30 03, info@konobagust.hr, www.konobagust-bol.com. Decorated in a
rustic antique style, Gušt is a recreation of a traditional fisherman’s restaurant.
It’s known as a haven of good Dalmatian-style cooking, sometimes with a twist:
for example, the black squid ink usually used in risotto here appears in a gnocchi
dish. The lobster salad is excellent, as is lobster with spaghetti, or try gregada,
a delightfully simple dish of top quality white fish cooked with potato, onion and
garlic and lashings of olive oil and parsley. Q April 15 - October 15 Open 12:00 -
24:00. (60 - 150kn). PNB
Konoba Mali Raj Put Zlatnog rata, tel. (+385-21) 63 52 82/(+385-) 098
26 58 51. Not the local Indian restaurant but a traditional style konoba on the
far western corner where the Zlatni rat peninsula joins the mainland. The name,
meaning “little paradise”, is truly apt: this is a delightful, lush garden ringed by stone
walls and affording great mountain views. The menu consists of fish, seafood and
meat classics, and the octopus is considered among the best in town. Q May -
October 10 Open 12:00 - 24:00. NB
Pizzeria Topolino Frane Radića 1 (Hotel Kaštil), tel. (+385-21) 63 59 95.
Topolino’s pizzas are among the best in town, but this restaurant additionally has
a wide ranging menu, including excellent breakfasts (e.g. scrambled eggs with
shrimps, healthy “wholemeal platter”), and brunch served ‘til 14:00. The standard
of food is reliably high, with high quality ingredients used. Service is excellent. Live
music livens up the evening atmosphere at this waterfront eatery. Q May - October
15 Open 08:00 - 23:00. (60 - 100kn). AB
Ribarska kućica A. Starčevića bb, tel. (+385-21) 63 50 33, info@ribarska-
kucica.com, www.ribarska-kucica.com. This delightful stone fisherman’s
warehouse occupies the tip of a headland with perfect, tiny beaches either side.
It’s on the eastern edge of town, before the Dominican monastery. With wraparound
sea views, this is a wonderful place to enjoy a long lunch while sea breezes soothe
the heat away. This is really a place for seafood, although there are a handful of
excellent meat offerings as well. The lobster salad regularly receives rave reviews,
while the home-made gnocci with gorgonzola and prosciutto sauce are excellent
if you need a more filling meal. This is an excellent place for scampi, either simply
grilled or buzara style with wine, tomato and garlic. Don’t come wearing white! Q
May - October Open 10:00 - 24:00. (80 - 150kn). PNB
Taverna Riva Frane Radića 5, tel. (+385-21) 63 52 36. This family-run res-
taurant has a 30-year pedigree and enjoys a reputation as the finest restaurant
in town. The menu features both local classics and international dishes, including
desserts such as semifreddo and panna cotta. The service is highly professional
and we found the home-produced red wine excellent, but we were a bit surprised
that the seafood tagliatelle was drowned in cream, while the gravy-like green pep-
percorn sauce didn’t do the tender, perfectly-cooked fillet steak justice. However,
the chips were home-made and perfectly cooked in their skins - a delight! Q
May - October Open 11:00 - 24:00. November - April 30 Open 11:00 - 14:00,
18:00 - 21:00. (70 - 140kn). AGB
Vusio Frane Radića 1 (Hotel Kaštil), tel. (+385-21) 63 59 95/(+385-21)
63 59 96, www.kastil.hr. This stylish summer terrace (which doubles as the
breakfast terrace of Hotel Kaštil) is one to choose if you’ve something to celebrate.
The concept is top class Dalmatian food using only the highest quality, fresh local
ingredients. Even the grill is fired on natural wood from the island. The whole experi-
ence is complemented by the stunning sea views and an excellent wine list - a real
treat. Try the fresh young cheese škuta as a dessert. Q June - September Open
19:00 - 23:00 (70 - 200kn). AB
Dol
Konoba Toni Dol, tel. (+385-21) 63 26 93/(+385-) 091 516 65 32, 091
572 19 54, tonci.matulic1@st.t-com.hr, www.toni-dol.info. Toni is famed far
and wide as a bastion of excellent quality, simple, traditional cooking. Located in a
lush valley, there’s an ample source of fresh home-produced vegetables and meat,
and fish is also fresh and expertly prepared. But we recommend you make the trip
to Toni for these three things: the friendly atmosphere, the view up to the village
which looks as if it’s grown of its own accord from the rock, and Auntie Barica’s
Hrapačuša cake. This is a speciality otherwise known as “Dol Viagra” - the com-
bination of almonds, walnuts and caramelised sugar will certainly leave you feeling
frisky… Q April - November Open 12:00 - 24:00. (40 - 100kn). B
Donji Humac
Konoba Kopačina Donji Humac, tel. (+385-21) 64 77 07/(+385-) 098 68
97 60, ivojugovic@gmail.com, www.konoba-kopacina.hr. Almost unparalleled
in its reputation as the best place to eat on Brač, if you only venture into the island’s
interior in order to eat here, it’ll be worth the trip. Only fresh, natural food is used,
the soups are brilliant and there are fabulous seasonal specials on the menu such
as grilled lamb steak with cheese and young broad beans. Although Kopačina is
always busy, the service is very friendly so let your waiter guide you to the best
thing on offer. Q April - October 31 Open 10:00 - 24:00. November - March 31
Open 10:00 - 22:00. PIGB
Gornji Humac
Konoba Tomić Gornji Humac, tel. (+385-) 091 225 11 99/(+385-) 091 225
11 77, info@konobatomic.com, www.konobatomic.com. Hidden away in the
middle of this ancient stone settlement is the home of the Tomić family: an 800-
year-old house with adjoining wine cellar that now serves as a restaurant. In the
very barrels you see here the wine you are drinking is matured; and the konoba is
full of the scent of woodsmoke from the open fire. Since the family grows vegetable
and rears livestock for the restaurant, everything that you eat is fresh and organic,
including the bread. Try the veal, or take the chance and try goat meat, you won’t
regret it. Q June 15 - October 31 Open 18:00 - 02:00. November - June 14 Open
by prior arrangement. (50 - 120kn). NB
Milna
Fontana Žalo bb, Milna, tel. (+385-21) 63 62 85, 63 63 55/(+385-) 091
520 04 71. Named after Rendić’s fountain in front of the school on the square,
Fontana is a family-owned place with a slightly old-fashioned but sunny interior, a
pleasant, spacious terrace and cooking that brings in locals and the yachtie crowd
alike. Try their green manestra: pasta with seafood sauce. Q June - September
30 Open 08:00 - 24:00. October - November 30, March - May 31 Open 08:00 -
22:00. (50 - 110kn). NB
Galicija Galicija bb, Milna, tel. (+385-21) 63 63 12. A little set back from
the waterfront in a green residential area, Galicija’s terrace is an idyllic spot to
while away a long lunch. This is a good place for a simple meal of fried sardines,
or mackerel, tuna or meat grilled over charcoal. There are a few house speciali-
ties such as medallions of meat with asparagus and cheese, meat fondue and
refreshing plate salads. Q May - November Open 10:00 - 14:00, 17:00 - 24:00.
(50 - 100kn). INB
Konoba Smrčeva (Lučice bay) Uvala Lučice, tel. (+385-) 091 422 21 10/
(+385-) 091 335 54 86, 095 526 11 93. Konoba Smrčeva is remarkable not
only for its spectacularly unpronounceable name, but also for being run by former
Hajduk football star Marino Lemešić, his journalist wife Dragica and their son Leo.
The family have gained a reputation for excellent food and a wonderfully unspoilt
atmosphere at this out-of-town konoba. To get here by boat, head for the Lučice
bay directly south of Milna and keep an eye out for the green sunshade on the left
hand side. You can also get here by car: from Milna head for the cemetery, and from
the crossroads keep following the signs. Since this is a small place, it’s advisable
to call ahead to let the family know you’re coming, and they’ll gladly help you out if
you get a little lost along the way. Q May - November Open 12:00 - 22:00 NB
Murvica
Konoba Marija Murvica bb, tel. (+385-) 091 195 87 54. Escapists should
definitely take the trek along the dirt track to Murvica, an oasis of peace with stun-
ning views and a delightful little beach. This delightfully friendly konoba consists of
a simple, roofed terrace with an open fire offering good food at reasonable prices,
it’s a great place to kick back and relax through a sweltering afternoon. The menu
has most of the standard classics, including pizzas and pasta dishes, but for the
ultimate experience we suggest you order lamb roast on the spit or veal, lamb
or octopus cooked peka style. Call ahead to order the latter and to reserve for
larger groups. Q June 15 - September 14 Open 10:00 - 24:00. April 15 - June 14,
September 15 - October Open 10:00 - 21:00. (60 - 100kn). NB
Nerežišća
Gažul Gažul, tel. (+385-) 098 993 09 43/(+385-) 091 517 23 05. This little
traditional stone konoba is set in the shepherds’ settlement of Gažul, inland on
the road between Nerežišća and Gornji Humac. Although Gažul is nowadays only
inhabited in the summertime, the konoba is open from February to November but
only by prior appointment. Logically enough, the menu is devoted exclusively to
lamb, and all the ingredients used in the preparation of your meal are grown or
reared by your hosts themselves. A really authentic experience, and delicious too!
Q Open February - November by prior arrangement. NB
Povlja
Konoba Kala Povlja, tel. (+385-21) 63 90 24. A pleasant and clean little
konoba with wooden benches on the waterfront, well patronised by locals due to
the freshness of the fish. For a lighter meal, try a plate of fried small fish (sardines
or similar), while the oily fish (mackerel or similar) is a little more substantial. If you’re
treating yourself, choose top quality sea fish or scampi. Meat and pasta are also on
the menu, but it’s a pity to miss out on a rare chance to enjoy truly fresh fish and
seafood! Q April - November Open 10:00 - 22:00. (35 - 120kn). PAGB
Konoba Pipo Uvala Luke, tel. (+385-) 098 78 13 58. In a deep inlet on the
way to Povlja, Pipo is only reachable by boat (head for the Luka bay near Povlja).
A little slice of paradise: a traditional stone house located on the site of an old
quarry at the head of the inlet, where all the food on offer is home grown, including
the mussels and oysters. The views are phenomenal, there are five little beaches
and a playground for the kids. If you fall hopelessly in love with the place, you can
rent a room and potter to your heart’s content in one of the family’s boats. Q
Apr 15 - October Open 07:00 - 24:00. NB
lobster cooked in tomato and red wine, served with macaroni. Q May - Sep-
tember Open 09:00 - 24:00. (50 - 250kn). AGB
Vala Riva bb, Splitska, tel. (+385-21) 63 29 05/(+385-) 099 710 17
84. Vala has a spacious terrace at the head of Splitska’s harbour, and has no
interior dining space. It’s a place for sampling grilled fish and meat, including
lamb. They also serve food cooked peka style. Try octopus, if you’re feeling
daring - it’s juicy and delicious. Q May - November Open 09:00 - 24:00.
(50 - 150kn). B
Sumartin
Bistro Dalmatino Riva bb, Sumartin, tel. (+385-21) 64 81 55. If you
enjoy the romance of dining by the water, Dalmatino is the place to be, since its
pleasing terrace is set atop a little stone pier. You can keep the nautical theme
going with a plate of the fisherman’s favourite, fried sardines, or a grilled piece
of tuna, while simple meat dishes such as mixed grill and čevapi - spiced meat
patties - keep the carnivores happy. Q Open 06:30 - 22:00. June - October
15 Open 06:30 - 24:00. NB
Supetar
Agroturizam Ranjak Supetar, tel. (+385-) 091 631 66 99. This is an
“agri-tourism” venture: a family home open to visitors, exclusively offering home
produce prepared by Mrs Rajević, who is a simply fabulous cook. The sweet
toothed may be tempted by her “hroštule” - scented fritters as light as a
feather, while those keen to taste local specialities might ask for vitalac or
tripe. The pleasant garden is in an olive grove and has a play area to keep kids
occupied while you munch. Located a few kilometres out of Supetar, on the way
to Nerežišća. Q April - November 30 Open 12:00 - 24:00. December - March
Open by prior arrangement. N
Bistro Palute Porat 4, Supetar, tel. (+385-21) 63 17 30. Palute gets the
thumbs-up for its side dishes of home-made chips and tasty rice with vegetables.
Another favourite is spinach pasta with crab meat. Palute is on the busiest part
of the waterfront, close to the ferry and bus station, and is a good place to
pick up a tasty, quick and reasonably priced meal. Nice atmosphere and good
value for money. Q June - October 31 Open 08:00 - 24:00. November - May
31 Open 08:00 - 22:00. AGB
Konoba Gušti mora Ive Vojnovića 16, Supetar, tel. (+385-21) 63 10
56. Run by a family who are impressively devoted to their customers. Almost
everything is made on the premises or by trusted local suppliers, this is a good
bet for cheese and pršut. Apart from classics served with an imaginative twist,
the menu includes international dishes such as scallops in wine and cognac
or pasta with salmon and caviar. Try the pancakes with škuta or baked figs
in honey sauce for dessert, and don’t miss the range of home-made liqueurs,
mellow and not too sweet. Q July, August Open 12:00 - 24:00. May, June,
September, October Open 12:00 - 22:00. NGB
Konoba Lukin Porat 32, tel. (+385-21) 63 06 83/(+385-) 091 591 62
88, raull@vip.hr. This simple konoba has a pleasant location on the western
end of the Supetar harbour. Lukin serves all the classic fish and meat dishes: we
tried the black risotto and found it to be tasty. Soups are home-made, not out
of a packet. The interior is in stone and wood, while the toilets are impressively
clean and snazzy. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. Closed January. (20 - 390kn). NB
Konoba Vinotoka Jobova 6, tel. (+385-21) 63 09 69/(+385-) 091 207
44 70, kanoc@st.t-com.hr. Vinotoka has an old konoba and a new space
across the street which is possibly the loveliest restaurant premises in town:
a large raftered space on the upper floor of a building, with windows all around.
Vinotoka has a standard menu, the quality of the food is solid and in general the
restaurant offers good value for money, though the service could do with being a
little more attentive. Q May 15 - October 31 Open 15:00 - 24:00. AG
Sutivan
Bracera Riva bb, Sutivan, tel. (+385-21) 63 84 52. The smells that waft
from this pizzeria are a good guide to the tempting pies that are rustled up inside.
Bracera is a relaxed little place right on the waterfront by the big wooden fishing
boat, and has a pleasant stone interior. Q June 15 - August 31 Open 12:00 -
24:00. May - June 14, September 1 - 15 Open 17:00 - 22:00. NGB
Dora Sutivan, tel. (+385-21) 63 81 97/(+385-) 098 937 73 65, bartul.
luksic@live.com. The entrance to the restaurant is amid lush greenery by a
little roadside shrine, two blocks away from the waterfront. The lovely terrace
affords a full view onto the kitchen area, where fish and seafood are grilled and
meat is cooked under the peka - an iron lid heaped with embers. This place has
been kept in the same family for decades, and has been rewarded by legions of
fans for its excellent food and friendly service. Q June - September 20 Open
16:00 - 24:00 (45 - 150kn). AB
The crystalline water is just one reason why Brač is a diver’s paradise. The
second reason is the underwater world of wildlife waiting, and the third is
the wealth of geological and archaeological places of interest waiting to be
explored. Clay amphorae, sarcophagi and blocks of stone speak of shipwrecks
that took place in the days when Greek ships traded with the islanders and
Roman colonisers exported the beautiful white Brač limestone to construct
their grand buildings and monuments. The richest underwater archaeological
sites are scattered on the seashore around Splitska, the harbour used for
transporting stone to Split.
There are several sites to dive from Bol, which has several diving centres.
Diving from the tip of the Zlatni rat beach is a good introduction to diving here.
Though it may seem that there’s not much to see on the sandy bottom due to
the constant action of currents, if you move further out to where the seaweed
starts you’ll come across flora and fauna. Be aware that there can be quite
strong currents at this location, so you need to be a strong swimmer.
Also near Bol, Drasine is an interesting site suitable for novice divers where
you can see the remains of a Roman mosaic at a depth of 5 to 8 m, as well as
an abundance of sea life hidden in crevices and holes. The rocky and sandy
sub-aqua terrain at Golubinja Cove is home to gobies, cuttlefish, wrasse
and conger eels.
On the island of Hvar but reachable from Bol are Smočiguzica on the Kabel
peninsula (the name sounds rather amusing, meaning “Wet Bottom”) and
Tatinja. The first is rich in a variety of fish species, while at the second you’ll
find coral. Watch out for strong currents in both these places as well.
The Lučica bay is on the southwest side of the island between Milna and Bol.
There is an underwater cave here with its entrance at a depth of 5m. You can
enter at one of two points, which are 2m and 3m wide. Dropping down, you
come to a large cavern with a sediment bottom at 42m. Here you’ll find the
entrances to two blind tunnels, stalagmites and a siphon which comes out on
the land. Divers report swimming with greater amberjack here - powerful fish
which can reach up to 2m in length.
As experienced divers will know, to reach depths of over 40m and to enter
caves, you need specialist training and equipment so don’t try this on your
own, kids. The same goes for visiting shipwrecks. One of these is to be found
40m east of the islet of Mrduja, just off the coast of Milna. There’s also a
wall here, which is fun to explore.
Ptičij rat (Bird Cape), close to Povlja, also has a beautiful wall. This is a geologi-
cally fascinating site with underwater caves, channels and springs.
It goes without saying, diving can be dangerous and you must seek expert
guidance. To dive in caves and other formations you need a permit from the
Ministry of Culture. Protected sites are patrolled, and penalties for breaking
the rules are stiff. To be on the safe side, please seek guidance from a profes-
sional diving centre.
GETTING AROUND GETTING AROUND
Taxi services on Brač are operated by small private companies, so you’ll
see a host of different numbers advertised. These operators have, in the
main, accepted a standard tariff: start 20kn; 1km / 10kn; waiting 80kn /
hour; 5kn per large item of luggage. Holidays, Sundays and at night extra
30% is tacked on to bill. To avoid misunderstandings, please confirm the
price with the driver before you start your journey.
Filomena Supetar, tel. (+385-) 095 908 92 69.
Kacavida Supetar, tel. (+385-) 091 522 43 79/(+385-) 098 26 56
92.
Kupina Bol, tel. (+385-) 098 26 52 19.
Lastavica Bol, tel. (+385-) 098 26 49 90.
Maxi Supetar, tel. (+385-) 098 78 13 77. Also in Pučišća.
Mia Bol, tel. (+385-) 098 20 70 22.
Ombre Bol, tel. (+385-) 095 909 41 24.
Peša Supetar, tel. (+385-) 098 77 78 28/(+385-) 095 860 42 85.
Valiž Supetar, tel. (+385-) 098 38 52 74.
nR Supetar, tel. (+385-) 091 502 78 77.
Taxi
The company Autotrans operates a network of buses serving the needs
of the local population, especially school children, throughout the year,
and a special service with tourists in mind during the summer season
(1 July - 31 August). Supetar forms the natural hub, and is connected
with all the island’s main communities by bus - the main bus station is
just east of the ferry terminal. This means that you should have little
problem in being able to explore the island at least a little using public
transport only.
Prices are set according to distance (buy your ticket from the driver
except for at Supetar bus station).
Zone 1 (under 7km) single 14kn, return 20kn
Zone 2 (7-19km) single 20kn, return 30kn
Zone 3 (20-35km) single 26kn, return 40kn
Zone 4 (35-61km) single 40kn, return 50kn
Autotrans Porat 12, Supetar, tel. 060 39 30 60, info@autotrans-
brac.hr, www.autotrans.hr.
Public transport
Bol Tourist Board Porat bolskih pomoraca bb, Bol, tel.
(+385-21) 63 56 38, tz@bol.hr, www.bol.hr. Q July, August
Open 08:30 - 22:00. June, September Open 08:30 - 14:00, 16:30
- 21:00. October - May 31 Open 08:30 -14:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Milna Tourist Board Milna bb, Milna, tel. (+385-21) 63 62 33,
tzo-milna@st.t-com.hr, www.milna.hr. Q June - September 30 Open
08:00 - 22:00. October - May 31 Open 08:00 - 15:00, Sat 08:00 -12:00.
Closed Sun.
Postira Tourist Board Strančica 3, Postira, tel. (+385-21) 63 29
66, tzo-postira@st.t-com.hr, www.postira.hr. Q June - September
30 Open 08:00 - 22:00. October 1 - 31 Open 08:00 - 15:00, Sat 08:00 -
13:00. Closed Sun. November - April 15 Open 08:30 - 13:00. Closed Sat,
Sun. April 16 - May 31 Open 08:00 - 15:00, Tue, Thu 08:00 - 14:00, 18:00
- 20:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Pučišća Tourist Board Pučišća bb, Pučišća, tel. (+385-21) 63
35 55, tz@pučišća.hr, www.pucisca.hr. Q June 15 - 30 Open 08:00
- 12:00. July - September 30 Open 08:00 - 12:00, 17:30 - 20:30. Open
according to demand.
Selca Tourist Board Trg S.Radića 5, Selca, tel. (+385-21) 64 82
09. Q TIC Sumartin - June, September Open 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.
July, August Open 09:00 - 20:00. October, March, April, May Open according
to demand. Closed November, February.
TIC Povlja - June, September Open 09:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. July,
August Open 09:00 - 20:00. Closed October - April. May Open according
to demand.
Supetar Tourist Board Porat 1, Supetar, tel. (+385-21) 63 05
51/(+385-21) 63 09 00, tzg-supetar@st.t-com.hr, www.supetar.
hr. Q June - September 30 Open 08:00 - 22:00. October - May 31 Open
08:30 - 15:30. Closed Sun.
Sutivan Tourist Board Trg dr. F. Tuđmana 1, Sutivan, tel. (+385-
21) 63 83 57, tz-sutivan@inet.hr, www.tzo-sutivan.com. Q July,
August Open 08:00 - 21:00, Sun 08:00 - 12:00. June, September Open
08:00 - 12:00, 17:00 -20:00, Sun 08:00 -12:00. October - May 31 Open
08:00 - 14:00, Sat 08.00 - 11:00. Closed Sun.
Tourist information
i
Info graf Nova riva bb, Pučišća, tel. (+385-21) 63 36 15/(+385-) 099
815 17 26. Also in Supetar, Mladena Vodanovića 27, tel. 021 45 77 79. Open
07:30 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Q June - September 30 Open 08:00 - 22:00.
October - May 31 Open 08:00 - 13:00, 16:30 -18:30. Closed Sun. 20kn/h.
Interactiv Rudina 6, Bol, tel. (+385-) 091 572 58 55. 11 computers.
Q June 15 - September 15 Open 09:30 - 24:00. May - June 15, September
16 - 31 Open 09:30 - 13.00, 16:30 - 22:00. 30kn/h.
Internet Corner 1 Porat bb, Supetar, tel. (+385-) 095 907 32 40. Q
May 15 - June 15, September Open 09:00 - 12:00, 16:00 - 20:00. June 16 -
August 31 Open 09:00 - 24:00. 10kn/15min, 15kn/30min, 30kn/60min.
Malo misto Ive Marinkovića 6, Sutivan, tel. (+385-) 098 950 71 71.
3 computers. Q June 15 - 30, September 1 - 15 Open 09:00 -12:00, 16:00
-21:00. July, August Open 09:00 - 21:00. First 10min/10kn, each additional
30min/15kn.
Internet places
Ferries and boats
Apart from the island’s connection to the mainland, you can also travel directly
to the island of Hvar. An evening boat leaves Bol for Jelsa, and on Tuesdays a
boat leaves Milna at noon for Hvar town. (Neither service takes cars on board).
Unfortunately these timetables don’t allow for day trips, but it’s good to know
if you plan a short stay on the neighbouring island. Local operators organise
day trips by boat to popular local sightseeing spots.
Jadrolinija Hrvatskih velikana bb, Supetar, tel. (+386-21) 63 13 57,
www.jadrolinija.hr. Q June - October 31 Open 04:30 - 20:30, 22:00 -
22:45.
November - May 31 Open 05:45 - 20:45, 22:00 - 22:45. Sun 07:00 - 19:15,
22:00 - 22:45.
Gas station
Ina Bol Vladimira nazora 3, tel. (+385-) 091 497 12 24. Q June - September
30 Open 07:00 - 21:00. October - May 31 Open 07:00 - 12:00, 16:00 - 19:00.
Closed Sun.
Ina Milna Milna, tel. (+385-) 091 497 03 32. Q April 18 - May 31 Open
07:00 - 19:00, Sun 07:00 - 13:00. June - September 30 Open 07:00 - 21:00.
October - April 17 Open 07:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.
Ina Supetar Mladena Vodanovića 1, tel. (+385-) 091 497 12 51. Q June -
September 15 Open 06:00 - 22:00. September 16 - May 31 Open 07:00 - 19:30.
Sun 07:00 - 13:00.
Road help 1987
Parking
There are pay car parks in Supetar, Bol and Sutivan.
Supetar’s two pay car parks operate all year. One is to the left of the ferry ter-
minal as you arrive, and the other is to your right at the entrance to town. They
operate 1 June - 30 September 06:00 - 22:00 daily, prices 5 - 7kn / hour, day
ticket 30kn. At other times of the year the price is 5kn / hour but a day ticket
costs 25kn, and opening hours are the same.
Bol has a pay car park on the waterfront with opening hours: 1 May - 14
June, 16 September - 15 October 08:00 - 17:00, tourist season 15 June - 15
September 06:00 - 23:00. Price: 10kn / hour. Parking at other times of the
year is free of charge.
Sutivan has a car park close to the centre, by the entrance to the town. 2011
prices were not finalized at the time of going to print.
GETTING AROUND
Looking for more? Just click!
brac.inyourpocket.com
Hroštule - a traditional sweet Brač speciality
Pučišća
Konoba Lado Pučišća, tel. (+385-21) 63 30 69. A little restaurant with a
nice big terrace, offering local specialities such as žutinica (wild greens, tasty and
slightly bitter), asparagus, tripe and bakalar - salt cod, usually served as a stew.
The restaurant has its own boat, so you can be sure of the freshest fish here. Q
June - October 31 Open 11:00 - 15:00, 18:00 - 24:00. INGB
Selca
Agroturizam Hacienda Selca bb, tel. (+385-) 091 894 99 96. A huddle of
beautifully-preserved stone cottages with a delightful central garden. Take a peep
into the main building, a fabulous old-fashioned barn-style construction. Family run,
everything that reaches your plate is home grown right here, including the fruit
from which the renowned sour cherry juice is made. Lamb features high on the
menu, roast on the spit, under an iron bell or in true local style, chunks lanced on
a špica - a skewer, browned over an open fire. Service is sometimes on the slow
side, but the family are very friendly, the atmosphere is pure relaxation and there
are even two tiny cottages where you can stay overnight. Q May - October Open
12:00 - 23:00. (60 - 150kn). NB
Splitska
Konoba kod Tonča Riva bb, Splitska, tel. (+385-21) 71 77 16/(+385-)
091 534 36 85. This is an old-fashioned stone konoba, family run, with seating
on Splitska’s waterfront. It serves traditional Dalmatian food, including specialities
made to order such as pašticada (a beef stew with gnocci) or brudet od jastoga:
www.inyourpocket.com

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Brač is not dominated by one settlement but is dotted with inland and coastal
communities. While the coastal resorts now play a leading role in the island’s
economy due to tourism, the inland settlements are much older. They provided
shelter from the pirates that marauded the coast, and the settlers were able to
make a living from raising sheep and growing crops once they had cleared the
rocky soil. For centuries the island was governed from its interior. So, although each
coastal resort has its own charm, visiting the inland settlements will give you the
true flavour of the island. Here, we try to give you a feel for each place. For more
detailed information on the sights please turn to the “What to see” pages.
Bobovišća
This tiny hamlet, perched on its hillside overlooking the coast, is an idyllic spot
for anyone who appreciates rural stone architecture. Bobovišća grew up as a
collection of shepherds’ homesteads. These industrious folk engaged in growing
olives and grapevines, and tended fertile vegetable gardens, hence the name
deriving from bob, the Croatian word for “broad bean”. Bobovišća at the turn of
the 20th century was a community numbering several hundred souls, but like so
many island settlements today it is sadly depopulated. However, it’s a wonderfully
well-preserved little place, so we recommend stopping for a stroll to admire the
view and the stone cottages and gardens. The Church of St George was built in
1914 on the site of a 17th century church, while the pre-Romanesque hilltop chapel
of St Martin affords a stunning view over the narrow channel between Brač and
Šolta, especially at sunset. Bobovišća is well known for its intricate lace, a craft
that has been practiced since the 17th century. Some fine examples are kept in
the parish church in Hvar town.
Bobovišća na moru
Coasting downhill along a cypress-lined road, you pass through a fertile valley
before coming to a little fishing village huddled along a deep inlet. At the point
where a stream runs into the sea is a monument by sculptor Mirko Ostoja (Dol,
1921-2009) to Vladimir Nazor (1876-1949), one of Croatia’s greatest poets and
writers, whose parental home was here. Nazor was deeply inspired by the childhood
days he spent here, by the peace, the mysticism and the island’s characters such
as the shepherd Loda. Above his family home, Nazor erected a memorial tower
as well as a faux Acropolis as a memento of his three sisters and their travels in
Greece. Across the harbour is the pleasingly simple 18th century fortified manor
of the Gligo family. Bobovišća na moru grew up when the inland communities of
Bobovišća and Ložišća became stronger and needed an outlet to the sea. Today
it’s a relaxed little place with almost no commercial tourism, offering a complete
escape from the bustle of modern life.
Bol
This is the picture postcard one, some-
times derided as “just a beach”, but oh,
what a beach... Known as Zlatni rat (“the
Golden Cape”), it’s a triangle of shingle
that changes shape with the winds and
tides and juts out into a perfect azure
sea. A pine forest grows along the spine
of the cape providing an oasis of scented
shade. Bol’s beach may not be for you
if you can’t bear summertime crowds,
but its great for watersports, adventure
activities and sport of all kinds.
Bol is also Brač’s oldest coastal settlement, the only one
of any size on the island’s southern coast. There is much
evidence of settlement by the Romans, who lent the place
the name of Vallum denoting a settlement fortified by earthen
defences or possibly the coast. The town boasts a Dominican
monastery (1475) with a museum and a beautiful garden, and
there are several churches containing beautiful artworks.
A genteel life grew up over the centuries, and Brač boasts
some fine mansions and palaces, most notably the 17th
century (??) renaissance-baroque palace that now houses
the Dešković gallery, one of the richest art collections in Croatia. Add to these
the 18th century Lode Palace, the Loggia, a collection of fisherman’s cottages,
an 18th century windmill, a hilltop Illyrian fort and the fine building of the first
winegrowers’ collective in Dalmatia (now being brought into use for the public, so
you’ll have ample access to the renowned Bol Plavac), and we would argue that
Bol has plenty to offer for history and culture buffs. There’s even a curiosity called
“Kuća u kući” or “The house within a house”, an illustration of what can happen
when a dispute over a piece of land gets out of hand…
The town boasts a Dominican monastery
(1475) with a museum, collection of rare
books and a beautiful garden, and there
are several churches of note including
the monastery church of Our Lady of
Mercy with its raftered ceiling, picture
of the Apotheosis of St Dominic by Tripo
Kokolje, a local artist, and a 17th century
Tintoretto painting “Mother of God with
Saints”. The pre-Romanesque church
of Saint John and Theodore, built in the
9th and 10th centuries on the site of a 6th century chapel where fragments of
frescoes were found. The town cemetery (1828), sited in an attractive cove, is
also a good place to pass a contemplative moment.
With its south-facing aspect, azure seas and dramatic location under the glower-
ing peak of Vidova gora, Bol is a town of openness and light. There are several
large but pleasant hotels, a scattering of good restaurants and a brace of lively
bars where you can dance into the small hours. If you need to get away from it all,
you can explore the string of delightful shingle beaches along the coast, visit the
fascinating Dragon’s Cave and Blaca monastery, or hike to the Adriatic’s highest
peak, Vidova gora, where you’ll be rewarded by splendid views of the town, the
golden cape and Hvar island.
Dol
Dol is an iconic stone village. Its houses
are dug into the rock, serried in rows so
that they appear to be growing up the
hillside, blending in with the caves that
overhang them and with the colours of
the landscape. Set in a fertile valley, Dol
is still a farming community that offers you
the chance to enjoy deep peace and the
contentment of home cooking using the
freshest local ingredients.
Deep in the rocky karst landscape, natural freshwater accumulations were
discovered close to Dol which for centuries provided drinking water for Postira,
Supetar and Sutivan. When a water main was brought over from the mainland
forty years ago, this local water source was locked up by the water company.
Opened in April 2010 for exploration, a small shrimp-like creature was found - a
new species endemic to the island.
Around Dol are a number of hilltop chapels. The oldest is St Michaels (Sv. Mihalj).
Surrounded by sarcophagi, the chapel’s door itself is made of a sarcophagus with
the base sawn off. It’s easy to understand why the Romans felt this high spot,
brooding over its surroundings and attracting thunderbolts, was an appropriate
resting place for their dead. Today, with the bleating of multitude sheep, the
scent of wild herbs and the wind all around, you can still feel a special mystical
atmosphere.
Donji Humac
This is one of the oldest settlements on
Brač. In the nearby Kopačina cave the dis-
covery of Stone Age implements are some
of the earliest signs of human habitation
in the central Adriatic. The village grew
up close to the cave on the nearby hill
Humac, screened from view of the pirate
ships which terrorised the coast. Walk-
ing through the village, you can see the
original roofs of the stone houses covered
with stone slabs which give the place a primordial feel. In the gardens you can see
even older field houses (bunja), shelters made from field stones heaped using
a dry stone technique. On top of the hill is the Church of St Mary which boasts
a 13th century Romanesque fresco believed to have miraculous powers. Under
a shade of a beautiful tree is a great big stone table, a feature of almost every
village and for generations the centre of social life.
Nowadays, Donji Humac is celebrated as a centre of sculpture and gastronomy.
The Jakšić family, who for generations have worked with Brač stone from the nearby
quarries, have their home and atelier here. In their gallery you can enjoy sensuous
stone forms and abstract art, see stylish jewellery and even fashion made of stone.
They hold an international symposium of sculpture every two years, donating the
results to the island communities and thus contributing to Brač becoming a big
sculpture park. In Donji Humac, witty sculptures line the steps between the parish
church and the Kopačina konoba.
The Kopačina konoba is famed far and wide for its delicious, authentic island
cuisine. From May and throughout season the konoba hosts a festival of lamb.
Every Thursday a big buffet is laid on with lamb prepared in a million different
ways. This is the real deal, authentic and delicious Brač cuisine.
The Kopačina cave is about twenty minutes’ walk from Donji Humac, heading
northwest. The cave was probably chosen as a shelter due to the spring outside
the cave’s mouth (covered up when the village’s well was built). Stone Age imple-
ments, ceramic fragments and a bronze axe suggest continuity of prehistoric
life here, while burial mounds, graves, sarcophagi, a mausoleum and three Early
Christian chapels showing human activity in Roman times. Close by is the “Vodna
jama” or “Water Abyss”, also a rich find of prehistoric artefacts and with a naturally-
occurring formation: a human face made of rock.
Dračevica
Dračevica, an inland hamlet, is a relative youngster in
Brač terms, founded in the 16th century by refugees
from the mainland who settled here by order of the
Venetian doge. A number of pools provided water
for the inhabitants: there are three wells on the main
square. Quiet Dračevica has a simple parish church
and a little chapel dedicated to Saints Cosmas and
Damian, holy physicians believed to protect commu-
nities from plague. Today Dračevica seems almost
deserted, its community devastated in the 19th
century by the phylloxera plague which destroyed the
vineyards and robbed the people of their livelihoods.
However, you can see signs of homes being restored
and life returning to this little rural idyll.
Gažul
On the road between Nerežišća and Gornji Humac, follow the turning for Gažul
and you’ll come to a collection of stone shepherd’s cottages, inhabited during
the summer months when the sheep are sent out to graze. The hamlet is still in
use today. In summer a stock breeders’ fair takes place, where the island’s prize
sheep, goats and cattle take part in a raucous beauty contest. With local food
and drink aplenty, it’s great fun, visit if you can!
Gornji Humac
The highest village on Brač, Gornji Humac is a straggling collection of stone
houses with large yards fenced by dry stone walls, for centuries a centre of stock
breeding on the island. It is surrounded by the remains of ancient villages such
as Gradac, Mošuje and Straževnik. Unlike those old hamlets, Gornji Humac did
not succumb to the plague in the 15th and 16th century, and life has continued
to prosper to this day.
This is a simple rural community dedicated to the daily tasks of raising livestock
and growing vegetables, with few modern refinements. That is exactly why Gornji
Humac is another essential stop on a tour of the finest cuisine that the island has
to offer. Absolutely everything you eat here is fresh, local and home-made.
On the main square of Gornji Humac there’s a simple church with a square
tower, uncharacteristic of Dalmatia, with a flattish bell tower recalling the church
architecture of Tuscany.
Ložišća
We hardly dare tell you what awaits you when
you set eyes on Ložišća for the first time, for
fear of spoiling this spellbinding moment.
However, since our job is to provide tourists
with information we’ll just have to risk it…
Built on the crest of a hilltop and cascading
into a valley, the stone village is spectacular
enough in itself. But rising from its heart like
a delicate stone lily is an ornate bell tower.
It’s certainly the most ornate and most spec-
tacular campanile on the island, and perhaps
for miles around.
Ložišća is a rare example of rural Mediter-
ranean architecture absolutely untouched
by modern life and in a spectacular setting.
But it stands half deserted, its façades
crumbling and its gardens, vineyards and
olive groves neglected. It’s a place of beauty
and of sadness.
Milna
Peaceful, romantic Milna was once a centre of industry on Brač, and today is a
restful holiday resort and marina. The coastal settlement was founded by the
inhabitants of inland Nerežišća who sought relief here from the harsher weather
inland. Due to its sheltered position, protected from harsh winds and almost never
covered by snow. Milna is on a double-headed inlet, which apart from offering
exceptionally good shelter to boats from bad weather has two fertile valleys
produced by silt being washed down the mountains by the rain.
The town grew up in the 16th century around a fort and the Church of St Mary,
both built by the wealthy Cerinić family from Nerežišća. The fort is the square
building with a colonnade often referred to by the locals as Anglišćina, or the
English castle, although it has no such roots. The church is an attractive baroque
confection with an open sided belfry.
Milna was once a rather busy industrial centre.
19th century Milna was an important centre of
shipbuilding on the Adriatic, turning out the sturdy
wooden bracera - a typical Dalmatian boat origi-
nating from Brač island. However, this industry
died with the advent of the steamboat. The town
was once a stop on the Venice to Split steamboat
line, and was connected to the mainland by ferry
until the 1980s. An old fish processing factory
is still in use today, turning out some delicious
specialities. The grand buildings you’ll see lining
the waterfront are the homes of ship owners
and sea captains. Towards the north end of the
harbour is a renovated stone cottage, once the
trading premises of the monks from the Blaca
hermitage, their window onto the world.
Although Milna’s golden age has passed, the
marina and the tourist trade bring many sum-
mer visitors. Brač is so close to the mainland that many residents of Split have
a second home in places such as Milna, often intending to retire to the island.
However, the lively voices emanating from the attractive primary school suggest
that this is by no means a population intending to slide into oblivion.
Visitors will certainly take a second look at the pretty fountain in front of the school,
the work of famous Brač sculptor Ivan Rendić. A monument on the waterfront
celebrates poet Tin Ujević (1891-1955), whose mother was from Milna. Ujević,
one of the greatest Croatian poets of all time, also a translator and essayist,
was an eternal bohemian inspired by the spirit of the Mediterranean throughout
his life and career.
Milna has a 5km coastal footpath leading to some delightful beaches and coves.
To the south of the town is an inlet named Osibova, reckoned by locals to be the
cleanest spot for bathing on the island. There is also a chapel there, as well as
the ruins of an older one.
In front of Milna’s bay lies the islet of Mrduja. Many legends surround it, but a
fact is it used to be set alight to guide ships safely through the narrow channel
between Brač and Šolta to their destination at Split harbour. In 1806, the citi-
zens of Milna also used fires to aid the Russians in defeating Napoleon’s fleet,
warning them of the number of enemy ships. Following the victory, the Russians
established a base in Milna, which for one year enjoyed the status of island
capital under the Tsar.
Murvica
Tiny Murvica can be reached by a dirt
track from Bol or from the sea. The
hamlet is a collection of houses backed
right up against a rocky slope, overlook-
ing fertile fields and grapevines which
stretch right down to the water’s edge. By
the shore, stone homesteads lie among
vineyards enjoying views of the vivid blue
channel towards Hvar.
Murvica is an excellent starting point for
exploring the monastic colonies that were formed close by in the 15th century.
At that time the Ottoman armies succeeded in invading inland areas across the
channel, forcing Christian communities to flee. Many of them ended up on Brač.
Monastic colonies found shelter in the karst caves above Murvica, and from there
indefatigably began to build their communities. The oldest of these made its home
in the Dragon’s Cave (Zmajeva špilja or Drakonijeva špilja), founded between
the 9th and the 12th centuries. The cave is one hour’s steep hike uphill from
Murvica, and if you can cope with that we strongly suggest you visit. The other
communities are (moving from west to east) the Dutić convent (founded 1512),
the Dračeva luka hermitage (also 1512), the Silvio or Dubravčić convent (1497)
and Stipančić convent (1416). The monastic complexes are now disused, having
been abandoned between the two world wars as their inhabitants moved to less
remote places. If you are interested in sacral architecture, history or spectacular
scenery, a walking tour of this group of monasteries is highly recommended. The
Blaca hermitage is also within hiking distance from Murvica. See “What to see”
for more information on both Blaca and the Dragon’s Cave.
Nerežišća
Built alongside a large fertile field sweep-
ing down from the crest of a large hill
that forms the very backbone of the
island, Nerežišća is an old community
with a strong agricultural tradition. The
town occupies a strategic spot at the
intersection of roads connecting all the
other island settlements. For eight cen-
turies Nerežišća was the administrative
and religious centre of Brač and proudly
maintained its independence under Venetian, Hungarian and Croat-Hungarian
rule. Life on Brač was governed by the Brač Statute, a document dating from
the 13th century.
Nerežišća flourished in the Middle Ages, and eventually a class of wealthy land-
owners emerged. The island was governed from the Prince’s Palace (Knežev dvor)
which once stood next to the parish church. You can still see a stone column
bearing the Venetian lion which served as a base for a flagpole outside what was
once the palace. In the 19th century the local nobility lived a comfortable life here,
furnishing their fine houses in the manner fashionable in that period.
Apart from the rather stunning parish church of Our Lady of Carmel, dating from
the 13th century, a notable sight is the little chapel of St Peter which has a small
but not insignificant pine tree growing from the roof of its apse. Also close to
Nerežišća is a system of reservoirs named “Trolokve” or “the Three Lakes”.
These for centuries provided water for the people from the Nerežišća, Bol, Dol and
Pražnica territories. Today they are deserted, the lunar landscape is populated
only by sheep and the occasional herd of semi-wild ponies.
Novo selo
Novo Selo means “New Village”. Found-
ed in the 16th century, it is thought that
the village was settled by refugees from
the mainland fleeing from the Turks, as
well as inhabitants of other island com-
munities devastated by epidemics. The
town is at the top of a hill overlooking
the eastern edge of the island, with a
wonderful view over the channel towards
the Biokovo mountain range. The hill is
topped by the Church of the Assumption
of the Blessed Virgin Mary, which owes its present appearance to the frontage
and belltower added in 1894. There’s a stone-flagged square in front of the
church, a local gathering place.
All around Novo Selo you can see sculptures set along the roadsides. These are
the work of one Frane Antonijević. One of the few self-taught sculptors on the
island (the rest are mainly Academy educated), Mr Antonijević is simply compelled
to work with stone. His tiny workshop bears testament to his passion. Visitors are
welcome and works are for sale, please see “What to see” for details.
Postira
Postira’s location on a wide bay exposed to the open sea gives the place a feeling
of light and space. The name “Postira” is thought to derive from the Latin word
“pastura”, meaning “pasture”, while local legend connects the name with the verb
“prostirati”, or “to lay out”, referring to the habit of the women from nearby Dol
of coming here to wash their clothes at the freshwater spring (“Vrilo”), laying out
their clothes out to dry on the shore.
This little coastal village is as much an agricultural community as a fishing village
thanks to the fertile fields that lie above the town, where olives, fruit and vegetables
are grown. Postira has the island’s first sardine factory, which was established in
1907. Today it specialises in canning oily fish such as sardines and mackerel, and
employs almost 300 people. A plan to move the factory to new premises on the
edge of town was announced in 2010, freeing up the waterfront for tourism.
This meeting of the fruits of the sea and the hinterland is good news for the tour-
ist: this is an excellent place to enjoy good food. Postira is fortunate in having
three small privately-owned hotels offering an excellent standard of service
and accommodation to guests appreciate a tranquil village atmosphere and
pristine surroundings.
There are numerous sites of archaeological interest around Postira, perhaps
the most important being the sandy cove at Lovrečina. Here, close to a fresh-
water spring lie the ruins of a Roman villa rustica, a Benedictine convent and
the early Christian basilica of St Lawrence (5th to 6th century). In the churchyard
stands a cross-shaped, canopied baptistry. Around the basilica fragments of
frescoes and Early Christian sarcophagi are to be found. This is a delightful
spot and the remains are spectacular, we highly recommend a visit.
Postira is also a centre of culture on the island. It’s the birthplace of sculptors,
master builders and poets. Poet Vladimir Nazor was born in the Renaissance
palace on Postira’s waterfront. His first work, “The Angel in the Bell Tower”,
was a story about Postira’s parish Church of St John the Baptist. Postira is
renowned for its cobbled streets made of smooth rounded stones laid out in
ornate patterns, with sensuous forms inspiring many a photographer.
Povlja
Approaching Povlja by road, the first sight of the village clustered on a headland
and framed by the Biokovo mountains across the channel is rather special.
Povlja overlooks the bustling mainland resorts of the Makarska Riviera, which
is one reason why the village is a popular destination for day-trippers. The other
is the presence of some first-class monuments. Povlja’s parish church is built
next to the extensive ruins of a large basilica from the 5th to 6th centuries and
the remains of a Benedictine monastery with a defensive tower.
Povlja is also famous for two historic documents: the Povlja Charter, written on
parchment, documents land possessed by the monastery, a very early example
of this type of legal document and the first example on the island written in
the bosančica script; and the Povlja Lintel, engraved in the same script by
a famous stonemason named Radonja memorialising his contribution to the
church, and that of a prince named Brečko who donated land for the building
of the church. The original is preserved in the Archaeological Museum in Split,
and a copy is on display at the Native Museum in Škrip.
Pražnica
Pražnica is an ancient rural settlement laid out in a typical straggling fashion.
Here one can most easily hear the diversity of dialects still to be found on the
island. The name Pražnica is thought to derive from the word “pržiti” - to scorch,
due to the practice of burning vegetation to increase the fertility of the land.
Pražnica grew up from even older settlements and the surrounding countryside
is strewn with churches and chapels. One of the most remarkable is the 13th
century chapel of St Cyprian in Pražnica’s churchyard. The chapel possesses a
stone triptych (1467) credited to Nicholas of Florence, a leading Tuscan sculptor
of the Renaissance period. This is a remarkably expressive work important in
the history of art of Dalmatia.
Pućišća
Pučišča, the second largest town on
Brač, grew up in the 15th century
when pirate attacks on the coast
ceased, emboldening the island-
ers to descend to the shore. The
town has been lent a colourful air
from a mix of architecture. Peasant
cottages perch up the hill while the
homes of the wealthy and fine public
buildings line the waterfront. Due to
the ongoing threat of Turkish inva-
sion from the mainland, thirteen forts were built to protect the town. Some of
these are still standing today.
Due to the closeness of the stone quarries, and perhaps out of a contempla-
tive intimacy enforced by the need to stay close to the protective forts, a rich
cultural life developed in Pučišča. Many writers found their voice here, and the
town is the home of stonemasonry and sculpture on the island possessing
the only secondary school specialising in stonemasonry in Europe. There is an
annual summer music school in the town, and the town was a centre for the
development of the Croatian language. Under the loggia of the renaissance
palace next to the Ciprijan Žuvetić fort is the door leading to the first Croatian
language reading room on the island. In the summer months a festival of culture
encompasses everything from classical music, jazz and pop concerts to book
readings, theatre and folklore performances.
Apart from the school of stonemasonry, the parish church of St Jerome with its
Gothic façade and attractive red cupola is worth visiting. Next to the parish church
is the red town hall building, guarded by two stone lions. The rectory houses the
Povlja Charter, an important historical document (see Povlja). The cemetery church
of the Blessed Virgin Mary has an impressive relief of the Madonna and Child. A
16th century waterfront palace belonging to the Dešković family now serves as
a luxurious small hotel. Brač sculptor Branislav Dešković was born there; you can
see his works in the art gallery named in his honour in Bol.
Selca
An inland village but so close to the sea you can
smell it, Selca is full of life. The town square is
dominated by the stunning parish Church of Christ
the King (1921-1955) built in a neo-Romanesque
style, with decorations drawing on Early Christian
and gothic architecture. On the lovely, elongated
stone square in front of the church shade is provided
by palm, fig and other Mediterranean trees. Here
there is another pleasant, simple church of Our Lady
of Carmel built in the 18th to 19th centuries. Stone
plaques on the wall of the square opposite testify to
an annual symposium of poets held here. Every year
one poem is chosen to represent the spirit of the
meeting. A plaque is raised in the poet’s honour with
a few lines of the poem engraved thereon.
Selca has a lovely little marketplace, a pitch for
boules and a park with the world’s first monument
to Leo Ilych Tolstoy, raised just one year after his death. The area around the parish
church is also decorated with statues, including a bust by leading sculptor Anton
Augustinčić of politician and impassioned supporter of Croatian independence
Stjepan Radić (1871-1928). Selca developed a rather cosmopolitan outlook in the
19th and 20th century. Martin Kukučin-Bencur, a leading Slovak writer, worked
in Selca as a doctor from 1893 and was a member of a cultural society called
Hrvatski sastanak (“The Croatian Meeting”) under the patronage of progressive
bishop Josip Juraj Strossmayer. Selcan students who studied in Prague and Graz
brought home new ideas from the mainland. Selca is still today a centre of culture,
nurturing sculpture, poetry and literature.
Selca’s orderly urban centre looks very different from in the village’s medieval
beginnings, when it was a highly dispersed community of individual homes and
tiny shepherds’ hamlets. Some such hamlets still exist today, such as Smrčevik,
Osritke, Nakal, Nagorinac, Nadsela and Zagvozd. If you are interested in seeing
them, from Selca take the road to Gornji Humac and turn off where you see the
sign “Zaseoci”. The isolated, self-sufficient homes there afford the best picture
of the very beginnings of habitation on the island.
Splitska
Splitska is a quiet village where houses with lush green gardens bump right up
against a shallow fishing harbour. There are two reasons to visit Splitska. One is
to enjoy long summer days strolling along the quiet waterfront to reach a rocky
cove which you may just have to yourself, and evenings over a simple meal and
a glass of wine, and perhaps a game of chess or cards. The other is to see the
ancient Rasohe quarry, where in Roman times slave workers carved into the rock
face a relief of Hercules, a symbol of strength and a demigod with the power to
protect communities from harm.
Splitska in Roman times acted as a port from where the white Brač stone was
taken to Split, among other things for the construction of Diocletian’s palace. In
the waters around Splitska, great pieces of stone lie on the seabed, accidentally
fallen from the Roman ships.
Although there is evidence of settlement as early as the 13th century, at that time
pirate attacks prevented the communities that tried to settle there from putting
down roots, forcing them to retreat to Škrip. The town started to grow around the
16th century around the fortified manor of the Cerinić family, which still stands
on the waterfront, one of the best preserved fortifications on the island today.
Splitska also gained a palace, the seat of one of the Brač princes.
Sumartin
The youngest of Brač’s settlements, Sumartin was founded on 11 November
1646 when refugees from the Dalmatian interior and from Bosnia and Herzegovina
arrived, fleeing from the wars between the Venetians and the Turks. The origins
of the citizens of Sumartin can still be detected in their dialect, which is closer to
standard Croatian than that elsewhere on the island, as well as in their folk dress
and customs. The village is more strongly connected with the sea than many other
Brač settlements, the reason being that there was no land available in the interior
for the newcomers to farm. The villagers therefore became skilful seafarers and
fishermen. The tradition of building wooden boats here continues to this day.
Among the settlers arriving from the mainland were Franciscan monks who arrived
in 1645. In 1747 friar and poet Andrija Kačić Miošić initiated the building of a new
monastery here when he was elected abbot of Sumartin. The monastery has a
pleasing atmosphere, modest gardens and vegetable patches, and is well worth
a visiting for its museum collection (What to see). The attractive, tall Church of
St Martin you see today by the monastery was built between 1911 and 1913 on
the site of an older church. As a plaque outside testifies, in 1944 the monastery
was taken over for use as a German hospital and the monks were forced to leave.
The bell tower of the church was destroyed in the extensive bombing of the town
and rebuilt in 1955.
Sumartin still enjoys a direct connection with the mainland thanks to a regular
ferry to Makarska. With its laid-back atmosphere, clean sea and shingly coves,
it’s a good holiday place for people who prefer an authentic village atmosphere
to a bustling resort.
Supetar
Summer evenings in Supetar are lively:
children run around the square, grown-
ups exchange news on the waterfront,
tourists select their spot for an evening
meal and swifts scream overhead. The
stone buildings turn pink in the setting
sun, and the feeling is a very relaxed one.
The town beaches offer ample facilities
for sport and leisure, there are nightly folklore performances in town during the
tourist season, there’s a summer carnival and a film festival: in short, enough to
keep almost everyone occupied.
If you’re arriving from the mainland, Supetar will very
likely be your first port of call. The town is home
to one fifth of the island’s population, a veritable
metropolis in island terms. It’s a transport hub
and has several large-ish hotels. On the shore
to the west of the town centre there are shingle
beaches backed by cafés, bars, fast food eateries
and nightclubs, as well as sports grounds and play
areas. With the island’s main bus station to hand,
Supetar is also a good base from which to explore
the rest of the island.
The focal point of the town is a waterfront lined
with cafés, bars and restaurants. A large space in
front of the church and clock tower serves as the
main square. The parish Church of St Peter and St
Paul, often known by its secondary name of the
Annunciation of the Blessed Virgin, was built in the 18th century on the site of
a basilica dedicated to St Peter (hence the name Supetar) thought to date from
the 6th century, and of which mosaic paving can still be seen. The clock tower is
named the leroj (pron. “leroy”) and now serves as the atelier of artist Ivo Petrović
Michelangelo. At the entrance to the church museum is a statue of St Victor and
by the church courtyard of Mother Teresa, both the work of Brač sculptor Petar
Jakšić. The church interior is richly decorated with paintings, sculptures. A reliquary
of St Victor is paraded through the streets every May 2. To one side of the church
the former rectory now serves as the church museum (see “What to see”).
In Supetar, as in almost all the Brač settlements, the influence of art is very
strong. One of the town’s best loved figures is Ivan Rendić (1849-1932), a bon
vivant and larger than life character widely held to be the father of modern Croatian
sculpture. A gallery of his works is on the first floor of the town library building.
A statue female figure on the little lawn nearby is titled Allegory of the Mind,
created by Rendić for the insurance company Austrian Lloyd Trieste. Just across
the street is the chapel of St Martin which is used as an exhibition space. A little
further along the quayside is a sculpture called The Water Carrier by Paško Čulo,
a contemporary local sculptor.
One of the most inspiring spots in Supetar is its cemetery, which like most
cemeteries on the island occupies one of the most beautiful shoreline locations,
here on a headland west of the town. The cemetery is a museum of sculpture,
showcasing many of Rendić’s works, from a relief of the Pietà to sensual female
forms, art deco mosaics and ironwork and family mausoleums. Rendić’s own
resting place is also here, a restrained stone slab. Visible from the ferry is the
white form of the Petrinović family mausoleum, which infuriatingly enough for
Rendić was entrusted to sculptor Toma Rosandić when the former had already
carried out preliminary work on the project. Nevertheless, Rosandić did a splendid
job, the mausoleum is a stunning and most unusual piece of architecture, with
rounded, almost Byzantine forms. The same sculptor’s masterful wellhead stands
close to the mausoleum.
The headland is also the site of Roman buildings such as the Early Christian chapel
of St Nicholas, a villa rustica and two beautiful Early Christian sarcophagi. This
spot was the first to be inhabited on this part of the coast, but was abandoned
in the Middle Ages due to those pesky pirates. Today’s town grew up gradually,
populated by settlers from Nerežišća, Donji Humac and Škrip. First a few rows of
TOWNS & vIllAGES TOWNS & vIllAGES
TowNS & VILLAGeS
peasant cottages were built; then, following fortification by the Venetians in the
16th century, tall town houses appeared on the waterfront. The town developed
rapidly due to its excellent position opposite Split’s harbour. In 1828, Supetar
became the island’s capital.
Sutivan
With its broad skies, overlooking the Dinaric Alps on the mainland, with good light
and bracing white pebble beaches, it’s not difficult to see why Sutivan developed
a tourist trade quite early in the island’s history. The first hotel was built in 1927,
and two years later the town was the third busiest resort on the island, following
Supetar and Bol. Sutivan still holds this position, despite having no functioning
hotels. There is ample private accommodation, thus Sutivan is a good choice for
those who enjoy the chance to experience the local atmosphere.
An early form of tourism is visible in Sutivan’s beautiful summer residences. The
poet Jerolim Kavanjin (1643-1714), a resident of Split whose mother was from
Sutivan, completed his summer residence here in 1705. It’s fair to assume he
found Sutivan’s air energising: he was responsible for writing the longest poem
in the Croatian language - all 32,658 verses of it.
Sadly, the Kavanjin palace is now in an advanced state of decay. Although Dalmatia
offers so much of what is needed for a full and healthy life, the forces of history
have sparked great waves of emigration. Thus, so many of the beautiful, historic
buildings you’ll see here are suffering the same fate: scores of heirs, co-owners
of the property, are scattered over the globe, and if they were all alive and trace-
able it would be difficult enough to decide the fate of these properties. Let’s hope
a solution is found in time to prevent these marvellous buildings succumbing to
the ravages of time.
TOWNS & vIllAGES
Another prominent if rather less spacious
building on the waterfront is the 17th century
Marijanović citadel, a squat tower with a
sundial on its southern face. A blue plaque on
this building indicates that tourists can rent
a room here. Sutivan also boasts a fortified
palace built by the Nadali-Božičević family in
1505. Although this extensive building has
undergone many changes, at least it is in
good repair and is a charming sight. There is
a large park on the south side of the palace.
Also of note is the Definis complex which
once had a luxurious Biedermeier interior, a
medical library and some fine miniature por-
traits. The complex is currently undergoing
renovation. And perhaps the most unusual
home in the town is a windmill, denuded of
its sails, which is now someone’s rotund
beachside home.
As is the case with many settlements, Sutivan is named after its patron saint,
St John (Sv. Ivan in Croatian), since the earliest church in the locality, a 6th
century Early Christian basilica, was consecrated to St John the Baptist. Today’s
chapel of St John (11th century) stands close by this site, and is notable for its
ichthys, a primitive drawing of a fish, the oldest Christian symbol. The remains
of a monastery are also nearby.
In the heart of the town rises the parish church of the Assumption of Mary in
pale yellow and white stone, which together with its stone-flagged courtyard
takes on warm hues in the early evening sun. And it’s certainly worth the seven
minute walk uphill to the little votive chapel of St Rocco with its cemetery
with catacombs.
Lest we end on a note that suggests that Sutivan is anything other than lively,
we should tell you that the town is particularly noted for putting on a host of
events. See our Culture and Events pages to find out what’s on. And last but
not least, this is a brilliant place for adventure sports: see our Sport pages.
Škrip
Apart from the tiny shepherd’s
hamlets, Škrip is the oldest
settlement on Brač and is a
rich archaeological and cul-
tural depository, a testament
to human habitation from Illyrian
times to the present day. The
name comes from the Latin
word “scrupus” meaning the
large rough stones mined in
the nearby quarries from which
the place is built. Škrip has a wild, primeval beauty juxtaposed with beauti-
fully preserved peasant architecture with snow-white roofs evoking a strong
sense of nostalgia. Brač’s Native Museum is here - a visit is an absolute must
if you want to better understand the island past and present. See our “What
to see” pages.
Building in Škrip started in earnest during Illyrian times, as the remains of
massive defensive walls confirm. It is thought that their purpose was to keep
the Greeks out: the Illyrians happily traded with the Greeks, but fiercely de-
fended their independence. Then followed the Romans, who in their imperial
confidence felt little need for fortifications and so expressed their spiritual
side instead. There is a mausoleum in the base of the tower in the museum
complex, there are countless sarcophagi in the area (so much so that they are
used as domestic receptacles), there is an inscription in the graveyars, there
are sacrificial monuments and it is believed that a Roman temple lies under
the graveyard. The pond hollowed into the rock by the cemetery is just one of
many that the Romans made on Brač to ensure a supply of water.
Following the arrival of the Croatians, apart from the peasant homesteads two
stately homes were built in the 16th century: the complex around the Radojković
tower (the latter in fact being made up of layers from all three eras) and the
massive Cerinić fort. These fortifications served to defend Škrip during the
Ottoman-Venetian wars. The parish church of St Helen of the Cross was built
at the turn of the 19th century. In the cemetery behind are two small churches,
the basilica of the Holy Ghost and the chapel of St John (in ruins). The edge
of the cemetery affords a spectacular view over the karst hills. In this eerie,
windy spot you feel as if you are somewhere very ancient, a million miles from
the ice cream parlours and arcade games of the beach resorts.
TOWNS & vIllAGES
Ferry line to Split
Malačnica
Luka Supetar
U. Vela luka
U. Mutnik
U. Mirca
Duboka u.
L. Sutivan
U. Majakovac
U. Livka
U. Stipanska
U. Svićuraj
U. Martinovica
U. Stipanska
U. Stiniva
U. V. Tiha
U. M. Tiha
U. Mihoj dolac
Vića
Kupinova u.
U. Pasika
Vlaška u.
L. Milna
U. Makarac
M. bok
U. Krvaca
U. Platac
U. Grmine
U. Salbunara
U. Potstupe
U. Široki Vranjac
Osibova u.
U. Smokvina
U. Špaciniza
Donji Turski bok
Srednji Turski bok
Gornji Turski bok
Vela Grška u.
Mala Grška u.
U. Smrka
U. Lučica
U. Krušica
Blaca
U. Lozna
M. Farska
Smrčeva u.
U. V.
Zagradac
U. M.
Zagradac
Slatina
Dračeva
U. Paklina U. Potočine
U. Lučica
Tužna u.
Bogodol u.
U. Konjska
U. Hrvaska
U. M. Hrvaska
U. Spiljice
U. M. Zvirje
U. V. Zvirje
U. Zabriška
U. Potok
U. V. Studena
U. M. Studena
Treća vala
Druga vala
Sumartin
U. Sv. Rok
U. Žukovik
U. Rasotica
U. Zvirje
U. Linovac
U. Voščica
U. Tatinja
Ključna u.
Tičja u.
Ferry line
to Makarska
Line to Hvar Island
Lučice
U. Slavinjina
Duboka u.
U. Babin laz
U. Vela lučica
Mala lučica
U. Zastup
U. Grabova
U. Prvija
Luka Postire
Lozna m.
Trstena u.
Lozna vrela
Lovrečina u.
Dučac u.
Konopljikova u.
U. Klinica
U. Prapatna
Prodol
U. Težišče
U. Sladiola
Česminova u.
U. Bataruša
Luka Pučišće
U. Veselje
Kupinova u.
Duboka u.
U. Lozna
Konopljikova u.
U. Smokvica
U. Otočac
V. Travna u.
Mala Travna u.
Luka
U. Točinjak
U. Bognja
L. Povlja
U. Splitska
U. Koromaslinova
V. maslinova
Mala maslinova
SUPETAR
SUTIVAN
SPLITSKA
POVLJA
SUMARTIN
SELCA
POSTIRA
MILNA
GORNJI
HUMAC
DONJI
HUMAC
PRAŽNICA
LOŽIŠĆA
NEREŽIŠĆA
PUČIŠĆA
BOL
Škrip
Dol
Bobovišća
Novo Selo
Dračevica
Murvica
Otok
Mrduja
Mirca
Luka
Bobovišća
Rt Sv.
Nikola
Rt
Gomilica
Rt
Bijaka
Rt
Zaglav
Rt
Ražanj
Rt Kobila
Rt
Vranjac
Rt
Hum
Rt
Križ
M. Zastup
Grižev
rt
Zlatni rat
Rt
Gališnjak
Rt
Debelo
čelo
Rt Studena
Rt Oplovac
Rt
Sumartin
Rt Sv. Rok
Rt Planik
Rt
Povlja
Rt Zastup
Rt Sv.
Nikola
Gornji rt
Crni rat
Zubatni
ratac
Blacina
glava
Zamorski
rat
Rt
Drasina
Grabov rat
Tičji rat
Velebić
Murvice
P r i h o d
Ribni doci
S t r a ž i š ć e
Brizi
Velebit
Gnjilac
Kraljevica
Čelo
Cminje brdo
Zvirin dolac
Oštri humac
Celina
Žeženik
Klopotina
Mali hrastovik
Vela visoka
J e r k o v i c a
Greben
Torca
Stražice
Punta
Blacina gl.
V. kuk
Humčac
Humac
Čelca
Rači
Kraljevica
Grška
Dub
P e t r i ć r a v a n
Ivan dolac
Glavice
Vlaška
S m r k a
V. hum
Srčena gomila
Čelo
Brdo
Kalina
Z a g l a v
Golo br.
P e t r a l e
S t i p a n s k a
Vran kamen
P o s t a r e
Gnjili dolac
N e r e z i n e
Hum
T u s t i b r i g
Plitvine
Spilice
Kaline
S r č e n a
S t i n i c e
Crna korita
Propad
Pustinja Blaca
Smrčen dolac
K r a k o r i n a
F a r s k i d o l a c
Debelo čelo
Malo čelo
Kuk
M a t r i n j a č a
Dugi dolac
O r i š l j e
R a n k e
Zastupnina
Galote
Krnji rat
D u g o n j a
Prvi dol
Prismen
Velo brdo
Činjadra
Vodiški dolac
Jastreb dolac
Strmica
Strioško brdo
V. čelo
V e l i b r i g
Dučac
Krušev dolac
Gripe M. Bračuta
Čad Bile njive
Mali ratac
Gole glavice
Kruška
D u b l j e
V e l a s l a t i n a
Glavica
Tučje
J a s e n o v a c
Zagvozd
Blato
B u n j i c e
Zečevo
Gračišće
Hum
Kale
Bunje
Vejak
Visoka
Smrčevik veli
Debelo čelo
Pliš
V r i s j e Zvirje
B r d o
Hum
Humačac
Brkata
Biskup
Velević
D r i n
Prodole
Humačac
P o l j e
Gračišće
Veščić
Grahote
V e š k o p o l j e
U n i š ć a
Borova gl.
Zela gl.
Veli borovik
M. Gažul V. Gažul
Oštrog
Šćipon dolac
V. Grečišće
V. čelo
Vidova gora
V. Koštilo
Malo Koštilo
Š a r e n i c a
Mišinica
Vestac
S m o k o v j e
Orisci
V r n i c a
D r a m o t i n
Mladinje brdo
B e z m i n j a c
Pod spilje
Bućin dolac
Makova gl. Gradina
Mali brig
M i r j e
Plate
Punta
Mutnik
G a j
R a v a n
Z a m a s l i n j a c i
S m o k v i c a
Dubravice
V r š o v i c a
S v e t i J u r a j
Dragon
dolac
Ž e ž e n i k
D r a g o n j i k
K o p r i v e
F a n t o v i d o l c i
L a š n j i k
P u d i l i n a
Murviški dolac
P r a j c a š u m a
Z a g r a d a c
Planiški dolac
L i v a n j r a t
K r u š i c e
P r o d o l i n e
M i š a r i c a
Dragovode
Mišja prodol
Dubovi hunčac
Š i r o k i d o l c i
Vrankamen
H u m
Gromin dolac
Mihoj dolac
Z u b a t n i r a t a c
R a v n e
V e l a s m r č a
R a v a n
V e l i k i d o l a c S t o m o r i c a
V e l a g l a v a
S m r i č j a
P l a n i k o v a c
R e b r a
O š l j i r a t
P l e t e n i k
R u d i n e
Mali borovik
R a š i j a č a
B a b i n l a z
M i l o v i c a
V e l a s t r a n a
D o l
Kruševe njive
O k l a d
P r a p a t n a
V e l a B r a č u t a
S m o ć d o l a c
Strmoglave
D u b r a v e
S t r i ž i n d o l a c
B e n e d i j a
L o z o v i k
Piščenjak
Mihanji dolac
P o d g u s t i r n a
Z a v e l o b r d o
Dubova vrata
S m r č e v a c
Grbavica
Sobačev dolac
G r i m a č
Z e l e n i k o v a c
B r i z i
Gluha smokva
Podjamje
S t r i ž a c i
S o b a č e v i c e
O g r a d a
J a s e n o v i d o c i
C r n i c a
Mala staza
V e l a s t a z a
B a l j e n i k
P l i š i v a c
R a h o t a c
O r l o v i c e
N j i v e
B r š ć a n i k
D r a ž e v a c
Sapnica
S E L A Č K I Z A S E O C I
S r i d a
S m o k o v a c
L a š ć a t n a
G o r a n j i c a
Stražice
B r i g
D o č i n e
Žaganj dolac
Solinski dolac
Š i r o k i d o l a c
M r a t i n j e b r d o
S t a n o v i š u m a
M o š u l j e
Jasenovo brdo
G r a b o v a c
Goč dolina
C r n i r a t
D o n j e b r d o
Č i s t i d o c i
Male Galine
Zastine
Stanišće
Grabova glava
O g r a d a
Zala strana
L o v r e č i n e
Obršje
Planica
Farska
Smrka
Oklade
Nadsela
Nakal
Osridke
Podsmrčevik
Lokanjac
Rasotica
Puntinak
Fantovi Dolci
Kamenolom
Kamenolom
Kamenolom
Kamenolom
Kamenolom
Kamenolom
Kamenolom
Kamenolom
Deponij otpada
Kamenolom
Deponij
otpada
Deponij
kamenolom
Sv. Martin
Gospa od Pompeja
Sv. Ivana
Krstitelja
Sv.
Josip
Sv. Marija
Sv. Vicenc
Groblje
Spomenik
Domovinskog
rata
Sv.
Spiridon
Gospe
Stomorice
Most
Franje
Josipa
Podhume
Sv. Ilija
Sv.
Luka
Sv. Rok
Sv. Jakov
Sv. Lucija
Stipančići
Zmajeva pećina
Ostaci
crkvice
sv. Vid
Sv.
Barbara
Sv. Vid
Sv.
Petar
Sv.
Rok
Muzej u
Škripu
Rimski
kamenolom
Ostaci crkvice
sv. Jadro
Ostaci
ranokršćanskog
naselja
Sv. Juraj
Sv. Duh
Sveta Lucija
Dominikanski
samostan
Sv. Pavel
Sv. Mihovil
Sv. Marija
Sv. Juraj
Sv. Klement
Svi Sveti
Sv. Nedilja
Sv. Kuzma
Šuma
Divlja
kruška
Sv. Ivan
i Pavao
Kaštil
Sv. Ante
Sv. Nikola
Sv. Toma
Airport
Dračeva
Luka
Kolač
Sv. Juraj
Pčelinjak
Manastir
Blaca
Lokva
Poganica
Kopačina
Duboki
dolac
Trolokve
Bortun
Podgažul Nagorinac
Sv. Trojstvo
79
79
79
79
79
79
79
79
79
79
79
79
79
79
79
78
78
78
78
78
78
78
78
78
78
78
78
78
78
78
77
77
77
77
77
77
77
77
75
75
75
75
75
74
74
74
74
72
72
72
72
72
72
72
72
72
72
72
72
72
72
72
72
72
71
71
71
71
71
60
60
60
60
60
60
52
52
52
42
42
42 42
42
42
24
24
24
24
24
24
24
24
21
21
21
21
21
11
11
11
11
11
11
11
10
10
10
10
10
10
10
N
1
1
Main Highway
Regional Highway
Asphalt Road
Unpaved Road
Carriageway
Marked Path
Path
Disused Path
Sight Point
Spring of water
Plash
Well
Monument
Chapel or church
Museum
Cave
Lighthouse
Campground
Petrol Station
Airport
Regular boat line
Biking Route start
Biking Route
Scale 1:42000 | 1 cm = 420 m
0 2000 m