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<strong>Chapter</strong> 3<br />
Reed Davis, aging roué and eternal raconteur, demi-god of the Ubud expat tribe,<br />
had made his first fortune in Balinese hair.<br />
"I was dabbling in the usual, antiques and art," he told Tina Briddle. "In<br />
Singapore I met this Chinese guy from New York who traded anything, including hair.<br />
Said he'd buy all the hair I could get. I'd never heard of such a thing, but when I put the<br />
word out, I had people coming to me from everywhere."<br />
The two reclined on rattan couches on the verandah of the bungalow that Reed<br />
had called home for the last forty years. Overlooking a lush ravine, with a stream<br />
gurgling through volcanic boulders, the bungalow had been one of the first expat<br />
residences in the hinterlands of Ubud. Now, Tina thought, the bungalow felt cramped,<br />
hemmed it by the spa resorts and grand villas sprawling upstream and down. The<br />
verandah melded into an elevated, open-air living room decorated with an eclectic mix of<br />
antiques and art and plants. On the walls were several of Reed's famous photographs, of<br />
palm-fringed shores and terraced fields and majestic volcanoes. <strong>One</strong> of the few portrait<br />
shots was a black-and-white of two girls in school uniforms playing hopscotch, the boxes<br />
chalked on an asphalted road. <strong>One</strong> of the girls was caught in mid-jump, her pigtail flying,<br />
her long afternoon shadow trailing after her.<br />
These days of computers and iPods and X-Boxes, Balinese children no longer<br />
played hopscotch. The photo, and the landscapes, was of a long-ago Bali that Tina only<br />
knew as romanticized myth. When she first met Reed as an anthropology graduate<br />
student doing field work for her doctorate, that Bali had already faded, although not Reed<br />
Davis. He was now seventy or so and still a handsome man in a salted cod sort of way, if<br />
a cod could be said to have strong patrician features.<br />
"It was the best hair in the world, no chemicals, no dyes," Reed said. "Some<br />
women had their hair to their knees. My God, it was like chopping down two thousand<br />
year old redwoods. I begged them not to cut it, but I was paying good money, more than<br />
their own wigmakers, so they insisted on selling it."<br />
Tina patted her hair, which frizzed like copper wire. "Mine's all natural," she said,<br />
"but I don't think I'd get much."<br />
"I told Harry I wanted a premium. This was Balinese hair. He told me it wasn't<br />
any different than other Asian hair but I said, man, it's the name. Bali. Genuine Bali hair.<br />
The cachet, you know? His big clients were Hollywood and Broadway. It was just the<br />
craziest improvised business. Nothing I went to Harvard for, that was for sure, but I was<br />
making money hand over fist." He hoisted the vodka bottle from the coffee table.<br />
"Another drink?"<br />
Tina had barely touched her first. "I have to drive back to Batu Gede. The traffic's<br />
already crazy enough without me being tipsy."<br />
8