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iggest thief of all. The gap-toothed fellow was also spying on Reed for the PKI. This<br />
worked to Reed's advantage, because Reed had warned Ompreng that if anything went<br />
missing in his house, a plate or a lantern or a towel, he'd march right down to the PKI<br />
office and tell them. The Reds might be back-stabbers, but they could also be fussy<br />
puritans. Ompreng scoffed at the cops, but he was in fear of his bosses.<br />
Ompreng was the in-house spy, but whenever Reed left the house, another man<br />
named Rustaman, or Rusty for short, had the duty of tailing him. As scrawny as<br />
Ompreng was muscled, Rusty lived in a shack right across the road. Whenever Reed<br />
took off in jeep, Rusty hopped on a motorized bicycle whose toy engine couldn't handle<br />
the hills. Rusty had to pump hard on the pedals. It was easy enough to lose him, but more<br />
often than not Reed would kindly wait for him to catch up, panting and sweating.<br />
Today when Reed eased his jeep down his dirt lane to the main road, Rusty was<br />
sleeping in his hammock. Reed honked his horn. Rusty jerked awake. Spotting Reed in<br />
the jeep, his eyes widened in alarm, and he swung out of the hammock, tripping over his<br />
feet.<br />
"I'm going to Den Pasar," Reed called out. "Buying coffee and butter at Hwa<br />
Chen's. Maybe some illegal Coca-Cola, but don't tell anybody about that." He trundled<br />
off with a wave. He wasn't exactly lying, because he did plan to go shopping, but his first<br />
stop was Batu Gede, and he didn't want Rusty tagging along.<br />
Reed's jeep was a World War II Willys with left-hand steering that made for some<br />
excitement when Reed overtook lumbering buses on the narrow lane winding through the<br />
terraced fields. A few times he'd barely escaped a head-on collision from an oncoming<br />
vehicle. His friend the artist Tjok Arsana had painted the jeep front bumper to back with<br />
a landscape mural of Mount Agung and rice fields and jungle. Prominently featured on<br />
the hood and half-doors were long-nosed foreigners as monkeys, Tjok having using Reed<br />
as a model.<br />
Beyond a village of basket weavers, Reed turned off the main road for Batu Gede.<br />
The name meant "big rock", and Reed assumed it came from the volcanic hill<br />
overlooking the village, its peak swaddled with mature teak trees. Reed passed through a<br />
leafy corridor and down switchbacks to the edge of a mangrove swamp, the bushes a<br />
rumpled carpet of dull green giving way to sparkles of blue sea. A community of saltfarmers<br />
had long eked a living in a corner of cleared swamp, where evaporated salt pans<br />
glistened with crystals. In the past two years, more mangroves had been cleared by<br />
refugees whose villages and fields had been destroyed by Mount Agung's 1963 eruption.<br />
They lived in a ramshackle camp, their hovels constructed of whatever they could<br />
scrounge, from driftwood planks to rusted tin. Several men were chopping mangrove<br />
branches into firewood, and they stopped to stare at Reed's passing jeep with dull eyes.<br />
A rocky ridge flanked by an irrigation culvert separated the mangroves from a<br />
reef-protected lagoon and a white sand beach. The coconut groves fronting the beach<br />
gave way to rice fields. In contrast to the salt makers' hardscrabble lives, the rice farmers<br />
of Batu Gede lived more prosperously, or at least without the continual threat of<br />
starvation. The worst of the potholes on the road here had been patched with tar and<br />
crushed rock.<br />
On the outskirts of the large village was an old colonial house once occupied by a<br />
minor Dutch official. The house had a central hall with two wings, all three sections<br />
connected by a common porch. The left wing was evidently a private residence, with a<br />
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