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43 The Nose 5.9+
AKA Right to Flight and Russell’s Route. This
Gunks-like masterpiece is the finest moderate
Arkansas has to offer and alone is worth the
trip to Mag. A one-pitch 5.9 doesn’t get any
better, period. Start up Junior Achievement
and climb it for about 50ft to a ledge below
and left of the diving board. Traverse right,
and then climb out the incredible tiered
roof system to the top. From below this
route appears extremely difficult, but incut
horizontals provide great gear and monster
jugs for pulling the roofs. Rack to #4 Camalot,
optional doubles of a .75 and #1 Camalot (80’)
FA: Russell Rainey
climber: Andrew Childs
photo: Cole Fennel
35 36 38 39 40
41
34 37
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43
40 Okiehomo is OK 5.11a
Climb the first part of Rock Wrestlin’ to the
low ledge and then move onto the left face at
a bolt. Continue past a piece of gear and three
more bolts with sustained, dirty crimping to
the ledge level with Scarlet’s anchors. Finish
straight up with the quality, yet unhygienic,
face protected by horizontal cracks. Aim about
10ft left of the obvious cedar tree to a set of
anchors blocked from view.
4 bolts, Rack to #2 Camalot (80’) FA: Tony Morris
41 Rock Wrestlin’ 5.8
Make a few easy moves to gain the low
ledge and work up the (often wet) rightfacing
offwidth crack to another ledge. A
short section of easy chimneying melds into a
mellow finish. Belay from the obvious cedar.
No Anchors. Rack to #5 Camalot (80’)
42 Junior Achievement 5.7
Climb the left-facing dihedral with a quality
layback section midway up to an easy finish.
Belay from the obvious cedar.
No Anchors. Rack to #4 Camalot (80’)
FA: Randy Hayden, Jim Bodenhamer 02/84
The Nose
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40
44 45 46 47 48 51
49 52 53 54 55
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42
50
56 57 58
The Footstool
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60
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43 The Nose 5.9+
See opposite page.
MT. MAGAZINE
62 63 64 65 66
2-3min
to Queen for a Day
The Party Ledge Wall (routes 44-48) - These
routes all end on the spacious Party Ledge.
Good length and exposure accompany the
climbing.
44 Teenage Wasteland 5.8 PG
Begin in a crack five feet left of an obvious
left-facing dihedral capped by a low roof. Jam
up to a ledge and then climb a left-facing
dihedral to its end. Move up and left, into
a chossy crack system, and follow it around
the right side of a bulge to anchors on Party
Ledge. Rack to #4 Camalot (70’)
45 Pepsi Challenge 5.7+
Start just right of an arête at a three foot high
roof. Climb to a ledge at about 12ft and move
right into a left-facing dihedral that eventually
turns into a flake. Where the flake ends, run
out easy terrain up to a bolt and continue on
to Party Ledge. Set a directional and walk right
to Heartbreak Highway’s anchors.
1 bolt, SR (75’)
FA: Jim Bodenhamer, J.D. McCay, Mike Sanders, et al 02/84
46 Heartbreak Highway 5.10a
If this route saw a bit more traffic it would
most certainly receive three stars. Climb
the obvious, thin left-facing dihedral crack
through a low roof and continue past a
ledge and another minor roof to anchors on
Party Ledge. The small roofs provide the only
challenging climbing on the pitch. (70’)
FA: Kevin Short, Paul Holland 04/83
FFA: Jim Bodenhamer, Randy Hayden 02/84
47 Fishwife Freeway 5.9 PG
Begin in a right-facing dihedral with a low
roof. Pull over the cruxy roof and follow the
corner past a ledge and over another roof to
Party Ledge. Traverse left and share anchors
with Heartbreak Highway. Some of the rock
quality on the upper part of the pitch requires
careful maneuvering. (70’)
FA: Kevin Short 11/83
75

DARDANELLE ROCK
The Stark Wall – This wall, the most popular
section of D-Rock, is named after Stark Ligon
(D-Rock’s most prominent developer), even
though he openly resented the idea of having
any of the routes named after him. This may
be the reason why the names stuck so well.
The Stark Wall begins about 50ft uphill from
Orange Kush on the left side of a detached
flake. All of the routes here stay dry in the
rain, except for Antichrist Superstar and the
last move of Stark Naked, though the wall can
seep in a downpour.
7 The Dardanelle Aid Route 5.8 C1
This is likely one of the first lines done at
D-Rock. Just right of Antichrist, climb easy
cracks formed by the left side of the detached
flake up to a 20ft thin crack section leading to
anchors under the big roof. This pitch will go
free and looks to be in the hard 5.13 range.
1 bolt (55’)
8 Antichrist 5.11c
Start on a small, detached flake and move
up and right to the first bolt. A long move at
the second bolt unleashes the beta-intensive
pumpy finish. Lower off at the first set of
anchors. 5 bolts (45’) FA: Jason Cook 2006
9 Antichrist Superstar 5.13a
This is a four-bolt extension to Antichrist. A
crux sequence above the first set of chains
leads to a shake on a giant protruding block
below the roof. Bust another hard move over
the roof then continue with slightly-runout
5.10 climbing to the anchor. 10 bolts (75’)
FA: Jason Cook 2006
10 Rebel Yell 5.12a
A classic Yell county pump-fest. Interpret
committing as well as hard-to-read moves to
a good shake above the fourth bolt. Athletic
pulls then lead to the left-angling traverse
(usually the site of forearm failure) and into
the last few feet of Annihilator. Hard for the
grade. 8 bolts (60’)
FA: Cole Fennel 2009 Equipper: Jason Cook
11 Annihilator 5.12a
Stickclip the first bolt to protect the awkward
moves and gain a set of pockets at the first
bolt. From the pockets, dyno up and right to a
jug, and then work a series of difficult moves
to a good rest at the fourth bolt. One final
challenging move gives way to less difficult
climbing above. 6 bolts (55’) FA: Jason Cook 2006
88 www. ixed in.com
12 Annihilated 5.13a
Climb Annihilator to the anchors and continue
past a V6 boulder problem crux to a second set
of anchors. 8 bolts (65’) FA: Jason Cook 2006
13 The Stark-a-Nator 5.12b
This awesome link-up connects Annihilator’s
bouldery moves with the famed Stark Naked
finish via a leftward-diagonaling strata
comprised of classic Dardanelle mis-angled
holds. Begin the traverse at the fifth bolt of
Annihilator. 8 bolts (70’)
FA: Jason Cook 2009 Equipper: Cole Fennel
14 Stark Naked 5.12c
Stark Naked’s exceptional blend of power,
technique and endurance, mixed with the
famed redpoint crux traverse to the anchors
has earned it the crown-jewel status of D-Rock.
Start in a right-angling crack, bust out the
first hard move, and take advantage of the
route’s only true rest. From here the climbing
gets consistently harder and more technical.
A powerful and delicate boulder problem at
the last bolt is the single hardest move, but
the ensuing traverse to the arête stymies many
redpointers. 7 bolts (55’)
FA: Jason Cook 2007 Equipper: Stark Ligon
STARK WALL LINK-UPS
Listed below are the five most
prominent link-ups on the wall.
8a The Anti-Stark 5.12b
Climb all the way to the anchors atop
Antichrist (but don’t clip them to avoid
horrendous rope drag), make a committing
traverse left into Rebel Yell, and diagonal left
all the way into the ever-feared finish of Stark
Naked. 11 bolts
10a Yell Christ 5.11d
Climb Rebel Yell but at the sixth bolt traverse
up and right a few moves to the Antichrist
anchors. 6 bolts
10b Yell County Superstar 5.13a
Climb Yell Christ but extend the line to the
top via Antichrist Superstar. 11 bolts
10c The Naked Rebel 5.12b
An endurance test piece; very pumpy for the
grade. Start on Rebel Yell, but at the last bolt
traverse left into Stark Naked to face a heartbreaker
redpoint crux at the last bolt. 11 bolts
10d The Annihilated Rebel 5.13a
Climb Rebel Yell into Annihilated. 10 bolts
14
The Stark Wall
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11
12
10
DARDANELLE ROCK
8
9
89

IDAHO BOULDERS
North Idaho Boulders (31-60) – See
the approach description (p112) for how to
locate them.
Moondye Boulder
31 Frightened and Horny V0 !!
Wander up the fun, but incredibly tall lowangled
wall on good holds.
32 Chuck Wagon V4
Initiate on a low jug, work up to bad holds,
chuck for the obvious jug, and top out.
33 Cloud of Stars V9
Although originally graded V7, most people
feel this is the hardest line on the boulder.
From a good, low starting hold, climb straight
up to the left-leaning arête feature. Go big for
the lip.
34 Kung Fu V8
Start as for Cloud of Stars, but diagonal left
into Moondye.
35 Moondye V9
A dream problem for some, but a devastating
nemesis for most. Sit-start using a left crimp
and a right sidepull. Desperate, frictiondependent
sidepulls lead to the top.
Moondye Boulder
35
36
34
36 Moondye Stand V5
Stand-start and climb the top half of Moondye.
37 Make You Cuss V2
Climb the right side of the low-angled arête.
This is a great warm-up for Old English.
33
37
Make You Cuss
32
Moondye Boulder
Treebeard 5.7 (p109)
Hackberry Crack 5.9- (p109)
HORSESHOE CANYON RANCH
116 www. ixed in.com
117
31
32
Warm-up Wall
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34
35
36
55
37
Man Back
38 The Good Stuff V0
Start five feet left of a leaning boulder on
obvious holds. Move up and left to top out.
39 Warm-up Traverse V0
Start on The Good Stuff, then traverse left and
finish on Up and at Em’.
40 Short Dihedral V0
Sit-start and climb the short dihedral.
42
Warm-up Wall
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38
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53
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57
60
The Black Slabs
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40
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59
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48
47
Miho Boulder
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50
58
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41 Up and at Em’ V1
Sit-start with big holds. Move up and slightly
right to the topout.
42 The Pocketeer V0
Begin matched in the obvious pockets and
move straight up.
Rhonda Watkins, High Five (V4) p118 photo: Cole Fennel

WEST MAIN BLUFF
62 63
61 Coup de Grace Direct 5.10a
This once fine sport route is now reduced
to empty holes in the rock, but the anchors
remain. The route pulls the crux of Coup de
Grace then continues straight up. (60’)
62 Flat Bottom Girls 5.7
This is the left-leaning, right-facing dihedral
left of Ode to a Portly Man. The crux is pulling
through the low, flared section. At the end of
the corner, walk left to use Coup de Grace’s
anchors or finish up with the easy wide crack.
63 Ode to a Portly Man 5.11b
Start on the right side of the gently
overhanging wall. Climb up the steep terrain
passing four bolts. Climb straight up, trending
left toward the top and slinging chickenheads
for pro. The crux is between the first and
second bolt. Make sure not to blow the second
clip. 4 bolts, Slings for chickenheads (60’)
FA: Clay Frisbie, Chandler Schooler, Mike Stites 08/96
64 Fat City 5.7 PG
Start by climbing the chimney system, just
right of Ode to a Portly Man, to a good ledge
on the right. Then enjoy the short offset thin
crack until it abruptly widens to body size.
From here, climb big holds on the right face
or wiggle up the chimney to the top. Both
finishes are slightly run out. No Anchors. (60’)
65 Cassi’s Nightmare 5.9+
Climb 20ft up to the obvious right-leaning
offwidth and follow it to its end on a lowangled
wall capped by a roof. To finish, either
pull over the roof in a hand crack (5.10) or skirt
the base of the roof on the left (5.6).
Rack: .5 -#4 Camalot, with (2) #3 and #4 (75’)
300 www. ixed in.com
Ode to a Portly Man
64
66 Fists of Aggression 5.10a
This route is easily identified by the fist-sized
roof crack low on the route. Climb moss coated
low-angled rock to the base of the roof. Pull
over the roof with strenuous jams and face
holds and finish up the left-angling dihedral
passing a few patches of vegetation before the
route gullies out near the top. Originally given
5.8, Fists of Aggression, may still feel a little
sandbagged at its current rating.
Rack to a #4 Camalot (75’)
67 Reptilian 5.9
Stem up the mossy, flaring start without much
pro to a ledge at the base of the roof. Jam a
few crux moves around the roof and cruise
good holds into and through the hanging
dihedral to a ledge with anchors.
SR, with an optional #4 Camalot (70’)
68 The Wasp 5.9 PG
Climb up rotten rock through a low bulge
and then through a larger roof that is much
easier than it appears. Near the top, negotiate
another short section of offwidth.
No Anchors. SR, with (2) #5 Camalots (55’)
The Ramp
69 The Ramp 5.5
This is used as a common approach to either
of the Main Bluffs and The Throne (see the
approach descriptions, p277) Climb the easy
ramp using the crack and holds left of it. (45’)
70 Broken Ankles 5.10b R
Begin just right of The Ramp on an obvious
boulder and climb the also obvious line of
face holds to the first bomber piece in the
horizontal 25ft up. Then follow the path of
least resistance on dirty rock to the top and
build a belay. (45’)
FA: Clay Frisbie, Jon Von Canon 1987
69
70
Steve Levin, Windy Arm Buster (5.10d) p302
photo: Cole Fennel