Integrating Draping, Drafting, & Drawing - Fairchild Books

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With experience gained from producing the skirt sloper, you can now develop the bodice pattern. Draping the bodice involves balancing the front and back muslin, distributing and controlling fullness by forming darts, and fitting the neckline and armhole. The muslin drape is trued and transferred to paper, and a sloper is created. Detailed instructions depict taking measurements and drafting a flat pattern for the bodice as another option. Drawing the body contours is a critical factor in visually communicating the fit and form of the bodice. Studies of body lines, proportion, pose, flats, and specs are included in this chapter. 3 B OD I CE
Integrating Draping, Drafting, and Drawing | 56 56 Draping the Bodice Prepare the Muslin 1 Front length: Measure from the dress form neckband to the waist at CF plus 2 2 Front width: Measure from the CF at bust level to the side seam plus 2 1 ⁄2 1 Tape the Dress Form • Bust • Center front and center back • Princess lines • Side seam • Base of the neckline • Shoulder seam • Shoulder blade level (4 down from neckline at CB) • Armhole ridge Note: Do not cover seam lines with tape. Pin along side them. Length Side Seam Bust Level Width Center Front Drape 1 Align the muslin length and cross grain line with the tape on the dress form. Pin the muslin at the CF neckline, 3 above and below the bust tape and waist. Pin the cross grain line at the bust point at princess line. 2 Distribute 1 ⁄2 ease across the bust line and pin cross mark at the side seam. 2 Mark the Muslin 1 Measure 1 in from the lengthwise torn edge. Draw in CF line 2 Measure from the neckband to the bust level. Square a line across the muslin. 3 Measure from the CF to the side seam across bust level. Add 1 ⁄2 for ease. Cross mark for the side seam on the bust line.
Page 1 and 2: BF SEE INSIDE FOR SAMPLE MATERIAL F
Page 4 and 5: Integrating Draping, Drafting, and
Page 6 and 7: Integrating Draping, Drafting, and
Page 10 and 11: 1 2 Drape the Neckline 4 1 Pin at t
Page 12 and 13: Torn Edge Shoulder Blade Level Bust
Page 14 and 15: Join the Front and Back Bodice 1 Fo
Page 16 and 17: 6 Lower the armhole at side seam 1.
Page 18 and 19: 15 Pin the trued and trimmed muslin
Page 20 and 21: Drawing Darts for This Bodice 3 Dra
Page 22 and 23: 5 Side seam (waist to 1 below arm p
Page 24 and 25: 22 C to R = 1 ⁄2 the Bust Point t
Page 26 and 27: Drafting the Waistline and Shoulder
Page 28 and 29: Shaping the Bodice Full Front Bust
Page 30: Shape Shape Darts Shape Darts Big O

Integrating Draping, Drafting, & Drawing - Fairchild Books

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