Integrating Draping, Drafting, & Drawing - Fairchild Books

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Integrating Draping, Drafting, and Drawing Extended Contents Preface............................................................................xi Chapter 1 Tools and Supplies Draping: Muslin......................................................2 Tools and Supplies...........................................2 Comparing the Dress Form to the Drawn Form............................................4 Drafting: Muslin to Paper Pattern ....................6 Tools and Supplies...........................................6 Drafting: Paper Pattern to Sloper......................7 Tools and Supplies...........................................7 Terms and Definitions...........................................8 Draping ...................................................................10 Taping the Dress Form................................14 Pattern Symbol Legend ......................................16 Drawing ..................................................................17 Tools and Supplies ........................................17 Drawing the Flat Figure.....................................18 Fashion Figure versus Flat Figure...................19 Chapter 2 Skirts Draping the Skirt .................................................22 Trueing the Skirt Muslin: Waistline ...............28 Making the Skirt Sloper.....................................32 Drafting the Skirt from Measurements.........34 Drawing Skirt Flats .............................................38 Skirt Variations.....................................................39 Straight Skirt...................................................39 Flare Skirt ........................................................42 Six-Gore Skirt.................................................45 Pleated Skirt....................................................48 Dirndl Skirt .....................................................50 Drawing Structured Drape ...............................52 Chapter 3 Bodice Draping the Bodice..............................................56 Trueing the Bodice Muslin................................62 Making the Bodice Sloper.................................66 Drafting the Bodice from Measurements.....68 Drafting the Neckline and Armholes......72 Drafting the Waistline and Shoulders.....73 Completed Bodice Draft .............................74 Shaping the Bodice .......................................75 Drawing Options .................................................76 Chapter 4 Bodice Variations Bodice Variations .................................................80 Shoulder and Waist Dart Combination ...80 Princess Seam.....................................................82 Armhole Princess Seam..................................86 Front Waist Dart and Back Neck Dart ....90 Drawing Bodice Variations...........................93 Side and Waist Darts.......................................94 Shoulder Yoke with Tucks and Gathered Waist......................................96 Gathered Neck with Yoke..........................100 Dartless Back Shoulder................................103 Drawing Bodice Details .............................104 Chapter 5 Necklines and Collars Necklines ..................................................108 Jewel Neck ..........................................108 V-Neck ................................................110 Scoop Neck .........................................112 Square Neck ........................................114 Bateau Neck ........................................116 EXTENDED CONTENTS |ix
Integrating Draping, Drafting, and Drawing | x Collars.......................................................118 Peter Pan Collar ..................................118 Pilgrim Collar......................................120 Mock Shawl ........................................122 Convertible Collar...............................124 Two-Piece Shirt Collar.........................126 Band Collar .........................................128 Drawing Necklines and Collars................130 Chapter 6 Sleeves Draping the Sleeve ....................................134 Stuffed Arm.........................................134 Marking the Muslin ...........................140 Drafting the Straight Sleeve ......................144 Draft from Measurements ..................145 Draft the Cap ......................................146 Drafting the Fitted Sleeve .........................148 Draft....................................................148 Sleeves ......................................................150 Leg-o-Mutton......................................150 Slim-Fitted Bell ....................................152 Blouse ..................................................154 Full Bell ...............................................156 Puff .....................................................158 Turn-Up Cuff .....................................160 Drawing Sleeves .......................................162 Chapter 7 Dresses Dress Foundation Sloper...........................166 Draping the Dress Foundation Sloper.......168 Dresses ......................................................170 Shift Dress ...........................................170 Princess Dress......................................174 Sheath Dress........................................178 Tent Dress............................................180 Drawing Dresses .......................................184 Design Variety...........................................186 Chapter 8 Drawing Donald Brooks: Costume and Fashion Designer .............................190 Collars and Cuffs......................................192 Five Stages for a Garment: Collar.............194 Sleeves.......................................................196 Five Stages for a Garment: Sleeve .............198 Pleating .....................................................200 Five Stages for a Garment: Bodice............202 Five Stages for a Garment: Skirt ..............204 Five Stages for a Garment: Bodice Variations ...................................206 Five Stages for a Garment: Dress .............208 Back Drape ..............................................210 Dresses ......................................................212 Sketching Options.....................................214 Flat Figure and Fashion Figure .................216 Drawing Soft Drape..................................218 Appendix Dress Form Measurement Chart ..............222 Standard Sportswear and Streetwear Dress Form ...........................223 Croquis Templates ....................................224
Page 1 and 2: BF SEE INSIDE FOR SAMPLE MATERIAL F
Page 6 and 7: Integrating Draping, Drafting, and
Page 8 and 9: With experience gained from produci
Page 10 and 11: 1 2 Drape the Neckline 4 1 Pin at t
Page 12 and 13: Torn Edge Shoulder Blade Level Bust
Page 14 and 15: Join the Front and Back Bodice 1 Fo
Page 16 and 17: 6 Lower the armhole at side seam 1.
Page 18 and 19: 15 Pin the trued and trimmed muslin
Page 20 and 21: Drawing Darts for This Bodice 3 Dra
Page 22 and 23: 5 Side seam (waist to 1 below arm p
Page 24 and 25: 22 C to R = 1 ⁄2 the Bust Point t
Page 26 and 27: Drafting the Waistline and Shoulder
Page 28 and 29: Shaping the Bodice Full Front Bust
Page 30: Shape Shape Darts Shape Darts Big O

Integrating Draping, Drafting, & Drawing - Fairchild Books

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