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Integrating Draping, Drafting, & Drawing - Fairchild Books

Integrating Draping, Drafting, & Drawing - Fairchild Books

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<strong>Integrating</strong> <strong>Draping</strong>, <strong>Drafting</strong>, and <strong>Drawing</strong><br />

Extended Contents<br />

Preface............................................................................xi<br />

Chapter 1<br />

Tools and Supplies<br />

<strong>Draping</strong>: Muslin......................................................2<br />

Tools and Supplies...........................................2<br />

Comparing the Dress Form to<br />

the Drawn Form............................................4<br />

<strong>Drafting</strong>: Muslin to Paper Pattern ....................6<br />

Tools and Supplies...........................................6<br />

<strong>Drafting</strong>: Paper Pattern to Sloper......................7<br />

Tools and Supplies...........................................7<br />

Terms and Definitions...........................................8<br />

<strong>Draping</strong> ...................................................................10<br />

Taping the Dress Form................................14<br />

Pattern Symbol Legend ......................................16<br />

<strong>Drawing</strong> ..................................................................17<br />

Tools and Supplies ........................................17<br />

<strong>Drawing</strong> the Flat Figure.....................................18<br />

Fashion Figure versus Flat Figure...................19<br />

Chapter 2<br />

Skirts<br />

<strong>Draping</strong> the Skirt .................................................22<br />

Trueing the Skirt Muslin: Waistline ...............28<br />

Making the Skirt Sloper.....................................32<br />

<strong>Drafting</strong> the Skirt from Measurements.........34<br />

<strong>Drawing</strong> Skirt Flats .............................................38<br />

Skirt Variations.....................................................39<br />

Straight Skirt...................................................39<br />

Flare Skirt ........................................................42<br />

Six-Gore Skirt.................................................45<br />

Pleated Skirt....................................................48<br />

Dirndl Skirt .....................................................50<br />

<strong>Drawing</strong> Structured Drape ...............................52<br />

Chapter 3<br />

Bodice<br />

<strong>Draping</strong> the Bodice..............................................56<br />

Trueing the Bodice Muslin................................62<br />

Making the Bodice Sloper.................................66<br />

<strong>Drafting</strong> the Bodice from Measurements.....68<br />

<strong>Drafting</strong> the Neckline and Armholes......72<br />

<strong>Drafting</strong> the Waistline and Shoulders.....73<br />

Completed Bodice Draft .............................74<br />

Shaping the Bodice .......................................75<br />

<strong>Drawing</strong> Options .................................................76<br />

Chapter 4<br />

Bodice Variations<br />

Bodice Variations .................................................80<br />

Shoulder and Waist Dart Combination ...80<br />

Princess Seam.....................................................82<br />

Armhole Princess Seam..................................86<br />

Front Waist Dart and Back Neck Dart ....90<br />

<strong>Drawing</strong> Bodice Variations...........................93<br />

Side and Waist Darts.......................................94<br />

Shoulder Yoke with Tucks<br />

and Gathered Waist......................................96<br />

Gathered Neck with Yoke..........................100<br />

Dartless Back Shoulder................................103<br />

<strong>Drawing</strong> Bodice Details .............................104<br />

Chapter 5<br />

Necklines and Collars<br />

Necklines ..................................................108<br />

Jewel Neck ..........................................108<br />

V-Neck ................................................110<br />

Scoop Neck .........................................112<br />

Square Neck ........................................114<br />

Bateau Neck ........................................116<br />

EXTENDED CONTENTS |ix

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