Integrating Draping, Drafting, & Drawing - Fairchild Books

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Shaping the Bodice Full Front Bust Line Contour Scapula or Shoulder Blades Bodice Length Bodice Dart Position Bodice Fit Bust Level The fit on the front of the bodice is designed to contour over the bust apex. The bust apex is the fullest point across the chest. The bust level runs between the front darts. Full Back The fit on the back of the bodice is constructed to accommodate the subtle contours of the scapula or shoulder blades. The shoulder blade level runs above and parallel to the bust level across the back of the bodice. Shoulder Blade Level Back Dart Position Shoulder Blade Level Bust Level BODICE |75 75
Integrating Draping, Drafting, and Drawing | 76 Drawing Options Figure Angles Notice how the direction of the torso, in any pose, affects the contours or curves in the sewing lines, as they turn with the figure. Form and Function The function of the darts is to make a garment fit or follow the form, in this case, the form of the bust line curve. Body Planes The torso can be divided into four sides. This pose shows off two sides and the front of this square. The turn direction, for this pose, is evident in the sides and affects where you draw the dart lines. Pose Posing a flat has the advantage of emphasizing fit: in this example, the look or fit of the bodice as it hugs the chest. Flat Flats give you all of the construction and shape detail without the possible distortion of a posed flat. Spec Specs provide the most comprehensive detailing for every aspect in creating a garment, to produce it en masse. Elongated Fashion Figure
Page 1 and 2: BF SEE INSIDE FOR SAMPLE MATERIAL F
Page 4 and 5: Integrating Draping, Drafting, and
Page 6 and 7: Integrating Draping, Drafting, and
Page 8 and 9: With experience gained from produci
Page 10 and 11: 1 2 Drape the Neckline 4 1 Pin at t
Page 12 and 13: Torn Edge Shoulder Blade Level Bust
Page 14 and 15: Join the Front and Back Bodice 1 Fo
Page 16 and 17: 6 Lower the armhole at side seam 1.
Page 18 and 19: 15 Pin the trued and trimmed muslin
Page 20 and 21: Drawing Darts for This Bodice 3 Dra
Page 22 and 23: 5 Side seam (waist to 1 below arm p
Page 24 and 25: 22 C to R = 1 ⁄2 the Bust Point t
Page 26 and 27: Drafting the Waistline and Shoulder
Page 30: Shape Shape Darts Shape Darts Big O

Integrating Draping, Drafting, & Drawing - Fairchild Books

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