Integrating Draping, Drafting, & Drawing - Fairchild Books

Drafting the Waistline and Shoulders
48 Separate the front and back bodice. Fold the
waist dart legs closest to the centers towards
the sides. Pin the darts closed. Match and pin
the side seam together
49 Square a line 1 from the Center Front and
back waist towards the side seam. Use a curve
ruler to blend the front and back waists
50 Run a tracing wheel across the waist and draw
in the jog of the darts
51 Fold the shoulder darts dart legs closest to the
centers towards the sides. Pin the darts closed.
Draw a straight line from Q to P for the front
and from N to M for the back. Run a tracing
wheel across the shoulder and draw in the jog
of the darts. Note: The back shoulder can be
slightly curved when adjusted on the figure
Drafting Diagram
Steps 48 – 53
N Z3 L
K+
+
+
I+
H
D
+
V +
X
+
+ M
L1
G
E
J + + +
+ B
J1
U
Y
F
T
Back
W
+
52 Match and pin the bodice shoulders together.
The back is slightly longer for ease. Blend the
front and back neckline and armhole at the
shoulder
53 Measure and prepare two pieces of muslin.
Transfer the draft to muslin using a tracing
wheel and carbon paper. Add seam allowance
and cut out. Pin fit and adjust
W1
+ Z4
_
+
+ P
Z2
Z1
_
+
S1
+
S
R
+
Front
Q +
+ 1”
+ O
+ A
+
C
BODICE |73
73