Integrating Draping, Drafting, & Drawing - Fairchild Books

Integrating Draping, Drafting, and Drawing
| 72
Drafting the Bodice from Measurements
Drafting the Neckline and Armholes
37 Square a horizontal guideline from the Center
Front and Back Neck. Square a vertical line up
to the Shoulder Neck Point
38 Front Neck: Draw a 1 1 ⁄4 guideline at a 45degree
angle to the guideline square. Use a
French curve to draw in the neckline A-Q. Keep
the Center Front neckline level for 1 ⁄4 before
curving
39 Back Neck: Draw a 7 ⁄8 guideline at a 45-degree
angle to the guideline square. Use a French
curve to draw in the neckline I-N. Keep the
Center Back neckline level for 1 ⁄2 before
curving
40 Front Armhole: O to Z1 = 1 ⁄2 the Across Chest
measurement. Square a guideline down to H-G
Drafting Diagram
Steps 37 – 47
N Z3 L
K+
+
+
I+
72
+
+ P
+ A
X
H
D
+
1/2” 7/8”
V +
+
+ M
L1
G
E
J + + +
+ B
J1
U
Y
F
T
Back
W
+
W1
approx. 1”
+ Z4
_
41 Z2 = 2 ⁄3 of Z1 - H-G
42 Square a line from H-G to Z2 43 Draw a 1 guideline at a 45-degree angle to the
guideline square. Draw P-Z2-G using a French
curve.
44 Back Armhole: K – Z3 = 1 ⁄2 the Across Back
measurement. Square a guideline down to H-G
45 Z4 = 1 ⁄2 Z3 - H-G
46 Square a line from H-G to Z4 47 Draw a 1 guideline at a 45-degree angle to the
guideline square. Draw the lower armhole Z4-G and the upper armhole Z4-M using a French
curve
+
armplate
screw
Z2
Z1
_
+
S1
approx. 1”
+
S
11/4” R
+
Front
Q +
1/4”
+ O
C