Integrating Draping, Drafting, & Drawing - Fairchild Books

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22 C to R = 1 ⁄2 the Bust Point to Bust Point 23 Square a line from R to the waist guideline. Measure 1 on either side of the line and draw dart legs. Extend all dart lines 1 ⁄2 past the waist guideline 24 B to T = 1 ⁄4 of the Waist circumference plus 2 3 ⁄4 (the front is 1 ⁄2 wider than the back, plus 1 ⁄4 ease, plus 2 for the dart) 25 T to G = Front Side Seam 26 Q to S = 1 ⁄2 the Front Shoulder 27 S to S 1 = 2 for the Dart. At the center of the dart extend a guideline down to R. Connect dart legs to R and extend all lines 1 ⁄2 past the shoulder guideline 28 V = Intersection of J 1 – M with line G-H. Shift 3 ⁄4 towards the Center Back and mark V 29 U = Square a line down from V, extending 1 ⁄2 past the waist guideline Drafting Diagram Steps 22 – 36 N L K+ + + I+ H D V + 3/8” X + + M L1 G E 1” 1” J + + 1” 1” + + B J1 U Y F T Back W + 3/4” W1 30 Mark 1 on each side of line and connect the dart legs to V - Extend the dart legs 1 ⁄2 past the waist guideline 31 J to Y = 1 ⁄4 of the Waist minus 1 ⁄2, plus 2 1 ⁄4 for dart and ease 32 Y to G = Back Side Seam 33 N to W = 1 ⁄2 the Shoulder plus 1 ⁄8 ease 34 W – W 1 = 3 ⁄4 (Dart) 35 From the dart midpoint draw a guideline 3 1 ⁄2 to X 36 Connect the dart legs to X. Extend dart lines 1 ⁄2 beyond the shoulder line + P S1 + S 1” 1” R + Front Q + + O + A C BODICE |71 71
Integrating Draping, Drafting, and Drawing | 72 Drafting the Bodice from Measurements Drafting the Neckline and Armholes 37 Square a horizontal guideline from the Center Front and Back Neck. Square a vertical line up to the Shoulder Neck Point 38 Front Neck: Draw a 1 1 ⁄4 guideline at a 45degree angle to the guideline square. Use a French curve to draw in the neckline A-Q. Keep the Center Front neckline level for 1 ⁄4 before curving 39 Back Neck: Draw a 7 ⁄8 guideline at a 45-degree angle to the guideline square. Use a French curve to draw in the neckline I-N. Keep the Center Back neckline level for 1 ⁄2 before curving 40 Front Armhole: O to Z1 = 1 ⁄2 the Across Chest measurement. Square a guideline down to H-G Drafting Diagram Steps 37 – 47 N Z3 L K+ + + I+ 72 + + P + A X H D + 1/2” 7/8” V + + + M L1 G E J + + + + B J1 U Y F T Back W + W1 approx. 1” + Z4 _ 41 Z2 = 2 ⁄3 of Z1 - H-G 42 Square a line from H-G to Z2 43 Draw a 1 guideline at a 45-degree angle to the guideline square. Draw P-Z2-G using a French curve. 44 Back Armhole: K – Z3 = 1 ⁄2 the Across Back measurement. Square a guideline down to H-G 45 Z4 = 1 ⁄2 Z3 - H-G 46 Square a line from H-G to Z4 47 Draw a 1 guideline at a 45-degree angle to the guideline square. Draw the lower armhole Z4-G and the upper armhole Z4-M using a French curve + armplate screw Z2 Z1 _ + S1 approx. 1” + S 11/4” R + Front Q + 1/4” + O C
Page 1 and 2: BF SEE INSIDE FOR SAMPLE MATERIAL F
Page 4 and 5: Integrating Draping, Drafting, and
Page 6 and 7: Integrating Draping, Drafting, and
Page 8 and 9: With experience gained from produci
Page 10 and 11: 1 2 Drape the Neckline 4 1 Pin at t
Page 12 and 13: Torn Edge Shoulder Blade Level Bust
Page 14 and 15: Join the Front and Back Bodice 1 Fo
Page 16 and 17: 6 Lower the armhole at side seam 1.
Page 18 and 19: 15 Pin the trued and trimmed muslin
Page 20 and 21: Drawing Darts for This Bodice 3 Dra
Page 22 and 23: 5 Side seam (waist to 1 below arm p
Page 26 and 27: Drafting the Waistline and Shoulder
Page 28 and 29: Shaping the Bodice Full Front Bust
Page 30: Shape Shape Darts Shape Darts Big O

Integrating Draping, Drafting, & Drawing - Fairchild Books

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