Integrating Draping, Drafting, & Drawing - Fairchild Books

Integrating Draping, Drafting, and Drawing
| 70
70
Drafting the Bodice from Measurements
1 A to B = Center Front Length - Extend a straight
line 2 in from the right side of a 24 24 sheet
of pattern paper
2 A to C = the distance from the base of the Neck
to the Bust level
3 C to D = 1 ⁄2 the Bust Circumference plus 1 1 ⁄4
ease
4 D to E = 1 ⁄2 CD minus 1 ⁄4
5 E to F = Side Seam guideline (bust level to waist)
6 F to G = Side Seam (waist to 1 below armplate).
Extend the guideline to the top of the
paper
7 G to H = Square a line to the Center Back
from G. Extend the line 2 1 ⁄4 toward the front
8 D to I = Bust level to the Back Neck
9 I to J = Center Back Length
10 J to K = Waist to the Shoulder Neck Point -
Square a line across to the side seam guideline
11 K to L = 1 ⁄2 of Across Shoulder measurement
plus 1 for dart & ease
12 Square a guideline from L down to H-G.
Drafting
Diagram
Steps 1 – 21
N L
K+
+
+
I+
H
D
+ M
L1
G
E
1”
J + + +
+ B
J1
F
Back
Mark L 1 where they intersect
13 Square a guideline from J toward F for the back
waist
14 Square a guideline from B to F for the front waist
15 J to J1 = 1
16 J1 to M = Set the ruler at J1 - measure the
Back Waist to Shoulder length to the point
where it intersects with line L-L1 17 M to N = Set the ruler at M - measure the
Shoulder length plus 1 for dart/ease to the
point where it intersects with line K-L
18 B to O = the Center Front Waist to Shoulder
Neck point. Square a guideline across to the
side seam guideline
19 Draw a parallel guideline 5 ⁄8 to the right of the
side seam line from the top towards line G-H
20 B to P = Center Front Waist to Shoulder
at armhole. Place the ruler at B, mark where
it intersects the 5 ⁄8 guideline
21 P to Q = Front Shoulder length plus 2 for the
dart
5/8”
+ P
Front
Q +
+ O
+ A
C