Integrating Draping, Drafting, & Drawing - Fairchild Books

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5 Side seam (waist to 1 below arm plate) 10 Back waist to shoulder (1 from CB waist to end of shoulder) 15 Front shoulder length 6 Back neck to bust level 11 Back shoulder (base of neck to end of shoulder) 7 Center back length (base of neck to waist) 12 Front shoulder neck to waist 8 Back shoulder, neck to waist 13 Across front chest 16 Bust point to bust point 17 Waist circumference 9 Across back shoulder (armhole to armhole) 14 Front waist to shoulder 18 Across back BODICE |69 69
Integrating Draping, Drafting, and Drawing | 70 70 Drafting the Bodice from Measurements 1 A to B = Center Front Length - Extend a straight line 2 in from the right side of a 24 24 sheet of pattern paper 2 A to C = the distance from the base of the Neck to the Bust level 3 C to D = 1 ⁄2 the Bust Circumference plus 1 1 ⁄4 ease 4 D to E = 1 ⁄2 CD minus 1 ⁄4 5 E to F = Side Seam guideline (bust level to waist) 6 F to G = Side Seam (waist to 1 below armplate). Extend the guideline to the top of the paper 7 G to H = Square a line to the Center Back from G. Extend the line 2 1 ⁄4 toward the front 8 D to I = Bust level to the Back Neck 9 I to J = Center Back Length 10 J to K = Waist to the Shoulder Neck Point - Square a line across to the side seam guideline 11 K to L = 1 ⁄2 of Across Shoulder measurement plus 1 for dart & ease 12 Square a guideline from L down to H-G. Drafting Diagram Steps 1 – 21 N L K+ + + I+ H D + M L1 G E 1” J + + + + B J1 F Back Mark L 1 where they intersect 13 Square a guideline from J toward F for the back waist 14 Square a guideline from B to F for the front waist 15 J to J1 = 1 16 J1 to M = Set the ruler at J1 - measure the Back Waist to Shoulder length to the point where it intersects with line L-L1 17 M to N = Set the ruler at M - measure the Shoulder length plus 1 for dart/ease to the point where it intersects with line K-L 18 B to O = the Center Front Waist to Shoulder Neck point. Square a guideline across to the side seam guideline 19 Draw a parallel guideline 5 ⁄8 to the right of the side seam line from the top towards line G-H 20 B to P = Center Front Waist to Shoulder at armhole. Place the ruler at B, mark where it intersects the 5 ⁄8 guideline 21 P to Q = Front Shoulder length plus 2 for the dart 5/8” + P Front Q + + O + A C
Page 1 and 2: BF SEE INSIDE FOR SAMPLE MATERIAL F
Page 4 and 5: Integrating Draping, Drafting, and
Page 6 and 7: Integrating Draping, Drafting, and
Page 8 and 9: With experience gained from produci
Page 10 and 11: 1 2 Drape the Neckline 4 1 Pin at t
Page 12 and 13: Torn Edge Shoulder Blade Level Bust
Page 14 and 15: Join the Front and Back Bodice 1 Fo
Page 16 and 17: 6 Lower the armhole at side seam 1.
Page 18 and 19: 15 Pin the trued and trimmed muslin
Page 20 and 21: Drawing Darts for This Bodice 3 Dra
Page 24 and 25: 22 C to R = 1 ⁄2 the Bust Point t
Page 26 and 27: Drafting the Waistline and Shoulder
Page 28 and 29: Shaping the Bodice Full Front Bust
Page 30: Shape Shape Darts Shape Darts Big O

Integrating Draping, Drafting, & Drawing - Fairchild Books

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