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Integrating Draping, Drafting, & Drawing - Fairchild Books

Integrating Draping, Drafting, & Drawing - Fairchild Books

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<strong>Integrating</strong> <strong>Draping</strong>, <strong>Drafting</strong>, and <strong>Drawing</strong><br />

| 60<br />

<strong>Draping</strong> the Bodice<br />

1 2<br />

3 4<br />

Form the Waist Dart<br />

5 From the side seam at the waist, pin<br />

along the waist toward the princess<br />

line. Slash the muslin towards the pins.<br />

Allow for 1 ⁄4 ease along the waist.<br />

6 Smooth and pin from the center back<br />

waist toward the princess line.<br />

7 Pinch up the excess muslin to form<br />

a dart. Pin the fullness at the waist<br />

and pin the dart along the princess<br />

line to 1 above the bust level line.<br />

8 9 10<br />

Form the Shoulder Dart<br />

1 Smooth the muslin from the shoulder<br />

neck point to the princess line on the<br />

shoulder and pin. Muslin should lay<br />

flat across the chest and shoulder<br />

with no stretching or pulling at the<br />

neckline.<br />

2 Smooth the excess muslin from the<br />

shoulder blade line at armhole up<br />

over the shoulder towards the<br />

princess line and pin.<br />

3 Pinch up the excess muslin to form a<br />

small dart along the princess line.<br />

4 Measure 3 down from the shoulder<br />

and mark the vanishing point of the<br />

dart with a pin.<br />

Mark the Draped Muslin<br />

8 Dot along the bottom of the twill<br />

tape along the waist and side seam.<br />

9 Cross mark on either side of the<br />

dart at the waist and the intersection<br />

of the side seam at the waist<br />

and arm plate. Cross mark at the<br />

end of the shoulder, on each side<br />

of the shoulder dart and at the<br />

shoulder neck point.<br />

10 Dot along the shoulder and neckline.

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