Integrating Draping, Drafting, & Drawing - Fairchild Books

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Torn Edge Shoulder Blade Level Bust Line Level Center Back Line Back Muslin Shoulder Blade Cross Mark Cross Mark for Side Seam at Bust Line Tape Prepare the Back Muslin • Back length: Measure from the dress form neckband to the waist at Center Back plus 2. • Back width: Measure from the CB at bust level to the side seam plus 3. Mark the Muslin 1 Measure 1 in from the lengthwise torn edge. Draw in the Center Back line. 2 Measure from the neckband to the bust level tape. Square a line across the muslin. 3 Measure from the CB to the side seam across the tape. Add 1 for ease. Cross mark for the side seam on the bust line. 4 Align the length and cross grain lines with the bust line tape. Mark and square a line for the shoulder blade level. 5 Measure across the shoulder blade level to the arm plate and cross mark. Drape the Back 1 Align the length and cross grain lines with the bust line tape. Pin the muslin at the CB neck, shoulder blade, bust line, and waist. Pin the cross grain line, distributing the ease along the tape. Pin across the shoulder blade level, distributing 1 ⁄4 ease to the cross mark at the armhole ridge. 2 Pin along the back neckline of the dress form, slashing down the seam allowance toward the pins. Secure at the shoulder seam. BODICE |59 59
Integrating Draping, Drafting, and Drawing | 60 Draping the Bodice 1 2 3 4 Form the Waist Dart 5 From the side seam at the waist, pin along the waist toward the princess line. Slash the muslin towards the pins. Allow for 1 ⁄4 ease along the waist. 6 Smooth and pin from the center back waist toward the princess line. 7 Pinch up the excess muslin to form a dart. Pin the fullness at the waist and pin the dart along the princess line to 1 above the bust level line. 8 9 10 Form the Shoulder Dart 1 Smooth the muslin from the shoulder neck point to the princess line on the shoulder and pin. Muslin should lay flat across the chest and shoulder with no stretching or pulling at the neckline. 2 Smooth the excess muslin from the shoulder blade line at armhole up over the shoulder towards the princess line and pin. 3 Pinch up the excess muslin to form a small dart along the princess line. 4 Measure 3 down from the shoulder and mark the vanishing point of the dart with a pin. Mark the Draped Muslin 8 Dot along the bottom of the twill tape along the waist and side seam. 9 Cross mark on either side of the dart at the waist and the intersection of the side seam at the waist and arm plate. Cross mark at the end of the shoulder, on each side of the shoulder dart and at the shoulder neck point. 10 Dot along the shoulder and neckline.
Page 1 and 2: BF SEE INSIDE FOR SAMPLE MATERIAL F
Page 4 and 5: Integrating Draping, Drafting, and
Page 6 and 7: Integrating Draping, Drafting, and
Page 8 and 9: With experience gained from produci
Page 10 and 11: 1 2 Drape the Neckline 4 1 Pin at t
Page 14 and 15: Join the Front and Back Bodice 1 Fo
Page 16 and 17: 6 Lower the armhole at side seam 1.
Page 18 and 19: 15 Pin the trued and trimmed muslin
Page 20 and 21: Drawing Darts for This Bodice 3 Dra
Page 22 and 23: 5 Side seam (waist to 1 below arm p
Page 24 and 25: 22 C to R = 1 ⁄2 the Bust Point t
Page 26 and 27: Drafting the Waistline and Shoulder
Page 28 and 29: Shaping the Bodice Full Front Bust
Page 30: Shape Shape Darts Shape Darts Big O

Integrating Draping, Drafting, & Drawing - Fairchild Books

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