Integrating Draping, Drafting, & Drawing - Fairchild Books

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1 2 Drape the Neckline 4 1 Pin at the intersection of the center front seam and neckline of the dress form. 2 To release the muslin for fitting, cut a 2 2 square off the corner. 3 Pin and slash down the seam allowance (perpendicular to the neckline) toward pin. 4 Continue pinning and slashing along neckline to the shoulder seam. The muslin should lie smoothly across the chest and shoulder, with no stretching or pulling at neckline. 1 ⁄8 ease should be included. 7 8 9 Shoulder Dart Neckline Side Seam Center Front Bust Level Waistline Form the Shoulder Dart 5 Smooth the muslin from the shoulder neck point to the princess line or midpoint on the shoulder and pin. 6 Smooth the excess muslin from the bust line pinned at the side seam up over the shoulder towards the princess line and pin. 7 Fold the excess muslin to form a dart. Pin the fullness at the shoulder. 8 Pin the side seam starting at the arm plate down to the waist. 9 Pin out the fullness from the shoulder down towards the bust point. BODICE |57 57
Integrating Draping, Drafting, and Drawing | 58 58 Draping the Bodice 1 3 Form the Waist Dart 1 From the side seam at waist, pin along the waist toward the princess line. Slash the muslin towards the pins. Allow for 1 ⁄4 ease along waist. 2 Smooth and pin from the center front waist towards the princess line. 3 Fold the excess muslin to form a dart. Pin the fullness at the waist and pin the dart towards the bust point. Armhole Side Seam Waist Dart Bust Point Center Front Waistline 5 6 7 Mark the Draped Muslin 4 With a pencil, dot along the bottom of the twill tape along the waist and side seam. 5 Cross mark on either side of the dart at the waist and the intersection of the side seam at the waist and arm plate. Cross mark at the end of the shoulder, on each side of the shoulder dart and at the shoulder neck point. 6 Dot along the shoulder and neckline. 7 Fold the excess muslin to the front, clearing the shoulder and side seam for the back drape.
Page 1 and 2: BF SEE INSIDE FOR SAMPLE MATERIAL F
Page 4 and 5: Integrating Draping, Drafting, and
Page 6 and 7: Integrating Draping, Drafting, and
Page 8 and 9: With experience gained from produci
Page 12 and 13: Torn Edge Shoulder Blade Level Bust
Page 14 and 15: Join the Front and Back Bodice 1 Fo
Page 16 and 17: 6 Lower the armhole at side seam 1.
Page 18 and 19: 15 Pin the trued and trimmed muslin
Page 20 and 21: Drawing Darts for This Bodice 3 Dra
Page 22 and 23: 5 Side seam (waist to 1 below arm p
Page 24 and 25: 22 C to R = 1 ⁄2 the Bust Point t
Page 26 and 27: Drafting the Waistline and Shoulder
Page 28 and 29: Shaping the Bodice Full Front Bust
Page 30: Shape Shape Darts Shape Darts Big O

Integrating Draping, Drafting, & Drawing - Fairchild Books

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