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Integrating Draping, Drafting, & Drawing - Fairchild Books

Integrating Draping, Drafting, & Drawing - Fairchild Books

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1 2<br />

Drape the Neckline<br />

4<br />

1 Pin at the intersection of the<br />

center front seam and neckline<br />

of the dress form.<br />

2 To release the muslin for fitting,<br />

cut a 2 2 square off the corner.<br />

3 Pin and slash down the seam<br />

allowance (perpendicular to the<br />

neckline) toward pin.<br />

4 Continue pinning and slashing<br />

along neckline to the shoulder<br />

seam. The muslin should lie<br />

smoothly across the chest and<br />

shoulder, with no stretching or<br />

pulling at neckline. 1 ⁄8 ease<br />

should be included.<br />

7 8<br />

9<br />

Shoulder<br />

Dart Neckline<br />

Side<br />

Seam<br />

Center<br />

Front<br />

Bust<br />

Level<br />

Waistline<br />

Form the Shoulder Dart<br />

5 Smooth the muslin from the<br />

shoulder neck point to the<br />

princess line or midpoint on the<br />

shoulder and pin.<br />

6 Smooth the excess muslin from<br />

the bust line pinned at the side<br />

seam up over the shoulder<br />

towards the princess line and<br />

pin.<br />

7 Fold the excess muslin to form<br />

a dart. Pin the fullness at the<br />

shoulder.<br />

8 Pin the side seam starting at the<br />

arm plate down to the waist.<br />

9 Pin out the fullness from the<br />

shoulder down towards the bust<br />

point.<br />

BODICE |57<br />

57

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