Integrating Draping, Drafting, & Drawing - Fairchild Books

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Integrating Draping, Drafting, & Drawing
9 x 12
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978-1-56367-486-0

Integrating Draping, Drafting, and Drawing
Contents
Extended Contents ....................................................ix
Preface............................................................................xi
Chapter 1
Tools and Supplies .........................................1
Chapter 2
Skirts .........................................................................21
Chapter 3
Bodice ......................................................................55
Chapter 4
Bodice Variations..........................................79
Chapter 5
Necklines and Collars ...........................107
Chapter 6
Sleeves ...................................................................133
Chapter 7
Dresses..................................................................165
Chapter 8
Drawing ..............................................................189
Appendix............................................................221
CONTENTS |vii

Integrating Draping, Drafting, and Drawing
Extended Contents
Preface............................................................................xi
Chapter 1
Tools and Supplies
Draping: Muslin......................................................2
Tools and Supplies...........................................2
Comparing the Dress Form to
the Drawn Form............................................4
Drafting: Muslin to Paper Pattern ....................6
Tools and Supplies...........................................6
Drafting: Paper Pattern to Sloper......................7
Tools and Supplies...........................................7
Terms and Definitions...........................................8
Draping ...................................................................10
Taping the Dress Form................................14
Pattern Symbol Legend ......................................16
Drawing ..................................................................17
Tools and Supplies ........................................17
Drawing the Flat Figure.....................................18
Fashion Figure versus Flat Figure...................19
Chapter 2
Skirts
Draping the Skirt .................................................22
Trueing the Skirt Muslin: Waistline ...............28
Making the Skirt Sloper.....................................32
Drafting the Skirt from Measurements.........34
Drawing Skirt Flats .............................................38
Skirt Variations.....................................................39
Straight Skirt...................................................39
Flare Skirt ........................................................42
Six-Gore Skirt.................................................45
Pleated Skirt....................................................48
Dirndl Skirt .....................................................50
Drawing Structured Drape ...............................52
Chapter 3
Bodice
Draping the Bodice..............................................56
Trueing the Bodice Muslin................................62
Making the Bodice Sloper.................................66
Drafting the Bodice from Measurements.....68
Drafting the Neckline and Armholes......72
Drafting the Waistline and Shoulders.....73
Completed Bodice Draft .............................74
Shaping the Bodice .......................................75
Drawing Options .................................................76
Chapter 4
Bodice Variations
Bodice Variations .................................................80
Shoulder and Waist Dart Combination ...80
Princess Seam.....................................................82
Armhole Princess Seam..................................86
Front Waist Dart and Back Neck Dart ....90
Drawing Bodice Variations...........................93
Side and Waist Darts.......................................94
Shoulder Yoke with Tucks
and Gathered Waist......................................96
Gathered Neck with Yoke..........................100
Dartless Back Shoulder................................103
Drawing Bodice Details .............................104
Chapter 5
Necklines and Collars
Necklines ..................................................108
Jewel Neck ..........................................108
V-Neck ................................................110
Scoop Neck .........................................112
Square Neck ........................................114
Bateau Neck ........................................116
EXTENDED CONTENTS |ix

Integrating Draping, Drafting, and Drawing
| x
Collars.......................................................118
Peter Pan Collar ..................................118
Pilgrim Collar......................................120
Mock Shawl ........................................122
Convertible Collar...............................124
Two-Piece Shirt Collar.........................126
Band Collar .........................................128
Drawing Necklines and Collars................130
Chapter 6
Sleeves
Draping the Sleeve ....................................134
Stuffed Arm.........................................134
Marking the Muslin ...........................140
Drafting the Straight Sleeve ......................144
Draft from Measurements ..................145
Draft the Cap ......................................146
Drafting the Fitted Sleeve .........................148
Draft....................................................148
Sleeves ......................................................150
Leg-o-Mutton......................................150
Slim-Fitted Bell ....................................152
Blouse ..................................................154
Full Bell ...............................................156
Puff .....................................................158
Turn-Up Cuff .....................................160
Drawing Sleeves .......................................162
Chapter 7
Dresses
Dress Foundation Sloper...........................166
Draping the Dress Foundation Sloper.......168
Dresses ......................................................170
Shift Dress ...........................................170
Princess Dress......................................174
Sheath Dress........................................178
Tent Dress............................................180
Drawing Dresses .......................................184
Design Variety...........................................186
Chapter 8
Drawing
Donald Brooks: Costume
and Fashion Designer .............................190
Collars and Cuffs......................................192
Five Stages for a Garment: Collar.............194
Sleeves.......................................................196
Five Stages for a Garment: Sleeve .............198
Pleating .....................................................200
Five Stages for a Garment: Bodice............202
Five Stages for a Garment: Skirt ..............204
Five Stages for a Garment:
Bodice Variations ...................................206
Five Stages for a Garment: Dress .............208
Back Drape ..............................................210
Dresses ......................................................212
Sketching Options.....................................214
Flat Figure and Fashion Figure .................216
Drawing Soft Drape..................................218
Appendix
Dress Form Measurement Chart ..............222
Standard Sportswear and
Streetwear Dress Form ...........................223
Croquis Templates ....................................224

Integrating Draping, Drafting, and Drawing
Preface
This book is about a dialog between an artist
and a technician. It illustrates the design process,
encompassing sketch and garment pattern development.
It depicts the relationship among three
disciplines of fashion design: draping, drafting,
and drawing. The integration is presented in a
highly visual format.
These disciplines, particularly draping and
drafting, are often taught in separate classes.
Their relationship is integral to efficient and timesaving
methods of developing a design and its
pattern. Our aim is to create bridges between
studio methods and design illustration. Each
chapter renders a combination of skills and the
natural flow among them. Two-dimensional
design informs the three-dimensional and vice
versa.
Chapters are presented as hands-on learning
experiences with lessons that mimic classroom
demonstrations. Step-by-step photography portrays
the draping process in a sculptural way
rather than using illustrations, which cannot truly
depict the response of fabric draped on a dress
form. The images of muslin “sculpture” combined
with digital drafts offer interchangeable
solutions for pattern development.
Throughout the book, there are alternative
methods used by practicing designers for developing
slopers. These are master patterns, created
by draping or drafting and used to generate style
variations. We chose the basic components of the
dress as the model used throughout the text to
demonstrate how draping, drafting, and drawing
are integrated in design development. The components
are the skirt, bodice, neckline, collar,
sleeve, and dress foundation. These disciplines
are similarly integrated in the design of men’s and
children’s wear.
Each chapter builds on the last. After an
introduction to tools and preparation techniques
in Chapter 1, Chapters 2, 3, and 6 begin with
draping as the first step in producing a sloper.
Drafting the sloper is then offered as an alternative
method. Chapters 4, 5, and 7, focusing
respectively on bodice variations, necklines and
collars, and dresses, begin with drafting because,
for many of the design variations, these chapters
utilize slopers developed in the previous chapters.
In the case of a design variation such as the leg-omutton
sleeve, for example, drafting the pattern
is more efficient than draping it.
All design starts with an idea, which needs to
be translated into a sketch. Drawing basics are
interwoven throughout the book, with an emphasis
on understanding body lines in relation to the
dress form and proportion. It is directed toward
communicating specific garment detail in the context
of related projects. Lessons ground the creative
process and strike a balance between the
technical and visual elements. Drawing informs
draping and drafting, just as these disciplines
inform drawing. Step-by-step instructions on
PREFACE
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Integrating Draping, Drafting, and Drawing
| xii
drawing the fashion figure as well as flats are
included in each chapter. Drawings correspond to
patterns and convey countless ideas for design
diversification and inspiration.
In 2003, Kathleen Maggio curated the exhibit
Donald Brooks: Designer for all Seasons. She
became acquainted with Mr. Brooks and his
work while he served as a visiting designer critic
to the fashion design department of Parsons
School of Design. This twentieth century designer
is renowned for his accomplishments in costume
design as well as on Seventh Avenue. The
authors found that dresses from the exhibition
collection served as the ideal inspiration for this
book. Even using the basic garment components
taught in this book, Mr. Brooks’ designs exude
timelessness in their execution and fabrication.
Chapter 8 is devoted to drawing exercises
focused on rendering his designs and their fine
design details. It also depicts the relationship that
exists among draping, drafting, and drawing
exemplified in the images of garments from
Chapters 2 through 7.
Acknowledgments
We would like to thank Tim Maggio for his photography,
technical drawings, and graphics. Thank
you to Fred Gross for his word crafting
of drawing text and support. To Wolf Form
Company, thanks for their assistance. We are
grateful to Bill Rancitelli for his drawings, as well
as to Jerry Blum and Kay Blick for a glimpse
into Donald Brooks’ portfolio. Many thanks to
Fairchild Books editors Olga Kontzias, Sylvia
Weber, Jessica Rozler, and Beth Cohen and the
multi-talented Fairchild team for helping us to
bring this project together. To the reviewers selected
by the publisher, we express our appreciation of
their recommendations. They are Melanie Carrico,
Kent State University; Andy Chan, Massachusetts
College of Art; Kathy Mullet, Oregon State
University; Artis Rewerts, University of Texas—
Austin; Susan L. Stark, San Francisco State
University; and Sandra Tonz, Mt. Mary College.
We’d also like to thank our students, whose
enthusiasm and creativity continue to kindle our
passion for fashion.

With experience gained from producing the
skirt sloper, you can now develop the bodice
pattern. Draping the bodice involves balancing
the front and back muslin, distributing
and controlling fullness by forming darts,
and fitting the neckline and armhole. The
muslin drape is trued and transferred to
paper, and a sloper is created. Detailed
instructions depict taking measurements
and drafting a flat pattern for the bodice
as another option. Drawing the body
contours is a critical factor in visually
communicating the fit and form of
the bodice. Studies of body lines,
proportion, pose, flats, and specs
are included in this chapter.
3
B
OD
I
CE

Integrating Draping, Drafting, and Drawing
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56
Draping the Bodice
Prepare the Muslin
1 Front length: Measure from the
dress form neckband to the
waist at CF plus 2
2 Front width: Measure from the
CF at bust level to the side
seam plus 2 1 ⁄2
1
Tape the Dress Form
• Bust
• Center front and center back
• Princess lines
• Side seam
• Base of the neckline
• Shoulder seam
• Shoulder blade level
(4 down from neckline at CB)
• Armhole ridge
Note: Do not cover seam lines
with tape. Pin along side them.
Length
Side
Seam
Bust
Level
Width
Center
Front
Drape
1 Align the muslin length
and cross grain line
with the tape on the
dress form. Pin the
muslin at the CF neckline,
3 above and
below the bust tape and
waist. Pin the cross
grain line at the bust
point at princess line.
2 Distribute 1 ⁄2 ease
across the bust line and
pin cross mark at the
side seam.
2
Mark the Muslin
1 Measure 1 in from the lengthwise
torn edge. Draw in CF
line
2 Measure from the neckband to
the bust level. Square a line
across the muslin.
3 Measure from the CF to the
side seam across bust level.
Add 1 ⁄2 for ease. Cross mark
for the side seam on the bust
line.

1 2
Drape the Neckline
4
1 Pin at the intersection of the
center front seam and neckline
of the dress form.
2 To release the muslin for fitting,
cut a 2 2 square off the corner.
3 Pin and slash down the seam
allowance (perpendicular to the
neckline) toward pin.
4 Continue pinning and slashing
along neckline to the shoulder
seam. The muslin should lie
smoothly across the chest and
shoulder, with no stretching or
pulling at neckline. 1 ⁄8 ease
should be included.
7 8
9
Shoulder
Dart Neckline
Side
Seam
Center
Front
Bust
Level
Waistline
Form the Shoulder Dart
5 Smooth the muslin from the
shoulder neck point to the
princess line or midpoint on the
shoulder and pin.
6 Smooth the excess muslin from
the bust line pinned at the side
seam up over the shoulder
towards the princess line and
pin.
7 Fold the excess muslin to form
a dart. Pin the fullness at the
shoulder.
8 Pin the side seam starting at the
arm plate down to the waist.
9 Pin out the fullness from the
shoulder down towards the bust
point.
BODICE |57
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58
Draping the Bodice
1 3
Form the Waist Dart
1 From the side seam at waist,
pin along the waist toward the
princess line. Slash the muslin
towards the pins. Allow for
1 ⁄4 ease along waist.
2 Smooth and pin from the center
front waist towards the princess
line.
3 Fold the excess muslin to form a
dart. Pin the fullness at the waist
and pin the dart towards the
bust point.
Armhole
Side
Seam
Waist Dart
Bust Point
Center
Front
Waistline
5 6 7
Mark the Draped Muslin
4 With a pencil, dot along the bottom of the twill
tape along the waist and side seam.
5 Cross mark on either side of the dart at the waist
and the intersection of the side seam at the waist
and arm plate. Cross mark at the end of the
shoulder, on each side of the shoulder dart and at
the shoulder neck point.
6 Dot along the shoulder and neckline.
7 Fold the excess muslin to the front, clearing the
shoulder and side seam for the back drape.

Torn Edge
Shoulder
Blade
Level
Bust Line
Level
Center
Back Line
Back Muslin
Shoulder
Blade
Cross
Mark
Cross
Mark
for Side
Seam at
Bust Line
Tape
Prepare the Back Muslin
• Back length: Measure from the dress form neckband to the
waist at Center Back plus 2.
• Back width: Measure from the CB at bust level to the side seam
plus 3.
Mark the Muslin
1 Measure 1 in from the lengthwise torn edge. Draw in the
Center Back line.
2 Measure from the neckband to the bust level tape. Square a
line across the muslin.
3 Measure from the CB to the side seam across the tape. Add
1 for ease. Cross mark for the side seam on the bust line.
4 Align the length and cross grain lines with the bust line tape.
Mark and square a line for the shoulder blade level.
5 Measure across the shoulder blade level to the arm plate and
cross mark.
Drape the Back
1 Align the length and cross grain lines with the bust line tape.
Pin the muslin at the CB neck, shoulder blade, bust line, and
waist. Pin the cross grain line, distributing the ease along the
tape. Pin across the shoulder blade level, distributing 1 ⁄4 ease
to the cross mark at the armhole ridge.
2 Pin along the back neckline of the dress form, slashing down
the seam allowance toward the pins. Secure at the shoulder
seam.
BODICE |59
59

Integrating Draping, Drafting, and Drawing
| 60
Draping the Bodice
1 2
3 4
Form the Waist Dart
5 From the side seam at the waist, pin
along the waist toward the princess
line. Slash the muslin towards the pins.
Allow for 1 ⁄4 ease along the waist.
6 Smooth and pin from the center back
waist toward the princess line.
7 Pinch up the excess muslin to form
a dart. Pin the fullness at the waist
and pin the dart along the princess
line to 1 above the bust level line.
8 9 10
Form the Shoulder Dart
1 Smooth the muslin from the shoulder
neck point to the princess line on the
shoulder and pin. Muslin should lay
flat across the chest and shoulder
with no stretching or pulling at the
neckline.
2 Smooth the excess muslin from the
shoulder blade line at armhole up
over the shoulder towards the
princess line and pin.
3 Pinch up the excess muslin to form a
small dart along the princess line.
4 Measure 3 down from the shoulder
and mark the vanishing point of the
dart with a pin.
Mark the Draped Muslin
8 Dot along the bottom of the twill
tape along the waist and side seam.
9 Cross mark on either side of the
dart at the waist and the intersection
of the side seam at the waist
and arm plate. Cross mark at the
end of the shoulder, on each side
of the shoulder dart and at the
shoulder neck point.
10 Dot along the shoulder and neckline.

Join the Front and Back Bodice
1 Fold the leg of the dart closest to the centers
toward the sides and pin them closed. Pin the
front over the back at the side seam matching
the grain line and cross marks. Pin twill tape
around the bodice waistline.
2 Join and pin the front and back shoulders
together with the excess muslin turned out.
Trim, leaving 1 seam allowance.
3a 3b
4 5
3 Fold the front shoulder and pin over the back,
matching the shoulder darts.
4 The shoulder length for a size 8 should be 5.
The darts should be centered on the shoulder
seam.
5 Match the shoulder cross marks and dot around
the armhole ridge.
6 Dot along the lower half of the arm plate.
7 Blend the front and back waistline by marking
along tape.
1 2
6 7
BODICE |61
61

Integrating Draping, Drafting, and Drawing
| 62
Trueing the Bodice Muslin
1
3 Square a line from the center line 1 to begin
trueing the waistline.
3
5 Unpin and open the dart. Draw in the dart legs
with a straight ruler. For a sloper, the front dart
points may end at the bust level line. Measure
across the bust line. The front and back should
5
each include at least 1 ⁄2 ease.
1 Remove the muslin from the dress form, keeping
the side seams pinned together. Unpin the shoulder
seam.
2 With the darts still pinned closed, measure the
front and back waists. They should each include
1
⁄4 ease. Adjust if necessary.
2
4
4 Use a hip curve ruler to continue drawing the
waistline along the dots.
Sketching the Upper Torso
Bust Line

6 Lower the armhole at side seam 1.
7
8 The back armhole will need to be drawn with
the curve in two parts since it’s 1 longer than
the front.
9 Draw the side seams.
9
Princess Seams
Center
Front
Mapping Out
Darts on
the Torso
6
8
7 Use a curve ruler to draw in the armhole.
It should reflect the curve of the arm plate.
10 Pin the shoulder darts closed and draw the
shoulder seam. The back shoulder seams may be
slightly curved from the princess line to the neck.
Use the curve to draw that in.
10
BODICE |63
63

Integrating Draping, Drafting, and Drawing
| 64
Trueing the Bodice Muslin
11
12
13a
13b
14
11 Remove the pins at the mouth of the darts. Slip folded carbon
paper inside the dart and run a tracing wheel across the seam
to obtain the jog of the dart.
12 Neckline Pin the shoulders together. Lower the neckline 1 ⁄4 at
the center front and widen the neck 1 ⁄8 at the shoulder seam.
Use an L-square for the first 1 ⁄4 of the neckline in the front and
1 ⁄2 in the back.
13 Draw the new neckline with a curve that reflects the curve of
the originally marked neck.
14 Complete the drape by trimming the seam allowance to 1 ⁄2 at
the armhole and neckline. A 1 seam should be allowed for the
side seam, shoulder, waist, and centers.

15 Pin the trued and trimmed muslin back together to check the fit on the form. Mark a notch at the
screw level on the armholes and a second notch 1 ⁄4 below the notch for the back.
Drawing Flats
Steps for drawing a flat free-hand
without a flat figure reference.
1 Neckline
2 Shoulder and
then Armhole
3 Creating
Matching
Side Seams
4 Planning
Hemline Width
5 Starting
Shoulder Darts
6 Finishing
Waistline Darts
Drawing a flat figure as a guide or reference to establish the correct
proportion and fit of a garment.
Tracing Paper or Semi-
Translucent Marker Paper
Flat Figure Sketch on
Another Page
A B C
Sketching Only
the Garment as it
Would Fit
Flat of Your
Garment
without the
Figure
D
A Proportions
B Sewing Lines
C Fit
D FInished Flat
BODICE |65
65

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| 66
Making the Bodice Sloper
Paper Pattern to Sloper
1 Cut oaktag twice the size of the
pattern. Fold it in half and press
a sharp, flat folded edge. Draw
a cross grain line using an Lsquare.
Fold the center seam
allowance of the paper pattern
under and align with the fold
and the cross grain.
2 Transfer all pattern lines to the
oaktag using a needle point
tracing wheel.
Muslin to Paper Pattern
1 Mark any additional corrections on the muslin pattern, remove
the pins and press flat.
2 Draw length and cross grain lines on the pattern paper. Place the
muslin on the paper, matching grain lines. Use pattern weights
or push pins to hold the muslin in place.
3 Transfer pattern lines onto the paper using a tracing wheel with
a serrated edge. Working on a soft surface such as cork is ideal.
Guide the wheel with a ruler for smooth transfer of lines.
4 Allow 1 for the side seam, shoulder, and center seam
allowances. The neckline, armhole, and waist have 1 ⁄2
allowance. Extend all seam lines into the seam allowances.

Drawing Darts for
This Bodice
3 Draw seam and dart lines with a pencil, using
straight and curve rulers. Mark length grain
lines parallel to the center lines.
4 Cut straight lines with a blade. Use scissors or
pattern shears to cut curved lines. Seam
allowances are not necessary on slopers.
5 Notch the dart legs, armholes and cross grain
line at side seam.
6 Punch a hole at the apex of the darts.
7 Complete the sloper by punching a large hole
and hanging it on a pattern hook.
Fit Construction Detail
Flat of
This Bodice
BODICE |67
67

Integrating Draping, Drafting, and Drawing
| 68
Drafting the Bodice from Measurements
N L
K+
+
+
I+
H
D
1 Center front
length (base of
neck to waist)
+ M
L1
G
E
+ A
1”
J + + +
+ B
J1
F
I+
+
1/2” 7/8”
H
D
Back
N Z3 L
K+
+
+
V +
X
+
+ M
L1
5/8”
+ P
G
E
Front
Q +
+ O
C
+
A
J + + +
+ B
J1
U
Y
F
T
Back
W
+
W1
approx. 1”
+ Z4
_
+
+ P
armplate
screw
Z1
_
Z2+
S1
approx. 1”
+
S
11/4” R
+
Front
Q +
1/4”
+ O
C
2 Bust circumference (fullest
part at bust level). Pin tape
parallel to the floor
N L
K+
+
+
I+
H
D
V +
3/8”
X
+
+ M
L1
3 Front neck to
bust level
G
E
4 1 ⁄2 bust
circumference
CF to CB
+ A
1” 1”
J + + 1” 1”
+
+ B
J1
U
Y
F
T
I+
+
H
D
Back
W
+
3/4”
W1
N Z3 L
K+
+
+
+ M
L1
+ P
G
E
+
S
1”
S1
1”
R
+
Front
Q +
+ O
C
+
A
J + + +
+ + B
J1
U
Y
F
T
1”
Accurate measurements are required to draft a bodice sloper. Carefully measure the dress form or human figure
and record these illustrated measurements. The following pages provide step-by-step drafting instructions.
Measuring the Dress Form
V +
X
+
Back
W
+
W1
+ Z4
_
+
+ P
Z1
_
Z2+
S1
+
S
R
+
Front
Q +
+ O
C

5 Side seam
(waist to 1
below arm
plate)
10 Back waist
to shoulder
(1 from CB
waist to end of
shoulder)
15 Front
shoulder length
6 Back neck
to bust level
11 Back
shoulder (base
of neck to end
of shoulder)
7 Center back
length (base of
neck to waist)
12 Front
shoulder neck
to waist
8 Back
shoulder, neck
to waist
13 Across
front chest
16 Bust point to bust point 17 Waist
circumference
9 Across back
shoulder
(armhole to
armhole)
14 Front
waist to
shoulder
18 Across back
BODICE |69
69

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| 70
70
Drafting the Bodice from Measurements
1 A to B = Center Front Length - Extend a straight
line 2 in from the right side of a 24 24 sheet
of pattern paper
2 A to C = the distance from the base of the Neck
to the Bust level
3 C to D = 1 ⁄2 the Bust Circumference plus 1 1 ⁄4
ease
4 D to E = 1 ⁄2 CD minus 1 ⁄4
5 E to F = Side Seam guideline (bust level to waist)
6 F to G = Side Seam (waist to 1 below armplate).
Extend the guideline to the top of the
paper
7 G to H = Square a line to the Center Back
from G. Extend the line 2 1 ⁄4 toward the front
8 D to I = Bust level to the Back Neck
9 I to J = Center Back Length
10 J to K = Waist to the Shoulder Neck Point -
Square a line across to the side seam guideline
11 K to L = 1 ⁄2 of Across Shoulder measurement
plus 1 for dart & ease
12 Square a guideline from L down to H-G.
Drafting
Diagram
Steps 1 – 21
N L
K+
+
+
I+
H
D
+ M
L1
G
E
1”
J + + +
+ B
J1
F
Back
Mark L 1 where they intersect
13 Square a guideline from J toward F for the back
waist
14 Square a guideline from B to F for the front waist
15 J to J1 = 1
16 J1 to M = Set the ruler at J1 - measure the
Back Waist to Shoulder length to the point
where it intersects with line L-L1 17 M to N = Set the ruler at M - measure the
Shoulder length plus 1 for dart/ease to the
point where it intersects with line K-L
18 B to O = the Center Front Waist to Shoulder
Neck point. Square a guideline across to the
side seam guideline
19 Draw a parallel guideline 5 ⁄8 to the right of the
side seam line from the top towards line G-H
20 B to P = Center Front Waist to Shoulder
at armhole. Place the ruler at B, mark where
it intersects the 5 ⁄8 guideline
21 P to Q = Front Shoulder length plus 2 for the
dart
5/8”
+ P
Front
Q +
+ O
+ A
C

22 C to R = 1 ⁄2 the Bust Point to Bust Point
23 Square a line from R to the waist guideline.
Measure 1 on either side of the line and draw
dart legs. Extend all dart lines 1 ⁄2 past the waist
guideline
24 B to T = 1 ⁄4 of the Waist circumference plus
2 3 ⁄4 (the front is 1 ⁄2 wider than the back, plus
1
⁄4 ease, plus 2 for the dart)
25 T to G = Front Side Seam
26 Q to S = 1 ⁄2 the Front Shoulder
27 S to S 1 = 2 for the Dart. At the center of the
dart extend a guideline down to R. Connect
dart legs to R and extend all lines 1 ⁄2 past the
shoulder guideline
28 V = Intersection of J 1 – M with line G-H. Shift
3 ⁄4 towards the Center Back and mark V
29 U = Square a line down from V, extending 1 ⁄2
past the waist guideline
Drafting
Diagram
Steps 22 – 36
N L
K+
+
+
I+
H
D
V +
3/8”
X
+
+ M
L1
G
E
1” 1”
J + + 1” 1”
+
+ B
J1
U
Y
F
T
Back
W
+
3/4”
W1
30 Mark 1 on each side of line and connect the
dart legs to V - Extend the dart legs 1 ⁄2 past the
waist guideline
31 J to Y = 1 ⁄4 of the Waist minus 1 ⁄2, plus 2 1 ⁄4
for dart and ease
32 Y to G = Back Side Seam
33 N to W = 1 ⁄2 the Shoulder plus 1 ⁄8 ease
34 W – W 1 = 3 ⁄4 (Dart)
35 From the dart midpoint draw a guideline 3 1 ⁄2
to X
36 Connect the dart legs to X. Extend dart lines 1 ⁄2
beyond the shoulder line
+ P
S1
+
S
1” 1”
R
+
Front
Q +
+ O
+ A
C
BODICE |71
71

Integrating Draping, Drafting, and Drawing
| 72
Drafting the Bodice from Measurements
Drafting the Neckline and Armholes
37 Square a horizontal guideline from the Center
Front and Back Neck. Square a vertical line up
to the Shoulder Neck Point
38 Front Neck: Draw a 1 1 ⁄4 guideline at a 45degree
angle to the guideline square. Use a
French curve to draw in the neckline A-Q. Keep
the Center Front neckline level for 1 ⁄4 before
curving
39 Back Neck: Draw a 7 ⁄8 guideline at a 45-degree
angle to the guideline square. Use a French
curve to draw in the neckline I-N. Keep the
Center Back neckline level for 1 ⁄2 before
curving
40 Front Armhole: O to Z1 = 1 ⁄2 the Across Chest
measurement. Square a guideline down to H-G
Drafting Diagram
Steps 37 – 47
N Z3 L
K+
+
+
I+
72
+
+ P
+ A
X
H
D
+
1/2” 7/8”
V +
+
+ M
L1
G
E
J + + +
+ B
J1
U
Y
F
T
Back
W
+
W1
approx. 1”
+ Z4
_
41 Z2 = 2 ⁄3 of Z1 - H-G
42 Square a line from H-G to Z2 43 Draw a 1 guideline at a 45-degree angle to the
guideline square. Draw P-Z2-G using a French
curve.
44 Back Armhole: K – Z3 = 1 ⁄2 the Across Back
measurement. Square a guideline down to H-G
45 Z4 = 1 ⁄2 Z3 - H-G
46 Square a line from H-G to Z4 47 Draw a 1 guideline at a 45-degree angle to the
guideline square. Draw the lower armhole Z4-G and the upper armhole Z4-M using a French
curve
+
armplate
screw
Z2
Z1
_
+
S1
approx. 1”
+
S
11/4” R
+
Front
Q +
1/4”
+ O
C

Drafting the Waistline and Shoulders
48 Separate the front and back bodice. Fold the
waist dart legs closest to the centers towards
the sides. Pin the darts closed. Match and pin
the side seam together
49 Square a line 1 from the Center Front and
back waist towards the side seam. Use a curve
ruler to blend the front and back waists
50 Run a tracing wheel across the waist and draw
in the jog of the darts
51 Fold the shoulder darts dart legs closest to the
centers towards the sides. Pin the darts closed.
Draw a straight line from Q to P for the front
and from N to M for the back. Run a tracing
wheel across the shoulder and draw in the jog
of the darts. Note: The back shoulder can be
slightly curved when adjusted on the figure
Drafting Diagram
Steps 48 – 53
N Z3 L
K+
+
+
I+
H
D
+
V +
X
+
+ M
L1
G
E
J + + +
+ B
J1
U
Y
F
T
Back
W
+
52 Match and pin the bodice shoulders together.
The back is slightly longer for ease. Blend the
front and back neckline and armhole at the
shoulder
53 Measure and prepare two pieces of muslin.
Transfer the draft to muslin using a tracing
wheel and carbon paper. Add seam allowance
and cut out. Pin fit and adjust
W1
+ Z4
_
+
+ P
Z2
Z1
_
+
S1
+
S
R
+
Front
Q +
+ 1”
+ O
+ A
+
C
BODICE |73
73

Integrating Draping, Drafting, and Drawing
| 74
74
Drafting the Bodice from Measurements
Completed Bodice Draft
Center
Back
Bodice
Center
Back
Bodice
Shoulder Blade Level
Bust Level
This sloper is used for drafting styles that include set-in sleeves.
1/2”
Adjusted sloper for use in sleeveless styles.
e
c
i
d
o
B
t
n
o
r
F
r
e
t
n
e
C
e
c
i
d
o
B
t
n
o
r
F
r
e
t
n
e
C

Shaping the Bodice
Full
Front
Bust Line
Contour
Scapula or
Shoulder
Blades
Bodice
Length
Bodice Dart
Position
Bodice Fit
Bust
Level
The fit on the front of the bodice is designed to contour over
the bust apex. The bust apex is the fullest point across the chest.
The bust level runs between the front darts.
Full
Back
The fit on the back of the bodice is constructed to accommodate
the subtle contours of the scapula or shoulder blades. The shoulder
blade level runs above and parallel to the bust level across
the back of the bodice.
Shoulder
Blade
Level
Back
Dart
Position
Shoulder
Blade
Level
Bust
Level
BODICE |75
75

Integrating Draping, Drafting, and Drawing
| 76
Drawing Options
Figure
Angles
Notice how the direction of the torso,
in any pose, affects the contours or
curves in the sewing lines, as they turn
with the figure.
Form and
Function
The function of the darts is to make a
garment fit or follow the form, in this
case, the form of the bust line curve.
Body
Planes
The torso can be divided into four sides.
This pose shows off two sides and the
front of this square. The turn direction,
for this pose, is evident in the sides and
affects where you draw the dart lines.
Pose
Posing a flat has the
advantage of
emphasizing fit:
in this example,
the look or fit of
the bodice as it
hugs the chest.
Flat
Flats give you all of
the construction and
shape detail without
the possible distortion
of a posed flat.
Spec
Specs provide the most
comprehensive detailing
for every aspect in
creating a garment, to
produce it en masse.
Elongated
Fashion
Figure

Shape
Shape Darts
Shape Darts
Big Overall
Measurements
Posed
Flat Finish
Posed The posed flat is usually drawn to emphasize
fit, to highlight form or function. This pose shows
off the bustline contouring.
Flat The flat, not posed, focuses on pure shape, construction,
and proportion. In this case, the bustline
contouring is not emphasized.
Small Interior
Measurements
Technical Flat Sketch for Production
Finish
Non-Posed Portfolio
or Studio Flat
Adding Exterior
Measurements
Note:
Shading
Softens
Look of
Fabric
and Also
Accents the
Fit or Form
Flat Turned
into a Spec
Spec The spec has to be drawn as a precise, plain
flat to reflect the “specifics” of its fit to document its
measurements for production.
BODICE |77
77