Crab Orchard Review Vol. 12, No. 2, our
Crab Orchard Review Vol. 12, No. 2, our Crab Orchard Review Vol. 12, No. 2, our
Kim Foote 160 ◆ Crab Orchard Review New Christmas The cloudy sky over Elmina hints at rain, an anomaly in a long-awaited dry season. It’s the first Thursday of January 2003, and my mood is dampened by more than weather. For one, I have no clothes that are black and white, now the preferred colors for celebrations or funerals in southern Ghana. Mr. Sikayεfi, my research assistant, navigates his car through Elmina’s narrow, winding streets. He reaches over to rub my shoulder and asks if I’m okay. I flash him a grimace. The first time I met him, before the Christmas season began, he promised to have a family for me to interview during the annual Edina Bronya festival—Elmina’s new year celebration. Without a family’s permission, we’ll be unable to witness the first half of the ceremony, where families gather at the ancestral home to remember relatives who died the previous year. After being away from Mr. Sikayεfi for Christmas with friends in Accra, he claims to have found no one. We stop to pick up Mr. Mensah, who Mr. Sikayεfi tells me is a local historian. With his salt-and-pepper hair, squinty eyes, and spunky attitude, Mr. Mensah reminds me of my grandfather. Seeing my glum face, Mr. Mensah assures me that we’ll have no trouble locating a family. When we reach a street full of people wearing black-and-white, Mr. Sikayεfi parks alongside the gutter. Mr. Mensah hops out to chat with a woman in a dress of black-and-white kente cloth. Her hair is covered with a shiny black scarf. She suddenly claps her hands and looks toward the car, nodding. Mr. Mensah beckons to us. Mr. Sikayεfi smiles at me and rubs my shoulder. “You see, Yaa?” But will we see slave artifacts is the question. Ever since I arrived in Ghana a few months earlier, I’ve been anticipating Bronya. My goal in the country has been to research slave history at Elmina, the Dutch West India Company’s headquarters during the trans-Atlantic slave trade. In Ghana, where it is taboo to refer to anyone’s slave ancestry, I’ve been hoping to become familiar enough to some families for them to do just that. More importantly, I’ve heard that Bronya might be
Kim Foote the only time each year that families owning slavery artifacts might display them. The only families who observe this rite are those whose ancestors were amongst the town’s original settlers or who were prominent citizens. On Thursday and Saturday, libations are performed for relatives who’ve died a “normal” death, whereas Friday and Sunday are for deaths considered unnatural, like from suicide or AIDS. When one’s close relative dies, he or she must provide food and drinks for three successive Bronya. This proves to be too expensive for some people, and they’re barred from participating until they can afford it. Mr. Sikayεfi and I follow Mr. Mensah and the woman up an alley that turns into a courtyard. On the ground, a raised cement square with a hole in it catches my attention. Mr. Mensah explains that it’s an altar. Sprinkled around the hole are offerings for the ancestors: a piece of chicken cooked in a red stew, white mashed yam, and εto—mashed yam made red from palm oil. Several family members stand on a narrow porch beyond the altar. They hold hands and bow their heads in prayer. I’m surprised to hear them emit a soft chorus of “Amen” instead of an indigenous Akan spiritual term. Mr. Mensah, looking none too pleased, tells me that they were praying to the Christian God for blessings during the libation pouring. Christianity is no new concept in southern Ghana. It was introduced to Elmina in the 1400s with the arrival of the Portuguese, but there are some, like Mr. Mensah, who prefer to retain the indigenous spiritual concepts. Mr. Sikayεfi announces our presence and purpose for visiting. The family consents and we shake their hands from right to left, as tradition dictates. Mr. Mensah and I get seats next to each other, near an altar in the corner. He tells me to take pictures, but I can’t. I feel like I’ll be intruding. Moreover, I know how sensitive some Ghanaians are about getting photographed, especially when they end up on postcards or in advertisements and don’t receive compensation. Mr. Mensah passes my camera to Mr. Sikayεfi, who snaps away while I take mental photos. Most of the attendees are over fifty and female, and mostly all wear black-and-white cloth. Some of the men wear theirs traditionally wrapped, almost like togas, including the tall, thin elder with bright white hair sitting in front of the altar. Mr. Mensah points out the parrot carved into the elder’s stool. It’s the emblem for the Anona clan, to which the family belongs. Crab Orchard Review ◆ 161
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Kim Foote<br />
the only time each year that families owning slavery artifacts might<br />
display them.<br />
The only families who observe this rite are those whose ancestors<br />
were amongst the town’s original settlers or who were prominent<br />
citizens. On Thursday and Saturday, libations are performed for<br />
relatives who’ve died a “normal” death, whereas Friday and Sunday<br />
are for deaths considered unnatural, like from suicide or AIDS. When<br />
one’s close relative dies, he or she must provide food and drinks for<br />
three successive Bronya. This proves to be too expensive for some<br />
people, and they’re barred from participating until they can afford it.<br />
Mr. Sikayεfi and I follow Mr. Mensah and the woman up an alley<br />
that turns into a c<strong>our</strong>tyard. On the ground, a raised cement square<br />
with a hole in it catches my attention. Mr. Mensah explains that it’s an<br />
altar. Sprinkled around the hole are offerings for the ancestors: a piece<br />
of chicken cooked in a red stew, white mashed yam, and εto—mashed<br />
yam made red from palm oil.<br />
Several family members stand on a narrow porch beyond the<br />
altar. They hold hands and bow their heads in prayer. I’m surprised<br />
to hear them emit a soft chorus of “Amen” instead of an indigenous<br />
Akan spiritual term. Mr. Mensah, looking none too pleased, tells me<br />
that they were praying to the Christian God for blessings during the<br />
libation p<strong>our</strong>ing.<br />
Christianity is no new concept in southern Ghana. It was<br />
introduced to Elmina in the 1400s with the arrival of the Portuguese,<br />
but there are some, like Mr. Mensah, who prefer to retain the<br />
indigenous spiritual concepts.<br />
Mr. Sikayεfi announces <strong>our</strong> presence and purpose for visiting.<br />
The family consents and we shake their hands from right to left, as<br />
tradition dictates. Mr. Mensah and I get seats next to each other, near<br />
an altar in the corner. He tells me to take pictures, but I can’t. I feel like<br />
I’ll be intruding. Moreover, I know how sensitive some Ghanaians are<br />
about getting photographed, especially when they end up on postcards<br />
or in advertisements and don’t receive compensation.<br />
Mr. Mensah passes my camera to Mr. Sikayεfi, who snaps away<br />
while I take mental photos. Most of the attendees are over fifty and<br />
female, and mostly all wear black-and-white cloth. Some of the men<br />
wear theirs traditionally wrapped, almost like togas, including the<br />
tall, thin elder with bright white hair sitting in front of the altar. Mr.<br />
Mensah points out the parrot carved into the elder’s stool. It’s the<br />
emblem for the Anona clan, to which the family belongs.<br />
<strong>Crab</strong> <strong>Orchard</strong> <strong>Review</strong> ◆ 161