Crab Orchard Review Vol. 12, No. 2, our

Crab Orchard Review Vol. 12, No. 2, our Crab Orchard Review Vol. 12, No. 2, our

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134 ◆ Crab Orchard Review Terez Rose in the moment, singing and swaying with the music. The thunderous drumbeats echoes off the walls and fills the building, resonating in her head. She feels far from home right then. And she’s glad. The next morning, over Christmas muffins, scrambled eggs, and coffee, Kate can’t stop raving about the pageantry of the mass. “I know dance,” she tells Carmen and Henry. “Those women were as good as professionals. They had such incredible energy, such finesse.” “You think that was great,” says Henry as he butters his third muffin, “you should check out my village on New Year’s Eve. They throw a hell of a party. There’s a troupe of women—priestesses, actually—who come to the village every year and perform in a special dance ceremony to usher in the new year.” “Ooh, I’d love it. And your village is on the way back to my town.” She turns to Carmen. “You game to check it out?” “Count me in.” They arrive at Henry’s on New Year’s Eve day. Henry’s village is a roadside clearing of mud and wattle huts with rusting corrugated tin roofs, surrounded by dusty, open yards. Henry comes out of the corps de garde, an open-sided thatched structure in the center of the village, to greet the two women. He brings them over and introduces them to the village chief and some of the elders. Kate and Carmen join them in the corps de garde and sit back to drink beer. The village feels like the Africa of the Peace Corps brochures. Gone is traffic, commerce, stress. Children band together and race around in yards kept scrupulously free of foliage. Hens peck at the dirt. The peaceful silence is periodically broken by a burst of scolding coming from one of the cuisines, a structure adjacent to the house that serves as its kitchen. The children skitter away from the women and resume their play. They creep up closer to the corps de garde and when Kate twists around to look at them, they run away shrieking. When she turns her back, they repeat the exercise. After they finish their beers, Henry shows Kate and Carmen his home, a mud and wattle structure like the other dwellings in the village. Inside the dim living room, a woman sweeps the dirt floor, nodding her greeting. “Living room, bedroom,” Henry calls out, pointing to the sparsely furnished rooms with crumbling walls that allow light to peek in through cracks. “Cuisine to the right of the house, latrine out back.”

Terez Rose The women of the village appear to have adopted Henry. Several hover nearby, in village attire of a pagne—a swath of colorful fabric wrapped around the waist, accompanied by a blouse or T-shirt. Henry takes Kate and Carmen into the smoky cuisine to meet the woman who is preparing for the New Year’s Eve feast. She is small, almost pygmy-sized, neither young nor old. When she stands, Kate sees that one of her legs is hideously twisted in a way that makes her limp when walking. She beams and shakes their hands with a surprisingly strong grip. She pauses after shaking Kate’s. Peering closer into Kate’s face, the woman crows and says something in the local language. The other women exclaim and nod. One of them propels Kate toward the door where the daylight spills in. They all study her face. Finally, one of the women explains in French. “It’s your eyes. She says you have spirit eyes.” Kate’s pale blue eyes, like her pale hair, draw constant attention here. She has learned to simply nod and smile. “Merci, mama,” she says to the lame woman. “Merci,” she keeps repeating. Finally the women return to the cooking fire, chattering among themselves. The darkness that falls in a region with no electricity seems that much more dramatic. The inky blackness on New Year’s Eve, however, does nothing to dispel the festive air in the village. The food for the celebration, set out on a table inside Henry’s house, varies little in color and texture. Bowls of rice sit next to dishes of stewed pangolin, stewed river rat, stewed monkey, all cooked in a fiery tomato sauce. Piment, the local fiery pepper, helps disguise the gamey flavor of the river rat, which, a woman assures Kate, lives in the jungle, not in a sewer or latrine. Feuille de manioc, a dish of chopped manioc leaves, tastes a bit like spicy creamed spinach with smoky, earthy undertones. “Not bad,” Kate says to Carmen as they sit on benches set up outside. “Except that I just pulled this thing out of my mouth.” She points to a grayish curl of skin on the edge of her tin plate. “It was furry against my tongue—I think it’s monkey skin.” Henry holds up his plate of stewed pangolin. “Tastes just like chicken, doesn’t it?” Music blares from Henry’s battery-operated cassette player. Two men light an enormous bonfire. The group swells in size and the villagers eat every last bite of food. Once the women clear away the dishes, the cassette player is turned off. Crab Orchard Review ◆ 135

Terez Rose<br />

The women of the village appear to have adopted Henry. Several<br />

hover nearby, in village attire of a pagne—a swath of colorful fabric<br />

wrapped around the waist, accompanied by a blouse or T-shirt. Henry<br />

takes Kate and Carmen into the smoky cuisine to meet the woman<br />

who is preparing for the New Year’s Eve feast. She is small, almost<br />

pygmy-sized, neither young nor old. When she stands, Kate sees<br />

that one of her legs is hideously twisted in a way that makes her limp<br />

when walking. She beams and shakes their hands with a surprisingly<br />

strong grip. She pauses after shaking Kate’s. Peering closer into Kate’s<br />

face, the woman crows and says something in the local language. The<br />

other women exclaim and nod. One of them propels Kate toward the<br />

door where the daylight spills in. They all study her face. Finally, one<br />

of the women explains in French. “It’s y<strong>our</strong> eyes. She says you have<br />

spirit eyes.”<br />

Kate’s pale blue eyes, like her pale hair, draw constant attention<br />

here. She has learned to simply nod and smile. “Merci, mama,” she says<br />

to the lame woman. “Merci,” she keeps repeating. Finally the women<br />

return to the cooking fire, chattering among themselves.<br />

The darkness that falls in a region with no electricity seems<br />

that much more dramatic. The inky blackness on New Year’s Eve,<br />

however, does nothing to dispel the festive air in the village.<br />

The food for the celebration, set out on a table inside Henry’s<br />

house, varies little in color and texture. Bowls of rice sit next to dishes<br />

of stewed pangolin, stewed river rat, stewed monkey, all cooked in a<br />

fiery tomato sauce. Piment, the local fiery pepper, helps disguise the<br />

gamey flavor of the river rat, which, a woman assures Kate, lives in the<br />

jungle, not in a sewer or latrine. Feuille de manioc, a dish of chopped<br />

manioc leaves, tastes a bit like spicy creamed spinach with smoky,<br />

earthy undertones.<br />

“<strong>No</strong>t bad,” Kate says to Carmen as they sit on benches set up<br />

outside. “Except that I just pulled this thing out of my mouth.” She<br />

points to a grayish curl of skin on the edge of her tin plate. “It was<br />

furry against my tongue—I think it’s monkey skin.”<br />

Henry holds up his plate of stewed pangolin. “Tastes just like<br />

chicken, doesn’t it?”<br />

Music blares from Henry’s battery-operated cassette player. Two<br />

men light an enormous bonfire. The group swells in size and the<br />

villagers eat every last bite of food. Once the women clear away the<br />

dishes, the cassette player is turned off.<br />

<strong>Crab</strong> <strong>Orchard</strong> <strong>Review</strong> ◆ 135

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