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Boring and Milling Table - Home Model Engine Machinist

Boring and Milling Table - Home Model Engine Machinist

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the top <strong>and</strong> boring the hole for the sleeve.<br />

If the table is made smaller than this, it can<br />

probably be turned <strong>and</strong> bored on the faceplate<br />

of the lathe itself, but the larger size<br />

will be more useful.<br />

After the machining had been done, the<br />

holes for clamping work to the table were<br />

drilled as in Fig. 2, <strong>and</strong> tapped ¼"-20. They<br />

may be laid out to suit individual requirements,<br />

or the table can be left blank <strong>and</strong><br />

holes drilled as necessary to suit the job in<br />

h<strong>and</strong>.<br />

Turning the clamping screw from solid<br />

steel (Fig. 3) was a simple lathe job. The<br />

screw was threaded 5/16"-18, <strong>and</strong> the hole<br />

for it drilled in the table casting before the<br />

clamping slot was cut with a hack saw.<br />

One half of the hole was tapped to fit, the<br />

other half drilled out to clear the threads.<br />

This completed the work on the table, which<br />

is shown with the clamping screw in place in<br />

Fig. 4.<br />

Cold-rolled steel was turned <strong>and</strong> bored to<br />

the dimensions shown for the base of the<br />

supporting column (Fig. 5). The bottom<br />

of this piece was made to fit the lathe, so<br />

that it can be clamped to the cross slide in<br />

place of the compound rest. Reversed in the<br />

lathe <strong>and</strong> supported by the steady rest, as in<br />

Fig. 6, the column was left-h<strong>and</strong> threaded<br />

for the adjusting screw, a specially ground<br />

cutter bit being used. The keyway was<br />

made with a Woodruff keyway cutter while<br />

the work was held in a milling attachment.<br />

A brass tube of a size to be a nice sliding<br />

fit on the column was squared on both ends<br />

while held in the three-jaw chuck <strong>and</strong> supported<br />

by the steady rest, then drilled for<br />

screws to hold the key fast. The end cap<br />

was turned from steel to a snap fit in the<br />

sleeve, then reversed in the chuck as in<br />

Fig. 7 for threading the hole for the adjusting-screw<br />

guide. Drilling <strong>and</strong> tapping the<br />

holes for the two retaining screws, which<br />

was done with the end cap snapped into<br />

place in the sleeve, completed the supporting<br />

column.<br />

The adjusting screw was made from ½"<br />

steel rod, centerdrilled at each end <strong>and</strong><br />

turned between centers (Fig. 8). The lefth<strong>and</strong><br />

Acme threads, 10 to the inch, were cut<br />

to fit those in the steel column. The work<br />

NOVEMBER, 189

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