Boring and Milling Table - Home Model Engine Machinist
Boring and Milling Table - Home Model Engine Machinist
Boring and Milling Table - Home Model Engine Machinist
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the top <strong>and</strong> boring the hole for the sleeve.<br />
If the table is made smaller than this, it can<br />
probably be turned <strong>and</strong> bored on the faceplate<br />
of the lathe itself, but the larger size<br />
will be more useful.<br />
After the machining had been done, the<br />
holes for clamping work to the table were<br />
drilled as in Fig. 2, <strong>and</strong> tapped ¼"-20. They<br />
may be laid out to suit individual requirements,<br />
or the table can be left blank <strong>and</strong><br />
holes drilled as necessary to suit the job in<br />
h<strong>and</strong>.<br />
Turning the clamping screw from solid<br />
steel (Fig. 3) was a simple lathe job. The<br />
screw was threaded 5/16"-18, <strong>and</strong> the hole<br />
for it drilled in the table casting before the<br />
clamping slot was cut with a hack saw.<br />
One half of the hole was tapped to fit, the<br />
other half drilled out to clear the threads.<br />
This completed the work on the table, which<br />
is shown with the clamping screw in place in<br />
Fig. 4.<br />
Cold-rolled steel was turned <strong>and</strong> bored to<br />
the dimensions shown for the base of the<br />
supporting column (Fig. 5). The bottom<br />
of this piece was made to fit the lathe, so<br />
that it can be clamped to the cross slide in<br />
place of the compound rest. Reversed in the<br />
lathe <strong>and</strong> supported by the steady rest, as in<br />
Fig. 6, the column was left-h<strong>and</strong> threaded<br />
for the adjusting screw, a specially ground<br />
cutter bit being used. The keyway was<br />
made with a Woodruff keyway cutter while<br />
the work was held in a milling attachment.<br />
A brass tube of a size to be a nice sliding<br />
fit on the column was squared on both ends<br />
while held in the three-jaw chuck <strong>and</strong> supported<br />
by the steady rest, then drilled for<br />
screws to hold the key fast. The end cap<br />
was turned from steel to a snap fit in the<br />
sleeve, then reversed in the chuck as in<br />
Fig. 7 for threading the hole for the adjusting-screw<br />
guide. Drilling <strong>and</strong> tapping the<br />
holes for the two retaining screws, which<br />
was done with the end cap snapped into<br />
place in the sleeve, completed the supporting<br />
column.<br />
The adjusting screw was made from ½"<br />
steel rod, centerdrilled at each end <strong>and</strong><br />
turned between centers (Fig. 8). The lefth<strong>and</strong><br />
Acme threads, 10 to the inch, were cut<br />
to fit those in the steel column. The work<br />
NOVEMBER, 189