The tuscan Way - Villa Ferraia

the tuscan way
The San Galgano Abbey
Geoff Young
All photos by Geoff Young
Palio delle Contrade photos by Tamara Sorley
the sound of hooves approaching
on the road meant a king was
traveling…or soldiers were coming.
On this ancient road, through the gentle
hills of the Val D’Orcia valley, you could
see the horsehair crest on the bronze
helmet rise up from the road, followed
by a Roman soldier.
A mule carrying a man and his son
moved to one side of the road. The rest of
the travelers, all on foot, slowly shuffled
a parting through which the horses with
their shining riders passed.
I moved my horse to the edge of the
stone bridge, built 200 years before
Christ, and watched as the procession of
people continued their pilgrimage
towards the holy city of Rome.
I blinked, and two thousand years
passed. I was on horseback riding the
ancient Francigena Road in Tuscany,
following a road of our origins, and
discovering a spiritual connection to
history, and ancient humans and their
horses as we traveled this historic road
of pilgrimage.
My wife Valerie and I arrived in
Florence with our host, Tamara Sorley,
the program director for “Destination
Everything Italian!” Tamara, from the
U.S., and her Italian partner Vittorio
Cambria, have put together a travel
program that encompasses a real taste of
the “Tuscan Way,” from horseback
adventures to cooking classes, wine
tasting, city strolling and spa indulgences,
and food, glorious Italian food.
What Tamara and Vittorio have
created is an all-inclusive week that will
cater to your every need regardless of
what you want to do. What we came to
do was ride horses, drink wine, eat food,
and experience a Tuscan way of life that
is slowly disappearing.
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La Nostra Sede Italiana
(Our Italian Home)
Vittorio picked us up at the airport,
and after a stop at Gelateria Badiani for an
espresso and a dish of Florence’s finest
gelato, we headed south towards Siena
and on to Borgo di Ferraia (Iron Hamlet),
Vittorio’s renovated 12th century villa that
would be our home for the next week.
Named for the iron that was mined in this
area during medieval times, Ferraia,
which dates back to 1204, was inhabited
until the start of World War II. From then
on it fell into ruin until 1995, when Vittorio
began acquiring the hamlet.
Vittorio is passionate about
preserving the history and feel of this
area, and so he undertook what has now
been a ten-year mission to renovate the
hamlet, staying true to the materials of
stone and wood that were originally
used. The results are stunning.
Ferraia now has accommodations for
as many as 30 guests in lovely bedrooms
with whitewashed walls, stone tiled
floors, and beam and tile ceilings. The
large soaking tub with jets in our room
was the perfect balm after a day of riding.
Several of the bedrooms connect to a
common area that features a fireplace,
comfortable furniture, and a cabinet
filled with wonderful Tuscan wine for
guests to enjoy, which we certainly did.
A stroll around the grounds of
Ferraia will bring the discovery of a
beautiful infinity pool that overlooks the
mountains and valley. Under the huge
stone terrace are saunas and hot tubs that
will rid you of the last bit of stress
remaining from your previous life, from
here on known as BT (before Tuscany). It
is so peaceful here that you feel
transported not only to another country,
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Borgo di Ferraia
but another time; a time that Vittorio is
determined to preserve.
Upon our arrival from the airport, we
unloaded and met for a welcoming glass
of fine Tuscan red, a hint of wonderful
things to come. We sat down to a
simmering bowl of fresh vegetable soup,
with the ingredients coming from the
villa’s own garden and greenhouse. The
fresh factor is the top priority of the food
served at Ferraia. It is organic, fresh, and
invigorating from dish to dish. This
focus on fresh and wholesome food is
prevalent throughout Tuscany. Good
food makes you feel good, and I felt out
of this world by the time I had finished
the spinach stuffed veal. My life BT
(before Tuscany, remember?) was fading
fast as I slipped under the comforter with
the light of a Tuscan moon shining
through the window.
A sunny blue sky greeted us at
breakfast as we sipped cappuccinos and
ate fresh fruit, organic eggs, home baked
breads and cakes. Feeling fortified, we
headed down the road to Vittorio’s farm
La Ripa, where his herd of 30 well-kept
horses reside in British-style shedrow
stables with pastures. Seven well turnedout
horses waited patiently for us, as did
Chiara, Vittorio’s head trainer and riding
guide. Chiara was enthusiastic and
charming, and had done her homework
in matching us up with our horses. I was
given Rita, a beautiful Maremmano.
It is believed that the Maremmano is
a descendant of the Neapolitan horse.
Maremmanos are bred in Tuscany, and
are the traditional horse of the cattlemen
(butteri). Maremmanos combine a lively
temperament with strength and
toughness, making them a good, surefooted
working horse. The Maremmano
is an important part of the equestrian
tradition in Tuscany.
The other horse breeds represented at
the farm include Lipizzaners, which
Tamara rode, Anglo-Arab crosses on
which Valerie sat astride, and Sicilian
horses. Chiara and another staffer,
Francesco, had them tacked up and
ready for a quick spin in the round pen
to make sure horse and rider were a
good fit. We rode in english saddles, but
they have western and australian
saddles for those preferences as well.
Andiamo! (Let’s go)
With Vittorio leading the way, we
rode out into the beautiful surrounding
forest of chestnut trees, pines, and cork
trees, many of which were stripped of
their bark, in order to seal the bottles of
the many wines produced in the region.
Narrow roads took us through small
medieval villages perched on hills with
surrounding walls, the better to defend
against invaders. From the villages we
would ride back into the forest, down
across streams, and up onto vistas of the
valley and the hills.
Around midday, we came upon a
table in a clearing that was set up for a
forest feast. We tied up the horses and
headed over to indulge ourselves with
homemade meatloaf with carrots,
potatoes, and stuffed tomatoes. There
were jars of eggplant and salted sundried
tomatoes in olive oil in which to
season the potatoes, and bottles of wine
to wash it all down.
Powered by this epicurean epiphany,
we continued riding the rest of the
afternoon, enjoying the peace of the
countryside, and getting the adrenaline
going with a few spirited canters
through the woods. If my horse Rita is an
example of the Maremmano, it is a fine
breed of horse.
Vittorio Cambria A feast in the forest
Riding through
medieval villages
and down
Tuscan lanes

ASiena street
Siena Bello (Beautiful Siena)
After our ride we headed towards
Siena, a half-hour away, for a walking tour
with Federica Olla, our knowledgeable
and friendly guide.
We walked by the Piazza del Campo,
considered by many to be the loveliest
plaza in Italy. It is here that the Palio
delle Contrade is held twice annually on
July 2nd, and August 16th, even though
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The Piazza del Campo.
To the right the Palio delle
Contrade horse race
the festivities go on for weeks. It is
Tuscany’s most celebrated festival and
one of the most harrowing horse races in
the world. First ran in 1283, the Palio is a
break-neck, bareback horse race around
the plaza. The jockeys each represent one
of the 17 fiercely competitive contrade,
or districts of Siena. Horses and racing
positions are determined by lottery, and
the race is preceded by four hours of
pageantry with each contrade parading
their flag and colors. Thousands of
people jam into the middle of the plaza
and fill the balconies from above. Three
laps and 90 seconds of frenzy make this a
must-see spectacle
We said farewell (ciao’ ciao’) to Federica
and found a table at Trattoria da Gano.
Another splendid meal was served with a
first course of pasta followed by gnocchi
with wild boar and rabbit with artichokes.
It was the perfecto’ ending to our first day
in Tuscany. But, it wasn’t over quite yet.
On the way back to Ferraia, Vittorio
asked us if we were ready for some wild
boar hunting. What are you going to say?
“No thank you, I have had enough
excitement for one day?” I don’t think so.
With an affirmative nod, Vittoria turned
the van off the road and into the
darkness where, brandishing a spotlight
in one hand, proceeded to drive all over
the field chasing herds of wild boar. I’ve
got to hand it to Vittorio, he really gives
you an authentic taste of the Tuscan life,
and it couldn’t be more entertaining!
Riding the trail to the monastery of Lecceto
An ancient Etruscan altar
from the 4th century
Abeautiful Tuscan villa
Guidando Nelle Ombre di Etruscan
(Riding in Etruscan Shadows)
After another scrumptious breakfast,
we headed out to ride as guests, courtesy
of the Siena Tourism Board, Director,
Fiorenza Guerranti, and the Cavalieri
Senesi, a local riding school that offers
riding tours to the monastery of Lecceto
and the surrounding area. Our guide,
Laura Pela, along with her friend,
Giorgio, took us out for a wonderful ride
through woods, along vineyards and
villages, to the monastery. As we got
near our destination, religious frescos,
painted in small little chapels lined the
trail. A herd of Haflingers ran up from
their pasture to greet us as we gazed out
at the beautiful gardens and villas.
A mist hung in the air giving
everything a dreamy look. As we rode
through the woods we came upon an
ancient Etruscan altar. Still visible is the
large circle of stones, and what was left
of the altar. The Etruscans remain one of
the enigmas of history. This civilization
dominated central Italy for 800 years
until the Romans obliterated it during
the second century BC. The Etruscans
have never been given credit for their
accomplishments. The Romans learned
road building, hydraulics, and surveying
from them. They developed the
canal system, developed the temple
architecture made famous by the Greeks,
and are considered the first society to
sculpt figures in clay with human
features. The Etruscans’ demise may be
partly attributed to their ephemeral
attitude towards life on earth, which led
them to build their homes of wood and
clay. On the other hand, the altars and
tombs were built to last forever.
We returned to the riding center and
met with the president of the Cavalieri
Senesi, Marco Fedi, who treated us to a
lunch of grilled meats, bread and wine.
Food tastes even better when you’ve
worked up an appetite on a horse!
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The cheese making process
Grazie per la Serata
(Thanks for the Evening)
The culinary highlight of our day was
ahead of us as we drove to Radicondoli,
and the sensational pecorina cheeses at
Podere Paugnano, made by Giovanni
and Giovanna Porcu.
Giovanni milks 100 sheep every day
himself to make the pecorino cheese. A
large kettle of sheep milk was warming on
a burner as Giovanni constantly checked
the temprature of the milk before adding
the enzymes or rennet. While the enzymes
did their work on the milk, we went into
the house for some cheese tasting.
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Giovanna makes
fresh pasta for
the ravioli
While Giovanna was busy in the
kitchen making dinner, we sat around the
large table and sampled the pecorino,
starting with a very young cheese and
working our way up to a wheel that was
16 months old. It was fabulous at any age.
In under an hour, the rennet had
transformed the kettle of milk to a yogurt
like consistency. Giovanni, using a
forked stick, stirred up the mixture and
then plunged into the milk up to his
elbows to start working the cheese
together. After several minutes he
brought up a big clump of curdled milk.
He then placed it in a strainer and started
to press out the liquid with strong hands
and arms. Soon, the cheese had taken
shape and we sampled a bit of it right
out of the kettle. It was delicate, sweet
and earthy. I looked over and saw
Vittorio putting the milk runoff on his
hands and face! He encouraged us to do
the same and after rinsing it off, my skin
felt as soft as the homemade raviolis that
Giovanna was making. Vittorio plans to
bottle this milk and make it available at
his spa back at Ferraia, as a healthy,
organic beauty supplement. This man is
really on to something.
The Porcu family –
Giovanni (center)
and (just to the left)
Giovanna
The first course at dinner was
incredible. Soft, finger sized ravioli filled
with fresh cheese and covered in a fresh
tomato sauce. I could have sat there and
ate them until I burst, but I detected the
whiff of fresh roasted lamb, and since
that is one of my all time favorite meats,
I declined third helpings of the ravioli.
The lamb was out of this world, but
actually it was from the pasture just out
the door. It was so flavorful, no doubt
from the way it is raised, organically and
free grazed.
We sat around the table listening to
the family talk with each other and
Vittorio, who translated enough of the
conversation to make us feel included.
Expressions on a face can replace
language in communication, and with all
of the smiling back and forth, and the
nods, we got along famously.
We finished off the meal with an
aperitif, hugged Giovanna and
Giovanni, and left the warm hospitality
of this Italian family. Breaking bread
with people of other cultures, and
languages, is a way to reaffirm the bonds
we share as people. Some just have better
food than others.
An ancient ruin on the Francigena road
Olio Antico di Oliva e di Hoofprints
(Ancient Hoofprints and Olive Oil)
Overcast skies and misting rain
shrouded the green hills, and for a
moment I thought I was in Ireland, instead
of an hour’s drive northwest to the
fascinating clay hills of Siena. The
landscape had changed so dramatically
from the forests of the Merse Valley to
these gentle hills of the Val D’Orcia valley
unfolding toward Mt. Amiata, and the
tower of Ghino di Tacco’s castle.
The Tourism Board had scheduled a
ride for us through theses hills, courtesy of
Enrica and her beautiful holiday farm, II
Poggio. The horses at II Poggio were
beautifully turned out for us with a fine
selection of Arab and Italian saddle horses.
Enrica led us down the road, heading
towards the floor of this green valley with
its rugged gullies, wheat fields, vineyards,
and ruins scattered throughout the rare
beauty of this landscape.
After crossing a rain-swollen stream,
we rode up the valley a short distance and
headed up another road to the upper
reaches of the valley. As we climbed, the
expanse of the land revealed itself. The
Orcia valley was strategic in terms of
defense back in medieval times, and from
our position, one could see an army
approaching from quite some distance.
The Road Francigena appears to be
nothing more than a muddy dirt road
winding its way along this high point in
the valley, but the ancient imbedded road
stones tell another story. This was the
medieval road of the pilgrims toward
Rome and the Jubilees, a road crossed by
merchants, pilgrims, kings and armies. At
the end of 1000 AD, it was used by knights
and Crusaders coming from the “ultra
Alps” to regain the Saint Sepulchre. This
trip towards the tomb of the apostles
Pietro (Peter) and Paul united the rich man
to the poor man, the prelate to the pilgrim.
Riding past a vineyard on the 2,000 year-old Francigena road
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As we crossed that 2,000 year-old
Roman bridge, on this road that became
the most important European road of the
middle ages, I stopped my horse. I sat
there like a king might have, because
usually the most powerful and
prestigious people of those times would
travel this road by horse. Fortunate
people would cross by mule, but most
did it on foot. I saw some stone ruins not
far from the bridge. It was probably an
ancient tavern or inn that refreshed the
pilgrims along their way, offering them a
roof over their head, some straw to sleep
on, and sometimes a frugal meal.
This “Road of Faith” was an
authentic adventure, studded with traps,
dangers, and natural obstacles, but it was
regarded as a walk of purification, as
well as a walk of spiritual discovery.
Through all of the centuries past, it still
is. I felt it to my core – the snorting of my
horse, the intact stone sides of this bridge
of Roman epoch, the time past and the
time ahead, the here and now, and the
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The Val D’ Orcia valley with Mount Amiata and the castle tower on the horizon
forever. We still travel by foot and by
horse, making time stand still.
After the ride, Enrica treated us to a
sumptuous spread in the restaurant of the
main house of II Poggio. The farm
produces all of it’s own vegetables, herbs,
wines, and olive oil. We dined on
bruchettas, an incredible jet-black tempura
ball stuffed with white fish, the color of
which came from squid ink, fresh pasta,
and prime beef. The II Poggio olive oil was
so good, I was pouring it over everything.
Like Italian food, Italian olive oil is
distinguishable by region. Oils from
Tuscany are considered the benchmark.
Because olives for classic Tuscan oils are
picked before they’re completely ripe, they
have grassy, artichoke, and Sauvignon
Blanc flavors. It was impossible to leave
without purchasing a couple of bottles.
We relaxed later that evening back at
Borgo di Ferriai, around the fireplace,
eating cheese, drinking wine, and telling
stories, much the same way as the pilgrims
would have done after a day of travel.
The San Galgano Abbey
Vittorio beckons from an ancient Etruscan tomb
Una Spada Nella Pietra
(A Sword in the Stone)
We took a morning ride through the
forests of the Merse Valley and after
lunch we visited Castello di Tocchi, a
medieval village dating from 1100. The
ancient fortress walls and the magnificent
arch remain intact. The road makes a
sharp turn to the right as it enters the
keyhole entrance to this village. This
prevented invaders from being able to
line up a long battering ram to penetrate
the doors. Just minutes from Ferraia,
Vittorio has apartments in Castello that
can be rented by guests for the week. The
most intriguing aspect of Castello is the
Galgano’s sword in the stone
The stunning columns and arches of San Galgano Abbey
Etruscan tomb, dating back to the 4th
century BC, which lies below the center of
the village. This huge underground room,
carved into the stone, held the dead and
all of their belongings.
That evening, we participated in the
popular and widely known La Cucina del
Castello Culinary School. The cooking
classes are now held in the spacious
kitchen of Villa Ferraia instead of the
original location at Castello di Tocchi.
Stefano, the chef and caretaker of the
organic garden invited us down the path
to gather the fresh ingredients for the
evening’s meal. We filled a basket with
kale (or black cabbage as they call it),
parsley, leeks, and some flowers. We
would be preparing a leek cake, fresh pasta
with pesto, and a chestnut cake for desert.
Stephano was a great teacher and he put
up with our antics and laughter. With a
few noodles tossed here and stuck there,
it was a real hands-on meal experience.
Our last day at Ferraia began with a
spirited ride through the gorgeous
countryside that included a visit to the rural
village of Monticiano, and then on to the
jaw-dropping San Galgano Abbey and the
Chapel on Mount Siepi, where we
picnicked in the shadows of the roofless
abbey. After dining on black olive pizza and
garbanzo bean soup, we explored the 12th
century San Galgano, which was one of the
most important Italian monasteries. It is a
magnificent example of gothic Cistercian
architecture, with stone and marble arches
and columns reaching to the sky.
Across from San Galgano Abbey is
the Church of Mountesiepi, where the
knight Galgano Guidotti lived and died
as a hermit, and then became a saint.
Inside the chapel under glass is the rock
that holds the sword, buried up to it’s
hilt to form a cross, that Galgano
plunged into the stone to renounce his
earthly bonds.
Winding our way off Mount Siepi,
through the long columns of cypress trees,
there was time for one last adventure, one
last taste of the Tuscan Way.
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Alzi un Vetro in Toscana
(Raise a Glass to Tuscany)
The history of Italian wine is the
history of Italy. The ancient Greeks called
the peninsula oenotria-the land of
trained vines. During the Renaissance,
Tuscan wines achieved the preeminence
they still enjoy today, in terms of quality,
ageability and price. Although Tuscany
is a major center of experimentation in
Italian winemaking, it remains a
headquarters for Italian classic reds, all
based on the Sangiovese grape. Their
other common theme is that all are oak
aged by law, although the minimum
oak-aging time varies. The Brunello is
the longest aged of all the Tuscan reds.
Biondi-Santi, one of the most famous
wineries and wine families, is credited
with inventing this wine because they
were the first to isolate the Brunello, an
especially high quality version of the
Sangiovese grape. The small growing
area surrounds the hilltop town of
Montalcino, southwest of Siena.
Montalcino, which dates back to the
Etruscan period, was never conquered,
despite many invasions. Sitting high on
the Francigena road, it took on the
structure of a military city with a huge
fortress spouting numerous towers and
large fortified walls. The town is famous
worldwide for it’s Brunello wines, one of
the few Italian reds to be granted the
DOCG certification.
A wine tasting was arranged for us at
the wine shop in the fortress, Enoteca “La
Fortezza,” where we sat at a long table
with three labeled glasses set in front of
each of us. We sampled the Rosso di
Montalcino, the Brunello di Montalcino,
and the Brunello di Montalcino Riserva.
We tried each wine on its own, and with
bread and cheese. Rosso di Montalcino is
baby Brunello, a good wine to drink while
you are waiting for the real thing to age in
the cellar. The Riserva is a big wine - your
nose can feel the alcohol vapors - and the
spiciness is quite pronounced. The
Brunello di Montalcino was my favorite.
This is serious vino with richer and riper
fruit smell, more towards plum or even
dried fruits like prunes. The body and
tannin are dominant, and if one could wait,
this wine would only get better with age.
I stood at the highest point of the
fortress and looked out at the setting sun
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as it suffused Montalcino and the Orcia
valley in a Tuscan bronze. This was the
last sunset I would see in Tuscany for
some time, and I lingered, soaking up the
air and the light, still tasting the essence of
Brunello, and feeling like a very old soul.
Our last night at Borgo di Ferraia
would be a culinary finale, starring steak
Florentine cooked over wood coals with
a little olive oil, salt, and pepper. The
elegance of this dish was in the
simplicity - it is the key to preparing food
that is this fresh - and was the
magnificent final aria to a weeklong
symphony of cuisine and culture.
Vittorio Cambria, through his passion
and vision, has preserved a cultural
experience that will leave an imprint on
those who take the journey into a way of
life that embraces the simple pleasures of
living. Riding horses on the ancient
Francigena road is an experience that
Valerie and I will never forget. And when
someone asks me what the people are
like, I will tell them about the wonderful
evening we spent in the home of
Giovanni and Giovanna, eating his
handmade pecorino cheese and dining
on her roasted lamb at the family table.
Our week in Tuscany was an
equestrian’s dream. You can ride the
countryside, through ancient villages and
alongside ancient ruins, and can sample
food and wine that has made this region
legendary. And if you’re lucky, your horse
will take you to places you never
imagined. Who knows, you may ride
back over two thousand years. It’s the
Tuscan Way.
The fortress at Montalcino
Contacts:
Destination Everything Italian!
www.destinationeverythingitalian.com
Tamara Sorley – Program Director –
303-885-9995
email: tsorley@peoplepc.com
Tourist information: www.terresiena.it
email: infoaptsiena@terresiena.it
II Poggio – www.ilpoggio.net
the tuscan way
The beautiful town of Montalcino in the heart of Brunello wine country
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