About OVERLOCKING - Sewing With Confidence

This booklet 

Everything you need to know 

about 

OVERLOCKING 

has been designed to enable you to keep a 

record of the different types of stitching (basic, 

special or decorative) that you will achieve if you 

follow the lessons in our DVD ‘Everything you 

need to know about overlocking’. 

The physical record of each stitch type will be a 

reminder when you come to use your overlocker 

for future projects. The data you record here will 

specifically relate to your own machine. 

Our students usually purchase a folder with clear 

plastic pockets to place their page and samples 

into. 

LESSON BOOKLET 

Overlockers, also known as Sergers, can simplify and speed up so many of the common tasks used in 

sewing. Working at more than twice the speed of a domestice sewing machine, an overlocker is a pleasure 

to use and makes the task of sewing much quicker, neatening edges as you sew. 

Getting started 

Sample Fabrics 

To follow the basic lessons we suggest you 

prepare samples of calico cut to fit the booklet 

pages. Most samples will require two layers. 

You will also need knitted fabric or lycra, super 

stretchy fabric, fine fabrics and firm fabric - 

enough of each of these to create samples. 

Threads 

© 2011 Sewing With Confidence Ltd. 

For the purposes of practicing, we suggest you 

use the colour threads that your machine is colour 

coded for, so that you can easily see on your 

samples how each needle or looper thread is 

working. It will be easier to make tension or other 

adjustments accordingly. 

We wish you all the best as you learn from these 

lessons. We hope you will become much more 

confident with the use of your machine. 

From the team at Sewing With Confidence.

BASIC 

LESSON 

1 

Your Overlocker should have 

► A threading 

diagram on the 

machine indicating 

the sequence and 

colour coding for 

each thread. 

► Each thread’s path 

should be colour 

coded on the 

machine, from the 

thread stand to the 

needle or looper. 

► A self-threading lower looper. 

► Clip-off presser feet that enable you to reach the 

needles and loopers easily. 

► Tension which releases as soon as the presser foot 

is lifted. 

Start at the beginning 

► Choose a good quality thread. 

Threading the Overlocker 

► For regular sewing with normal tension, use the 

same type of thread for the loopers and the needles. 

► Try not to use one large cone for one looper and a 

small 1000 m reel for the other looper as this could 

result in uneven tension. 

► Do not use woolly thread referred to as ‘flock’ or 

‘floss’ in the needles, as this will keep on breaking, 

jamming, perhaps even breaking the needles. 

► Thread one reel at a time, starting at the thread 

stand and following the indicated path up to the 

needle or looper. 

► Always start with the upper looper then the lower 

looper. 

Note: Follow the threading sequence for your specific 

model. 

► Bring all threads under the presser foot to the back 

and drop the presser foot. 

► If you have a problem it is always better to remove 

the threads and start right from the beginning. 

Threading is the first step in using an overlocker, but is the most important 

step, as faulty threading will result in no stitches or faulty stitches forming. 

Threading an overlocker might look challenging but a good quality overlocker, 

will assist you by making this important step as easy and time saving as possible. 


Always start with the upper looper, 

following the indicated path. 

Pulling in a new thread. 

You can knot and pull a new thread through by following 

these basic guidelines. 

1. Cut the threads between the thread stand and 

the thread spool. 

2. Knot the new threads in position. 

3. Remove the needle threads as the needles have 

to be threaded last. 

4. Put the tension levers to the lowest number and 

lift the pressure foot to disengage the tension. 

5. Pull one thread at a time to let it run through the 

thread guides. 

6. Check that each thread is threaded correctly. 

7. Do a test after each thread change.

BASIC 

LESSON 

1 

Threading your overlocker 

After you have completed your threading using the 4 different colour 

threads, and the test is to your satisfaction note the settings below. 

Left Needle - Right Needle - 

Upper Looper - Lower Looper - 

Cutting Width - Stitch Length - 

© 2011 Sewing With Confidence Ltd.

BASIC 

LESSON 

2 

4 thread overlock stitch 

► Two needles and two loopers are used. The 4-thread overlock will allow for fabric elasticity, 

which makes it an ideal stitch to use on knitted fabric, e.g., track-suiting and T-shirts 

► Because the finished stitch width = 6mm, this stitch can be used to sew and overlock a 

seam in one operation. For example, in making tracksuits it will be strong enough. 

► Preferably use calico for this test. 

Cutting width test: Cut fabric 15cm long & 6cm wide. Divide in 3 equal segments = 3 cutting widths 

Stitch length test: Cut fabric 16cm long & 6cm wide. Divide into 4 equal segments = 4 stitch lengths 

4 thread 

SL = 2.5 CW = 2 

The 4 THREAD OVERLOCK STITCH can be used for 

► Sewing up highly stretchable fabrics, e.g. gym and swimwear where seams will be under high strain. 

► Special techniques, e.g. sewing on elastic, gathering with the overlocker, making piping and securing it 

in position. 

► Decorative stitching, e.g. when doing tucks. 

Varied Stitch Width 

CW = 1, 2 & 3 


Varied Stitch Length 

SL = 1, 2, 3 & 4

BASIC 

LESSON 

3 

Left Needle- 

Right Needle- 

Upper Looper 

Lower Looper 

Cutting Width- 

Stitch Length- 


The 3 THREAD OVERLOCK STITCH is formed by one needle thread, which anchors 2 

looper threads. 

The two ‘looper’ threads meet on the edge of the fabric and the needle thread acts as a 

straight stitch. 

Record your machine settings below in each column for each sample you create. 

WIDE NARROW VERY NARROW 

Left Needle- 

Right Needle- 

Upper Looper 

Lower Looper 


Stitch Length- 

The 3 THREAD OVERLOCK STITCH can be used 

► To finish off frayed edges on woven fabrics or to form an open or closed single seam. 

► To sew and finish off a seam in one operation when sewing lightweight knitted fabric, such as T-shirting. 

► To sew decorative finishing, e.g. flat seams, decorative edges, tucks and making cords. 

► To sew roll hemming and its variations such as pintucks and lace insertions. 


Left Needle- 

Right Needle- 

Upper Looper 

Lower Looper 


Stitch Length-

BASIC 

LESSON 

4 


using the ‘UPPER LOOPER CONVERTER’ 

► Only one needle and one looper are used. The needle thread anchors the lower looper 

thread, which rolls or loops over to the top of the fabric. 

2 thread seam finishing 2 thread Roll Hem 2 thread Flatlocking 

The 2 THREAD OVERLOCK STITCH can be used for: 


►► For►a►2-thread►overlock►stitch,►use►the► 

upper►looper►converter.► 

►► The►stitch►looks►like►a►3-thread►stitch► 

from►the►top,►but►the►needle►thread► 

forms,►an►even►‘V’►on►the►bottom.► 

►► Test►for►the►correct►stitch►setting►by► 

pulling►the►fabric►for►the►stitch►to►lie►flat. 

► Finishing off raw edges on woven fabrics especially on very lightweight fabrics where a soft seam 

finish is required and where a 3- thread overlock stitch will be too thick and bulky. 

► Decorative stitching such as flatlock seams, as it will pull open and lay flat 

► Roll hemming and its variations

BASIC 

LESSON 

5 

4 thread overlock stitching 

using DIFFERENTIAL FEED 

All overlockers today offer this feature. It means that the feed mechanism is divided into two 

parts, which can operate as one or as separate parts 

It can be set as follows: 

► Normal setting (N) for regular sewing. The two parts work together and the fabric is fed through evenly. 

► Special setting (1.5 to 2) for knitted fabric. The front section of the feeding mechanism moves up to twice the 

distance of the back section, resulting in the fabric being “pushed” together and thus preventing it from stretching 

during sewing. 

► Special setting (0.7) for thin and difficult to handle fabrics. The back section of the feeding mechanism moves 

over a longer distance than the front section, resulting in the fabric being pulled through to the back, thus 

preventing the fabric from puckering. 

The differential feed feature will also enable you to gather with the overlocker and create a Super Stretch Stitch 

which is a very elastic stitch formed using two needles and the lower looper. This stitch requires the Upper Looper 

Converter and Woolly Nylon Thread (Also called ‘floss’ or ‘flock’.) 

Knitted fabric & lycra Thin Fabrics Gathering 

Super Stretch Stitch 


BASIC 

LESSON 

6 

Set the overlocker as follows 

Roll hemming 

The new overlockers will sew roll hemming with great ease. No presser feet or stitching plates 

need to be changed. 

This stitch is ideally used as an edge finish on frills, sleeves and hems in fine fabrics. 

► Use a narrow three thread overlock or a 

two-thread overlock stitch. 

► Set the cutting width to the lowest setting. 

► Set the stitch length to 1mm depending on 

the thread and the required effect. 

► Set the tension dials as per your instruction 

manual. 


► 

Special hints when sewing rolled hems 

► When sewing a very fine and loosely woven fabric, use a 

slightly wider cutting width to ensure a strong, neat edge 

finish. Also start by cutting 4 cm off the seam allowance so 

that the needle will enter the fabric with the first stitch, 

► Use a wide cutting width and tighter lower looper tension 

when sewing stiff fabrics. 

► Avoid ‘dog ears’ on corners: Start sewing, cutting 5 mm 

deeper than the required amount and move towards the 

cutting line. Sew up to 3 cm from the corner; sew at an 

angle towards the corner to cut off 5 mm more than normal. 

On firm fabric On lightweight fabric On fine fabric

LESSON 

1 

Special Techniques 

1. Sew a 3-4 cm thread chain. 

2. Sew 2 stitches onto the fabric. 

3. Lower needle into the fabric. 

4. Raise the presser foot. 

5. Straighten out the thread chain 

and remove stitching from the 

stitch finger. Lay the threads 

from the left back to the front 

and lay it under the presser 

foot. 

6. Lower the presser foot. 

7. Sew over the thread chain for 

2 cm and cut off the excess 

chain with the knife 

1. Sew to the end of the seam. 

2. Raise the needle and presser 

foot. 

3. Remove the stitching gently 

from the stitch finger. 

4. Turn the fabric over towards 

you and lay it under the 

presser foot so that the needle 

enters the fabric with the first 

stitch. 

5. Lower the presser foot. 

6. Sew carefully over the 

previous stitching without 

cutting for about 2 cm. 

7. Raise the tip of the foot and 

turn the work away from you. 

8. Stitch off the edge. 

Finishing Off Chains 

Because of the way an overlocker is designed, special techniques are required to use it 

effectively, e.g. overlockers do not sew in reverse, so to finish off beginnings and endings of 

seams the following techniques could be used. 

SEAM BEGINNING 

SEAM ENDING 


LESSON 

2 


1. Cut into the corners where 

you will be using this 

technique, cutting off the 

extra fabric you would 

normally cut off with the 

blades - about 3-4 cm. 

2. Sew up to the corner and 

one stitch over the edge of 

the fabric. 


foot. 

4. Pull the work slightly to the 

back to clear the stitch finger. 

5. Turn the fabric and lay it 

under the presser foot so that 

the cut edge of the fabric is 

against the knife. 

6. Lower the presser foot and 

needle. 

7. If necessary, pull all the 

threads tight above the first 

machine guide. Continue 

sewing. 

Sewing Outside Corners 


LESSON 

3 


1. Prepare your fabric with a 

square shape cut out (as for 

a square neckline). 

Cut out square 

2. Snip into the corner up to 

the stitching line. (You may 

find it easier to trim the seam 

allowance to between 3 -6 

mm depending on your Stitch 

Width). 

Cut 

3. Sew into the corner. 

4. Straighten out the fabric. 

5. Continue sewing 

Sewing Inside Corners 


LESSON 

4 


1. As the blade of an overlocker 

is positioned in front of the 

needle, special sewing 

techniques are required. 

2. Cut away a 4cm section out 

of the seam allowance. 


foot. 

4. Position the fabric under the 

presser foot with the cutaway 

edge against the knife. 

5. Lower the presser foot 

and sew until the seam is 

complete. 

6. Sew a few stitches over the 

previous stitches without 

cutting them. 

7. Raise the tip of the presser 

foot. 

8. Turn the work away and sew 

off the edge. 

Sewing a Continuous Edge 


Decorative 

LESSONS 

Decorative Stitching 

An overlocker can be used to its fullest 

potential by using it for decorative effects. 

It has become so easy to sew decorative 

stitching. 

► With easy to set tensions and easy selections 

of stitches e.g. roll hemming without the need to 

change presser feet or stitch plates. 

► The possibility to convert a 3-thread stitch to a 

2-thread overlock stitch in seconds. 

► And the availability of specialized presser feet 

and accessories, e.g. gathering, piping, cord 

work, etc. 

► See the section on Overlocker Accessories 

Some Tips for using Decorative Threads: 

► Decorative threads specially made for 

overlockers are becoming widely available. You 

may need to change the tensions when using 

special threads on an overlocker: 

► When using slippery decorative thread use the 

spool nets for even unwinding. 

► This is important only use decorative threads in 

the loopers. 

► Threads must move easily and without 

resistance through the thread guides and looper 

eye and this should be taken into account when 

purchasing the thread. 

► The thicker the thread, the looser the tensions. 

To set the tension, set one tension at a time. 

► An important TIP sew slowly when using 

decorative threads and pull the thread chain 

gently backwards when starting to sew. 

► ALWAYS test-sew when using decorative 

threads. 

If you are not sure if you have enough 

thread, 

you can calculate the amount of decorative thread 

needed for your project as follows: Looper threads will 

require 7 mt of thread for every 1 mt length of stitching. 

So measure the length you need to sew and multiply it 

by 7. 


LESSON 

1 

Decorative 

1. Use a wide 3-thread overlock 

stitch with different thread 

colours in the loopers. 

2. Overlock parallel tucks. 

3. Always start the tucks at the 

same end and position the 

fabric so that when you sew 

the pucks down you will get 

the effect you are wanting. 

4. Now sew the tucks down 

with a sewing machine in 

alternative directions (See the 

lesson) 

1. Use a 3 thread narrow 

overlock stitch(See lesson 

3 of basic lessons). Use 

decorative threads in the 

loopers. 

2. Set the stitch length very short 

- to a satin stitch length. 

3. The looper threads must meet 

at the edge of the fabric. (This 

is not a ROLL hemming stitch). 

Decorative Tucks 

Decorative tucks can be very effective, Turn and lock the upper blade away. 

Fold the fabric and guide the fold on the guide mark on the presser foot. 

TUCK VARIATIONS 

DECORATIVE EDGES 


LESSON 

2 

Decorative 

Try these variations 

Use a decorative thread in the 

upper looper. 

1. Set the machine for a short 

stitch length and sew a “satin 

stitch” rolled edge. 

2. NOW DO A TEST 

3. You may need to adjust the 

tension to suit the thread 

thickness. 

Pin Tucks 

This is very effective on shirts, skirts 

& yokes. 

Turn the blade away and sew the 

rolled edge on folded fabric to form 

a pin-tuck. 

Lace Insertions 

Place the wrong sides together 

when you sew the lace in position 

using a roll hem. 

Decorative Roll Hemming 

Apart from roll hemming being a practical stitch; it can be used very effectively as decorative 

stitching. 

(See Lesson 6 under the basic stitches section on how to set your machine for roll hemming). 

Remember decorative thread is only used on the upper looper. When using decorative 

thread your settings may need ro be adjusted. 


LESSON 

3 

Decorative 

Settings for Flatlocking 

1. Use a 3 or 2 thread overlock 

stitch. Set the needle tension at 

the lowest setting, and the lower 

looper tighter. 

2. For a 2-thread overlock stitch, 

use the upper looper converter. 

(See lesson 4 in basic lessons.) 

3. The stitch looks like a 3-thread 

stitch from the top, but the needle 

thread forms, an even ‘V’ on 

the bottom. These threads must 

meet at the edge of the fabric 

4. Test for the correct stitch setting 

by pulling the fabric for the stitch 

to lie flat. 

Flatlock Seams 

Flat seams are formed by sewing a 2 or 3 thread overlock stitch to join two pieces of fabric 

or on the fold of the fabric. 

The fabric is then pulled open so that the stitch lies flat.

About OVERLOCKING - Sewing With Confidence

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