About OVERLOCKING - Sewing With Confidence
About OVERLOCKING - Sewing With Confidence
About OVERLOCKING - Sewing With Confidence
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This booklet<br />
Everything you need to know<br />
about<br />
<strong>OVERLOCKING</strong><br />
has been designed to enable you to keep a<br />
record of the different types of stitching (basic,<br />
special or decorative) that you will achieve if you<br />
follow the lessons in our DVD ‘Everything you<br />
need to know about overlocking’.<br />
The physical record of each stitch type will be a<br />
reminder when you come to use your overlocker<br />
for future projects. The data you record here will<br />
specifically relate to your own machine.<br />
Our students usually purchase a folder with clear<br />
plastic pockets to place their page and samples<br />
into.<br />
LESSON BOOKLET<br />
Overlockers, also known as Sergers, can simplify and speed up so many of the common tasks used in<br />
sewing. Working at more than twice the speed of a domestice sewing machine, an overlocker is a pleasure<br />
to use and makes the task of sewing much quicker, neatening edges as you sew.<br />
Getting started<br />
Sample Fabrics<br />
To follow the basic lessons we suggest you<br />
prepare samples of calico cut to fit the booklet<br />
pages. Most samples will require two layers.<br />
You will also need knitted fabric or lycra, super<br />
stretchy fabric, fine fabrics and firm fabric -<br />
enough of each of these to create samples.<br />
Threads<br />
© 2011 <strong>Sewing</strong> <strong>With</strong> <strong>Confidence</strong> Ltd.<br />
For the purposes of practicing, we suggest you<br />
use the colour threads that your machine is colour<br />
coded for, so that you can easily see on your<br />
samples how each needle or looper thread is<br />
working. It will be easier to make tension or other<br />
adjustments accordingly.<br />
We wish you all the best as you learn from these<br />
lessons. We hope you will become much more<br />
confident with the use of your machine.<br />
From the team at <strong>Sewing</strong> <strong>With</strong> <strong>Confidence</strong>.
BASIC<br />
LESSON<br />
1<br />
Your Overlocker should have<br />
► A threading<br />
diagram on the<br />
machine indicating<br />
the sequence and<br />
colour coding for<br />
each thread.<br />
► Each thread’s path<br />
should be colour<br />
coded on the<br />
machine, from the<br />
thread stand to the<br />
needle or looper.<br />
► A self-threading lower looper.<br />
► Clip-off presser feet that enable you to reach the<br />
needles and loopers easily.<br />
► Tension which releases as soon as the presser foot<br />
is lifted.<br />
Start at the beginning<br />
► Choose a good quality thread.<br />
Threading the Overlocker<br />
► For regular sewing with normal tension, use the<br />
same type of thread for the loopers and the needles.<br />
► Try not to use one large cone for one looper and a<br />
small 1000 m reel for the other looper as this could<br />
result in uneven tension.<br />
► Do not use woolly thread referred to as ‘flock’ or<br />
‘floss’ in the needles, as this will keep on breaking,<br />
jamming, perhaps even breaking the needles.<br />
► Thread one reel at a time, starting at the thread<br />
stand and following the indicated path up to the<br />
needle or looper.<br />
► Always start with the upper looper then the lower<br />
looper.<br />
Note: Follow the threading sequence for your specific<br />
model.<br />
► Bring all threads under the presser foot to the back<br />
and drop the presser foot.<br />
► If you have a problem it is always better to remove<br />
the threads and start right from the beginning.<br />
Threading is the first step in using an overlocker, but is the most important<br />
step, as faulty threading will result in no stitches or faulty stitches forming.<br />
Threading an overlocker might look challenging but a good quality overlocker,<br />
will assist you by making this important step as easy and time saving as possible.<br />
© 2011 <strong>Sewing</strong> <strong>With</strong> <strong>Confidence</strong> Ltd.<br />
Always start with the upper looper,<br />
following the indicated path.<br />
Pulling in a new thread.<br />
You can knot and pull a new thread through by following<br />
these basic guidelines.<br />
1. Cut the threads between the thread stand and<br />
the thread spool.<br />
2. Knot the new threads in position.<br />
3. Remove the needle threads as the needles have<br />
to be threaded last.<br />
4. Put the tension levers to the lowest number and<br />
lift the pressure foot to disengage the tension.<br />
5. Pull one thread at a time to let it run through the<br />
thread guides.<br />
6. Check that each thread is threaded correctly.<br />
7. Do a test after each thread change.
BASIC<br />
LESSON<br />
1<br />
Threading your overlocker<br />
After you have completed your threading using the 4 different colour<br />
threads, and the test is to your satisfaction note the settings below.<br />
Left Needle - Right Needle -<br />
Upper Looper - Lower Looper -<br />
Cutting Width - Stitch Length -<br />
© 2011 <strong>Sewing</strong> <strong>With</strong> <strong>Confidence</strong> Ltd.
BASIC<br />
LESSON<br />
2<br />
4 thread overlock stitch<br />
► Two needles and two loopers are used. The 4-thread overlock will allow for fabric elasticity,<br />
which makes it an ideal stitch to use on knitted fabric, e.g., track-suiting and T-shirts<br />
► Because the finished stitch width = 6mm, this stitch can be used to sew and overlock a<br />
seam in one operation. For example, in making tracksuits it will be strong enough.<br />
► Preferably use calico for this test.<br />
Cutting width test: Cut fabric 15cm long & 6cm wide. Divide in 3 equal segments = 3 cutting widths<br />
Stitch length test: Cut fabric 16cm long & 6cm wide. Divide into 4 equal segments = 4 stitch lengths<br />
4 thread<br />
SL = 2.5 CW = 2<br />
The 4 THREAD OVERLOCK STITCH can be used for<br />
► <strong>Sewing</strong> up highly stretchable fabrics, e.g. gym and swimwear where seams will be under high strain.<br />
► Special techniques, e.g. sewing on elastic, gathering with the overlocker, making piping and securing it<br />
in position.<br />
► Decorative stitching, e.g. when doing tucks.<br />
Varied Stitch Width<br />
CW = 1, 2 & 3<br />
© 2011 <strong>Sewing</strong> <strong>With</strong> <strong>Confidence</strong> Ltd.<br />
Varied Stitch Length<br />
SL = 1, 2, 3 & 4
BASIC<br />
LESSON<br />
3<br />
Left Needle-<br />
Right Needle-<br />
Upper Looper<br />
Lower Looper<br />
Cutting Width-<br />
Stitch Length-<br />
3 thread overlock stitch<br />
The 3 THREAD OVERLOCK STITCH is formed by one needle thread, which anchors 2<br />
looper threads.<br />
The two ‘looper’ threads meet on the edge of the fabric and the needle thread acts as a<br />
straight stitch.<br />
Record your machine settings below in each column for each sample you create.<br />
WIDE NARROW VERY NARROW<br />
Left Needle-<br />
Right Needle-<br />
Upper Looper<br />
Lower Looper<br />
Cutting Width-<br />
Stitch Length-<br />
The 3 THREAD OVERLOCK STITCH can be used<br />
► To finish off frayed edges on woven fabrics or to form an open or closed single seam.<br />
► To sew and finish off a seam in one operation when sewing lightweight knitted fabric, such as T-shirting.<br />
► To sew decorative finishing, e.g. flat seams, decorative edges, tucks and making cords.<br />
► To sew roll hemming and its variations such as pintucks and lace insertions.<br />
© 2011 <strong>Sewing</strong> <strong>With</strong> <strong>Confidence</strong> Ltd.<br />
Left Needle-<br />
Right Needle-<br />
Upper Looper<br />
Lower Looper<br />
Cutting Width-<br />
Stitch Length-
BASIC<br />
LESSON<br />
4<br />
2 thread overlock stitch<br />
using the ‘UPPER LOOPER CONVERTER’<br />
► Only one needle and one looper are used. The needle thread anchors the lower looper<br />
thread, which rolls or loops over to the top of the fabric.<br />
2 thread seam finishing 2 thread Roll Hem 2 thread Flatlocking<br />
The 2 THREAD OVERLOCK STITCH can be used for:<br />
© 2011 <strong>Sewing</strong> <strong>With</strong> <strong>Confidence</strong> Ltd.<br />
►► For►a►2-thread►overlock►stitch,►use►the►<br />
upper►looper►converter.►<br />
►► The►stitch►looks►like►a►3-thread►stitch►<br />
from►the►top,►but►the►needle►thread►<br />
forms,►an►even►‘V’►on►the►bottom.►<br />
►► Test►for►the►correct►stitch►setting►by►<br />
pulling►the►fabric►for►the►stitch►to►lie►flat.<br />
► Finishing off raw edges on woven fabrics especially on very lightweight fabrics where a soft seam<br />
finish is required and where a 3- thread overlock stitch will be too thick and bulky.<br />
► Decorative stitching such as flatlock seams, as it will pull open and lay flat<br />
► Roll hemming and its variations
BASIC<br />
LESSON<br />
5<br />
4 thread overlock stitching<br />
using DIFFERENTIAL FEED<br />
All overlockers today offer this feature. It means that the feed mechanism is divided into two<br />
parts, which can operate as one or as separate parts<br />
It can be set as follows:<br />
► Normal setting (N) for regular sewing. The two parts work together and the fabric is fed through evenly.<br />
► Special setting (1.5 to 2) for knitted fabric. The front section of the feeding mechanism moves up to twice the<br />
distance of the back section, resulting in the fabric being “pushed” together and thus preventing it from stretching<br />
during sewing.<br />
► Special setting (0.7) for thin and difficult to handle fabrics. The back section of the feeding mechanism moves<br />
over a longer distance than the front section, resulting in the fabric being pulled through to the back, thus<br />
preventing the fabric from puckering.<br />
The differential feed feature will also enable you to gather with the overlocker and create a Super Stretch Stitch<br />
which is a very elastic stitch formed using two needles and the lower looper. This stitch requires the Upper Looper<br />
Converter and Woolly Nylon Thread (Also called ‘floss’ or ‘flock’.)<br />
Knitted fabric & lycra Thin Fabrics Gathering<br />
Super Stretch Stitch<br />
© 2011 <strong>Sewing</strong> <strong>With</strong> <strong>Confidence</strong> Ltd.
BASIC<br />
LESSON<br />
6<br />
Set the overlocker as follows<br />
Roll hemming<br />
The new overlockers will sew roll hemming with great ease. No presser feet or stitching plates<br />
need to be changed.<br />
This stitch is ideally used as an edge finish on frills, sleeves and hems in fine fabrics.<br />
► Use a narrow three thread overlock or a<br />
two-thread overlock stitch.<br />
► Set the cutting width to the lowest setting.<br />
► Set the stitch length to 1mm depending on<br />
the thread and the required effect.<br />
► Set the tension dials as per your instruction<br />
manual.<br />
© 2011 <strong>Sewing</strong> <strong>With</strong> <strong>Confidence</strong> Ltd.<br />
►<br />
Special hints when sewing rolled hems<br />
► When sewing a very fine and loosely woven fabric, use a<br />
slightly wider cutting width to ensure a strong, neat edge<br />
finish. Also start by cutting 4 cm off the seam allowance so<br />
that the needle will enter the fabric with the first stitch,<br />
► Use a wide cutting width and tighter lower looper tension<br />
when sewing stiff fabrics.<br />
► Avoid ‘dog ears’ on corners: Start sewing, cutting 5 mm<br />
deeper than the required amount and move towards the<br />
cutting line. Sew up to 3 cm from the corner; sew at an<br />
angle towards the corner to cut off 5 mm more than normal.<br />
On firm fabric On lightweight fabric On fine fabric
LESSON<br />
1<br />
Special Techniques<br />
1. Sew a 3-4 cm thread chain.<br />
2. Sew 2 stitches onto the fabric.<br />
3. Lower needle into the fabric.<br />
4. Raise the presser foot.<br />
5. Straighten out the thread chain<br />
and remove stitching from the<br />
stitch finger. Lay the threads<br />
from the left back to the front<br />
and lay it under the presser<br />
foot.<br />
6. Lower the presser foot.<br />
7. Sew over the thread chain for<br />
2 cm and cut off the excess<br />
chain with the knife<br />
1. Sew to the end of the seam.<br />
2. Raise the needle and presser<br />
foot.<br />
3. Remove the stitching gently<br />
from the stitch finger.<br />
4. Turn the fabric over towards<br />
you and lay it under the<br />
presser foot so that the needle<br />
enters the fabric with the first<br />
stitch.<br />
5. Lower the presser foot.<br />
6. Sew carefully over the<br />
previous stitching without<br />
cutting for about 2 cm.<br />
7. Raise the tip of the foot and<br />
turn the work away from you.<br />
8. Stitch off the edge.<br />
Finishing Off Chains<br />
Because of the way an overlocker is designed, special techniques are required to use it<br />
effectively, e.g. overlockers do not sew in reverse, so to finish off beginnings and endings of<br />
seams the following techniques could be used.<br />
SEAM BEGINNING<br />
SEAM ENDING<br />
© 2011 <strong>Sewing</strong> <strong>With</strong> <strong>Confidence</strong> Ltd.
LESSON<br />
2<br />
Special Techniques<br />
1. Cut into the corners where<br />
you will be using this<br />
technique, cutting off the<br />
extra fabric you would<br />
normally cut off with the<br />
blades - about 3-4 cm.<br />
2. Sew up to the corner and<br />
one stitch over the edge of<br />
the fabric.<br />
3. Raise the needle and presser<br />
foot.<br />
4. Pull the work slightly to the<br />
back to clear the stitch finger.<br />
5. Turn the fabric and lay it<br />
under the presser foot so that<br />
the cut edge of the fabric is<br />
against the knife.<br />
6. Lower the presser foot and<br />
needle.<br />
7. If necessary, pull all the<br />
threads tight above the first<br />
machine guide. Continue<br />
sewing.<br />
<strong>Sewing</strong> Outside Corners<br />
© 2011 <strong>Sewing</strong> <strong>With</strong> <strong>Confidence</strong> Ltd.
LESSON<br />
3<br />
Special Techniques<br />
1. Prepare your fabric with a<br />
square shape cut out (as for<br />
a square neckline).<br />
Cut out square<br />
2. Snip into the corner up to<br />
the stitching line. (You may<br />
find it easier to trim the seam<br />
allowance to between 3 -6<br />
mm depending on your Stitch<br />
Width).<br />
Cut<br />
3. Sew into the corner.<br />
4. Straighten out the fabric.<br />
5. Continue sewing<br />
<strong>Sewing</strong> Inside Corners<br />
© 2011 <strong>Sewing</strong> <strong>With</strong> <strong>Confidence</strong> Ltd.
LESSON<br />
4<br />
Special Techniques<br />
1. As the blade of an overlocker<br />
is positioned in front of the<br />
needle, special sewing<br />
techniques are required.<br />
2. Cut away a 4cm section out<br />
of the seam allowance.<br />
3. Raise the needle and presser<br />
foot.<br />
4. Position the fabric under the<br />
presser foot with the cutaway<br />
edge against the knife.<br />
5. Lower the presser foot<br />
and sew until the seam is<br />
complete.<br />
6. Sew a few stitches over the<br />
previous stitches without<br />
cutting them.<br />
7. Raise the tip of the presser<br />
foot.<br />
8. Turn the work away and sew<br />
off the edge.<br />
<strong>Sewing</strong> a Continuous Edge<br />
© 2011 <strong>Sewing</strong> <strong>With</strong> <strong>Confidence</strong> Ltd.
Decorative<br />
LESSONS<br />
Decorative Stitching<br />
An overlocker can be used to its fullest<br />
potential by using it for decorative effects.<br />
It has become so easy to sew decorative<br />
stitching.<br />
► <strong>With</strong> easy to set tensions and easy selections<br />
of stitches e.g. roll hemming without the need to<br />
change presser feet or stitch plates.<br />
► The possibility to convert a 3-thread stitch to a<br />
2-thread overlock stitch in seconds.<br />
► And the availability of specialized presser feet<br />
and accessories, e.g. gathering, piping, cord<br />
work, etc.<br />
► See the section on Overlocker Accessories<br />
Some Tips for using Decorative Threads:<br />
► Decorative threads specially made for<br />
overlockers are becoming widely available. You<br />
may need to change the tensions when using<br />
special threads on an overlocker:<br />
► When using slippery decorative thread use the<br />
spool nets for even unwinding.<br />
► This is important only use decorative threads in<br />
the loopers.<br />
► Threads must move easily and without<br />
resistance through the thread guides and looper<br />
eye and this should be taken into account when<br />
purchasing the thread.<br />
► The thicker the thread, the looser the tensions.<br />
To set the tension, set one tension at a time.<br />
► An important TIP sew slowly when using<br />
decorative threads and pull the thread chain<br />
gently backwards when starting to sew.<br />
► ALWAYS test-sew when using decorative<br />
threads.<br />
If you are not sure if you have enough<br />
thread,<br />
you can calculate the amount of decorative thread<br />
needed for your project as follows: Looper threads will<br />
require 7 mt of thread for every 1 mt length of stitching.<br />
So measure the length you need to sew and multiply it<br />
by 7.<br />
© 2011 <strong>Sewing</strong> <strong>With</strong> <strong>Confidence</strong> Ltd.
LESSON<br />
1<br />
Decorative<br />
1. Use a wide 3-thread overlock<br />
stitch with different thread<br />
colours in the loopers.<br />
2. Overlock parallel tucks.<br />
3. Always start the tucks at the<br />
same end and position the<br />
fabric so that when you sew<br />
the pucks down you will get<br />
the effect you are wanting.<br />
4. Now sew the tucks down<br />
with a sewing machine in<br />
alternative directions (See the<br />
lesson)<br />
1. Use a 3 thread narrow<br />
overlock stitch(See lesson<br />
3 of basic lessons). Use<br />
decorative threads in the<br />
loopers.<br />
2. Set the stitch length very short<br />
- to a satin stitch length.<br />
3. The looper threads must meet<br />
at the edge of the fabric. (This<br />
is not a ROLL hemming stitch).<br />
Decorative Tucks<br />
Decorative tucks can be very effective, Turn and lock the upper blade away.<br />
Fold the fabric and guide the fold on the guide mark on the presser foot.<br />
TUCK VARIATIONS<br />
DECORATIVE EDGES<br />
© 2011 <strong>Sewing</strong> <strong>With</strong> <strong>Confidence</strong> Ltd.
LESSON<br />
2<br />
Decorative<br />
Try these variations<br />
Use a decorative thread in the<br />
upper looper.<br />
1. Set the machine for a short<br />
stitch length and sew a “satin<br />
stitch” rolled edge.<br />
2. NOW DO A TEST<br />
3. You may need to adjust the<br />
tension to suit the thread<br />
thickness.<br />
Pin Tucks<br />
This is very effective on shirts, skirts<br />
& yokes.<br />
Turn the blade away and sew the<br />
rolled edge on folded fabric to form<br />
a pin-tuck.<br />
Lace Insertions<br />
Place the wrong sides together<br />
when you sew the lace in position<br />
using a roll hem.<br />
Decorative Roll Hemming<br />
Apart from roll hemming being a practical stitch; it can be used very effectively as decorative<br />
stitching.<br />
(See Lesson 6 under the basic stitches section on how to set your machine for roll hemming).<br />
Remember decorative thread is only used on the upper looper. When using decorative<br />
thread your settings may need ro be adjusted.<br />
© 2011 <strong>Sewing</strong> <strong>With</strong> <strong>Confidence</strong> Ltd.
LESSON<br />
3<br />
Decorative<br />
Settings for Flatlocking<br />
1. Use a 3 or 2 thread overlock<br />
stitch. Set the needle tension at<br />
the lowest setting, and the lower<br />
looper tighter.<br />
2. For a 2-thread overlock stitch,<br />
use the upper looper converter.<br />
(See lesson 4 in basic lessons.)<br />
3. The stitch looks like a 3-thread<br />
stitch from the top, but the needle<br />
thread forms, an even ‘V’ on<br />
the bottom. These threads must<br />
meet at the edge of the fabric<br />
4. Test for the correct stitch setting<br />
by pulling the fabric for the stitch<br />
to lie flat.<br />
Flatlock Seams<br />
Flat seams are formed by sewing a 2 or 3 thread overlock stitch to join two pieces of fabric<br />
or on the fold of the fabric.<br />
The fabric is then pulled open so that the stitch lies flat.<br />
© 2011 <strong>Sewing</strong> <strong>With</strong> <strong>Confidence</strong> Ltd.