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Dairy Sheep Symposium - the Department of Animal Sciences ...

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LATEST DEVELOPMENT IN THE USE OF RAW MILK FOR CHEESEMAKING<br />

W.L. Wendorff<br />

<strong>Department</strong> <strong>of</strong> Food Science<br />

University <strong>of</strong> Wisconsin, Madison<br />

Madison, Wisconsin<br />

Introduction<br />

Since 1949, cheesemakers could use one <strong>of</strong> two methods to assure <strong>the</strong> safety <strong>of</strong> cheese that<br />

<strong>the</strong>y produced: 1) pasteurize milk intended for cheesemaking or 2) hold <strong>the</strong> finished cheese at a<br />

temperature <strong>of</strong> not less than 35°F for at least 60 days (US FDA, 2000). Research over <strong>the</strong> years<br />

has shown that various pathogens can survive well beyond <strong>the</strong> mandatory 60 day aging period in<br />

various cheeses (Table 1). In April 1997, FDA ask <strong>the</strong> National Advisory Committee on Microbiological<br />

Criteria for Foods if a revision <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> policy requiring a minimum 60 day aging period<br />

for raw milk hard cheeses was necessary to ensure <strong>the</strong> safety <strong>of</strong> hard cheeses for U.S. consumers<br />

(Donnelly, 2001). Some <strong>of</strong> this concern was initiated when Wisconsin temporarily lost <strong>the</strong> TBfree<br />

status due to TB-contaminated animals being transported in from Upper Michigan (Anonymous,<br />

1995). Additional concerns came from a report by Reitsma and Henning (1996) detailing<br />

<strong>the</strong> survival <strong>of</strong> E. coli 0157:H7 in aged Cheddar cheese. The Institute <strong>of</strong> Food Science and<br />

Technology (IFST) in <strong>the</strong> UK also issued a caution on <strong>the</strong> potential health hazards posed by<br />

pathogenic bacteria in raw milk cheeses, especially s<strong>of</strong>t and semi-s<strong>of</strong>t cheeses (IFST, 2000). In<br />

1999, FDA initiated challenge studies with E. coli 0157:H7 in raw milk Cheddar cheese to<br />

determine <strong>the</strong> effectiveness <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> aging period in eliminating <strong>the</strong> potential pathogen. At <strong>the</strong><br />

same time, <strong>the</strong>y started a comprehensive review on <strong>the</strong> safety <strong>of</strong> raw milk cheeses.<br />

The American Cheese Society, in conjunction with Oldways Preservation and Exchange<br />

Trust and <strong>the</strong> Cheese Importers <strong>of</strong> America, were very concerned with <strong>the</strong> potential that FDA<br />

may ban raw milk cheeses. In March 2000, <strong>the</strong>y formed <strong>the</strong> Cheese <strong>of</strong> Choice Coalition to work<br />

with FDA to preserve <strong>the</strong>ir ability to manufacture and import raw milk cheeses under <strong>the</strong> existing<br />

food regulations. In November 2000, <strong>the</strong>y hired Dr. Ca<strong>the</strong>rine Donnelly <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> University <strong>of</strong><br />

Vermont to assist in a thorough review <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> past safety <strong>of</strong> raw milk cheeses. She recently<br />

presented her findings at this year’s American Cheese Society meeting in Louisville, KY<br />

(Donnelly, 2001). Following is a summary <strong>of</strong> her findings:<br />

Reviews on Safety <strong>of</strong> Raw Milk Cheeses<br />

Johnson et al. (1990) conducted a comprehensive review <strong>of</strong> epidemiological literature from<br />

1948-1988. They identified only six outbreaks <strong>of</strong> illness transmitted via cheese produced in <strong>the</strong><br />

U.S. during this period. The use <strong>of</strong> raw milk was a factor in one outbreak each in <strong>the</strong> U.S. and<br />

Canada. No outbreaks were reported for hard Italian cheeses, such as Parmesan, Romano and<br />

Provolone. In rare instances, Swiss and Cheddar cheeses were linked in outbreaks.<br />

Altekruse et al. (1998) reviewed all cheese associated outbreaks reported to <strong>the</strong> CDC during<br />

<strong>the</strong> period 1973-1992. There were 32 cheese-related outbreaks, 11 <strong>of</strong> which could be attributed<br />

to contamination at <strong>the</strong> farm during manufacturing or processing. Of <strong>the</strong> 11 outbreaks, 5 were<br />

related to consumption <strong>of</strong> Mexican-style s<strong>of</strong>t cheese whereas only 1 outbreak was related to<br />

Cheddar cheese. The authors suggested that aging alone may not be a sufficient pathogen control<br />

step to eliminate Salmonella, Listeria, and E. coli 0157:H7 from cheese.

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