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great lakes dairy sheep symposium - the Department of Animal ...

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e-awaken people to <strong>the</strong> fact that <strong>the</strong>se cheeses simply taste better than <strong>the</strong>ir factory produced<br />

counterparts.<br />

As <strong>the</strong> farmhouse cheese industry began to regain some momentum, this same group <strong>of</strong><br />

people also began to try and influence some <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> legislative issues surrounding farmhouse<br />

cheese production. This is a slow and torturous process. However, it is essential for <strong>the</strong>se<br />

producers to be able to continue in <strong>the</strong> face <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> industrialization <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> majority <strong>of</strong> our food<br />

sources.<br />

By <strong>the</strong> mid 1990’s, <strong>the</strong> industry was looking very different from one decade earlier. New<br />

cheese makers and cheeses were emerging, largely inspired by <strong>the</strong> revitalization <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> traditional<br />

farmhouse cheese producers and <strong>the</strong> fact that a viable market was being established. New<br />

specialty cheese stores and wholesalers began to spring up, thus educating <strong>the</strong> public and<br />

generating demand for quality cheese on a wider basis.<br />

So how does <strong>the</strong> DBIC fit into all <strong>of</strong> this? Well, essentially <strong>the</strong>y are striving to achieve <strong>the</strong><br />

same goals as those mentioned above. Not only is <strong>the</strong> DBIC bringing toge<strong>the</strong>r <strong>dairy</strong> farmers and<br />

cheese producers with legislators and industry experts, and thus creating a viable future. They are<br />

also ensuring <strong>the</strong> longevity <strong>of</strong> this trend by providing an educational platform amongst <strong>the</strong> public<br />

and those interested in entering <strong>the</strong> industry.<br />

It is a system that works. Pro<strong>of</strong> <strong>of</strong> that lies in <strong>the</strong> U.K. model and <strong>the</strong> fact that <strong>the</strong>re are now<br />

280 small-scale cheese producers in <strong>the</strong> U.K. as opposed to approximately 33 in 1984. The same<br />

trend is happening in <strong>the</strong> U.S. and is exemplified by <strong>the</strong> increasing number <strong>of</strong> members <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />

American Cheese Society.<br />

Two examples <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> positive changes that are taking place in Wisconsin are at Uplands<br />

Cheese and Hidden Springs Farm. Uplands Cheese is a cow milk <strong>dairy</strong> and cheese production<br />

facility based near Dodgeville and Hidden Springs is a <strong>sheep</strong> milk <strong>dairy</strong> near Westby.<br />

Uplands Farm, Dodgeville, Wisconsin<br />

Uplands Cheese is owned by two couples. Mike and Carol Gingrich and Dan and Jeanne<br />

Patenaude.<br />

The business comprises a 300-acre farm and working <strong>dairy</strong> that was purchased in 1994. Up<br />

until 2004/5, cheese making took place at ano<strong>the</strong>r cheese plant, using milk from <strong>the</strong> Uplands<br />

herd.<br />

Mike and Carol Gingrich have lived on a small farm in Wisconsin since 1974. Dan also grew<br />

up on a small neighboring farm and, when he met <strong>the</strong> Gingriches, he owned and milked 30 cows.<br />

The pattern <strong>of</strong> <strong>dairy</strong> farming in Wisconsin is such that, traditionally, <strong>the</strong>re have always been<br />

a large number <strong>of</strong> small-scale farms. Typically, each farm would have between 15 and 30 cows.<br />

6

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