KICK-BUTT SELF-DEFENSE: Lori Hartman Gervasi, author

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Chef James Kelly approaches his creations as American cuisine that one experiences as well as tastes. guest was poured a glass of champagne that turned a different pastel color as it was poured. A salad of spring greens topped with a soft-cooked quail egg, tiny new potatoes, haricot vert, grape tomatoes and kalamata olives with a fresh wine vinaigrette started the dinner. Next, it was sea bass poached in olive oil and served on a jasmine rice cake with a watercress sauce. The bowl in which it was served was placed in a second bowl filled with jasmine flowers and stems. When boiling water was added to the flowers, a jasmine vapor wafted up to increase the flavor of the dish. The next course was spring break chicken — a bowl with roasted chicken resting on spring vegetables. It also 32 | inlandlivingmagazine.com | may 09 included a beer-bong-type tube that was filled with broth to be poured over the chicken. Then came an Indian Za’atar spiced lamb porterhouse in the style of the Festival of Colors. Served with a multitude of flavorful and colorful sauces, the lamb also was accompanied by asparagus and fingerling potatoes. To finish the evening, the chef had filled small flower pots with a sweet candy grass and homemade fresh fruit flavored marshmallow lollipops. There was even an Easter egg hunt. Guests looked high and low for plastic eggs filled with fruit and nut clusters dipped in chocolate and marshmallows shaped like butterflies and flowers. The Kellys’ efforts to create a one-ofa-kind restaurant has been recognized twice recently by the Southern California Restaurant Writers Association. In 2008, James was named chef of the year, and Denise received the top maitre’d award this year. Owen’s is only open for dinner Wednesday through Saturday — mostly because chef Kelly also teaches at The Art Institutes’ International Culinary School. Sometimes, a couple of his students can be found helping in the kitchen. It’s good experience — just like it was for him when he worked in his grandparents’ kitchen. Owen’s Bistro 5210 D St., Chino 909-628-0452, www.owensbistro.com, e-mail owensbistro@yahoo.com Dinner 5 p.m. to close Wednesday through Saturday
From the kitchen of chef James Kelly Spring Break Chicken (serves 4) Ingredients 2 whole chickens (small) farm-raised if available. Remove breasts leaving the first joint of wing attached. Chicken consume or broth — homemade using left over chicken parts or store bought olive oil Assorted vegetables; carrots, onions, snap peas, (or your choice), sauteed or steamed Rice paper Mashed potatoes Salt and pepper to taste Directions Pre heat oven to 500 degrees. Season chicken on all sides with salt and pepper. Heat a large saute pan and coat with olive oil, add chicken breasts to sear. Place pan with chicken breasts in oven for about 14 minutes or until fully cooked. Remove from oven and let rest about 5 minutes, then slice on the bias in 2 or 3 pieces. To finish, fan chicken over a scoop of the sauteed or steamed veggies, slightly off center in a shallow soup bowl. Place a small scoop of mashed potatoes next to chicken. Next to the potatoes, prop an 8-inch length of curved clear plastic tubing, 1 inch diameter. Fill tube with hot consomme or broth using a small funnel. Break rice paper disk in half and prop askew over chicken breast with bottom corner of rice paper secured in mashed potatoes. Invite guests to pour consume from hose over the rice paper, which will soften and appear translucent (much like a wet T-shirt contest). Tangerine Panna Cotta Ingredients 2 tangerines (zested) 1 quart heavy cream 1 tablespoon powdered gelatin 3 tablespoons cold water ¼ cup sugar 1 tablespoon vanilla Directions Add gelatin slowly to cold water and stir to combine. Let sit three minutes to bloom. Add sugar, vanilla and tangerine zest to cream. Bring cream to scalding and add bloomed gelatin mixture, stir. Strain cream through a fine mesh strainer and pour mixture into eight ramekins or heat-proof glasses. Cool in refrigerator uncovered until just set (about 30 minutes). Then cover with plastic wrap and chill thoroughly. Squeeze the juice from the zested tangerines and pour over each panna cotta. Finish with whipped cream and a fresh mint leaf for garnish. Spring Salad This recipe is fully adjustable to your own liking — as most recipes should be. Go to a local farm stand or farmers market and pick up spring greens, new potatoes, haricot verts (petite green beans), onions, carrots, broccoli, cauliflower or whatever you like. Cut the veggies into bite-sized pieces. Boil them in heavily seasoned water for a couple of minutes separately, then immerse them in ice water. This will set the vibrant, beautiful color of your veggies and take away their rawness while leaving a nice snap. Lay veggies out on a cookie sheet and season to taste with salt and pepper. For dressing, pick a flavor that you like and that will go with the other flavors in the salad. Put the flesh in the blender with about ¼ cup vinegar. Add a pinch of fresh garlic, some salt and pepper, a squeeze of honey and a teaspoon of dijon mustard, then blend on low for a minute. Open the top of the blender and drizzle in about twice as much olive oil as there is vinegar. Then check it — if it’s too thick add a couple drops of water and blend, if it’s too thin, add more oil. It should coat the back of a spoon and hold a line when a spoon is drawn through it. If the taste is too spicy or acidic add a little more honey, too sweet add vinegar. To finish: toss your greens in just enough dressing to coat. Lay greens on plate and dot with veggies, or toss everything together and mound high in a shallow bowl but make sure to place some of the colorful veggies on top for eye appeal. If you like nuts, now would be a good time. A nice salty cheese would finish this off beautifully. may 09 | inlandlivingmagazine.com | 33
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KICK-BUTT SELF-DEFENSE: Lori Hartman Gervasi, author

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