RPi Easy SD Card Setup - eLinux.org
RPi Easy SD Card Setup - eLinux.org RPi Easy SD Card Setup - eLinux.org
The GPIO pins connect directly into the core of the ARM processer, and are staticsensitive, so you should avoid touching the pins wherever possible. If you are carrying a static charge, for example by taking off an acrylic pullover, or walking across a nylon carpet, touching the GPIO pins could destroy your R-Pi, so always earth yourself before touching the pins or anything connected to them. General The time is incorrect If the clock is off by a series of hours, in the command line type: sudo dpkg-reconfigure tzdata The R-Pi has no real-time clock, so unless it can access a timeserver over the network at boot, or time is manually entered by the user, the time/date will restart counting from the last logged time in the previous session. A part broke off The silver cylinder near the microUSB power input is a 220 uF capacitor ("C6" on schematic). It sticks up and due to the small surface-mount pads, it is easy to break off; several people have done so. This is a power supply filter capacitor which reduces any noise and spikes on the input +5V power. If you like, you can solder it back on, or just leave it off. If you do solder it back on, take care to observe the correct polarity with the black stripe towards the board edge. This part, C6 is a "just in case" component which is good design practice to include, but as it turns out (http://www.raspberrypi.org/phpBB3/ viewtopic.php?f=2&t=4926%7C) most power supplies still work OK without this part installed. This part is also discussed here (http://elinux.org/ RPi_Hardware#Capacitor_C6) . Unable to install new software When trying to install a software package (using the command sudo apt-get install xxxx) you may see the error Package yyyy is not available This means that your software list is out of date. Before attempting to install software, you should always make sure that you are using the latest software list by using the command
sudo apt-get update Troubleshooting power problems If you think you have a problem with your power supply, it is a good idea to check the actual voltage on the Raspberry Pi circuit board. Two test points labelled TP1 and TP2 are provided on the circuit board to facilitate voltage measurements. Use a multimeter which is set to the range 20 volts DC (or 20v =). You should see a voltage between 4.75 and 5.25 volts. Anything outside this range indicates that you have a problem with your power supply or your power cable. If you have not used a multimeter before, see these [basic instructions (http://www.sparkfun.com/tutorials/202) ] Note: Even if the multimeter shows the correct voltage, you may have some power supply problems. A multimeter only displays the average voltage. If there are very shortlived dips or spikes in the voltage, these will not be shown by the multimeter. It is best to measure voltage when Pi is busy. If your voltage is low, it could be: ▪ The power supply produces too low a voltage ▪ The power supply cannot supply enough current, which results in a voltage drop. Make sure Power supply is labelled as at least 700mA. (Some cheap power supplies don't deliver what is labelled). ▪ The Micro USB power cable is low quality. Some Micro USB cables have very thin conductors, resulting in enough voltage drop for RasPi to fail even if the power supply itself is fine. For details, see On_the_RPi_usb_power_cable. ▪ Attached USB devices want too much power. The Pi is only designed for up to 100mA USB devices. A USB device wanting more that that will cause a voltage drop. ▪ The F3 Polyfuse could be blown or bad, see below for how to test. Note: keyboards with LCD displays, built in USB hubs, backlights, etc are likely to be problematic. Try to use a basic one. Wifi dongles are also unlikely to work when directly connected. Connect high powered USB devices to a powered USB hub. Try booting without HDMI, ethernet or USB deviced plugged in, and see if the voltage improves. See also: Power Supply Problems
- Page 115 and 116: ▪ Contents of floppy now availabl
- Page 117 and 118: ▪ 5V 2.1A USB charger for iPad2,
- Page 119 and 120: ▪ 5V 1A dual USB power supply, mo
- Page 121 and 122: Problem power Adapters ▪ Masterpl
- Page 123 and 124: HDMI->VGA converter boxes Most will
- Page 125 and 126: And another one: http://cgi.ebay.pl
- Page 127 and 128: cd /sys/class/mmc_host/mmc?/mmc?:*
- Page 129 and 130: ▪ 32GB SDHC Class 10 (man:0x00000
- Page 131 and 132: ▪ 4GB SDHC Class 6 Platinum II (f
- Page 133 and 134: ▪ pqi ▪ 4GB SDHC Class 4. Micro
- Page 135 and 136: 234c19de7cbaaf4997671d61df20a057590
- Page 137 and 138: ▪ 16GB SDHC Class 10 SD-T16G (104
- Page 139 and 140: ▪ 16GB SDHC Class 6 (Possibly SD5
- Page 141 and 142: ▪ 2GB Ultra || 15MB/s (BE08287132
- Page 143 and 144: Note that the following error is so
- Page 145 and 146: R-Pi Troubleshooting From eLinux.or
- Page 147 and 148: Red power LED is blinking The red p
- Page 149 and 150: Coloured splash screen With recent
- Page 151 and 152: Some users have reported that their
- Page 153 and 154: Copyright (c) 2012 Broadcom version
- Page 155 and 156: Networking Ethernet connection is l
- Page 157 and 158: As of 1 September 2012, this fault
- Page 159 and 160: Speaker-test -c 2 -s 1 -t wav -W /u
- Page 161 and 162: Can only get 800x480 resolution in
- Page 163 and 164: Edit the configuration file, see th
- Page 165: Composite displays no image The out
- Page 169 and 170: 3. Turn your board over and find th
- Page 171 and 172: Board ver. RAM Chip USB Chip BS12xx
- Page 173 and 174: ▪ This page was last modified on
- Page 175 and 176: Here is an example file # Set stdv
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- Page 179 and 180: hdmi_mode=18 1024x768 75Hz hdmi_mod
- Page 181 and 182: Which values are valid for my monit
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- Page 185 and 186: enables dynamic clocks and voltage
- Page 187 and 188: Retrieved from "http://elinux.org/i
- Page 189 and 190: Hardware and Hardware History. Low-
- Page 191 and 192: Each GPIO can interrupt, high/low/r
- Page 193 and 194: Colour legend +5 V +3.3 V Ground, 0
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- Page 203 and 204: gpio export 17 out gpio export 18 i
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- Page 207 and 208: References 1. ↑ http://www.raspbe
- Page 209 and 210: RaspberryPi Boards From eLinux.org
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- Page 215 and 216: BH1218 Hynix SMSC BH1218 Hynix SMSC
sudo apt-get update<br />
Troubleshooting power problems<br />
If you think you have a problem with your power supply, it is a good idea to check the<br />
actual voltage on the Raspberry Pi circuit board. Two test points labelled TP1 and TP2<br />
are provided on the circuit board to facilitate voltage measurements.<br />
Use a multimeter which is set to the range 20 volts DC (or 20v =). You should see a<br />
voltage between 4.75 and 5.25 volts. Anything outside this range indicates that you have<br />
a problem with your power supply or your power cable.<br />
If you have not used a multimeter before, see these [basic instructions<br />
(http://www.sparkfun.com/tutorials/202) ]<br />
Note: Even if the multimeter shows the correct voltage, you may have some power<br />
supply problems. A multimeter only displays the average voltage. If there are very shortlived<br />
dips or spikes in the voltage, these will not be shown by the multimeter. It is best to<br />
measure voltage when Pi is busy.<br />
If your voltage is low, it could be:<br />
▪ The power supply produces too low a voltage<br />
▪ The power supply cannot supply enough current, which results in a voltage drop.<br />
Make sure Power supply is labelled as at least 700mA. (Some cheap power supplies<br />
don't deliver what is labelled).<br />
▪ The Micro USB power cable is low quality. Some Micro USB cables have very thin<br />
conductors, resulting in enough voltage drop for RasPi to fail even if the power<br />
supply itself is fine. For details, see On_the_<strong>RPi</strong>_usb_power_cable.<br />
▪ Attached USB devices want too much power. The Pi is only designed for up to<br />
100mA USB devices. A USB device wanting more that that will cause a voltage<br />
drop.<br />
▪ The F3 Polyfuse could be blown or bad, see below for how to test.<br />
Note: keyboards with LCD displays, built in USB hubs, backlights, etc are likely to be<br />
problematic. Try to use a basic one. Wifi dongles are also unlikely to work when directly<br />
connected. Connect high powered USB devices to a powered USB hub.<br />
Try booting without HDMI, ethernet or USB deviced plugged in, and see if the voltage<br />
improves. See also: Power Supply Problems
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