Cutting & Styling Guide - L'Oreal Professionnel - L'Oréal Professionnel

Cutting & Styling Guide - L'Oreal Professionnel - L'Oréal Professionnel Cutting & Styling Guide - L'Oreal Professionnel - L'Oréal Professionnel

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HEART HAND HEAD<br />

<strong>Cutting</strong> &<br />

<strong>Styling</strong> <strong>Guide</strong>


Above: Filip Galas / Mark Woolley / Andrew Mulvenna<br />

Below: Isabelle Lachance / Elefterios Kikeris / Eric Leturgie<br />

HEART HAND HEAD<br />

International Creation Team<br />

2012


HEART HAND HEAD<br />

by hairstylists<br />

for hairstylists<br />

From all over The world,<br />

where passion, talent, and<br />

community meet.<br />

What is H 3 ?<br />

HEART HAND HEAD<br />

H 3 is an international team of 6 hairstylists from different countries and cultures who share<br />

a common passion for creation and education.<br />

Every year, a creation team determines the cutting and styling trends and then passes<br />

them on all across the world to an international network of H3 Experts. In each country, a<br />

national team of H3 Experts share their passion for cutting and styling with thousands of<br />

<strong>L'Oréal</strong> <strong>Professionnel</strong> salons.<br />

The philosophy<br />

H 3 is a concept combining the Heart, Hand and Head.<br />

Heart - Inspire with passion<br />

Each H3 member is driven by a passion for the hairstyling profession, whether they are<br />

a member of the creation team, a national expert or a hairstylist taking part in a training<br />

seminar.<br />

Hand - Gain technical expertise<br />

Expertise, know-how and excellence in styling and cutting. The ability to create technical<br />

cuts or elegant, simple styles, driven by fashion and cultural trends. Controlling volume,<br />

movement and length. Mastering the tools for cutting and styling.<br />

Head - Develop your retail business<br />

Versatile haircuts, multiple looks, and the styling products to help clients achieve them.<br />

The H3 philosophy and technique will boost your bottom line with infinite retail sales<br />

opportunities.


Mark Woolley<br />

(london, United Kingdom).<br />

owner and Creative director of<br />

eleCTrIC haIrdreSSING loNdoN.<br />

mark runs an 80 stylist group based both in london<br />

and in Brighton. Specialized in editorial and<br />

photographic work, he collaborates with designers,<br />

musicians, photographers and other key media<br />

personalities. his vision of hair is based in simplicity<br />

and purity. he likes bold shapes that combine<br />

precision cutting and color to create a customized<br />

look that is strong but can be worn daily.<br />

mark simply but stunningly transforms the<br />

wearable "boudoir beauty" look into his more<br />

editorial "vanity" look.<br />

“I love our industry and I love education. I like nothing<br />

better than sharing our knowledge with an audience,<br />

sharing our creativity, and I love being part of H 3 . Just<br />

do it! You only get out what you put in so make sure you<br />

work damn hard to the best of your ability and do it with<br />

integrity, passion and strong vision.”<br />

BoUdoIr<br />

eauty<br />

B<br />

Vanity


321<br />

Cut<br />

Noémie's<br />

1 2 3<br />

define tHe lengtH and tHe<br />

strong concave sHape of<br />

tHe perimeter<br />

Sectioning<br />

Divide the hair into 4 sections according to<br />

the diagram.<br />

Fringe<br />

1. Create a central vertical parting from the<br />

crown to the nape. On the right side, use a<br />

diagonal forward parting, at natural fall, with 0<br />

degrees elevation, and cut parallel to the part.<br />

Repeat on left side. Use cut subsections as<br />

a stationary guide and continue to cut in the<br />

same manner, subsection by subsection, until<br />

reaching the crown.<br />

SideS<br />

2. Using diagonal forward subsections, overdirect<br />

the hair on each side back, over the<br />

shoulders, and cut to follow the stationary guide.<br />

define tHe sHape and<br />

lengtH of tHe fringe<br />

top<br />

3. Within the triangle section in the front,<br />

take a horizontal subsection at the front<br />

hairline, and establish your stationary guide<br />

for the fringe by cutting in the comb, with<br />

0 degrees elevation, parallel to the part.<br />

Continue with horizontal subsections until<br />

the fringe area is complete.<br />

laYerING<br />

encoUrage movement<br />

for tHe internal<br />

and external layered<br />

Create a central vertical section, from the front<br />

hairline to the crown, overdirect up, and cut<br />

square. Overdirect all hair above the parietal<br />

ridge, to the stationary guide, and cut square.<br />

Slice from the chin though the mid-lengths<br />

and ends in the front to create texture and<br />

release weight. Finally, check the balance on<br />

each side.<br />

fInd THE CuTTIng<br />

sTEP by sTEP VIdEO On<br />

www.lorealprofessionel-us.com


LOOK 1<br />

Before blowdrying, apply Smooth<br />

Velours evenly to mid-lengths and<br />

ends… then layer Mousse Volupté<br />

to add some texture.<br />

1. Dry the fringe, smooth and flat, using<br />

a paddle brush in a side to side action.<br />

2. Take horizontal "brush size"<br />

sections and dry the hair around a<br />

round brush to create polished and<br />

open curls.<br />

look 1<br />

fInd THE sTyLIng<br />

sTEP by sTEP VIdEO On<br />

www.lorealprofessionel-us.com<br />

1 3a<br />

4a 5<br />

2 3b<br />

4b<br />

3. When dry, leave the brush in<br />

each section. When cooled, "twist"<br />

the brush out of the section and<br />

place a pin curl.<br />

Looks<br />

Noémie's<br />

wHat do i need?<br />

smooth velours<br />

mousse volupté<br />

infinium 4<br />

Hairdryer<br />

Round brush<br />

Pins<br />

4. Use the same principle at the sides. 5. Release the hair from the pin<br />

curls. Tilt the client's head forward,<br />

then with your fingers or a paddle<br />

brush, brush through the hair forward<br />

from the nape. While the head is<br />

still forward, spray with infinium 4.<br />

Return to normal position, and rearrange<br />

the hair in what you feel is<br />

the proper style. Add more infinium 4<br />

as necessary.<br />

look 2<br />

fInd THE sTyLIng<br />

sTEP by sTEP VIdEO On<br />

www.lorealprofessionel-us.com<br />

LOOK 2<br />

Spray Fresh dust to prime hair and<br />

add density. Complete a straight<br />

blow dry with a round brush before<br />

starting the up do.<br />

1. Make a center parting from crown<br />

to nape. Before back combing, add<br />

a small amount of infinium 2 to<br />

increase grip and add texture. Back<br />

comb each side with maximum<br />

volume and rough texture. Then<br />

smooth out with a bristle brush<br />

keeping the volume.<br />

wHat do i need?<br />

fresh dust<br />

infinium 2<br />

infinium 4<br />

Hairdryer<br />

Round brush<br />

Pins<br />

1a 2<br />

1b 3<br />

1c 4<br />

2. Make a ponytail on both sides of<br />

the head, just behind the ear.<br />

3. Twist both ponytails into a bun<br />

shape on both sides retaining some<br />

of the rough texture to give an editorial<br />

feel and finish.<br />

4. Secure the buns with fine pins.<br />

5. Smooth out the fringe with a hot<br />

flat iron to create a small contrast in<br />

texture. Fix in place with infinium 4.


Isabelle lachance<br />

(montréal, Canada).<br />

Co-founder and creative director of<br />

oBlIC SaloNS and TorNade aCademY.<br />

a hard worker and devoted mother, Isabelle manages<br />

a group of 100 stylists and is passionate about<br />

sharing her knowledge with others.<br />

She often plays with asymmetry, geometry and<br />

a diversity of colors. her cutting style is always<br />

evolving and has been migrating towards a more<br />

editorial style.<br />

Isabelle will take you on a journey from pure<br />

and graphic lines to a more sensual and feminine<br />

style with uniquely formed curls.<br />

"Everything happens for a reason. Making people<br />

happy makes my day. I cannot stand pessimism!"<br />

art<br />

lover<br />

a F ShIoN<br />

ddict


4321<br />

Cut<br />

lisa's<br />

1 2 3 4<br />

define tHe lengtH and<br />

tHe strong convex sHape<br />

of tHe perimeter<br />

Section the hair into 4 sections according to<br />

the diagram.<br />

Back<br />

1. Create a central vertical parting from the<br />

crown to the nape. On the right side, use a<br />

diagonal back parting, at natural fall, with 0<br />

degrees elevation, and cut parallel to the part.<br />

Repeat on left side. Use cut subsections as<br />

a stationary guide and continue to cut in the<br />

same manner, subsection by subsection, until<br />

reaching the crown.<br />

SideS<br />

Using diagonal back subsections, overdirect<br />

the hair on each side back, over the shoulders,<br />

and cut to follow the stationary guide.<br />

crown, top, and Fringe<br />

2. All hair in the crown section is overdirected<br />

forward and the length for the internal layering<br />

is established by cutting the hair square.<br />

create tHe internal<br />

layering at tHe front<br />

3. The remaining hair in the top section is<br />

combed into the guide, overdiected forward,<br />

and cut following your guide.<br />

create tHe asymmetric<br />

fringe<br />

Fringe<br />

4. Subdivide the top section into three<br />

subsections. Begin by twisting and slicing<br />

the first section, overdirecting with a strong<br />

angle. Use the same technique and blend the<br />

next two subsections together to create the<br />

asymmetric fringe.<br />

fInd THE CuTTIng<br />

sTEP by sTEP VIdEO On<br />

www.lorealprofessionel-us.com


Looks<br />

lisa's<br />

look 1<br />

fInd THE sTyLIng<br />

sTEP by sTEP VIdEO On<br />

www.lorealprofessionel-us.com<br />

wHat do i need?<br />

smooth velours<br />

mythic oil<br />

Hairdryer<br />

Round brush<br />

1a<br />

1b<br />

Look 1<br />

1. Apply a small amount of Smooth<br />

Velours to damp hair. Dry and style<br />

your hair using a round brush. Do not<br />

elevate the roots to create volume.<br />

2. Finish with Mythic oil to add shine<br />

and movement.<br />

look 2<br />

fInd THE sTyLIng<br />

sTEP by sTEP VIdEO On<br />

www.lorealprofessionel-us.com<br />

2a<br />

2b<br />

2c<br />

3<br />

wHat do i need?<br />

fresh dust<br />

infinium 2<br />

infinium 3<br />

Hairdryer and "2 inch" curling iron<br />

flat brush and round brush<br />

LOOK 2<br />

1. Apply Fresh Dust section by<br />

section at the roots. Start with a flat<br />

brush for volume at the roots and<br />

finish with a round brush to give a<br />

sensual and curved shape.<br />

3. Use a 2 inch curling iron to create<br />

big curls or waves depending on hair<br />

length and density. Spray Infinium 2<br />

on each section to add hold.<br />

3. Finish with a light mist of Infinium 3<br />

to define and separate the curl pattern<br />

and the overall shape.


Elefterios "lefty" kikeris<br />

(athens, Greece).<br />

owner and art director of<br />

TelIS KIKerIS CompaNY<br />

lefty manages 200 stylists in 24 salons and one<br />

academy in athens. he is a natural craftsman of hair.<br />

He loves soft shapes and seamless finishes. He also<br />

appreciates geometry and believes that haircutting<br />

and styling should combine both symmetric and<br />

asymmetric structures. he prefers to keep hairdressing<br />

simple but never boring or monotonous.<br />

lefty focuses on how to make the most of<br />

simplicity with two dramatically opposite looks<br />

out of one smart cut.<br />

“Don’t do the things right, do the right things. Education<br />

is the key. Learn as much as you can because there are no<br />

limits in knowledge and progress.”<br />

F a ShIoN<br />

ddict<br />

vening<br />

INTrIGUe


Cut<br />

ophélie's<br />

21<br />

CUT<br />

create tHe base<br />

of tHe cUt<br />

Sectioning<br />

Section the hair into 2 sections according to<br />

the diagram.<br />

BeLow parietaL ridge<br />

1. Create a length guide around the parietal<br />

ridge. Starting from the temple, and working<br />

to the center of the back, overdirect the hair out<br />

from the head shape to retain perimeter length<br />

while cutting parallel to the vertical subsection.<br />

Repeat on opposite side.<br />

zonE 1 - Executed with scissors<br />

➟ STYlInG ➟<br />

dry to get Hair flat<br />

and smootH<br />

2. Blow-dry hair smoothly and completely.<br />

refine tHe textUre<br />

3. Refine haircut by point cutting through the<br />

perimeter and shaping the baseline.<br />

aBoVe parietaL ridge<br />

Release the section above the parietal ridge<br />

and blend with the hair below using point<br />

cutting. Finally, check the balance on each side.<br />

WET<br />

DRY


Cut<br />

ophélie's<br />

STYlInG<br />

dry for Ultra flat,<br />

smootH Hair<br />

1. dry the hair using a round brush and<br />

work with the natural direction.<br />

use a straightening iron to add shine,<br />

reduce volume even more and refine the<br />

curve of the global shape.<br />

zonE 2 - Executed with razor<br />

➟<br />

CUT<br />

➟<br />

on dry hair<br />

create tHe disconnected<br />

concave bob<br />

2. using the razor, layer the top section<br />

but leave it longer to have an undercut<br />

feel. Overdirect every section slightly back<br />

in order to keep some lenght in the front.<br />

CUT fInISh<br />

on dry hair<br />

refine tHe oUtline sHape<br />

3. finally, create the outline using the<br />

razor as a "pen" and tiping to the hair to<br />

refine the shape.<br />

fInd THE CuTTIng<br />

sTEP by sTEP VIdEO On<br />

www.lorealprofessionel-us.com<br />

look 1<br />

look 2<br />

fInd THE sTyLIng<br />

sTEP by sTEP VIdEO On<br />

www.lorealprofessionel-us.com<br />

Looks<br />

ophélie's<br />

1. Apply Fresh dust, followed by curl Satin,<br />

and blow-dry hair while lifting at the roots<br />

throughout the interior of the style.<br />

2. Use a flat iron to create uplift at the roots<br />

and waves through the hair ends.<br />

3. Complete the style with Freezing Mist for<br />

firm hold.<br />

2 3a 3b<br />

wHat do i need?<br />

smooth Ultime<br />

mythic oil<br />

perfect shimmer<br />

Hairdryer and a round brush<br />

flat iron<br />

wHat do i need?<br />

fresh dust<br />

curl satin<br />

freezing mist<br />

Hairdryer and a round brush<br />

flat iron<br />

1. Apply Smooth Ultime to damp hair.<br />

2. Blow-dry hair smooth using a round brush<br />

and reinforce style with a flat iron.<br />

3. Apply a generous amount of Mythic oil<br />

to the palms of the hands and work evenly<br />

throughout the style, followed by perfect<br />

Shimmer for a high shine finish.<br />

2a 2b


Eric lETURGIE<br />

(avignon, France).<br />

AnDREW MUlVEnnA<br />

(Belfast, United Kingdom).<br />

CharmING<br />

f<br />

iancé


321<br />

Cut<br />

valentin's<br />

1<br />

define tHe lengtH and<br />

tHe strong convex sHape<br />

of tHe perimeter<br />

Section the hair into 3 sections according to<br />

the diagram.<br />

crown & BeLow parietaL ridge<br />

1. After shampooing, apply Homme Brillantine<br />

evenly through the hair as a cutting agent.<br />

Using a razor, create a guide within the halo<br />

section, 3-4” in length.<br />

Look<br />

valentin's<br />

2<br />

design tHe back and<br />

tHen tHe sides<br />

2. Create a central vertical parting from the<br />

crown section down into the nape. Begin<br />

at the crown section, razor cut to the nape,<br />

creating coarse texture, and a tapered look.<br />

Use vertical subsections, and continue the<br />

tapered shape around from center to each<br />

side ending in the front hairline.<br />

1. In the palm of your hand, place several drops<br />

of L’Oréal <strong>Professionnel</strong> Homme Brillantine and<br />

work together between hands.<br />

2. Distribute evenly throughout the hair and<br />

blowdry with your hands to create direction<br />

and save the natural movement.<br />

3. Use L’Oréal <strong>Professionnel</strong> Homme wax to<br />

complete the style and add shine.<br />

3<br />

design tHe top<br />

aBoVe parietaL ridge<br />

3. Extend the guide from the crown to the<br />

front hairline using a central vertical parting.<br />

Use the razor to cut the hair square. Using<br />

your guide, work with vertical subsections<br />

to the right of the guide, then to the left until<br />

all hair is razored square. Finally, check the<br />

balance on each side.<br />

wHat do i need?<br />

Homme brillantine<br />

Homme wax<br />

Hairdryer<br />

fInd THE sTyLIng<br />

sTEP by sTEP VIdEO On<br />

www.lorealprofessionel.com<br />

fInd THE CuTTIng<br />

sTEP by sTEP VIdEO On<br />

www.lorealprofessionel.com


NÉo parISIeN<br />

a N T h o l o G Y<br />

Volume 1<br />

The 5 Golden Rules of Retailing<br />

1. Conduct an EXPERT SYSTEMATIC CLIENT CONSULTATION with every client, every<br />

visit. Your clients come to you with their hair problems; it’s up to you to diagnose the issue<br />

and prescribe the solution – after all, you wouldn’t expect to leave the doctor’s office<br />

without a prescription!<br />

2. DEMONSTRATE the product on the client at the stylist station, and show them how to<br />

use it themselves. Get into the habit of placing the product in the client’s hands, and<br />

explain how they would use it at home. Use a Key Phrase, such as:<br />

• In my professional opinion, this is what you need.<br />

• When you are at home, this is how you will use it.<br />

3. Don’t sell – EDUCATE! The biggest complaint clients have after a salon service is that<br />

they can’t produce the same results at home. Your clients want to know how and with<br />

which products you styled their hair. They want you to suggest professional products. If you<br />

don’t recommend it, they’ll buy it elsewhere, so why give the drugstores more business?<br />

4. RECOMMEND 3 products to every one of your clients. When you present 3 products,<br />

most people purchase at least 1!<br />

5. When a client says no, DON’T TAKE IT PERSONALLY! They are not rejecting you,<br />

they are saying they don’t need the recommended product. As a hairdresser, you have a<br />

responsibility to educate clients on what is best for them. Making them aware could lay the<br />

groundwork for a future purchase.


your complete<br />

lorÉal proFeSSIoNel<br />

styling toolbox<br />

LIGHT HOLD - STRENGTH 1-2<br />

brillantine<br />

polishing<br />

cream<br />

MEDIUM HOLD - STRENGTH 3-4<br />

sculpte<br />

sculpting<br />

fiber paste<br />

HIGH HOLD - STRENGTH 5-6<br />

clay<br />

strong hold<br />

clay<br />

nourishing oil<br />

for all hair types<br />

wax<br />

definition<br />

wax<br />

wet<br />

flexible,<br />

wet-effect<br />

gel<br />

strong<br />

strong hold<br />

gel<br />

color glow oil<br />

for color-treated<br />

hair<br />

mat<br />

matte<br />

sculpting<br />

pomade<br />

avaILabLE IN faLL 2012!<br />

rich oil<br />

for unruly hair<br />

reinforcing<br />

milky mist<br />

for all hair types<br />

fINE/LIMP TEXTURES<br />

smooth<br />

essence<br />

weightless<br />

smoother<br />

smooth<br />

velours<br />

smoothing<br />

lotion<br />

smooth<br />

ultime<br />

discipline<br />

crème<br />

fresh dust<br />

hair powder/<br />

dry shampoo<br />

densité<br />

thickening<br />

primer<br />

MEDIUM/THICK TEXTURES<br />

mousse<br />

volupté<br />

magnifying<br />

mousse<br />

gelée cashmere<br />

anti-frizz styling<br />

gelée<br />

infinium 2<br />

regular hold<br />

working spray<br />

volume<br />

élévation<br />

volumizing<br />

serum-gel<br />

lift extrême<br />

targeted<br />

weightlifting<br />

mousse<br />

COaRSE/REbELLIOUS TEXTURES<br />

aLL HaIR TYPES<br />

perfect<br />

shimmer<br />

shine<br />

illuminating<br />

mist<br />

infinium 3<br />

strong hold<br />

working spray<br />

expansion<br />

body activating<br />

mousse<br />

lumi contrôle<br />

modelling<br />

nutri-wax<br />

curl satin<br />

rich definition<br />

mousse<br />

infinium 4<br />

extreme hold<br />

finishing spray<br />

architexture<br />

matte defining<br />

paste<br />

or graphic<br />

golden<br />

modelling gel<br />

freezing mist<br />

traditional hard<br />

hold finishing spray<br />

curl corset<br />

energizing<br />

aqua-mousse


HEART HAND HEAD<br />

www.lorealpreofessionel-us.com<br />

U0752400

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