Cutting & Styling Guide - L'Oreal Professionnel - L'Oréal Professionnel
Cutting & Styling Guide - L'Oreal Professionnel - L'Oréal Professionnel Cutting & Styling Guide - L'Oreal Professionnel - L'Oréal Professionnel
HEART HAND HEAD Cutting & Styling Guide
- Page 2: Above: Filip Galas / Mark Woolley /
- Page 6: Mark Woolley (london, United Kingdo
- Page 10: LOOK 1 Before blowdrying, apply Smo
- Page 14: 4321 Cut lisa's 1 2 3 4 define tHe
- Page 18: Elefterios "lefty" kikeris (athens,
- Page 22: Cut ophélie's STYlInG dry for Ultr
- Page 26: 321 Cut valentin's 1 define tHe len
- Page 30: your complete lorÉal proFeSSIoNel
HEART HAND HEAD<br />
<strong>Cutting</strong> &<br />
<strong>Styling</strong> <strong>Guide</strong>
Above: Filip Galas / Mark Woolley / Andrew Mulvenna<br />
Below: Isabelle Lachance / Elefterios Kikeris / Eric Leturgie<br />
HEART HAND HEAD<br />
International Creation Team<br />
2012
HEART HAND HEAD<br />
by hairstylists<br />
for hairstylists<br />
From all over The world,<br />
where passion, talent, and<br />
community meet.<br />
What is H 3 ?<br />
HEART HAND HEAD<br />
H 3 is an international team of 6 hairstylists from different countries and cultures who share<br />
a common passion for creation and education.<br />
Every year, a creation team determines the cutting and styling trends and then passes<br />
them on all across the world to an international network of H3 Experts. In each country, a<br />
national team of H3 Experts share their passion for cutting and styling with thousands of<br />
<strong>L'Oréal</strong> <strong>Professionnel</strong> salons.<br />
The philosophy<br />
H 3 is a concept combining the Heart, Hand and Head.<br />
Heart - Inspire with passion<br />
Each H3 member is driven by a passion for the hairstyling profession, whether they are<br />
a member of the creation team, a national expert or a hairstylist taking part in a training<br />
seminar.<br />
Hand - Gain technical expertise<br />
Expertise, know-how and excellence in styling and cutting. The ability to create technical<br />
cuts or elegant, simple styles, driven by fashion and cultural trends. Controlling volume,<br />
movement and length. Mastering the tools for cutting and styling.<br />
Head - Develop your retail business<br />
Versatile haircuts, multiple looks, and the styling products to help clients achieve them.<br />
The H3 philosophy and technique will boost your bottom line with infinite retail sales<br />
opportunities.
Mark Woolley<br />
(london, United Kingdom).<br />
owner and Creative director of<br />
eleCTrIC haIrdreSSING loNdoN.<br />
mark runs an 80 stylist group based both in london<br />
and in Brighton. Specialized in editorial and<br />
photographic work, he collaborates with designers,<br />
musicians, photographers and other key media<br />
personalities. his vision of hair is based in simplicity<br />
and purity. he likes bold shapes that combine<br />
precision cutting and color to create a customized<br />
look that is strong but can be worn daily.<br />
mark simply but stunningly transforms the<br />
wearable "boudoir beauty" look into his more<br />
editorial "vanity" look.<br />
“I love our industry and I love education. I like nothing<br />
better than sharing our knowledge with an audience,<br />
sharing our creativity, and I love being part of H 3 . Just<br />
do it! You only get out what you put in so make sure you<br />
work damn hard to the best of your ability and do it with<br />
integrity, passion and strong vision.”<br />
BoUdoIr<br />
eauty<br />
B<br />
Vanity
321<br />
Cut<br />
Noémie's<br />
1 2 3<br />
define tHe lengtH and tHe<br />
strong concave sHape of<br />
tHe perimeter<br />
Sectioning<br />
Divide the hair into 4 sections according to<br />
the diagram.<br />
Fringe<br />
1. Create a central vertical parting from the<br />
crown to the nape. On the right side, use a<br />
diagonal forward parting, at natural fall, with 0<br />
degrees elevation, and cut parallel to the part.<br />
Repeat on left side. Use cut subsections as<br />
a stationary guide and continue to cut in the<br />
same manner, subsection by subsection, until<br />
reaching the crown.<br />
SideS<br />
2. Using diagonal forward subsections, overdirect<br />
the hair on each side back, over the<br />
shoulders, and cut to follow the stationary guide.<br />
define tHe sHape and<br />
lengtH of tHe fringe<br />
top<br />
3. Within the triangle section in the front,<br />
take a horizontal subsection at the front<br />
hairline, and establish your stationary guide<br />
for the fringe by cutting in the comb, with<br />
0 degrees elevation, parallel to the part.<br />
Continue with horizontal subsections until<br />
the fringe area is complete.<br />
laYerING<br />
encoUrage movement<br />
for tHe internal<br />
and external layered<br />
Create a central vertical section, from the front<br />
hairline to the crown, overdirect up, and cut<br />
square. Overdirect all hair above the parietal<br />
ridge, to the stationary guide, and cut square.<br />
Slice from the chin though the mid-lengths<br />
and ends in the front to create texture and<br />
release weight. Finally, check the balance on<br />
each side.<br />
fInd THE CuTTIng<br />
sTEP by sTEP VIdEO On<br />
www.lorealprofessionel-us.com
LOOK 1<br />
Before blowdrying, apply Smooth<br />
Velours evenly to mid-lengths and<br />
ends… then layer Mousse Volupté<br />
to add some texture.<br />
1. Dry the fringe, smooth and flat, using<br />
a paddle brush in a side to side action.<br />
2. Take horizontal "brush size"<br />
sections and dry the hair around a<br />
round brush to create polished and<br />
open curls.<br />
look 1<br />
fInd THE sTyLIng<br />
sTEP by sTEP VIdEO On<br />
www.lorealprofessionel-us.com<br />
1 3a<br />
4a 5<br />
2 3b<br />
4b<br />
3. When dry, leave the brush in<br />
each section. When cooled, "twist"<br />
the brush out of the section and<br />
place a pin curl.<br />
Looks<br />
Noémie's<br />
wHat do i need?<br />
smooth velours<br />
mousse volupté<br />
infinium 4<br />
Hairdryer<br />
Round brush<br />
Pins<br />
4. Use the same principle at the sides. 5. Release the hair from the pin<br />
curls. Tilt the client's head forward,<br />
then with your fingers or a paddle<br />
brush, brush through the hair forward<br />
from the nape. While the head is<br />
still forward, spray with infinium 4.<br />
Return to normal position, and rearrange<br />
the hair in what you feel is<br />
the proper style. Add more infinium 4<br />
as necessary.<br />
look 2<br />
fInd THE sTyLIng<br />
sTEP by sTEP VIdEO On<br />
www.lorealprofessionel-us.com<br />
LOOK 2<br />
Spray Fresh dust to prime hair and<br />
add density. Complete a straight<br />
blow dry with a round brush before<br />
starting the up do.<br />
1. Make a center parting from crown<br />
to nape. Before back combing, add<br />
a small amount of infinium 2 to<br />
increase grip and add texture. Back<br />
comb each side with maximum<br />
volume and rough texture. Then<br />
smooth out with a bristle brush<br />
keeping the volume.<br />
wHat do i need?<br />
fresh dust<br />
infinium 2<br />
infinium 4<br />
Hairdryer<br />
Round brush<br />
Pins<br />
1a 2<br />
1b 3<br />
1c 4<br />
2. Make a ponytail on both sides of<br />
the head, just behind the ear.<br />
3. Twist both ponytails into a bun<br />
shape on both sides retaining some<br />
of the rough texture to give an editorial<br />
feel and finish.<br />
4. Secure the buns with fine pins.<br />
5. Smooth out the fringe with a hot<br />
flat iron to create a small contrast in<br />
texture. Fix in place with infinium 4.
Isabelle lachance<br />
(montréal, Canada).<br />
Co-founder and creative director of<br />
oBlIC SaloNS and TorNade aCademY.<br />
a hard worker and devoted mother, Isabelle manages<br />
a group of 100 stylists and is passionate about<br />
sharing her knowledge with others.<br />
She often plays with asymmetry, geometry and<br />
a diversity of colors. her cutting style is always<br />
evolving and has been migrating towards a more<br />
editorial style.<br />
Isabelle will take you on a journey from pure<br />
and graphic lines to a more sensual and feminine<br />
style with uniquely formed curls.<br />
"Everything happens for a reason. Making people<br />
happy makes my day. I cannot stand pessimism!"<br />
art<br />
lover<br />
a F ShIoN<br />
ddict
4321<br />
Cut<br />
lisa's<br />
1 2 3 4<br />
define tHe lengtH and<br />
tHe strong convex sHape<br />
of tHe perimeter<br />
Section the hair into 4 sections according to<br />
the diagram.<br />
Back<br />
1. Create a central vertical parting from the<br />
crown to the nape. On the right side, use a<br />
diagonal back parting, at natural fall, with 0<br />
degrees elevation, and cut parallel to the part.<br />
Repeat on left side. Use cut subsections as<br />
a stationary guide and continue to cut in the<br />
same manner, subsection by subsection, until<br />
reaching the crown.<br />
SideS<br />
Using diagonal back subsections, overdirect<br />
the hair on each side back, over the shoulders,<br />
and cut to follow the stationary guide.<br />
crown, top, and Fringe<br />
2. All hair in the crown section is overdirected<br />
forward and the length for the internal layering<br />
is established by cutting the hair square.<br />
create tHe internal<br />
layering at tHe front<br />
3. The remaining hair in the top section is<br />
combed into the guide, overdiected forward,<br />
and cut following your guide.<br />
create tHe asymmetric<br />
fringe<br />
Fringe<br />
4. Subdivide the top section into three<br />
subsections. Begin by twisting and slicing<br />
the first section, overdirecting with a strong<br />
angle. Use the same technique and blend the<br />
next two subsections together to create the<br />
asymmetric fringe.<br />
fInd THE CuTTIng<br />
sTEP by sTEP VIdEO On<br />
www.lorealprofessionel-us.com
Looks<br />
lisa's<br />
look 1<br />
fInd THE sTyLIng<br />
sTEP by sTEP VIdEO On<br />
www.lorealprofessionel-us.com<br />
wHat do i need?<br />
smooth velours<br />
mythic oil<br />
Hairdryer<br />
Round brush<br />
1a<br />
1b<br />
Look 1<br />
1. Apply a small amount of Smooth<br />
Velours to damp hair. Dry and style<br />
your hair using a round brush. Do not<br />
elevate the roots to create volume.<br />
2. Finish with Mythic oil to add shine<br />
and movement.<br />
look 2<br />
fInd THE sTyLIng<br />
sTEP by sTEP VIdEO On<br />
www.lorealprofessionel-us.com<br />
2a<br />
2b<br />
2c<br />
3<br />
wHat do i need?<br />
fresh dust<br />
infinium 2<br />
infinium 3<br />
Hairdryer and "2 inch" curling iron<br />
flat brush and round brush<br />
LOOK 2<br />
1. Apply Fresh Dust section by<br />
section at the roots. Start with a flat<br />
brush for volume at the roots and<br />
finish with a round brush to give a<br />
sensual and curved shape.<br />
3. Use a 2 inch curling iron to create<br />
big curls or waves depending on hair<br />
length and density. Spray Infinium 2<br />
on each section to add hold.<br />
3. Finish with a light mist of Infinium 3<br />
to define and separate the curl pattern<br />
and the overall shape.
Elefterios "lefty" kikeris<br />
(athens, Greece).<br />
owner and art director of<br />
TelIS KIKerIS CompaNY<br />
lefty manages 200 stylists in 24 salons and one<br />
academy in athens. he is a natural craftsman of hair.<br />
He loves soft shapes and seamless finishes. He also<br />
appreciates geometry and believes that haircutting<br />
and styling should combine both symmetric and<br />
asymmetric structures. he prefers to keep hairdressing<br />
simple but never boring or monotonous.<br />
lefty focuses on how to make the most of<br />
simplicity with two dramatically opposite looks<br />
out of one smart cut.<br />
“Don’t do the things right, do the right things. Education<br />
is the key. Learn as much as you can because there are no<br />
limits in knowledge and progress.”<br />
F a ShIoN<br />
ddict<br />
vening<br />
INTrIGUe
Cut<br />
ophélie's<br />
21<br />
CUT<br />
create tHe base<br />
of tHe cUt<br />
Sectioning<br />
Section the hair into 2 sections according to<br />
the diagram.<br />
BeLow parietaL ridge<br />
1. Create a length guide around the parietal<br />
ridge. Starting from the temple, and working<br />
to the center of the back, overdirect the hair out<br />
from the head shape to retain perimeter length<br />
while cutting parallel to the vertical subsection.<br />
Repeat on opposite side.<br />
zonE 1 - Executed with scissors<br />
➟ STYlInG ➟<br />
dry to get Hair flat<br />
and smootH<br />
2. Blow-dry hair smoothly and completely.<br />
refine tHe textUre<br />
3. Refine haircut by point cutting through the<br />
perimeter and shaping the baseline.<br />
aBoVe parietaL ridge<br />
Release the section above the parietal ridge<br />
and blend with the hair below using point<br />
cutting. Finally, check the balance on each side.<br />
WET<br />
DRY
Cut<br />
ophélie's<br />
STYlInG<br />
dry for Ultra flat,<br />
smootH Hair<br />
1. dry the hair using a round brush and<br />
work with the natural direction.<br />
use a straightening iron to add shine,<br />
reduce volume even more and refine the<br />
curve of the global shape.<br />
zonE 2 - Executed with razor<br />
➟<br />
CUT<br />
➟<br />
on dry hair<br />
create tHe disconnected<br />
concave bob<br />
2. using the razor, layer the top section<br />
but leave it longer to have an undercut<br />
feel. Overdirect every section slightly back<br />
in order to keep some lenght in the front.<br />
CUT fInISh<br />
on dry hair<br />
refine tHe oUtline sHape<br />
3. finally, create the outline using the<br />
razor as a "pen" and tiping to the hair to<br />
refine the shape.<br />
fInd THE CuTTIng<br />
sTEP by sTEP VIdEO On<br />
www.lorealprofessionel-us.com<br />
look 1<br />
look 2<br />
fInd THE sTyLIng<br />
sTEP by sTEP VIdEO On<br />
www.lorealprofessionel-us.com<br />
Looks<br />
ophélie's<br />
1. Apply Fresh dust, followed by curl Satin,<br />
and blow-dry hair while lifting at the roots<br />
throughout the interior of the style.<br />
2. Use a flat iron to create uplift at the roots<br />
and waves through the hair ends.<br />
3. Complete the style with Freezing Mist for<br />
firm hold.<br />
2 3a 3b<br />
wHat do i need?<br />
smooth Ultime<br />
mythic oil<br />
perfect shimmer<br />
Hairdryer and a round brush<br />
flat iron<br />
wHat do i need?<br />
fresh dust<br />
curl satin<br />
freezing mist<br />
Hairdryer and a round brush<br />
flat iron<br />
1. Apply Smooth Ultime to damp hair.<br />
2. Blow-dry hair smooth using a round brush<br />
and reinforce style with a flat iron.<br />
3. Apply a generous amount of Mythic oil<br />
to the palms of the hands and work evenly<br />
throughout the style, followed by perfect<br />
Shimmer for a high shine finish.<br />
2a 2b
Eric lETURGIE<br />
(avignon, France).<br />
AnDREW MUlVEnnA<br />
(Belfast, United Kingdom).<br />
CharmING<br />
f<br />
iancé
321<br />
Cut<br />
valentin's<br />
1<br />
define tHe lengtH and<br />
tHe strong convex sHape<br />
of tHe perimeter<br />
Section the hair into 3 sections according to<br />
the diagram.<br />
crown & BeLow parietaL ridge<br />
1. After shampooing, apply Homme Brillantine<br />
evenly through the hair as a cutting agent.<br />
Using a razor, create a guide within the halo<br />
section, 3-4” in length.<br />
Look<br />
valentin's<br />
2<br />
design tHe back and<br />
tHen tHe sides<br />
2. Create a central vertical parting from the<br />
crown section down into the nape. Begin<br />
at the crown section, razor cut to the nape,<br />
creating coarse texture, and a tapered look.<br />
Use vertical subsections, and continue the<br />
tapered shape around from center to each<br />
side ending in the front hairline.<br />
1. In the palm of your hand, place several drops<br />
of L’Oréal <strong>Professionnel</strong> Homme Brillantine and<br />
work together between hands.<br />
2. Distribute evenly throughout the hair and<br />
blowdry with your hands to create direction<br />
and save the natural movement.<br />
3. Use L’Oréal <strong>Professionnel</strong> Homme wax to<br />
complete the style and add shine.<br />
3<br />
design tHe top<br />
aBoVe parietaL ridge<br />
3. Extend the guide from the crown to the<br />
front hairline using a central vertical parting.<br />
Use the razor to cut the hair square. Using<br />
your guide, work with vertical subsections<br />
to the right of the guide, then to the left until<br />
all hair is razored square. Finally, check the<br />
balance on each side.<br />
wHat do i need?<br />
Homme brillantine<br />
Homme wax<br />
Hairdryer<br />
fInd THE sTyLIng<br />
sTEP by sTEP VIdEO On<br />
www.lorealprofessionel.com<br />
fInd THE CuTTIng<br />
sTEP by sTEP VIdEO On<br />
www.lorealprofessionel.com
NÉo parISIeN<br />
a N T h o l o G Y<br />
Volume 1<br />
The 5 Golden Rules of Retailing<br />
1. Conduct an EXPERT SYSTEMATIC CLIENT CONSULTATION with every client, every<br />
visit. Your clients come to you with their hair problems; it’s up to you to diagnose the issue<br />
and prescribe the solution – after all, you wouldn’t expect to leave the doctor’s office<br />
without a prescription!<br />
2. DEMONSTRATE the product on the client at the stylist station, and show them how to<br />
use it themselves. Get into the habit of placing the product in the client’s hands, and<br />
explain how they would use it at home. Use a Key Phrase, such as:<br />
• In my professional opinion, this is what you need.<br />
• When you are at home, this is how you will use it.<br />
3. Don’t sell – EDUCATE! The biggest complaint clients have after a salon service is that<br />
they can’t produce the same results at home. Your clients want to know how and with<br />
which products you styled their hair. They want you to suggest professional products. If you<br />
don’t recommend it, they’ll buy it elsewhere, so why give the drugstores more business?<br />
4. RECOMMEND 3 products to every one of your clients. When you present 3 products,<br />
most people purchase at least 1!<br />
5. When a client says no, DON’T TAKE IT PERSONALLY! They are not rejecting you,<br />
they are saying they don’t need the recommended product. As a hairdresser, you have a<br />
responsibility to educate clients on what is best for them. Making them aware could lay the<br />
groundwork for a future purchase.
your complete<br />
lorÉal proFeSSIoNel<br />
styling toolbox<br />
LIGHT HOLD - STRENGTH 1-2<br />
brillantine<br />
polishing<br />
cream<br />
MEDIUM HOLD - STRENGTH 3-4<br />
sculpte<br />
sculpting<br />
fiber paste<br />
HIGH HOLD - STRENGTH 5-6<br />
clay<br />
strong hold<br />
clay<br />
nourishing oil<br />
for all hair types<br />
wax<br />
definition<br />
wax<br />
wet<br />
flexible,<br />
wet-effect<br />
gel<br />
strong<br />
strong hold<br />
gel<br />
color glow oil<br />
for color-treated<br />
hair<br />
mat<br />
matte<br />
sculpting<br />
pomade<br />
avaILabLE IN faLL 2012!<br />
rich oil<br />
for unruly hair<br />
reinforcing<br />
milky mist<br />
for all hair types<br />
fINE/LIMP TEXTURES<br />
smooth<br />
essence<br />
weightless<br />
smoother<br />
smooth<br />
velours<br />
smoothing<br />
lotion<br />
smooth<br />
ultime<br />
discipline<br />
crème<br />
fresh dust<br />
hair powder/<br />
dry shampoo<br />
densité<br />
thickening<br />
primer<br />
MEDIUM/THICK TEXTURES<br />
mousse<br />
volupté<br />
magnifying<br />
mousse<br />
gelée cashmere<br />
anti-frizz styling<br />
gelée<br />
infinium 2<br />
regular hold<br />
working spray<br />
volume<br />
élévation<br />
volumizing<br />
serum-gel<br />
lift extrême<br />
targeted<br />
weightlifting<br />
mousse<br />
COaRSE/REbELLIOUS TEXTURES<br />
aLL HaIR TYPES<br />
perfect<br />
shimmer<br />
shine<br />
illuminating<br />
mist<br />
infinium 3<br />
strong hold<br />
working spray<br />
expansion<br />
body activating<br />
mousse<br />
lumi contrôle<br />
modelling<br />
nutri-wax<br />
curl satin<br />
rich definition<br />
mousse<br />
infinium 4<br />
extreme hold<br />
finishing spray<br />
architexture<br />
matte defining<br />
paste<br />
or graphic<br />
golden<br />
modelling gel<br />
freezing mist<br />
traditional hard<br />
hold finishing spray<br />
curl corset<br />
energizing<br />
aqua-mousse
HEART HAND HEAD<br />
www.lorealpreofessionel-us.com<br />
U0752400