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1977<br />

Response to<br />

the Quartz<br />

Crisis<br />

CALIBER L990<br />

It took courage to launch a new<br />

automatic caliber in 1977. Aer two<br />

years of research and development<br />

work, Longines presented the ‘E’<br />

caliber family, which was later renamed<br />

L990. Just 2.95 millimeters<br />

thick, it was the world’s slimmest<br />

movement with two barrels and automatic<br />

winding via a central rotor.<br />

Its most notable characteristic was a<br />

pair of serially arranged barrels that<br />

had made their debut in automatic<br />

Caliber L890 in 1975. e energy<br />

and rotational speeds of the two<br />

barrels combined to produce a 44hour<br />

power reserve. e comparatively<br />

quickly turning mainsprings<br />

had lower torques: this signicantly<br />

reduced the force exerted on the<br />

gear train while at the same time<br />

achieving superior performance.<br />

84 | WatchTime LONGINES SPECIAL<br />

is solution made it possible to<br />

lower the transmission ratio of the<br />

train between the rotor and the barrels,<br />

while also enabling the engineers<br />

to eliminate one gear and to<br />

reduce both the weight and the<br />

thickness of the ball-borne rotor.<br />

anks to the simplicity of its architecture,<br />

the entire self-winding<br />

assembly could be positioned below<br />

the barrel bridge as an integral<br />

component of the movement. ere<br />

were four caliber versions: L990<br />

with central seconds and date display;<br />

L992 with central seconds but<br />

without a date display; L993 with<br />

date display but without a secondhand;<br />

and L994 with hands only for<br />

hours and minutes. Breguet, which<br />

like Longines is part of the Swatch<br />

Group, now owns rights of this caliber,<br />

to which it has given a silicon<br />

escapement and the name “591A.”<br />

1979<br />

Paper-in<br />

GOLDEN LEAF<br />

Japanese watch companies seized the<br />

lead from the Swiss in the development<br />

of thin electronic movements in<br />

1978. Longines, a pioneer in the world<br />

of quartz watches, refused to take this<br />

lying down, so the brand joined with<br />

its sister company ETA and other<br />

members of the Allgemeine Schweizerische<br />

Uhren AG (ASUAG) to<br />

launch an ambitious project called<br />

“Delirium.” The goal was not only to<br />

break records, but also to overcome<br />

the severe crisis that faced<br />

the Swiss watch industry<br />

at the time.<br />

Longines’s management<br />

celebrated a<br />

spectacular success<br />

on January 12,<br />

1979, when it introduced<br />

the world’s<br />

slimmest quartz<br />

wristwatch with an<br />

analog time display<br />

and an overall height<br />

of just 1.98 millimeters.<br />

The brand launched<br />

this timepiece under the<br />

appealing name, Golden<br />

Leaf. The technicians<br />

who created its movement,<br />

Caliber L795.2, had radically<br />

departed from conventional<br />

principles of construction. The<br />

case’s back doubled as its base<br />

plate. After assembling the<br />

movement and inserting the<br />

hands, watchmakers needed only<br />

to install the bezel and the crystal<br />

above the dial. The hands could be<br />

reset by pressing a little button in the<br />

back of the slender, golden case.<br />

WWW.WATCHTIME.COM

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