2011 - Europe Direct Iasi

EUROINVENT 2011
4.17.
Correlatives and complementary experimental models
Title
for the development of antiageing dermatocosmetic
product
Authors Laura Olariu Brandusa Dumitriu
Institution SC Biotehnos SA
Patent no. pending
Description
Despite the exponential develop of cosmetics with
pharmaceutical activity, appropriates methods to quantify the
effects are not yet established.
The anti-ageing claim is a widespread effect for many skin care
products, but usually a few test were done to scientific prove this
action. We assist to an aggressive publicity which sometimes is
not based on relevant investigations concerning the ingredients
toxicity /efficacy profile, the cosmetic legislation being still
permissive from this point of view. We design an assembly of
instrumental methods, comparative and correlative, oriented to
prove the ANTIAGEING effect and the specific target action of
an ingredient: fibroblasts proliferative status, intracellular
Calcium mobilization, molecular basis for changes in collagen
homeostasis (TGF-beta modulation), cellular oxidative stress.
We create an algorithm of dermatocosmetic testing procedure
starting with cellular investigative techniques, representative for
skin disorders and having an end point at the final products
formulation based on cellular changes induced by
phytocompounds.
Therefore, as an application, we define on molecular basis the
therapeutic target of three compounds isolated from indigene
medicinal plant: one could be an effective agent for wound
healing (matrix remodeling action, controlling fibrosis), the
others two acting as catalysts of structural proteins synthesis,
important in chronological ageing.
The implementation of a skin functional parameters scanning in
respect of the active ingredients action will have a deep impact
in the quality of final product formulation, a better treatment
scheme for dermatological dysfunctions and rising
performances for the new skin care anti-ageing ingredients –
one of the main targets of “POS CCE ID 383 SMIS CSNR 6009
CTR 107/2010” project
Class 4
72