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Fiji, Land of Friendy People and Beautiful Cruising Grounds continued
“The sparkle of the night sky
persuades you to believe
there are no worries in the
world. It is a place where
just by being there is an
euphoric experience.
”
the incoming channel. Even at high tide
we had only inches to spare beneath our
2.4 metre keel. Docks? When had we last
been to a dock?
From the city wharf in Tahiti, we had
visited the French Polynesian Islands,
Mourea, Huanine, Raiatea, Bora Bora and
tied our stern to a deep cement wall in
the small fishing boat harbour in
Rarotonga, Cook Islands. With only
moorings available in Niue and Tonga,
it had been several months since we had
seen the luxury of a dock.
A number of Blue Water Rally members
had arrived before us, their boats tide
stern-to just footsteps from the Four Dollar
Bar. Their circumnavigation schedule
allowed them to stay three weeks in the
cove. As for us, this was where we said
our goodbyes. Not only were we taking a
leave from the boat to return to Toronto,
but upon our return our plans were to
spend more time exploring the southern
portion of the South Pacific than the rally
schedule would allow.
The following spring, after completing our
leave in Toronto, we returned to Musket
Cove. A coup had taken place since our
leave and the new self proclaimed
president, Commadore Voreqe Bainimarma,
promised a cleaner government. All we
know is that we obtained our new cruising
permit very quickly without the need to
grease any palms.
We fully expected to drive the boat out of
the storage hurricane hole and turn the bow
towards the outward islands in quest of new
adventure. Our good intentions however
were marred by the knowledge that the
annual sailing regatta was soon to take
place at the Cove, a regatta that after 27
years continues to attract reuniting sailing
friends from around the world. One older
couple from New Zealand had just made
their 10th crossing to attend this year’s
regatta and later in the week when they
held a wet t-shirt contest, she was front and
centre with a bevy of others males. With
great hesitancy, we deferred our departure
and stayed on for the events. It was one of
the best decisions we ever made.
Musket Cove is a haven for sailors passing
through the tropical South Pacific. Often after
arriving in such a welcoming haven, some
never really venture far, perhaps a circuit to
Tonga, New Zealand and back, but always
back. Here at the Cove you will find
yachtsman from all over the world and I have
heard it said by those who have already
completed a circumnavigation and returned
to the Cove for a second time, that the Cove
is a unique place in the world for sailors.
It may surprise you to know that sailors
are not always welcomed to drop anchor
at every resort. In all fairness, we tend to
be a casual lot, often not possessing
resort wear and can appear, well, unkempt
at times. OK, we can look downright
scruffy, so there I’ve said it.