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OWNER REPORT<br />
great autumn<br />
migration of boats<br />
from Europe to<br />
INthe<br />
the Caribbean,<br />
many yachts pass close to the<br />
Cape Verde Islands in their bid to<br />
reach the trade winds as quickly<br />
as possible. A few stop briefly in<br />
Mindelo or Palmeira for fuel and<br />
provisions, while only a tiny<br />
number make an effort to cruise<br />
these islands. The great majority<br />
miss out on the tremendous<br />
opportunities that these islands<br />
offer for cruising with a<br />
distinctively different flavour.<br />
22 www.oystermarine.com<br />
CAPE VERDE ISLANDS<br />
Santo Antao<br />
Fogo<br />
Boa VIsta<br />
Praia<br />
Dakar<br />
AFRICA<br />
Freetown<br />
cape verdean<br />
I N T E R L U D E<br />
BY STEPHEN THOMAS OYSTER 66 MAGIC DRAGON<br />
Although we had wanted to include them in our itinerary on our last<br />
Transatlantic in 1995 we had eventually, but reluctantly, decided to stay<br />
with the pack and press on with the passage. In 2003 we decided to<br />
take a more circuitous route to the Caribbean via Brazil, thus taking us<br />
directly past the Cape Verdes, and this time we set aside the time to<br />
visit the islands properly; a decision we were not to regret.<br />
Geographically the islands are very similar to a hotter version of the Canaries, but lying 650 miles<br />
SSW of them. Of the ten major islands, the western islands are mostly mountainous and green,<br />
while the eastern islands are hotter, drier and flatter. Independent of Portugal since 1975, their<br />
consequent exclusion from the EU has caused severe economic difficulties and the nation has<br />
been more closely allied to the West African countries of Guinea-Bissau and Senegal than with<br />
Europe. Many Portuguese left at the time of independence, so the islands now have a largely<br />
West African cultural heritage. Significant financial support comes from the many<br />
Cape Verdeans who have migrated to the USA particularly from Brava, which<br />
had close links with the US whaling industry. The official language is<br />
Portuguese, although most local people use Creole as their dayto-day<br />
language. English is rarely spoken.<br />
Approaching from the NE, we had the choice of Palmeira<br />
(on Sal) or Mindelo (on Sao Vicente) as ports of entry.<br />
We chose Palmeira and, although the major navigational<br />
lights were not working, the periodic illumination of the<br />
airport landing lights provided a reassuring confirmation<br />
of the island’s presence after our fast run down the trade<br />
winds from La Gomera. Palmeira harbour is<br />
straightforward and secure, although the presence of a<br />
couple of wrecks in mid-harbour is, perhaps,<br />
discouraging! Anchoring alongside about twenty other<br />
(mostly French) cruising yachts, the entry procedure was<br />
quickly completed by the friendly port captain, although<br />
immigration clearance required a quick trip to the<br />
international airport five miles away at Espargos in one of the