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The Electrical experimenter

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38 THE ELECTRICAL EXPERIMENTER May, 1917<br />

SEVERAL<br />

years ago the author of this<br />

article had occasion to work up an illumination<br />

scheme for a small two-wheel<br />

sulky and harness to be used in a stage act.<br />

Owing to the fact that the horse in this<br />

act performed many difficult tricks, with<br />

the result that the sulky was pitched at<br />

Appearance of <strong>Electrical</strong>ly Illuminated Stage<br />

Sulky and Harness.<br />

many different angles and also for other<br />

reasons, storage batteries were not allowable.<br />

<strong>The</strong> scheme shown diagrammatically<br />

herewith was successfully developed and<br />

applied and the results were very satisfactory,<br />

particularly when the display of the<br />

illuminated harness and vehicle was shown<br />

on a darkened stage before black velvet<br />

drop curtains.<br />

Briefly considered, the battery comprised<br />

36 dry cells of standard size, connected in<br />

series-parallel to give 18 volts. <strong>The</strong> feed<br />

wires in the battery box, which was painted<br />

white to correspond with the trimmings of<br />

the balance of the vehicle and placed beneath<br />

the seat, were led to the various circuits<br />

about the sulky body and wheels and<br />

also to the harness.<br />

<strong>The</strong> harness display consisted of a number<br />

of 16 volt battery lamps connected on<br />

parallel, the terminal wires ending in a<br />

separable connector, so that it could be instantly<br />

detached from the vehicle when desired.<br />

A small switch placed in one of the main<br />

battery leads and arranged on the side of<br />

the seat frame, enabled the driver to switch<br />

on the lights at the critical moment when<br />

the stage had lieen properly darkened.<br />

Rear View of Sulky Showing the Battery Box and Control<br />

Switch Within Easy Reach of the Driver.<br />

One of the most difficult problems was<br />

to convey the current properly to the rotating<br />

lamp strips secured to the spokes<br />

of the wheels. This was accomplisht by<br />

means of two brushes and a two ring<br />

commutator fitted to the side of each<br />

wheel.<br />

<strong>The</strong> commutator disk was made of fiber<br />

and not more than 9 inches in diameter so<br />

An Illuminated Stage Sulky<br />

By HARRY S. TOWNSEND<br />

that it would be unnoticeable to those in<br />

the audience. <strong>The</strong> rear (.facing the audience;<br />

side of the disk was painted white,<br />

the same as the wheels.<br />

Three si.xteen volt lamps were placed<br />

on every other spoke and several lamps<br />

were also secured to the fiber disk on its<br />

rear face so as to form a circle in conjunction<br />

with the inner lamps of the spoke<br />

strips. Lamps were also spaced in between,<br />

around the rims of the wheels, as<br />

seen in the illustration.<br />

A detail of the round woven-wire<br />

brushes and brush holders is given in the<br />

illustration. <strong>The</strong> wiring was done with<br />

Xo. 14 rubber covered conductor for the<br />

main battery leads, and with Xo. 16 R.C.<br />

fixture wire for the independent circuits.<br />

This arrangement, as will be observed<br />

by the reader, does away entireh" with<br />

the nuisance of a trailing stage cable,<br />

which many electrical acts are burdened<br />

with. Altho not shown here, the various<br />

circuits were specially arranged so as to<br />

permit grouping into series—parallel on<br />

110 volt lighting circuits when the occasion<br />

demanded. This required 4 contact rings<br />

and 4 brushes on each wheel, also a special<br />

disposition of the harness and \ehicle<br />

circuits.<br />

HOW TO MAKE CARDBOARD<br />

CYLINDERS,<br />

Those radio-bugs who construct their<br />

ow n loose couplers and loading inductances<br />

are generally hampered by not being able<br />

to construct suitable forms on which to<br />

wind the wire. <strong>The</strong> following method I<br />

have found satisfactory and it takes but a<br />

few minutes to construct a serviceable<br />

tube of any desired size and thickness.<br />

Having the plugs of the desired diameter<br />

ready, cut ott a strip of thin cardboard slightly<br />

greater in width than the required length<br />

of tlie tube to be made. Xow lay the cardboard<br />

on the table and proceed to roll the<br />

plugs. After making one revolution spread<br />

glue liberally over the remaining part and<br />

finish rolling it up. If the tube is not as<br />

thick as desired, another strip of cardboard<br />

can be wound over the first. It is well not<br />

to have the tube fit too tightlv over plugs,<br />

or trouble will be experienced<br />

with shrinkage<br />

during further treatment.<br />

<strong>The</strong> tube is now wound<br />

with tape or cord and<br />

placed in a moderately<br />

hot oven for fifteen minutes<br />

or more.<br />

.\fter removing from<br />

oven, trim edges carefully<br />

and while still hot give it<br />

a thoro coating of orange<br />

shellac inside and out.<br />

While the shellac is still<br />

fresh, take your blow<br />

torch and with a sweeping<br />

movenent burn the shellac<br />

into the tube and repeat<br />

the process. It is<br />

well to make sure you are<br />

using pure shellac, not<br />

cheap glue, as some socalh'd<br />

shellacs are (I<br />

make my own shellac out<br />

of orange shellac flakes<br />

dissolved in grain alcohoO. If you do not<br />

have a blow torch handy, a good heating in<br />

the oven will do altho it requires more time.<br />

<strong>The</strong> appearance of the tube is greatly improved<br />

by blackenine the ends. .-\ thin<br />

paste made up of hlack aniline dve. dissolved<br />

in white shellac, gives a glossy black.<br />

.\ black looking luster can be made of lampblack<br />

mixed with orange shellac. <strong>The</strong> for-<br />

n.er is preferable, having better insulating<br />

qualities than the latter.<br />

.\ little experience in tube making will<br />

soon make you proficient in the art. .\t a<br />

•II ' t nac't -Sly'<br />

Details of Sulky Wheels and the Metal Contact<br />

Rings and Brushes Whereby Current Is<br />

Conducted to the Lights on the Spokes.<br />

small cost moisture proof tubes can be made<br />

quickly, saving valuable time in waiting.<br />

Contributed by<br />

CHARLES M. FITZGERALD.<br />

HOW TO FROST LAMPS QUICKLY.<br />

Take tiie bulb and smear over thoroly<br />

with a good library paste: after which dip<br />

into a cup of sugar or salt crystals. <strong>The</strong>n<br />

let stand for awhile. Do not use glue for<br />

an adhesive as t^iis has a tendency to dissolve<br />

the salt or sugar.<br />

Contributed by JOHX T. DWYER.<br />

TO USE OLD BATTERY ZINCS.<br />

\\ lien tlie lower half of a battery zinc is<br />

eaten away by the action of the electrolyte,<br />

the remaining portion can be utilized by suspending<br />

it from a wire, so that the zinc is<br />

covered by the battery solution.<br />

.\ very good electrical connection should<br />

be made between the wire and the zinc and<br />

the joint covered with melted paraffin. This<br />

wiring Diagram for 36 Dry Cell Battery and<br />

Various Lamp Circuits on the Sulky and<br />

Harness.<br />

last precaution is necessary as otherwise<br />

corrosion would soon occur from the action<br />

of the salammoniac or other chemical. <strong>The</strong><br />

wire may he held at the top of th* jar by<br />

twisting around a small piece of wood.<br />

Contributed by K. M. COGGESHALL.

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