The Electrical experimenter
The Electrical experimenter
The Electrical experimenter
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38 THE ELECTRICAL EXPERIMENTER May, 1917<br />
SEVERAL<br />
years ago the author of this<br />
article had occasion to work up an illumination<br />
scheme for a small two-wheel<br />
sulky and harness to be used in a stage act.<br />
Owing to the fact that the horse in this<br />
act performed many difficult tricks, with<br />
the result that the sulky was pitched at<br />
Appearance of <strong>Electrical</strong>ly Illuminated Stage<br />
Sulky and Harness.<br />
many different angles and also for other<br />
reasons, storage batteries were not allowable.<br />
<strong>The</strong> scheme shown diagrammatically<br />
herewith was successfully developed and<br />
applied and the results were very satisfactory,<br />
particularly when the display of the<br />
illuminated harness and vehicle was shown<br />
on a darkened stage before black velvet<br />
drop curtains.<br />
Briefly considered, the battery comprised<br />
36 dry cells of standard size, connected in<br />
series-parallel to give 18 volts. <strong>The</strong> feed<br />
wires in the battery box, which was painted<br />
white to correspond with the trimmings of<br />
the balance of the vehicle and placed beneath<br />
the seat, were led to the various circuits<br />
about the sulky body and wheels and<br />
also to the harness.<br />
<strong>The</strong> harness display consisted of a number<br />
of 16 volt battery lamps connected on<br />
parallel, the terminal wires ending in a<br />
separable connector, so that it could be instantly<br />
detached from the vehicle when desired.<br />
A small switch placed in one of the main<br />
battery leads and arranged on the side of<br />
the seat frame, enabled the driver to switch<br />
on the lights at the critical moment when<br />
the stage had lieen properly darkened.<br />
Rear View of Sulky Showing the Battery Box and Control<br />
Switch Within Easy Reach of the Driver.<br />
One of the most difficult problems was<br />
to convey the current properly to the rotating<br />
lamp strips secured to the spokes<br />
of the wheels. This was accomplisht by<br />
means of two brushes and a two ring<br />
commutator fitted to the side of each<br />
wheel.<br />
<strong>The</strong> commutator disk was made of fiber<br />
and not more than 9 inches in diameter so<br />
An Illuminated Stage Sulky<br />
By HARRY S. TOWNSEND<br />
that it would be unnoticeable to those in<br />
the audience. <strong>The</strong> rear (.facing the audience;<br />
side of the disk was painted white,<br />
the same as the wheels.<br />
Three si.xteen volt lamps were placed<br />
on every other spoke and several lamps<br />
were also secured to the fiber disk on its<br />
rear face so as to form a circle in conjunction<br />
with the inner lamps of the spoke<br />
strips. Lamps were also spaced in between,<br />
around the rims of the wheels, as<br />
seen in the illustration.<br />
A detail of the round woven-wire<br />
brushes and brush holders is given in the<br />
illustration. <strong>The</strong> wiring was done with<br />
Xo. 14 rubber covered conductor for the<br />
main battery leads, and with Xo. 16 R.C.<br />
fixture wire for the independent circuits.<br />
This arrangement, as will be observed<br />
by the reader, does away entireh" with<br />
the nuisance of a trailing stage cable,<br />
which many electrical acts are burdened<br />
with. Altho not shown here, the various<br />
circuits were specially arranged so as to<br />
permit grouping into series—parallel on<br />
110 volt lighting circuits when the occasion<br />
demanded. This required 4 contact rings<br />
and 4 brushes on each wheel, also a special<br />
disposition of the harness and \ehicle<br />
circuits.<br />
HOW TO MAKE CARDBOARD<br />
CYLINDERS,<br />
Those radio-bugs who construct their<br />
ow n loose couplers and loading inductances<br />
are generally hampered by not being able<br />
to construct suitable forms on which to<br />
wind the wire. <strong>The</strong> following method I<br />
have found satisfactory and it takes but a<br />
few minutes to construct a serviceable<br />
tube of any desired size and thickness.<br />
Having the plugs of the desired diameter<br />
ready, cut ott a strip of thin cardboard slightly<br />
greater in width than the required length<br />
of tlie tube to be made. Xow lay the cardboard<br />
on the table and proceed to roll the<br />
plugs. After making one revolution spread<br />
glue liberally over the remaining part and<br />
finish rolling it up. If the tube is not as<br />
thick as desired, another strip of cardboard<br />
can be wound over the first. It is well not<br />
to have the tube fit too tightlv over plugs,<br />
or trouble will be experienced<br />
with shrinkage<br />
during further treatment.<br />
<strong>The</strong> tube is now wound<br />
with tape or cord and<br />
placed in a moderately<br />
hot oven for fifteen minutes<br />
or more.<br />
.\fter removing from<br />
oven, trim edges carefully<br />
and while still hot give it<br />
a thoro coating of orange<br />
shellac inside and out.<br />
While the shellac is still<br />
fresh, take your blow<br />
torch and with a sweeping<br />
movenent burn the shellac<br />
into the tube and repeat<br />
the process. It is<br />
well to make sure you are<br />
using pure shellac, not<br />
cheap glue, as some socalh'd<br />
shellacs are (I<br />
make my own shellac out<br />
of orange shellac flakes<br />
dissolved in grain alcohoO. If you do not<br />
have a blow torch handy, a good heating in<br />
the oven will do altho it requires more time.<br />
<strong>The</strong> appearance of the tube is greatly improved<br />
by blackenine the ends. .-\ thin<br />
paste made up of hlack aniline dve. dissolved<br />
in white shellac, gives a glossy black.<br />
.\ black looking luster can be made of lampblack<br />
mixed with orange shellac. <strong>The</strong> for-<br />
n.er is preferable, having better insulating<br />
qualities than the latter.<br />
.\ little experience in tube making will<br />
soon make you proficient in the art. .\t a<br />
•II ' t nac't -Sly'<br />
Details of Sulky Wheels and the Metal Contact<br />
Rings and Brushes Whereby Current Is<br />
Conducted to the Lights on the Spokes.<br />
small cost moisture proof tubes can be made<br />
quickly, saving valuable time in waiting.<br />
Contributed by<br />
CHARLES M. FITZGERALD.<br />
HOW TO FROST LAMPS QUICKLY.<br />
Take tiie bulb and smear over thoroly<br />
with a good library paste: after which dip<br />
into a cup of sugar or salt crystals. <strong>The</strong>n<br />
let stand for awhile. Do not use glue for<br />
an adhesive as t^iis has a tendency to dissolve<br />
the salt or sugar.<br />
Contributed by JOHX T. DWYER.<br />
TO USE OLD BATTERY ZINCS.<br />
\\ lien tlie lower half of a battery zinc is<br />
eaten away by the action of the electrolyte,<br />
the remaining portion can be utilized by suspending<br />
it from a wire, so that the zinc is<br />
covered by the battery solution.<br />
.\ very good electrical connection should<br />
be made between the wire and the zinc and<br />
the joint covered with melted paraffin. This<br />
wiring Diagram for 36 Dry Cell Battery and<br />
Various Lamp Circuits on the Sulky and<br />
Harness.<br />
last precaution is necessary as otherwise<br />
corrosion would soon occur from the action<br />
of the salammoniac or other chemical. <strong>The</strong><br />
wire may he held at the top of th* jar by<br />
twisting around a small piece of wood.<br />
Contributed by K. M. COGGESHALL.