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USB DONE RIGHT: Two magic boxes that let computer audio ...

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I have thoroughly enjoyed your two<br />

books: The World of High Fidelity and The<br />

UHF Guide to Ultra High Fidelity. Both<br />

provide an excellent introduction to hi-fi.<br />

You have defined high fidelity as “the<br />

closest possible approach to the original<br />

sound.” This is achieved by equipment<br />

<strong>that</strong> adds the least (transparent?) to<br />

the sound — a very difficult feat indeed.<br />

Say my end goal in <strong>audio</strong> is transparency,<br />

aren’t passive preamplifiers designed to<br />

do just <strong>that</strong>? Yet I do not see them being<br />

used as reference components by professional<br />

reviewers/<strong>audio</strong>philes such as<br />

yourself. Is it fair to say <strong>that</strong> passive preamps<br />

are more silent (transparent) than<br />

active preamps? And shouldn’t reviewers<br />

use passive preamps as benchmark to<br />

review all other (active) preamps? One<br />

of the most “sophisticated” and expensive<br />

passive preamps I’ve come across is<br />

England’s Music First Audio. Do you<br />

plan to review their product?<br />

Hypothetically speaking, given<br />

the time when Messrs.. Rejskind and<br />

Simon are no longer reviewing <strong>audio</strong><br />

components, what would your reference<br />

system consist of? Would you be using<br />

a passive preamp with active speakers?<br />

Balanced cable over RCA?<br />

Larry Byrd<br />

CALGARY, AB<br />

It’s hard to say, Larry, because you<br />

are presuming a time when the magazine<br />

changes management, and indeed<br />

owners. It’s hardly up to us to speculate<br />

on what our eventual successors might<br />

or might not do. Most <strong>audio</strong> magazines<br />

don’t actually have reference systems at<br />

all, as you may know.<br />

That said, theory notwithstanding,<br />

the very best preamps are active, not<br />

passive, though a passive preamplifier<br />

may be a good choice if the budget for<br />

the best (read: expensive) is not available.<br />

Indeed, we have reviewed several passive<br />

8 ULTRA HIGH FIDELITY Magazine<br />

Free Advice<br />

270 rue Victoria<br />

Longueuil, Québec, Canada J4H 2J6<br />

uhfmail@uhfmag.com<br />

preamps over the years, and we have even<br />

had three of them in our Audiophile<br />

Store. We’re speaking from experience,<br />

at least our experience so far.<br />

Balanced cables may or may not be a<br />

good choice, depending on the design of<br />

the balancing circuits in the components<br />

being linked, but we can’t use them in<br />

our reference systems. If we did, how<br />

could we review components <strong>that</strong> don’t<br />

have balanced connections?<br />

I have very much enjoyed your site<br />

and writing for a number of years now.<br />

You provide an important service to<br />

the <strong>audio</strong> community, from the beginner<br />

level to the <strong>audio</strong>phile level, by<br />

your objectivity and straightforward<br />

approach. Your ability to articulate<br />

your listening session experiences is<br />

very much helpful in understanding the<br />

interaction of the components used and<br />

the product you are reviewing.<br />

Most of the <strong>audio</strong>phile articles and<br />

sites I have read talk about passive speakers.<br />

Curiously, why are active speakers<br />

not as often reviewed/discussed in the<br />

<strong>audio</strong>phile community? What have been<br />

your experiences with active speakers?<br />

And have you or your friends/colleague<br />

have had a chance to audition them in<br />

recent period — ATC, Focal, Dyn<strong>audio</strong>,<br />

Meridian, Linn are few high-end<br />

makes <strong>that</strong> comes to my mind. What<br />

are your thoughts in this technology?<br />

And would you recommend them for<br />

home use given <strong>that</strong> they’ve come a long<br />

way from its “studio monitor” ancestors?<br />

What do you see to be the biggest<br />

obstacle of active speakers? Do you<br />

foresee the day when an active speaker<br />

would be your reference speaker?<br />

Andrew Lee<br />

TORONTO, ON<br />

To answer your last question first,<br />

Andrew, no, an active speaker cannot<br />

be our reference, and the reason is possibly<br />

obvious. If we had active speakers<br />

(speakers with built-in amplifiers), we<br />

could not review amplifiers. By the way,<br />

for exactly the same reason we don’t use<br />

balanced connectors on our gear. If we<br />

did, how could we review components<br />

without balanced connections?<br />

That said, there are some very good<br />

active loudspeakers available, and we<br />

had one (a Linn Artikulat) on the cover<br />

of UHF No. 80). We liked it. A lot. We<br />

also liked the Aurum Integra system,<br />

which was on the cover of UHF No. 78.<br />

There are major advantages to<br />

active speakers. The amplifier (usually<br />

amplifiers — plural) can be designed<br />

with particular drivers in mind, and the<br />

troublesome speaker cables can be kept<br />

extremely short. The crossover can be<br />

active too, potentially delivering much<br />

better performance than the common<br />

passive crossover. All good. But there’s<br />

a disadvantage to putting the amplifiers<br />

right inside the enclosure, where they are<br />

directly subjected to massive vibration.<br />

In short, this is not an easy technology<br />

to work with, and not all designers pull<br />

it off successfully.<br />

I recently installed new KT88’s into<br />

my Dynakit Mk III amplifiers. One of<br />

the tubes, which is not defective, produces<br />

a mechanical noise, a hum. What<br />

can I do to reduce this mechanical noise?<br />

Walter C. Labys<br />

MORGANTOWN, WV<br />

Actually, Walter, we think the KT88<br />

is defective. If its elements are not tightly<br />

secured, they can vibrate. The culprit in<br />

your case is probably the cathode, since it<br />

is heated, in most amplifiers, by alternating<br />

current (60 Hz in North America).<br />

The tube can’t be fixed, since you can’t<br />

get at its innards without breaking the<br />

vacuum seal, and so the only solution, if<br />

the hum is loud enough to be objectionable,<br />

is to change it.<br />

My husband George is currently<br />

loading up my Mac mini with his music<br />

(nice of me to <strong>let</strong> him use it, isn’t it?) and<br />

I need some advice. We think we’d like<br />

to try the digital-to-analog converter,<br />

but are curious to know performance<br />

differences (if any?) among:

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